Couple of things. Landrover recommend removing the whole propshaft so that you can work at it on the bench, which would have made the splitting easier. And, when you split the VCU from the prop, they say to undo the bolt a little, remove the U plate, then use a wedge or a chisel between the bolt and the UJ body to drive the VCU off, just move it as far as you can, then undo the bolt a bit more, and repeat until it splits off, that way you reduce the possible damage to the UJ needles. They also recommend not allowing both ends of the prop to move more than 10 degrees to the VCU, again to minimise the damage to the needles.
Done it this way loads of times. Trying to separate it with the propshaft still attached would be impossible with the car on axle stands. Not sure I ever managed to avoid moving the UJ more than 10 deg tho.
@bodgit and leggit garage Hi. We're the bearings you fitted in the video genuine LR bearings or after market bearings AND is there any real difference between the two. The reason I ask is I believe my bearings may need changing and wondered what were your thoughts between genuine and after market and if it was really worth spending the xtra money on LR bearings Would value your insight. Thank you.
Can I stick my oar in here and say good job but there is a great trick that saves any hammering on the delicate bits - wind the centre bolt out and remove the locking tab as shown (from 4mins30secs in video) then - refit and adjust the bolt so you can lever between it's head and the inside of the UJ with a big screwdriver, crowbar or better still a cold chisel. Adjusting the bolt allows lever to get a nice fit and purchase (See vid from 21mins, this is close to the trick I'm trying to describe) - this will pull the two halves apart nicely - the bolt can be wound out more as you repeat the levering a few times until seperation or very close to. If it's badly seized, then driving a chisel or well fitting metal wedge into the same place will get it off without damaging anything, just take care if the bolt is only on it's last few threads if it's putting up a fight until the end - putting a thick washer or similar packer on top of bolt head would help here if it's really bad plus some penetrating oil and retightening a bit with the washer on can help free them up too :-)
Thanks again - just done this on mine with your video as guidance (FYI the splines only line up one way, so no need to mark them) Same problem as you too - back one out nice and easy, front took some 'persuasion' :)
I meant it sounds like it's been fitted. Incorrectly, either not straight or back-to-front. If it wasn't doing it before and it's doing it now. Unfortunately, means it's not fitted correctly. I would go back and check everything and go from there
AMAZING!!! You’re the best bro! Thanks for your great videos. Can you advise me what I should do if I get the message 4F or F4 when I put the gear in D (drive)? It Land Rover Freelander TD4 2005 with automatic gearbox.
Another great vid....not sure if my daughters need doing but we'll see next week, rain or shibe when I 'get my hands dirty'..... And my daughter will be getting her's dirty too....
Never knew coppergrease would do that on splines, not that I have ever done that. I used coppergrease on my brake pins and had to clean them off and redo with silicone grease after two years.
nice vid..helped a lot...when I did mine I noticed the u shaped washer can only go in one place....the noggin on the back fits into a wider spline on the prop...splines are all the same on vcu....one of mine had been fitted wrong and I refitted wrong due to my markings...worth chucking if these bearings were done before you bought vehicle....took me a week to figure out the slight vibrations I was getting..ooooh..and if ever anyone changes uj's... get GNK...the cheaper ones are crap...cheers
Spot on Roger, just been 'fiddling' with my prop shaft and VCU after replacing the prop bearing, replaced a UJ too as I 'fecked' one of them during disassembly..that 'Noggin' is worthy of note...'anyhoo' need to refit it before the really crap weather arrives but have to decide whether to replace the fuel tank cradle at the same time and whilst there, the rear diff bushings too...'Start one job, do five...'
Hi Leon, can you help me please. I have a freelander td4 52plate. I've replaced rear wheel brake cylinder put everything back as it was. Took it for a test drive only to find wheel arch covered in break oil and left side of cylinder the piston was sticking right out and dripping. I've tried a dozen times to stop it but no luck. So please can you help me. Ps got my hands absolutely fucking filthy not sorted. Lol
So my 60 freelander has started humming today when I set off, am I right in thinking that this would be the same issue as what you're focusing on here?
Hello bodgit to my land rover td4 why turning right or left with propshaft bearing turns more embarrassing while with out propshaft bearing veri big difference respect for work waiting for answer
Hi mate I'm not sure what you are trying to say so I cannot really help you are you trying to say it makes a noise when you are turning left to right like a clicking noise?
