The Buell Blast ran the CV40 until it was cancelled in 2009. It had a "autochoke" feature which was prone to flood the carb. Can I just say I love that your getting your kid involved and not just telling him to leave you alone. You can probably get it done faster without him, but y'all are making quality memories together.
Thanks for the video, it helped me fix my 2004 sportster with similar issues, put a 45 slow jet in plus I changed the fuel / air mixture screw to an ez-just knurled adjuster.
I have a 1997 Sportster 883 that would spit and spudder then die under load. I checked the fuel air screw and it was only out 1 turn but was not able to go further as I ran out of gas as well lol. This video answered so many questions I had. I plan on doing what you did tomorrow. Thanks for the vid. Keep up the great work.
Lol 23 years old counts as old school now my man. With today's new production Harleys anything with an evo is old school, anything carbureted is the best school
I work at a shop and build carbs/tune them frequently. Here’s a general rule that helps me: if at air cleaner has been changed and exhaust, bump the pilot up by 2.5 & the main by 5. If only one has been modified, only bump the main by 2.5. Your mixture screw isn’t supposed to be your first reflex to tuning an already running bike. The immediate flat spot in poor throttle response is a mid range issue typically. Your CV needle needs to be raised. After the basic jetting and needle settings are established, your air fuel screw shouldn’t really ever exceed 1/4 turn beyond factory specification. Also, an indication of your jetting and needle settings being correct.
Thank you for the vid, thank you more for showing me a parent who doesn't shun the kid into an ipad, very refreshing. Had the same issue on 98 xlc 883, choke 1/8 out removed the fart and stumble at idle after a carb rebuild, but even with mixture screw at original settings it wasn't right. Hoping i can apply the knowledge you share today and will notify
@@purewaterswva.5409 no the clutch and primary is all original I have never replaced the clutch plate in the clutch of course I don't have the riveted clutch plate that comes apart like on the newer sportsters my bike does not shake parts do not crack or break or fall off it is a pleasure to ride. All I do to my Sportster is change the fluids and filter and do tires and brakes and regular maintenance. It is ironic that I bought it so I would have a plethora of choices for service and repair and now no one wants to touch the bike because it is over 10 years old and it's funny because the bike is now 25 years old. I just did the front seals and brakes and a new tire on the front end that I put on in 2009. He has outlasted all three of my Honda motorcycles that I bought brand new and maintained until the end of their lives.
How can you say your bike doesn't shake ? being that's its a 1999. They didn't come out with the rubber mounted engines until 04. I have an 04 and my friend has 2000. His shakes like an epileptic and mine nothing like that. And saying you have 400k on the engine and original clutch !! you must be smoking some crazy shit.
I have a 2006 883 with exhaust and air cleaner replaced , did the jetting thing and ended up with a 180 main 45 pilot and 2 1/2 turns out and runs good now.
I agree about the Bendix carbs. I've never had any issues on my 72 Sporty. As long as the accelerator pump is good, they're easy to tune and reliable. My 2000 TC has the CV carb. It has had a high flow air filter and V&H long shots put on it. The plug is still in the idle screw, so I have ordered a jet kit and will bump it up when I get it. I haven't had any performance problems but am more concerned about getting the engine to run a little cooler. I'm glad you made a point of putting on boots and jeans before your ride. Keep up the good work and ride safe.
Thanks Jerry, I like the older carbs myself. This CV has turned out to be pretty good though. Hope your bike runs good in the cooler weather but sounds like you know what to do if it doesn't! Cheers
what a beautiful view, really awesome landscapes...great video... also you need a stable idle rpms for tunning, around 900 rpm i think... besides that thanks for the video, again you live in a beautiful place brouuuuu have a great 2024.
