I changed nothing for winter yet, but I have added brake shelters above disc brakes, because liquid sand tripling down from mudguards would ruin the brakes otherwise. Also my bike has dedicated mudguard mounts(it's cyclocross/hybrid/gravel/whatever), but I still extended the front mudguard by about 12cm, so that it' would not throw sand to front light and also into camera.. And obviously I added also large mud flap to the rear of front mudguard, that it would not throw sand to chainring and chain so much.. When winter arrives I switch to winter wheels with studded tires and 11 - 40 tooth mtb cassette together with winter chain, that is a bit longer for winter cassette.
Get a winter bike, preferably steel, with mudguard eyelets and fit the best muddies you can afford. Slap on a dynamo front hub and wire in permanent lights and you're set up for everything. Keep the good carbon bike for the clean roads and months!
Nothing, I have winter/wet bike with full length mudguards - Trek Domane SL gen. 3 with SKS bluemels long - love this bike,. So much that I am considering changing my Specialized Aethos for second Domane - SLR gen 4.
I also use the raceblades on both of my bikes. Tip to avoid the "modifications": you can simply slide the guards into their mounts with a little pressure so that they close these gaps.
Mudguards are necessary all year round! Even in the summer you will find water that people from the houses nearby are throwing on the street because they are washing their car for example, or a water pipe has broken and so much water is wasted on the street converting the street into a river! And the major doesn't care into fixing this massive water leak! In case you 've been wondering i am living in Greece!
I like my Crud Roadracer Mk3s because they are designed to protect the bike unlike the ones in the video which are useless at that. The rear should go all the way down past the bottom bracket.
I use the raceblades since they were introduced. First, I was not so convinced, as with the front wheel there comes a spray out which also may come in the face, but I found out that it is possible to put a rear race blade in the front holder, which is very recommended if your fork allows this. The blade then end a few inches in front of the fork. I did that on my now 30 years old steel frame bike as well as on my second Giant CFR expert series which I use in winter and bad summer weather, and both have quite narrow forks. By the way, it is possible (at least with my elder raceblades) to move the blades in the holder, so Alex could close the gaps without adding material😉.
Love the idea of adding an additional guard out the front! I might have to try that! I'm aware of all the adjustments possible, but the additional parts are simply to create additional length on the guards. No amount of position adjustments will make them longer hahaha.
Take care! Exactly that mud guards German Brand broke the paint of my carbon frame. Even with the sticker protections, the front ones is not for race bikes Xs, S and M frame sizes not advised. Probably more designed for gravel bikes or bigger frame sizes.
I know you said close to the tire the better, but how close is too close to avoid rubbing, clearance from stuff on the tire? Also a suggestion: lay something on the tire for appropriate space and lay the guards on the tire. That way it's an easier deal. Thanks for the content Alex and crew.
The most important thing is that the front mudguard reaches down far enough. Otherwise the spray from the front wheel hitting the chain will wear it out very quickly.
Water from back fender will get there anyway, it have to go somewhere. Same with front fender, if there's too much it will splash to the sides, on shoes. It's very hard to really keep it from overflowing, I got myself big amsterdam style mudflap for my city speedy bike and believed it will protect my shoes, pedals and cranks (as it's claimed that people in Holland always dress for destination, not the ride) and past something like 15km/h it still overflows on puddles. Guess I expected too much, their bikes are not meant to go fast anyway and speed is major factor.
I agree, it is trial and error, fitted SKS mudguards to Lapierre ECrosshill gravel bike and it took hours. Can't remember the last time I faffed so much. Got them rub and rattle free until 2 weeks later I fitted 40x700 from 37x700 Maxxis Ravager on rear wheel and a 40x700 Rambler on front. This reduced the tolerance, so need to faff again but just can't be bothered so putting up with a wee bit of rattle.
