When customers send their blocks in they need to understand and realize the processes and attention to detail involved....... This is Top Level machining! Awesome work!
A research rebuild specialist put new a Detroit Diesel wet liner on the workbench with a bore gauge in the bore, and instructed me to squeeze the liner with one hand. I could deflect it 2 or 3 tenths. Then he told me my grip is no where near as strong as combustion pressure and piston inertial stresses. The engine is a big "spring" when running.
Hey Daniel, Tim here, you have just validated AGAIN, my confidence and trust in why i sub'd.....you dont need CNC to get it spot on....my first motor (400 Pontiac) still runs today, built in '83......bored .030, and one hole has a sleeve...(wrist pin had a fun day).....all machined by the BEST East coast Poncho dude (Nunzi) all those yrs ago.....no CNC in '83... if done properly, NO issues..... nuf said.....roll on my brother, kick ass!!
Great work!!! Remind me very much of a fella here in N. Alabama. Dennis Mitchel did my machine work for years until he retired. Great work and always shot ya straight.
Once you board the Briggs & Stratton motor the junk.. the hardened surface is now turned away and you just have soft aluminum for the rings to run on .. so the motors junk if you bored it...😊
@timr31908 no it isn't, I have a personal 5hp briggs generator I built for myself 20 years ago, it was aluminum bore and I bored it .02" over, still runs like a champ today.
I have a few haas parts machines. What is the part number on the motor? If I got it I would send it to you for free. Thanks for all of the good videos.
Once again your attention to detail and level of knowledge, experience and skills are impressive. The overall quality of your work is outstanding and I appreciate you letting us see it!
The problem isn't a cmm, as the locations can be verified in the machine, the issue is people using cnc's but don't really understand positioning and how to put thing's in location.
i find working in a machine shop therapeutic and relaxing, from the measurements to doing it the same way every time. i literally feel it keeps me from going postal.. lol
Once again, we are impressed with the time and little bit of extra effort, to get that quality job, that all clients would be impressed with. Thank you. I personally would have you build a big inch small LS for a street deal if I lived in the US. Cheers Doug
This is another great video! I really like you explaining all the steps needed and why. I learn something new with every video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I do powersports cylinders. It is easier when you are doing just one hole per casting. Sleeve a ton of them. Flange sleeves with windows for ports. I hone them to set interference fit. I've seen much better piston and bore life from the honing in both liquid-cooled and air-cooled cylinders from the better heat transfer.
@@powellmachineinc I thoroughly enjoy your videos. They show your pride in quality. A smart man once said - "Always work up to a higher standard, never down to a lower price."
love the content ive searched your vids but would love to see a video on camshaft tech like installing straight up vs retared vs advanced.. especially for a race bbc application...
So I’m going to go ahead and say that I haven’t had any work done by you,but I appreciate what you do. I am a master tech at an independent shop,and the quality of parts coming in our door is absolute garbage. We are having parts fail right at the start and some parts we can’t even put on due to flaws in them right off the get go. Reman cylinder heads from auto parts stores that already have chewed up cams on a Chrysler 3.6. So me seeing you ensuring that it’s right has got my vote all day. Machine work is expensive to have done and your work is worth every cent you ask for it plus a few percentages. Excellent work as usual and I’d like to get a quote from you for me to ship a set of 5.7 hemi heads to you and have them gone through.
Great advice, honing will allow more contact, more heat transfer, and a more stable sleeve, I can't recollect another machine shop honing before pressing in sleeves. You always go the extra mile to make it right! Thanks for letting us look in.
Funny you mentioned Briggs engines. I probably sleeved 200+ Briggs blocks. I always honed with 600 grit to finalize the bore size for the sleeve. They stayed rounder if the bore was smooth before the sleeve went in..
@powellmachineinc3179 its interesting to see the process because in Australia now the 5.3 427 stroker is becoming more popular. Do you know why someone would use that type of block for such a large stroker compared to using a 6.0 litre block to stroke to 427 for a project? What are the benefits? Thanks again, i really enjoy all your content, kind regards John.
I noticed you had some snowmobile or dirt bike or ATV cylinder sitting on the floor behind you that would be absolutely awesome if you could do a couple videos on those I build Yamaha Banshee motors and I'm always interested in the process of sleeving porting that kind of thing any video on ATV dirt bikes snowmobile cylinders especially two stroke stuff please please please please do a video that would be so cool I love your channel I watch it all the time
@@powellmachineinc yeah that would be awesome I do a lot of two-stroke porting I don't really play with the four-stroke porting as much but I would be very very interested to see how you do those cylinders to see how far I'm off of what I think is correct I mean nobody's necessarily correct what works for one may not work for another and what works for another may not work for the other guy so I always say if someone has a method for doing something better than my method by all means I will absolutely take that into memory
This old guy enjoys the way you tell the machining process. As I did oval track north east in the 70's. All so build rf amplifers trans to heat sink the smoother the surface the better heat transfer.
