How to Change Coolant (AntiFreeze) - Audi VW Seat Skoda - 2.0 TDI (ALL MODELS)
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- Опубликовано: 1 янв 2019
- This video will show you how to do a full coolant change on a 2.0 TDI Audi, VW, Seat or Skoda (all models).
The video is performed on an Audi A6 (C6 4F) but the process is identical/VERY similar on the majority of 2.0 TDI models.
In this video we show the use of the coolant purge tool, but (as explained in the video) you can also refill manually if you prefer.
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6:12 what is benefit to pull out hose from radiator instead of make few turns on drain valve?
You cover only the older models of 2.0TDI, those with PD. The new one with Common Rail is totally different, so the title "All Models" is misleading. In 2.0 TDI CR 177HP I don't have any drain next to radiator. Oil cooler is in totally different place and besides I doubt, the disconnection points are the same as in your engine.
I enjoyed this video a lot and you did cover some good amount of detail. I will be saving this video for when I tackle her Skoda Yeti or my Audi A4 Allroad. I guess it wouldn't be too hard to cobble together a piston on the top of the coolant supply and a small shut off valve or even clip so that you could bleed off that 1m of hose with the air in it.
Hey there! Glad you enjoyed and found it helpful!
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Hi,firstly do you drain coolant when hot/warm to get most of old coolant out?,and when refilling even if engine is cold does the vacuum filler fill all the system completely?,thanks.
Hi! Nice video! If your changing the oil cooler, which filter should i get for the oil cooler on an Audi A6 2.0 TDI 170 4F2 2010? Also, would i need to do an oil flush too? And isit necessary to buy the pressure kit? Thanks in advance
In this video we show the full coolant change process for the Audi/VW/Seat/Skoda 2.0 TDI models. We are using a cheap coolant purge kit we bought specifically for this video, but you can refill manually if you prefer but the kits do help avoid air in the system. And be sure to clip the main lower radiator piper back on 100% fully!!! Happy motoring!
Isn’t the quickest way just to wait to engine is cold, remove coolant line from radiator, start engine for 20 seconds, turn off. Then refit coolant line & fill up, while filling start engine with heater on hot & wait till it fills up.
HI Love your video. Excellent work. What type of vacuum pump do you use. Could you please advise the type and make of unit. In live in Australia with my Audi A6 C6 Allroad V6 diesel 3.0
Thank you for this video. I’m working on a 1.6l Skoda but I imagine the principals are the same. One thing you might help me with.. what is the name of the smooth clamp on the rad hose? It is the clamp that connects the rubber hose to the elbow, the same type of clamp found on the heater core connections. I’ve never seen this type. Can they be safely removed without destroying the rubber hose?
Cheers!
Thank you for this helpful video on flushing the coolant. Does Audi recommend a "power" flush or use of chemicals to remove scale and rust in the engine block?
hi i have a 2012 seat exeo , when my car is fully heated up ,when i let the car stand idle with the heat on the temperature goes back to cold , please can you help me thanks derek ,good video
Great video
Thank you :-)
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A bit over complicated using that thing, coolant flush:
open cap on bottle,
remove under tray,
remove bottom hose on radiator let coolant come out,
put ur mouth around expansion bottle and blow a few time to push out coolant,
attach the hose back
fill up with water run,
engine for a few minutes to circulate water,
switch engine off,
open cap
remove hose
Drain water
Mouth around expansion bottle to blow all water out
Attach hose
Fill with coolant mix 50/50 with deionised water or get redy mix (g12+ g12++ g13) full the expansions bottle
Start engine heater on hottest setting blower on full
Keep eye on level as it goes down top up, once you see the coolant in the bottle swirls around and heater is blowing hot air put cap back on switch engine off leve for 20 min,
check level if need topping up to max top up if not leve alone
Take car for a long drive until the temperature gauge goes to middle and heater blowing out air, carry on test drive to see if temperature gauge stays on middle
Drive back home park car check level whilst hot then check level 1 hour later whilst cold
Works for me
Bit confusing.. Why you need to remove pipe from radiator when there are coolant flush valve in the pipe..
About G12. It's very easy to get it on East Europe from car part dealers (like InterCar etc) as well as G12+ what is safe for mixing with G11 or G12 in the case if you don't know what type of coolant was in the system before...
this whole demostration is quite unneccesary
Great guide.
Thank you :-)
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I put a new expansion bottle on my Audi rs4 b7 took the old off put the new one on filled it up a day after loosing coolant there's a drip coming from the rear of the engine at the bottom no leaks from top am confused
I have a audi A4 Avant B6 1.9 130cv
Engine is a awx. The process is the same?