Had real problems with this job on my LDV camper...The original set lasted 100K miles the next ones lasted 20K...what i found after a heads up from a supplier is that they dont put proper grease in the so called sealed bearings...the grease is sprey grease ..thin and watery...I remove the shield and pack the bearing properly...they last 60+K now...so remember dont take it for granted that sealed bearings are propely greased.
Good tip mate also like everything you get what you pay for just because the parties cheap there's normally cheap for a reason I'm not saying you went on a cheap part I'm just saying in general
Great video mate we've just bought an 03 plate freelander and 3 days in my wife tells me it's making a bang noise from the rear when turning... I've been out and it reminds me of the kind of rumble a transfer box makes when it jumps out. Could these bearings be the reason aswell?
Just like the last comment your my edd China of the freelander. Great vids and very good details to help us kerb side fixers. Do you have any vids on the freelander rear diff drive shaft oil seals. Thanks.
11:13 You are right copper grease on threads and splines is a really silly idea... some people also incorrectly use copper grease on wheel bolt threads!
I be doing this job but with a new VCU, I understand that marking the prop is important but how would you mark the splines on a new VCU or is that only important if fitting to the old one
hi mate on some of them they have a thicker tooth and can only be fitted one way it it doesn't really matter which way you line up the vcu unit but what does matter for balancing is to make sure you line up the two yolks inside the prop shaft so you don't get vibration hope this helps thanks for watching don't forget get your hands do
Thanks for the reply, I started doing the job a couple of days ago, removing the rear prop the vcu just slid off literally. However the front prop I on the verge of giving up, soaked in oil, heat gun and battered it with a copper hammer for about 4-5 hours it hasn't even budged :( - the bolt has come out to alter using a chisel on it and has ruined the thread in the vci, which is ok as i am changing that part to, just want to get my front prop off the thing
+L61kvo hi mate I feel your pain it took me a long time to get this off to you just have to stick with it eventually will come off sometimes it's easier to take the whole thing down like I did and do it on the bench this can make a big difference just one of them horrible awkward jobs unfortunately
+bodgit and leggit garage - yep it been off since day one and even took a sledge hammer to the VCU while suspending on brick and still didn't even budge a mm :(, taking to a garage to see if they can get an air chisel on it, Failing that i will buy a prop lol
+L61kvo the joys of Motoring it's never a simple as everybody thinks so frustrating should be two second job turns into a nightmare happens to me everyday lol
are these carrier bearings not covered under the MOT test? had a bit of a thump from underneath on quick clutch releases... suspected these bearings. had mine up the ramps the other day to change the oil and had a look at my bearing... just enough play to make a thump I reckon. So should a tester have picked up on it? I rather think so.
I was thinking of taking my whole drive shaft off to save petrol when I remove from the front to the back is it fed with oil from the front and if yes how do I stop this cheers neil
dont really see the point in having a 4x4 if your going to turn it into a 2 wheel drive you might aswell sell it and get a little car if you want to save fuel i have seen a few people take the props off but 9/10 its to hide the fact the dif bearings are going , but great video this is like my come to youtube guy when my freelander goes wrong haha
Hi my toyota rav4 keeps doing this thing were if you go on a 30 minute trip it you turn it off but then it won't turn on for about 20minutes and sometimes very rarely but it also looses power as well it's a 2005 toyota rav4 diesel
Hi mate it can be a number 1 things it could be as simple as a temperature sensor I could be something else is going to have to be diagnosing tested properly
the reason why I didn't do it is because it won't work even an extra long socket isn't long enough look at the video again and you will see why it will not work
great informative vid...thanks...this needs doing on mine as well as the diff brackets...i hope to save a few quid by getting involved in a greasy way!
+bodgit and leggit garage hahahahahaha the chisel method that Land Rover recommends was chewing the bolt too much for my liking (one side really didn't want to come off, really didn't) so I used an air hammer.
I'm confused about the idea that you need to make sure the splines go back in the same place they came out?? If the idea of the viscous unit is that the fount and rear wheels can turn at different rates then surly the front and rear propshafts are always changing positions in relationship to each other?
