For me I just mess with it until I'm not getting saddle sores, because there are like 1-2 positions only on every saddle where I don't get them, heh. About a week of trial and error then I'm locked in. The heel method actually works better than the measuring method for me, never had much success with the measuring method.
Stand next to your bike in socks. Find your greater trochanter, that bony part on the side of the hip. The top of the saddle needs to be in line with that bony part. Works like a charm for me
OMG what a bike 👍 and girl 🥰 I have a 2 cm distance where I don't know what the correct saddle height is.. I know what is too low and what is too high.. but in that area I don't know what the correct height is.. does anyone else have the same problem??
I've used the .883 x inseam for decades and for stem length there was the old rule of elbow to saddle and tip of fingers should brush the handlebar. Plumb bob or a simple nut on a string suspended from bottom of knee cap should hang to ball of foot sitting close to over the spindle when a crank is pointed at the 90 degree position to set toe clip or shoe clip position and seat forward/back position.
As always, Manon explains things in an easy-to-understand manner. I wish she would produce more instructional/educational videos. I use the heel method, except I set the crank arm parallel to the seat tube as opposed to 6 o'clock. I've tried other methods and feel like this gives me the best baseline.
@@gcn I'd love to see her focus on the hand position on the drops. My issue is that if I hold the drops comfortably, then I can't reach the brakes. If I position my hands to be able to access the brakes, then I'm not very comfortable.
I've always used the heel method. After looking at the video, I immediately tried the inseam measurement and tested the resulting distance on my two bikes: in both cases it fits exactly the saddle height! 🎉🍾😄
A reminder that the .883 (A.K.A. Lemond method, developed by Cyrille Guimard) has 2 steps, the inseam x .883 calculation and THEN an adjustment to offset 1. Crank length (the .883 assumes 172.5 cranks, so add or subtract for longer or shorter, e.g. 175mm = reduction of 2.5mm) and 2. Pedal stack (the .883 method assumes old school clip + strap pedals), modern pedals have less stack height so a necessary reduction is necessary (approx 3mm), if you are going to use a formula please use the whole thing...
That's what I read in a 1980s cycle training for fitness booklet. Find for Winter bike with thicker layers, subtract 1/2 cm. Also need to move saddle forward/back so front knee joint over pedal spindle with pedals horizontal.
The inseam x 1.09 method seems good because presumably it takes into account crank length. I tried this and the other two methods in this video and got almost the exact same number/height all three times 😂
Super helpful video Manon & gcn! These are always worth going over! Just helped our eldest when they were getting a new commuter bike. This is Super helpful for bike sizing too! I found with my Brooks B17 saddle on my Kona Sutra Touring Bike, I had to play a bit with the fore/after. A plumb line (or screw hanging from a thread if you don't have a plumb line) from the centre of the knee to the pedal spindle (ball of foot) really helped. Had to do it all again because we got Cirrus cylcles Kinekt Bodyfloat suspension seatposts. (First heard about them on gcn few years back). Keep this great content coming! Love it!
Helpful video. If you have a laser distance measure, you can use the book method even easier. Just set the Laser to the correct measure method (top-of-device, where the laser optics are), put it on the ridge of the book pointing down on the floor, and push the button. (If you don’t have a book long enough for this, use a spirit level.) Plus, this base number will not change (much) during your cycling life. You may have to account for different crank lengths, shoes and pedal combos, change in position and hip angles (more upright or less) and such, but legs don‘t change their length, usually. With that number, any even just semi-competent bike shop will be able to select a fitting bike frame and do the the basic adjustments for you, so your new bike will fit your needs from day one. Ride On!
For font to back seat position, i was taught that the Tibial Tuberosity (the bump on the shin bone just below the knee cap) should be directly over the pedal axle when in the front horizontal position. Dropping a plumbline is an easy way to do that.
Great video. The calculation was really helpful and confirmed my estimate was pretty on the money. Depending on crank length there will be some fine adjusting.
165 to 175 cranks is a big difference. So the .883 is just a starting point. The 1.09 method is better, but still a starting point. Ride and see how it feels.
