Hey, professor thanks for the super clear and concise class. I'm a beginner to macro photography who has most of the necessary gear except knowledge of subject lighting. I'll experiment with all that I have learned today. The good thing about digital photography is the absence of film and development costs and not having to wait for days to see the results or failures. All that's needed on my part is practise, practise, practise. Thanks for your time and lesson. Bookmarked for future reference.
Eduardo, thanks for your comment. I just finished a biomedical/forensic workshop here in Melbourne and have created a couple of 'photomac fanatics'. High mag photography is simply fun!
Thank you, Prof. Spring. Refreshing to see someone who knows his subject. Too many 'amateurs' ( I am one of them! ☺) dabble into macro without bringing the scientific calculations to determine the magnification. I bought in the 70s a series of books from "Time Life". One of them contained such explanations but I was never able to use them in a modern digital context. Now, I will be able to do it. I am also impressed by your splendid followup to the questions or reactions. Thank you, Sir!
Anyone who ever tried macro bellows work with a film camera, (especially slide film), and manual flash knows what a Godsend digital is. With film, it was often hit-and-miss, and you had better like math!
What an excellent video! Even though it was some years ago, it really explains a lot of important details about macro bellows photography. I’ll listen to most of it, except I will use Panasonic and Olympus cameras, flashes, bellows and lenses, not Nikon. Thanks
You don’t need a reverse lens mount with a Nikon pb6 bellows. You can just screw the lens to the inner front of the bellows backwards and then attach the front focus mount to the lens.
Suggestion, consider using a focus rail not on the camera but on the subject which might be considerably lighter than the huge camera/bellows rig and be less likely to move inappropriately between shots. This allows the camera to be firmly attached to a platform and does not require as heavy duty (expensive) focus rail.
I need some advice. I have NIKON d5300. I plan to go with the same setup as yours in the video. However, I'd like to try using a microscope objective instead of the reversed camera lens. I know there are a ton of adapters available but I dont know where to start. My guess is to start with a camera to bellows adapter that will connect the two. Then find an adapter to fit the other end of the bellows that will fit the microscope lens. Of course I be using a 4-way macro slider connected to the base of the bellows....like yours....with the exception, no tripod, instead I will be using a solid table equipped with a 24" by 24" PVC cage to attach my lights. When using a microscope objective I think there would be greater magnification...more then the standard reversed 50mm for example. The term "macro photograpy now becomes "extreme macro photography". Now then....I have seen photos where instead of a single bug fills the frame, its entire head fills the frame showing g every detail. I have always been interested in photography. However...macro/micro opens up an entire new world. With today's digital one can get amazing results. Photo stacking is one of the methods not available back when I owned my first Nikon in 1976. Back then i was in the U.S. Navy. While visiting the Acropolis, in Greece, I took a fall with my camera hanging around my neck. Needless to say... I banged up my camera on the rocks. The outer edge of the lens housing, where one screws on filters, was dented badly. The reverse lens system....well...no way now. Anyway....... My question would be....Do you thing the reverse lens would be better then the microscope objective? I can always find another used 50mm on Amazon or Ebay for about $75.00. The microscope objective is at about the same price. Anyway....opinion on this please. www.Dockside.dh@gmail.com
Thanks for your questions. I'll try a short reply. If you need more info, happy to respond again. You can get an RMS (microscope objective thread) to T-mount adapter on Ebay. Then get the T-mount to Nikon adapter. As for the microscope objective, I recommend a 4x Plan objective. ('Plan' refers to a flat field objective but some people have success using only an achromat objective.) Using a bellows, that will give you pretty high magnification (certainly a lot more than a reversed camera lens). The 4x objective will be optimised for a certain bellows extension. Experimentation will reveal the best results for focusing and sharpness. It does not allow you to choose an f-stop. It will not give you very much depth of field (you could say none). If you use stacking software, you can shoot a series at different planes of focus and create images that demonstrate more depth of field. (I use Zerene Stacker software but others work equally as well.) Using microscope objectives on bellow is challenging. Try it and get back to me. Good luck.
