painting small areas of metal like tools,with metallic paint can give you a flat uniform reflection.Wheras two different levels of soft B graphite pencils,say 3B & 7B layered over matt black gives you a more realistic light reflection.As you stack the layers of graphite you build a patina with many points of reflection from angle of light and which grade of graphite it hits.I did complete engine,gearbox in academy Tiger 1 with int. with this method,wouldve been hard to reproduce with just metallic paint.You dont need to add a wash,just add 'oil' pigments etc.For 1\35 scale crowbars, c clamps as well.I used to love metal paint,but this looks better to me.Black 'metallic' powders that buff up silver are graphite,same as in pencils.Which are much cheaper.sorry if you all know already....bodo kit coming,so will be 1st stug.Your vids are going to be my ' go to' for the build.cheers.
LMAO you can't make this stuff up, I'm building a Rye Field Model's Tiger 1 right now and I was searching on RUclips for something to have in the background, a podcast or something like that, and you just upload this, thanks a lot! It's gonna come in handy hahaha.
I enjoyed the "sloppy" comment. No way I can hand brush like you just did. My hands just are not that steady anymore. Between Andy's Hobby Headquarters and your video, my tools are coming out great. Andy has nailed getting a wood effect, if you have not seen his work I recommend it. As always, I enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work.
Pretty good, especially considering you did the work with the tools on the tank. I usually put the tools on, typically after all the chipping and weathering. The wood box is amazing. Very well done. I think the hull red was a wise choice, German black brown is not really a good color to represent rust and/or dirt. I usually mix brown & crimson red and for other rust tones I might use (in place of crimson red or even with it. Just depends on the tone or rather "age" of the rust) different oranges or yellows. Often if I use some of the brighter yellows, I put a touch of black (that would be a suitable time for German black brown) or rubber, just enough to knock the "wow, that's really yellow" out of it. I did however used to use Testors "rust", but when it finally dried out, I didn't bother trying to save it because I found myself mixing most often anyway. So, I haven't bought a "rust" bottle for quite a few years now. Like I said pretty good job. Thanks for sharing your tips. 👍👍
When painting them separately I find it hard to make the tool clamps and mounts -- that are molded onto the tool -- to match the paint work of the rest of the camouflage on the hull.
quality video panzermeister, is it a dragon stug ? if so which one do you know ? and what paints, acrylics did you use to get the german yellow and green on this kit ? thanks ! !
Hey Tommy :) it is a Dragon StuG III Ausf.G and the kit is I believe the May 1943 Alkett production one, but I've heavily modified the kit to make it a November 1943 Miag-buikt vehicle so I've changed the drive sprockets, tool locations, gun, and engine deck... and I also added the zimmerit. So it's not much of the same kit in the end. I can let you know what paints I used later today when I get home.
I filmed myself painting the camo so I'll try to make a video of that soon. The yellow is 50% XF-60, 25% XF-2, and 25% XF-4. The green is 50/50 XF-65 and XF-71.
So this is more about painting and weathering tools as an afterthought. Seems to make a whole lot more sense to do this before gluing the tools and cables on the model.
Great vid as always, however I'm always dubious trying to show wood grain at this scale. You'd be hard pushed to see wood grain on an ash pickaxe handle 10 feet away, let alone at this scale.....but each to their own.
haha! By your video title I thought you were going to talk about the tools you use to paint and weather models! After watching a few seconds it was clear you meant painting and weathering the tank TOOLS. :) Ok im on the same page now... please continue
I'm just getting in to WW2 models and want to buy the right kind of paint.. do you suggest acrylic over enamel? If so, why? Can a model look as good with either?
I'd recommend acrylics for the base painting and then enamels or oils for weathering. Acrylics are more durable so they're good for making strong layers for the base and camouflage paints. Enamels and oils are good for weathering as they're not as durable and can be reactivated easily, which makes cleaning up excess wash or other effects easy.
Thanks. I just used X-20A, but I can do keep mixing new batches since that stuff will dry in 10 mins, so I usually only mix up a little at a time and do maybe two tools, then rethin some more paints and repeat.