I have those SE slip ons and I like the sound on hammer 1275. It is an 03.also have the SE air filter. My bike is tuned pretty much to perfection. Runs as good as efi only downside is the choke/enrichener can shorten plug life if over used. Good content
Have a new S&S evo engine about 1300 miles on it. Used a nos CV carb still in the box from the late 90's. It has new seals rebuilt of course. Seems like the more I ride the thing the smoother it has become over time. I get some hesitation from the bike if I get on the throttle (which I try not to-try to keep it steady no quick revs) when it isn't warmed up so I usually wait a couple of miles until I push it. Only problem I have ever had with it is I ran low on gas and had to put it on reserve which is when the stuff in the bottom of the tank (some of it is paint from when the tanks were painted unfortunately... The rest is just crap from the pumps) clogged up the fuel filter. Put gas in it and it wouldn't start, after trying to start several times it dumped gas everywhere from the overflow. A LOT of gas.... After cleaning the filter out and letting it sit for a while it started right up and runs great. I think trying to start it too many times with the filter plugged up caused the vacuum to stick holding the float open which is what dumped a ton of gas on the floor. I didn't know that could happen before that.
@@theoneracer2716 just looked at your page. Maybe you do do some of your own work, or use carb that dont have an overflow... Mine has an overflow, which put the gas on the floor. Not impossible. FU
I was working on my ‘00 XL today with the same issue, except I got a Mikuni HSR42 carb on it. I had put on a new air filter and it caused the bike to run lean, really lean, didn’t think a air filter would have such a big effect. Couldn’t get it to run right, so I’m waiting on a new jet. BTW, that rug really ties the room together! 😆👍👍
I always throw a ratchet strap over my frame between the seat and tank and hook the ends to the part of the jack that supports the bike. Makes it very stable.
The fact that the plug was still in place tells me that the previous owner just put the slip ons on the bike and took standard air filter etc off, without staging the carb, so no wonder it runs pants. Needs the stage one Dynojet kit with different spring, emulsion tube and needle. I put 170 or 175 jet and 45 idle jet in. And those bars are not standard to a Hugger, so again previous owner changed them but kept standard length cable. I would recommend getting the proper length. They look like Wideglide bars. Previous owner was a bit of a bodger IMHO 😏 great video 👍 and I wish I had your back garden 👍👍
I have an 01 883 i just finished rebuilding. Rebuilt the carb with the CVP performance kit with their included 44/175 jets and the ez mixture knob. Been getting the same hesitation at idle and some backfiring through the carb at times. I replaced the intake seals as well when I had the carb off. I haven't finely tuned the carb yet, just brought it out 2 turns and sent it. I'm really hoping some fine tuning helps with the above mentioned issues.
Hi 👋, I have had the 1992, and had the same problems, as soon as you change the pipes , it needs rejet ing, and a bigger air filter, KN , I ended up changing the Carburettor, Mikuni HSR 42 , That cured all the problems, I did, however change the fuel tank and put a larger fuel tank on because I was doing European hold rallies from UK across to France. Portugal Spain, Italy, I then purchased a FXR, 1340 , change the carburettor on that to the same model the next size up, exhaust cams, etc, etc, then, in 1999, 2000, I bought purchased a brand-new softail Deuce , Which again I changed carburettor HSR 45, two into one exhaust system boom can, new cams, new jugs , ignition module, 1550cc , Sadly, I had to sell it in 2019, with around 60,000 miles on the clock, which most of this was done in Europe, I never had a problem with it, never let me down, unlike my female ex partner, little scumbag I ended up leaving, and moved to France, I’m hoping later this year that I will purchase another Deuce , And at a young age of 71 I will start my life again travelling around Europe, Ride Safe, Phil from the moulin France.
I have a 1998 XLH 1200 and at the moment it's sadly not running (died after two hours of riding). Taking it to the shop in the next few weeks to get fully sorted as I only recently picked it up, but thankfully under warrenty. It began to cut power and the rev counter becan to act irratic, going from a stable 3k-4k to redline before flying to the 6 o'clock. Made it to a service station before the bike fully cut out and just wouldn't start again. Since getting it home, I've had to started for just a few seconds a handful of times, but even then, the revs immediately climb before cutting out. But I've noticed myself that moving the bars opens the throttle. Hopefully the Harley shop does something with it (Never worked on a Harley, nor carbs). I'd rather the bike comes back to me perfect so I can focus on maintaining the bike until I want to actually do any work.