I love to hear you explaining this stuff(I know less than zERo), and when you say it's "just a little bit of math", I do understand when you say that but I'm guessing that leaves a bunch of engine guru's or self professed YaHoo's running for cover? I've got this picture of greasy guys w/ their Hilti Drill trying to hand do this part..... perhaps I'm exaggerating, the guys I'm talking about can't afford a Hilti.....I didn't realize you had sleeves of dissimilar metals or a lot of other things but that's why I am here. Learning something! peace Boss
My dad owned his own transmission shop after being one of the Tops in Sales they'd fly him to shops that were failing and he'd turn them around. But it was a hard lesson for him when he was more than a great salesman. He got going w/ his own place in 90-91 & I'd visit every now -n- then where he'd put me to work doing a little of everything. That's a time of all sorts of changes as you know but good help was the hardest thing & my dad wanted high end work, no bullSH!Te. He did pretty well but died unexpectedly in 2002. What was left was a lot of cars in various stages of not complete, no builders or R/R men, & a lot of stuff was looted prior to me getting there. Nightmare is putting it lightly. Sorry I digressed, I learned about "Trainwrecks" when folks who already paid for work at other places would come to us & my dad would fix it. He fixed a lot that was beyond his responsibility but that's why people loved him = He did it right & that's what I saw in your videos.... lol, I don't know ya but it's a feeling or kinda like a empathetic utterance of sorts. Whatever it is it reminded me of my dads place, one of integrity. Good day !
Daniel, In the days that OEM transfer machines used to hone all the bores of a given bank of a none core-shifted (or aged) block in one go, were absolute and relative positions pretty well the best that they could be, at least for an initial assembly? Or did they vary much more that the few thousanths that you have seen on late blocks? Thanks for all your insights.
Briggs and Stratton, could make the aluminum cylinder bore work but the Chevy Vega, was a mess! Saw some old footage, where Chevy said, the aluminum was harder than cast iron. Daniel im sure you understand what went wrong, better than I do. Any input? Appreciate you, Daniel.
My take on surface finish on guides, ream close to final size and finish hone them. Fun fact about heads even some aftermarket heads don’t have the best water passages around some Exh guides and they build more heat and normally if you have a bronze guide is the cast head they won’t cool as well on some holes and normally sticks a guide. On some dart iron eagle heads I put a cast iron guide in and then a K liner on the Exh and finish hone them and boom problem solved
There .100" some iron 6.0s are not much more, but the key is a Ductile iron sleeve, they are about 4 time's as strong, so the sleeve is doing all the work
I had a 427 LS on the dyno last week that the customer had purchased the block from a MAJOR US company (they start with a brand new alloy 5.3 block) and I was totally disappointed with the blowby the engine had. (block was fully prepared/honed to size and ready to assemble unit) If this is the result, I'll stick with the LSX/Dart iron block.
Machines 80 years ago were just as accurate as anything today It's 90% the operator if the operator doesn't set the part in the machine correctly the machine only does what it does so if the part is not set up correctly the job won't be done correctly not on any fault of the machine
@@powellmachineinc hi, and thanks for taking the time to comment. darton wants a slip fit- on the LS and most Al. blocks.( or have they changed in the last 2? yrs) what dont you like about that? Or what "bad? conditions" have you seen with slip fit sleeves? (Ferrari has always been slip fit/ to .0005 press, but that is a different design sleeve.)
Sorry if this has been answered already, how thick is the block parent material after you cut for the sleeve? I’m thinking about sleeping a 5.3 LT in a similar fashion
what is the purpose of sleeving this block vs. acquiring a block that already has 4.125 bore? is there a major cost difference or are the blocks with the 4.125" bore not readily available? p.s. really enjoy your content.
The later aluminum Gen IV 5.3 castings have more meat in several places that make them well suited to boring the stock sleeves out then continuing to bore the block to accept a larger sleeve. He is not honing it to a 4.125 bore, there is far more involved. He is honing the block to maximize the contact between the sleeve and the cylinder, after boring it to accept the sleeve.
I'm late to the party, but listening to you say 4.44, then 4.44 more, then 4.44 more... That's going to allow stacking measurement errors to occur. If you're going to use that dowel hole, then each bore should be measured from that dowel hole. That way, if you screw up the second measurement, the other two won't stack...not that it matters, because if you hose one, it's junk.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
When customers send their blocks in they need to understand and realize the processes and attention to detail involved....... This is Top Level machining!