It may be a while before I can adventure into this. After making a few purchases online, which include a new Nikon d5300 and a few other accessaries I'm finding that covid-19 has created some delays in shipping. My avenue of approach is going to be the use of microscope objectives. I'm looking to buy something that will give me around 4x magnification. Alan Walls video on RUclips put this thought into my head. He states in his video there is a very good objective for a very reasonable price on Ebay. My Nikor 50mm 1:2 would be great for reversal method but the female 52mm is damaged. It still is ok...but I can't even use filters with it. Replacing the lens means buying a used one or buying another old camera. The microscope objective I'm finding would be cheaper as it sells for around $20 and adapters needed are not expensive. Alan Walls says use a M39 adapter then to whatever I need for the bellows. Again....I need to order bellows. I'm going to wait until shipping issues is over.
@@davidhefner5668 David, your 50mm would give you 4x with good quality. I like a Nikon 35mm f/2 used in the reverse position. As for adapters, most (not all) microscope lenses use an RMS thread (Royal Microscopical Society). You will need an RMS to whatever (M39 Leica, M42, etc.) and eventually something with a Nikon mount (assuming you are using a Nikon bellows). I appreciate the problem of ordering on line and shipping problems right now. We are having the same issue in Australia. Ironic that currently we have (forced) time to do projects but can't always get our hands on the right toys! Good luck. Gale
Excellent education.. I was thinking of selling a bellows I have never used.. Now I am thinking.. 'Don't be so hasty..' P.S.. Using the Fiber Optic is a neat addition..
@@galespring9028 Thank you for reply Gale.. You have achieved so much and I am impressed.. Congrats for that.. Immediately after I watched this excellent little tutorial I ran for the bellows and tried it out posting result to a FaceBook group and shared your tutorial.. It is thanks to you that I am inspired to do a lot more of Macro work..
I'm afraid you're correct. The 'technical' side of photography has been dying in university courses and programs for years. Ours at RMIT University in Australia may have been the last one embracing theory as a core. It concerns me to discover how much is not known about how an image is created and how the lack of knowledge affects the interpretation of a photograph. This is all in the context of forensic matters where someone may go to prison (or not, but should) due to the misinterpretation of images. Oh well...as long s it looks good??!...
Note to the Cinematographer: don't pan your camera when the instructor is also panning his camera via the focusing rail! The result is the viewer does not get the point that the instructor's camera is moving sideways!
Thank you very much professor for sharing your knownledge. I would like to ask you about using microscope lenses mounted on bellows vs reversed camera lenses. Is there any relevant difference in image quality (sharpness, contrast, distortion)? I hope you could read my question 🙏🏼 and give me a few words on that respect.
Thank you very much Professor for your words. I've been experimenting with a 10x objective and I have had lots of fun doing it. I wasn't aware of the aperture in objectives so I will try to work with one that has aperture ring. Again, thank you for answering my question, I really appreciate it.
Great video! Thank you! Could you share your source for the A clamp articulated arms and the small platform you are using to place the articulated arm on, in front of the camera?
I assume you are not using a manual bellows. For the flash to communicate to your camera does the bellows have to have a electronic connection with lens and camera?
For the mathematically challenged among us, would you explain how to calculate magnification? I counted ~8 mm shown on the scale card at the 13:11 mark in the video. Assuming you're using a full-frame 35mm camera, I divided 35mm by 8 mm; the answer is 4.375, assuming my math is correct. What if the camera uses a crop sensor such as APS-C? Thanks for your help!
Very good informational video, but the images were not properly exposed they were overexposed, as commercial product macro photographers at our firm we manually adjust our exposure even with our macro work, even the best TTL systems are often fooled into the wrong exposure as was the case in this video.
I am having a hard time copying a slide on a apsc camera (sony a6000) adapted with a Metabones ring to an old BPM bellows with Nikkor 50mm. When properly focused only part of the slide appears on the viewer. Can you advise me how to Ho around this problem?
Hi. It is not clear to me how you were able to use the wireless flash units for correct exposure when the lens is not directly attached to the camera. I have always been of the view that in order for that to happen the lens must have contact pins and be directly in contact with the contact pins of the camera.