Put a few turns of electrical tape around the seat post. Any subsequent crinkling will indicate something isn’t tight enough. Once everything is dialled in, paint witness marks on the post and collar.
That is a great little tip there! Another product is to use the bracket of a reflector. Tighten it in place, push it down as far as it will go on the seatpost/seatclamp interface and you are in the knowledge that if you remove your seatpost, you have the exact height again when it comes to reinstalling!
When you get older and you have slipped disk it’s tricky to find numb free position. Everyone who have a healthy spine can be happy. Others might have better days and worst days.
@@JonCannings it’s not bad anymore. Sure it leaves bit of symptoms what it means if i ride with my roadbike vibrations from the road can cause bit of numbness. That doesn’t happen when i do indoor training. First time it gave bit of sciatica kind of issues but those days are over. I’m pretty fine now thx.
Weight distribution fore and aft is a good check on saddle position. Should be about 40% on the front wheel. Don't overlook stem length. A stem that's too short or too long has a tendency to move your point of contact with the saddle.
Have used the 1.09 method for 30 years of injury free riding. Plumb bob from the knee to the ball of the foot and pedal spindle sets the forward/back position.
With my fore foot in the peddle, I adjust the height Just to the point where my knee can adopt 2 positions easily i.e. fore and aft with out any tension forcing it back to straight. For a quick adjust and go, I use the heel + 1/2cm method. I found this latter method in one of Lance Armstrongs books. Im of the opinion you should always have a slightly forward tilt on the saddle since your hands will alway impart a little force backwards.
I wish bike geometry was better. All the websites say I should be a 54 medium (I'm 5'9"). I went to a bike shop to try a Specialized Allez and the 52 small (5'4" to 5'7") fit me perfectly. Without checking I would never have thought a bike "meant" for someone 5" shorter than me would fit. For reference I also tried a Trek and a Giant and I found the small fitted me best as well.
In addition to my other post, it’s important to mention that crank arm length is just as critical as seat height. If you set your seat height to where it should be at the bottom of the pedal stroke, it’s very possible if you’re a short leg person on a bike with too long of cranks, that you’ll have an issue with the pedal bringing your leg up too high into your gut or putting your leg at a mechanical disadvantage at the top of the stroke, maybe making your knee kick out to the side. So if you’re 5’7’ or shorter, you’ll likely benefit from cranks 170mm or shorter, and if you’re shorter than 5’6, you definitely want to consider 165mm arms.
Years of experimentation and I've landed on 70cm exactly from the tip of the saddle to the middle of the crankshaft, and then I adapt it from there depending on the bike.
3:46 I'm curious as to why the 0.883 factor is used nowadays. When I was first getting into cycling in the late 80s the received wisdom was to use 1.09 x inseam *but* this was the saddle - pedal axle measurement. I used this for years but tend to settle for the 'heel' method now (caveat: I've never ridden competitively). The modern method neglects the crankarm length which, it seems, would result in a slightly higher saddle (when compared with the 1.09 method) if you have short legs and a comparatively lower saddle for long-legged riders*. Still, I guess if it works that's fine! *because crankarm lengths vary less than rider height, so when you add that back onto the 0.883 x inseam measurement a 165 crank will be proportionally longer on a short rider than a 180mm crank would be to a tall rider...
I haven't felt the need to adjust my seat height for ages, i hit the wall sits reasonably hard this week and felt i needed to raise it by a couple of mm.
I use the heel method. Than after admiring how cool my bike looks with a high saddle I go for a ride, and lower it by 1cm. I also know that if I stand over the top tube the nose of the saddle touching around my coccyx I’m almost right.
I think you can compensate for a low saddle but a high saddle may be a problem whose only solution is to be lowered. I have some bikes with a lower saddle and some with a higher one and I find it beneficial to ride in multiple positions. Lower saddle will give the knee joints more stress I find
Even when I think to have set my saddle at the perfect height, a couple of days later, it might feel a bit low or a bit high. This puzzled me. I am talking about not more than 2 or three millimeters, like a tenth of an inch. My explanation is that by running and cycling, and trainng at different paces, the state of my legs varies a bit, so maybe sometimes my legs prefer to be bent just a bt more or less, or I use my calves a bit more, anyway it varies and I think that is because the state of my legs varies.