Awesome work!
Tyvm!! I really appreciate that
I'm loving your videos and appreciate you sharing your knowledge 👍
I appreciate that!
A research rebuild specialist put new a Detroit Diesel wet liner on the workbench with a bore gauge in the bore, and instructed me to squeeze the liner with one hand. I could deflect it 2 or 3 tenths. Then he told me my grip is no where near as strong as combustion pressure and piston inertial stresses. The engine is a big "spring" when running.
Yep
I see you taking a lot more steps just in prep. I can see the pride and quality in your work that i havnt seen in too many places.
Thank you, we try hard!
Hey Daniel,
Tim here, you have just validated AGAIN, my confidence and trust in why i sub'd.....you dont need CNC to get it spot on....my first motor (400 Pontiac) still runs today, built in '83......bored .030, and one hole has a sleeve...(wrist pin had a fun day).....all machined by the BEST East coast Poncho dude (Nunzi) all those yrs ago.....no CNC in '83... if done properly, NO issues..... nuf said.....roll on my brother, kick ass!!
Ty, I appreciate you
Hi Daniel, having it done right is worth the bill! Thanks Daniel
You bet!
Great work!!! Remind me very much of a fella here in N. Alabama. Dennis Mitchel did my machine work for years until he retired. Great work and always shot ya straight.
Tyvm
It’s always fun to watch your videos. Thank you for taking the time to create them.
My pleasure!
Once you board the Briggs & Stratton motor the junk.. the hardened surface is now turned away and you just have soft aluminum for the rings to run on .. so the motors junk if you bored it...😊
@timr31908 no it isn't, I have a personal 5hp briggs generator I built for myself 20 years ago, it was aluminum bore and I bored it .02" over, still runs like a champ today.
I have an aluminum 5.3 and 6.0 i'd like to get turned into 427. Love the pride you put into your work and I watch all your videos.
Ty, we really appreciate that!
I have a few haas parts machines. What is the part number on the motor? If I got it I would send it to you for free. Thanks for all of the good videos.
A tip of the hat to you !
Once again your attention to detail and level of knowledge, experience and skills are impressive. The overall quality of your work is outstanding and I appreciate you letting us see it!
Thank you very much!
Thanks. Always interesting.
Ty!
been looking forward to more work on this engine.
Definitely, just behind!, we will get it
The explanation given in this segment is as real as it gets.
There are too many shops offering CNC machining services without a CMM to verify.
The problem isn't a cmm, as the locations can be verified in the machine, the issue is people using cnc's but don't really understand positioning and how to put thing's in location.
i find working in a machine shop therapeutic and relaxing, from the measurements to doing it the same way every time. i literally feel it keeps me from going postal.. lol
Couldn't agree more!
Once again, we are impressed with the time and little bit of extra effort, to get that quality job, that all clients would be impressed with. Thank you. I personally would have you build a big inch small LS for a street deal if I lived in the US. Cheers Doug
Tyvm, I really appreciate that 🙏 💯
This is another great video! I really like you explaining all the steps needed and why. I learn something new with every video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Glad it was helpful!
I do powersports cylinders. It is easier when you are doing just one hole per casting. Sleeve a ton of them. Flange sleeves with windows for ports. I hone them to set interference fit. I've seen much better piston and bore life from the honing in both liquid-cooled and air-cooled cylinders from the better heat transfer.
Definitely, I have done my share of 2 stroke sleeves!
@@powellmachineinc I thoroughly enjoy your videos. They show your pride in quality.
A smart man once said - "Always work up to a higher standard, never down to a lower price."
love the content ive searched your vids but would love to see a video on camshaft tech like installing straight up vs retared vs advanced.. especially for a race bbc application...
You do great work.
Tyvm
So I’m going to go ahead and say that I haven’t had any work done by you,but I appreciate what you do. I am a master tech at an independent shop,and the quality of parts coming in our door is absolute garbage. We are having parts fail right at the start and some parts we can’t even put on due to flaws in them right off the get go. Reman cylinder heads from auto parts stores that already have chewed up cams on a Chrysler 3.6. So me seeing you ensuring that it’s right has got my vote all day. Machine work is expensive to have done and your work is worth every cent you ask for it plus a few percentages. Excellent work as usual and I’d like to get a quote from you for me to ship a set of 5.7 hemi heads to you and have them gone through.