My '97 is set at 2 1/2 out but im running a dynojet needle on stock jets(previous owner decision) and the only way I could ever get it to fatten up without turning it out to holy hell was to change the clip position to 4 to fix the mid range lean issue. You can always put a few washers on the needle and get more out of less before a full rejet though I do see the necessity of keeping it all copesetic if you really cant get it to fatten up on stocks.
Nice work man, love the channel. Cant wait to see what your doing to the shovel. Id love to have an older carberated evo. I tried to trade a guy i know my 04 road king woth a 95" twin cam for his 99 fat boy evo....he told me flat out no way...lol. o well....
After 3 it's not a big enough jet. 1 ½ with the right jet is ideal. Should be able to hear the idle screw hit the stop with a good click. It's scary what some people think is ok, handle bars on my fxdl had 600 wet and dry wrapped around after market wide bars.
It does fine now that I've gotten the right cable on with a little more free play. I bet that first cable would've been fine if it had the second cable to go with it, I just think dual cable setups are very ugly.
It's not at all uncommon to need to re-jet when changing mufflers. What is a good carb cleaner to put in the tank? I've been adding a bit of Marvel and sometimes a bit of ATF. Listening @ 20:58 in and it sounds like you are going to a richer main jet and that sounds right on track to me.
i did have the carb farts with my 86 883 too.. i did an ignition swap to dynatek singlefire, cv carb with thunderslide, and rejetted. what ive found out is that the carb fart comes from enrichening the mixture too fast, atleast for my bike. i cant rly fix it on my setup since ive build it to rev up fast. but i only get carb farts if the engine is not hot enough.
Great video. Your kid is a great cycle guy, you can already tell. I'm going to forgive you for the cheap shot you took at those who like loud pipes. I will however give you the side-eye and an evil grin as I totally own my suburban street, rocking my freshly-installed Cobra 3 "Neighbor Hater" slip-ons, rattling windows, shaking pictures off walls and scaring pets and small children.😁
Not necessary, it just makes it easer to adjust without tools. In some bikes like Triumphs the carbs are in such a tight space that even with proper 90 degree angle screwdrivers adjusting it on fly is a major pain in the ass. These thumb screws are life savers on your sanity when you are modding your bike and trying to fine tune your mixture settings.
i have a bad vibe these days. your road with so little shoulder looks a lot like the road i live on in west asheville. except much flatter. now i'm in my 70s, i have a fair amount of anxiety going further than i can push my bike. just when you came to that stop sign i thought: that's where MY bike would quit on me. i know i'm not responsible, but when your bike died, i slapped my forehead.
Dude did you tune the carb with that thing you call a air filter 🤷 !!?? You might as well as left the old screw in the bike!! No wonder it runs bad because your not getting any air in the motor!! The slide needle is really what needs to be changed to a 1200 CV early version for the spit hesitation fix tested at operational temperature!! I'm not even watching the rest of it
I work at a shop and build carbs/tune them frequently. Here’s a general rule that helps me: if at air cleaner has been changed and exhaust, bump the pilot up by 2.5 & the main by 5. If only one has been modified, only bump the main by 2.5. Your mixture screw isn’t supposed to be your first reflex to tuning an already running bike. The immediate flat spot in poor throttle response is a mid range issue typically. Your CV needle needs to be raised. After the basic jetting and needle settings are established, your air fuel screw shouldn’t really ever exceed 1/4 turn beyond factory specification. Also, an indication of your jetting and needle settings being correct.
Excellent video. I especially like the part urging older more knowledgeable people to pass that experience on to anyone interested in learning.
Thanks, yeah that's pretty important to me, I've had a lot of great older folks in my life, but also seen so many who are just grumps
The Buell Blast ran the CV40 until it was cancelled in 2009. It had a "autochoke" feature which was prone to flood the carb. Can I just say I love that your getting your kid involved and not just telling him to leave you alone. You can probably get it done faster without him, but y'all are making quality memories together.
I didn't know that about the Buell, nice bit of knowledge. And yeah, he really enjoys being out there with me and I enjoy his help!