My 2008 A4 has a small screw on the coolant hard pipe on top of the engine that's used to purge any air out of the system after a drain/fill while the engine is warmed and idling. Does this car have the same? If so, there's no need for the pump or removing the reservoir (unless you need to clean it out). It's much simpler and easier.
Hi There, I have an A6 C6 2-0 TDIe 2009.
I have changed the thermostat and coolant on my car, did a refill with a purge refill kit like you said from Sealey all went exactly same as yr video started car up revved for theee minutes then left it on tick over, it would not get to 90 degrees. Today I decided to strip it all of f again, had car on drive on front only ramps removed thermostat heat in water ok, looked through thermostat hole and water pump ok no missing blades, flushed heater, block, and rad, refill system with vacuum kit while car on ramps, Top hose gets hot as all hoses do, went for test drive and temperature gauge starts cooling down, drove for another 8/9 miles checked again when home and top hose, header tank, plus connecting pipes are cold, parked car at home on slope and top hose, header unit and pipes start to get warm, however taking car on level ground again and top hose goes cold took it for a test drive, if I turn heater off temperature goes up to normal but top hose still cold, turn heater back on and temperature starts falling, top hose still cold,
Any thoughts or ideas would be great
Many Thanks
Kevin
very good vid, thank You so much, helps me to get my Audi done. Roland from good old Germany
Perfect! Glad it was helpful, and greetings go out to our German viewers!
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Is this good for Volkswagen Passat 2013 SEL 2.5 liter?
Would it be the same situation for the 4.0 twin turbos TSFI engines. I have a 2013 Audi S8 and with 4,000 dollar coolant flushes… yea I’d rather do it myself.
What would happens if I drain below and refill the top without a vacuum pump?
Nothing. You drive the car with the heater on high, then park and with a towel over the reservoir lid, SLOWLY unscrew it SLIGHTLY just until you hear a bit of pressure escape. It will bubble, and when it stops, close the lid. Drive again, and repeat at least once. If your car has a hard pipe in the coolant system (usually on the top of the engine somewhere) it should have a small screw for purging the air from the system the same way you do it at the reservoir lid. Turn that screw slightly until coolant bubbles and foams out (DO NOT screw it out beyond this!). Watch the trickle, and when it turns from bubbles and foam to a smooth drip, close the screw, drive around and repeat. Not all cars may have this screw, or it may be in different locations depending on vehicle.
When the engine is warm, the cooling system will be under some pressure from the expansion of the coolant. This would be a good time to use the bleed screw above the scuttle would it not? That is the highest point in the system, and the pressure from the warm coolant should force any air out.
To bleed the heater hose, I open the bleeder, put my lips against the expansion tank filler hole and blow hard until the coolant comes out of the bleed.
I close the purge and it's done!
Does the Audi workshop manual mention flushing the system? The old coolant looks quite "tired", so we can assume that after draining it there is still a lot of sediments, debris/rust and old coolant remaining. Not to mention the case of changing the coolant with specification incompatible with the old one.
It's a simple enough process to flush. You can refill the system with water (distilled/mixing water) and run it around the system, and then refill again but this time with your coolant. So just do the process twice effectively, but don't let the car run too hot with just water as the boiling point is lower (of course) than coolant, so just enough to get it fully circulating, then dump it again and refill. This will help flush out anything left over after your standard drain. If your car has original Audi brand coolant in then you can refill with G13 as it is backwards compatible, or if you don't know what's in there then you can get non genuine G13 equivalents designed to be compatible with any other coolant. Hope that helps! :-)
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Nice video,what is the cam belt and water pump interval for a golf mk7 1.4tsi 2017 model,can’t find the information for this anyway,owners manual don’t even mention this,the car is act r-line if that makes any difference
Hey there! Unfortunately we are not covering the Golf MK7 platform just yet. We are hoping to be able to expand Total Technik to cover additional models, but it's not a cheap task and our expansion will be soely reliant on the support we receive from our viewers.
Hopefully we can cover that model in the not-too-distant future!
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I use Holt's g13 and it says not to dilute... I also bleed it by filling the expansion tank and putting on the cap.. I remove the return pipe hold it up high as I can and use about 2 psi to push the air out .. by putting a skinny nozzled air gun into where the return pipe goes... Works a treat.. system bled in a few seconds.. of course check level after a drive and the car is cold.
I thought the workshop manual also mentions to drain the coolant from the water pump hoses as well? I'm looking to do this process on a 2011 Golf 2.0 tdi which has the transverse engine setup.
The process can vary a touch from model to model depending on the exact engine and set up. Shown here is the A6 C6 2.0 TDI and this is followed to the letter using the Audi Workshop manual. So you will see the oil cooler pipes disconnected in this instance. The basic process remains the same on all of the 2.0 TDI models, but there can be minor differences.