Hi Alex, good sense to have mud guards especially if your riding buddies don't like the taste of mud. Top tip here, make sure you've got your glasses on for the group ride because someone is bound to be "too cool" to avoid throwing mud at you. Instead of adhesive tape which might peel paint when you remove it how about a bit of old inner tube as a gasket. Remeber if its a gravel bike for off road, you need more clearnce to avoid clogging up. My bike has eyelets for mud guards so I have full length. I've gone a bit further in that I have set the rear mudguard too far round so that the front end is just lower than the big chain ring. Its surprising how much less muck the drive train attracks. Good for maintenance. In stead of investing in a GCN ass saver, you could go full "Blue Peter" and cut a bit out the side of the (empty) washing up bottle. Last but not least, its a "bodge" from Si for the "Zipp ties" but if you had 3d printed the lot, a "hack"!!! As an after thought, considering the new Lotus with massive clearance for aero, will that be next big thing, so we can have proper winter training guards.
Thanks for the comment Emma! Some very important mud guards tips here 🙌 DIY mud flaps and ass savers are super cool! You can get real funky with the patterns! Great tips around gravel mudguards, havng a bit of room for that extra mud is a great shout!
Nice video as always Adrian. I would say that fitting guards too close to the tyre can result in mud (or worse) clogging the gap between tyre and guard if you find a really messy road and I always fit an extra "flap" to the rear of my guards. I'd also tape all round the stays and forks and the rubber mounting strap can also rub.
They Adrian, old butyl tubes you've got that have been waiting to be patched for a year now make for excellent frame protection. Also, those mounts have holes for zip ties; frame/cut off butyl tube/mount secured with zip ties will save most/all of the periodic readjustments often required.
SKS Raceblades Pro are the mudguards Adam is showing here. I have both the L and XL versions. I highly recommend securing the mudguards further with zip ties to add more stability when going over bumpy roads. (There are zip tie holes built in the holder)
the Siborg will blow a circuit!!!Well done. But the reality is: The cool kids always rip off the reflectors and fenders on day one of bike ownership. Enjoyed the vid Felix.
LOVEEE getting my front foot stuck in the front one when pulling away from the cafe on the club ride, and having one of those static falls that seems to take about 10 seconds.. :D I thought you'd have mentioned the 'essential' club ride extra flappage required especially on the back, my local clubs would tut all day if you hadn't extended it to almost scrape the floor; I seen people even using old plastic milk bottles!
Hahaha you get some pretty funky hacks when it comes to mudguards! The issue of toe overlap should be considered and will need to be taken on a case by case basis for your bike and guards. That said, it only really comes into play during slow riding.
I use the raceblades on my favourite bike, even though it has mudguard mounts, because full mudguards are much heavier. The raceblades weigh 365g, whereas the Bontrager NCS full mudguards I have on my winter bike weigh 907g. Also, I can just remove the raceblades in seconds on one of those rare, cloudless, crisp, sunny winter days.
and this is why I love my new alu gravel bike, mud guards fit through the frame. Alex, this all could have been done better with a different bike. I give you: C- on this video. 🤣
They used the SKS Raceblade in this video if anyone wants to know that. The raceblade pro can cover up to 32mm but also 34mm in my case, because they are pretty "wide". And there is also the long version of the race blade, that is just having more length.
Used these for several years. Be very careful with the front one. After one quite bumpy ride, the top of the guard rubbed the paint off my carbon frame (in 1 ride!). The top edge of the plastic that holds the metal supports was sharp and rough and can bounce against the down tube - poor design. Best bet is not use the front or apply frame protector on the underside of your down tube and add some protection the guard itself. I found Sugru to be perfect for this. Agree with Alex about the rear one needing to be longer. Maybe SKS don’t actually ride in the wet when testing their products.
The SKS X Blade is a excellent fender and installs in seconds with just 1 clip that holds the fender securely , I just did a video of it on my channel 😊
And yes, wish I'd done the tape thing. "Only" my winter bike, but have trashed the paint work. Not as bad, however, as when I tried to position the guards under my brake calipers (to avoid them getting caked in grit) and the end of guard has worn away the paint down to bare carbon where seat stays are joined. Also have had lower race of headset trashed by guard not being long enough to go underneath. I would defo consider next winter bike being steel or similar where I can fit full length mudguards!