Thanks for the sharing! Really cute to see father and son working on bikes 😁
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video, it helped me fix my 2004 sportster with similar issues, put a 45 slow jet in plus I changed the fuel / air mixture screw to an ez-just knurled adjuster.
Awesome, glad it was helpful
I have a 1997 Sportster 883 that would spit and spudder then die under load. I checked the fuel air screw and it was only out 1 turn but was not able to go further as I ran out of gas as well lol. This video answered so many questions I had. I plan on doing what you did tomorrow. Thanks for the vid. Keep up the great work.
2001…old school? Man, I’m getting old! Great video. Thanks.
😂🤣 Same here. 😅
Lol 23 years old counts as old school now my man. With today's new production Harleys anything with an evo is old school, anything carbureted is the best school
old school ......my 98 1200S still seems modern to me !!! it is compared to my other bikes...
I work at a shop and build carbs/tune them frequently. Here’s a general rule that helps me: if at air cleaner has been changed and exhaust, bump the pilot up by 2.5 & the main by 5. If only one has been modified, only bump the main by 2.5.
Your mixture screw isn’t supposed to be your first reflex to tuning an already running bike.
The immediate flat spot in poor throttle response is a mid range issue typically. Your CV needle needs to be raised.
After the basic jetting and needle settings are established, your air fuel screw shouldn’t really ever exceed 1/4 turn beyond factory specification. Also, an indication of your jetting and needle settings being correct.
Thank you for the vid, thank you more for showing me a parent who doesn't shun the kid into an ipad, very refreshing. Had the same issue on 98 xlc 883, choke 1/8 out removed the fart and stumble at idle after a carb rebuild, but even with mixture screw at original settings it wasn't right. Hoping i can apply the knowledge you share today and will notify
Hope it's helpful, and yeah, I've got a good little helper who loves working on bikes!
My 1999 Harley Davidson Sportster is 25 years old and has 400,000 miles on the original engine except for the stater in the primary.
For real? Thats amazing🔥
Did you change out the clutch pads?
@@purewaterswva.5409 no the clutch and primary is all original I have never replaced the clutch plate in the clutch of course I don't have the riveted clutch plate that comes apart like on the newer sportsters my bike does not shake parts do not crack or break or fall off it is a pleasure to ride. All I do to my Sportster is change the fluids and filter and do tires and brakes and regular maintenance. It is ironic that I bought it so I would have a plethora of choices for service and repair and now no one wants to touch the bike because it is over 10 years old and it's funny because the bike is now 25 years old. I just did the front seals and brakes and a new tire on the front end that I put on in 2009. He has outlasted all three of my Honda motorcycles that I bought brand new and maintained until the end of their lives.
Hell yeah! That's awesome!
How can you say your bike doesn't shake ? being that's its a 1999. They didn't come out with the rubber mounted engines until 04. I have an 04 and my friend has 2000. His shakes like an epileptic and mine nothing like that. And saying you have 400k on the engine and original clutch !! you must be smoking some crazy shit.
I have a 2006 883 with exhaust and air cleaner replaced , did the jetting thing and ended up with a 180 main 45 pilot and 2 1/2 turns out and runs good now.
Patience is a virtue most people lack these days. Good Job
Old school! I love it! I was born in 1952. Remember last century? Old school. Love your videos! Keep it up! P. S. I ride a 2010 883.
Great vid. My 96 has that same issue and I think you’ve taken some of the trail and error out of it for me. Thanks!
Awesome! Glad it was helpful!
I agree about the Bendix carbs. I've never had any issues on my 72 Sporty. As long as the accelerator pump is good, they're easy to tune and reliable.
My 2000 TC has the CV carb. It has had a high flow air filter and V&H long shots put on it. The plug is still in the idle screw, so I have ordered a jet kit and will bump it up when I get it. I haven't had any performance problems but am more concerned about getting the engine to run a little cooler.
I'm glad you made a point of putting on boots and jeans before your ride.
Keep up the good work and ride safe.
Thanks Jerry, I like the older carbs myself. This CV has turned out to be pretty good though. Hope your bike runs good in the cooler weather but sounds like you know what to do if it doesn't! Cheers
That little boy is actually a really good helper. Great job!
