This guy is what everyone should aspire to become in their own given professions. Deeply knowledgeable, kind, and obviously enjoys his work. Super helpful video, thank you!
Thanks for watching, and for your comment. I do enjoy my work, though I've worked many second-shift hours on a sheet metal press while saving up for the mill!
A great simple and direct explanation of important details. I've been milling for personal use for 12 years and it was a very steep learning curve and I'm still learning.
So true! Twelve years ago, there weren't nearly as many resources for learning. The whole key is in your last statement "I'm still learning". Me, too. When something unexpected happens (sometimes good, sometimes bad), stopping and trying to figure out WHY it happened and how to either make it happen again, or never repeat it. I also learn a lot from comments by people who have a different way of doing things.
Your voice, cadence, and attitude (not to mention the down-to-earth topic) brings me back to my childhood days watching Red Green. You're certainly a lot more informative, though! Thanks for the information, Dave.
Well, we do have a slightly different approach to changing oil in the family car, but I use a fair amount of duct tape on a regular basis. And I don't care whether women fine me handsome or handy, as long as they find me!
I loved your video, and it was apparent right away that you knew what you were talking about. I've been a traditional style woodcarver and furniture maker for over fifty years. My dad always told me to stack my slabs two feet off the ground, use stickers at least every two feet in a uniform vertical line, paint the end grains, edges, and both surfaces, at least 6" back from the ends to slow the drying process to reduce checking and cracking. Also, he told me to keep the sun off of it completely, and air dry one year per inch of thickness outdoors, and then two years indoors for thicker slabs. I guess that would depend on climate, but it has always served me well. Air dried lumber carves better than kiln dried. I've been using aluminum roofing paint on the ends, but I'll start using your recommendation once I review your video and learn whatever the heck that was. 😀 Great video! Thank you very much Sir!
Your dad gave you good advice! The aluminum roofing paint should work well. The advantage of Anchorseal is that it is a water-based paraffin that doesn't penetrate into the wood so it machines off easily with no residue.
@@MrProtozaur I've always wondered myself. My dad showed me the difference when I was a kid and I was amazed at how much better 'that old Pine board' carved vs the 'kiln dried board' that he had purchased. I'd sure like to know who figured that one out.
Was lucky enough to know a couple gentleman like yourself in my youth that were willing to teach me important things as you do in your videos . A really teacher you are sir.
Thanks. I owe a lot to the people who showed me things along the way. Most valuable lessons are how to stop and figure things out when they don't work the way they should the first time around. That and persistence.
Excellent! I learned something new and interesting. Seeing such large logs being processed is incredible. The video quality is top-notch. I can't wait for the next video. Continue sharing these fantastic videos!
Awwwww. Thanks for the comment. My dad worked with me at the mill until he was 91. I wouldn't trade the memories of that for anything. I hope to get my grandkids working on the mill one of these days.
Thanks! I used to teach Jr. High Industrial Arts. It has been said "when the student is ready the master will come", and I've been blessed to learn under many masters of many skills.
Can't beat learning from experience! Mostly a matter of just getting out there and not being afraid of making mistakes (as long as they don't hurt too much!). Just watched your video running the Snow Cat. Looks like an amazing part of the world!
Thanks for the drying Intel and as a former sawmill owner and woodworker I agree. It's in the relative atmosphere you are in and where you intend your product to end is where we should focus. Shalom and Blessings in our King and Savior Jesus
That goes for about anything. There's those who just jump in and do it and learn as they go, and those who learn all they can first. I imagine your first time running that feller buncher was white knuckles! Stay safe & well.
A moisture meter only reads the surface of wood. The most accurate way of knowing the moisture content is by weight over a period of the drying time. For this most valuable and accurate description of determining the moisture content in wood, have Norwood ship me a free portable sawmill like this one used in this video.😊
You're right, but I just don't have time to unbolt the trailer decking to weigh it. After the the wood has had a year or so to equalize out, the moisture meter will give a pretty good idea of the moisture content of the wood. Believe me, the Norwood mill is worth the investment!
You are so wrong in your answer. Depending on the type of meter you generally are measuring either the electric resistance. But this can be at the surface or as deep as the probes are driven in. You may also use a microwave sensor or infrared and sorry but way too involved to describe. But the only actually accurate method is the oven method. It's 100% accurate as density and mineral variation does not affect it. But it's not always a matter of removing moisture. It can be the timber needs time to dry or even needs to be dried super fast. Colouration can also be a significant factor. It is a science and as some have said it needs people to pass on the knowledge. In reality very few coming in to the industry actually want to hear. Most will fail but whose pocket suffers?
In Australia, for our native eucalyptus hardwoods, we have a rule of thumb -- Depending on latitude and altitude and seasons, one year of air drying per inch thick of slab or board. The impatient folks and commercial bean counters air dry half as long and then solar kiln to finish off.
Thanks for the comment. As I understand it, eucalyptus is a pretty difficult wood to cut! That rule of thumb is pretty universal, but depends a lot on the climate. Best to use a moisture meter in any case.
Wonderfully informative. I'm looking into getting a mill in the near future to help my retirement, and every bit of information is helpful. Easiest to get it right the first time.
Good luck with the mill. It'll keep you busy & lots of good exercise, if you don't overdo it. You won't get everything right the first time, but as long as you pay attention and use some common sense, you'll do fine.
Hey Brother appreciate your attitude and sound advice great video. I handle store bought lumber in my work alot and it was just cool to see how you have provided a great service to people with your mill and earned a living making usefull boards. God bless and take care. Nothing like the smell of fresh cut wood it is like fresh bread from the oven to me.
Wow, that was a load of great info. I found the real world examples you showed especially helpful. Subbed because I can't wait to watch and learn from your other videos!
@@daveboyt6810 Actually, neither. I heat my house with wood so I do a lot of cutting and splitting but we had two big maple trees that were dying taken down and before I could cut them up for firewood, my wife got the idea we could make them into flooring for our daughter's house renovation. I can do a bit of woodworking so I got a new retirement task. I thought I needed to know how to manage the boards for drying before the sawyer showed up. This really helped. And I really enjoy your presentation style. Thanks again
Thank you for your helpful knowledge of how wood dries over time especially in relation to the realities humidity. I also like your technique for remembering what kind of wood you cut and when you cut it with the tin lid, awesome!
Thanks, Rob! Drying is often overlooked, but it doesn't make a lot of sense to go to all the work of milling lumber just to have the boards turn into firewood because of inadequate drying. Is your interest in the video as a woodworker or a sawyer?
@@daveboyt6810 I am a hobbyist woodworker and we recently had to take down a pin oak my grandmother planted Arbor Day 1936. I purchased a 48" Granberg Alaskan chainsaw mill to slab the tree in place and eventually craft it into a dining room table.
Amazing instructions, thank you for sharing your wisdom and guidance on a super hard process that I'm just getting into. I really like how you explain things and show each step. Wish I could work under you to learn more.
Thanks for watching, and for leaving a comment. It isn't really all that difficult, once you learn a few of the basics. You might be able to find a local sawyer who would trade lessons & info for a little grunt work.
Makes sense. Also sailors "swabbed the decks" with seawater to keep the deck boards from shrinking and forming cracks. WWII aircraft carriers used wooden decks to avoid sparks that would cause fires when an aircraft made a crash landing.