The Antidote hi mate it's all about balance if your prop shaft is out of balance it will rip itself apart I know it was perfectly balanced the way it came out so just wanted to be 100% sure it was balance going back in just in case we have any harmonic vibration problems
This seems to be the standard advice . I ask because I need to put a new viscous unit in mine and obviously it's one thing to put marks if your putting the same viscous back but if your putting in a new one not so easy.
I'm speechless with your incompetence!
I'm baffled why You would say that. I followed this and it worked out splendid! (?)
Couple of things.
Landrover recommend removing the whole propshaft so that you can work at it on the bench, which would have made the splitting easier.
And, when you split the VCU from the prop, they say to undo the bolt a little, remove the U plate, then use a wedge or a chisel between the bolt and the UJ body to drive the VCU off, just move it as far as you can, then undo the bolt a bit more, and repeat until it splits off, that way you reduce the possible damage to the UJ needles.
They also recommend not allowing both ends of the prop to move more than 10 degrees to the VCU, again to minimise the damage to the needles.
thanks mate will try this on the next 1
Done it this way loads of times. Trying to separate it with the propshaft still attached would be impossible with the car on axle stands. Not sure I ever managed to avoid moving the UJ more than 10 deg tho.
@bodgit and leggit garage Hi. We're the bearings you fitted in the video genuine LR bearings or after market bearings AND is there any real difference between the two. The reason I ask is I believe my bearings may need changing and wondered what were your thoughts between genuine and after market and if it was really worth spending the xtra money on LR bearings Would value your insight. Thank you.
Can I stick my oar in here and say good job but there is a great trick that saves any hammering on the delicate bits - wind the centre bolt out and remove the locking tab as shown (from 4mins30secs in video) then - refit and adjust the bolt so you can lever between it's head and the inside of the UJ with a big screwdriver, crowbar or better still a cold chisel. Adjusting the bolt allows lever to get a nice fit and purchase (See vid from 21mins, this is close to the trick I'm trying to describe) - this will pull the two halves apart nicely - the bolt can be wound out more as you repeat the levering a few times until seperation or very close to. If it's badly seized, then driving a chisel or well fitting metal wedge into the same place will get it off without damaging anything, just take care if the bolt is only on it's last few threads if it's putting up a fight until the end - putting a thick washer or similar packer on top of bolt head would help here if it's really bad plus some penetrating oil and retightening a bit with the washer on can help free them up too :-)
Thanks again - just done this on mine with your video as guidance (FYI the splines only line up one way, so no need to mark them) Same problem as you too - back one out nice and easy, front took some 'persuasion' :)
Hello.
Many thanks. Your video is perfect and precise!!! I’ll try to follow your instructions on my Freelander. Cheers from Paris !🎄
Who needs Ed China when your on the scene 👍🏾
Great video, Just had to do a Disco 3 bearing, took abit to get it off the transfer box
thanks mate
Hola amigo eh montado rodamientos centrales de arbol de transmision y me vibra me puedes decir como solucionarlo gracia
I meant it sounds like it's been fitted. Incorrectly, either not straight or back-to-front. If it wasn't doing it before and it's doing it now. Unfortunately, means it's not fitted correctly. I would go back and check everything and go from there
Muchas gracias amigo haber si puedo traducirlo
AMAZING!!! You’re the best bro! Thanks for your great videos.
Can you advise me what I should do if I get the message 4F or F4 when I put the gear in D (drive)? It Land Rover Freelander TD4 2005 with automatic gearbox.
Another great vid....not sure if my daughters need doing but we'll see next week, rain or shibe when I 'get my hands dirty'..... And my daughter will be getting her's dirty too....
good to here you getting your hands dirty have fun both of you
Never knew coppergrease would do that on splines, not that I have ever done that. I used coppergrease on my brake pins and had to clean them off and redo with silicone grease after two years.
nice vid..helped a lot...when I did mine I noticed the u shaped washer can only go in one place....the noggin on the back fits into a wider spline on the prop...splines are all the same on vcu....one of mine had been fitted wrong and I refitted wrong due to my markings...worth chucking if these bearings were done before you bought vehicle....took me a week to figure out the slight vibrations I was getting..ooooh..and if ever anyone changes uj's... get GNK...the cheaper ones are crap...cheers
"checking"
good advice mate
Spot on Roger, just been 'fiddling' with my prop shaft and VCU after replacing the prop bearing, replaced a UJ too as I 'fecked' one of them during disassembly..that 'Noggin' is worthy of note...'anyhoo' need to refit it before the really crap weather arrives but have to decide whether to replace the fuel tank cradle at the same time and whilst there, the rear diff bushings too...'Start one job, do five...'
