I am old time wood working trying my hand at guitars. I have watched a lot of guitar builders on youtube and I have to say, I really enjoy your style. Really learning a lot, thank you.
Thank you so much for all your videos, sir. I have a deep appreciation for others passing down knowledge, and the art of being a luthier is a skill as old as time. Thank you 🙏
Great idea, this solves a lot of issues like correct neck profile and allows one to carve the heel correct. You are a great inspiration and thank you for passing on this wisdom.
I think it's a brilliant solution for accuracy and repeatability Kevin. Like any jig, make it accurately and it's pretty much a tool for life? I've never seen a jig to do this job in this way (although maybe they're out there?) but the solution to a problem and the development of something that makes the job easier and more dependable gets my vote every time! Thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍🏼👍🏼
Cool. If I were to make it, I think I would make half of the jig and then use the bearing bit to copy it, then glue the two pieces together. This is the same way that I make the patterns for my semetrical head stocks.
I really like your suggestion for making this jig. It is a concept I have used before, making headpiece templates. Your approach would be a superior method of fabrication, easier and more accurate. Thanks for contributing:)
This jig was one of many in my guitar making class. In total, I designed and built just over 250 jigs, patterns, templates and assembly aids for my students. I taught the course for twelve years and in that time, the students made nearly three hundred guitars. It was the best twelve years of my career.
I do something similar but a flat template about 6" square that screws onto the end of the tenon, put it in a vise and run a hand held router with pattern bit over it. I'm not fussy about the top of the heel at this stage because it gets routed to match the fretboard later.
FYI They make segmented patterning bits for shapers now. Kind of like the Shelix blades for jointers. Probably a smoother cut and a little safer. Cant be cheap though!
Most of the bits you speak of run on a 1/2" shank; a glorified router bit, but they can be had for under $200.00. As router bits get taller, they are more prone to runout and vibration and the inherent inaccuracy that goes with that. Helical cutters that are made to fit over a shaper spindle run true and are stable for sue, but come at a cost of $300.00 and up.
nice wood again!....you could use this concept on any shaped heel too!....love your work Kevin...by the way i found a jet shaper cheaper than the price of the collets i was looking for!!!...so i could run 2 shapers one in reverse with the cutter upside down and i wouldnt have a problem with the grain orientation!!
I use a cnc router for a lot of it, but there are no end of the jigs....my wife instructed me to build some shelves up out of the way for such.....she was right...she's always right.....oh jeesis here she comes.....
I made something like that with a vertical piece to hold the neck in place, and a piece of spruce that went into the truss rod slot to keep it aligned. It was pre-mortise in my build process, so I didn't have to worry about routing a slot for the mortise to fit into. However, it wasn't stable enough for my liking -- I held it in place with cam clamps up the vertical piece. I didn't think of extending the nose and adding a toggle clamp -- I'll think about trying that. Thanks for the video!
You're entirely welcome. I believe that improvement to my design is warranted and worth pursuing. I hope you can build an improved version. Thank you for watching.
New builder here on my 2nd guitar. I went with a butt joint on the 1st but decided to start trying dovetail using the LMI jig on the 2nd. Nothing but headaches but with much fussing and fixing I have it close. Now the fingerboard overhang is causing a gap (from the radius) that no amount of flossing the heel shoulders seems to be removing. Any tricks? I’m starting to sand the sound board to accept the fingerboard but don’t know if that’s the way to go.
I've been doing woodwork since the 60's. I still have all appendages, never been bit by a machine, knock on wood. I'm still afraid of everything in the shop every time I turn it on. I think that has helped.
I am old time wood working trying my hand at guitars. I have watched a lot of guitar builders on youtube and I have to say, I really enjoy your style. Really learning a lot, thank you.
Thank you! I wish you success and enjoyment with your building.
Thank you so much for all your videos, sir. I have a deep appreciation for others passing down knowledge, and the art of being a luthier is a skill as old as time. Thank you 🙏
Great idea, this solves a lot of issues like correct neck profile and allows one to carve the heel correct. You are a great inspiration and thank you for passing on this wisdom.
