Why And How To Wax Your Snowboard / In Depth Tutorial
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- Опубликовано: 7 апр 2024
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Speed and glide are not the same thing. While you don't always want speed, you definitely always want glide, and therefore your snowboard base needs to be in good shape and thoroughly waxed!
This in depth talk will dive into different bases, base structure, different waxes, base preparation and a few other little snowboard waxing tips along the side. I'll also be talking about the tools needed and how to handle/maintain them.
Sidecut tuning tools and Nanox wax can be purchased directly through me.
Email me at lars.justaride@gmail.com 
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Another great video, as always, Lars! We've just last weekend finished for the season, unfortunately, but it's been really great. Your videos have helped me enormously with my set up , looking after my gear correctly and begin to learn softboot carving. It really has been a blast and your positivity, knowledge and willingness to share it have helped enormously!! Thanks so much!! 👍
Oh wow!! Amazing!! Thank you so much for sharing that with me!!
Thanks Lars. Used the search bar and scrolled until I found your video
I was waiting to see if you crayon before having this melting iron base touch the base! Nicely done :)
Hey Lars!
Great video and greetings from England!
I’m mainly riding indoor slopes on my Gray Desperado.
Got all the Roto brushes/cork pads etc but a Lambswool Paint Roller in a drill is my tip for a polished finish!
Thanks for the ‘Edge strip versus full base width wax’ tip - going to try that with a harder wax.
Cheers, Dave.
Nice one!! Thanks!
Good video, have fun!
Awesome as usual. Thanks Lars. Only wish this had existed 2 months ago! Over many years i usually cold-waxed thru the season most time and would have a hot wax from a friend's help, or borrow an iron, or just have the pro shop once or twice a season... many methods and dos/don'ts, many different opinions. This year I finally put my own kit together and probably watched two dozen videos looking "my" recipe to get a great result that wasn't excessive... all the vids with the same number of dos/don'ts, all different opinions.
What i finally came away with and how I tuned our boards last month is nearly exactly what you've shown. They were fast as hell! :D
So THAT'S pretty freakin cool at least. :D Thanks!
Haha, good story!
Yes, I agree!! As many methods as there are tuners... And I'm sure I'm not doing it perfectly...
Thanks for the video!
Thank you Lars for great knowledge sharing once again , much appreciation and respect from China!❤❤love and peace
Thank you so much!! :-)
Another fantastic tutorial!
Thanks, Lars!
You rock 🤙
Glad you liked it. Sorry it's always so bloody long...
@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel It needs to be long enough in order to convey the right amount of detail.
Keep doing what you're doing, Lars!
It's great stuff!
Liebe Grüße aus Ruhrgebiet 🤙
@@razvanhalmaciu1 Ruhrpott Kind! 🙂Danke und Grüße zurück!!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Adoptiertes Kind Vom Ruhrgebiet übernommen 😃 🇺🇸🇩🇪
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Learning a lot from your videos!
Keep them coming ❤️
I am tuning my snowboard myself this year and, aside from being a fun and satisfying way to chill in my garage, I've also discovered that on the other side, a lot of shops do a really poor job, like quickly grinding the side edges, taking away a lot of material and not even considering the base bevel at all, and oftentime doing their work in a standardized way, regardless of the shape of the board (sidecut radius, camber ecc).
So I prefer to take care of my board myself.
But besides this, many times I've heard that leaving the wax on the board for at least a couple of hours to a maximum of 24h would be beneficial, for the wax would supposedly penetrate the sole more thouroughly. This would supposedly be one of the main differences between hand waxing and machine waxing. But I see that in this video, you scrape the wax away as soon as it gets cold.
So, leaving the wax on the board for hours: truth or mith?
Myth!! 30 minutes is plenty!!
Awesome video Lars!! If I missed it, could you share some of your thoughts on how frequently it is necessary to wax a backcountry splitboard?
Thanks!! All depends on the conditions. Whenever the base looks dull and is getting grey, I’d wax.
I think with die cut bases you're essentially giving the board that many more chances to have a de-lamination.
Regarding 3D bases, I gave them a try with the Bataleon Thunder which is pretty much the most 3D of a base that you can have, and... it mostly just behaves like camrocker. It doesn't even track straight on a cat track like a camber board. I did have an idea I kind of wanted to try of getting rid of the base bevel on the raised areas and just let the angle of the base serve that function, but that board died of base damage right next to the edge making that board permanently edge high but only on one spot so it would always be trying to kill you. On thegoodride they do sometimes mention spooned noses giving a different feel in powder but I never got that board in deep powder fresh enough to tell. Mostly just seems like expensive cam rocker.
I think I'm getting a bit of an idea of how Sami folklore works, if we all pretend like that Biru split isn't behind you, it won't exist.
Hello Lars! Always enjoy your content, very informative. What would you do in preparation for transitioning a board previously waxed with standard all temp wax, to Nanox wax?