Greetings As always another brilliant detailed video 🇺🇸🎉🍾🇺🇸 Would you provide me with the link to purchase the mudguards. Thank you so much for assisting me
That tape is going to look pretty tatty come spring, and there'll be grit and all-purpose crud under the edges. Better get one that sticks like hell. Also: a plastic-backed notebook is a great source of mudflap material.
A word of warning: if you have rim brakes, make sure that the rear mudguard won't go under the rear brake bridge, the tube between the seat stays. If it can and you go over a rough surface, the guard could bounce in there, be trapped, and act as a brake, stopping you very quickly. It happened to me. My ride partner, who was behind me, was not happy.
If you clean the stay with alcohol you may get better adhesion from your tape. If you really want to protect your stay, you probably want the tape to go all the way around the stay too.
My seat stays are all squiggly, so there isn't a straight and flat bit where the different brand of fenders I bought that mount like this need to be placed 🫤. It looks like the race blades might mount closer to the seat stay, which has an outwards bow to the axle but is at least a straight line looking from the side 🤔. My other bike has rear fender mounts, but the fork tapers at the back too narrow for these types of fenders to fit securely.
Doesn't your Orca have hidden fender mounts? The 2023 model did. I wish you had shown how to adjust full coverage fenders for clearance. One of the most frustrating jobs is fitting full coverage fenders and trying to work out where they are rubbing the wheel and if you need to take a Dremel to them for frame clearance.
My tip is to forget about those clip on mudguards, buy some p-clamps and zip ties and mount regular full size mudguards on the bike. Possibly sizing down a size on the tires to fit them well. Step 2 if you are not racing is to sell that crappy bike without mounts, and buy one made to fit fenders. Unless you are a wimp and do not ride in the rain or living in the south of spain like me you should just leave those fenders on all year long as there is no reason to remove them unless you are racing.
@gcntech Dear GCN team, l hope that you are all doing great. I hope that you can help me a little bit with a small concern of mine which is letting me ride indoors for most of the time (there is nothing wrong with that, but riding outside is more fun). My biggest issue is how we can protect our pride and joy of a bicycle against nature's elements such as mud, rain, cold? Would you recommend using specific lubricants? Would it be required to service or inspect the bicycle more frequently? Thanks 🎉
If your frame doesnt come with eyelets for mounting fenders, you can get a BOB trailer axle, and mount the stays to the mounting bolts for the bobbins. QR and thruaxle are all available. Clip on fenders are garbage.
#AskGCN Dear GCN, I have the exact same mudguards. When loosening the bolts as alex did, I accidentally lost one of the nuts that sit in the recesses to kind of captivate them. I've tried looking for spares on SKS website online and can't find anything spares wise. I don't suppose with your superior knowledge and connections you'd be able to track me down a spare. Such a tiny thing doing such an important job of retaining the metal strut! Help! Thank you. Love you bye xx
Mudguards. Not bloody 'fenders'. Agreed they are the best thing for winter though. Those race blades are not really great though, they dont come down enough either end to really protect the person behind or the drivetrain. Proper full length guards with flaps fitted front and rear are miles better.
Am I the only one who thinks drawing on ur expensive frame with sharpie is kinda crazy, like it’s one thing on a cheap black winter bike but that’s like a 8+k bike he’s drawing on with permanent marker, couldve just used painters tape 2in up the stay and measuresd when putting back on
On one hand, this is definitely a good and practical solution, but on the other bike looks quite ugly with these mudguards. And good question is what a difference in aerodynamic with installed mudguards. Understandable, that it will be worst but how worst?