A 45 idle jet with a 175 main works great on 883's.
2&3/4s out
Great information awesome coverage
Appreciate the comment, glad the video was useful!
what a beautiful view, really awesome landscapes...great video... also you need a stable idle rpms for tunning, around 900 rpm i think... besides that thanks for the video, again you live in a beautiful place brouuuuu have a great 2024.
Thanks! Yeah I like where I live, appreciate the comment
I have those SE slip ons and I like the sound on hammer 1275. It is an 03.also have the SE air filter. My bike is tuned pretty much to perfection. Runs as good as efi only downside is the choke/enrichener can shorten plug life if over used. Good content
Thanks for the comment, I would like to do a hammer 1275 bike one day soon.
Your backyard is sick! Nice video!
Appreciate it!
Have a new S&S evo engine about 1300 miles on it. Used a nos CV carb still in the box from the late 90's. It has new seals rebuilt of course. Seems like the more I ride the thing the smoother it has become over time. I get some hesitation from the bike if I get on the throttle (which I try not to-try to keep it steady no quick revs) when it isn't warmed up so I usually wait a couple of miles until I push it. Only problem I have ever had with it is I ran low on gas and had to put it on reserve which is when the stuff in the bottom of the tank (some of it is paint from when the tanks were painted unfortunately... The rest is just crap from the pumps) clogged up the fuel filter. Put gas in it and it wouldn't start, after trying to start several times it dumped gas everywhere from the overflow. A LOT of gas.... After cleaning the filter out and letting it sit for a while it started right up and runs great. I think trying to start it too many times with the filter plugged up caused the vacuum to stick holding the float open which is what dumped a ton of gas on the floor. I didn't know that could happen before that.
That's impossible to happen as you describe..
@@theoneracer2716 Obviously you don't work on bikes much. You can keep your BS to yourself if you don't have anything productive to say.
@@theoneracer2716 just looked at your page. Maybe you do do some of your own work, or use carb that dont have an overflow... Mine has an overflow, which put the gas on the floor. Not impossible. FU
I love my 2006 sporty….nothing like riding a Harley Davidson. Ride safe man
I was working on my ‘00 XL today with the same issue, except I got a Mikuni HSR42 carb on it. I had put on a new air filter and it caused the bike to run lean, really lean, didn’t think a air filter would have such a big effect. Couldn’t get it to run right, so I’m waiting on a new jet. BTW, that rug really ties the room together! 😆👍👍
The bike sounds really good.
I always throw a ratchet strap over my frame between the seat and tank and hook the ends to the part of the jack that supports the bike. Makes it very stable.
Yup I've started doing this
Great vid, super helpful! I’m a new rider who just inherited a 98 custom with a lot of the same issues. Thanks man! Earned my sub for sure.
The fact that the plug was still in place tells me that the previous owner just put the slip ons on the bike and took standard air filter etc off, without staging the carb, so no wonder it runs pants. Needs the stage one Dynojet kit with different spring, emulsion tube and needle. I put 170 or 175 jet and 45 idle jet in. And those bars are not standard to a Hugger, so again previous owner changed them but kept standard length cable. I would recommend getting the proper length. They look like Wideglide bars. Previous owner was a bit of a bodger IMHO 😏 great video 👍 and I wish I had your back garden 👍👍
I have an 01 883 i just finished rebuilding. Rebuilt the carb with the CVP performance kit with their included 44/175 jets and the ez mixture knob. Been getting the same hesitation at idle and some backfiring through the carb at times. I replaced the intake seals as well when I had the carb off. I haven't finely tuned the carb yet, just brought it out 2 turns and sent it. I'm really hoping some fine tuning helps with the above mentioned issues.