I have cut 3ft live oak and red oak that read at 20% moisture straight off the sawmill. Logs can dry to some degree assuming the bark is off and it's stored off the ground.
Thanks, Austin. Woodworkers who have the opportunity to mill their own lumber have a real advantage, because they can control the cutting more carefully, and because they have a better understanding of the wood itself. Once you get sawdust in your veins, there's no turning back!
@@daveboyt6810 Yes I am crazy about guitars and music in general. If I'm not doing my farming,cutting trees or running the mill, or building something with the lumber I've got a guitar in my hand.
@@woodlandharvesthoneycompanyllc Me, too. I started out with guitars, but am currently putting my energy into learning the mountain dulcimer. I have built a number of them from wood that I milled from salvaged trees, including the one that I played for the intro to this video. It is walnut with a quarter-sawn sycamore soundboard. I've also built hammer dulcimers, a banjo and a couple of ukes. Here's another video, but I had only been playing a few weeks when it was made. ruclips.net/video/tWP2FHBCOTg/видео.html
@@daveboyt6810 That is awesome Dave. That is very special that you are playing an instrument that you built yourself from wood you milled on your mill. I mean from selecting the tree,milling and drying the lumber then building the instrument,that is really something to be proud of.
Thanks Dave, great video, much appreciated. I will now have to see if you have a video on how to stack wood for air drying. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Check out "Sawmill School - Cutting Blocking & Stickers to Air Dry Your Lumber" on RUclips at ruclips.net/video/6XXE1BcfEpA/видео.html or Sawmill TV at www.norwoodsawmills.com/tv/index.aspx?isVideo=true&id=312955927
Hi Dave. Your mannerisms make it quite relaxing to listen to you. The reason I'm making this comment, though, is to say I'm glad you have a kitty. I think it's an unwritten rule that every sawmill needs its cat. She probably brings good luck, too.
I've had a pressure treated 2x6 shrink an inch in length on a Deck before. It was soaking wet in the winter time and come spring when it warmed up, it had shrunk that much in length.
Nice video Dave. I've had a few batches of air dried. I think it's worth it if you can do it. Better color in the wood. I think the kiln dried process injects some steam. The natural wood dyes run out. Air dried just takes time.
Depends on the wood. On the down side, air drying white wood like maple can discolor, and bugs can be a problem. Industrial kilns use steam to speed up the process, but solar, dehumidification, and vacuum kilns don't. Walnut is typically steamed to turn the sapwood dark but, as you observed, it does affect the color of the heartwood.
Thanks for the info Dave. I just got a mill and am finding it's a steep learning curve. I've watched a few of your video's and finding them very helpful especially compared to some other video's out there. The biggest challenge I'm finding so far is getting a straight cut. Your video on tracking was helpful,. I'm cutting 24" spruce in 3 to 4 inch slabs for live edge benches. pretty wavy but I think I'll get it figured out.. thanks for your help.
Hi, Bruce. Thanks for the comment. I don't know what it is about spruce, but it does seem to be more difficult to cut straight that most species. It might be that 10 degrees hook angle is too aggressive, and a 7 or even a 4 degree angle would do better for you. Which mill do you have, and how are you tensioning the blade?
Great video! I have a sawmill also. Before I mill up the logs, I paint the ends of the logs to prevent checking. Each species of wood is painted a different color so it's easy to identify each species of wood later.
@@daveboyt6810 I'm using a TimberKing 1220 sawmill. I typically use AnchorSeal or white oil-based paint as the first coat on the log ends, then paint a color as a second coat to color-code the lumber. Thanks for your reply.
Thanks! Scooter's cameo appearance was unscripted, and I didn't even realize he was in the last bit of video until I edited it. My wife takes in strays.
Love his ingenuity of using can tops and a punch set to track inventory. And don't forget your moisture meter, just try to find one that gives a reading right side up. Talk about a design fail.
Judy Boyt, the artist???? If so, we're cousins, and have met a couple of times! If not, we're probably still related. We're related to Arthur Boyt... this guy ruclips.net/video/LXVY8kttUtE/видео.html .
@@daveboyt6810 Woodworker mostly. I've made some lumber. i have a ceder trunk I cut 2 yr's ago. It's 40" at base by 32'. After listening to you I realize I better get busy but I only have a 22" bar and I don't know how to cut it. Do you think I should invest in a larger bar?
@@rickrodgers9277 Depends... what size saw do you have? Do you anticipate cutting more logs in the future? In addition to the bar, you'll want a ripping chain which is filed at a flatter angle than a conventional chain. Here's a link of me quartering a sycamore log about that size so I can get it on the mill (that part starts at 15:50) ruclips.net/video/eLbnjkjXDmw/видео.html. Good luck!
Heard the man mention SWEETGUM. Does anyone know if it is worth spit for woodworking projects? I know it is terrible firewood. Please advise................Roger
Thanks for watching, and for the comment. As a chain saw mill, the Norwood mill works fine, up to about 14" diameter, if you are only milling occasionally. I'd recommend a ripping chain and at least a 70cc chain saw. Any chain saw mill is slow, noisy, and cuts a wider kerf (more sawdust, less lumber) than a band saw mill. If chain saw milling is the most practical for you, the Norwood mill is a good way to go. That said, if you can afford even the cheapest band mill (take a look at Norwood's "Frontier" line of mills, I'd recommend that.
Still a question here: What effect does leaving the bark on have? Take it off immediately? Leave it a year? It seems that it would accelerate the RATE of drying by removing it but what about the long-term effects?
On the log, I don't think there's much effect one way or the other leaving the bark on. I don't like leaving bark on the boards, though. Moisture does get trapped under it, and it's a great place for bugs.
Logs laying around without bark will begin to stain quicker than they would with the bark on. Regardless the hot summer heat is hard on logs. Especially your maple species.
HD36 is a good, solid machine. You won't need luck, just a bit of planning and a lot of hard work... and no doubt a good supply of mosquito repellant. Sounds like you've got an ideal setup for mill. Hope you'll let me know how it works out.
@@daveboyt6810 Ok the damage is done. I ordered my HD36 today. It sounds like it will be a 16 week wait until it's delivered. In the mean time I'm teaching my self how to tap maple trees and collect sap for syrup. Side not I think I turned my Dad Leland into a mega fan. I catch him watching your videos all the time. Keep up all the good work. Mike from Minnesota!
@@cryptoconstruction 16 weeks is a long wait, but maybe they'll ship it early. Some of the other manufacturers have a year and a half waiting list! Good luck with the maple syrup. Is it still sugaring season up your way? I'm getting ready to open up my bee hives in a week or two, maybe get a little honey. Greetings to your Dad. My dad worked with me until he was nearly 90, passed away at 93. Really fond memories of him working with me at the mill (mostly supervising, toward the end).
Thanks. Sometimes it's the little things like that that make a difference. It's great, when a customer asks for something specific, to locate a stack of what he's looking for.
@@daveboyt6810 I'm a fledgling student. Ha ha. I have done some sawing and built a pole barn but that was just enough to teach me I have a lot to learn.