Good job i recently got a td4 but no prop on it so ill need to get one and put new bearings on it
Hi Leon, can you help me please. I have a freelander td4 52plate. I've replaced rear wheel brake cylinder put everything back as it was. Took it for a test drive only to find wheel arch covered in break oil and left side of cylinder the piston was sticking right out and dripping. I've tried a dozen times to stop it but no luck. So please can you help me. Ps got my hands absolutely fucking filthy not sorted. Lol
So my 60 freelander has started humming today when I set off, am I right in thinking that this would be the same issue as what you're focusing on here?
Cheers mate! Sorting mine tomorrow 👍🏼
mine needs doing, to me it is whining, would it be the bearings in the propshaft or could it be the gearbox as well?
Hi what are the symptoms of bearing wear on this car please? Mine shudders through seat above 50 mph
Freelander traduzione in italiano grazie.
Hello bodgit to my land rover td4 why turning right or left with propshaft bearing turns more embarrassing while with out propshaft bearing veri big difference respect for work waiting for answer
Hi mate I'm not sure what you are trying to say so I cannot really help you are you trying to say it makes a noise when you are turning left to right like a clicking noise?
Had real problems with this job on my LDV camper...The original set lasted 100K miles the next ones lasted 20K...what i found after a heads up from a supplier is that they dont put proper grease in the so called sealed bearings...the grease is sprey grease ..thin and watery...I remove the shield and pack the bearing properly...they last 60+K now...so remember dont take it for granted that sealed bearings are propely greased.
Good tip mate also like everything you get what you pay for just because the parties cheap there's normally cheap for a reason I'm not saying you went on a cheap part I'm just saying in general
Great video mate we've just bought an 03 plate freelander and 3 days in my wife tells me it's making a bang noise from the rear when turning... I've been out and it reminds me of the kind of rumble a transfer box makes when it jumps out. Could these bearings be the reason aswell?
keith gilham yes mate it's a possibility also check the drive shafts at the transfer box problems there to just replace the whole shaft if needed
I would just like to thank you 4 your videos they r helpfull and let's face it u need it when you have a freelander 😂
If you don't mind me asking , where is your garage based ?
could you show how to clean egr and inlet manifold??
Just like the last comment your my edd China of the freelander. Great vids and very good details to help us kerb side fixers. Do you have any vids on the freelander rear diff drive shaft oil seals. Thanks.
lol thanks mate and no sorry not yet boom
@@bodgitandleggitgarage OK no worries thanks anyway. Will be watching your other vids to keep my mind sharp on the tools. 👍
@@stevieboy7873 lol thanks mate
11:13 You are right copper grease on threads and splines is a really silly idea... some people also incorrectly use copper grease on wheel bolt threads!
boom sorted
I be doing this job but with a new VCU, I understand that marking the prop is important but how would you mark the splines on a new VCU or is that only important if fitting to the old one
hi mate on some of them they have a thicker tooth and can only be fitted one way it it doesn't really matter which way you line up the vcu unit but what does matter for balancing is to make sure you line up the two yolks inside the prop shaft so you don't get vibration hope this helps thanks for watching don't forget get your hands do
Thanks for the reply, I started doing the job a couple of days ago, removing the rear prop the vcu just slid off literally. However the front prop I on the verge of giving up, soaked in oil, heat gun and battered it with a copper hammer for about 4-5 hours it hasn't even budged :( - the bolt has come out to alter using a chisel on it and has ruined the thread in the vci, which is ok as i am changing that part to, just want to get my front prop off the thing
+L61kvo hi mate I feel your pain it took me a long time to get this off to you just have to stick with it eventually will come off sometimes it's easier to take the whole thing down like I did and do it on the bench this can make a big difference just one of them horrible awkward jobs unfortunately
+bodgit and leggit garage - yep it been off since day one and even took a sledge hammer to the VCU while suspending on brick and still didn't even budge a mm :(, taking to a garage to see if they can get an air chisel on it, Failing that i will buy a prop lol
+L61kvo the joys of Motoring it's never a simple as everybody thinks so frustrating should be two second job turns into a nightmare happens to me everyday lol
Great video 📼
Glad you enjoyed
Great video as ever, cheers.
thanks mate thanks a lot for watching and don't forget get your hands dirty
What size were the bolts on the rear diff?
