Actually it shows it either way in the manual so You can do that either or , I noticed that as well but the manual says it's ok if the washer goes on after it shows both ways in the diagram
@@rogergauthier2769 I think it's better to put the regular washer on first and then the lock washer just because it's a lot harder bend the lock washer around the regular one to lock the nut in place
Excellent video!! Very in depth with explanations of how and why things are the way they are. Not just another put all of these things here because I said so 😂. Thank you so much! Just disassembled my 97 cr250r motor today, gotta finish cleaning the cases and will 100% be referencing your vid along with my shop manual for reassembly.. again thank you, this is invaluable!!
Thank you so much for making this video, I am working on my 98 cr 250 and this is the only video I have found that is actually step by step. Super easy to follow and a huge help👍
Awesome video, priceless resource. In the next months I will start a cr250 2001 rebuild and this video will help me a lot. I’m collecting all the parts I need to make the job. Thanks for the detailed an clear video. Appreciated 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽 PD: Wich are those ratchets you have? Looks very cool.
At 36:27 question u put the collar on and then the washer , I've been watching this and doing my motor along with it , and I noticed on the manual that the washer actually goes on before the collar and spring , idk if it matters but the manual showed it going on after the gear and before the collar I gotta take mine off and swap them but not sure if it matters that much ,let me know thanks
I don't think it really makes a big difference because that's where the washer was when I took the kick starter apart and it works just fine now. But if the manual says to put it on before the collar and spring then do that but my kick starter works fine with the washer on the outside
I’m putting my 02 CR250 engine cases together and noticed 1mm side to side play in my transmission counter/mainshaft, is this normal? I don’t have any spacers missing and just installed oem transmission bearings
A little bit of side to side play is normal. just make sure you can shift through all 5 gears and the cases are fully together. If it shifts good then you should be ok
Do you remember if your shifter went into second, third, etc... I'm around 33:40 on my build and it goes into first and neutral just fine, but it does not go into the other gears (2nd, 3rd, etc.) even when I turn the counter shaft... Would this be because I don't have the clutch installed?
If by that you mean swap all the gears, washers and snap rings over to another counter shaft then yes as long as everything is in good shape and you have an exact OEM replacement shaft for that make, model and year
You got an Instagram or anything I could send you a picture on? I have these two bigger pieces in the transmission that I’m not sure where go and was wondering if you would have any clue
Hey man first thanks for taking the time. I'm building a 1985 CR250 and on the shift drum section when you are putting the cog with the pawls and springs and plate into the piece from the shift drum, doesn't that need to be indexed or clocked just right? otherwise it seems to me it would throw the shift pattern off? Please respond asap as I am going to be doing this tomorrow.
no problem man. if you’ve installed the shift forks correctly on the drum you’re good to go. all those channels on the shift drum are going to determine which gear you’re in. as long as you get the dowel in right on the other side of the case then in should be fine. I hope that made sense
@@northernmx5973 So as long as the drum and shift forks are set correctly I don't have to worry about which notch the pawls go into on the other side? I too thought that the pawls would have to go in a certain notch for the shift pattern to be correct. Also your videos have been a great help to me!
@@colehartman290 There will be corresponding tracks the pawls will go into but it's pretty easy to tell which one they go in. The top/Left fork will go in the top groove, the center will go in the center and the bottom/right will go in the bottom groove. I'm glad the videos are helping 😎
@@northernmx5973 Thank you for the fast reply! I was actually referring to the springy piece at 29:58, there are a couple notches it could go into and I'm trying to figure out which ones to put them in. the notched piece I'm referring to is at 27:44. Pls lmk and thank you for the great content!
So you're gonna leave us hanging with an unfinished motor because you don't have all the parts yet.So why did you start the video?If you don't have all the parts yet kind of silly isn't it
Hey Guys so at 43:50 I show the wrong order for the clutch pieces. It's supposed to go washer, locking plate and then the nut.
Actually it shows it either way in the manual so You can do that either or , I noticed that as well but the manual says it's ok if the washer goes on after it shows both ways in the diagram
@@rogergauthier2769 I think it's better to put the regular washer on first and then the lock washer just because it's a lot harder bend the lock washer around the regular one to lock the nut in place
Enjoyed the bearing install like a 16 penney nail.
Excellent video!! Very in depth with explanations of how and why things are the way they are. Not just another put all of these things here because I said so 😂. Thank you so much! Just disassembled my 97 cr250r motor today, gotta finish cleaning the cases and will 100% be referencing your vid along with my shop manual for reassembly.. again thank you, this is invaluable!!
These videos has helped me so so much. I assembling a 89 CR500, but most everything is the same. Thank you so much.
Glad to hear that. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for making this video, I am working on my 98 cr 250 and this is the only video I have found that is actually step by step. Super easy to follow and a huge help👍
np man
Excellent video, thanks for taking the time!!!