If you have enough money in order to have such an expensive bike you should buy a winter bike and don't ride your race bike in winter. Your winter bike should have the right bits to attach normal mud guards that don't have those gaps. You are more likely to damage your frame in winter and the amount of filth on the road that goes on your groupset is going to lead to more wear. When it snows you don't want the salt to go on your race bike, you don't want to crash on your race bike. If you are short of money then fine compromise. You are not going to need all the light weight carbon fiber whilst it's February and you're cycling head on into hail stones that are hammering into your face and your jaw is so cold you can't talk properly, not the time for light weigh titanium.
It's easy to tell front from rear guard. The front one looks stupid. The rear one looks equally as stupid. It doesn't matter which order they are thrown in the bin.
Well after all that work lets see the ALL the GCN team lead by example by using mudguards on their bikes when doing videos in crap conditions. Nothing worse than getting a faceful of wet (possibly cow shit laden) mud in your face if you live in the sticks like I do!!!
I cannot figure out why cycling channels think fenders should be linked to winter riding. There are plenty of dry winter days and plenty of wet summer days.
@@mb10kx Sometimes true. Drying of pavement is driven by several factors: ambient temperature, humidity, sunlight, and wind. Where I live, winter days are frequently very sunny and a bit windy, so wet pavement dries quickly. Not so much on a cloudy, humid summer day.
Where I live (in the UK) the roads have not been dry for weeks and weeks on end. Even when it doesn't rain it takes days for the roads to dry this time of year, and then you get all the overflow from fields etc. going onto the roads as well so dry roads are a luxury we wont see much of until spring.
What else do you change on your bike in winter? ❄🚲
You still spray anyone behind so I attached a whole ass saver to the bottom of my mudguard .
@@craigmaberly8561 Same!
I changed nothing for winter yet, but I have added brake shelters above disc brakes, because liquid sand tripling down from mudguards would ruin the brakes otherwise. Also my bike has dedicated mudguard mounts(it's cyclocross/hybrid/gravel/whatever), but I still extended the front mudguard by about 12cm, so that it' would not throw sand to front light and also into camera.. And obviously I added also large mud flap to the rear of front mudguard, that it would not throw sand to chainring and chain so much..
When winter arrives I switch to winter wheels with studded tires and 11 - 40 tooth mtb cassette together with winter chain, that is a bit longer for winter cassette.
Get a winter bike, preferably steel, with mudguard eyelets and fit the best muddies you can afford. Slap on a dynamo front hub and wire in permanent lights and you're set up for everything. Keep the good carbon bike for the clean roads and months!
Nothing, I have winter/wet bike with full length mudguards - Trek Domane SL gen. 3 with SKS bluemels long - love this bike,. So much that I am considering changing my Specialized Aethos for second Domane - SLR gen 4.
Finally, someone said it! Mudguards can look cool!! Agree 100%, Alex.
I also use the raceblades on both of my bikes. Tip to avoid the "modifications": you can simply slide the guards into their mounts with a little pressure so that they close these gaps.
Mudguards are necessary all year round! Even in the summer you will find water that people from the houses nearby are throwing on the street because they are washing their car for example, or a water pipe has broken and so much water is wasted on the street converting the street into a river! And the major doesn't care into fixing this massive water leak!
In case you 've been wondering i am living in Greece!
I like my Crud Roadracer Mk3s because they are designed to protect the bike unlike the ones in the video which are useless at that. The rear should go all the way down past the bottom bracket.
That mudguard extension was definitely a hack! Nice job Alejandro!
1000x better...??? I've told you a million times not to exaggerate
OK, 999x better
@@GCNalex perfect
Brilliant irony
I use the raceblades since they were introduced. First, I was not so convinced, as with the front wheel there comes a spray out which also may come in the face, but I found out that it is possible to put a rear race blade in the front holder, which is very recommended if your fork allows this. The blade then end a few inches in front of the fork. I did that on my now 30 years old steel frame bike as well as on my second Giant CFR expert series which I use in winter and bad summer weather, and both have quite narrow forks. By the way, it is possible (at least with my elder raceblades) to move the blades in the holder, so Alex could close the gaps without adding material😉.