I have done box drying. That is you use boards for stickers spaced an inch or two apart. It does leave a mark on the boards but it depends on what they are used for. Its better in a building. I suppose you can cover the pile with metal roofing. Keep the piles lowish. ,because it gets to be a pain lifting on to a high pile.You start from a level base. Lumber does dry out some during a winters storage.
Thanks for the comment. I use metal roofing, and stack them as high as the front end loader allows, putting 4x4 blocks roughly every 500 bd ft, so I can handle them. Winter drying depends on where you are. Not much takes place after the moisture in the boards turn to ice. Good point about the level base.
I'm just beginning to mill Northern California Black Walnut, juglans hindsii. I painted and waxed the ends of and air dried 3 logs approx 20" dia for 3 yrs and recently milled them, mostly at 3" but some variation. I'm getting ready to cut down one tree, 62" D and 10Ft long and I don't want to wait 3 years and mill it I want to do it Now and cut at 3+" , 6 slabs, sticker and bind them. Am I doing the right thing? There is some beautiful figure in them
Thank you very much sire you have I answered a ton of questions for me and you are so amazing I have lernd a lot from you I have a os23 and love it hope too get the os36
Thanks for the comment. I've heard that the OS mills are very capable machines, but once you get going, you'll always be looking for a bigger mill, then you'll be pushing it to the max!
Dont go off these portable mill videos. They're great and informative for homeowner use but actual sawmills are way different. You dont just rip boards left and right especially if your sawing grade.
Coming from you, that's quite a compliment! I look forward to learning from your videos, as well. I've done a bit of forging (steel, not money), and hope to get a drone in the air in the near future.
Thanks for your comment. You're out of my league on video production, but I would welcome suggestions on improving audio quality for outdoor shooting at the sawmill. Would a separate audio recorder in addition to the shotgun mic on the camera help? I'm on a tight budget and don't need stereo... and I've lost track of the number of times I forgot to turn on the mic.
@@daveboyt6810 Sorry, I took so long to reply. The most cost effective way to capture clean remote audio is with a lapel mic connected to a cell phone or other pocket recorder via 3.5mm jack. You can find a wide variety of them on Amazon. I think Shure sells a fairly good one for about $60. The cheaper $30 ones aren't bad either. Just make sure you have a good wind filter(the foam ball, or dead cat style) on it. The down side is realigning the audio with the video in post production. It helps if you start each shot with a clap that is visible on camera. That lets you pick the frame where the noise happened and sync them up easily. If you have a bunch of different shots this can take up some time. That's why people are willing to spend a bit more on a wireless lav system. I tried some of the cheaper versions, but I can confirm you get what you pay for there. Static and interference is a big issue with the cheaper versions. I settled on a Sony UWP system which I've found to be clear as a bell. One benefit of using a secondary recording device, assuming your camera doesn't have multiple audio inputs, is that you can keep using your shotgun mic to capture ambient audio on the camera and then blend the two audio sources in post. This will give the final production a more complete sound, where a "lav only" setup will tend to sound a bit one dimensional. Good luck and keep up the great work!
@@HaloKTS Thanks for the suggestion. I can see another advantage of the pocket recorder in that when I forget to turn on the shotgun mic, I'll still have audio. I hate it when I spend an hour shooting video (this might involve loading a log on the mill three or four times to get different camera angles), only to find no audio when I edit it. Maybe I'll make myself one of those Hollywood-style clapboards with the scene written on it. Now I know why they use 'em! Looking forward to watching more of your videos.
@@daveboyt6810 believe it or not, I've made the same mistake many times. I had to make a checklist to make sure it gets turned on. Since I do a lot of live events it's even more critical. I have nightmares about that happening at a wedding! That's why I always double check the sound and everything gets fresh batteries before we start rolling. With regard to the clapper board, you're spot on! That's exactly what they're for. Newer versions are actually wirelessly hooked into a master clock that generates matching timecodes on all the audio and video devices on set. Fancy stuff!
You're doing the right thing trying to slow down the drying. You still need to allow air circulation, so if the wood is in a closed container, you should put in some fans and have the container open for maybe a half hour at mid-morning and mid afternoon to start. End coating the logs (or boards if they're already cut) with a product like Anchorseal will help with the end checking. Your best bet is to monitor the moisture content of the wood as it dries. Banding the wood or putting weights on the stacks to keep them straight will also help. As the wood dries to under 20%, you can increase the open kiln time. Depending on species and your conditions, you should have kiln dry 1" thick lumber in around 8 weeks.
The old grapple truck is a '72 International cabover with a blown Detroit Diesel engine. It's been sitting a while, just haven't had time to work on it. I would consider offers for the truck and/or grapple, since I don't do much logging anymore.
Just bought a mill. waiting for delivery. the sawing seems pretty straight forward. the drying process seems it will be the difficult part. I appreciate videos like this!
Thanks for the question. That's called "sticker stain", and I should have addressed that in the video. Use kiln dry stickers of either a light-colored wood or of the same species as the wood you are drying, and keep the stack covered from rain and snow, and you shouldn't have any problem with it.
I wondered why you picked Neosho for a number, that's so cool you're probably less than 20 miles from us and we just bought a portable mill ourselves! Hopefully I can learn a lot from your experience!
Dave you mentioned sweet gum briefly. I'm wanting to saw some into beams for a cabin and some other for trailer decking. I've heard they twist so bad that doesn't work. What's your position on that? Jason
Good question. Sweetgum has an interlaced grain (like elm- nearly impossible to split by hand) that causes it to warp and twist as it dries. I wouldn't use it for beams for that reason, and it rots pretty quickly, so it wouldn't be great for trailer decking, either. I think the best use for sweetgum is woodworking, using kiln dry wood-- it can have some amazing grain.
Great video thanks. I do have a question, and I may be trying to teach an old dog new tricks but here goes. I notice when you make a cut you raise the head before you move the slab you cut. If you move the slab first you can say a minute and make a half a turn on the raising handle instead of several turns! Just a thought, saves some time, effort, and wear.
@@paftaf It would be the same if you were cutting a beam. I have had the same thought in the past, then realized 6 - 1” pieces is no different than 1-6” piece
I don't have a set pattern. If I moved the slab first, I'd have to walk around the mill, move the slab, then walk back around to pull the head rig back to the starting position. The way I did it in the video is more cranking, but less walking. Later in the day, if my shoulder starts to give out, I'll switch and do it as you suggested.
@@paftaf Nope. The teeth are bent alternately about .022" each way, so the kerf is twice as wide as the blade is thick. The body of the blade slides right through without touching the wood. No matter how many slabs or how thick, the only part of the blade to come in contact with the wood is the tip of the teeth.
@@paftaf Because the set of the blade takes a wider kerf than the thickness of the blade, it doesn't matter how many cuts I make, there is no weight on the blade. That's the advantage of a band saw.
Fantastic info. Just by common since I knew the driest air would get is 11 ton12% in Louisiana. But that is still denier the most of the big box stores sell
That's the difference... the big box stores have one thing in mind... PROFIT. You're right, but I wish common sense would be just a little more common.
They need high inventory turnover to stay profitable. I worked at a Lowes and we needed 1 - 2 truck loads of inventory a day to keep up. The real money is from garden material. That is always the highest sales of any big box hardware store.
