Yes it is! Very nice gift, I really appreciate things like that. Means the world to me. MIP drivers are the best in my opinion. Can’t go wrong with them.
Awesome video but your 3 days late :) . While changing a broken servo arm broke 3 so far. I normally orient so if I drop a screw it will not fall into the motor. I didn't do that last time and the screw dropped into the motor. So I had to take the motor off and I couldn't find the screw. My 65 years eyes failed. Ordered replacement parts and a new motor. My 16 yo old son found and retrieved the screw. So I have a motor in reserve. He flies the M2 so much better than I do but I'm not giving up. Got it back together Wednesday working like new. Thank you so much for all of your videos and I learn so much from every one of them. Sorry for being long winded. Tamed down your code just a bit and it's working beautifully. Thanks again!! Leland
Sorry my video was late lol there will be plenty more coming out in the coming days of different repairs to the M2 head repair swashplate tail boom and tail motor wires so on. I am glad my videos are useful and that you find them useful that is my whole goal. It always sucks when you drop a screw into the motor and have to disassemble the entire thing! Glad the file works great for you, I’m sure you had to tame it down I have it set pretty sensitive! Lol thanks for watching!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 I’ve always been kind of intimidated with changing tail booms and having to zip tie wires, etc. I haven’t looked yet but do you have a video where you change the blade grips and feathering shaft?. My fix anything buddy is such a perfectionist. He always wants to do everything himself but then I’ll never learn myself. It’s like drop it off and come and get it when it’s ready. He seems to get more enjoyment from watching me test it after he’s fixed it. Everything changed for me since I met him though. I was at the point of selling a bunch of them because I was frustrated. Rather than take advantage of me and get the helis for next to nothing he suggested I bring them over. He literally saved four OMP M2, three Eachine 150’s (not in league with OMP with Phillips screws etc but a pretty decent heli with way more power than I can hope to use at this point). Even the Blade 150 FX 😉which he said to please never break again. He fashioned broken switches for radios until the switch could be ordered. Anyway, thanks for showing the repair and I look forward to seeing others so that I might gain a degree of independence. The logos are fantastic as well.
Good idea adding the collar first. I managed to almost separate the motor pushing the new shaft down too far and it causes issues with play and vibrations.
That’s the way I figured would be the best to stop you from pushing the shaft too far and that reason. And I also like to just not push it all the way down just enough to where the screw will finish pulling it so I know it’s flush and inserted properly.
I know I'm a bit late to the video, but I recently crashed my m2, but tell me why my main shaft was STIFF to get out and almost a hard with the new one going in. Not sure if the frame tweaked or the center bar support is bent too. Getting my new swash plate on Wednesday and we'll see 🤷♂️ I love your videos and thank you for being an awesome content creator for our hobby
Would you be able to tell me a specific brand of Grease and Lube to use on a heli like this, please? I can't quite figure it out. Lots of opinions on the forums. The booklet says need a form of lightweight lube I think, and then synthetic grease?
So I personally use micro lube on all helis! It’s expensive but best grease you can get. Really any Synthetic grease will work as long as it’s not petroleum based because the petroleum been greases will eat any kind of rubber. I also use three in one oil or air tool oil for things like bearings and such to let it seep in. And I also use three and one synthetic on stuff like canopy grommets. There is no real one grease for all. I like to have a variety of greases as well as loctite and retaining compound.