@@mariolignini1512 no, I just find more power and pedalling efficiency when I lowered my saddle 1cm when I got the initial measurement with the book, tape measure and formula
I alwas struggled with perfect saddle height but turns out it was a crank length issue. Im 172cm and i used ro ride 170mm cranks and 167.5 now im on 160mm and its no longer an issue no need to perfect the saddle height as now its more forgiving. Its too bad iys wo expensive to play around with crank lengths.
Good video but there's a couple of issues with the methods shown. The first method doesn't take into account the stack height. This can vary nearly 10mm between the different types of pedals/cleats. It also is kinda assuming that you are riding in road bike shoes which have essentially no depth between your heel and the shoe heel. Mountain bike shoes can easily have 15-20mm of heel that road bike shoes don't. The second method doesn't allow for variations in crank length. With crank ranges between 160 and 180mm there is a 20mm range that isn't accounted for. The inseam measurement method should be used and scaled to suit the pedal position at 6 o'clock rather than the centre of the BB.
I learnt elsewhere that, in order to calculate saddle height via the LeMond method (inseam x 0,883), one has to measure the inseam while standing barefoot, which doesn't sound very logical to me. Any thoughts on that?
Carbon paste for a carbon seat post and grease for a metal-on-metal set up is very helpful, especially for a bike that stays outside, like a commuter bike. Apply it to the seat post to prevent corrosion. Carbon paste will also prevent a seat post from slipping when the collar is tightened to the right spec.
It is very important to always ride with the appropriate hex key (e.g. 5mm). Because once you make an adjustment, very often the retaining bolt(s) will work loose (both on the saddle rail and the seat post clamp) because the body weight and movement causes the hardware to flex, and one should not over-tighten them the first time, especially with carbon fibre parts. Check the bolts after 15, 30, 60 and 120 minutes of riding. If you re-tighten once, typically it will not need to be re-tightened again. Thread locker can also be used once the right saddle height has been confirmed.
Yup your 2 methods are what I use to start from. The 88% rule of thumb has been in use for the 55 years that I have known about it. Ladies tend to spin more and keep their heels higher than men in my observations. Reach is where things get trickier. :) Keep riding, have fun.
Saddly none of those methods worked for me I.e 0.883 method was 2.5 cm too low. Heal method was 2 cm too low and I was having neck and shoulder pain. Best bet for me was professional bike fitting. It was really good investment into my comfort.
It’s hard to see what’s important in a video. It’s not as easy as it should be. If the persons got good body awareness, they’ll be able to tell when it’s close to right when it’s a little off, but not when it’s way off usually. So it’s important to get it close first. That said, most people have their seat to high, including those set from using motion tracking software. This is under pedaling load. So the important thing you’re looking for at full leg extension, or straightness, you want a smooth full extension moment, if the person has full control over that movement their height is either right or too low. When the extension is too much and you have a knee “flicker” as it extends back, if the knee angle gets too straight to where the quad overpowers the hamstring, then the seat is too high. That said, it’s better to start off too low than too high. When it’s too high, you will have body asymmetry compensation (one leg shorter, hip differences etc), but if it’s low, there won’t be body compensation. So my suggestion is, do the heel technique shown in the video, but from that measurement, lower the seat 15-20 mm, and start from there. Ride on a trainer or road for 20 mi, then every 3-4 minutes raise the seat 3mm. If you have decent body awareness of what your legs are doing, you get to a point where you feel you’re not in full control of your knees at the bottom of the stroke, usually just one. As soon as you feel that asymmetry difference, you want to lower the seat back down 2-3mm, and ride at that height for a while.
Hmm. I did not use any of the methods in the video. The method I use is go and test riding the bike. When the pedal is at the lowest 6 o'clock position, the leg should not be 100% fully extended, but somewhere at 90 - 95%.
