I saw where you said the rings compress by hand and go in easily. I thought you might have left that part out on purpose to keep the secret. That's actually the part I was looking for and wondering about. It would have been nice to see that critical part. That said, Great video, most informative and easiest to follow of all I've seen. I need to do a 362 but it wasn't worth $600 at the shop for a $900 saw. Thx
In my newer video rebuilding the Dolmar 7300, right at the 40 minute mark, I show pinching the ring and sliding the cylinder on. I usually angle it slightly away from the ring gap so I can continue to pinch the ring until the cylinder slides over on its own.
Good video. Nice tip on piston direction. I just tore down my 193t and I rubbed off the Stihl logo when cleaning and it does not have an arrow (I'm trying to re-use my factory cylinder and piston before I give up on them and buy a new kit). I also have a 026 and that is a very nice saw.
Why'd you skip showing how you got those C clips out?? With all the good info in this video, getting those clips out is the one thing I can't figure out. That's the reason I got on this video. I can't believe nobody else commented on this.
I have the same chainsaw ... it has less than 10 hours of use. I have had to replace the piston twice for same issue, scored piston. Stihl is refusing to repair or replace the saw. It will cost me $275 to have a local Stihl dealer replace the piston. Obviously a defective lemon. I will never own another Stihl. Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Any time a Stihl saw rolls over, immediately move it up to half choke and pull it over until it starts. If you pull it over after it rolls over, you will flood the saw.
This is true. Once it almost rolls over, move it up to half choke. Starts next pull. I had my own lawn care and have used a ton of Stihl equipment, had great success with their higher end units and have heard even the lower end works well.
@@NONO-hz4vo not always does it crank with one additional pull, but usually. Most of my saws average out at 3,2P but occasionally I get a 1,1P and have even had a 1,0P in real cold weather. 1,1P tells me the carb is only tuned for the temperature that day but it sure does help my arm and shoulder.
The torque on a small 2t engine like this is going to be a lot lower than the capacity of the bolts. Just snug them up as he did and you will be past the required torque.
That slightly worn OEM cylinder is still 10x better than the Farmertec cylinder. You should've just bought a good quality piston, like a Meteor or Hiway and new rings and kept the OEM cylinder.
@@Lauterbach24 It appeared to be good quality, but with only two tanks of gas through it I can't comment on the longevity. It assembled and fit well and runs as I expect it to.
@@Lauterbach24 I want to follow up and say the farmertec kit didn't work out in the end. It kept pushing around 125psi and it never generated enough power to be useful long term. After disassembly the piston wrist pin was loose. I used the farmertec piston rings on the original piston/cylinder/wrist pin and it's now at 145psi and plenty of power.
Who ranned this? I saw that kind of damage on the piston and I may have an idea of what happened. In most cases, you see that stuff when the user jumps on it while it's cold.
China cylinders and pistons mean huge power loss. Id of used the oem cylinder with a Meteor piston and caber rings. In fact thats what i did with mine!
I could kiss you. The kit I got didnt come with directions and couldnt find a video! Thank you!!
U left off getting the screws out of carb boot and cylinder. Special tools?
Your lucky to catch it in time to clean it up and new ring 😊
I saw where you said the rings compress by hand and go in easily. I thought you might have left that part out on purpose to keep the secret. That's actually the part I was looking for and wondering about. It would have been nice to see that critical part. That said, Great video, most informative and easiest to follow of all I've seen. I need to do a 362 but it wasn't worth $600 at the shop for a $900 saw. Thx
In my newer video rebuilding the Dolmar 7300, right at the 40 minute mark, I show pinching the ring and sliding the cylinder on. I usually angle it slightly away from the ring gap so I can continue to pinch the ring until the cylinder slides over on its own.
Good video. Nice tip on piston direction. I just tore down my 193t and I rubbed off the Stihl logo when cleaning and it does not have an arrow (I'm trying to re-use my factory cylinder and piston before I give up on them and buy a new kit). I also have a 026 and that is a very nice saw.
