I have an '89 GMC Tracker that I had the head rebuilt and all gaskets, belts, pulleys, distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, and hoses replaced and a new water pump, new thermostat and rad cap, and timing cover installed. I watched your videos many times and it helped me a lot. I also back flushed my heater core and now have heat again too. Its fun to drive again with definitely more power. Thanks for the
Am curious as to the same procedures on a G13BA engine, as found in the 1992 holden barina, AKA suzuki swift, the 1.3L samurai and the 1.3L sidekick, all have a carby setup, are these engines identical or similar to the idea of swapping parts over and general maintenance, why I ask, there's not many videos available here in Australia, to do with the holden barina, tho for the many suzuki's there are tons of good clear videos to carry out maintenance, so can i use any of the 3 suzuki's mentioned ??? thanks folks
Great example, can even be used in schools to explain timing belt changes :). Sure it's a 8 valve and simple engine with one tensioner. But due to that it's a great example.
What about the crankshaft pulley torque? The five 8mm bolts...you didn't show that. Maybe you have that covered in another video...but what do you torque those five bolts to?
Yes, in a couple of other videos, the crankshaft pulley bolt is 80-94 ft pounds (book says 76 to 83, but tech bulletin raised that by about 10ftLbs), the camshaft pulley bolt is 41-46 ft pounds, and the little size 8 bolts on the lower fan belt pulley that bolts to the timing belt pulley are 10 to 13 ft pounds. I put more info on my face book page than here. facebook.com/SidekickRebuild
Thanks @@nunapitchuk ! I might want to re-torque mine. Most of the torque specs I came across were around 8ft lbs. But it appears Suzuki changed that as well. I seen this on one of the websites: Crankshaft pulley bolts 8mm head. In 1992 both GEO’s & Suzuki motors changed part numbers of the bolt. {harder?} THIS BOLT M6 HAS A NON ISO HEAD, its 8mm hex wrench 7.0 - 8.8 [89-91′] 12 - 13 [92+] Fortunately I didn't have to deal with the 17mm Crankshaft Bolt. I suffered a cataclysmic failure with my timing belt...it looked worse than the 1980 Mt Saint Helens eruption here in Washington. Fortunately it didn't take as long to clean up :P I think what happened was the alternator belt walked off the pulley, cut a slot in the plastic timing belt cover, exploded the timing belt...and for some unknown reason the serpentine belt came off...which still looks new. I suspect the top 13mm or 12mm bolt in the alternator mounting bracket that was missing triggered the entire event. Just got it semi back together yesterday and it is running great! I don't have the serpentine belt on yet nor the timing belt cover or radiator shroud. I just wanted to see how it ran while waiting for my timing cover to arrive. I have a brand new Suzuki timing belt cover coming from the Bay area Saturday. I think he's the only guy in the US that has the timing belt cover for the 1.6 liter 16 valve engines. Spendy @ $70 + shipping...but it is the OEM part and comes with the dust seal also. By the way...controversy on the net whether these engines are interference or non interference. But the evidence I've seen says they are an inference engine. However...I suffered no valve damage from my timing belt failure not have I read on the net about anybody else claiming they damaged their engine from a timing belt failure. Thanks for your reply...and as you've heard...you have excellent videos.
@@dandettmann595 Thanks, I just make videos for fun and to share what I have learned. About interference, I know for sure at low rpm this is a non-interference engine. I have taken the timing belt off and turned the crank fully around with the cam at various positions and never did the piston hit a valve. Having said that, Fixkick said that at high rpm, don't know how high, the engine could become an interference engine. I don't know if that is true, but it would explain why so many people insist that it is an interference engine. I bought a timing belt cover from ebay for the same price -- crazy amount for a molded piece of plastic! Thought about trying to make my own mold. Ha. I recommend doing a compression check on all 4 just to be sure all the valves are sealed good (all plugs out, throttle valve wide open, coil wire off, should be 190 to 200 psi). Less psi is OK so long as they are all very close to the same psi. Just a suggestion. Good luck.
I just used the spring tension as per instructions, but I did add just a hair more by pushing the belt to help the spring and then letting off slow so the spring would be at its maximum tension before tightening everything.