Great advice, honing will allow more contact, more heat transfer, and a more stable sleeve, I can't recollect another machine shop honing before pressing in sleeves. You always go the extra mile to make it right! Thanks for letting us look in.
Funny you mentioned Briggs engines. I probably sleeved 200+ Briggs blocks. I always honed with 600 grit to finalize the bore size for the sleeve. They stayed rounder if the bore was smooth before the sleeve went in..
Definitely
Great episode, alot of really good information looking forward to the next one.
Glad you enjoyed it
@powellmachineinc3179 its interesting to see the process because in Australia now the 5.3 427 stroker is becoming more popular. Do you know why someone would use that type of block for such a large stroker compared to using a 6.0 litre block to stroke to 427 for a project? What are the benefits? Thanks again, i really enjoy all your content, kind regards John.
I noticed you had some snowmobile or dirt bike or ATV cylinder sitting on the floor behind you that would be absolutely awesome if you could do a couple videos on those I build Yamaha Banshee motors and I'm always interested in the process of sleeving porting that kind of thing any video on ATV dirt bikes snowmobile cylinders especially two stroke stuff please please please please do a video that would be so cool I love your channel I watch it all the time
Lol, will do
@@powellmachineinc yeah that would be awesome I do a lot of two-stroke porting I don't really play with the four-stroke porting as much but I would be very very interested to see how you do those cylinders to see how far I'm off of what I think is correct I mean nobody's necessarily correct what works for one may not work for another and what works for another may not work for the other guy so I always say if someone has a method for doing something better than my method by all means I will absolutely take that into memory
This old guy enjoys the way you tell the machining process. As I did oval track north east in the 70's. All so build rf amplifers trans to heat sink the smoother the surface the better heat transfer.
Absolutely
Your comment reminds me I need to check the condition of the thermal grease in my old amps.
Your comment reminds me I need to check the condition of the thermal grease in my old amps.
Your comment reminds me I need to check the condition of the thermal grease in my old amps.
@@johnstuchlik5828 late but the answer it have a tech check it out over time heat it get hard. just a old radio tech guy.
I love to hear you explaining this stuff(I know less than zERo), and when you say it's "just a little bit of math", I do understand when
you say that but I'm guessing that leaves a bunch of engine guru's or self professed YaHoo's running for cover? I've got this picture
of greasy guys w/ their Hilti Drill trying to hand do this part..... perhaps I'm exaggerating, the guys I'm talking about can't afford a
Hilti.....I didn't realize you had sleeves of dissimilar metals or a lot of other things but that's why I am here. Learning something!
peace Boss
Trust me, many shops are still doing it in a undesirable way, we fix trainwreck jobs all the time
My dad owned his own transmission shop after being one of the Tops in Sales they'd fly him to shops that were failing
and he'd turn them around. But it was a hard lesson for him when he was more than a great salesman. He got going
w/ his own place in 90-91 & I'd visit every now -n- then where he'd put me to work doing a little of everything. That's
a time of all sorts of changes as you know but good help was the hardest thing & my dad wanted high end work, no
bullSH!Te. He did pretty well but died unexpectedly in 2002. What was left was a lot of cars in various stages of
not complete, no builders or R/R men, & a lot of stuff was looted prior to me getting there. Nightmare is putting
it lightly. Sorry I digressed, I learned about "Trainwrecks" when folks who already paid for work at other places
would come to us & my dad would fix it. He fixed a lot that was beyond his responsibility but that's why people
loved him = He did it right & that's what I saw in your videos.... lol, I don't know ya but it's a feeling or kinda like
a empathetic utterance of sorts. Whatever it is it reminded me of my dads place, one of integrity. Good day !
Daniel, In the days that OEM transfer machines used to hone all the bores of a given bank of a none core-shifted (or aged) block in one go, were absolute and relative positions pretty well the best that they could be, at least for an initial assembly? Or did they vary much more that the few thousanths that you have seen on late blocks? Thanks for all your insights.
Yeah, most were pretty good.
Briggs and Stratton, could make the aluminum cylinder bore work but the Chevy Vega, was a mess! Saw some old footage, where Chevy said, the aluminum was harder than cast iron. Daniel im sure you understand what went wrong, better than I do. Any input? Appreciate you, Daniel.
I have never done a vega block in my life, I did a few vega head's, but no block work.
Always a super smart tip in your videos. 👍
Glad you like them!
My take on surface finish on guides, ream close to final size and finish hone them. Fun fact about heads even some aftermarket heads don’t have the best water passages around some Exh guides and they build more heat and normally if you have a bronze guide is the cast head they won’t cool as well on some holes and normally sticks a guide. On some dart iron eagle heads I put a cast iron guide in and then a K liner on the Exh and finish hone them and boom problem solved
Really enjoyed this one. So is there any risk from the walls between the cylinders getting so thin?