Love the idea of adding an additional guard out the front! I might have to try that! I'm aware of all the adjustments possible, but the additional parts are simply to create additional length on the guards. No amount of position adjustments will make them longer hahaha.
Take care! Exactly that mud guards German Brand broke the paint of my carbon frame. Even with the sticker protections, the front ones is not for race bikes Xs, S and M frame sizes not advised. Probably more designed for gravel bikes or bigger frame sizes.
I know you said close to the tire the better, but how close is too close to avoid rubbing, clearance from stuff on the tire? Also a suggestion: lay something on the tire for appropriate space and lay the guards on the tire. That way it's an easier deal. Thanks for the content Alex and crew.
If the stays aren't bending, then 3-5mm clearance is enough.
Are your mudguards too close? 🔎
They mostly rattle to the sides so its better to ask if particular fenders are wide enough for mounted tires, but on road bikes it's less important.
The most important thing is that the front mudguard reaches down far enough. Otherwise the spray from the front wheel hitting the chain will wear it out very quickly.
Water from back fender will get there anyway, it have to go somewhere. Same with front fender, if there's too much it will splash to the sides, on shoes. It's very hard to really keep it from overflowing, I got myself big amsterdam style mudflap for my city speedy bike and believed it will protect my shoes, pedals and cranks (as it's claimed that people in Holland always dress for destination, not the ride) and past something like 15km/h it still overflows on puddles. Guess I expected too much, their bikes are not meant to go fast anyway and speed is major factor.
Race blades are brillient had them on last winter , real easy to take off and pop back on too ..they are already on with all the wet roads 😀
I agree, it is trial and error, fitted SKS mudguards to Lapierre ECrosshill gravel bike and it took hours. Can't remember the last time I faffed so much. Got them rub and rattle free until 2 weeks later I fitted 40x700 from 37x700 Maxxis Ravager on rear wheel and a 40x700 Rambler on front. This reduced the tolerance, so need to faff again but just can't be bothered so putting up with a wee bit of rattle.
Winter is a great time here in Queensland to ride. Driest time of year and daytime temperatures around 20C or higher nice for riding.
Hi Alex, good sense to have mud guards especially if your riding buddies don't like the taste of mud. Top tip here, make sure you've got your glasses on for the group ride because someone is bound to be "too cool" to avoid throwing mud at you.
Instead of adhesive tape which might peel paint when you remove it how about a bit of old inner tube as a gasket.
Remeber if its a gravel bike for off road, you need more clearnce to avoid clogging up.
My bike has eyelets for mud guards so I have full length. I've gone a bit further in that I have set the rear mudguard too far round so that the front end is just lower than the big chain ring. Its surprising how much less muck the drive train attracks. Good for maintenance.
In stead of investing in a GCN ass saver, you could go full "Blue Peter" and cut a bit out the side of the (empty) washing up bottle.
Last but not least, its a "bodge" from Si for the "Zipp ties" but if you had 3d printed the lot, a "hack"!!!
As an after thought, considering the new Lotus with massive clearance for aero, will that be next big thing, so we can have proper winter training guards.
Thanks for the comment Emma! Some very important mud guards tips here 🙌 DIY mud flaps and ass savers are super cool! You can get real funky with the patterns! Great tips around gravel mudguards, havng a bit of room for that extra mud is a great shout!
Nice video as always Adrian. I would say that fitting guards too close to the tyre can result in mud (or worse) clogging the gap between tyre and guard if you find a really messy road and I always fit an extra "flap" to the rear of my guards. I'd also tape all round the stays and forks and the rubber mounting strap can also rub.
(that's Alex!)
@@yorkshirebrad that's the joke.
@@johnstrac ah thanks I’m rarely a comment dweller 👍🏻🤣
Yep got those mudguards. they work fine !