Your saddle is at least one inch to low imo and toe clips don't alow your clip to be far enough forward. Your knee should be at less of a angle to max your power at the start of your stroke. I have been to so many bike mechanics that say the heal method is the best. But really only if you want to tire out fast and have 12 inch thick thighs
The INSEAM x 0.883 method is empirical and dates from the 1980s. It does not take into account the cranks lenght , the position of the cleats, the thickness of the soles or the pedals, the arch of the shoes, etc.... By applying it as is, there is a strong chance that you will be sitting too high.
Mark your seat post , your position might need to change during a season, you might get stronger and more flexible , your shoes will get softer Newton third law
Other stuff that can mess up your saddle fit: Riding with different shoes than the ones you set up the pedals with Riding with shorts that have more/less padding than the initial ones Changing pedals Changing the saddle (duh)
It's an empirical factor that Greg LeMond and his coach came up with about 40 years ago. It sounds very precise, at three significant figures, but in practice it's best to think of it as the mean of a distribution - the optimum saddle height for you may be a little higher or lower than the formula suggests.
Heel method doesn't work, the saddle will be too low. The only way is to keep raising it until you can't reach anymore then lower by 3mm or 5mm. When setup at the best height it will feel like you're jogging on the bike.
What is your method for finding the correct saddle height? Let us know 👇
By watching the 10th GCN video on how to set saddle height.
For me I just mess with it until I'm not getting saddle sores, because there are like 1-2 positions only on every saddle where I don't get them, heh. About a week of trial and error then I'm locked in. The heel method actually works better than the measuring method for me, never had much success with the measuring method.
I use the heel method, seems to work OK...
Stand next to your bike in socks. Find your greater trochanter, that bony part on the side of the hip. The top of the saddle needs to be in line with that bony part. Works like a charm for me
OMG what a bike 👍
and girl 🥰
I have a 2 cm distance where I don't know what the correct saddle height is.. I know what is too low and what is too high.. but in that area I don't know what the correct height is.. does anyone else have the same problem??
I've used the .883 x inseam for decades and for stem length there was the old rule of elbow to saddle and tip of fingers should brush the handlebar. Plumb bob or a simple nut on a string suspended from bottom of knee cap should hang to ball of foot sitting close to over the spindle when a crank is pointed at the 90 degree position to set toe clip or shoe clip position and seat forward/back position.
damn
And just like that, figured out today how bike fitters actually do it!
Wow great post
Thank you for this
My saddle height is 40mm higher than the 0-883 method - and I can rest my heel on the pedal.
I'm a simple man, I see Manon on the thumbnail and click to learn about anything.
As always, Manon explains things in an easy-to-understand manner. I wish she would produce more instructional/educational videos. I use the heel method, except I set the crank arm parallel to the seat tube as opposed to 6 o'clock. I've tried other methods and feel like this gives me the best baseline.
Always a pleasure to film with Manon! Are there any other subjects we should cover?
@@gcn I'd love to see her focus on the hand position on the drops. My issue is that if I hold the drops comfortably, then I can't reach the brakes. If I position my hands to be able to access the brakes, then I'm not very comfortable.
I've always used the heel method. After looking at the video, I immediately tried the inseam measurement and tested the resulting distance on my two bikes: in both cases it fits exactly the saddle height! 🎉🍾😄
Yay! Always cool to know you are doing the right thing 🙌
A reminder that the .883 (A.K.A. Lemond method, developed by Cyrille Guimard) has 2 steps, the inseam x .883 calculation and THEN an adjustment to offset 1. Crank length (the .883 assumes 172.5 cranks, so add or subtract for longer or shorter, e.g. 175mm = reduction of 2.5mm) and 2. Pedal stack (the .883 method assumes old school clip + strap pedals), modern pedals have less stack height so a necessary reduction is necessary (approx 3mm), if you are going to use a formula please use the whole thing...
I like how you explain everything. Im a beginner, only ride a road bike since februari 24. This really helps! Video added to favorites😊
We're here to help all cyclists! Thanks for the comment.
Welcome to the wonderful world of cycling 🙌
Well, almost everything:
Step 1: Make sure you haven't forgotten to install a saddle
Very educational and well explained, will definitely use this.
I use the inseam times 1.09 method and I measure from the pedal axel. It works for me 😊
That's what I read in a 1980s cycle training for fitness booklet.
