Great series.... Watching a pro make quick work of something like that with a belt sander looks so easy. They dont understand the thousands of hours you have spent learning how to work with the materials and tools. That sander would gouge out a dish in the face frame in an instant. You could wreck the project in a second by tilting the sander or rolling off the edge and its SO easy to do. Great work keep it up!
I like your videos. I have been woodworking since High School. So about 25 years now. I am hoping for this to be my permanent career at some point soon. After all this time I still learn stuff from the different woodworkers on youtube. I see you use the belt sander to make face frames flush. I always build mine a bit wider and then get them flush as well. However I use a small router and a spiral trim bit. It takes some practice to get used to doing, however it does a good job and I have not had any issues. I need to purchase a belt sander, however I have not yet. I have shop full of tools though. For your wood filler do you simply just mix sawdust and glue together? Thanks for showing us what you do.
Effortless and a pleasure to watch, love Sundays! Do you notice any issues arising from the lack of dust extraction on the air sander? Maybe in the staining process or just simply more bogging of paper?
Hi...yes that's personal choice. Watch for our video when we make the doors , you might see why I didn't put one in the middle. Thanks for watching. Wes
I like the look of the panel a lot. Is there any concern with wood movement with the pieces all glued to the plywood? I'm hoping to do something very similar on the ends of built in bookshelves that are 12" deep and 8' tall. I was planning on 3" stiles and 4-6" rails. I would use your same glue and pin technique.
wes - Im a frequent watcher of your videos, and I need to ask a question. You make your door 13/16 finished thickness, using a drum sander to sand from 7/8. can I used 13/16 as final thickness for inset doors? does face frame have to be 13/16 as well, and can i use blum euro hinges on 13/16 doors? Thinking I might just want to go standard 3/4 so I know everything fits, but I like having a thicker/heavier door. Please advise!
I’m really enjoying this build Wes👌👌👌👌👌
Thank you so very much John.
Thank you. You make soo easy to follow this project. 😃😃
Thank you very much! Wes
It's looking great Wes, thanks.
Thank you for following my channel. Wes
Great series.... Watching a pro make quick work of something like that with a belt sander looks so easy. They dont understand the thousands of hours you have spent learning how to work with the materials and tools. That sander would gouge out a dish in the face frame in an instant. You could wreck the project in a second by tilting the sander or rolling off the edge and its SO easy to do. Great work keep it up!
Thank you so very much for your comment...I appreciate you visiting the channel. Wes
Great as always keep them coming
Sure will...thanks for watching. Wes
I like your videos. I have been woodworking since High School. So about 25 years now. I am hoping for this to be my permanent career at some point soon. After all this time I still learn stuff from the different woodworkers on youtube.
I see you use the belt sander to make face frames flush. I always build mine a bit wider and then get them flush as well. However I use a small router and a spiral trim bit. It takes some practice to get used to doing, however it does a good job and I have not had any issues. I need to purchase a belt sander, however I have not yet. I have shop full of tools though.
For your wood filler do you simply just mix sawdust and glue together?
Thanks for showing us what you do.
My preference for a wood filler is Famo Wood and it is available on Amazon and at most retail lumber stores. Thanks for watching, Wes
Do you have a plan for end tables to go with that beautiful bookshelf case? If I need to buy plans I would love to.
Sorry Janet...we do not have plans. Thanks for watching, Wes
what is brand name of PUTTY for filling nail holes? thanx rick
Effortless and a pleasure to watch, love Sundays! Do you notice any issues arising from the lack of dust extraction on the air sander? Maybe in the staining process or just simply more bogging of paper?
Hi...it has never been an issue for me. Thanks, Wes
Hi, very nice teaching video, down to earth not all of us are pro's and really inspire me to do my bookcase, question what brand is your palm sander?
My palm sander is a Dynabrade and is a pneumatic sander. For an electric palm sander I prefer a Dewalt. Thanks for watching. Wes
With a side panel that long, I'd have put another rail about halfway between the top and bottom rails. But that's just me.
Hi...yes that's personal choice. Watch for our video when we make the doors , you might see why I didn't put one in the middle. Thanks for watching. Wes
I like the look of the panel a lot. Is there any concern with wood movement with the pieces all glued to the plywood? I'm hoping to do something very similar on the ends of built in bookshelves that are 12" deep and 8' tall. I was planning on 3" stiles and 4-6" rails. I would use your same glue and pin technique.
I think it will be great and you shouldn't have any problems at all. Good luck! Wes
What's the name of the air sander?
Hi...the sander is Dynabrade and can be purchased on Amazon. Thanks for watching. Wes
wes - Im a frequent watcher of your videos, and I need to ask a question. You make your door 13/16 finished thickness, using a drum sander to sand from 7/8. can I used 13/16 as final thickness for inset doors? does face frame have to be 13/16 as well, and can i use blum euro hinges on 13/16 doors? Thinking I might just want to go standard 3/4 so I know everything fits, but I like having a thicker/heavier door. Please advise!
Hi Donald...I have always made my doors to a finished thickness of 13/16. Blum hardware works great on the 13/16 thick door. Thanks for watching, Wes