Only 10 months in and already 7.300 views with very kind comments... This video has seemingly helped many people to understand base bevel. If it changed your world and you want to express your gratitude and support my channel, you can do this here: www.buymeacoffee.com/justaride Thank you so much, and don't forget to check out my other content! ;-)
Thank you again! You are the only content creator that makes me understand the reasons behind numbers. Not just "go 1 degree if you do this, or 2 degrees if you do that". As a sportbike instructor I totally appreciate this approach, it may seem more complicated but in the end it sticks. First you understand, and only then you do. I know that next winter, when I will make my first ride of the season, I will remember mainly why I need certain movements, and then try and execute them. Same goes for the tuning of my board, or why I've selected that board in the first place. And the boots, and the bindings and so on. So once again: awesome work, thanks a lot!
I was wondering if you could talk a bit about base structure sometime. Great content, feel like you really help demystify things for me with every video!
this is great. i love this idea. any chance you could do a follow up with a little more detail on how you use the tool and actually shape the the edge? i think i get the concept but not the actual execution.
Awesome channel. Thank you for the great information you share with us. When you say giving the bevel 1.5º degree in the contact points and 1 in the rest of the edge, I have the question where exactly should finished the 1.5º and start the 1º.
That's a preference thing! I wouldn't go further than 10 to 15cm inwards from the contact points. But there's no rules! You could also just do 5cm... or 25... :-) The longer that section, the slower the edge will engage. Technically there's no point going more than 5 to 10cm inwards. That takes away that grabby/catchy feel and leaves everything else nice and precise. The tail may not be needed at all on a directional board where you don't ride switch much or at all.
I have been trying to research base edge bevels for various brands and it doesn’t seem like many of them come with a base edge bevel. The nidecker brands, Mervin, and others seem like the come flat from the factory. I know capita comes with a 1.5 bevel but are there brands that come with 0 degree base edge bevels?
Boards come with a 1° base bevel 99% of the time... Only some race boards and supposedly Gentemstick come without bevel - in order for the rider to shape the edge to their needs. Nobody would ever ride without base bevel. It feels horrible and somewhat just doesn't work. So every company - whether they state a number or not - do a bevel. Even the Gentem boards are bevelled - I've tuned lots out of the wrapper, and they all were set to something around more or less 1°. I assume Gentem tell you to set the base bevel, because they're afraid that the factory mayget it wrong - which would make the boards ride horribly. So to ensure that nobody ever has a bad experience, they just advice to set a bevel (that's just my take!). Nidecker and Mervin do 100% come with a base bevel. I worked at and tuned for a Mervin/Nidecker/Gentem/Burton/K2/Ride/Stranda/Gentem dealer for over a decade. They all come beveled. To get a lesser bevel than the set one you'll have to perform a base grind to take down the base and edge to full flatness, then set a new bevel. Hope that helps!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Thanks for the reply. How important do you feel base flatness is on a snowboard? I have checked a few of my newer boards with a true bar and they all seem to have a some uniform convexity (edge high). Is that normal for boards straight out of the factory and should individuals be concerned about base flatness?
@@ODBracerTrying to research factory edge angles typically leads to what manufacturers tell customers their boards would have - apparently, as discussed in the thread of the comment by @szaret1 these can well be different from reality. And maybe - just speculating here - that is the reason why they do not put them into the spec sheet. 🤔 Regarding base flatness. From a perfectionist point of view it is appalling how non-flat bases may come out of factory. I put a true bar against my new boards as well in recent years, but found no consistency. Two Mervin boards were quite non-flat, but in different ways and different parts of the board. After a stone grind they are better, but still not perfect - and the perfectionist in me can not help thinking about how the structure applied by the stone must be less in the recessed concave parts. 😜 Two Jones boards where pretty good, as in no major deformations, but also not perfect, as in some smaller concave areas. The annoying bit in practice is that when you try to scrape the board after waxing, you will see all the flatness issues as areas where your flat scraper is not affecting the wax easily. In actual riding I would say there is no noticeable difference - powder is soft and does not care, and on firm snow you ride on your edge 99% of the time anyway.
Snowboarding for years and just learned about base bevel! :) Maybe a silly question but if a board is serviced by one of these big ski/snowboard shops where I think they lightly grind the base and edges in a machine would they then reset the bevel? Or is this something I should do by hand when board comes back?