Panzermeister36 cheers mate love your vids I'm making the tamiya sd.kfz.251/1 German halftack st the moment will use your vids when it comes to the painting
Based on my research, Panzer fire extinguishers varied in color, from the Tetra factory. Green, Tan and Grey seem to be the norm. Period photos usually show them with the factory labels, so they weren't often oversprayed with the cammo color. The photos I've seen , don't show a wooden handle on Panzer jacks. Just sayin...
+rrl4245 everything here is based off of photos. The panzer jack handles on the folding medium (15t?) Jack were sometimes wooden. Fire extinguishers were prepared in the appropriate colours. They were dark green or red when mounted inside vehicles and dunkelgelb or grey or tropen when mounted outside. Tetra painted them this way and applied the operating label over top. I'd done a ton of research before this video because I always try to be accurate.
Adam Mann is another youtube modeller and a good friend and he has tons of original WWII tools and tracks and tank parts, so I learn mostly from him. He also has a great facebook page: facebook.com/groups/1771603316215157/
+Mark Cherriman no, because then I'd have to paint the tool clamps on the tools with the base colour of the tank. That's my opinion, but you can do it differently.
Calling the wirecutters handles compressed paper is more incorrect than calling them resin. Paper in itself would be useless. The handles are phenolic resin. Paper more likely ersatz canvas was saturated with resin. Compression forcing the resin into the weave. Much like modern handgun grips. Impervious to weather, grease and oils.
It's not incorrect. Compressed paper impregnated with Bakelite. They are paper. Look at Adam Mann's Panzer Tool video. I have handled some of his OVM personally myself.
I hear you. But sadly dragon doesn't have any MIAG pattern zimmerit kits, only Alkett pattern, and I can't do this by hand. Still it came out pretty good after I gave it the winter camo and everything. Next I'd like to try it by hand...
I think the dragon 6494 jagdpanther has that type of zimmerit, the resin doesn't look terrible but you can see the places that it isn't as good like the ventilator on the back and the engine deck which was often zimmerited. Anyhow the finish product looks good 👍🏾
painting small areas of metal like tools,with metallic paint can give you a flat uniform reflection.Wheras two different levels of soft B graphite pencils,say 3B & 7B layered over matt black gives you a more realistic light reflection.As you stack the layers of graphite you build a patina with many points of reflection from angle of light and which grade of graphite it hits.I did complete engine,gearbox in academy Tiger 1 with int. with this method,wouldve been hard to reproduce with just metallic paint.You dont need to add a wash,just add 'oil' pigments etc.For 1\35 scale crowbars, c clamps as well.I used to love metal paint,but this looks better to me.Black 'metallic' powders that buff up silver are graphite,same as in pencils.Which are much cheaper.sorry if you all know already....bodo kit coming,so will be 1st stug.Your vids are going to be my ' go to' for the build.cheers.
LMAO you can't make this stuff up, I'm building a Rye Field Model's Tiger 1 right now and I was searching on RUclips for something to have in the background, a podcast or something like that, and you just upload this, thanks a lot! It's gonna come in handy hahaha.
Perfect timing :) Glad you'll find it useful
nice and comprehensive tutorial sir, very well done :)
Thank you Michael!
I like using the Wilder's bright steel pigment for wear and tear on tools
I enjoyed the "sloppy" comment. No way I can hand brush like you just did. My hands just are not that steady anymore.
Between Andy's Hobby Headquarters and your video, my tools are coming out great.
Andy has nailed getting a wood effect, if you have not seen his work I recommend it.
As always, I enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work.
Thank you very much sir! I will have a look at his video :)
Awesome channel, I can only hope for a loooong life!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you Manuel :D
My go to formula for wood handles is Tamiya red brown, then flood it with a black pin wash.
Very detailed tutorial Ev! Great stuff
Thank you Shane!
