Thank you DCA for answering my question! For context my cousin is a photographer and for certain settings (taking wedding photos outside) he shouldn’t whip out a big tactical knife so a small classy knife is less alarming, he would also need to maybe get branches out of the shot.
Yeah, an Alox Swiss Army knife with both a blade and wood saw would look great and do exactly what is needed. Bonus points for the scissors on the Farmer X if he needs to trim some loose string on a piece of clothing to clean up a shot -DCA
Thanks! I’ll let him check out the Farmer X and see what he thinks. I imagine he’ll like it since both him and I grew up on a farm in northern Saskatchewan! Kind of ironic if you ask me! Anyways thanks David for answering my question! Looking forward to what’s next for TKC
Hello sir! I know this is an old video… you may not even see this… I am very new to the folder/survival/bushcraft/fix blade world but I have been a kitchen knife enthusiast and collector (also chef for 24 years) so I definitely understand steel. To piggyback off of this segment: When you say Toughness what exactly are you referring to? Stainless steels are obviously alloys designed to improve rust prevention, ductility, etc… wouldn’t you then consider stainless knives to be more “tough”? Now trust me I own almost entirely carbon steel knives and I prefer them but I also know that if I took a 66hrc carbon knife and smashed a log against the side of one or even dropped it on a rock it would be far more likely to chip or snap due to the high hardness and subsequent brittleness. Obviously all steals are different and some are more brittle than others, I am just speaking generally. I have just always considered stainless, especially your lower end less expensive stainless steel to be far more tough, and ductile than a higher end harder carbon steel. Obviously you are giving up edge retention and ease of sharpening for those benefits. What am I missing? I’m a massive fan of the channel! Watch your videos every day.. literally. Keep up the awesome content.
The Appalachian Drifter is probably the best looking knife that civivi makes and S35VN for $85 is awesome. They need to do a run in liner lock and I'm all over it!
I love this series. Thank you. I've done some simple knife modification in the past but would love to hear a segment on what modifications are easily possible by DIY, what mods are commonly commercially available, and most of all, what (relatively) moderate priced knives can be easily modded to raise their "edc value" (looks, ease of use, changes to make more edc friendly or expand capabilities). For example, I've taken my $30 RAT 2, and through mods and an M390 steel upgrade, now have a knife that will last a lifetime and actually worth handing down to family.
Hey DCA. I recently bought a knife online and hated it the second I opened it. It just seemed cheaply made, didn't feel great, and I regretted buying it. However, after some regular use, I realized it was really fun to fidget with and it gets the job done nicely in most cases. It's now one of my favorite knives. Have you ever had a knife you hated at first but ended up loving?
Dear DCA. Thanks for the great show. A huge chunk of the knives you describe, fixed-blades and folders, as suitable for food cutting in camping, hunting, or kitchen situations. You clearly use many yourself with food. How do you clean them hygienically afterwards? I hear horror stories of dishwashers' heat destroying the heat-treatment/melting handles of fancy knives. I've had to dismantle a folder that was completely gummed up by fruit at a picnic. CRKT's field-strip helps, but I also use a Buck 110, which doesn't strip at all. Please give us the benefit of your experience.
In my opinion Mr. David is always spot on. this time he is spot on about the d2 steel In particular it would not be my go to for camping. Shout out to knife center always keeping me posted thank you
It all comes down to what you like I personally like all knives. Somethings will just make it easier to cut and save time. Hope you have a good day. Buy what you like and like what you buy.
Howzit DCA.two questions: 1) I am looking for new gloves whilst bushcrafting, camping and whittling. Can you recommend cut resistant gloves? I handle very sharp knives and I have had a few close calls even when being careful.2) leather vs kydex sheath. Oh and one critique. Its horrible to wait a week to watch a new FAQ episode. Its too great for one episode a week.
Really like the shape on your kitchen knife. Never worry about cost on a kitchen knife, especially your main chef’s knife or santoku. It’s been in my hand probably close to a thousand hours while my pocket knives can only dream of such use. I use on occasion an old (1989???) Gerber set my dad gave me but primarily I use the Wustholf classic series. I know, there are better knives... and I’m shopping!
For removing surface rust.... If you use a sharpening stone, take some of the slurry you get when sharpening the edge and use it to polish the rust off. If you do it with your finest grit stone, you shouldn't damage the finish on the blade.