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Thanks very much. Will make sure I ask in the future. Also. As a 54 year old and still trying to perfect my carving technique :) I find your content extremely useful.
Really? That's what they say? That's a board that is not ready to be ridden. 0° base bevel is basically unrideable. If that's the case, get it tuned to 1°. Gonna change the whole board!
I just confirmed...all of their boards come with 0 degree base level. I've had a few of their boards over that past 2 years. Before that i was on high end burtons. I gotta say the endeavors turn better. I have 2 buddies on custom cambers and we would switch it up with my endeavor live through out the day, and we all agreed the endeavors edge hold was better. I am curious about trying 1 degree. If im not a fan is it ok to go back to zero?
@@szaret1 That blows my mind! 0° base bevel is literally a production mistake - unless the boards purposefully come as a raw blank so you can shape the edge. Base bevel has little to do with edge hold. It has everything to do with edge engagement!! The less bevel, the more direct the board feels. Less than 0.5° is literally unrideable in any form of a relaxed manner. I wonder whether this is some classic snowboard industry BS to not overwhelm the 'dumb snowboard customer' (This is how I feel about a lot of brands. They seemingly think that people either don't care or are too dumb to understand certain things. So everything is just based on marketing hype and cool factor... Sorry! That's not fair to some brands, but true to many.) So what I mean is that they could argue that if the base bevel is 1° and the side edge is also 1°, then there's no actual angle - as in the 90° edge you get with this tune is 'neutral'. So they call it zero?!?!?! That's all I can come up with. The Endeavour I'm tuning in this video was brand new and both edges were substantially different from one another.... I haven't ridden a factory tune in years. First thing I do is edges. Then tons of wax. Factory tunes are all over the map. Very few brands deliver consistency and quality on that end. Burton is not one of them. Their detuning is off the chart! Like 6 inches inwards from the contact point the edges are completely round.... Unsavable! Endeavours edge grip is better because their flexes and core profiles are better for carving than Burtons. Burton bank on explosiveness and quick steering - soft torsional flex with wildly stiff tips on a construction that doesn't absorb vibrations well - the carving Anti Christ (this goes for the majority of their boards but not for all. The new Gril Master is totally different Great board!)! 🙂 Endeavour don't do that that much or at all, so they naturally carve better - in particular under lighter riders. Hope that helps!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel holy snap!!! I appreciate the detailed response my guy. I’m already waxing my gear but will now definitely be getting into doing my own edges after learning how inconsistent they are. Thanks for the knowledge 🤟
They are not alone at least - Mervin (LibTech, GNU, Roxy) also tells customers all their boards had 0 base and 90 side bevel, except for the T.Rice Pro, which is "tuned to Travis' specs" (this bit IIRC also is in some catalog or video) with a base bevel of 3 at the contact points. As I am not aware of a way to precisely (so not layers of electric tape around the file 😉) measure the base bevel without a set of according file guides (or actual measuring tools), I can unfortunately only do some relative estimates.
Hey Lars! Do you detune your contact points on your cheater or just 1.5 base bevel. Not sure if a carving board needs to be that catch free and utilize the full edge for entering turns. I’ve always detuned contact points on my freestyle/freeride boards.
I don't detune the slightest bit of my edges on any board. All my boards have at least a tiny bit of early rise in the tips, which in my brain replaces the need for de-tuning. If I was on a full camber board, I would still not de-tune, but instead apply more base bevel right around the contact point. I usually ride 1° base bevel tip to tail with 88° side edge, sometimes 87°. Very occasionally on very wide boards I run 1.5° on the base, which helps with 'rolling onto the edge' on those wide planks.
Great question! You will need a base grind to make the edge flush with the base again. Then set the base bevel to less than your 3°. It will remove a fair bit of base in your case.
I used to spend a lot of time getting the base bevel just right but these days with boards with a "3D" shape in the tip and tail I don't need to bother.
Is this true? I just came to comments to ask about the bevel for a bataleon board. Should I be aiming for “no bevel” (99%) at all to try and maximise traction for my turns, especially in icy conditions?