Sorry for the delay in answering your question. Consider it Nikon magic! I use the R1C1 Nikon flash kit. The 'C' stands for 'Commander' and it attaches to the hot shoe of the camera and communicates exposure information between the remote flashes and the camera. The independent flash units (the R1's) communicate with the Commander unit through an infrared signal to control the exposure. With most (but not all) of the Nikon camera models, you can set the camera to read the actual light entering the camera through the aperture. This is a manual aperture setting so the lens does not have to be connected to the camera, therefore; it works with accessories like bellows and extension tubes. So just like an automatic dedicated flash on the camera, the shutter opens, the Commander unit via infrared tells the flashes to fire, the flashes fire, the Commander unit turns the flashes off via an infrared signal when the camera has sensed a 'proper' exposure. As I said, It's Nikon magic.......or actually, physics! (Note, many of the new Nikon camera models now have the Commander unit built into the camera body so they don't require the big unit to attach to the hot shoe. Technology is definitely heading towards infrared (wireless) controls.
Hello budy, how are you!! Where can I get this fiber optic hose? and this ruler too? another question does this fiber optic hose illuminate the same light that a flash emits? Thank you
Thanks for your question. I have fibre optics from Elinchrom and Broncolor. Both companies make (or at least use to make) fibre optic kits. Check with your local camera dealer and see if they can source the kit or a replacement fibre optic. (Warning: they are pricy.) Each brand has a slightly different size mount but you can drill out any size mounting hole depending on what you are attaching it on to. The color temperature of the light coming out of the fibre optic matches the source. On electronic flash, the color temperature is basically balanced for daylight (or about 5500 to 6000 degrees Kelvin). The scales are from The Safari Group (Lightning Powder). Do an Internet search for their web site. On their site, search Products/Forensics/Crime scene documentation/Rulers& scales.
Gitzo / Manfrotto makes a Magic Arm which is very similar and well made, also. Most professional camera stores should have them. www.manfrotto.us/magic-photo-arm-smart-centre-lever-and-flexible-extension
Gale Spring thanks for the exhaustive reply. I have always thought digital camera can't meter flash off the sensor like film cameras do, so I was wondering where does the pre-flash measurement take place ? From the camera body or from the wireless flash in this case ?
Originally, TTL flash photography did rely on light reflecting off the film (so it was also called OTF or Off-The-Film) during the exposure. With digital cameras the electronics for reading light are in the camera and they 'talk' to the flash during the exposure. It works...it's magic. Remember, different manufacturers will have solved this in different ways so you may want to talk to the manufacturer to understand how their system works.
I bought a bellows to do macro Photography Hooked up to my Nikon D3100 and my 18-55 DX Nikkor lens and it said lens not connected to CPU can you help me.
Leonard, thanks for your question. Some models of Nikon cameras will not work if it does not sense a lens attached. The D3100 may be one of those models. I'll check further and try to get you an answer. Check the owner's manual (a daunting experience) and see if it mentions how to activate the shutter with no lens attached. Also, try setting the camera to manual mode. You may have to set it in shutter speed priority mode first to set a shutter speed through a command dial, then move to manual mode. Good luck. I'll try to get back soon.
Leonard, I have downloaded and read the D3100 manual. Info is always a bit hard to find - especially in manuals. It says the camera must be used in 'manual' mode for use with bellows. The manual says with 'PB-6 bellows' but any bellows will work. The f/stop must be manually set on the lens - the shutter speed is manually set on the camera. FYI, I believe the exposure will be automatic (at any. f/stop) if you are using a recent Nikon flash connected to the camera. Another FYI, if you own an iPad, there is a Nikon Manual Viewer available through the App Store. Then, you can download any Nikon camera, flash or Nikon accessory manual directly to your iPad. Good luck.......and I hope this helps.
Oops....forgot one thing. Your 18-55 DX Nikkor lens does not have the ability to manually set the f/stop. You'll have to shoot wide open or (much better), buy an old style 24mm Nikkor lens (cheap) that has a 52mm filter size ,and a reversing ring to fit Nikon (52mm to Nikon reversing ring). By using this lens in reverse you can get much higher magnifications and be able to manually set the f/stop.
Candido, thanks for the question. Short answer is 'yes'. Remember, one of the most difficult problems in photomacrography is critical focussing. Some bellows have a way to move it forward and back to assist focussing (some better than others). I recommend the x-y slider system mounted to the tripod to make focussing easier but there is no reason you can't use it directly on a tripod. Good luck. Happy shooting. And stay safe.
In my opinion, a bellows must always be mounted on a tripod. All of them come with a 1/4 - 20 thread for mounting on a standard tripod. Any movement or vibration while trying to focus and shoot is your enemy. The more sturdy the tripod the better.