They Adrian, old butyl tubes you've got that have been waiting to be patched for a year now make for excellent frame protection.
Also, those mounts have holes for zip ties; frame/cut off butyl tube/mount secured with zip ties will save most/all of the periodic readjustments often required.
Great Vid, Those race Blades have always worked great for me. A video on winter tyres would be great too.
Cheers Steve, i'm on it for the winter tyres... Vid soon(ish)
SKS Raceblades Pro are the mudguards Adam is showing here. I have both the L and XL versions. I highly recommend securing the mudguards further with zip ties to add more stability when going over bumpy roads. (There are zip tie holes built in the holder)
is there a GCN Tech channel in joke im missing, everyone calling him any other name than Alex?
Have a look at Kinesis ‘guards - the best I’ve ever used.
Good timing. Ordered the SKS Raceblade Pro Stealths yesterday from Halfords. Got them in exchange for 37 of the King's gold coins.
the Siborg will blow a circuit!!!Well done. But the reality is: The cool kids always rip off the reflectors and fenders on day one of bike ownership. Enjoyed the vid Felix.
LOVEEE getting my front foot stuck in the front one when pulling away from the cafe on the club ride, and having one of those static falls that seems to take about 10 seconds.. :D I thought you'd have mentioned the 'essential' club ride extra flappage required especially on the back, my local clubs would tut all day if you hadn't extended it to almost scrape the floor; I seen people even using old plastic milk bottles!
Hahaha you get some pretty funky hacks when it comes to mudguards! The issue of toe overlap should be considered and will need to be taken on a case by case basis for your bike and guards. That said, it only really comes into play during slow riding.
Been using speedrockers for a few years on my gravel/winter road bike. Easily the best I've used in 50+ years of riding.
I have the Crud road racer mk 2 they are superb & they give full cover down to the front mech.
I use the raceblades on my favourite bike, even though it has mudguard mounts, because full mudguards are much heavier. The raceblades weigh 365g, whereas the Bontrager NCS full mudguards I have on my winter bike weigh 907g. Also, I can just remove the raceblades in seconds on one of those rare, cloudless, crisp, sunny winter days.
and this is why I love my new alu gravel bike, mud guards fit through the frame. Alex, this all could have been done better with a different bike. I give you: C- on this video. 🤣
They used the SKS Raceblade in this video if anyone wants to know that. The raceblade pro can cover up to 32mm but also 34mm in my case, because they are pretty "wide".
And there is also the long version of the race blade, that is just having more length.
Love my SKS Raceblades. The wider ones (XL) also fit my gravel bike.
Same here, although they are only 3/4 length at the rear and that does cause issues with the front derailleur cable hole through to the BB area.
There is something very nice about a gravel bike with wide mudguards 👌
Good job,Fred
omg just ordered some sks raceblades, timely video.
Get SKS Speedrockers & there’s no need for the bodge extension.
Used these for several years.
Be very careful with the front one.
After one quite bumpy ride, the top of the guard rubbed the paint off my carbon frame (in 1 ride!). The top edge of the plastic that holds the metal supports was sharp and rough and can bounce against the down tube - poor design.
Best bet is not use the front or apply frame protector on the underside of your down tube and add some protection the guard itself. I found Sugru to be perfect for this.
Agree with Alex about the rear one needing to be longer.
Maybe SKS don’t actually ride in the wet when testing their products.
Verdaderamente impresionante y dinamica
The SKS X Blade is a excellent fender and installs in seconds with just 1 clip that holds the fender securely , I just did a video of it on my channel 😊
Zip ties? Si would be pleased. 😂. Pls submit to Hack/Bodge for review. 😅
And yes, wish I'd done the tape thing. "Only" my winter bike, but have trashed the paint work. Not as bad, however, as when I tried to position the guards under my brake calipers (to avoid them getting caked in grit) and the end of guard has worn away the paint down to bare carbon where seat stays are joined. Also have had lower race of headset trashed by guard not being long enough to go underneath. I would defo consider next winter bike being steel or similar where I can fit full length mudguards!