There .100" some iron 6.0s are not much more, but the key is a Ductile iron sleeve, they are about 4 time's as strong, so the sleeve is doing all the work
Any special stones or process for honing the aluminum? Guessing a specific set of stones only used for this purpose…
Na, the aluminum hones pretty well
I had a 427 LS on the dyno last week that the customer had purchased the block from a MAJOR US company (they start with a brand new alloy 5.3 block) and I was totally disappointed with the blowby the engine had. (block was fully prepared/honed to size and ready to assemble unit) If this is the result, I'll stick with the LSX/Dart iron block.
Your average mechanic understands what causes blowby, did anyone actually check those things? Or just slap it together?
Does engine operation thermal cycling of an aluminum block move around more than cast iron?
Na, not really
Its amazing how accurate the old machines were 70 or 80 years ago and they didnt have some of the equipment we have now to make them with.
Yep
Machines 80 years ago were just as accurate as anything today It's 90% the operator if the operator doesn't set the part in the machine correctly the machine only does what it does so if the part is not set up correctly the job won't be done correctly not on any fault of the machine
@@Adam-banshee-man exactly. Measurements are the same today as 100 years ago and actually further back. But know lol
u da man
Ty
Do you see any lifter bore wear in aluminum ls blocks vs iron blocks, that really matters with hyd rollers?
Definitely matters more with hydraulic units, but most all ls bores are loose, aluminum or iron
hi, a great video. What type/ model borring bar do you use in your cnc? Are you settig up the sleeves for a slip fit?
.002" press
@@powellmachineinc hi, and thanks for taking the time to comment. darton wants a slip fit- on the LS and most Al. blocks.( or have they changed in the last 2? yrs) what dont you like about that? Or what "bad? conditions" have you seen with slip fit sleeves? (Ferrari has always been slip fit/ to .0005 press, but that is a different design sleeve.)
What keeps the stones loading up? Is there a special honing stone for aluminum? Does the honing oil keep stones from loading up?
Yeah, they don't load really
Sorry if this has been answered already, how thick is the block parent material after you cut for the sleeve?
I’m thinking about sleeping a 5.3 LT in a similar fashion
Those LS blocks are all Hipped huh?
Datum... all points should share a common dowel pin 📍 datum aka
Correct, but Joe viewer doesn't know what a Datum is, so I try to keep it preschool
what is the purpose of sleeving this block vs. acquiring a block that already has 4.125 bore? is there a major cost difference or are the blocks with the 4.125" bore not readily available? p.s. really enjoy your content.
A aftermarket block is almost 7k
@@powellmachineinc understood.
Machining/boring on the CNC will correct core shift issues, or no?
0.0 is a Grand house, 0.00 is a Grand piano, 0.000 is a Grand prix, and 0.0000 is what tHis Guy does
Lol 😆
Do the cylinders on a cast iron block move like the aluminum blocks when you are boring them like that?
Even more
What is the most hp to be safe for the block to handle with the sleeved block ?
1500ish
@@powellmachineinc thats pretty good power.right up there with the pricey aftermarket blocks
I have 20 BME pistons that need the wrist pins opened up .015" how would you go about that? Bore .012-.013" a hone them?
Correct
Please add this to the "Cali 5.3/427 Playlist"
Done
That's a decent upsize
Definitely
What is the rough cost to turn a 5.3 block into a 427?
4k
@@powellmachineinc Ouch.
Needs to be a Gen 4 aluminum 5.3L to hone for a 427?
The later aluminum Gen IV 5.3 castings have more meat in several places that make them well suited to boring the stock sleeves out then continuing to bore the block to accept a larger sleeve. He is not honing it to a 4.125 bore, there is far more involved. He is honing the block to maximize the contact between the sleeve and the cylinder, after boring it to accept the sleeve.
@v8packard so to get to a 427 this way, it's a smaller bore than a 4.125, and it's the stroke that gets it to the 427.
@@GrandPitoVic No, I think the finished bore will be 4.125
Watch episode 1....
I'm late to the party, but listening to you say 4.44, then 4.44 more, then 4.44 more... That's going to allow stacking measurement errors to occur. If you're going to use that dowel hole, then each bore should be measured from that dowel hole. That way, if you screw up the second measurement, the other two won't stack...not that it matters, because if you hose one, it's junk.
When I program it it's from the datum..... I'm just explaining it in simple terms for regular folks... like I don't know what to do....
BS