I've been enjoying the series, DCA. A comment about the old coot and his slip joint problem: I'm 80 and it's my nails that now suffer badly when I attempt to use my slip joint Swiss Army knives or any other device that need strong nails to open. I'd suggest getting more knowledge about the issue. For example, I'm strong enough to deal with an Axis lock and the wrist.snap open/close motions too, and for sure wouldn't like a non-locking EDC knife.
Ravecoin - I'd add a couple of suggestions to DCA: 1) Spyderco Shaman - I's not the thinnest overall (it's not fat by any means) and the contoured handle is phenomenally comfortable. 2) Spyderco Brian Lai Amalgam - Carbon fiber/G-10, Compression Lock, world-class quality and design, this is a top shelf knife. 3) Benchmade Freek - You get 3.6" of M4 blade steel, Axis lock, and a ridiculously comfortable knife. Excellent choice. 4) (well, 3.5 actually, it falls a little short) Spyderco Paramilitary 2 - The blades are just under that 3.5 inch mark, but you can pre-order the PM2 in CPM-Cruwear steel at 3.47". Cruwear is an absolute monster in terms of steel quality.
- David, You mentioned a couple of times that as you've gotten deeper into Bladesmithing you upgraded from a Ken Onion edition worksharp belt grinder to a more robust one. I'm not sure if you've ever gone into detail about what you ended up purchasing, but I'm interested in knowing what you use.
My Craford/Casper CK Folder is my heaviest-duty knife.. Never had to take apart. perfect centering and turns into a fixed blade. $25.00 way back when. They are still worth the $35 KC is asking on their site I'd say. Thick steel that's got a real caracote too.
I absolutely love this series and your presentation style, extensive knowledge, empathy and experience (with the occasional interjection of dry wit), makes for the finest knife show out there! I’d be overjoyed if you could answer my question for the next instalment: I’m looking for a small neck knife/companion knife to attach to my belt for a horizontal cross draw, ideally with a good edge retention but easy sharpening steel and strength for the occasional fire making tasks (feather sticking & kindling batoning, alongside the usual day to day tasks). I have my eye on the Rainier Fastpak as this seems to fulfil nearly all of my requirements especially wit elmax steel as well as the Attleboro Knives Dau Tran and the White River Backpacker (I may well be wrong but feel the Braford Guardian is perhaps a little too chunky). I would love to know your thoughts and would be ever so grateful for any suggestions! Thank you very much for all of your marvellous work and imparting your superb knowledge. My warmest regards to all at the knife centre Ben
Thank you very much for the kind words Ben! I am on record for my full-throated endorsement of the White River Backpacker. Covers so many bases and the quality is top notch. If you want a better feel in the hand, go with one of the G10 handle versions (which are removable) or step up to their Caper model, which is the same shape with permanantly attached contoured scales. Cheers! -DCA
Thank you very much indeed David!! I shall be putting in my order for the phenomenal White River Backpacker (G10!) - per your recommendation!! Thank you ever so much again for taking the time to answer this! My warmest regards to all at The Knife Centre Ben
Michael DeCarolis - If you can swing $140, you cannot do better than the Cold Steel SRK in CPM-3V steel. If that's too much, they also make an SK-5 version for $45, you give up a little toughness and edge-holding, but still an excellent knife. Alternatively, look at any of the Condor fixed blades. My first choices would be: Selknam, Hudson Bay, Pictus, Primitive Bush Knife, Solobolo, Low Drag, there are lots of great choices. They are mainly 1075 or 1095 (a few 420HC thrown in) which means they are TOUGH, TOUGH, TOUGH, as long as you're not spending too much time in salt water the blade care isn't difficult.
Blade alignment should not rely on screw tension. It's way more likely that a mistake was made during reassembly or a worn washer or bushing needs replacing.
No doubt,Im a big fan of AEB-L and Nitro-V for stainless..I personally want to see more fixed blades in LC200N,it’s ridiculously tough stainless,it’s highly resistant to corrosion and it has pretty decent edge retention to boot...VG-10 and N690 would be decent options too as they are really well balanced steels and they sharpen up easily..Sandvik 12C24N or 14C28N too..these steels may not be considered “super steels” (minus LC200N)..yet they are solid performers and could keep the prices reasonable as well..Vanax and Elmax are pretty sweet as well, and are really well balanced stainless steels
@@garrettferrell6821 yeah LC200N is good but the bar stock is harder to come by so maybe that’s why it hasn’t been used much. I haven’t tried 14C28N but it’s supposed to be good stuff.
