Very cool test. I didn't fully understand the abuse tests. My trains and building are never subjected to anything remotely damaging. I do use primarily craft acrylic paints mainly because I live in an apartment and don't want to deal with toxic fumes of any solvent based paints. I agree with a previous comment (868) about Stynylrez (weird name) by Badger. I've tried these and they are very good primers and not that expensive. Probably the 2nd best primer next to Tamiya Fine Primer. I've already tried your homemade acrylic paint thinner and love it. Works great without all the stupid stuff. Windex, Simple Green, really!?! Sure they might work but you can also use a wrench as a hammer but I wouldn't advise it. Keep up the good work.
I use krylon for larger kits, but have always let it cure for at least 24 hours. My go to primer as of late is Stynylrez. It goes well with both airbrush applications as well as brush on. I had always used vallejo until I was swayed away by Stynylrez. Thanks for the information! -John
Very cool test. I use craft paints almost exclusively in model building and I always prime all parts before painting. I have gotten into the habit of adding a generous dose of either DuraClear or an acrylic medium to my paint befoh re air brushing. It really helps with adhesion & durability. I believe the Rust-Oleum is an enamel based paint and does take a very long time to fully cure.
I'm pretty impressed with the Vallejo Grey Primer as you showed it. It might not cover the previous color as much as the others, but I think that's an indicator that it would cause less detail loss. The Rustoleum clogging up the sandpaper is one of my biggest problems with it. I've used it a few times for various projects and not only does it clog just as you've shown, but it's inconsistent clogging and gets really frustrating trying to get an even sanding. I don't think I'd bother with the home mix paint and primer after that test, honestly. That's time and effort and can be finicky trying to get the ratios right when I'd rather just get the paint laid down. It might have some advantages, but I think the Vallejo Grey Primer shows clear advantages and is simpler and faster to use unless you're in a pinch and can't get it.
I can't argue with any of that other than to say I get a kick out of trying to make things work in ways they weren't necessarily designed for. I'm working on a project now and I think I'm going to definitely start with the Vallejo but add a layer of model color with a little polyurethane in it for fortification to see how that performs.
@bryanshobbies Absolutely. It was at least worth a try and now you know. As a base coat after a primer coat, that might be an interesting way to make things stronger. I've heard of people using enamels to do similar, since enamel tends to be more durable than acrylic, and it is kind of handy to have that more durable layer for the first color, so the masking tape for later layers does not damage the paint job. One of the things I need to do, is test various adhesives and paints for flexibility and strength. I do cosplay and when working with EVA foam it's pretty common to need a flexible adhesive and sometimes flexible paint. Contact cement is the most common for adhesives that will flex, but it would be nice to test some other potential options that might work better. Paint can be the hard part since it will often crack or at best get those ugly wrinkles.
You might want to check your audio, I’m having to crank up my volume to hear you, then when the ads kick in I have to turn it down quite a bit. Appreciate all the craft paint tests through airbrush as I’m on a budget and just got my first airbrush. I’m transitioning from brush with craft paint to airbrush but only have basic airbrush colors (red, blue, yellow, green, black and white). Thanks very much.
Great exploration Your problems are stemming from your choice of substrate. PVC, polystyrere, and any material/surface must be hydrophilic (water-loving). If you try this with non-foamed PVC it will by no mean wet out. This is a function of electronegitivity. Compare PS and PVC elec-neg, PS great, PvC bad Thats why they are somewhat tacky, they could not polymerize, or in the case of you lacquer primer, the solvent got trapped because it was being repelled not consummed
That is very interesting, I had not considered the material reaction on a molecular level. That sheds a whole new light on things. Thank you very much!
Very cool test. I didn't fully understand the abuse tests. My trains and building are never subjected to anything remotely damaging. I do use primarily craft acrylic paints mainly because I live in an apartment and don't want to deal with toxic fumes of any solvent based paints.
