Thanks for the info. You mentioned - its all about getting your experience. That includes for me to get started and make own learnings. Weather might be different / climat as well, here in europe might be different like in US, altitude, area where is a lot of humidity etc... but that i absolutely can underline is - you need to have a flat base - I invested to little time in having a solid and flat base as i started and after 2 years using the beams i saw that they are everything but not flat at all. Maybe something to add i have learned as well - keep woodstack accessable, especially if you mix speciec / projects in one stack. Im not running a lumber business so its not that critical if i spent a whole day in pick and placing boards from on stack to another one to access the lumber im seaking for - but what i have learned is, that if lumber is not dead straight, and if you re-stack them somewhere else, the stack will get instabile and will not be so solid standing as before. What else have i learned - if you stack lumber on concrete floor, consider concrete like grass - it will drag moisture up into the lumber - i always use a 10x10cm = 4x4" at least to get it way from the ground. If you dont do this - your 1-2 very bottom boards will look like the 2-3 top boards if you dont use any cover. What i have learned is that even if you do everything right, there will be lumber which twists und turns, bows and what not - no matter what you are doing - accept it, if usable for something - good, otherwise dont mess around with it - it will burn and heat your home. Sticker stain - i alway try to use the same lumber for sticker the boards a from - i know that if you want to fight powder post beatle etc... that not the best.
@@hillcustomlumber primarily personal use, re-sided our old bank barn in hemlock. But we’ve been getting more nice sawlogs than firewood delivered from the tree guys lately so I’d like to start marketing lumber/slabs a little more seriously
Thanks for this video. I use worn sander belt from a plywood, particle board mill. Just cut it so it isn't a loop anymore and lay it on top, but you have to put some heavy stuff on top so it doesn't blow away. I have found that the heat from the sun on that hot sander belt dries the top layer or 2 too quickly so I put sacrificial lumber on the top 2 rows.
@@hillcustomlumber It did i was watching another guy and he had canvas covering his timber and i just started questioning myself about that and of course i kept thinking that could be wrong and when you mentioned Mould it was like getting hit by a falling log i wouldnt be doing that
I’m in the early stages of building a kiln. I’ve purchased a Nyle L200S. My initial layout would allow for drying to 17’ long. For your drying needs, is that long enough? What’s the longest you’re able to dry?
I have no idea how much you intend to dry or what your needs are, but I wouldn’t have a kiln I couldn’t double stack at least to 8’ stacks end to end. That’s why I love my container kiln so much, I have 34’ to mix and match lengths and get multiple stacks in. I rarely deal with lumber over 16’ but occasionally do up to 20’. A good rule of thumb is to be able to dry as long as you can saw!
New to all this and have a Nyle kiln coming in a few weeks. Want to run a batch of black walnut first. Can I put it in green? Want to start getting a return asap. 😅
You definitely can, just take your time familiarizing yourself with how it works and how to set it accordingly. I’m not sure I’d jump in with walnut from the start because of the value but it’s easier than drying oak. Good luck!
Good show Buddy! We do it all the same way! Keep it up 👍🤠
Thanks!
Excellent info and tips Cory
Thanks!
Thanks for the info. You mentioned - its all about getting your experience. That includes for me to get started and make own learnings. Weather might be different / climat as well, here in europe might be different like in US, altitude, area where is a lot of humidity etc... but that i absolutely can underline is - you need to have a flat base - I invested to little time in having a solid and flat base as i started and after 2 years using the beams i saw that they are everything but not flat at all. Maybe something to add i have learned as well - keep woodstack accessable, especially if you mix speciec / projects in one stack. Im not running a lumber business so its not that critical if i spent a whole day in pick and placing boards from on stack to another one to access the lumber im seaking for - but what i have learned is, that if lumber is not dead straight, and if you re-stack them somewhere else, the stack will get instabile and will not be so solid standing as before. What else have i learned - if you stack lumber on concrete floor, consider concrete like grass - it will drag moisture up into the lumber - i always use a 10x10cm = 4x4" at least to get it way from the ground. If you dont do this - your 1-2 very bottom boards will look like the 2-3 top boards if you dont use any cover. What i have learned is that even if you do everything right, there will be lumber which twists und turns, bows and what not - no matter what you are doing - accept it, if usable for something - good, otherwise dont mess around with it - it will burn and heat your home. Sticker stain - i alway try to use the same lumber for sticker the boards a from - i know that if you want to fight powder post beatle etc... that not the best.
Those are all solid observations, you have a good handle on it!
Great info. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
❤ Great information 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video, we run an LT40 just down the mountain from you in Nazareth PA. Small world
Nice, are you sawing for business or personal use?
@@hillcustomlumber primarily personal use, re-sided our old bank barn in hemlock. But we’ve been getting more nice sawlogs than firewood delivered from the tree guys lately so I’d like to start marketing lumber/slabs a little more seriously
Thanks for this video. I use worn sander belt from a plywood, particle board mill. Just cut it so it isn't a loop anymore and lay it on top, but you have to put some heavy stuff on top so it doesn't blow away. I have found that the heat from the sun on that hot sander belt dries the top layer or 2 too quickly so I put sacrificial lumber on the top 2 rows.
Interesting, that’s a unique solution.
Thanks Cory i was wondering about Air drying
Hopefully it helped!
@@hillcustomlumber It did i was watching another guy and he had canvas covering his timber and i just started questioning myself about that and of course i kept thinking that could be wrong and when you mentioned Mould it was like getting hit by a falling log i wouldnt be doing that
I’m in the early stages of building a kiln. I’ve purchased a Nyle L200S. My initial layout would allow for drying to 17’ long. For your drying needs, is that long enough? What’s the longest you’re able to dry?
I have no idea how much you intend to dry or what your needs are, but I wouldn’t have a kiln I couldn’t double stack at least to 8’ stacks end to end. That’s why I love my container kiln so much, I have 34’ to mix and match lengths and get multiple stacks in. I rarely deal with lumber over 16’ but occasionally do up to 20’. A good rule of thumb is to be able to dry as long as you can saw!
@ thanks, that’s very helpful! I can saw 20’ but just didn’t know if I’d need to be able to dry 20’ often enough. Thanks again!
New to all this and have a Nyle kiln coming in a few weeks. Want to run a batch of black walnut first. Can I put it in green? Want to start getting a return asap. 😅
You definitely can, just take your time familiarizing yourself with how it works and how to set it accordingly. I’m not sure I’d jump in with walnut from the start because of the value but it’s easier than drying oak. Good luck!
Dim on the stikkers?