Have a fairly specific question for you: I have been carrying a pocket knife for a while but am only recently getting into the knife game as a whole. Currently, I tend to carry my Kershaw Leek or Cold Steel Crawford the most, but am looking for something a bit different. Hoping to find a non-assisted flipper, roughly 3.5-3.75”, but with a safety to keep it from opening. Basically, my Crawford but with the ability to lock it closed. Family guy, so always am carrying around the kids and would prefer the added peace of mind, I’ve had the Crawford partially open and was not too excited about that. Less than $100 ideal.. thanks!
Magnacut will probably be the best stainless for survival knives, once it's in wider availability. 14c28n is basically as tough as AEB-L, but with much better stain resistance.
If the older man who is looking for a new knife wants another option, the CRKT Symmetry might be worth looking at. It's a budget detent joint, and it's pretty slim and easy to get in and out of a pocket.
Love my bark river bravo 1 lt. Cpm3v while not true stainless is very corrosion resistant. The convex grind/sharpening works great and I maintain edge using work sharp blade grinding attachment. Edge gets better and better as it's used and stropped. You'll need alot of sanding belts to sharpen that 3v though hahahaha
Whats a good multitool for outdoor with a good plain edge knife and with a pocketclip under 60 to 70 dollars. I dont really care if it is plier based of not. Just a good allround multitool. Love the video’s’!!!!
i hope the older gentlemen like the civivi you suggested...it' would be cool if we can get a follow up...i would love to hear his opinion on the new detent systems
Recently I found out I have to comply with a blade length limit. I haven't had issues so far, and I'd like to keep It that way. What folders could you suggest that are at least four inches closed, have a blade no longer than three inches, don't scream "tactical," and are $100 or less? American-made is a bonus. Instead of the Civivis I'm sure everyone else and his brother would recommend, I'd be interested in something offbeat, unusual, or just plain obscure. Thanks!
And some of these ruclips.net/video/qg5YgyzGzj8/видео.html Buck 112 Slim Pro could be nice. American made, S30V steel, and complies with the blade length and price requirement.
@@knifecenter The Buck 112 has already been recommended to me, so I'll definitely pick up one of those sometime. I can also see the Scallion, Mini Griptilian, and Para 3 working well. I have a Dragonfly 2 as a situational carrier, and the Delica 4 (also worthy of a mention) is a favorite of mine. Thanks again!
I love 3V for survival knives, not cheap of course but very tough and great edge holding. Easy enough to through some oil or wax on it though to prevent rust, especially if you know you don't need it to be food safe oil.
3V is great and has some pretty decent corrosion resistance for a carbon steel. 5160 is even tougher and has good enough edge holding for battoning and feather-sticking but is more prone to corrosion. Camellia oil is great and food safe. 👍🏻
@@jkanecutlery 5160 is excellent and much less expensive than 3V knives to boot. I don't know how much of that is raw materials and how much it is manufacturing costs but hard to argue with the value on a 51XX series steel knife. 3V holds an edge a little better and for my personal use I am willing to trade a little toughness for that and better corrosion resistance. I typically have an ax with me, if I was backpacking frequently and could only bring a large knife, 5160 and a nice oily towel just in case it needed some replenishment would likely be a better choice though. Definitely comes down to application. I love m390 for a little pocket knife to carry in my pocket but a big 7-8"+ m390 "survival" knife wouldnt be able to do a lot of big knife stuff that one would expect without me worrying I was gonna chip the edge which is a bit of a pain to sharpen. At home, on a large diamond stone, no problem but in the field .. eh
@@jolness1 Agree, definitely comes down to application. I always camp with an Fallkniven F1 in 3G but I’m not too aggressive with it. I usually bring an axe or larger knife too but I’m looking to pare down to one all-purpose camp knife.