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What is the tool called, he is bleeding the coolant back in with?
Is that not a drain Petcock that you twist and it will drain the coolant? Most Radiators have them. Just curious why you just didn't turn the valve and let it drain. seems like a lot more work taking the hose all the way off? Sort of new to VWs but if that's the way the Manual says to do it.
I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure it is. It even has a flange to connect a small length of hose to neatly catch the coolant!
There is a drain valve on the adapter that you removed.
So for example octavia 3 2.0tfsi rs 2015 /1.6tdi etc. Its possible to change new coolant without this tool? Someone told me its not possible, becase of some valves in system. So standart procedure is possible like in older models.. ? Do you need setup coolant change process via diagnostic? Thank you
Hey there! Unfortunately we are not covering the 2.0fsi platform just yet. We are hoping to be able to expand Total Technik to cover additional models, but it's not a cheap task and our expansion will be soely reliant on the support we receive from our viewers.
Hopefully we can cover that model in the not-too-distant future!
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3:30 I am unable to pull off hose from bottom of radiator (outlet, drain) ... any tricks ? I read that silicone oil, some levering but I dont want to damage it ...
Yes, the can be tough sometimes! The key is to keep rocking and pulling. Don't go crazy, but you have to pretty firm with them! Or you could use the drain port, which can be seen in this video located on the side of the lower hose. You don't get quite as deep a drain as removing the lower hose (which is likely why the Audi workshop manual instructs to do it that way), but it can be quicker and easier than a stuck hose!! Best of luck!
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I have golf 7 tdi 2013 used the cooling water g13 from ATQ I changed the pipe welding the mechanic added about 1.5 liters g12+ (from ATQ) not g13 ..... is this not dangerous for the car ...Please answer me
Technically they are usually backwards compatible only. Being 2013 your car would be G13 from the factory. G12++ and G13 are ok for your car, but it is not meant to be backward mixed with G12+. However, as it was not the genuine coolant theirs may be different and more compatible, you would need to check on the ATQ website. In reality, you'll lkely be absolutely fine, especially as it is a fairly low quantity too.
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hello and thanks for your help in my Audi A4 B6 I had changed almost all of the hoses but always the water level in the tank is decreasing could the tightening of the hand lower piper be the cause
Are you experiencing any visible leaks, or leaks on your driveway?
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@@TotalTechnik the leaks in driveway
@@ouahchiamor7627 Ok, that's probably the better of the two options! So, you definitely have a leak, so you need to get under the car and have a good look around to see where it is coming from. Remove the undertray panel, and look for the wet spots, and try and trace it back up to it's highest point and see if you can find where the leak is coming from. It could indeed be the lower pipe as you mentioned, but could also be things like the radiator, intercooler/s (if you have them) etc. So you really need to spend 10 minutes under the car with a good torch and have a good look around. It *should* be fairly easy to spot which area it is coming from, which will give you the starting point. But don't replace anything else until you can physically see where the leak begins. Best of luck!
@@TotalTechnik thank you I will try to see
How many liters of coolant is enough to be suct in with this tool? On video only one liter or less gets in? Thanks
From memory, it was very close to sucking in the full 5 litre bottle before the pressure regulated for us. It can vary a little, but you should use a minimum of a 5 litre container.
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My mechanic didnt drain the coolant.. it seemed he just suck it up with an aspirator from the top and then poured new one is that good? ( sorry for my english)
Interesting! Hey, I'm sure he know exactly what he's doing so unless you get an issues you should be safe to assume that all is done correctly :-)
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Hey, would this video be applicable for the the Audi A6 C7 2.0TDi? Thanks 🙏
Hey there! Yes, this should cover the majority of 2.0 TDI models out there. There may be minor variations in component set-up, but the basic process remains the same.
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Doesnt the thermostat need to be open too drain maximum coolant?
Hey there! No, not necesarily. This method here is a touch long-winded but is the Audi factory method and helps ensure a full drain down.
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@@TotalTechnik My question is how much coolant is still behind the thermostat to be drained.
Hello, please, what pressure does the compressor need to have for this tool? can I use the compressor from the refrigerator?
why do u remove the hose when there is a petcock valve right there?
Yes, this car did have a hose with a (blocked!) petcock on the side (not all have this). We went as per the Audi workshop manual, which is to remove the hose to get the maximum drain.
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Coolant capacity after liquid change
Hi everyone. I changed coolant liquid at mechanics and turns out car took only around 3 litres of coolant, almost half of max [by user manual]. I'm driving abouth month and coolant capacity is between min and max without changes. Car temps are normal, thermostat working as usual... But why is such less coolant liquid then before? What to do? Should I worry?