Find for Winter bike with thicker layers, subtract 1/2 cm.
Also need to move saddle forward/back so front knee joint over pedal spindle with pedals horizontal.
The inseam x 1.09 method seems good because presumably it takes into account crank length. I tried this and the other two methods in this video and got almost the exact same number/height all three times 😂
Great video, thanks Manon!
Great informative video, thanks Manon 👏🏻
You're welcome 🙌
Super helpful video Manon & gcn! These are always worth going over! Just helped our eldest when they were getting a new commuter bike. This is Super helpful for bike sizing too! I found with my Brooks B17 saddle on my Kona Sutra Touring Bike, I had to play a bit with the fore/after. A plumb line (or screw hanging from a thread if you don't have a plumb line) from the centre of the knee to the pedal spindle (ball of foot) really helped. Had to do it all again because we got Cirrus cylcles Kinekt Bodyfloat suspension seatposts. (First heard about them on gcn few years back). Keep this great content coming! Love it!
Great to hear you've found a way to get comfy 🙌
Thank you Manon.
I'm a simple man. I see Manon, I hit like & comment!
Luckily the instructions in the video aren't too tough 😉
Good video Manon. 😃👍
Helpful video. If you have a laser distance measure, you can use the book method even easier. Just set the Laser to the correct measure method (top-of-device, where the laser optics are), put it on the ridge of the book pointing down on the floor, and push the button. (If you don’t have a book long enough for this, use a spirit level.)
Plus, this base number will not change (much) during your cycling life. You may have to account for different crank lengths, shoes and pedal combos, change in position and hip angles (more upright or less) and such, but legs don‘t change their length, usually. With that number, any even just semi-competent bike shop will be able to select a fitting bike frame and do the the basic adjustments for you, so your new bike will fit your needs from day one.
Ride On!
For font to back seat position, i was taught that the Tibial Tuberosity (the bump on the shin bone just below the knee cap) should be directly over the pedal axle when in the front horizontal position. Dropping a plumbline is an easy way to do that.
Thanks for the tips!
You're welcome! Now go out and hit it 🙌
Great video. The calculation was really helpful and confirmed my estimate was pretty on the money. Depending on crank length there will be some fine adjusting.
165 to 175 cranks is a big difference. So the .883 is just a starting point. The 1.09 method is better, but still a starting point. Ride and see how it feels.
Awesome & Thanks :)
Ótimas dicas
Interesting tips
And very timely. I have come to the conclusion my saddle is not quite the way it should be. I will try this. Cheers
Very good!! Thank you 😉
Our pleasure!
Put a few turns of electrical tape around the seat post. Any subsequent crinkling will indicate something isn’t tight enough.
Once everything is dialled in, paint witness marks on the post and collar.
That is a great little tip there! Another product is to use the bracket of a reflector. Tighten it in place, push it down as far as it will go on the seatpost/seatclamp interface and you are in the knowledge that if you remove your seatpost, you have the exact height again when it comes to reinstalling!
I also keep a pic on my phone of the gradations on the seat post for reference, especially while fine tuning on the road after initial adjustment.
The book method works ! Thank you
You're welcome!
When you get older and you have slipped disk it’s tricky to find numb free position. Everyone who have a healthy spine can be happy. Others might have better days and worst days.
Hope you're ok, sounds painful
@@JonCannings it’s not bad anymore. Sure it leaves bit of symptoms what it means if i ride with my roadbike vibrations from the road can cause bit of numbness. That doesn’t happen when i do indoor training. First time it gave bit of sciatica kind of issues but those days are over. I’m pretty fine now thx.
Weight distribution fore and aft is a good check on saddle position. Should be about 40% on the front wheel. Don't overlook stem length. A stem that's too short or too long has a tendency to move your point of contact with the saddle.
Have used the 1.09 method for 30 years of injury free riding. Plumb bob from the knee to the ball of the foot and pedal spindle sets the forward/back position.
The Badger’s method was to raise the saddle height by increments until your hips rock, then take the saddle back down the last increment.