I am sure it is possible. Might not be easy. Probably have to change motor mounts and transmission mounts and switch out the computer and do a lot of wiring. Good luck with your project.
Great video Frank! I Installed my timing belt exactly like your video instructions. Now I am ready to fire her up. Where should my distributor rotor point?
Yes, it is a 1.6L, 16 Valve engine. Also note that this is specific to certain model years ('93 to '95 I think). After a long discussion with another owner we discovered that he had a head from another model year and the cam shaft was set up differently on his. You can use logic to figure it out by looking at the valve positions when the cam timing mark is aligned in the straight up position.
The little nub that sticks out goes in the E slot. At the beginning of the video you see there are two slots that it could go on. One is "I" and oriented to the upper left side (like around 10 O' Clock) and the other is "E" straight down at 6 O' Clock. The one that is straight down has the little metal nub in it. Does that answer your question?
![[ES] Watch and Work - Suzuki Baleno 1.6l 72kw](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KuqoXv3AK30/mqdefault.jpg)
I have an '89 GMC Tracker that I had the head rebuilt and all gaskets, belts, pulleys, distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, and hoses replaced and a new water pump, new thermostat and rad cap, and timing cover installed. I watched your videos many times and it helped me a lot. I also back flushed my heater core and now have heat again too. Its fun to drive again with definitely more power. Thanks for the
This is the best explanation of belt change I have seen yet. Good job .
Nice video, simple, good information, brief yet complete. Good Job!
Good job
Am curious as to the same procedures on a G13BA engine, as found in the 1992 holden barina, AKA suzuki swift, the 1.3L samurai and the 1.3L sidekick, all have a carby setup, are these engines identical or similar to the idea of swapping parts over and general maintenance, why I ask, there's not many videos available here in Australia, to do with the holden barina, tho for the many suzuki's there are tons of good clear videos to carry out maintenance, so can i use any of the 3 suzuki's mentioned ??? thanks folks
I would recommend trying the Suzuki Sidekick/Geo Tracker face book groups.
Great example, can even be used in schools to explain timing belt changes :). Sure it's a 8 valve and simple engine with one tensioner. But due to that it's a great example.
Once all bolts have been torqued to specs, I remove the spring, over time some times they can come loose and cause damage.
Yes, I've read that before. I think I actually did take the spring out on the last time I had it apart.
After tightening you can take the spring out. It can fall out . And it has no use after tightening.
Didn't think of that, but it makes sense. Thanks.
What about the crankshaft pulley torque?
The five 8mm bolts...you didn't show that.
Maybe you have that covered in another video...but what do you torque those five bolts to?
Yes, in a couple of other videos, the crankshaft pulley bolt is 80-94 ft pounds (book says 76 to 83, but tech bulletin raised that by about 10ftLbs), the camshaft pulley bolt is 41-46 ft pounds, and the little size 8 bolts on the lower fan belt pulley that bolts to the timing belt pulley are 10 to 13 ft pounds. I put more info on my face book page than here. facebook.com/SidekickRebuild
Thanks @@nunapitchuk !
I might want to re-torque mine.
Most of the torque specs I came across were around 8ft lbs.
But it appears Suzuki changed that as well.
I seen this on one of the websites:
Crankshaft pulley bolts 8mm head. In 1992 both GEO’s & Suzuki motors changed part numbers of the bolt. {harder?} THIS BOLT M6 HAS A NON ISO HEAD, its 8mm hex wrench 7.0 - 8.8 [89-91′]
12 - 13 [92+]
Fortunately I didn't have to deal with the 17mm Crankshaft Bolt.
I suffered a cataclysmic failure with my timing belt...it looked worse than the 1980 Mt Saint Helens eruption here in Washington.
Fortunately it didn't take as long to clean up :P
I think what happened was the alternator belt walked off the pulley, cut a slot in the plastic timing belt cover, exploded the timing belt...and for some unknown reason the serpentine belt came off...which still looks new.
I suspect the top 13mm or 12mm bolt in the alternator mounting bracket that was missing triggered the entire event.
Just got it semi back together yesterday and it is running great!
I don't have the serpentine belt on yet nor the timing belt cover or radiator shroud.