Pretty good, especially considering you did the work with the tools on the tank. I usually put the tools on, typically after all the chipping and weathering. The wood box is amazing. Very well done. I think the hull red was a wise choice, German black brown is not really a good color to represent rust and/or dirt. I usually mix brown & crimson red and for other rust tones I might use (in place of crimson red or even with it. Just depends on the tone or rather "age" of the rust) different oranges or yellows. Often if I use some of the brighter yellows, I put a touch of black (that would be a suitable time for German black brown) or rubber, just enough to knock the "wow, that's really yellow" out of it. I did however used to use Testors "rust", but when it finally dried out, I didn't bother trying to save it because I found myself mixing most often anyway. So, I haven't bought a "rust" bottle for quite a few years now.
Like I said pretty good job. Thanks for sharing your tips. 👍👍
+Gryphon Arms USA thank you very much!
Nice video, great to watch and very nice tutorial! Cheers Mate!
Thank you Alex! Hope you are well :)
Great video. What make of brush is that?
Should be a Royal & Langnickel Zen73 "10/0 Spotter"
Do you paint the add on tools and stoage before or after main body painting?
Enjoyed the vid very much. Always a dilemma for me whether to paint tools in situ on the vehicle or sesperately. You made it look easy Evan
Thank you Mark! :)
Nice work man looks great.
Beginner’s question: why paint the tools on the tank rather than separately before gluing them on the hull? Thanks for all the videos
When painting them separately I find it hard to make the tool clamps and mounts -- that are molded onto the tool -- to match the paint work of the rest of the camouflage on the hull.
@@Panzermeister36 veeeery good point. Thanks
Very useful tutorial as per usual, thank you
Thank you! I have to catch up on your videos...
@@Panzermeister36 thank you, i’m about to finish another video
quality video panzermeister, is it a dragon stug ? if so which one do you know ? and what paints, acrylics did you use to get the german yellow and green on this kit ? thanks ! !
Hey Tommy :) it is a Dragon StuG III Ausf.G and the kit is I believe the May 1943 Alkett production one, but I've heavily modified the kit to make it a November 1943 Miag-buikt vehicle so I've changed the drive sprockets, tool locations, gun, and engine deck... and I also added the zimmerit. So it's not much of the same kit in the end. I can let you know what paints I used later today when I get home.
thanks, love the content !!
I filmed myself painting the camo so I'll try to make a video of that soon. The yellow is 50% XF-60, 25% XF-2, and 25% XF-4. The green is 50/50 XF-65 and XF-71.
Nice video
It was very helpful for the tools on my panther 👍
Glad to hear that :) Thank you
Fabuloso video amigo, me podrías decir qué tipo de pincel utilizas, por favor...gracias..
Zen 73 Series by "Royal & Langnickel"
Sizes 1, 10/0, 20/0
I wonder what brushes you use with such long pointed
They're just standard artist's brushes I buy for a few dollars. There are long bristled options.
So this is more about painting and weathering tools as an afterthought. Seems to make a whole lot more sense to do this before gluing the tools and cables on the model.
Some people do it like that, but I prefer to have as much as I can glued onto the model before I paint it. That's just my style I guess...
Looks more like self inflicted pain to me but you are right, it is all about personal style and taste...;)
Great vid as always, however I'm always dubious trying to show wood grain at this scale. You'd be hard pushed to see wood grain on an ash pickaxe handle 10 feet away, let alone at this scale.....but each to their own.
Very good video. Have you ever used the Tamiya Paint Retarder? It might make brush painting Tamiya paints easier.
Thank you. That is a really good idea, I should try that...
haha! By your video title I thought you were going to talk about the tools you use to paint and weather models! After watching a few seconds it was clear you meant painting and weathering the tank TOOLS. :) Ok im on the same page now... please continue
Do u add thinner to the paint? If so how much is the ratio you recommand?
Thank you for the info!! Very good work.
Well done video! Very informative indeed.
I'm just getting in to WW2 models and want to buy the right kind of paint.. do you suggest acrylic over enamel? If so, why? Can a model look as good with either?