With my fore foot in the peddle, I adjust the height Just to the point where my knee can adopt 2 positions easily i.e. fore and aft with out any tension forcing it back to straight. For a quick adjust and go, I use the heel + 1/2cm method. I found this latter method in one of Lance Armstrongs books.
Im of the opinion you should always have a slightly forward tilt on the saddle since your hands will alway impart a little force backwards.
22,222 views and 1.1k likes is as satisfying to my OCD as it is a crime against how good this video is
#TeamManon
You know what to do! Like, share, comment! Tell you Nan, tell your cat!
Great advice as I'm setting the hight on my fiance new bike today
I wish bike geometry was better. All the websites say I should be a 54 medium (I'm 5'9"). I went to a bike shop to try a Specialized Allez and the 52 small (5'4" to 5'7") fit me perfectly. Without checking I would never have thought a bike "meant" for someone 5" shorter than me would fit. For reference I also tried a Trek and a Giant and I found the small fitted me best as well.
In addition to my other post, it’s important to mention that crank arm length is just as critical as seat height. If you set your seat height to where it should be at the bottom of the pedal stroke, it’s very possible if you’re a short leg person on a bike with too long of cranks, that you’ll have an issue with the pedal bringing your leg up too high into your gut or putting your leg at a mechanical disadvantage at the top of the stroke, maybe making your knee kick out to the side. So if you’re 5’7’ or shorter, you’ll likely benefit from cranks 170mm or shorter, and if you’re shorter than 5’6, you definitely want to consider 165mm arms.
Years of experimentation and I've landed on 70cm exactly from the tip of the saddle to the middle of the crankshaft, and then I adapt it from there depending on the bike.
nice! that helps it is a round number too!
3:46 I'm curious as to why the 0.883 factor is used nowadays. When I was first getting into cycling in the late 80s the received wisdom was to use 1.09 x inseam *but* this was the saddle - pedal axle measurement. I used this for years but tend to settle for the 'heel' method now (caveat: I've never ridden competitively).
The modern method neglects the crankarm length which, it seems, would result in a slightly higher saddle (when compared with the 1.09 method) if you have short legs and a comparatively lower saddle for long-legged riders*. Still, I guess if it works that's fine!
*because crankarm lengths vary less than rider height, so when you add that back onto the 0.883 x inseam measurement a 165 crank will be proportionally longer on a short rider than a 180mm crank would be to a tall rider...
Whats the crank position when measuring pedal axle?
@@hurriedlemon8146 In line with the seat tube (pedal low not high obvs). I instinctively prefer this way because it accounts for crank length too.
It was the measurement from trial and error plus the factor from professionals in several old bike maintenance or repair books from decades ago.
I haven't felt the need to adjust my seat height for ages, i hit the wall sits reasonably hard this week and felt i needed to raise it by a couple of mm.
Thanks for the saddle height set up tips,hair looks great.💯👌🏻💪🏻🚴♂️
Alternatively, to check if you're sat correctly, look at how rock-solid Manon looks around the 6:00 mark. Makes me wanna get on my bike right now.
I use the heel method. Than after admiring how cool my bike looks with a high saddle I go for a ride, and lower it by 1cm. I also know that if I stand over the top tube the nose of the saddle touching around my coccyx I’m almost right.
I think you can compensate for a low saddle but a high saddle may be a problem whose only solution is to be lowered. I have some bikes with a lower saddle and some with a higher one and I find it beneficial to ride in multiple positions. Lower saddle will give the knee joints more stress I find
Can you please explain how you can take your inseam *0,883 ?
It dosnt take the crank arm length in regard?
I've got two road bikes, one was a few cm too low & the other one was a few too high. 👍🏻
Even when I think to have set my saddle at the perfect height, a couple of days later, it might feel a bit low or a bit high. This puzzled me. I am talking about not more than 2 or three millimeters, like a tenth of an inch. My explanation is that by running and cycling, and trainng at different paces, the state of my legs varies a bit, so maybe sometimes my legs prefer to be bent just a bt more or less, or I use my calves a bit more, anyway it varies and I think that is because the state of my legs varies.