You're not wrong. I personally don't like 3D shapes for many reasons. I think it's a gimmick to have something new...... It's 100% useless on hard snow, and the difference in powder doesn't justify all the disadvantages. Of course it depends on how the 3D is applied! AND this is just an opinion! 🙂 You get much more control out of a normal base profile with appropriate base bevels than out of a board that is entirely bent in all directions. Biggest disadvantage of 'spooning' is that you lose control over the flex!! A spooned nose doesn't flex! Unless it's milled super thin, and then it's not durable....
@@FazeredTube You definitely need a base bevel!! Your board is hopefully not 3D between the bindings?! There you need a bevel, 100%. Otherwise, I'd always do 1° along the whole edge. Maybe it's not needed in the tips where the 3D is, not sure... But since you eventually do engage that part of the edge in a turn on edge, you should probably bevel it for better release. Here"s another reply I wrote, copied and pasted: I personally don't like 3D shapes for many reasons. I think it's a gimmick to have something new...... It's 100% useless on hard snow, and the difference in powder doesn't justify all the disadvantages. Of course it depends on how the 3D is applied! AND this is just an opinion! 🙂 You get much more control out of a normal base profile with appropriate base bevels than out of a board that is entirely bent in all directions. Biggest disadvantage of 'spooning' is that you lose control over the flex!! A spooned nose doesn't flex! Unless it's milled super thin, and then it's not durable.... A nose that is too stiff bucks you around and is only useful and fun in pristine powder... I prefer boards that handle the entire mountain in all conditions.
Thank you for your reply! Sorry, I should have said that I was just referring to the contact points. I currently have a 1 degree (pretty much, I should get better tools) bevel all the way. I think I have just been struggling with the board for the reasons you listed. It is fine for short swooping turns, but I find it difficult to manage long carves. I have been riding an old Flow Whiteout from 2017 instead of my bataleon.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel I agree the key for 3d shapes is that they are of sound design - there are a lot of variations on the concept. Personally I love a fairly stiff full camber board with some 3d shaping around the nose and tail. Lovely turn initiation and they carve beautifully. Obviously they lack extreme edge bite so not for those guys riding out in places like the US east coast where rock hard ice is common.
That's nonsense. Ive read this here many times. No factory would release a board with 0 base bevel.... They'd all come back as unrideable warranty cases and the brand reputation would be ruined within one season - that's how impossible it is to ride without base bevel. It amazes me that even Jones write that in their FAQ. Incredible! This Endeavour was 1 and 1 (1 base, 89 side - or 91 if you will). Most boards are like that. Some have more base bevel for park or beginners. Some have 88/92/2 side edge, like Stranda and some K2's. A company I'm not gonna name here once had a hickup in the factory and the next year's demo fleet didn't have a bevel. The rep came into the sop I worked in as a tech and was like "nobody likes the boards. People are coming back at events and say 'that was just weird'...." He eventually realized there was no bevel. I checked and did a tune on the entire fleet. Happy days afterwards. I have no words for any company saying that without having a sticker on the board "NO TUNE! GET TUNED TO PERSONAL PREFERENCE BEFORE RIDING". They're all tuned, trust me. Unless you tell Donek to send you an untuned board, because you do it yourself.
Yea I trust you. I can tell when waxing, the edge doesn't get coated immediately like the base. But it's really weird that I've asked them 3 times over the years and they've always told me 0/0
Only 10 months in and already 7.300 views with very kind comments... This video has seemingly helped many people to understand base bevel.
If it changed your world and you want to express your gratitude and support my channel, you can do this here:
www.buymeacoffee.com/justaride
Thank you so much, and don't forget to check out my other content! ;-)
He provides a university-level education on snowboarding nuances. I love the content you create and the level of detail you provide.
Ha! Awesome! :-) Thanks again!! Your appreciation means more to me than you'll ever know!! Hope I can keep it up...
Thank you again! You are the only content creator that makes me understand the reasons behind numbers. Not just "go 1 degree if you do this, or 2 degrees if you do that".
As a sportbike instructor I totally appreciate this approach, it may seem more complicated but in the end it sticks. First you understand, and only then you do.
I know that next winter, when I will make my first ride of the season, I will remember mainly why I need certain movements, and then try and execute them.
Same goes for the tuning of my board, or why I've selected that board in the first place. And the boots, and the bindings and so on.
So once again: awesome work, thanks a lot!
Thank you so much!!! 🙏🙏🙏
This channel is the greatest. I can’t wait to see whats next.