Thank you, Mr. Boyt, for a great "Science!"-based exposition of the subject. It does however make one wonder how our great-grandparents constructed furniture well enough in the face of wild winter-summer humidity swings in un-air-conditioned living spaces for it to survive to pass down in heirloom/museum quality. Surely(??) most of them had only air-dried lumber to work with. Could their techniques mitigate the effects of using air-dried lumber in kiln-dried conditions? Or, could it have been they started with higher-quality wood than most of us do? One aspect comes immediately to mind: quarter-sawing. If the old-timers restricted themselves to using quarter-sawn wood only, their pieces would have enjoyed almost no shrinkage. That's where my money is. After glancing at the cost(!) of quarter-sawn, I think most of us look for "alternatives" that then require us to install a/c...
Quarter sawn lumber still shrinks as it dries-- around 4% to 5% in width, depending on species and moisture loss. That's still less than plain sawn lumber, but the important thing is that it doesn't tend to cup as it dries. Traditional techniques such as trestle tables with tapered pegs that can be tapped in to tighten it up as it dries in place, and cabinets with floating panels also compensate for seasonal drying (and swelling).
Thanks for the comment. Norwood mill won't disappoint you! I see you've uploaded a lot of aviation videos. I used to do some flying-- my favorites were a Stinson 108 and a Grumman Yankee. Always wanted to get checked out in a Beech D-18.
LOL! I think my cat just noticed yours here at the end of your video as she knocked a couple of boxes off of where she's perched while staring at the screen. Don't think she's going to be a big help when it comes time to "Sticker and Stack", though.
Thanks for watching and for leaving the comment. Yeh, Scooter has gotten so many comments, I'd oughtta give him his own channel! From you picture, I'm guessing you're a cat lover. 🙀
That is another excellent video, there is more to timber then ripping something to size and dimension as opposed to looking at what they finished product will be, which is actually a very important outcome. I have to do a deck floor on my Flat top low loader as I want to return it to its original look and function, I have finally been opening up allot of logs on my mill and playing with Horses again so I will have to post some more information out there that you may enjoy a look at. Cheers Garry from Australia and Matey your welcome if ever you do get down under
Good to hear from you, Garry. Interesting to see your work with old equipment, too. Restoring that ol' 8N Ford in my early videos is on my to-do list, and I've got a couple of 30 hp upright "Coke bottle" steam engines that I'd love to get running. Stay in touch.
This guy is what everyone should aspire to become in their own given professions. Deeply knowledgeable, kind, and obviously enjoys his work. Super helpful video, thank you!
Thanks for watching, and for your comment. I do enjoy my work, though I've worked many second-shift hours on a sheet metal press while saving up for the mill!
This guy is everyone’s best neighbor.
Thanks! People do still help each other out here in these parts. I've been on both ends of the "good neighbor" exchange many times!
A great simple and direct explanation of important details. I've been milling for personal use for 12 years and it was a very steep learning curve and I'm still learning.
So true! Twelve years ago, there weren't nearly as many resources for learning. The whole key is in your last statement "I'm still learning". Me, too. When something unexpected happens (sometimes good, sometimes bad), stopping and trying to figure out WHY it happened and how to either make it happen again, or never repeat it. I also learn a lot from comments by people who have a different way of doing things.
Thank you for educating the rest of us. Greatly appreciated
Thanks!
What happens when you use the lumber with alot of moisture in it .
It shrinks, and might warp, like the trailer decking. Depends on how you use it.
Your voice, cadence, and attitude (not to mention the down-to-earth topic) brings me back to my childhood days watching Red Green. You're certainly a lot more informative, though! Thanks for the information, Dave.
THANKS FOR SHARING WITH US DAVE. 🇺🇸✌️👍
Well, we do have a slightly different approach to changing oil in the family car, but I use a fair amount of duct tape on a regular basis. And I don't care whether women fine me handsome or handy, as long as they find me!
This is a great video, with enough technical and scientific background and smoothly explained. Thanks Mr Boyt!
Thanks for watching and the kind words. It's a pretty complex topic, and I might hit it again-- I'm always open to suggestions.
This is the best video I have seen on this subject. Plain and simple. Easy to understand and well done. Thank You...
Thanks, George. You a sawyer or woodworker?
@@daveboyt6810 Woodworker. There are more mills opening up all over the place but finding dry lumber is hard to find. Thanks again...
I loved your video, and it was apparent right away that you knew what you were talking about.
I've been a traditional style woodcarver and furniture maker for over fifty years. My dad always told me to stack my slabs two feet off the ground, use stickers at least every two feet in a uniform vertical line, paint the end grains, edges, and both surfaces, at least 6" back from the ends to slow the drying process to reduce checking and cracking. Also, he told me to keep the sun off of it completely, and air dry one year per inch of thickness outdoors, and then two years indoors for thicker slabs. I guess that would depend on climate, but it has always served me well. Air dried lumber carves better than kiln dried.
I've been using aluminum roofing paint on the ends, but I'll start using your recommendation once I review your video and learn whatever the heck that was. 😀 Great video!
Thank you very much Sir!
Your dad gave you good advice! The aluminum roofing paint should work well. The advantage of Anchorseal is that it is a water-based paraffin that doesn't penetrate into the wood so it machines off easily with no residue.
"Air dried lumber carves better than kiln dried." -- I always wondered why is that.
@@MrProtozaur I've always wondered myself. My dad showed me the difference when I was a kid and I was amazed at how much better 'that old Pine board' carved vs the 'kiln dried board' that he had purchased.
I'd sure like to know who figured that one out.
Was lucky enough to know a couple gentleman like yourself in my youth that were willing to teach me important things as you do in your videos . A really teacher you are sir.
Thanks. I owe a lot to the people who showed me things along the way. Most valuable lessons are how to stop and figure things out when they don't work the way they should the first time around. That and persistence.
The best sawmill videos on RUclips
Thanks! Do you run a mill or thinking about it?
Excellent! I learned something new and interesting. Seeing such large logs being processed is incredible. The video quality is top-notch. I can't wait for the next video. Continue sharing these fantastic videos!
Thanks for watching, and for leaving the comment!
Sir. You'd be easy to Love.. you're a good teacher and I miss my Grandpa and Dad. Thanks for being the quality gentleman you are.
Awwwww. Thanks for the comment. My dad worked with me at the mill until he was 91. I wouldn't trade the memories of that for anything. I hope to get my grandkids working on the mill one of these days.
Humble but prolific educator. Where has this breed of teachers gone?
Thanks! I used to teach Jr. High Industrial Arts. It has been said "when the student is ready the master will come", and I've been blessed to learn under many masters of many skills.
That dude has got some knowledge!
Can't beat learning from experience! Mostly a matter of just getting out there and not being afraid of making mistakes (as long as they don't hurt too much!). Just watched your video running the Snow Cat. Looks like an amazing part of the world!
@@daveboyt6810 thanks for watching. It is an amazing place.
Thanks for the drying Intel and as a former sawmill owner and woodworker I agree. It's in the relative atmosphere you are in and where you intend your product to end is where we should focus. Shalom and Blessings in our King and Savior Jesus
Aleichem shalom. Thanks for the feedback
Thank you🤙🏼🤙🏼 I’m Now subscribed to 4 RUclipsrs. Your the first in woodwork, I appreciate your wisdom🙏
Thanks for the comment & for subscribing. As they say, "good judgement comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgement.