I would say, the heel method is fine with me. But I have one shorter leg, so could be best to check both.
Some of us have used the heel method for 30+ years!
it it aint broken, dont try to fix it!
3:52 - I did the formula but I found comfort when I reduced 1cm of the measurement.
thicker book needed?!
@@mariolignini1512 no, I just find more power and pedalling efficiency when I lowered my saddle 1cm when I got the initial measurement with the book, tape measure and formula
I alwas struggled with perfect saddle height but turns out it was a crank length issue. Im 172cm and i used ro ride 170mm cranks and 167.5 now im on 160mm and its no longer an issue no need to perfect the saddle height as now its more forgiving. Its too bad iys wo expensive to play around with crank lengths.
Good video but there's a couple of issues with the methods shown. The first method doesn't take into account the stack height. This can vary nearly 10mm between the different types of pedals/cleats. It also is kinda assuming that you are riding in road bike shoes which have essentially no depth between your heel and the shoe heel. Mountain bike shoes can easily have 15-20mm of heel that road bike shoes don't. The second method doesn't allow for variations in crank length. With crank ranges between 160 and 180mm there is a 20mm range that isn't accounted for. The inseam measurement method should be used and scaled to suit the pedal position at 6 o'clock rather than the centre of the BB.
I learnt elsewhere that, in order to calculate saddle height via the LeMond method (inseam x 0,883), one has to measure the inseam while standing barefoot, which doesn't sound very logical to me. Any thoughts on that?
@gcn Does the inseam x 0,883 method works for all heights? Does it work for Conor? Whats his inseam and saddle height? Thanks for the video.
and how does it work with different crank arm´s lenth´s.?
What’s the reason to calculate yy x 0,883? Where’s the 0,883 coming from? Thank you ❤
The bike shop messed up my saddle height. I spent one-day readjusting it.
Carbon paste for a carbon seat post and grease for a metal-on-metal set up is very helpful, especially for a bike that stays outside, like a commuter bike. Apply it to the seat post to prevent corrosion. Carbon paste will also prevent a seat post from slipping when the collar is tightened to the right spec.
the .883 method is called the Greg Lemond method and he apparently rode 175 cranks.
So maybe it'll end up a bit on the low side for shorter riders?
It is very important to always ride with the appropriate hex key (e.g. 5mm). Because once you make an adjustment, very often the retaining bolt(s) will work loose (both on the saddle rail and the seat post clamp) because the body weight and movement causes the hardware to flex, and one should not over-tighten them the first time, especially with carbon fibre parts.
Check the bolts after 15, 30, 60 and 120 minutes of riding. If you re-tighten once, typically it will not need to be re-tightened again. Thread locker can also be used once the right saddle height has been confirmed.
Great tips. Plus, once comfortable and happy with the position . Make a note of the measurements 👍
Looking radiant Manon ! Thank you for the great Video!
Bruh how many videos does gcn have in adjusting saddle heights lol
Baby😍😍
My saddle was so high once it hit in my groin 😅
Yup your 2 methods are what I use to start from. The 88% rule of thumb has been in use for the 55 years that I have known about it. Ladies tend to spin more and keep their heels higher than men in my observations. Reach is where things get trickier. :) Keep riding, have fun.
Does it work in inches?
Saddly none of those methods worked for me I.e 0.883 method was 2.5 cm too low. Heal method was 2 cm too low and I was having neck and shoulder pain. Best bet for me was professional bike fitting. It was really good investment into my comfort.
It’s hard to see what’s important in a video. It’s not as easy as it should be. If the persons got good body awareness, they’ll be able to tell when it’s close to right when it’s a little off, but not when it’s way off usually. So it’s important to get it close first. That said, most people have their seat to high, including those set from using motion tracking software. This is under pedaling load. So the important thing you’re looking for at full leg extension, or straightness, you want a smooth full extension moment, if the person has full control over that movement their height is either right or too low. When the extension is too much and you have a knee “flicker” as it extends back, if the knee angle gets too straight to where the quad overpowers the hamstring, then the seat is too high. That said, it’s better to start off too low than too high. When it’s too high, you will have body asymmetry compensation (one leg shorter, hip differences etc), but if it’s low, there won’t be body compensation. So my suggestion is, do the heel technique shown in the video, but from that measurement, lower the seat 15-20 mm, and start from there. Ride on a trainer or road for 20 mi, then every 3-4 minutes raise the seat 3mm. If you have decent body awareness of what your legs are doing, you get to a point where you feel you’re not in full control of your knees at the bottom of the stroke, usually just one. As soon as you feel that asymmetry difference, you want to lower the seat back down 2-3mm, and ride at that height for a while.