Thanks for your question. I use various methods to focus subjects including LiveView and connecting the camera to a computer. All methods work well. From personal experience, I find critical focusing (such as high magnification with very narrow depth-of-field) more difficult using only the camera LCD screen. My personal preference is to use the camera eyepiece when possible (and appropriate) since it doesn't rely on having anything else connected to the camera. Personally, I find the LCD screen excellent for composition, but less useful for critical focusing - especially for high magnification applications. Bottom line - it's whatever works for you. Experience and practice is what will determine what works best for you.
In a studio setting ie: a stationary controlled subject it is alleys more accurate to focus threw live view because you can zoom into the live veiw screen to see very closely to your subject and see if it is in focus when viewed as a crop of the full photo whereas the a view finder you are basically guessing if it will be in focus. Once you crop in tight on a photo shot threw a view finder is even you notice the detail falls apart whereas a photo focused threw a zoomed in live view crop will always be far more accurate. Just sayin💁💁 i personally shoot lots of insects so i generally tends to use viewfinder mostly because of ease of tracking an unpredictable subject but i often find that after cropping in to the shot that i have missed focus on the eyes even though threw the view finder it appeared as though i had focus.. Stationary or slow moving subjects i will always use cropped in live view to get an accurate focus on the eyes
Hey, professor thanks for the super clear and concise class. I'm a beginner to macro photography who has most of the necessary gear except knowledge of subject lighting. I'll experiment with all that I have learned today. The good thing about digital photography is the absence of film and development costs and not having to wait for days to see the results or failures. All that's needed on my part is practise, practise, practise. Thanks for your time and lesson. Bookmarked for future reference.
Thank you Gale for your trust in the FISSO articulated arms. Always a pleasure to watch your Masterclass
This is the best explained video of high magnification photography I have found on RUclips, cheers!!!!!
Eduardo, thanks for your comment. I just finished a biomedical/forensic workshop here in Melbourne and have created a couple of 'photomac fanatics'. High mag photography is simply fun!
Thank you, Prof. Spring. Refreshing to see someone who knows his subject. Too many 'amateurs' ( I am one of them! ☺) dabble into macro without bringing the scientific calculations to determine the magnification. I bought in the 70s a series of books from "Time Life". One of them contained such explanations but I was never able to use them in a modern digital context. Now, I will be able to do it. I am also impressed by your splendid followup to the questions or reactions.
Thank you, Sir!
Anyone who ever tried macro bellows work with a film camera, (especially slide film), and manual flash knows what a Godsend digital is. With film, it was often hit-and-miss, and you had better like math!
Olympus had a phenomenal macro system back in the day, I wish I could have afforded to buy into their system.
What an excellent video!
Even though it was some years ago, it really explains a lot of important details about macro bellows photography. I’ll listen to most of it, except I will use Panasonic and Olympus cameras, flashes, bellows and lenses, not Nikon. Thanks
Great video. Thank you for taking the time to put it together. Very helpful
Great video! does anyone know where can I get that fiber optic attachment for the flash?
You don’t need a reverse lens mount with a Nikon pb6 bellows. You can just screw the lens to the inner front of the bellows backwards and then attach the front focus mount to the lens.
Suggestion, consider using a focus rail not on the camera but on the subject which might be considerably lighter than the huge camera/bellows rig and be less likely to move inappropriately between shots. This allows the camera to be firmly attached to a platform and does not require as heavy duty (expensive) focus rail.
I need some advice. I have NIKON d5300. I plan to go with the same setup as yours in the video. However, I'd like to try using a microscope objective instead of the reversed camera lens. I know there are a ton of adapters available but I dont know where to start. My guess is to start with a camera to bellows adapter that will connect the two. Then find an adapter to fit the other end of the bellows that will fit the microscope lens. Of course I be using a 4-way macro slider connected to the base of the bellows....like yours....with the exception, no tripod, instead I will be using a solid table equipped with a 24" by 24" PVC cage to attach my lights. When using a microscope objective I think there would be greater magnification...more then the standard reversed 50mm for example. The term "macro photograpy now becomes "extreme macro photography". Now then....I have seen photos where instead of a single bug fills the frame, its entire head fills the frame showing g every detail.
I have always been interested in photography. However...macro/micro opens up an entire new world. With today's digital one can get amazing results. Photo stacking is one of the methods not available back when I owned my first Nikon in 1976. Back then i was in the U.S. Navy. While visiting the Acropolis, in Greece, I took a fall with my camera hanging around my neck. Needless to say... I banged up my camera on the rocks. The outer edge of the lens housing, where one screws on filters, was dented badly. The reverse lens system....well...no way now. Anyway.......