Neither can I! Hahahaha..... :-) Thank you for saying this! It's a lot of fun, and it keeps me motivated to get such nice comments!
Awesome concept. Would love to see some more tuning tips and tricks-and the footage showing you doing the work. 👍
It's gonna happen! 🙂
Another excellent video ! Great advice ! Thanks !
Thank you, Martin!!
I was wondering if you could talk a bit about base structure sometime. Great content, feel like you really help demystify things for me with every video!
Yeah. I'll talk about that a bit in a later episode. Thanks for the comment!!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Yes! There's so little info out there on structure.
Love this information!
Sweet! That's great! Thanks for the comment! Share away!! 🙂
this is great. i love this idea. any chance you could do a follow up with a little more detail on how you use the tool and actually shape the the edge? i think i get the concept but not the actual execution.
Yes, this will eventually happen. Stay tuned ;-)
Very interesting
Awesome channel. Thank you for the great information you share with us. When you say giving the bevel 1.5º degree in the contact points and 1 in the rest of the edge, I have the question where exactly should finished the 1.5º and start the 1º.
That's a preference thing! I wouldn't go further than 10 to 15cm inwards from the contact points. But there's no rules! You could also just do 5cm... or 25... :-) The longer that section, the slower the edge will engage. Technically there's no point going more than 5 to 10cm inwards. That takes away that grabby/catchy feel and leaves everything else nice and precise. The tail may not be needed at all on a directional board where you don't ride switch much or at all.
One of the most peaceful voices on the internet
Aahhh....so nice and unlikely to hear... I'm always being told how harsh my German accent is.... :-)
I'm German myself. That's why I don't even first realized your accent. Living in Canada since 15 years, close to the Rocky Mountains.
If medium stiff board is unforgiving when landing after jump, more base bevel would help? It is directional twin (old school camber) type of board..
Correct! You got it!
I have been trying to research base edge bevels for various brands and it doesn’t seem like many of them come with a base edge bevel. The nidecker brands, Mervin, and others seem like the come flat from the factory. I know capita comes with a 1.5 bevel but are there brands that come with 0 degree base edge bevels?
Boards come with a 1° base bevel 99% of the time...
Only some race boards and supposedly Gentemstick come without bevel - in order for the rider to shape the edge to their needs. Nobody would ever ride without base bevel. It feels horrible and somewhat just doesn't work. So every company - whether they state a number or not - do a bevel. Even the Gentem boards are bevelled - I've tuned lots out of the wrapper, and they all were set to something around more or less 1°. I assume Gentem tell you to set the base bevel, because they're afraid that the factory mayget it wrong - which would make the boards ride horribly. So to ensure that nobody ever has a bad experience, they just advice to set a bevel (that's just my take!). Nidecker and Mervin do 100% come with a base bevel. I worked at and tuned for a Mervin/Nidecker/Gentem/Burton/K2/Ride/Stranda/Gentem dealer for over a decade. They all come beveled.
To get a lesser bevel than the set one you'll have to perform a base grind to take down the base and edge to full flatness, then set a new bevel.
Hope that helps!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Thanks for the reply. How important do you feel base flatness is on a snowboard? I have checked a few of my newer boards with a true bar and they all seem to have a some uniform convexity (edge high). Is that normal for boards straight out of the factory and should individuals be concerned about base flatness?
@@ODBracerTrying to research factory edge angles typically leads to what manufacturers tell customers their boards would have - apparently, as discussed in the thread of the comment by @szaret1 these can well be different from reality.
And maybe - just speculating here - that is the reason why they do not put them into the spec sheet. 🤔
Regarding base flatness. From a perfectionist point of view it is appalling how non-flat bases may come out of factory. I put a true bar against my new boards as well in recent years, but found no consistency.
Two Mervin boards were quite non-flat, but in different ways and different parts of the board. After a stone grind they are better, but still not perfect - and the perfectionist in me can not help thinking about how the structure applied by the stone must be less in the recessed concave parts. 😜
Two Jones boards where pretty good, as in no major deformations, but also not perfect, as in some smaller concave areas.
The annoying bit in practice is that when you try to scrape the board after waxing, you will see all the flatness issues as areas where your flat scraper is not affecting the wax easily.
In actual riding I would say there is no noticeable difference - powder is soft and does not care, and on firm snow you ride on your edge 99% of the time anyway.
