Freelander fix for Clicking Noise on turning + IRD oil seal & Bearing change
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- Another minor but slightly annoying ‘clicking noise on turning’ job done on my Freelander. This noise is usually caused by a worn CV joint on the driveshaft, which turned out to be the case. There was also a fair bit of play and a slight oil leak from the right hand IRD bearing so the bearing and oil seal were also changed, as shown in the video.
Not an essential job but nice to have it all working 100%. As said in the video it is hard to recommend changing the IRD bearing as a DIY job as the bearing is shimmed in order to get the correct play. I took the risk and just changed the bearing for a new one as I had no easy way to keep repeatedly removing and reshimming the bearing. I took the risk and changed the bearing for a new one and it all worked out fine for me. So it depends on your risk appetite!
Just changing the driveshaft is easier and was the main cause of the knocking noise I think.
Here is the IRD oil seal from ebay uk: ebay.us/JMtjKz
Here is the LM603011/49 bearing from ebay uk: ebay.us/xer5n7
Or from Amazon uk: amzn.to/3woJVZS
Or amazon USA and others: amzn.to/3Pb4UrM
Here is the freelander driveshaft, lots on
Amazon uk: amzn.to/3FzD7wK
And Amazon USA and others: amzn.to/39VfMtJ
It may also be available in your countries Amazon site, just click on the above link for Amazon USA.
Also look on the above site for other tools like impact drivers, sockets, screwdriver etc.
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Watching this for the 20 millionth time...My IRD is 'grumbling' after a VCU failure (as in it still worked but only just and on tight turns its was dragging badly). Watching the video when you are fitting the bearings I feel for you...I have a 20 tonne press and have used it to rebuild the rear suspension on my TD4..it makes everything so much easier...only cost 118GBP and although it has sat dormant since then was worth every penny..in the meantime it acts as a coat rack and storage area for small items..buy one you won't regret it.
Ok thanks, sounds like a good tip.
Hi there, I moved from Belgium to SA in 2012 and bougt me a 2nd hand Freelander td4 2004 from a doctor in stellenbosch. Car had 109000km on the clock. 5 years later @ 170000km the slave cilinder to open the clutch started leaking, took out gearbox and ird, changed slave cilinder and complete clutch kit as it was all out now...when I assembled everything under the car again I already observed there was a lot of play on both drive shafts into the gearbox and a bit more into the ird, but I just went on mounting everything. Now I have 230000km and when I accelerate fast in 1st gear the play gives a vibration on de drive shafts that you can feel behind the steering wheel and de ird side is leaking slightly. It was very surprising you posted the video now, now I need to take everything out again (after 60000km en 5years of fun with this car). You showed us how to do it without taking out the complete ird, well done! I hope the play I have will be fixed changing the bearings only, like yours. I read the round washers behind the satelite gears are also a weak point, did you change them? I'm glad it worked out good enough for you, its a big job to open up again to ad a shim. Will you please check for me if your gearbox side shaft also have a lot of play? Don't think I kan do it with the gearbox in like you did with the ird, what do you think?
Nice seeing your video's. Did do manifold clean, sumpbreather kit, all filters and oil, glowing plugs(sufferd with 3 of 4)
Took out injectors, de assembled completely for cleaning and brought them to injector specialist to test them on the usual pressures. One of the was giving almost nothing on 300bar (idle pressure and indeed the car had a very bad idle for a long time). The one injector is setted with some tiny smaller chim and past the test after two settings. Engine runs perfect again and lot more powerful. Next week I will start with the drifeshafts. Thanks for posting all your informative video's!
We will chat soon,
Kind regards,
Kris.
Hi, thanks for your comments.I didn’t change anything other than what was shown, so no planet gear washers. I had previously checked the ird bearing play on the other side and it was a lot better, negligible. With no oil leak either so I didn’t look at it any further to see how that would be changed. I wouldn’t be surprised if the ird had to come out for that, let me know what you find for interest. Nice to see you have seen some of my other videos. Good luck with your Freelander.
What a fantastic video, thanks for sharing. I have quite a lot of play there, and you never know when some play becomes too much play. Would you have a part number for the oil seal please. Many thanks
Thanks. Here is the IRD oil seal from ebay uk: ebay.us/JMtjKz
Here is the LM603011/49 bearing from ebay uk: ebay.us/xer5n7
Or from Amazon uk: amzn.to/3woJVZS
Or amazon USA and others: amzn.to/3Pb4UrM
Here is the freelander driveshaft, lots on
Amazon uk: amzn.to/3FzD7wK
And Amazon USA and others: amzn.to/39VfMtJ
That's brilliant, thank you
Hey comeinhandy now! The suspension worked great on the td4 just to let you know!
Great
So if anyone asks. You can indeed put a stock Freelander suspension on a td4. Mine is a sports model, with diffrent suspensions but the stock Freelander one raises it by a few cm.
Thanks for the upload. How much would something like that cost at the garage. I won't be able to do this myself
I thing a garage would probably say change the whole IRD. I would guess at £1000 with labour charge. Or maybe £500 if just changing the driveshaft.
@@comeinhandynow thanks for letting me know.
Is it possible to write to you privately somewhere else so I don't have to write a comment all the time. You seem to know a lot about the Land Rover freelander 1 and there aren't that many here in Sweden who have such a car. I have a Freelander 1, TD4 2002 Automatic. There are some errors on it and errors appear out of nowhere and it would be good if I could write to someone who knows something. And it is so expensive to take it in to the mechanic, so it would be great if I could write you privately if you have time. Thanks for replying so quickly
I have the clicking noise plus a massive unbalance at speed would this problem cause this rear prop has been removed
It could do if there was too much play in the CV joint or bearing. Have a look underneath at the front driveshafts and see how much they move from side to side at the gearbox end and at the hub end.