My question would be....Do you thing the reverse lens would be better then the microscope objective? I can always find another used 50mm on Amazon or Ebay for about $75.00. The microscope objective is at about the same price. Anyway....opinion on this please. www.Dockside.dh@gmail.com
Thanks for your questions. I'll try a short reply. If you need more info, happy to respond again. You can get an RMS (microscope objective thread) to T-mount adapter on Ebay. Then get the T-mount to Nikon adapter. As for the microscope objective, I recommend a 4x Plan objective. ('Plan' refers to a flat field objective but some people have success using only an achromat objective.) Using a bellows, that will give you pretty high magnification (certainly a lot more than a reversed camera lens). The 4x objective will be optimised for a certain bellows extension. Experimentation will reveal the best results for focusing and sharpness. It does not allow you to choose an f-stop. It will not give you very much depth of field (you could say none). If you use stacking software, you can shoot a series at different planes of focus and create images that demonstrate more depth of field. (I use Zerene Stacker software but others work equally as well.) Using microscope objectives on bellow is challenging. Try it and get back to me. Good luck.
It may be a while before I can adventure into this. After making a few purchases online, which include a new Nikon d5300 and a few other accessaries I'm finding that covid-19 has created some delays in shipping.
My avenue of approach is going to be the use of microscope objectives. I'm looking to buy something that will give me around 4x magnification. Alan Walls video on RUclips put this thought into my head. He states in his video there is a very good objective for a very reasonable price on Ebay. My Nikor 50mm 1:2 would be great for reversal method but the female 52mm is damaged. It still is ok...but I can't even use filters with it. Replacing the lens means buying a used one or buying another old camera. The microscope objective I'm finding would be cheaper as it sells for around $20 and adapters needed are not expensive. Alan Walls says use a M39 adapter then to whatever I need for the bellows. Again....I need to order bellows. I'm going to wait until shipping issues is over.
@@davidhefner5668 David, your 50mm would give you 4x with good quality. I like a Nikon 35mm f/2 used in the reverse position. As for adapters, most (not all) microscope lenses use an RMS thread (Royal Microscopical Society). You will need an RMS to whatever (M39 Leica, M42, etc.) and eventually something with a Nikon mount (assuming you are using a Nikon bellows). I appreciate the problem of ordering on line and shipping problems right now. We are having the same issue in Australia. Ironic that currently we have (forced) time to do projects but can't always get our hands on the right toys! Good luck. Gale
Now I can do the size calculations plus get greater Magnification by adding bellows to my Canon 65 Macro which has 5x already.
Excellent education.. I was thinking of selling a bellows I have never used.. Now I am thinking.. 'Don't be so hasty..' P.S.. Using the Fiber Optic is a neat addition..
@@galespring9028 Thank you for reply Gale.. You have achieved so much and I am impressed.. Congrats for that.. Immediately after I watched this excellent little tutorial I ran for the bellows and tried it out posting result to a FaceBook group and shared your tutorial.. It is thanks to you that I am inspired to do a lot more of Macro work..
Thank you :) Great video. The scientific side of photography is seemingly sometimes hard to find in art school.
I'm afraid you're correct. The 'technical' side of photography has been dying in university courses and programs for years. Ours at RMIT University in Australia may have been the last one embracing theory as a core. It concerns me to discover how much is not known about how an image is created and how the lack of knowledge affects the interpretation of a photograph. This is all in the context of forensic matters where someone may go to prison (or not, but should) due to the misinterpretation of images. Oh well...as long s it looks good??!...
Because they're primarily concerned with the art aspect of photography. And most photographers hate complex math let alone physics of optics
Excellent work
Note to the Cinematographer: don't pan your camera when the instructor is also panning his camera via the focusing rail!
The result is the viewer does not get the point that the instructor's camera is moving sideways!
Perfectly exposed means 4 stops over exposed?
I agree that image as it appears in this video was very over exposed, with significant blown out high lights and loss of detail in the leaf
The Estate Gallery LLC TEG Auction Services I guess he likes it?
Thank you very much professor for sharing your knownledge. I would like to ask you about using microscope lenses mounted on bellows vs reversed camera lenses. Is there any relevant difference in image quality (sharpness, contrast, distortion)? I hope you could read my question 🙏🏼 and give me a few words on that respect.