Snowboarding for years and just learned about base bevel! :) Maybe a silly question but if a board is serviced by one of these big ski/snowboard shops where I think they lightly grind the base and edges in a machine would they then reset the bevel? Or is this something I should do by hand when board comes back?
They should be doing it. Really, they should be asking you what you want!!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Thanks very much. Will make sure I ask in the future.
Also. As a 54 year old and still trying to perfect my carving technique :) I find your content extremely useful.
@@IanFowden Thanks for telling me that!! :-)
I have that board. Endeavor says it comes with a zero degree base bevel. Do you know if that's common or if any other brands do that?
Really? That's what they say? That's a board that is not ready to be ridden. 0° base bevel is basically unrideable. If that's the case, get it tuned to 1°. Gonna change the whole board!
I just confirmed...all of their boards come with 0 degree base level. I've had a few of their boards over that past 2 years. Before that i was on high end burtons. I gotta say the endeavors turn better. I have 2 buddies on custom cambers and we would switch it up with my endeavor live through out the day, and we all agreed the endeavors edge hold was better.
I am curious about trying 1 degree. If im not a fan is it ok to go back to zero?
@@szaret1 That blows my mind! 0° base bevel is literally a production mistake - unless the boards purposefully come as a raw blank so you can shape the edge.
Base bevel has little to do with edge hold. It has everything to do with edge engagement!! The less bevel, the more direct the board feels. Less than 0.5° is literally unrideable in any form of a relaxed manner.
I wonder whether this is some classic snowboard industry BS to not overwhelm the 'dumb snowboard customer' (This is how I feel about a lot of brands. They seemingly think that people either don't care or are too dumb to understand certain things. So everything is just based on marketing hype and cool factor... Sorry! That's not fair to some brands, but true to many.) So what I mean is that they could argue that if the base bevel is 1° and the side edge is also 1°, then there's no actual angle - as in the 90° edge you get with this tune is 'neutral'. So they call it zero?!?!?! That's all I can come up with.
The Endeavour I'm tuning in this video was brand new and both edges were substantially different from one another....
I haven't ridden a factory tune in years. First thing I do is edges. Then tons of wax. Factory tunes are all over the map. Very few brands deliver consistency and quality on that end. Burton is not one of them. Their detuning is off the chart! Like 6 inches inwards from the contact point the edges are completely round.... Unsavable!
Endeavours edge grip is better because their flexes and core profiles are better for carving than Burtons. Burton bank on explosiveness and quick steering - soft torsional flex with wildly stiff tips on a construction that doesn't absorb vibrations well - the carving Anti Christ (this goes for the majority of their boards but not for all. The new Gril Master is totally different Great board!)! 🙂 Endeavour don't do that that much or at all, so they naturally carve better - in particular under lighter riders.
Hope that helps!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel holy snap!!! I appreciate the detailed response my guy. I’m already waxing my gear but will now definitely be getting into doing my own edges after learning how inconsistent they are. Thanks for the knowledge 🤟
They are not alone at least - Mervin (LibTech, GNU, Roxy) also tells customers all their boards had 0 base and 90 side bevel, except for the T.Rice Pro, which is "tuned to Travis' specs" (this bit IIRC also is in some catalog or video) with a base bevel of 3 at the contact points.
As I am not aware of a way to precisely (so not layers of electric tape around the file 😉) measure the base bevel without a set of according file guides (or actual measuring tools), I can unfortunately only do some relative estimates.
Hey Lars!
Do you detune your contact points on your cheater or just 1.5 base bevel. Not sure if a carving board needs to be that catch free and utilize the full edge for entering turns. I’ve always detuned contact points on my freestyle/freeride boards.
I don't detune the slightest bit of my edges on any board. All my boards have at least a tiny bit of early rise in the tips, which in my brain replaces the need for de-tuning. If I was on a full camber board, I would still not de-tune, but instead apply more base bevel right around the contact point. I usually ride 1° base bevel tip to tail with 88° side edge, sometimes 87°. Very occasionally on very wide boards I run 1.5° on the base, which helps with 'rolling onto the edge' on those wide planks.
If a board is tuned to a 3 degree level could it be tuned back to 1, or is the material gone for good?
Great question!
You will need a base grind to make the edge flush with the base again. Then set the base bevel to less than your 3°. It will remove a fair bit of base in your case.