I have a strimmer and unbolted the cylinder housing but it’s still stuck tight. Any tips ?
Excellent video. Keep up the good work.
Why'd you skip showing how you got those C clips out?? With all the good info in this video, getting those clips out is the one thing I can't figure out. That's the reason I got on this video. I can't believe nobody else commented on this.
I have the same chainsaw ... it has less than 10 hours of use. I have had to replace the piston twice for same issue, scored piston. Stihl is refusing to repair or replace the saw. It will cost me $275 to have a local Stihl dealer replace the piston. Obviously a defective lemon. I will never own another Stihl. Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Just get a poulan 4218 and you’ll be happy 😊
Not the saw. It's your oil and mixture. Use 32:1 and use amsoil. dominator.
T-27 on the cylinder bolts.
I thought that was odd. Should be T-27 on the most Stihl units.
Any time a Stihl saw rolls over, immediately move it up to half choke and pull it over until it starts. If you pull it over after it rolls over, you will flood the saw.
This is true. Once it almost rolls over, move it up to half choke. Starts next pull. I had my own lawn care and have used a ton of Stihl equipment, had great success with their higher end units and have heard even the lower end works well.
@@NONO-hz4vo not always does it crank with one additional pull, but usually. Most of my saws average out at 3,2P but occasionally I get a 1,1P and have even had a 1,0P in real cold weather. 1,1P tells me the carb is only tuned for the temperature that day but it sure does help my arm and shoulder.
@John Clarke In good weather I can pull on full choke and quickly reach down and switch it to half and get her started. Always fun.
Didn’t use a torque wrench on the head bolts ?
I tighten the head bolts to snug-enough ft-lbs.
The torque on a small 2t engine like this is going to be a lot lower than the capacity of the bolts. Just snug them up as he did and you will be past the required torque.
What did you use as a ring squzeer to get piston in jug ? /
They can be squeezed by hand while sliding the jug on.
possibly from not being warmed up cold start and wot
Failure to let it ideal and warm up 😢😢
How did you compress the piston rings to get the piston back into the cylinder?
By hand. Small engine rings compress easy enough by hand and slip in on their own most the time. It's not as intense as a car engine.
@@in-depthdiy2123 oil mix 1:33 is ok ?
That slightly worn OEM cylinder is still 10x better than the Farmertec cylinder. You should've just bought a good quality piston, like a Meteor or Hiway and new rings and kept the OEM cylinder.
What rebuild brand did you go with?
It's shown in the video around 6:35, it's farmertec.
@@in-depthdiy2123 thank you! Are you happy with the build quality of their aftermarket product?
@@Lauterbach24 It appeared to be good quality, but with only two tanks of gas through it I can't comment on the longevity. It assembled and fit well and runs as I expect it to.
@@in-depthdiy2123 thank you for the information.
@@Lauterbach24 I want to follow up and say the farmertec kit didn't work out in the end. It kept pushing around 125psi and it never generated enough power to be useful long term. After disassembly the piston wrist pin was loose. I used the farmertec piston rings on the original piston/cylinder/wrist pin and it's now at 145psi and plenty of power.
Who ranned this? I saw that kind of damage on the piston and I may have an idea of what happened.
In most cases, you see that stuff when the user jumps on it while it's cold.
Yep its cold damage, piston expands faster but cylinder isnt warming up that fast so the piston makes contact with cylinder
China cylinders and pistons mean huge power loss. Id of used the oem cylinder with a Meteor piston and caber rings. In fact thats what i did with mine!
Cylinder bolts are T27.
They are 25 I just took one out
You miss how to compress ring into the vlinder
The heading said Stihl Pro chainsaw. Is a 260 Stihl Pro
Fat fingers. Is the 260 in Stihl Pro line?
@@ronkolb1335 It is a pro saw or if you wanna be accurate, it was.
No longer in production.
I think there t 27s
💯💯💯💯👍👍👍🤝🤝🤝
Toko seher 260
Are the parts from china