Hmm. I did not use any of the methods in the video. The method I use is go and test riding the bike. When the pedal is at the lowest 6 o'clock position, the leg should not be 100% fully extended, but somewhere at 90 - 95%.
bicycle seat n saddle ride
Manon
The .883 method does not take crank length into account.
The video shows her heel touching the pedal, but then she goes onto say your heel "should just about touch the pedal" which one is it?
Your saddle is at least one inch to low imo and toe clips don't alow your clip to be far enough forward. Your knee should be at less of a angle to max your power at the start of your stroke. I have been to so many bike mechanics that say the heal method is the best. But really only if you want to tire out fast and have 12 inch thick thighs
The INSEAM x 0.883 method is empirical and dates from the 1980s. It does not take into account the cranks lenght , the position of the cleats, the thickness of the soles or the pedals, the arch of the shoes, etc.... By applying it as is, there is a strong chance that you will be sitting too high.
hi, thanks for the comment! There is always likely to be a touch of refinement, but to get you into a good "ballpark" it does the job 👍
As a rough guide, just line up the seat with the top of your hip.
Allen key or torque wrench?
Torque wrench to be safe!
Torque wrench, especially with carbon frames.
@@im-on-youtube Torx is the shape of the bolt head. Torque is a measurement device.
Mark your seat post , your position might need to change during a season, you might get stronger and more flexible , your shoes will get softer Newton third law
Other stuff that can mess up your saddle fit:
Riding with different shoes than the ones you set up the pedals with
Riding with shorts that have more/less padding than the initial ones
Changing pedals
Changing the saddle (duh)
good tips there!
So what is the .883?
It's an empirical factor that Greg LeMond and his coach came up with about 40 years ago. It sounds very precise, at three significant figures, but in practice it's best to think of it as the mean of a distribution - the optimum saddle height for you may be a little higher or lower than the formula suggests.
Manon rocks. That is all.
Cheers
why 0.883？for result 66?
ah, its just an old methodology!
First Method is more accurate, Second methode not accurate due to the different length of crank arm. Thanks
Hi pretty girl, may I know what is your height? 5 foot 8?
Heel method doesn't work, the saddle will be too low. The only way is to keep raising it until you can't reach anymore then lower by 3mm or 5mm. When setup at the best height it will feel like you're jogging on the bike.
❤❤❤
The inseam method you show is wrong. You must pull up the book like you sit on the saddle, otherwise the numbers is wrong.
If my measuring tape here in the States has inches, do I still multiply by 0.883?
Yes, and the result will be in inches
@@sergyum Thanks for the info. Good to know.
Damnnn.... Manon. 😊😊
Manon the best 👍
Great video Manon thank you, but dirty shoes...
Surely @4:30 this is not how your feet usually sit? You look like a ballerina.
Black socks Manon ! WTF.
變胖了 XD
Don t forget Newton third law
who's she
My method is adjusting it until I don’t fall on my butt.
if that works for you!
Thank you for the video btw! This video helped me realize that my saddle was pointed up too high.
2:56 Errrrrr, that's not a flat wall.
Is Manon pregnant?
Manon has always had lots of baby fat
Another Manon video I wont watch...there are already 1000 videos on this topic.
And there are already 1000's of comments on all those video's combined. Yet you chose to leave yours....
@eagerbob you are right I just unsubcribed to this channel. Enjoy the videos.
after zone 2 training manon got so cute and beautiful.
"Go the professional route and get a bikefit" is a disgusting statement, bikefits are snake oil.
Do I have to consider how big my warrior balls are when measuring my inseam?
Only if you’re going to sit on them