im having trouble getting the bolt out of the bottom of the motor to replace the main shaft on my M1. please do a video on the M1 main shaft replacement, because the process is a little different
What are you having trouble with? Like the bolt is too tight or it won’t pull out? Use a little bit of heat to help loosen the Loctite and allow the bolt to slide out easier. I have a full tear down and frame replacement on the M1 coming very soon so I’ll touch on the main shaft
I had to do mine cause of a crash pretty easy after you learn how... But I've had more trouble with the horizontal bearing's going dry on oil and start to shimmy shafts not bent cause I put a new one in and did the shimmy worse ..those little bearings is 3 in each side on it ..the preload was so tight with oil would bind and shake...til oil for to bearings and would fly fine for awhile after...but I will say this is a unforgiving shaft..it will ripp itself apart if not right ..but I ended up loosening v the pre load ..I never use much lock tight if any at all ..makes it a bitch for later but I but the wrong kind on..but I'm a big pusher of oiling my helicopters bearings and motors ustoo spray the gear drive ones with silicone lube..no noise after that
OMP makes a super easy heli to work on. Your taking about the thrust bearing. They need to be greased not oiled. Back the bearing before assembly, my next video I explain and show how. You want a tight preload but smooth, a lot of times lock tight will get in there if your not careful and bind the bearing and cause them to be greedy. And always always always use Loctite! No matter how hard it is to get back off you don’t want screws coming loose in flight. I’ve had a 250 size heli throw a blade from some one who didn’t put no Loctite on the feathering shaft bolts and man did that hurt! Blade hit me right in forehead. Got lucky! Use blue loctite on all screws.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 I bet that did 🤕..I had a nano throw a blade and smack me in the cheek sorry for the drunk text I check mine out good for I fly but still could come loose while flying and throw your parts across the yard ... ..happy I got my m2 happy again though some how my fingers went retarted and didn't pull up in time one day
@@westhobbiesrc8051 had my old cp pro out today running the ol 570 brush motor in it..fun man..those will teach ya about flying big time worst heli blade ever made ..I was lucky to have one tho cause they teach
@@westhobbiesrc8051 that heli is not easy to work on at all .the servos are down where you can't hardly unhook them if you wanted to manually trim it..say if something is bent and the set pitch won't save you .but I didn't have too..they do make a good ideah for the servo arms .they design to break under hard load
@@westhobbiesrc8051 not saying your wrong about any of that ..just ranting about shit I've gone through that sucked..Ive watch you fly and your on a different level of it than me for sure love flyn these birds I Wana get more and more ito it but budget is a big hurdle..
As always, love the content and advice! I ordered some MIP drivers too. Thanks for that tip because I have a box full of crappy drivers. The only thing is I don’t think the ones I ordered are magnetic which I’ll be bummed about if not. I couldn’t find any supplier that said “magnetic” in the description. If you have more info on that I’d sure appreciate it. Take care brother and I look forward to the next video!!! How’s that Reno Spitfire coming btw? 🤠
Thanks for always watching! Glad the contact is useful. As far as magnetic, you can make any driver magnetic. Get yourself a magnet and just rub the end of the driver with the magnet a few times that will magnetize it you are good to go! I do that to all of my drivers. The Reno Spitfire is done actually! There is four more build videos coming out and then the final release video of it being finished! Trying to maiden this week if weather is good!
Try it, it works every time a matter of a driver. I am hoping Monday is the day for the maiden flight! Thing that sucks is you guys won’t see it for about three weeks lol but it’s all good we can start the next project, another Reno racer!
I did the maiden flight today! All I can say is wow! Incredible! Not quite the goal we were going for but very close which is not bad for the first time out but the presence in the air is just insane. It looks gorgeous!
Hey Jeff, I have a vibration (oscillation front to back) occurring only in idle up3 and 3d mode I’ve replaced the main shaft with no luck, could it be the feathering shaft?
Hey Anthony! Yes, definitely could be a bend feather in Shaft. If it has an isolation, that’s normally Gyro related but if it’s only doing it at certain RPMs. I would check and make sure there is no vibrations and feathering shaft would be my first go to if you already replaced the main shaft.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 was just out flying and turned down the rudd gyro to 3 blinks it got rid of quite of bit it. I will pull te feathering shaft tomorrow night.
What up bro!!!...i have to do the same thing to my M2V2, and my 360 and my 480...i let personal life, a stupid girl actually, get into my head and i went flying with a bad attitude and messed up the 360 and 480...i came in hot and flared the 360 to low to the ground in normal mode and because of its slow spool up it hit the ground and caused a little bit of damage...the 480 had been giving me trouble with the stabilization mode upon landing, it wants to just tip itself over for no reason so i landed with stunt one and my muscle memory throttled it down all the way witch caused it to to go full negative and it tipped over and caused damage so i am going to take a step back from all this and break all three helicopters down and rebuild them...im also going to spend hours upon hours on the simulator and also get caught up on things around the house...i will be back strong in mid october though!