I'd recommend acrylics for the base painting and then enamels or oils for weathering. Acrylics are more durable so they're good for making strong layers for the base and camouflage paints. Enamels and oils are good for weathering as they're not as durable and can be reactivated easily, which makes cleaning up excess wash or other effects easy.
Panzermeister36 Awesome, thank you so much! Excellent job on the model btw! I'll sub
Why do you change from Tamiya paint to Panzer Aces when Tamiya has the same colour?
Because Tamiya paints are a pain in the butt to brush paint with since they dry very quickly. Panzer Aces is much nicer to deal with :)
I always struggle with using tamiya paints brush painting. What do you use to thin it? Nice video man. Can never get a realistic wood effect so cheers
Thanks. I just used X-20A, but I can do keep mixing new batches since that stuff will dry in 10 mins, so I usually only mix up a little at a time and do maybe two tools, then rethin some more paints and repeat.
Panzermeister36 cheers mate love your vids I'm making the tamiya sd.kfz.251/1 German halftack st the moment will use your vids when it comes to the painting
can you paint the airfix mtn troops?
Based on my research, Panzer fire extinguishers varied in color, from the Tetra factory. Green, Tan and Grey seem to be the norm. Period photos usually show them with the factory labels, so they weren't often oversprayed with the cammo color. The photos I've seen , don't show a wooden handle on Panzer jacks. Just sayin...
+rrl4245 everything here is based off of photos. The panzer jack handles on the folding medium (15t?) Jack were sometimes wooden. Fire extinguishers were prepared in the appropriate colours. They were dark green or red when mounted inside vehicles and dunkelgelb or grey or tropen when mounted outside. Tetra painted them this way and applied the operating label over top. I'd done a ton of research before this video because I always try to be accurate.
where did u find the info on the tools, things like compressed paper and bakelite?
Adam Mann is another youtube modeller and a good friend and he has tons of original WWII tools and tracks and tank parts, so I learn mostly from him. He also has a great facebook page: facebook.com/groups/1771603316215157/
thanks, im also having ALOT of trouble getting wilder thinner for my wilder oil paints, any ideas as to what else i could use?
Just use lighter fluid, it's basically the same thing
hmm, as a last resort, definitely, any thinner brands or types though?
Wilder thinner is just lighter fluid though ;) and plenty of guys use lighter fluid to thin down their artist's oils for pinwashes and stuff
Looks good and thanks
Another useful tutorial, thanks mate.
Thanks Al! :)
Fucking sweet video. Seem like something I would do.
Well you've got all the real tools so you really should go ahead and do one :)
Thank You agien! Good job
Thank you :)
Wouldn't it be easier to paint the tools off the tank ?
+Mark Cherriman no, because then I'd have to paint the tool clamps on the tools with the base colour of the tank. That's my opinion, but you can do it differently.
@@Panzermeister36 point taken . Crack on I want to see how you do the winter camo as I've not done that before 😀
Nice!!!
Thanks!
Lol guess I need to watch first
Calling the wirecutters handles compressed paper is more incorrect than calling them resin. Paper in itself would be useless. The handles are phenolic resin. Paper more likely ersatz canvas was saturated with resin. Compression forcing the resin into the weave. Much like modern handgun grips. Impervious to weather, grease and oils.
It's not incorrect. Compressed paper impregnated with Bakelite. They are paper. Look at Adam Mann's Panzer Tool video. I have handled some of his OVM personally myself.
The stick on resin zimmerit doesn't look as good as self done zimm or the dragon built in (not a criticism of your model just the realism/final look)
I hear you. But sadly dragon doesn't have any MIAG pattern zimmerit kits, only Alkett pattern, and I can't do this by hand. Still it came out pretty good after I gave it the winter camo and everything. Next I'd like to try it by hand...
I think the dragon 6494 jagdpanther has that type of zimmerit, the resin doesn't look terrible but you can see the places that it isn't as good like the ventilator on the back and the engine deck which was often zimmerited. Anyhow the finish product looks good 👍🏾
Miag didn't apply zimmerit to the engine deck on StuGs, only Alkett did and they applied a different pattern.