Very excited to see you back Dave. You should do more videos
Working on another, right now.
He really is great
I do enjoy listening and watching people like yourself sharing your knowledge and experience. It is so valuable. Thank you and keep it up.
Thanks, John. Are you a woodworker or running a sawmill?
@@daveboyt6810 I am from New Zealand and I am a Carpenter by trade
God bless you. I've been sawing for 25 years and it's good that your getting the knowledge out there. People just don't get in without experience.
For the young guys
That goes for about anything. There's those who just jump in and do it and learn as they go, and those who learn all they can first. I imagine your first time running that feller buncher was white knuckles! Stay safe & well.
A moisture meter only reads the surface of wood.
The most accurate way of knowing the moisture content is by weight over a period of the drying time.
For this most valuable and accurate description of determining the moisture content in wood, have Norwood ship me a free portable sawmill like this one used in this video.😊
You're right, but I just don't have time to unbolt the trailer decking to weigh it. After the the wood has had a year or so to equalize out, the moisture meter will give a pretty good idea of the moisture content of the wood. Believe me, the Norwood mill is worth the investment!
You are so wrong in your answer.
Depending on the type of meter you generally are measuring either the electric resistance. But this can be at the surface or as deep as the probes are driven in.
You may also use a microwave sensor or infrared and sorry but way too involved to describe.
But the only actually accurate method is the oven method. It's 100% accurate as density and mineral variation does not affect it.
But it's not always a matter of removing moisture.
It can be the timber needs time to dry or even needs to be dried super fast.
Colouration can also be a significant factor.
It is a science and as some have said it needs people to pass on the knowledge. In reality very few coming in to the industry actually want to hear. Most will fail but whose pocket suffers?
In Australia, for our native eucalyptus hardwoods, we have a rule of thumb -- Depending on latitude and altitude and seasons, one year of air drying per inch thick of slab or board. The impatient folks and commercial bean counters air dry half as long and then solar kiln to finish off.
Thanks for the comment. As I understand it, eucalyptus is a pretty difficult wood to cut! That rule of thumb is pretty universal, but depends a lot on the climate. Best to use a moisture meter in any case.
Wonderfully informative. I'm looking into getting a mill in the near future to help my retirement, and every bit of information is helpful. Easiest to get it right the first time.
Good luck with the mill. It'll keep you busy & lots of good exercise, if you don't overdo it. You won't get everything right the first time, but as long as you pay attention and use some common sense, you'll do fine.
Hey Brother appreciate your attitude and sound advice great video. I handle store bought lumber in my work alot and it was just cool to see how you have provided a great service to people with your mill and earned a living making usefull boards. God bless and take care. Nothing like the smell of fresh cut wood it is like fresh bread from the oven to me.
Thanks, Edward. Yeh, I can pretty much tell what kind of wood I'm cutting by the smell, but fresh sourdough bread is even better!
A true professional makes the difficult look easy!
That's true, but a little video editing doesn't hurt, either!
well said
Wow, that was a load of great info. I found the real world examples you showed especially helpful. Subbed because I can't wait to watch and learn from your other videos!
I enjoyed watching a couple of your videos. Am looking seriously into wood gas for fuel. You planning to get a mill?
The man is eating beanie weenies to get tin can lids for marking stacks of lumber. I like this guy ! Great video. I learned a lot.
Actually, the can lids came from dog food, and no, I didn't eat it! 😛
Delightfully presented and clear as a bell.
Thanks, Chuck. Not too complicated, once you get the basics. Are you a woodworker or sawyer?
@@daveboyt6810 Actually, neither. I heat my house with wood so I do a lot of cutting and splitting but we had two big maple trees that were dying taken down and before I could cut them up for firewood, my wife got the idea we could make them into flooring for our daughter's house renovation. I can do a bit of woodworking so I got a new retirement task. I thought I needed to know how to manage the boards for drying before the sawyer showed up. This really helped. And I really enjoy your presentation style. Thanks again
Thank you for your helpful knowledge of how wood dries over time especially in relation to the realities humidity. I also like your technique for remembering what kind of wood you cut and when you cut it with the tin lid, awesome!
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comment. I still have a few stack of wood that I have no idea what they are until I run 'em through a planer.
Fantastic video Mr. Boyt! Thank you for the education!
Thanks, Rob! Drying is often overlooked, but it doesn't make a lot of sense to go to all the work of milling lumber just to have the boards turn into firewood because of inadequate drying. Is your interest in the video as a woodworker or a sawyer?
@@daveboyt6810 I am a hobbyist woodworker and we recently had to take down a pin oak my grandmother planted Arbor Day 1936. I purchased a 48" Granberg Alaskan chainsaw mill to slab the tree in place and eventually craft it into a dining room table.
Amazing instructions, thank you for sharing your wisdom and guidance on a super hard process that I'm just getting into. I really like how you explain things and show each step. Wish I could work under you to learn more.
Thanks for watching, and for leaving a comment. It isn't really all that difficult, once you learn a few of the basics. You might be able to find a local sawyer who would trade lessons & info for a little grunt work.
When the wagons going from the east on the Oregon trail halted in Montana, they failed apart of shrinking
Makes sense. Also sailors "swabbed the decks" with seawater to keep the deck boards from shrinking and forming cracks. WWII aircraft carriers used wooden decks to avoid sparks that would cause fires when an aircraft made a crash landing.
I have cut 3ft live oak and red oak that read at 20% moisture straight off the sawmill. Logs can dry to some degree assuming the bark is off and it's stored off the ground.
It would be interesting to measure moisture gradient from the outside to the inside of the log. Storing the log off the ground is important, for sure!
Amazing video sir! I'm a novice woodworker but plan to start milling soon. Great tips and keep chugging along!
Thanks, Austin. Woodworkers who have the opportunity to mill their own lumber have a real advantage, because they can control the cutting more carefully, and because they have a better understanding of the wood itself. Once you get sawdust in your veins, there's no turning back!
Good informative video. It was really good seeing Dave on a video again. The sawmill school is a very valuable thing for Norwood Sawmills to provide.
Thanks! Always looking for ideas for more videos, too. From your videos, it looks like your're into guitars, too.
@@daveboyt6810 Yes I am crazy about guitars and music in general. If I'm not doing my farming,cutting trees or running the mill, or building something with the lumber I've got a guitar in my hand.
@@woodlandharvesthoneycompanyllc Me, too. I started out with guitars, but am currently putting my energy into learning the mountain dulcimer. I have built a number of them from wood that I milled from salvaged trees, including the one that I played for the intro to this video. It is walnut with a quarter-sawn sycamore soundboard. I've also built hammer dulcimers, a banjo and a couple of ukes. Here's another video, but I had only been playing a few weeks when it was made. ruclips.net/video/tWP2FHBCOTg/видео.html
@@daveboyt6810 That is awesome Dave. That is very special that you are playing an instrument that you built yourself from wood you milled on your mill. I mean from selecting the tree,milling and drying the lumber then building the instrument,that is really something to be proud of.
Thanks Dave, great video, much appreciated. I will now have to see if you have a video on how to stack wood for air drying. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Hi, Jon, thanks for the feedback. This video might be helpful: ruclips.net/video/6XXE1BcfEpA/видео.html. Are you running a sawmill?