Gran trabajo 👌
SKS Bluemels Basic 👍👍👍
Greetings
As always another brilliant detailed video 🇺🇸🎉🍾🇺🇸
Would you provide me with the link to purchase the mudguards.
Thank you so much for assisting me
@Alex you can upload your extension fix to GCN show for a massive BODGE😅
That tape is going to look pretty tatty come spring, and there'll be grit and all-purpose crud under the edges. Better get one that sticks like hell.
Also: a plastic-backed notebook is a great source of mudflap material.
A word of warning: if you have rim brakes, make sure that the rear mudguard won't go under the rear brake bridge, the tube between the seat stays. If it can and you go over a rough surface, the guard could bounce in there, be trapped, and act as a brake, stopping you very quickly. It happened to me. My ride partner, who was behind me, was not happy.
Good music, Bonobo vibes 😌
If you clean the stay with alcohol you may get better adhesion from your tape. If you really want to protect your stay, you probably want the tape to go all the way around the stay too.
My seat stays are all squiggly, so there isn't a straight and flat bit where the different brand of fenders I bought that mount like this need to be placed 🫤. It looks like the race blades might mount closer to the seat stay, which has an outwards bow to the axle but is at least a straight line looking from the side 🤔.
My other bike has rear fender mounts, but the fork tapers at the back too narrow for these types of fenders to fit securely.
Nice & Thanks :)
Any tips for good protective tape? Been looking for that for ages
Looking for this too!
Excelente 👌
Doesn't your Orca have hidden fender mounts? The 2023 model did. I wish you had shown how to adjust full coverage fenders for clearance. One of the most frustrating jobs is fitting full coverage fenders and trying to work out where they are rubbing the wheel and if you need to take a Dremel to them for frame clearance.
Linda bicicleta
Stupid question but wont the front wheel rub against the mud guard when you turn?
Espectacular
Don’t draw on your frame with a marker for Gods sake, just use a bit of masking tape to mark either end!
My tip is to forget about those clip on mudguards, buy some p-clamps and zip ties and mount regular full size mudguards on the bike. Possibly sizing down a size on the tires to fit them well.
Step 2 if you are not racing is to sell that crappy bike without mounts, and buy one made to fit fenders. Unless you are a wimp and do not ride in the rain or living in the south of spain like me you should just leave those fenders on all year long as there is no reason to remove them unless you are racing.
Before you cut down an ass-saver: Some tires, especially MTB, come with packaging made of the same material. I always keep that for things like this.
Adrinalina genial con la bicicleta
Excelente
Can you please show us how to make mud guards from pvc using a heat gun or hot sand??
Muy bueno
@gcntech Dear GCN team, l hope that you are all doing great. I hope that you can help me a little bit with a small concern of mine which is letting me ride indoors for most of the time (there is nothing wrong with that, but riding outside is more fun). My biggest issue is how we can protect our pride and joy of a bicycle against nature's elements such as mud, rain, cold? Would you recommend using specific lubricants? Would it be required to service or inspect the bicycle more frequently? Thanks 🎉
Buen dato
I miss nice clean city roads.
I'm having to fit a rear mudguard to my front wheel to keep farm traffic mud off my drive train.
I would like to see how much Watts they add
If your frame doesnt come with eyelets for mounting fenders, you can get a BOB trailer axle, and mount the stays to the mounting bolts for the bobbins. QR and thruaxle are all available. Clip on fenders are garbage.
You should always use mudgurds in winter. Or have a winter bike.😃👍
#AskGCN Dear GCN, I have the exact same mudguards. When loosening the bolts as alex did, I accidentally lost one of the nuts that sit in the recesses to kind of captivate them. I've tried looking for spares on SKS website online and can't find anything spares wise. I don't suppose with your superior knowledge and connections you'd be able to track me down a spare. Such a tiny thing doing such an important job of retaining the metal strut! Help! Thank you. Love you bye xx
Mudguards. Not bloody 'fenders'. Agreed they are the best thing for winter though.