Car is VW Passat CC 2016 2.0 TDI
On the invoice maybe it was 3 litres of concentrated coolant?
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You could add in the description the required quantity for this engine type, although it may vary, but not much.
We tried to avoid this due to engine type variations actually. A quick google search should heed the exact quanties for your exact engine.
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@@TotalTechnik, nope, sounds good, doesen't work, at least I keep getting PDF's from commaoil with (zero) 0L coolant quantity, and usually the best answers are on the forums but not always (this case).
Obviously, adding the exact quatity for the exact engine CODE you serviced here would be a basic information to share on a tutorial
edit: guess I'll have to stick to put in the same quantity that I got out
@@braptechfun6036 Hey there! We did actually add how much we used for the change for this specific engine/car. It's at the end of the video :-)
The gauge was at 8 when you started the purge. You mention that you have to bring it to 22. Aren’t you suppose to compensate by bringing the vacuum at 30? I am confused!
Hey there! No, the gauge *should* have been at 0 to begin. Cheap Chinese made set and the needle does not drop back to the 0 position, but gives the correct pressure reading once going. Hopefully your gauge on your tool will start at 0. No need to compensate for anything :-)
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Isn’t there an engine block drain plug?
Depends on the model, but on this one no. There is sometimes a drain plug on the lower hose (this one had one, but we wanted to follow the Audi workshop manual 100% so removed the hose rather than use the plug), but not necessarily a block drain plug for coolant. Some do have them, like the B6 and B7 S4 we cover in-depth on our channel has a nice plug on the bottom of the water pump. But not all have them. The process shown here is exactly as per the Audi workshop manual process.
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Their is a drive petcock down thebottom
Isn’t that a drain petcock I see on the hose?
Yes it is. However, to fully drain down the system completely for a full coolant change as per Audi workshop instructions, you don't use it. It's located half way up the pipe and so using it will not drain all of the coolant out. As shown here is the exact Audi workshop method, using a cheaper DIY orientated version of their tool. This should get as much coolant out as it is possible to.
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Yes it is. However, to fully drain down the system completely for a full
coolant change as per Audi workshop instructions, you don't use it.
It's located half way up the pipe and so using it will not drain all of
the coolant out. As shown here is the exact Audi workshop method, using a
cheaper DIY orientated version of their tool. This should get as much
coolant out as it is possible to.
What differences are there in this procedure on a a6 c6 (2006) with the 4.2?
The basic procedure will be the same for most Audi/VW models. There will be some differences in component positions, but for the most part the basic process itself would be the same.
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Gone are the days of dropping the coolant, refilling, and sticking the heaters on until bled. What a ball ache!
Are you Running Z man from twitch ? The voice is the same :D
I use the water from my dehumidifier, I wouldn't drink it but I figure it's pure enough for the car
Im thinking the same. Have only kept 5L though. It will have dust in it though, so best to filter first I guess.
why didn`t you just use the drain tap that you had covered with your thumb for most of the video ?
We decided to do it exactly as per the Audi workshop manual as not all have the plug. Also, often (as in this car too!) the drain plug was clogged up. Quicker this way too as you get a much faster drain, which is likely why the Audi workshop manual instruction is popping the hose off.
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@@TotalTechnik I see, the Audi manual probably recommends popping the hose off so they can add another Pavarotti (tenner) to the bill !
Is it the same process on a Skoda superb 2 2010 diesel model do you happen to know ?
this doesn't show all models... my Seat Altea 2008 doesn't have this kind of set up...
Hey there. Sorry to hear that. Is yours the 2.0 TDI diesel?
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@@TotalTechnik Yes, it's 2.0 TDI Seat Altea, the tube you're showing at 5:33 thet has the metal clip is there similarly but there was another one right below it (actually going down) which we unhooked and drained the cooler anyways. Could it be due to car being UK model?
Ah ok! Yes, there will be some small variations between the various 2.0 TDI models, but the basic process/concept is the same for all.
Glad you got sorted :-)
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Total Technik 7
Or just unscrew the drain screw that's under your thumb pal..
Yes, definitely an option. We've done this using the exact Audi workshop manual procedure. I think the preference for removing the hose is that it will allow a 'deeper' drain than the plug, as the tap sits half way up the side of the pipe meaning it will always have approx 1/4 sat in the bottom, as opposed to disconnecting the hose and bending it downward will allow a much fuller, and also quicker (!) drain. Also it avoids the possibility of breaking the tap if it is stubborn/old.
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It's called a petcock!
Too much unnecessary work. Drain via petcock, hose removal, etc..
Hey there! Yes, you can miss some steps or do some shorter cuts for sure. However this is the proper Audi workshop method as per the Audi workshop manual. This way ensures the maximum possible drain out of the old coolant.
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