Check out "Sawmill School - Cutting Blocking & Stickers to Air Dry Your Lumber" on RUclips at ruclips.net/video/6XXE1BcfEpA/видео.html or Sawmill TV at www.norwoodsawmills.com/tv/index.aspx?isVideo=true&id=312955927
Hi Dave. Your mannerisms make it quite relaxing to listen to you. The reason I'm making this comment, though, is to say I'm glad you have a kitty. I think it's an unwritten rule that every sawmill needs its cat. She probably brings good luck, too.
I don't know about the good luck, but he occasionally leaves a dead mouse on the bed. Guess he figures I need a midnight snack once in a while! 🤪
@@daveboyt6810 Ha, ha! I imagine, like all cats, he is good at getting in the way.
I've had a pressure treated 2x6 shrink an inch in length on a Deck before. It was soaking wet in the winter time and come spring when it warmed up, it had shrunk that much in length.
Pretty amazing what the lumber yards will sell as "ready to use"! An inch is pretty significant for shrinking in length.
Nice video Dave.
I've had a few batches of air dried.
I think it's worth it if you can do it.
Better color in the wood.
I think the kiln dried process injects some steam.
The natural wood dyes run out.
Air dried just takes time.
Depends on the wood. On the down side, air drying white wood like maple can discolor, and bugs can be a problem. Industrial kilns use steam to speed up the process, but solar, dehumidification, and vacuum kilns don't. Walnut is typically steamed to turn the sapwood dark but, as you observed, it does affect the color of the heartwood.
Thanks for the info Dave. I just got a mill and am finding it's a steep learning curve. I've watched a few of your video's and finding them very helpful especially compared to some other video's out there. The biggest challenge I'm finding so far is getting a straight cut. Your video on tracking was helpful,. I'm cutting 24" spruce in 3 to 4 inch slabs for live edge benches. pretty wavy but I think I'll get it figured out.. thanks for your help.
Hi, Bruce. Thanks for the comment. I don't know what it is about spruce, but it does seem to be more difficult to cut straight that most species. It might be that 10 degrees hook angle is too aggressive, and a 7 or even a 4 degree angle would do better for you. Which mill do you have, and how are you tensioning the blade?
Great video! I have a sawmill also. Before I mill up the logs, I paint the ends of the logs to prevent checking. Each species of wood is painted a different color so it's easy to identify each species of wood later.
Good idea. I use AnchorSeal on the good stuff. What kind of mill are you running?
@@daveboyt6810 I'm using a TimberKing 1220 sawmill. I typically use AnchorSeal or white oil-based paint as the first coat on the log ends, then paint a color as a second coat to color-code the lumber. Thanks for your reply.
Thanks Dave.....for passing on some info that I will pass on also! 🤠
Thanks! Not everything a miller needs to know, but it's a start.
Thank you Dave, from another Missouri sawyer!
Good to hear from you. Brice. Stop by for coffee & to swap a few lies if you're ever down our way (60 mile west of Springfield).
Some great info Dave, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. Cat makes a great co-host!
Thanks! Scooter's cameo appearance was unscripted, and I didn't even realize he was in the last bit of video until I edited it. My wife takes in strays.
Love his ingenuity of using can tops and a punch set to track inventory. And don't forget your moisture meter, just try to find one that gives a reading right side up. Talk about a design fail.
It is a bit awkward, but as long as it works, I'll deal with it.
Thank you for that information. Very handy stuff to keep in mind and look more into.
I absolutely love this video!! I learned a lot about the process and appreciate your time!
Thanks for watching and for leaving the feedback. I'm still learning!
@@daveboyt6810 you're welcome!
Quality talk!
I appreciate your professionalism and candor.
Thank you
Thanks for watching, and for leaving the comment.
Awesome, straight forward explanation.
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback, always looking for ideas for more videos.
Clear and to the point quickly. Good video.
Thanks, Phillip. Are you a sawyer or woodworker?
@@daveboyt6810 Neither right now but I'm retiring soon and I own 15 acres of Ash wood. I dabble in wood working right now.
Thank you for a great informative simple you tube explanation by a great namesake my name is Judy Boyt from UK
Judy Boyt, the artist???? If so, we're cousins, and have met a couple of times! If not, we're probably still related. We're related to Arthur Boyt... this guy ruclips.net/video/LXVY8kttUtE/видео.html .
@@daveboyt6810 I am the artist/sculptor and we are cousins ! Remind me when we met - are your related to Dick and Libby Boyt?
Great info and enjoyable video, thank you...
Thanks for watching, and for the kind words.
Thank you Dave. Your very knowledgeable and down to earth. It's a pleasure to learn from you.
I appreciate that, Rick. Are you a woodworker or sawyer?
@@daveboyt6810 Woodworker mostly. I've made some lumber. i have a ceder trunk I cut 2 yr's ago. It's 40" at base by 32'. After listening to you I realize I better get busy but I only have a 22" bar and I don't know how to cut it. Do you think I should invest in a larger bar?
@@rickrodgers9277 Depends... what size saw do you have? Do you anticipate cutting more logs in the future? In addition to the bar, you'll want a ripping chain which is filed at a flatter angle than a conventional chain. Here's a link of me quartering a sycamore log about that size so I can get it on the mill (that part starts at 15:50) ruclips.net/video/eLbnjkjXDmw/видео.html. Good luck!
@@daveboyt6810 I have an old Stihl MS 290 and I don't foresee cutting another log this size. Thank you for your help.
Very scientific and practical information. Thank you good sir!! Excellent video
Thanks, Sean. The interaction between wood and moisture is probably the biggest issues sawyers and woodworkers have to deal with.
thanks for your knowledge. any ideas what to do with Sawdust?
Good question. Sawdust pretty much just gets composted now, though I do keep some for cleaning up oil spills in the shop.
Heard the man mention SWEETGUM. Does anyone know if it is worth spit for woodworking projects? I know it is terrible firewood. Please advise................Roger
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Could you give me your opinion on the norwood chainsaw mill?
Thanks for watching, and for the comment. As a chain saw mill, the Norwood mill works fine, up to about 14" diameter, if you are only milling occasionally. I'd recommend a ripping chain and at least a 70cc chain saw. Any chain saw mill is slow, noisy, and cuts a wider kerf (more sawdust, less lumber) than a band saw mill. If chain saw milling is the most practical for you, the Norwood mill is a good way to go. That said, if you can afford even the cheapest band mill (take a look at Norwood's "Frontier" line of mills, I'd recommend that.
Great information ! Really learned a lot in 12 minutes. Thanks.
Thanks, Jeff. You running a sawmill?
@@daveboyt6810 no just an amateur woodworker trying to learn.
great video - there's a lot to drying thick hardwood slabs - no fast tracking!
Thanks for the comment. A vacuum kiln would be a lot faster, but ya gotta make do with what ya have.
You are really knowledgeable about wood and lumber.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video and a thumbs up for the cat.
Thanks! Scooter sorta upstaged me on that part.
Great video!Video!! Well done sir
Learned a whole lot in the video awesome thanks old timer
Thanks... still making mistakes, and still learning!
Still a question here: What effect does leaving the bark on have? Take it off immediately? Leave it a year? It seems that it would accelerate the RATE of drying by removing it but what about the long-term effects?