I bay the car doesn’t have the shaft on i bay the kit but I bont have the marks how to find the marks for putting back
How much do you charge to do that lot and can you do mine?
Hi I have a freelander2 2.2 td4e 2009 can I replace both bearings on my drive shaft or do I have to buy a new shaft cheers mate
thanks mate
bodgit and leggit garage dose that mean yes lol 😂 were can I get the bearings from ? Thanks mucker
are these carrier bearings not covered under the MOT test? had a bit of a thump from underneath on quick clutch releases... suspected these bearings. had mine up the ramps the other day to change the oil and had a look at my bearing... just enough play to make a thump I reckon. So should a tester have picked up on it? I rather think so.
Usually dif mount check them first
Mine failed on these bearings!
Nicely done son.
Thank mate
Does a 2006 Range Rover sport supercharged 4.2 liter have a fairly ok fix like this?? Please help!!!
Impossible to say it all depends on the problem and I would need to see it before I could tell you what the problem is
Thanks a lot for the good video mate. Cheers.👍
I was thinking of taking my whole drive shaft off to save petrol when I remove from the front to the back is it fed with oil from the front and if yes how do I stop this cheers neil
Will not save petrol ...that's bullshit.
dont really see the point in having a 4x4 if your going to turn it into a 2 wheel drive you might aswell sell it and get a little car if you want to save fuel i have seen a few people take the props off but 9/10 its to hide the fact the dif bearings are going , but great video this is like my come to youtube guy when my freelander goes wrong haha
Hi my toyota rav4 keeps doing this thing were if you go on a 30 minute trip it you turn it off but then it won't turn on for about 20minutes and sometimes very rarely but it also looses power as well it's a 2005 toyota rav4 diesel
Hi mate it can be a number 1 things it could be as simple as a temperature sensor I could be something else is going to have to be diagnosing tested properly
What does the vce unit actually do and how does it work ??
allows the wheels to slip as you are turning
I think that you don't need the marks on Freelander
Can you tell me why does my downhill/traction lights come on even though I only press down on break pedal very lightly. Freelander td4 02 plate.
Brake switch on gearbox
Bună ziua!
Mulțumesc frumos!
14:09 You could have also used the socket to put the washer (12:55) on...
the reason why I didn't do it is because it won't work even an extra long socket isn't long enough look at the video again and you will see why it will not work
grate video mate
Hello. One question. Can I jump the VCU? Doing a direct shat? Many tanks.
Hi mate unfortunately as far as I know you cannot because you were just destroy your rear diff and your front transfer box
Nice work. Are you planning a toolbox tour at some point? :)
Yes I am mate
great informative vid...thanks...this needs doing on mine as well as the diff brackets...i hope to save a few quid by getting involved in a greasy way!
Sorted
Sorted
Good job
Thanks mate
Great thanks. Super video👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Getting popcorn so I can see how much swearing there is when you split the propshaft from the VCU (I know I added quite a bit to the swear jar!)
all I can say is thank fuck for editing lol
+bodgit and leggit garage hahahahahaha the chisel method that Land Rover recommends was chewing the bolt too much for my liking (one side really didn't want to come off, really didn't) so I used an air hammer.
Adrian Kingsley-Hughes the cold chisel is just meant to drive a wedge against the vcu spline bolt and push the propshaft off.
I'm confused about the idea that you need to make sure the splines go back in the same place they came out?? If the idea of the viscous unit is that the fount and rear wheels can turn at different rates then surly the front and rear propshafts are always changing positions in relationship to each other?
The Antidote hi mate it's all about balance if your prop shaft is out of balance it will rip itself apart I know it was perfectly balanced the way it came out so just wanted to be 100% sure it was balance going back in just in case we have any harmonic vibration problems
This seems to be the standard advice . I ask because I need to put a new viscous unit in mine and obviously it's one thing to put marks if your putting the same viscous back but if your putting in a new one not so easy.
sitting at a servo clutch to the floor fuckn dearlander
Hi. Are you still alive?
@@Astreinty no
Нужна раздаточная коробка не где у не купишь вышли я тебе деньги перечислю
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