Nothing really... Just start using Nanox! :-)
It's also not a world of a difference. I like working with the stuff, and it does glide very well, and I do have very high quality bases on all of my boards. Depending on all these variables it can sometimes be a waste of money to use rather expensive waxes. Nanox isn't too bad, but certainly not cheap.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel thanks!
when you talk about die cut... I had a 2023 salomon dancehaul with yellow/black/yellow base....which delaminated on the yellow strip.... was thinking about replacing it with 2024 version but that is just asking for all sorts of problems
Thanks Lars for sharing. I learned many things as usual from your videos... One question, I heard that wax fumes are a big no for your alveolar reducing lung capacity, in particular with Fluor-based waxes. What do you think about using facemasks during the melting?
Great question! First of all fluor based waxes have been banned and I'm not using those. Otherwise, yes, definitely a good idea to wear a respirator!
I solve the issue partially with a ceiling fan above my work bench that pulls the fumes out of the room. I didn't want to disturb the audio in this video, so I worked without it running.
You should check out Leonid Kuzmins phd thesis and research papers on base glide. His research finds structure and a clean base is actually better than a waxed base.
Love it! Epic!! Nerd central!! :-)
Thanks for the tip!
Great video as always Lars 👍
I’m thinking of giving Nanox wax a try which I believe you are using. A question in relation to usage, Sidecut recommends scraping within 2 mins while the board is still warm but you use the more common method of waiting for the board to cool. Just wondering if you’ve tried their method but think waiting is better?
I scrape it warm. But nobody uses Nanox, so in the video I’m talking about how every other wax needs to be treated.
Makes sense cheers
Keep in mind that flourinated wax wasn’t made illegal, it isn’t an illegal substance, it was just banned from competition. You can still get guys who just “need” that extra glide on a powder day
Great video Lars. Love the tip of putting a harder wax along edges. I'll have to try that next season. I bit of a geeky question here. In terms of trying to "saturate" a newer base, is there any benefit to repeatedly melting in a wax job? I'm specifically thinking of doing my summer storage wax job and periodically re-ironing it in over the summer. Thoughts?
That's how I treat a new board - over a few days. With summer storage over weeks I'd be worried to iron in wax that has accumulated dirt...
Thanks Lars - good point. I didn’t think about dust & dirt…
Lars I have noticed several times the A from the logo of the JustAride channel is very similar to the A in the Aquarius logo. Each tine I see it I make the mental connection. So might want to check that, if that bothers you. Aside that detail, you really are a knowledgeable and truly top tier rider, you know a lot, explain yourself really good, and back it up with riding like GOD himself😂. Keep on it!
Thanks for the input regarding the logo and the kind words!!
Do you mean the drink Aquarius?
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel yes, the Aquarius drink!
I don't see the similarity in the logo design, there are noticeable differences. Sometimes our brains form connections that once we've made them, we can't shake. Sting didn't actually sing about Sue Lawley.
Good video as always Lars 👍
@@ghostofjakebluesyes indeed, my brain just thinks “Aquarius” each time! I just wanted to share it case…
@@ghostofjakeblues I feel sue lawley, I feel sue lawley lawley lawley law, I feel sue law I feel sue lawley!!!!
great stuff, thank you. I'm curious: what do you think of infrared waxes?
Never tried, but everything I've heard is sounding very, very good! Supposedly more wax efficient and better for the base...
Great video! A few questions: how do you clean your brushes? How do you ensure that the process itself is as clean as possible. If I don't do it in a dedicated workshop but do it somewhere that has wooden flooring, then I will have lots of wax all over the place. Do you have any tips how to avoid it?
Thanks!
I take the shop vac to the brushes to suck the wax particles/dust out of them.
Otherwise, not much you can do other than being super careful.... You will need a tarp on the floor, if you do this inside your home. Not recommended, really.
Great video!
What are your thoughts on Phantom Glide?
Also curious on your thoughts around some of the risks around inhaling wax fumes or dust particles and general environmental impact of hydrocarbon or fluro based waxes.
Well, fluro has been banned, so that's that :-)
I don't know too much about the impact of hydrocarbon waxes. I've also never ridden and played with Phantom. Sorry, not much information here!
I'm fairly certain that there are some aspects of skiing/snowboarding that are far, far more harmful to the planet than wax... like.... water consumption for man made snow and the electricity those guns consume.... But of course it's always a good thought to reduce our foot print where ever we can. Wend and Oneball Jay make some environmentally friendly products, and I'm sure it's only gonna become more.
I got a Cardiff solid board with Phantom glide pre applied, but I didn't really get enough time on it to know how impactful it was. For a resort board, I will mention the caveat it doesn't prevent the base from abrading and getting fuzzy the same way a base does if you just tolerate bad glide from not waxing. That's on one of their harder to find faqs, so if you don't wax and just rely on the phantom glide you need to get to periodically get the base reground, I think that ends up being about every 30 riding days, so I don't know that not applying the paraffin is really such an environmental upside over the micro plastic from doing so many base grinds, might depend on how tidy your tuner is. Might not be an issue if you're the type to get your structure tuned to the weather. I'll probably just get it waxed normally because I don't do much board maintenance myself and the edges tend to get consumed at about the same rate as the wax. I mostly just got it because it's a powder board and it seems like a nice bonus to avoid being caught flat footed if a surprise storm shows up.
