Or rather than mess around with the e-parking brake you can put it in service mode.... 😁 Ignition on without engine running, gearbox in P or N, push the parking brake switch down to release the brake and hold it there, after ~2 seconds keep the parking brake switch pushed down and depress the accelerator all the way down (but don't push far enough to trigger the kickdown switch). Keep both the parking brake switch pushed down and the accelerator down and quickly cycle the ignition off/on by pressing the start button twice with 1-2 seconds in between. Keep the switch and accelerator pushed down for at least another 10-15 seconds and it should warn you that service mode is engaged at which point you can release. When you switch off the ignition you'll notice the parking brake is not automatically engaged. When you turn the ignition on you'll get a warning about service mode being enabled. To re-enable the parking brake follow the same process but pull the parking brake switch up to engage the brake instead. It might take a few attempts but does work well and avoids any messing around with the parking brake mechanism to change the rear pads.
Stupidest shit ive ever seen,now they dont even want us to use our body to put the brake on,heaven forbid we might forget or break our femur doing it. lol
Hello/ Hola, This was a great video guys. Unfortunately I do not have any knowledge about mechanics. I do have one question for you. If you suspect the breaking pads are worn-out, do you feel like you need to push the break pedal to the bottom to make the car stop? I just bought a used discovery 2017, and when drove it, I felt I had to push the pedal quite hard and almost to the bottom to make the car stop. Please bro give some advice. Thank you so much Daniel
No changing rotors with the pads? Looked like the front rotor had a pretty good lip on it - both my front & rear do at 30k miles. Great vid, will be doing this soon myself. Thanks for posting!
Im supposed to do the brakes on one of these next week but i had it in today for a pre inspection and i noticed all rotors had a lip on them on a 26 thousand mile truck,either this is normal or they are putting really shitty brakes on these things,you should have to change your pads around 25 thou and not even worry about rotors until 60 thou or so, like they say "something is rotten in Denmark" mind you this vehicle was driven by a housewife that drives like a grandma so not sure whats going on,lol
Great Video, I have to tackle this job in a couple of weeks on mine. its been a couple of years now, I'm pretty sure you guys would have done this atleast 1 more time, Is there anything that you guys did differently then the first time?
Ok I see several problems here with this video. 1/ To retract the EB piston you are turning it the wrong way. You are making the piston go deeper into the caliper not out. 2/ You show the wrong bolts that hold the EB box onto the caliper. 3/ Were you guys high? You can not retract the pistons with a C-clamp! You need a special retracting tool to push the piston back.
Yeah i used one jack and jack stands to be safe. I think a 2 ton jack should work just be careful and get a jack stand under it to be safe as jacks do fail.
that is correct i didnt have the computer to do it to the Landrover and saw online that this was a way to bypass using a computer it takes a little longer but you dont have to take it to a dealer if you are going to work on it yourself.
🤔so we’re just throwing unnecessary new parts at it for no reason whatsoever??? I can clearly see the rear pads were well above 60% left. The front pads on the Discovery 5 get changed 4 to 5 times before the rear pads need to be changed. I wouldn’t have changed them, unless the rotors are warped or grooved, but you didn’t machine or change rotors, so there was no reason to do rear pads are all.
so pretty much all the work was done off camera. Then u come back like... yep we did this and that and here we go. Doesnt help much as an instructional video
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Or rather than mess around with the e-parking brake you can put it in service mode.... 😁 Ignition on without engine running, gearbox in P or N, push the parking brake switch down to release the brake and hold it there, after ~2 seconds keep the parking brake switch pushed down and depress the accelerator all the way down (but don't push far enough to trigger the kickdown switch). Keep both the parking brake switch pushed down and the accelerator down and quickly cycle the ignition off/on by pressing the start button twice with 1-2 seconds in between. Keep the switch and accelerator pushed down for at least another 10-15 seconds and it should warn you that service mode is engaged at which point you can release. When you switch off the ignition you'll notice the parking brake is not automatically engaged. When you turn the ignition on you'll get a warning about service mode being enabled. To re-enable the parking brake follow the same process but pull the parking brake switch up to engage the brake instead. It might take a few attempts but does work well and avoids any messing around with the parking brake mechanism to change the rear pads.