Hi 👋, I have had the 1992, and had the same problems, as soon as you change the pipes , it needs rejet ing, and a bigger air filter, KN , I ended up changing the Carburettor, Mikuni HSR 42 , That cured all the problems, I did, however change the fuel tank and put a larger fuel tank on because I was doing European hold rallies from UK across to France. Portugal Spain, Italy,
I then purchased a FXR, 1340 , change the carburettor on that to the same model the next size up, exhaust cams, etc, etc, then, in 1999, 2000, I bought purchased a brand-new softail Deuce , Which again I changed carburettor HSR 45, two into one exhaust system boom can, new cams, new jugs , ignition module, 1550cc , Sadly, I had to sell it in 2019, with around 60,000 miles on the clock, which most of this was done in Europe, I never had a problem with it, never let me down, unlike my female ex partner, little scumbag I ended up leaving, and moved to France, I’m hoping later this year that I will purchase another Deuce , And at a young age of 71 I will start my life again travelling around Europe, Ride Safe, Phil from the moulin France.
I have all that 😁( 1992 xlh883 with a hsr 42, teardrop s&s filter with a larger fuel tank)!
I have a 1998 XLH 1200 and at the moment it's sadly not running (died after two hours of riding). Taking it to the shop in the next few weeks to get fully sorted as I only recently picked it up, but thankfully under warrenty.
It began to cut power and the rev counter becan to act irratic, going from a stable 3k-4k to redline before flying to the 6 o'clock. Made it to a service station before the bike fully cut out and just wouldn't start again.
Since getting it home, I've had to started for just a few seconds a handful of times, but even then, the revs immediately climb before cutting out.
But I've noticed myself that moving the bars opens the throttle. Hopefully the Harley shop does something with it (Never worked on a Harley, nor carbs). I'd rather the bike comes back to me perfect so I can focus on maintaining the bike until I want to actually do any work.
Very informative. Thanks.
My '97 is set at 2 1/2 out but im running a dynojet needle on stock jets(previous owner decision) and the only way I could ever get it to fatten up without turning it out to holy hell was to change the clip position to 4 to fix the mid range lean issue. You can always put a few washers on the needle and get more out of less before a full rejet though I do see the necessity of keeping it all copesetic if you really cant get it to fatten up on stocks.
I'm pretty happy with where it's at right now, good response without being too fat
My '02 FXDL (88 twinkie), EFI was an OPTION at that time, for like a $1000.00 more. I elected to go with the CV carb.
I think you made the right choice. The MM fuel injection on that Electra Glide I talked about is probably less reliable than a CV 🤣
Nice work man, love the channel. Cant wait to see what your doing to the shovel. Id love to have an older carberated evo. I tried to trade a guy i know my 04 road king woth a 95" twin cam for his 99 fat boy evo....he told me flat out no way...lol. o well....
The anti tamper plug is an EPA mandate. It wasn't Harley's idea. Like all bureaucratic requirements it should be removed immediately.
Yep. Man, I enjoyed the go-pro ride-along.
After 3 it's not a big enough jet. 1 ½ with the right jet is ideal. Should be able to hear the idle screw hit the stop with a good click. It's scary what some people think is ok, handle bars on my fxdl had 600 wet and dry wrapped around after market wide bars.
If its hesitant, change the needle clip position. My hawk 650 had this problem after tuning. Raised the clip and its solved
I had to add a spring to the accelerator pump to get mine to act right. 883 and then 1275 same thing ... accelerator pump was weak on the cv
My 2000 1200s came stock with at 45/195 lol so that carb is definitely screaming for more life.
Bro I've been looking at this bike on marketplace.
Send me a message if you're interested, I'd love to get it sold!
For that CV carb, you should have 2 throttle cables, I suspect you are missing the "return" throttle cable that helps it "snap back".
It does fine now that I've gotten the right cable on with a little more free play. I bet that first cable would've been fine if it had the second cable to go with it, I just think dual cable setups are very ugly.
My 1999 Softail has a CV carburetor. It is a descent carb.
It's not at all uncommon to need to re-jet when changing mufflers. What is a good carb cleaner to put in the tank? I've been adding a bit of Marvel and sometimes a bit of ATF. Listening @ 20:58 in and it sounds like you are going to a richer main jet and that sounds right on track to me.
Richer main and some fine tuning on the idle circuit got it running perfect!
i did have the carb farts with my 86 883 too.. i did an ignition swap to dynatek singlefire, cv carb with thunderslide, and rejetted. what ive found out is that the carb fart comes from enrichening the mixture too fast, atleast for my bike. i cant rly fix it on my setup since ive build it to rev up fast. but i only get carb farts if the engine is not hot enough.