I think it's a brilliant solution for accuracy and repeatability Kevin. Like any jig, make it accurately and it's pretty much a tool for life? I've never seen a jig to do this job in this way (although maybe they're out there?) but the solution to a problem and the development of something that makes the job easier and more dependable gets my vote every time! Thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍🏼👍🏼
Cool. If I were to make it, I think I would make half of the jig and then use the bearing bit to copy it, then glue the two pieces together. This is the same way that I make the patterns for my semetrical head stocks.
I made a mess of a couple off headstocks before I decided to do the same.
I really like your suggestion for making this jig. It is a concept I have used before, making headpiece templates. Your approach would be a superior method of fabrication, easier and more accurate. Thanks for contributing:)
Very interesting jig, Kevin. I can see how this would be invaluable for teaching a first-time builders' class, high school or not. Thanks for sharing.
This jig was one of many in my guitar making class. In total, I designed and built just over 250 jigs, patterns, templates and assembly aids for my students. I taught the course for twelve years and in that time, the students made nearly three hundred guitars. It was the best twelve years of my career.
That is a really cool jig.
I do something similar but a flat template about 6" square that screws onto the end of the tenon, put it in a vise and run a hand held router with pattern bit over it.
I'm not fussy about the top of the heel at this stage because it gets routed to match the fretboard later.
Very clever jig. I like it.
Thanks. Nice jig. I’m going to make one.
FYI They make segmented patterning bits for shapers now. Kind of like the Shelix blades for jointers. Probably a smoother cut and a little safer. Cant be cheap though!
Most of the bits you speak of run on a 1/2" shank; a glorified router bit, but they can be had for under $200.00. As router bits get taller, they are more prone to runout and vibration and the inherent inaccuracy that goes with that. Helical cutters that are made to fit over a shaper spindle run true and are stable for sue, but come at a cost of $300.00 and up.
nice wood again!....you could use this concept on any shaped heel too!....love your work Kevin...by the way i found a jet shaper cheaper than the price of the collets i was looking for!!!...so i could run 2 shapers one in reverse with the cutter upside down and i wouldnt have a problem with the grain orientation!!
That's terrific! So glad you found a solution.
I use a cnc router for a lot of it, but there are no end of the jigs....my wife instructed me to build some shelves up out of the way for such.....she was right...she's always right.....oh jeesis here she comes.....
Look forward to a video on how to acquire tools and equipment without your wife objecting.:)
I made something like that with a vertical piece to hold the neck in place, and a piece of spruce that went into the truss rod slot to keep it aligned. It was pre-mortise in my build process, so I didn't have to worry about routing a slot for the mortise to fit into. However, it wasn't stable enough for my liking -- I held it in place with cam clamps up the vertical piece. I didn't think of extending the nose and adding a toggle clamp -- I'll think about trying that. Thanks for the video!
Cool!!!
Thanks:)
Hi Kevin. Perfect, that's the jig I've been looking for. Thank you
You're entirely welcome. I believe that improvement to my design is warranted and worth pursuing. I hope you can build an improved version. Thank you for watching.
New builder here on my 2nd guitar. I went with a butt joint on the 1st but decided to start trying dovetail using the LMI jig on the 2nd. Nothing but headaches but with much fussing and fixing I have it close. Now the fingerboard overhang is causing a gap (from the radius) that no amount of flossing the heel shoulders seems to be removing. Any tricks? I’m starting to sand the sound board to accept the fingerboard but don’t know if that’s the way to go.
Very similar to Pete Howlett’s method
👍 👍🙂
Thumbs up!!
Nice jigger y watch the fingers though! eeowwser!
I've been doing woodwork since the 60's. I still have all appendages, never been bit by a machine, knock on wood. I'm still afraid of everything in the shop every time I turn it on. I think that has helped.
"The auld Triangle (NY) goes jingle, jangle ..."
Is that getting a little over done?