On the log, I don't think there's much effect one way or the other leaving the bark on. I don't like leaving bark on the boards, though. Moisture does get trapped under it, and it's a great place for bugs.
Logs laying around without bark will begin to stain quicker than they would with the bark on. Regardless the hot summer heat is hard on logs. Especially your maple species.
@@daveboyt6810 and mold
I really liked your video! wish me luck I'm ordering a Northwood HD36 this spring for my 190 acres of woods in Minnesota.
HD36 is a good, solid machine. You won't need luck, just a bit of planning and a lot of hard work... and no doubt a good supply of mosquito repellant. Sounds like you've got an ideal setup for mill. Hope you'll let me know how it works out.
@@daveboyt6810 Ok the damage is done. I ordered my HD36 today. It sounds like it will be a 16 week wait until it's delivered. In the mean time I'm teaching my self how to tap maple trees and collect sap for syrup. Side not I think I turned my Dad Leland into a mega fan. I catch him watching your videos all the time. Keep up all the good work. Mike from Minnesota!
@@cryptoconstruction 16 weeks is a long wait, but maybe they'll ship it early. Some of the other manufacturers have a year and a half waiting list! Good luck with the maple syrup. Is it still sugaring season up your way? I'm getting ready to open up my bee hives in a week or two, maybe get a little honey. Greetings to your Dad. My dad worked with me until he was nearly 90, passed away at 93. Really fond memories of him working with me at the mill (mostly supervising, toward the end).
The tin can lid idea is great!!
Thanks. Sometimes it's the little things like that that make a difference. It's great, when a customer asks for something specific, to locate a stack of what he's looking for.
Sir, You are GREAT!! Simple and perfect explanations. Thank you.
Thanks, and thanks for watching. Are you a sawyer or woodworker?
@@daveboyt6810 I'm a fledgling student. Ha ha. I have done some sawing and built a pole barn but that was just enough to teach me I have a lot to learn.
Thank you for the very easy to understand explanation. New to the game in Joplin Mo and found this to be great info.
That makes us neighbors! I'm about 5 miles east of Crowder College down by Neosho. Stop by for coffee some time. My # is in the phone book.
Very good video sir, thank you for your knowledge! Regards from Brazil.
Thanks for watching, and for leaving the comment.
"Been there a while" - that's what earned my sub. ..
Great video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching, and for leaving the comment!
I have done box drying. That is you use boards for stickers spaced an inch or two apart. It does leave a mark on the boards but it depends on what they are used for. Its better in a building. I suppose you can cover the pile with metal roofing. Keep the piles lowish. ,because it gets to be a pain lifting on to a high pile.You start from a level base. Lumber does dry out some during a winters storage.
Thanks for the comment. I use metal roofing, and stack them as high as the front end loader allows, putting 4x4 blocks roughly every 500 bd ft, so I can handle them. Winter drying depends on where you are. Not much takes place after the moisture in the boards turn to ice. Good point about the level base.
I'm just beginning to mill Northern California Black Walnut, juglans hindsii. I painted and waxed the ends of and air dried 3 logs approx 20" dia for 3 yrs and recently milled them, mostly at 3" but some variation. I'm getting ready to cut down one tree, 62" D and 10Ft long and I don't want to wait 3 years and mill it I want to do it Now and cut at 3+" , 6 slabs, sticker and bind them. Am I doing the right thing? There is some beautiful figure in them
Excellent presentation. Fine job sir!
Thanks!
one of the good ol boys.
Thank you very much sire you have I answered a ton of questions for me and you are so amazing I have lernd a lot from you I have a os23 and love it hope too get the os36
Thanks for the comment. I've heard that the OS mills are very capable machines, but once you get going, you'll always be looking for a bigger mill, then you'll be pushing it to the max!
I really enjoy viewing your videos. Thanks
Thanks, Tommy. I watched a Vinylmania video-- nice sound. You guys still makin' music? Need a dulcimer player? :)
I was just high and was wondering how lumber was made since the prices went up...and im amazed.
I wouldn't know about lumber prices... haven't bought any for a long time.
Dont go off these portable mill videos. They're great and informative for homeowner use but actual sawmills are way different. You dont just rip boards left and right especially if your sawing grade.
So glad I found your channel. Very informative
Thanks for watching!
That was the best, most succinct explanation of the necessity of wood drying I’ve seen. I’m subscribing!
Thank you!
And that’s a really cool cat!
Thanks! Yeh, Scooter is a cool cat, but he's pretty full of himself sometimes. I'm always open to new ideas for videos.
What a fantastic and informational video. This is so good! Thank you so much!
Coming from you, that's quite a compliment! I look forward to learning from your videos, as well. I've done a bit of forging (steel, not money), and hope to get a drone in the air in the near future.
Thanks for your comment. You're out of my league on video production, but I would welcome suggestions on improving audio quality for outdoor shooting at the sawmill. Would a separate audio recorder in addition to the shotgun mic on the camera help? I'm on a tight budget and don't need stereo... and I've lost track of the number of times I forgot to turn on the mic.
@@daveboyt6810 Sorry, I took so long to reply. The most cost effective way to capture clean remote audio is with a lapel mic connected to a cell phone or other pocket recorder via 3.5mm jack. You can find a wide variety of them on Amazon. I think Shure sells a fairly good one for about $60. The cheaper $30 ones aren't bad either. Just make sure you have a good wind filter(the foam ball, or dead cat style) on it. The down side is realigning the audio with the video in post production. It helps if you start each shot with a clap that is visible on camera. That lets you pick the frame where the noise happened and sync them up easily. If you have a bunch of different shots this can take up some time. That's why people are willing to spend a bit more on a wireless lav system. I tried some of the cheaper versions, but I can confirm you get what you pay for there. Static and interference is a big issue with the cheaper versions. I settled on a Sony UWP system which I've found to be clear as a bell. One benefit of using a secondary recording device, assuming your camera doesn't have multiple audio inputs, is that you can keep using your shotgun mic to capture ambient audio on the camera and then blend the two audio sources in post. This will give the final production a more complete sound, where a "lav only" setup will tend to sound a bit one dimensional.
Good luck and keep up the great work!
@@HaloKTS Thanks for the suggestion. I can see another advantage of the pocket recorder in that when I forget to turn on the shotgun mic, I'll still have audio. I hate it when I spend an hour shooting video (this might involve loading a log on the mill three or four times to get different camera angles), only to find no audio when I edit it. Maybe I'll make myself one of those Hollywood-style clapboards with the scene written on it. Now I know why they use 'em! Looking forward to watching more of your videos.
@@daveboyt6810 believe it or not, I've made the same mistake many times. I had to make a checklist to make sure it gets turned on. Since I do a lot of live events it's even more critical. I have nightmares about that happening at a wedding! That's why I always double check the sound and everything gets fresh batteries before we start rolling. With regard to the clapper board, you're spot on! That's exactly what they're for. Newer versions are actually wirelessly hooked into a master clock that generates matching timecodes on all the audio and video devices on set. Fancy stuff!
How about avoiding cracking while drying in a desert? For now I’m drying in a conex trying to slow it...