What’s up buddy! Sucks to hear that, unfortunately crashes happen but always sucks to hear when such beautiful helicopters get broken. We’ve all been there and done that let girls get in our heads lol as far as your tip over issue I have heard and talk to multiple different people I’ve had nothing but problems with the 6250 FBL. My personal opinion, I would go with a IkonFBL and sell the 6250. Are you still get all the same features self level rescue mode all that but! You have far more tunability you can program flight modes to your flying style normal mode, Idle 1 and Idle 2. Of course you can change how the helicopter behaves in each Mode, and you can make it as dumb down as you like or crazy as you like and No crazy sporadic tendencies. Hope to see you get back in here soon! Break them down replace the parts that need to be replaced and get flying!
Off subject comment but I just got my omp m2 evo and i’m just getting back into helicopters. I had to increase the tail speed from 5 to 7 because it kept loosing the tail on takeoff but after 3 flights I flipped up into idle up 1 and the tail bounces up and down what could I be missing
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Crashed my m2 this morning, and broke the main shaft. Thank you for showing how to do the replacement!
I’m glad it was useful!
Nice re-build. Love the logo and wood cut outs, very cool. Have a great weekend buddy 👍🏻
Thanks buddy! The logos are incredible he did a fantastic job. I am about to watch your Vulcan unboxing video! Looking forward to it.
Great video Jeff as always, this guy is always keeping us in the know !
Thank you! I appreciate it
Thanks
Very nice gift. We use the same 1.5 hex driver, MIP’s are truly amazing tool. Regards
Yes it is! Very nice gift, I really appreciate things like that. Means the world to me. MIP drivers are the best in my opinion. Can’t go wrong with them.
Nothing but professional work out of you.
I don’t know about professional lol appreciate it bud!
Awesome video but your 3 days late :) . While changing a broken servo arm broke 3 so far. I normally orient so if I drop a screw it will not fall into the motor. I didn't do that last time and the screw dropped into the motor. So I had to take the motor off and I couldn't find the screw. My 65 years eyes failed. Ordered replacement parts and a new motor. My 16 yo old son found and retrieved the screw. So I have a motor in reserve. He flies the M2 so much better than I do but I'm not giving up. Got it back together Wednesday working like new.
Thank you so much for all of your videos and I learn so much from every one of them. Sorry for being long winded. Tamed down your code just a bit and it's working beautifully. Thanks again!! Leland
Sorry my video was late lol there will be plenty more coming out in the coming days of different repairs to the M2 head repair swashplate tail boom and tail motor wires so on. I am glad my videos are useful and that you find them useful that is my whole goal. It always sucks when you drop a screw into the motor and have to disassemble the entire thing! Glad the file works great for you, I’m sure you had to tame it down I have it set pretty sensitive! Lol thanks for watching!
Thanks to you im gonna buy this heli.... keep it up and be blessed.... hope to be good pilot and mechanic like ya. 💪🏾🚁
Thank you I appreciate that! I hope you are as well! I hope you enjoy your M2! It’s a incredible heli!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 thanks
@@blueromeo1974 you’re welcome!
Thanks alot. Doesn’t really look complicated at all. I’m going to surprise my fix it buddy by replacing the next one.
It’s not at all. Like all helis, once you have a idea how things come apart and work they are pretty easy. Some easier then others.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 I’ve always been kind of intimidated with changing tail booms and having to zip tie wires, etc. I haven’t looked yet but do you have a video where you change the blade grips and feathering shaft?. My fix anything buddy is such a perfectionist. He always wants to do everything himself but then I’ll never learn myself. It’s like drop it off and come and get it when it’s ready. He seems to get more enjoyment from watching me test it after he’s fixed it. Everything changed for me since I met him though. I was at the point of selling a bunch of them because I was frustrated. Rather than take advantage of me and get the helis for next to nothing he suggested I bring them over. He literally saved four OMP M2, three Eachine 150’s (not in league with OMP with Phillips screws etc but a pretty decent heli with way more power than I can hope to use at this point). Even the Blade 150 FX 😉which he said to please never break again. He fashioned broken switches for radios until the switch could be ordered. Anyway, thanks for showing the repair and I look forward to seeing others so that I might gain a degree of independence. The logos are fantastic as well.
Good idea adding the collar first. I managed to almost separate the motor pushing the new shaft down too far and it causes issues with play and vibrations.