Thank you very much Professor for your words. I've been experimenting with a 10x objective and I have had lots of fun doing it. I wasn't aware of the aperture in objectives so I will try to work with one that has aperture ring. Again, thank you for answering my question, I really appreciate it.
Great video! Thank you! Could you share your source for the A clamp articulated arms and the small platform you are using to place the articulated arm on, in front of the camera?
Fisso arm
Thank You for a great video. What is the brand of the rail system.
Thanks
Jerry
I assume you are not using a manual bellows. For the flash to communicate to your camera does the bellows have to have a electronic connection with lens and camera?
For the mathematically challenged among us, would you explain how to calculate magnification? I counted ~8 mm shown on the scale card at the 13:11 mark in the video. Assuming you're using a full-frame 35mm camera, I divided 35mm by 8 mm; the answer is 4.375, assuming my math is correct. What if the camera uses a crop sensor such as APS-C? Thanks for your help!
No need for an apology, Gale. Your detailed reply is sincerely appreciated!
Sir, how do you get the fiber optic tube connected to the flash?
Very good informational video, but the images were not properly exposed they were overexposed, as commercial product macro photographers at our firm we manually adjust our exposure even with our macro work, even the best TTL systems are often fooled into the wrong exposure as was the case in this video.
I am having a hard time copying a slide on a apsc camera (sony a6000) adapted with a Metabones ring to an old BPM bellows with Nikkor 50mm. When properly focused only part of the slide appears on the viewer. Can you advise me how to Ho around this problem?
Hi. It is not clear to me how you were able to use the wireless flash units for correct exposure when the lens is not directly attached to the camera. I have always been of the view that in order for that to happen the lens must have contact pins and be directly in contact with the contact pins of the camera.
Sorry for the delay in answering your question. Consider it Nikon magic! I use the R1C1 Nikon flash kit. The 'C' stands for 'Commander' and it attaches to the hot shoe of the camera and communicates exposure information between the remote flashes and the camera. The independent flash units (the R1's) communicate with the Commander unit through an infrared signal to control the exposure. With most (but not all) of the Nikon camera models, you can set the camera to read the actual light entering the camera through the aperture. This is a manual aperture setting so the lens does not have to be connected to the camera, therefore; it works with accessories like bellows and extension tubes. So just like an automatic dedicated flash on the camera, the shutter opens, the Commander unit via infrared tells the flashes to fire, the flashes fire, the Commander unit turns the flashes off via an infrared signal when the camera has sensed a 'proper' exposure. As I said, It's Nikon magic.......or actually, physics! (Note, many of the new Nikon camera models now have the Commander unit built into the camera body so they don't require the big unit to attach to the hot shoe. Technology is definitely heading towards infrared (wireless) controls.
Thank you sir, for informative video 🙏
Hello budy, how are you!! Where can I get this fiber optic hose? and this ruler too? another question does this fiber optic hose illuminate the same light that a flash emits? Thank you
Thanks for your question. I have fibre optics from Elinchrom and Broncolor. Both companies make (or at least use to make) fibre optic kits. Check with your local camera dealer and see if they can source the kit or a replacement fibre optic. (Warning: they are pricy.) Each brand has a slightly different size mount but you can drill out any size mounting hole depending on what you are attaching it on to. The color temperature of the light coming out of the fibre optic matches the source. On electronic flash, the color temperature is basically balanced for daylight (or about 5500 to 6000 degrees Kelvin).
The scales are from The Safari Group (Lightning Powder). Do an Internet search for their web site. On their site, search Products/Forensics/Crime scene documentation/Rulers& scales.
@@galespring6447 Thank you very much for sharing this knowledge with us.
Ty ☕️
What is that amazing little holding arm called? at 3:41
Gitzo / Manfrotto makes a Magic Arm which is very similar and well made, also. Most professional camera stores should have them.
www.manfrotto.us/magic-photo-arm-smart-centre-lever-and-flexible-extension
FISSO arm
Thank you!
So TTL flash works despite no electronic coupling between the bellows and camera ?
Gale Spring thanks for the exhaustive reply. I have always thought digital camera can't meter flash off the sensor like film cameras do, so I was wondering where does the pre-flash measurement take place ? From the camera body or from the wireless flash in this case ?