I think the real benefit to phantom glide is for splitboards or back country skies to avoid the meeting of wax and skin glue.
Great video!
One (probably dump) question came to my mind while watching:
The scraped of wax - is it just trash or is there any use to it still?
Not a dumb question at all!
It is not recommended to use the wax shavings, because they will always contain some amount of dirt that came up out of the base. People have done it. I wouldn't... :-)
Hi there! Just ended my season and time to treat well my board 😅
watch my 'storage wax video'!!
ruclips.net/video/3JVqBsFwkiY/видео.htmlsi=ugLcZiG1PEEW6_44
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel thanks!
Great video again .
Have you waxed /scraped a 3D board ?
I'm presuming it's more challenging?
Well...... let's just say it totally sucks and I hate it! Hahahaha.....
I also don't believe in 3D bases. Video coming next season. ;-)
A couple of years ago I bought a new Rome Agent that was edge high within a few weeks. I noticed it when riding on a cold, icy day. When I tipped the board on edge it felt like the board was fighting me, wanted to go flat.
Yup! Awful sensation!!
Hi Lars! How wide board shoud be for size 11.5? Super wide snowboards are becoming popular now, but with boot out it's really harder to change edge. What do you think about it?
Watch all my videos about waist width! Also the ones about Short/Fats, volume shifted boards! It all depends on so many things...
Great video! Thanks! I have a question about burned base, if the edge is already a little higher than the base, is there a way to fix this manually? I mean without a base grind machine.
Not in a good way. Taking down the edge with a file will create a board that is base high and won't engage the edge in the desired way when turning.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Thanks man, I'll find a repair store to fix my board, instead of doing it myself.
So if I were to venture a guess, if "sintruded" actually does differ from a normal extruded base, it might just be that they force air into the plastic through some means to make it porous.
Could be anything. But really, what I know from some companies personally it’s likely marketing BS. Sad but true.
You mentioned K2/Ride - What are your thoughts on the tune from Capita?
Not enough experience with it to judge. But looks pretty nice!
What do you think about the damp paper towel method? I've been using it this season and it saved me soooo much time, wax and work..
Never heard of it. Tell me more!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel no wayyyy
Hi Lars! Need a tip for storing board during summer. I used to wax and iron my board at the end of the season, but not scrape it off and put it inside my travel snowboard bag for summer so no dust or sun touches it. I scrape off wax just before i'm going to the resort when the season starts. Is it OK or I should scrape off wax right after waxing the board and leave it scraped for summer?
You got it!! Wax on over summer. I have a video on storage wax. Called put your board to sleep.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Thank you so much! I'll check it out asap!
Danke ❤
Bitte! :-)
If your base has 3D contouring in the tip and tail, is there anything special to do (for exampling, when ironing or scraping)? I'm recently on a Jones Mind Expander and it's my first 3D contoured base board.
Waxing 3D bases just takes a bit longer especially ones with concave in tail. You more so have to be careful with scraping as it's easy to dig into created ridge line from the 3D change in the base if you are too aggressive.
What @cratra says!!
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Also, I really avoid 3D bases at all cost. I have yet to understand the real factual benefits. The obvious downsides are far outweighing 3D for me.
I'll make a video about that next season.
I ride Lib/Gnu, Mervin bases are definitely pure ass out of the box. Good thing a base grind is cheap and easy 😎
I take with me a small tub of creamy wax when splitboarding, and rub on the smallest amount after I peel off my skins. (I feel the peeling of the skins removes some of the wax) Sometimes I just want to wax my board after every run 😂😂😂 I ride gentem in japan 2+months per year and you can really feel the difference in that deep japow.
Is hard wax bad for hot snow. It should be more resistant too. Or is there any indication against this idea. Except the fact that scrapping hard wax is big s...
Good question!!
This might be total rubbish... but I think the softer warm temp wax is more hydrophobic... not 100% sure about that one.
Possible. Hot wax looks more greasy. But it's perhaps just because it's more soft
Lars. What’s the width of the top of your vises?
The actual vice (metal) measures 11.25". The rubber padded area that the board actually lies on measures 10.75". Those are the biggest I've ever worked with. Great support!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel what brand? Or are they just Amazon specials. I have swix and they’re 8.25 which is now unacceptable
@@LagmasterB Sidecut.
What are the negatives of not removing all of the wax properly?
...a clogged structure and crystals grabbing the wax making you go slower.
@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel - just ordered a horse hair brush, I was amazed that even after scraping and brushing how much still came off with the horse hair brush and the finish looked amazing 👍 many many thanks for all you content and information 🙏
Thank you for this detailed explanation. What do you think about the fast method that uses a wet towel to melt and get rid of wax in excess? (e.g. see ruclips.net/video/jbFmIjr5YGw/видео.html at minute 10:00)
Thanks for the link. Never tried. Not sure what the sudden water evaporation would do… hmmm…. Guess I’ll do some research. Cheers!