That’s the way I figured would be the best to stop you from pushing the shaft too far and that reason. And I also like to just not push it all the way down just enough to where the screw will finish pulling it so I know it’s flush and inserted properly.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 wish I'd seen your video before I watched the method below 😅😅😅
ruclips.net/video/-5hbSCRUl8Y/видео.html
@@markrice23 yeah I don’t like that way! Lol I just feel like it puts way to much stress on everything. But now you have my videos! Lol
Good job brother 👍🇺🇸🇨🇱✌️
Thank you! I appreciate that.
I know I'm a bit late to the video, but I recently crashed my m2, but tell me why my main shaft was STIFF to get out and almost a hard with the new one going in.
Not sure if the frame tweaked or the center bar support is bent too. Getting my new swash plate on Wednesday and we'll see 🤷♂️
I love your videos and thank you for being an awesome content creator for our hobby
Would you be able to tell me a specific brand of Grease and Lube to use on a heli like this, please? I can't quite figure it out. Lots of opinions on the forums. The booklet says need a form of lightweight lube I think, and then synthetic grease?
So I personally use micro lube on all helis! It’s expensive but best grease you can get. Really any Synthetic grease will work as long as it’s not petroleum based because the petroleum been greases will eat any kind of rubber. I also use three in one oil or air tool oil for things like bearings and such to let it seep in. And I also use three and one synthetic on stuff like canopy grommets. There is no real one grease for all. I like to have a variety of greases as well as loctite and retaining compound.
Hey bro as I was on RUclips I got something in my videos asking me to review your channel so I gave you a perfect review on the RUclips feedback
Wow! I greatly appreciate that. Means a lot!
im having trouble getting the bolt out of the bottom of the motor to replace the main shaft on my M1. please do a video on the M1 main shaft replacement, because the process is a little different
What are you having trouble with? Like the bolt is too tight or it won’t pull out? Use a little bit of heat to help loosen the Loctite and allow the bolt to slide out easier. I have a full tear down and frame replacement on the M1 coming very soon so I’ll touch on the main shaft
@@westhobbiesrc8051 thank you sir. Love your videos
@@johnathonwatkins9490 You’re welcome! I appreciate you watch him and the kind words!
The M2 Evo has a different main shaft. What size of Torx do I need to remove the screen from the motor?
I had to do mine cause of a crash pretty easy after you learn how... But I've had more trouble with the horizontal bearing's going dry on oil and start to shimmy shafts not bent cause I put a new one in and did the shimmy worse ..those little bearings is 3 in each side on it ..the preload was so tight with oil would bind and shake...til oil for to bearings and would fly fine for awhile after...but I will say this is a unforgiving shaft..it will ripp itself apart if not right ..but I ended up loosening v the pre load ..I never use much lock tight if any at all ..makes it a bitch for later but I but the wrong kind on..but I'm a big pusher of oiling my helicopters bearings and motors ustoo spray the gear drive ones with silicone lube..no noise after that
OMP makes a super easy heli to work on. Your taking about the thrust bearing. They need to be greased not oiled. Back the bearing before assembly, my next video I explain and show how. You want a tight preload but smooth, a lot of times lock tight will get in there if your not careful and bind the bearing and cause them to be greedy. And always always always use Loctite! No matter how hard it is to get back off you don’t want screws coming loose in flight. I’ve had a 250 size heli throw a blade from some one who didn’t put no Loctite on the feathering shaft bolts and man did that hurt! Blade hit me right in forehead. Got lucky! Use blue loctite on all screws.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 I bet that did 🤕..I had a nano throw a blade and smack me in the cheek sorry for the drunk text I check mine out good for I fly but still could come loose while flying and throw your parts across the yard ... ..happy I got my m2 happy again though some how my fingers went retarted and didn't pull up in time one day
@@westhobbiesrc8051 had my old cp pro out today running the ol 570 brush motor in it..fun man..those will teach ya about flying big time worst heli blade ever made ..I was lucky to have one tho cause they teach
@@westhobbiesrc8051 that heli is not easy to work on at all .the servos are down where you can't hardly unhook them if you wanted to manually trim it..say if something is bent and the set pitch won't save you .but I didn't have too..they do make a good ideah for the servo arms .they design to break under hard load
@@westhobbiesrc8051 not saying your wrong about any of that ..just ranting about shit I've gone through that sucked..Ive watch you fly and your on a different level of it than me for sure love flyn these birds I Wana get more and more ito it but budget is a big hurdle..