Originally, TTL flash photography did rely on light reflecting off the film (so it was also called OTF or Off-The-Film) during the exposure. With digital cameras the electronics for reading light are in the camera and they 'talk' to the flash during the exposure. It works...it's magic. Remember, different manufacturers will have solved this in different ways so you may want to talk to the manufacturer to understand how their system works.
8:26,i thought,it was around 4.2 X magnification.
where do you buy a fiso arm, lab jack and x,y,slider?
Fisso arm at www.fisso.com
I bought a bellows to do macro Photography Hooked up to my Nikon D3100 and my 18-55 DX Nikkor lens and it said lens not connected to CPU can you help me.
Leonard, thanks for your question. Some models of Nikon cameras will not work if it does not sense a lens attached. The D3100 may be one of those models. I'll check further and try to get you an answer. Check the owner's manual (a daunting experience) and see if it mentions how to activate the shutter with no lens attached. Also, try setting the camera to manual mode. You may have to set it in shutter speed priority mode first to set a shutter speed through a command dial, then move to manual mode. Good luck. I'll try to get back soon.
Leonard, I have downloaded and read the D3100 manual. Info is always a bit hard to find - especially in manuals. It says the camera must be used in 'manual' mode for use with bellows. The manual says with 'PB-6 bellows' but any bellows will work. The f/stop must be manually set on the lens - the shutter speed is manually set on the camera. FYI, I believe the exposure will be automatic (at any. f/stop) if you are using a recent Nikon flash connected to the camera. Another FYI, if you own an iPad, there is a Nikon Manual Viewer available through the App Store. Then, you can download any Nikon camera, flash or Nikon accessory manual directly to your iPad. Good luck.......and I hope this helps.
Oops....forgot one thing. Your 18-55 DX Nikkor lens does not have the ability to manually set the f/stop. You'll have to shoot wide open or (much better), buy an old style 24mm Nikkor lens (cheap) that has a 52mm filter size ,and a reversing ring to fit Nikon (52mm to Nikon reversing ring). By using this lens in reverse you can get much higher magnifications and be able to manually set the f/stop.
@@galespring6447 Yes thanks alot
can the bellow be set on a tripod
Candido, thanks for the question. Short answer is 'yes'. Remember, one of the most difficult problems in photomacrography is critical focussing. Some bellows have a way to move it forward and back to assist focussing (some better than others). I recommend the x-y slider system mounted to the tripod to make focussing easier but there is no reason you can't use it directly on a tripod. Good luck. Happy shooting. And stay safe.
In my opinion, a bellows must always be mounted on a tripod. All of them come with a 1/4 - 20 thread for mounting on a standard tripod. Any movement or vibration while trying to focus and shoot is your enemy. The more sturdy the tripod the better.
I'm confused: he's in Australia, but his accent is American, but he called a flashlight a torch. Dude, where you from?
Earth....and I speak many languages!! Gale
Why didn't he turn on the Liveview mode to focus the subject?
Thanks for your question. I use various methods to focus subjects including LiveView and connecting the camera to a computer. All methods work well. From personal experience, I find critical focusing (such as high magnification with very narrow depth-of-field) more difficult using only the camera LCD screen. My personal preference is to use the camera eyepiece when possible (and appropriate) since it doesn't rely on having anything else connected to the camera. Personally, I find the LCD screen excellent for composition, but less useful for critical focusing - especially for high magnification applications. Bottom line - it's whatever works for you. Experience and practice is what will determine what works best for you.
Nguyễn Xuân Kiên no all cameras have the electrónic zoom in the liveview.
In a studio setting ie: a stationary controlled subject it is alleys more accurate to focus threw live view because you can zoom into the live veiw screen to see very closely to your subject and see if it is in focus when viewed as a crop of the full photo whereas the a view finder you are basically guessing if it will be in focus. Once you crop in tight on a photo shot threw a view finder is even you notice the detail falls apart whereas a photo focused threw a zoomed in live view crop will always be far more accurate. Just sayin💁💁 i personally shoot lots of insects so i generally tends to use viewfinder mostly because of ease of tracking an unpredictable subject but i often find that after cropping in to the shot that i have missed focus on the eyes even though threw the view finder it appeared as though i had focus.. Stationary or slow moving subjects i will always use cropped in live view to get an accurate focus on the eyes
Look at the title and then what was explained...:((