Hello DCA and KC, love the series. My favorite knife design of all time is Spyderco Tenacious, esp. the opening mechanism "Spydey Hole in the blade" versus a thumb stud. I am looking to upgrade outside of Spyderco, do you have any suggestions for a upgrade with similar size, but has the same opening mechanism "thumb hole in the blade". Thank you, Jon
A Benchmade Griptillian with the sheepsfoot blade and thumb hole comes to mind as a nice upgrade. The Civivi Dogma or Riffle may be worth checking out as well.
I’ve got the Spyderco Resilience Lite in S35VN. It’s a great knife and surprisingly I really like the handles.. they’re solid and grippy in the hand. I had ordered a set of micarta scales but doubt if I’m going to install them..maybe I can reshape them to fit one of my G10 Spyderco’s.. (I’ll have to fill and redrill holes)
The discontinued knife I'd love to see back is the Cold Steel AK-47 mini. Mine is pretty heavily worn and have never quite found anything that matched the hand feel and pocket feel. DCA, any thoughts on a similar replacement?
I’ve been considering getting the full-size Cold Steel AK-47 fixed blade for a while now..I have zero interest in the folder version but the fixed blade is a good looking knife
Really enjoying the content. I have spent a large amount of my vacation time from work watching your videos and absorbing as much knowledge as I can. Thanks for the entertainment
I’m not a fan of the ESEE 4,I feel the blade is too thick for a knife of its length.I feel like the ESEE 4 is a jack of all trades but a master of none..I absolutely love the ESEE 3,ESEE 6 and Junglas though.I keep my S35VN ESEE 3 and my Junglas on my camping gear bag/Bugout bag
David I recently bought a leatheman squirt PS4 and the knife blade has a chisel grind. Is there a reason why we don't see this grind used more often on knives?
For some time now, Amazon has started restricting the sale of a number of non automatic/non flipper knives to NYC residents. As a knife afficionado/ wannabe collector, I'm really frustrated and I find myself more and more thinking of buying Chinese knockoffs just to have something to play with. Is there a way to clarify the restriction definition so that us New Yorkers can join in the fun?
Aside from blade thickness that Benchmade Meatcrafter's blade profile is almost identical to the now-discontinued Becker BK-15. Only thing missing is the finger choil.
Great job with the FAQ videos. 2020 is the year that I have learned a lot about knives. Your videos have been instrumental in my knife education. So I am a huge fan of the traditional look of metal bolsters. I’m not a fan of slip joints, where they usually show up. I would probably go broke if all those traditional slip joints added a liner lock. The Lionsteel Gitano is awesome, but I’m not interested in it as a slip joint. Is there a knife that you recommend that could convey that vibe with a nice lock, any type. Also, if there’s any knives with bolsters that have a traditional look, but with more modern functionality that are underappreciated I would love to hear about those.
Hi is it worth buying the range boss from cold steel or should I wait for the broken skull. I can sharpen my own knives but the price difference seems very big.
How many folding knives can you reasonably carry at once? I'll define reasonable you never have to touch/move one to get to another. I'll put the over /under at 11
Hey DCA, with the quality of EDC fixed blades and carry options going way up, do you see any reason to carry a folder (other than legal reasons)? I’m a fixed blade fan and have completely moved away from folders. Thanks!
For EDC I personally prefer a good folder overall but I’m still a huge fan of my Bradford Guardian 3 and my ESEE Izula and would love to add a few more EDC fixed blades to my collection
Hey David, Thx for the videos. They’re a welcomed escape as I decompress from the week. What would you suggest for a bikepacking blade? I often lead mid/high school students on these trips. Due to the amount of bushcrafting, I think a fixed blade is a plan. Attaching it to the handlebars would allow for a longer blade as I’d like to avoid carrying a hatchet due to the added weight. Thx C
Hi, DCA! Love the series! Could you please recommend a nice steak knife/knife set? And semi-serious question. What is the most charismatic (fancy or/and brutal) knife for cutting a steak? Classic SOG Pentagon dagger?.. Buck 119/120?..
14c28n is almost a perfect steel in my mind. It doesn't break the bank, it's easy to sharpen, it strops amazingly and you can get such a fine edge on it too. Obviously there are steels that are better at each thing, but none are so well rounded at such a good price.