Great video. Your kid is a great cycle guy, you can already tell. I'm going to forgive you for the cheap shot you took at those who like loud pipes. I will however give you the side-eye and an evil grin as I totally own my suburban street, rocking my freshly-installed Cobra 3 "Neighbor Hater" slip-ons, rattling windows, shaking pictures off walls and scaring pets and small children.😁
Haha, yeah yeah,I know, most people like the loud pipes, just not my thing!
😊 Nice
Those choke cables break all the time. I've broken a bunch of them, but maybe it's just me.
Good ole plastic
You could buy a baffle for it to quiet it down.
Hello do you know what size handle bars and risers the bike has its looks awesome and did you have to extend any cables and wiring?
They were on it when I bought it, if I recall correctly that bike had stock risers and the bars were a few inches taller than stock but not much
@@buttcrackcycles i understand but would you happen to know measurements like are they 12 inch ape hangers with 1 inch risers?
@@jackmeoff9471 I don't own the bike anymore
are we any further ahead? I was hoping to find a solution But only learnt more questions
Definitely riding my 84 shovel is way better than my 07 street bob.
No, those are not the stock handlebars. Those are taller.
Do you find it difficult to get the bike into neutral once it's warmed up? When cold mine is fine but after a run and it's all warmed up it struggles.
Hi nice video just make some loli pops up for the mufflers I made some 40 mm washers up cost 50 p
The thought did cross my mind
My Kawasaki is a 1978 and it has twin CV carburetors, so don't say that Hardly Ableson "came out" with them in 1988. They copied the "rice burners".
You failed to mention to blow the port out clean with compressed air then carb cleaner and air again
Why did you replace the fuel idle mixture screw? I see the knob but is this a must?
Not necessary, it just makes it easer to adjust without tools. In some bikes like Triumphs the carbs are in such a tight space that even with proper 90 degree angle screwdrivers adjusting it on fly is a major pain in the ass. These thumb screws are life savers on your sanity when you are modding your bike and trying to fine tune your mixture settings.
How come you only have 1 throttle cable?
Looks a lot cleaner
i have a bad vibe these days. your road with so little shoulder looks a lot like the road i live on in west asheville. except much flatter. now i'm in my 70s, i have a fair amount of anxiety going further than i can push my bike. just when you came to that stop sign i thought: that's where MY bike would quit on me. i know i'm not responsible, but when your bike died, i slapped my forehead.
Hahaha that's funny actually, I'm not too far from Asheville actually
Go up on the pilot jet.
I eventually did, I understand it's a long episode and most people won't watch until the end!
Try a larger pilot jet
🤘😎🤘
👍😎👍
Just watch out for ebay new cv found they have really bad flat spot not like a factory cv 😬
I haven't ran the new one at the start of the video, that one came from Sporty Parts, hopefully it'll be decent when I finally put it on that 96
Dude did you tune the carb with that thing you call a air filter 🤷 !!?? You might as well as left the old screw in the bike!! No wonder it runs bad because your not getting any air in the motor!! The slide needle is really what needs to be changed to a 1200 CV early version for the spit hesitation fix tested at operational temperature!! I'm not even watching the rest of it
I hear a chicken 🐔
The carb in your hand is a cheap Chinese carb not an original
i'm looking for carb information, not this.
dont need a history lesson bro just get to the point dam
I gave up watching half wa through. Way too much advertisement and very little info.
Bullsiting
I work at a shop and build carbs/tune them frequently. Here’s a general rule that helps me: if at air cleaner has been changed and exhaust, bump the pilot up by 2.5 & the main by 5. If only one has been modified, only bump the main by 2.5.
Your mixture screw isn’t supposed to be your first reflex to tuning an already running bike.
The immediate flat spot in poor throttle response is a mid range issue typically. Your CV needle needs to be raised.
After the basic jetting and needle settings are established, your air fuel screw shouldn’t really ever exceed 1/4 turn beyond factory specification. Also, an indication of your jetting and needle settings being correct.