As always, love the content and advice! I ordered some MIP drivers too. Thanks for that tip because I have a box full of crappy drivers. The only thing is I don’t think the ones I ordered are magnetic which I’ll be bummed about if not. I couldn’t find any supplier that said “magnetic” in the description. If you have more info on that I’d sure appreciate it. Take care brother and I look forward to the next video!!! How’s that Reno Spitfire coming btw? 🤠
Thanks for always watching! Glad the contact is useful. As far as magnetic, you can make any driver magnetic. Get yourself a magnet and just rub the end of the driver with the magnet a few times that will magnetize it you are good to go! I do that to all of my drivers. The Reno Spitfire is done actually! There is four more build videos coming out and then the final release video of it being finished! Trying to maiden this week if weather is good!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Okay cool with the magnet tip! And that’s really awesome on the Spitfire!!! Can’t wait to see her in action!!!
Try it, it works every time a matter of a driver. I am hoping Monday is the day for the maiden flight! Thing that sucks is you guys won’t see it for about three weeks lol but it’s all good we can start the next project, another Reno racer!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 can’t wait! 🤠👍
I did the maiden flight today! All I can say is wow! Incredible! Not quite the goal we were going for but very close which is not bad for the first time out but the presence in the air is just insane. It looks gorgeous!
Hey Jeff, I have a vibration (oscillation front to back) occurring only in idle up3 and 3d mode I’ve replaced the main shaft with no luck, could it be the feathering shaft?
Hey Anthony! Yes, definitely could be a bend feather in Shaft. If it has an isolation, that’s normally Gyro related but if it’s only doing it at certain RPMs. I would check and make sure there is no vibrations and feathering shaft would be my first go to if you already replaced the main shaft.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 was just out flying and turned down the rudd gyro to 3 blinks it got rid of quite of bit it. I will pull te feathering shaft tomorrow night.
What up bro!!!...i have to do the same thing to my M2V2, and my 360 and my 480...i let personal life, a stupid girl actually, get into my head and i went flying with a bad attitude and messed up the 360 and 480...i came in hot and flared the 360 to low to the ground in normal mode and because of its slow spool up it hit the ground and caused a little bit of damage...the 480 had been giving me trouble with the stabilization mode upon landing, it wants to just tip itself over for no reason so i landed with stunt one and my muscle memory throttled it down all the way witch caused it to to go full negative and it tipped over and caused damage so i am going to take a step back from all this and break all three helicopters down and rebuild them...im also going to spend hours upon hours on the simulator and also get caught up on things around the house...i will be back strong in mid october though!
What’s up buddy! Sucks to hear that, unfortunately crashes happen but always sucks to hear when such beautiful helicopters get broken. We’ve all been there and done that let girls get in our heads lol as far as your tip over issue I have heard and talk to multiple different people I’ve had nothing but problems with the 6250 FBL. My personal opinion, I would go with a IkonFBL and sell the 6250. Are you still get all the same features self level rescue mode all that but! You have far more tunability you can program flight modes to your flying style normal mode, Idle 1 and Idle 2. Of course you can change how the helicopter behaves in each Mode, and you can make it as dumb down as you like or crazy as you like and No crazy sporadic tendencies. Hope to see you get back in here soon! Break them down replace the parts that need to be replaced and get flying!
is 91% alcohol good enough for cleaning the screws or do you need 99?
@@Crazyshizz007 oh yeah, anything over 80% is good!
Off subject comment but I just got my omp m2 evo and i’m just getting back into helicopters. I had to increase the tail speed from 5 to 7 because it kept loosing the tail on takeoff but after 3 flights I flipped up into idle up 1 and the tail bounces up and down what could I be missing
Turn down elevator gain one. So stock is 5 blinks, try 4 blinks.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 i did that Sunday after making sure it wasn’t a blade imbalance and it flys way better
How much was that helicopter new?
When I purchased them ( I got two) they where $250 if I remember right, they are $300 for the EXP and V2 is $399