You're doing the right thing trying to slow down the drying. You still need to allow air circulation, so if the wood is in a closed container, you should put in some fans and have the container open for maybe a half hour at mid-morning and mid afternoon to start. End coating the logs (or boards if they're already cut) with a product like Anchorseal will help with the end checking. Your best bet is to monitor the moisture content of the wood as it dries. Banding the wood or putting weights on the stacks to keep them straight will also help. As the wood dries to under 20%, you can increase the open kiln time. Depending on species and your conditions, you should have kiln dry 1" thick lumber in around 8 weeks.
Great and very informative video. Thanks for doing this.
Thanks. I watched your video of Aurora drinking from a hose. She & our dog Jake would have a great time chasing each other!
3:45 There is a neat truck. Are you going to use it again sometime?
The old grapple truck is a '72 International cabover with a blown Detroit Diesel engine. It's been sitting a while, just haven't had time to work on it. I would consider offers for the truck and/or grapple, since I don't do much logging anymore.
Best vid i've ever watched!Fully enjoyed Dave's easy going tone and life time of knowledge.
Thanks! I appreciate that. Actually it is a lifetime of trying not to repeat mistakes too many times.
Just bought a mill. waiting for delivery. the sawing seems pretty straight forward. the drying process seems it will be the difficult part. I appreciate videos like this!
How do you minimize the discoloration of air dried wood from the slat separators?
Thanks for the question. That's called "sticker stain", and I should have addressed that in the video. Use kiln dry stickers of either a light-colored wood or of the same species as the wood you are drying, and keep the stack covered from rain and snow, and you shouldn't have any problem with it.
I wondered why you picked Neosho for a number, that's so cool you're probably less than 20 miles from us and we just bought a portable mill ourselves! Hopefully I can learn a lot from your experience!
Thanks for the comment. I live about 8 miles south east of Neosho. Stop by some time, if you like. Which mill did you buy?
Dave you mentioned sweet gum briefly. I'm wanting to saw some into beams for a cabin and some other for trailer decking. I've heard they twist so bad that doesn't work. What's your position on that?
Jason
Good question. Sweetgum has an interlaced grain (like elm- nearly impossible to split by hand) that causes it to warp and twist as it dries. I wouldn't use it for beams for that reason, and it rots pretty quickly, so it wouldn't be great for trailer decking, either. I think the best use for sweetgum is woodworking, using kiln dry wood-- it can have some amazing grain.
Great video thanks. I do have a question, and I may be trying to teach an old dog new tricks but here goes. I notice when you make a cut you raise the head before you move the slab you cut. If you move the slab first you can say a minute and make a half a turn on the raising handle instead of several turns! Just a thought, saves some time, effort, and wear.
I was surprised he cut multiple slabs before moving them away. That’s a lot of weight pushing down of the blade.
@@paftaf It would be the same if you were cutting a beam. I have had the same thought in the past, then realized 6 - 1” pieces is no different than 1-6” piece
I don't have a set pattern. If I moved the slab first, I'd have to walk around the mill, move the slab, then walk back around to pull the head rig back to the starting position. The way I did it in the video is more cranking, but less walking. Later in the day, if my shoulder starts to give out, I'll switch and do it as you suggested.
@@paftaf Nope. The teeth are bent alternately about .022" each way, so the kerf is twice as wide as the blade is thick. The body of the blade slides right through without touching the wood. No matter how many slabs or how thick, the only part of the blade to come in contact with the wood is the tip of the teeth.
@@paftaf Because the set of the blade takes a wider kerf than the thickness of the blade, it doesn't matter how many cuts I make, there is no weight on the blade. That's the advantage of a band saw.
Fantastic info. Just by common since I knew the driest air would get is 11 ton12% in Louisiana. But that is still denier the most of the big box stores sell
That's the difference... the big box stores have one thing in mind... PROFIT. You're right, but I wish common sense would be just a little more common.
They need high inventory turnover to stay profitable. I worked at a Lowes and we needed 1 - 2 truck loads of inventory a day to keep up. The real money is from garden material. That is always the highest sales of any big box hardware store.
I'm in EBR Parish.
Awesome video, A bank of knowledge! Thankyou!
Thanks for watching, and for leaving the comment!
Stumbled across this video...this guy rules!
Hi, Matt, thanks for watching and for leaving the comment. If I didn't stumble, I'd never get anywhere!
Thank you, Mr. Boyt, for a great "Science!"-based exposition of the subject.
It does however make one wonder how our great-grandparents constructed furniture well enough in the face of wild winter-summer humidity swings in un-air-conditioned living spaces for it to survive to pass down in heirloom/museum quality.
Surely(??) most of them had only air-dried lumber to work with. Could their techniques mitigate the effects of using air-dried lumber in kiln-dried conditions?
Or, could it have been they started with higher-quality wood than most of us do? One aspect comes immediately to mind: quarter-sawing. If the old-timers restricted themselves to using quarter-sawn wood only, their pieces would have enjoyed almost no shrinkage.
That's where my money is. After glancing at the cost(!) of quarter-sawn, I think most of us look for "alternatives" that then require us to install a/c...
Quarter sawn lumber still shrinks as it dries-- around 4% to 5% in width, depending on species and moisture loss. That's still less than plain sawn lumber, but the important thing is that it doesn't tend to cup as it dries. Traditional techniques such as trestle tables with tapered pegs that can be tapped in to tighten it up as it dries in place, and cabinets with floating panels also compensate for seasonal drying (and swelling).
Great info thank you! Am looking into investing in a mill to run here in Alaska and Norwood is at the top of my list 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the comment. Norwood mill won't disappoint you! I see you've uploaded a lot of aviation videos. I used to do some flying-- my favorites were a Stinson 108 and a Grumman Yankee. Always wanted to get checked out in a Beech D-18.
That was super informative. Thank you very much. Makes me want to buy that portable sawmill
Thanks for watching! It's a great sawmill.
Thank you for educating me. I learned a lot. Just beginning here. Thanks again
Thanks. Let me know if you have any specific questions or topics you'd like to see covered.
LOL! I think my cat just noticed yours here at the end of your video as she knocked a couple of boxes off of where she's perched while staring at the screen. Don't think she's going to be a big help when it comes time to "Sticker and Stack", though.
Cats are proof that the world is round. If it were flat, they'd have knocked everything off of it by now!
Wow! I'm glad I gound your videos! Also, +10 for kitty kat!
Thanks for watching and for leaving the comment. Yeh, Scooter has gotten so many comments, I'd oughtta give him his own channel! From you picture, I'm guessing you're a cat lover. 🙀
Very informative video, thanks
That is another excellent video, there is more to timber then ripping something to size and dimension as opposed to looking at what they finished product will be, which is actually a very important outcome. I have to do a deck floor on my Flat top low loader as I want to return it to its original look and function, I have finally been opening up allot of logs on my mill and playing with Horses again so I will have to post some more information out there that you may enjoy a look at. Cheers Garry from Australia and Matey your welcome if ever you do get down under
Good to hear from you, Garry. Interesting to see your work with old equipment, too. Restoring that ol' 8N Ford in my early videos is on my to-do list, and I've got a couple of 30 hp upright "Coke bottle" steam engines that I'd love to get running. Stay in touch.
@@daveboyt6810 I would love to see those projects
@@AttitudeAdjuster Maybe this winter...