Snowboard Base Repairs With Board Designer J-Stone | Bomb Hole Highlights

We called up snowboard engineer J-Stone aka Justin Clark during EP. 5 of Group Chat to get some tuning tips when dealing with snowboard base repairs.
Watch the full Group Chat episode here: • Bomb Hole Group Chat #...
Follow J-Stone on Instagram | / jstone18
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[@rockymanbro]

Highly relevant given the current state of snow in the US.

[@yakked]

So good. Too many people suggest base repairs exactly the wrong way.

[@terrylee284]

I've never attempted a PTex fix but might give this a try now. Looking at the razor blade scraping looks like you might be able to use a glass top stove scrapper. More or less just a razor blade holder to help get you a little more control.

[@erickrings3036]

put him on a full episode!

[@ericramin1576]

I'd love a full J Stone Eppi

[@clifford_2zero7]

Totally makes sense. I try to use a map torch to get that ptex hot as possible with a blue flame but I still "dripped" it on. Never had a repair falure and my jib board has some good ones, but good to know!

[@Evan-qq7dv]

use a small soldering iron or wood burning tool for metal grip

[@jstone18]

Soldering iron or base weld gun is definitely the way to go! Wanted to make the video with the most accessible tools possible

[@diggitydan1403]

Yea I use a weld gun, but deff not accessible for everyone unless you go to a shop, their very pricey

[@jeremystevens6020]

I’m learning so many things! It’s good to repair your own board.

[@rowan_my_boat]

Never tried the metal grip but have always found epoxy also works really good. Will have to find the metal grip a go next time

[@jacobiwolf77]

Put a thin layer of epoxy down before you melt the metal grip in

[@davetannenbaum]

super helpful

[@t.blaschke7461]

Excellent, thanx a lot!!!

[@99Technine]

Essentials. I've been boarding for like 15 years and have always 'dripped' the PTEX

[@adamnapiorkowski1949]

Good chance of melting the base when you heat up the metalgrip like that. Use a soldering iron

[@jekWone]

I totally just melted my base…. FML

[@jacobiwolf77]

As someone who started working in a ski shop at the age of 14 and I am now 46, DO NOT SET THE P-TEX ON FIRE! Use the torch to melt the p-tex stick without lighting it and you will keep the carbon out of the p-tex which is what makes it brittle then crack and fall out. His scraper method still gets carbon in the p-tex. His core shot fix is legit but putting a thin layer of epoxy down helps even more

[@jstone18]

Thanks for the comment! Regarding setting the p-tex on fire, I don't see any issue with it as long as your flame is primarily blue. the blue flame indicates complete combustion and no production of carbon monoxide in the air or pure carbon in the p-tex. You can see how yellow the flame is and how much pure carbon is produced when the stick is first set on fire and dripping onto the scraper but once the p-texing is started on the board, there is no pure carbon dripping onto the board (or not enough to matter imo) to cause any cracking or discoloration. Obviously a p-tex gun with no flame involved is the way to go but this is a cheap and obtainable way to fix a snowboard at home. Would be stoked if you made a video showing your ptexing method, always love learning new techniques!

[@jacobiwolf77]

@@jstone18 yeah, there was still carbon in the demonstration given, not as much as just lighting the stick, but it was still visible

[@nomad4594]

I've always used ptex as a snail trail, so I guess I've been doing something right. 😅

[@32srt32]

can you use a wood burner with a flat tip to heat up and press the metal grip with wood iron?

[@jstone18]

yeah that should work for sure. test it on a metal scraper or scrap piece of wood to get the technique down before doing it on the board

[@cjm428]

@@jstone18after watching this I decided I’m going to try and repair a core shot myself.
Most other videos and articles Ive seen say you have to partially fill the gouge with metal grip then do regular ptex on top of that. Is that really necessary or is it all good just doing to full repair with metal grip like you showed in the video?

[@jstone18]

@@cjm428I would go all metal grip, it’s really hard to try and fill a core shot and leave enough room to drip p-tex on top. Once it’s smooth and waxed I don’t think it slows you down!

[@anyalpine]

Are there issues with using epoxy to seal the core shot and then using ptex to finish the repair?

[@jacobiwolf77]

Nope, because epoxy is what was holding the base and core together to begin with, just don't set the p-tex stick on fire like was done here. If you're using a torch, set the flame low so you can get the stick close enough to the flame to melt it without setting it on fire, that puts carbon in the p-tex which is what causes the brittleness and cracking. This scraper method still has that problem regardless of what was stated here