I just wanted to see how it ran while waiting for my timing cover to arrive.
I have a brand new Suzuki timing belt cover coming from the Bay area Saturday.
I think he's the only guy in the US that has the timing belt cover for the 1.6 liter 16 valve engines.
Spendy @ $70 + shipping...but it is the OEM part and comes with the dust seal also.
By the way...controversy on the net whether these engines are interference or non interference.
But the evidence I've seen says they are an inference engine.
However...I suffered no valve damage from my timing belt failure not have I read on the net about anybody else claiming they damaged their engine from a timing belt failure.
Thanks for your reply...and as you've heard...you have excellent videos.
@@dandettmann595 Thanks, I just make videos for fun and to share what I have learned. About interference, I know for sure at low rpm this is a non-interference engine. I have taken the timing belt off and turned the crank fully around with the cam at various positions and never did the piston hit a valve. Having said that, Fixkick said that at high rpm, don't know how high, the engine could become an interference engine. I don't know if that is true, but it would explain why so many people insist that it is an interference engine. I bought a timing belt cover from ebay for the same price -- crazy amount for a molded piece of plastic! Thought about trying to make my own mold. Ha. I recommend doing a compression check on all 4 just to be sure all the valves are sealed good (all plugs out, throttle valve wide open, coil wire off, should be 190 to 200 psi). Less psi is OK so long as they are all very close to the same psi. Just a suggestion. Good luck.
The tension in the belt is given ONLY by the tensioning spring? Or do you need to tight it more?
I just used the spring tension as per instructions, but I did add just a hair more by pushing the belt to help the spring and then letting off slow so the spring would be at its maximum tension before tightening everything.
Thank you ...finally the best dam video for doing this job DIY 😘
Thanks. So glad I was helpful.
hey nice vid can u do one with distributors timing?
Yes, done. Search my videos and you will see it.
Hello,
Is it possible to replace a Suzuki Alto 3 cylindre12 V petrol engine by a 4 cylindres engine 16v ?
I am sure it is possible. Might not be easy. Probably have to change motor mounts and transmission mounts and switch out the computer and do a lot of wiring. Good luck with your project.
thanks for the informaticion. excelent video.
Great video Frank! I Installed my timing belt exactly like your video instructions. Now I am ready to fire her up. Where should my distributor rotor point?
Thanks. I sent a reply on my face book page.
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That wasn't so bad, I remember back in the day replacing the rubber band on the Ford pinto's
That's amazing. thanks for your help 👍🤸
I'm sorry can you verify if this 1.6l 16valve or 8 valves? It looks like 16v
Yes, it is a 1.6L, 16 Valve engine. Also note that this is specific to certain model years ('93 to '95 I think). After a long discussion with another owner we discovered that he had a head from another model year and the cam shaft was set up differently on his. You can use logic to figure it out by looking at the valve positions when the cam timing mark is aligned in the straight up position.
Can't that belt be changed for a metal one?
I don't think so, but with a lot of changes and maybe some custom cogs it might be possible.
Zeitgeister no, only newer cars COME as chains. 2003 and old ALL rubber/Nylon mixed belts
Calidad de esplicacion colega gracias
มีสอนตั้งสายพาน F6A 3 สูบ ครับ
ฉันไม่รู้เกี่ยวกับเครื่องยนต์ F6A ขอโทษครับ.
Best video test is similar for the Daewoo tico
hello, I have a question
where is the bolt put on side I or on side E?
I hope you can answer me
Thank you
The little nub that sticks out goes in the E slot. At the beginning of the video you see there are two slots that it could go on. One is "I" and oriented to the upper left side (like around 10 O' Clock) and the other is "E" straight down at 6 O' Clock. The one that is straight down has the little metal nub in it. Does that answer your question?
@@nunapitchuk
thanks for the reply
that's just what I wanted to know
have a good day
congratulations very good videos
Nice video
God bless you🙏🙏🙏
Gracias
Thank
Video süper tankyou
yo tengo un Chevrolet Cors esteem y kiero saber como se ubican los piñones del sigueñal yalbol de leva
I am sorry. I don't know anything about that kind of car. Good luck.
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Ooo
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