Where's your shop? In Fernie?
Right downtown. Email me: lars.justaride@gmail.com
When I want to know how stuff is done to boards, I search. When I want to know why, I come here.
Awesome!!! That was my intent. Getting to the 'whys'!! High fives!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel high five back at you!!
I used to spend a lot of time getting the base bevel just right but these days with boards with a "3D" shape in the tip and tail I don't need to bother.
Is this true? I just came to comments to ask about the bevel for a bataleon board.
Should I be aiming for “no bevel” (99%) at all to try and maximise traction for my turns, especially in icy conditions?
You're not wrong. I personally don't like 3D shapes for many reasons. I think it's a gimmick to have something new...... It's 100% useless on hard snow, and the difference in powder doesn't justify all the disadvantages. Of course it depends on how the 3D is applied! AND this is just an opinion! 🙂
You get much more control out of a normal base profile with appropriate base bevels than out of a board that is entirely bent in all directions. Biggest disadvantage of 'spooning' is that you lose control over the flex!! A spooned nose doesn't flex! Unless it's milled super thin, and then it's not durable....
@@FazeredTube You definitely need a base bevel!! Your board is hopefully not 3D between the bindings?! There you need a bevel, 100%.
Otherwise, I'd always do 1° along the whole edge. Maybe it's not needed in the tips where the 3D is, not sure... But since you eventually do engage that part of the edge in a turn on edge, you should probably bevel it for better release.
Here"s another reply I wrote, copied and pasted:
I personally don't like 3D shapes for many reasons. I think it's a gimmick to have something new...... It's 100% useless on hard snow, and the difference in powder doesn't justify all the disadvantages. Of course it depends on how the 3D is applied! AND this is just an opinion! 🙂
You get much more control out of a normal base profile with appropriate base bevels than out of a board that is entirely bent in all directions. Biggest disadvantage of 'spooning' is that you lose control over the flex!! A spooned nose doesn't flex! Unless it's milled super thin, and then it's not durable.... A nose that is too stiff bucks you around and is only useful and fun in pristine powder... I prefer boards that handle the entire mountain in all conditions.
Thank you for your reply!
Sorry, I should have said that I was just referring to the contact points. I currently have a 1 degree (pretty much, I should get better tools) bevel all the way.
I think I have just been struggling with the board for the reasons you listed. It is fine for short swooping turns, but I find it difficult to manage long carves.
I have been riding an old Flow Whiteout from 2017 instead of my bataleon.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel I agree the key for 3d shapes is that they are of sound design - there are a lot of variations on the concept. Personally I love a fairly stiff full camber board with some 3d shaping around the nose and tail. Lovely turn initiation and they carve beautifully. Obviously they lack extreme edge bite so not for those guys riding out in places like the US east coast where rock hard ice is common.
What is the stock specs on that endeavor board? Endeavor has told me that they run 0/0 on their boards.
That's nonsense. Ive read this here many times. No factory would release a board with 0 base bevel.... They'd all come back as unrideable warranty cases and the brand reputation would be ruined within one season - that's how impossible it is to ride without base bevel. It amazes me that even Jones write that in their FAQ. Incredible!
This Endeavour was 1 and 1 (1 base, 89 side - or 91 if you will). Most boards are like that. Some have more base bevel for park or beginners. Some have 88/92/2 side edge, like Stranda and some K2's.
A company I'm not gonna name here once had a hickup in the factory and the next year's demo fleet didn't have a bevel. The rep came into the sop I worked in as a tech and was like "nobody likes the boards. People are coming back at events and say 'that was just weird'...." He eventually realized there was no bevel. I checked and did a tune on the entire fleet. Happy days afterwards.
I have no words for any company saying that without having a sticker on the board "NO TUNE! GET TUNED TO PERSONAL PREFERENCE BEFORE RIDING". They're all tuned, trust me. Unless you tell Donek to send you an untuned board, because you do it yourself.
Yea I trust you. I can tell when waxing, the edge doesn't get coated immediately like the base. But it's really weird that I've asked them 3 times over the years and they've always told me 0/0
@@maxnguyen2875 I've heard this about many other companies. It's quite wild!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel I have an adjustable toko edge tuner. so if I want to sharpen a 1/1, then I use the 89 degree setting right?
@@maxnguyen2875 Correct!!