Awesome thanks a million for posting this how too. My LR dealer wants a total of 2.3k to do all 4 brakes!
I'm glad it helped
Many thanks for the video guys,much appreciated.
Electric parking break madness!
Stupidest shit ive ever seen,now they dont even want us to use our body to put the brake on,heaven forbid we might forget or break our femur doing it. lol
Great video
As far as I know you just put the EPC into service mode. To jack the car, set it to off road height first then jack on jacking points.
Hello/ Hola,
This was a great video guys. Unfortunately I do not have any knowledge about mechanics.
I do have one question for you.
If you suspect the breaking pads are worn-out, do you feel like you need to push the break pedal to the bottom to make the car stop?
I just bought a used discovery 2017, and when drove it, I felt I had to push the pedal quite hard and almost to the bottom to make the car stop.
Please bro give some advice.
Thank you so much
Daniel
you should bleed your brakes. there are probably air or moisture in the line which makes the pedal soft/spongy
No changing rotors with the pads? Looked like the front rotor had a pretty good lip on it - both my front & rear do at 30k miles. Great vid, will be doing this soon myself. Thanks for posting!
it was not too bad the the rotors were still pretty thick so most likly on the next change we will replace the rotors also.
Im supposed to do the brakes on one of these next week but i had it in today for a pre inspection and i noticed all rotors had a lip on them on a 26 thousand mile truck,either this is normal or they are putting really shitty brakes on these things,you should have to change your pads around 25 thou and not even worry about rotors until 60 thou or so, like they say "something is rotten in Denmark" mind you this vehicle was driven by a housewife that drives like a grandma so not sure whats going on,lol
@@dntlss same issue here... rotors gone at 30k miles
Thanks for posting this video. Do you have a list of part numbers for the pads and sensors that your ordered?
We got the parts from Autozone When i have a chance I can look it up for you guys.
It would have beennice if you showed us how to disengage the parking brake also.
They did quite a few things they didn't show, just talked about it, smh.
I have a question ,why do you need to replace the sensor? Is it done every time the pads are changed?
If you catch it soon enough you can reuse the same sensor but once the sensor is tripped you need to change it.
Great Video, I have to tackle this job in a couple of weeks on mine. its been a couple of years now, I'm pretty sure you guys would have done this atleast 1 more time, Is there anything that you guys did differently then the first time?
Ok I see several problems here with this video.
1/ To retract the EB piston you are turning it the wrong way. You are
making the piston go deeper into the caliper not out.
2/ You show the wrong bolts that hold the EB box onto the caliper.
3/ Were you guys high? You can not retract the pistons with a C-clamp!
You need a special retracting tool to push the piston back.
You might be right this is just the way we were able to get it done.
Yo did you use just the one jack? And can I use a regular 2 ton jack?
Yeah i used one jack and jack stands to be safe. I think a 2 ton jack should work just be careful and get a jack stand under it to be safe as jacks do fail.
Most new cars you have to have a computer to release that rear hand break.
that is correct i didnt have the computer to do it to the Landrover and saw online that this was a way to bypass using a computer it takes a little longer but you dont have to take it to a dealer if you are going to work on it yourself.
you can actually put these cars in maintenance mode by pressing the parking brake switch, pressing the accelerator and cycling the ignition.
Hey guys, I think the Electronic break box is secured with torx bolts. T-30 and the piston inside is a T-47.
Its T45...at least on my 2016 Sport.
🤔so we’re just throwing unnecessary new parts at it for no reason whatsoever??? I can clearly see the rear pads were well above 60% left. The front pads on the Discovery 5 get changed 4 to 5 times before the rear pads need to be changed. I wouldn’t have changed them, unless the rotors are warped or grooved, but you didn’t machine or change rotors, so there was no reason to do rear pads are all.
so pretty much all the work was done off camera. Then u come back like... yep we did this and that and here we go. Doesnt help much as an instructional video
Thank you I said the same thing, like what's the point of recording when you don't show important things.