Those race blades are not really great though, they dont come down enough either end to really protect the person behind or the drivetrain. Proper full length guards with flaps fitted front and rear are miles better.
Well you know the fellow with the mudd guards. Oh that fellow, well why didn't you say so......
Keepemcoming
Genial 👍👌
Good video. for marking lighter colored frames, use a pencil to not permanenlty mark the frame
Am I the only one who thinks drawing on ur expensive frame with sharpie is kinda crazy, like it’s one thing on a cheap black winter bike but that’s like a 8+k bike he’s drawing on with permanent marker, couldve just used painters tape 2in up the stay and measuresd when putting back on
I have these they are from Germany
Genial
Next Week on GCN: “Here’s why you don’t need mudguards”
Damn it, how did you predict that one !!!
On one hand, this is definitely a good and practical solution, but on the other bike looks quite ugly with these mudguards. And good question is what a difference in aerodynamic with installed mudguards. Understandable, that it will be worst but how worst?
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Why didn’t you just slide the mudguard further through the attachments (closer to the frame/forks), instead of bodging the extra bits with zip ties?
because i wanted the mud flap end to be as low as possible to keep my feet dry.
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Como
If you have enough money in order to have such an expensive bike you should buy a winter bike and don't ride your race bike in winter. Your winter bike should have the right bits to attach normal mud guards that don't have those gaps.
You are more likely to damage your frame in winter and the amount of filth on the road that goes on your groupset is going to lead to more wear. When it snows you don't want the salt to go on your race bike, you don't want to crash on your race bike.
If you are short of money then fine compromise.
You are not going to need all the light weight carbon fiber whilst it's February and you're cycling head on into hail stones that are hammering into your face and your jaw is so cold you can't talk properly, not the time for light weigh titanium.
Nice video #hack
What's the bet these were removed immediately after the video we all know GCN presenter's are allergic to mudguards.
How much are you willing to bet they were removed? I'm happy to go to a pretty big figure .....😂
Bodge!
Cómo
That British accent make me search for subtitles
Fender is way better!!
Winter means snow and ice, no mud
But beware! They will slow you down about 0.005%!
Biking will never be the same…..
Is aero disadvantage or the extra weight 😂
@@philipplummer5202 jeez, thank you! I forgot to calculate the effect of the extra weight! Standby! 🤫😋
I recommend buying a cheap mountain bike from decathlon 😅
Just buy a second hand winter bike with eyes easily bought £150, best money spent
Those flaps will scratch the paintwork! 😢
como
I would suggest marking your frame with masking tape rather than a sharpie
It's easy to tell front from rear guard.
The front one looks stupid.
The rear one looks equally as stupid.
It doesn't matter which order they are thrown in the bin.
Did he just mark the frame with a permanent marker!? I hoop he applied some masking tape or something before that....
Well after all that work lets see the ALL the GCN team lead by example by using mudguards on their bikes when doing videos in crap conditions. Nothing worse than getting a faceful of wet (possibly cow shit laden) mud in your face if you live in the sticks like I do!!!
who calls them fenders?
I cannot figure out why cycling channels think fenders should be linked to winter riding. There are plenty of dry winter days and plenty of wet summer days.
yes, however in autumn/winter the roads take much longer to dry
@@mb10kx Sometimes true. Drying of pavement is driven by several factors: ambient temperature, humidity, sunlight, and wind. Where I live, winter days are frequently very sunny and a bit windy, so wet pavement dries quickly. Not so much on a cloudy, humid summer day.
Where I live (in the UK) the roads have not been dry for weeks and weeks on end. Even when it doesn't rain it takes days for the roads to dry this time of year, and then you get all the overflow from fields etc. going onto the roads as well so dry roads are a luxury we wont see much of until spring.