I agree with a previous comment (868) about Stynylrez (weird name) by Badger. I've tried these and they are very good primers and not that expensive. Probably the 2nd best primer next to Tamiya Fine Primer.
I've already tried your homemade acrylic paint thinner and love it. Works great without all the stupid stuff. Windex, Simple Green, really!?! Sure they might work but you can also use a wrench as a hammer but I wouldn't advise it. Keep up the good work.
I use krylon for larger kits, but have always let it cure for at least 24 hours. My go to primer as of late is Stynylrez. It goes well with both airbrush applications as well as brush on. I had always used vallejo until I was swayed away by Stynylrez. Thanks for the information!
-John
Thanks for the information, I'm always experimenting with different things, and I'll add that to the list. Also, thanks for watching!
Very cool test. I use craft paints almost exclusively in model building and I always prime all parts before painting. I have gotten into the habit of adding a generous dose of either DuraClear or an acrylic medium to my paint befoh re air brushing. It really helps with adhesion & durability. I believe the Rust-Oleum is an enamel based paint and does take a very long time to fully cure.
Yeah, definitely more than 48 hours. Thanks for watching!
I'm pretty impressed with the Vallejo Grey Primer as you showed it. It might not cover the previous color as much as the others, but I think that's an indicator that it would cause less detail loss.
The Rustoleum clogging up the sandpaper is one of my biggest problems with it. I've used it a few times for various projects and not only does it clog just as you've shown, but it's inconsistent clogging and gets really frustrating trying to get an even sanding.
I don't think I'd bother with the home mix paint and primer after that test, honestly. That's time and effort and can be finicky trying to get the ratios right when I'd rather just get the paint laid down. It might have some advantages, but I think the Vallejo Grey Primer shows clear advantages and is simpler and faster to use unless you're in a pinch and can't get it.
I can't argue with any of that other than to say I get a kick out of trying to make things work in ways they weren't necessarily designed for.
I'm working on a project now and I think I'm going to definitely start with the Vallejo but add a layer of model color with a little polyurethane in it for fortification to see how that performs.
@bryanshobbies Absolutely. It was at least worth a try and now you know.
As a base coat after a primer coat, that might be an interesting way to make things stronger. I've heard of people using enamels to do similar, since enamel tends to be more durable than acrylic, and it is kind of handy to have that more durable layer for the first color, so the masking tape for later layers does not damage the paint job.
One of the things I need to do, is test various adhesives and paints for flexibility and strength. I do cosplay and when working with EVA foam it's pretty common to need a flexible adhesive and sometimes flexible paint. Contact cement is the most common for adhesives that will flex, but it would be nice to test some other potential options that might work better. Paint can be the hard part since it will often crack or at best get those ugly wrinkles.
You might want to check your audio, I’m having to crank up my volume to hear you, then when the ads kick in I have to turn it down quite a bit.
Appreciate all the craft paint tests through airbrush as I’m on a budget and just got my first airbrush. I’m transitioning from brush with craft paint to airbrush but only have basic airbrush colors (red, blue, yellow, green, black and white). Thanks very much.
You're welcome, I will check that audio right now thank you!
Never thought of using the DuraClear for a primer base. I do really like the DuraClear Gloss though. Very high gloss without much work.
I've not tried it with gloss, duraclear that might be interesting... thanks for watching!
what is in the bottle you have marked ABT ????
Airbrush thinner
Great exploration
Your problems are stemming from your choice of substrate. PVC, polystyrere, and any material/surface must be hydrophilic (water-loving). If you try this with non-foamed PVC it will by no mean wet out. This is a function of electronegitivity.
Compare PS and PVC elec-neg, PS great, PvC bad
Thats why they are somewhat tacky, they could not polymerize, or in the case of you lacquer primer, the solvent got trapped because it was being repelled not consummed
That is very interesting, I had not considered the material reaction on a molecular level. That sheds a whole new light on things. Thank you very much!