No problem thanks for watching!
good job. thanks for the help
Man, I haven't seen a clutch basket that torn up, ever!
Ya man it was baaaad!
HOW DID YOU PULL OUT THE OLD BEARINGS!!??!!!
IM DOING THIS REBUILD SOON ON MY 04 CR250R 😂❤
Just wondering if you were able to get the vent hose in after you put the case halfs together? Great job on the video help me out a lot!!!!
Yes you can. The grommet is soft enough to pop in with a screw driver but best practice is to put it in before the cases go back together
I love using dental flooss to hold all my gaskets in place especially on bikes then just cut em out the way and ur good
Awesome video, priceless resource. In the next months I will start a cr250 2001 rebuild and this video will help me a lot. I’m collecting all the parts I need to make the job. Thanks for the detailed an clear video. Appreciated 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
PD:
Wich are those ratchets you have? Looks very cool.
Hey thanks man, The ratchets are made by a company call WERA. Not cheap but awesome ratchets
Why are you luck?Tighten the Kix starter retainer bolt.You didn't lock tight any of the other ones..??
nice video man. im doing 1990 crf right now it should be pretty much the same?
Thanks! 1990 cr stroke? If so it should be similar but be sure to have the bike specific service manual to reference
At 36:27 question u put the collar on and then the washer , I've been watching this and doing my motor along with it , and I noticed on the manual that the washer actually goes on before the collar and spring , idk if it matters but the manual showed it going on after the gear and before the collar I gotta take mine off and swap them but not sure if it matters that much ,let me know thanks
I don't think it really makes a big difference because that's where the washer was when I took the kick starter apart and it works just fine now. But if the manual says to put it on before the collar and spring then do that but my kick starter works fine with the washer on the outside
Do you recommend blue or red loctite for the internal bolts?
I use blue. Red loctite is typically used on 1” plus bolt sizes so it sometimes takes aluminum/steel with it when the smaller bolts are removed
I’m putting my 02 CR250 engine cases together and noticed 1mm side to side play in my transmission counter/mainshaft, is this normal? I don’t have any spacers missing and just installed oem transmission bearings
A little bit of side to side play is normal. just make sure you can shift through all 5 gears and the cases are fully together. If it shifts good then you should be ok
Do you remember if your shifter went into second, third, etc... I'm around 33:40 on my build and it goes into first and neutral just fine, but it does not go into the other gears (2nd, 3rd, etc.) even when I turn the counter shaft... Would this be because I don't have the clutch installed?
No, the clutch doesn’t have anything to do with that. And yes I could shift through all five gears on the bench
I like your choice of words. Keep em segregated 😂😂
If I just need to replace the countershaft what do I need to get other parts with it or can I use the parts that are already in it.
If by that you mean swap all the gears, washers and snap rings over to another counter shaft then yes as long as everything is in good shape and you have an exact OEM replacement shaft for that make, model and year
You got an Instagram or anything I could send you a picture on? I have these two bigger pieces in the transmission that I’m not sure where go and was wondering if you would have any clue
What about a transmission breather hose? Is it possible to install it with cases together?
Absolutely it’s possible. The rubber is soft enough to push in after
Hey man first thanks for taking the time. I'm building a 1985 CR250 and on the shift drum section when you are putting the cog with the pawls and springs and plate into the piece from the shift drum, doesn't that need to be indexed or clocked just right? otherwise it seems to me it would throw the shift pattern off? Please respond asap as I am going to be doing this tomorrow.
no problem man. if you’ve installed the shift forks correctly on the drum you’re good to go. all those channels on the shift drum are going to determine which gear you’re in. as long as you get the dowel in right on the other side of the case then in should be fine. I hope that made sense
@@northernmx5973 So as long as the drum and shift forks are set correctly I don't have to worry about which notch the pawls go into on the other side? I too thought that the pawls would have to go in a certain notch for the shift pattern to be correct. Also your videos have been a great help to me!
@@colehartman290 There will be corresponding tracks the pawls will go into but it's pretty easy to tell which one they go in. The top/Left fork will go in the top groove, the center will go in the center and the bottom/right will go in the bottom groove. I'm glad the videos are helping 😎
@@northernmx5973 Thank you for the fast reply! I was actually referring to the springy piece at 29:58, there are a couple notches it could go into and I'm trying to figure out which ones to put them in. the notched piece I'm referring to is at 27:44. Pls lmk and thank you for the great content!
@@colehartman290 ah ok. You’ll know if they are in backwards because it will not fit. they will stick out and not be flush inside the center drum
So you're gonna leave us hanging with an unfinished motor because you don't have all the parts yet.So why did you start the video?If you don't have all the parts yet kind of silly isn't it
Put a year reference in the title video. the fuck?
I put the year in the description