Enjoying this series of videos. I was wondering if there were any folding knives (one hand opening, locking knives) that utilized a little bit more exotic material for the liner, like brass or copper. Going for a gentleman style knife, around 3.25 inches of blade. Budget around 100 bucks. Any suggestions?
hi DCA...I really like CKF Evo 2.0 but it's little expensive for me. Is there any other knife of similar design but at lover cost? Maybe around $100 or lower? Thanks and keep up a good work 👍
Question: I am looking to grab a couple of chef's knives but I'm looking for something with a "better" steel. High carbon knives are great and VG10 is just fine but I am looking for something in s35vn or even m390 (I know it isn't very tough but it will be fine for my usage) I know tops has one and Bradford makes one in m390 (but KC doesn't stock it) Any recommendations? Thanks DCA and team for great content.
On the subject of developing rust and tarnish,,, one thing people don't put together all the time is ,,,, their diet. When you eat, your body goes into a chemical frenzy, and when you eat some foods, your skin becomes extremely caustic. Actually, you can even be uncomfortable to the touch by someone who is "clean" of junkfood. It's just something you have to pay attention to, but depending on what you eat, you might want to wait the day out to then go and handle your favorite steels. An excellent example of this is guitar strings. You can learn a lot by paying attention to what you eat, and then paying attention to what happens to your guitar strings. I won't play my favorite guitars unless I've had a very clean day, no extra sugar, plenty of vegetables, not much meat,, just because it will cause so much damage to the metals. (maybe the finish too, but mostly you notice the metals). caustic greases on your skin will seem to "clean the metal",, but later, it will show rust in those reacted areas
DCA, do you know of a more affordable (under $200) alternative to the Pena X-series Trapper? I love the style and don't want a slip joint or back lock. I have the Civivi Appalachian Drifter and like it, but it's not particularly safe to use for harder tasks. Thanks!
Might be worth looking at the Ti-22 from Ontario, I believe it was featured in the previous episode (right at the beginning) - a very nice looking knife! …Hope that helps!
You should check out Kizer,they often have frame lock knives in titanium+S35VN blade steel on sale for as low as $80..Kizer knives are made in China but they are amazing high quality knives
Looking for a very tough edc(1/4", maybe 3/16" spine), D2 or better edge retention, folder, with a lock that keeps the hand away from the blade, ambi, thin handles, deep carry clip, less than 100$. Job is for hyd hose edge trimming, wires, maintenance work. Assisted/flipper if possible. Any ideas?
David...I work in an industry where I use my knife daily to the point where it could definitely be described as “hard use”. I’m looking for something in the 3-3.5” range and my budget max is $125. Can you recommend something I won’t have to replace in a matter of a couple months? Thank You always for the info...God Bless.
Hey DCA! Love the content. I was wondering if you could suggest a great "chopping" survival knife. I know you like going the spectrum of price. So any suggestions would be great. Thanks for doing what you're doing.
Hey David! Was just sharpening my Cold Steel Recon 1 that I purchased second hand unfortunately. What steel type is The Recon 1? I haven't really been carrying this knife but this knife is comfortable. The cool thing how the specs trick you into thinking it's heavy which is not. I am a big fan of the Benchmade Turret model but it simply is too heavy for EDC. Is there a mini Turret from Benchmade? Thank you
The Recon 1 is either AUS-8A, CTS-XHP or S35vn, depending on which generation you have. Old style matte coating is AUS-8A, shiny/inky DLC coating is one of the other two. It doesn't say on the blade? Can't help you about the Turret.
Hey DCA! My 21st birthday is coming up and I’m looking to acquire my first nice knife. I’ve carried a Gerber Remix for about a year now and the quality is not holding up. I’m looking for something all metal, less than $300, and made in the US. I go to school in Manhattan and am looking for something that I can legally carry there (concealable, less than 4in, etc...). I currently have my eyes set on the ZT 0450 all titanium model. The knife seems to hit all of my marks. I’ve held the knife and it fits my hand well which is a concern I’ve heard. I also love the snappy action and the clean aesthetic. I’ll be using the knife as an edc in light and moderate use cases as a mechanical engineering student. I was wondering if you could convince me that this would be a good “first” knife that fits my needs, or if you would have any better recommendations? I was also wondering if you would have any recommendations for a inconspicuous super deep carry pocket clip as a replacement for the one stock on the knife? Love your videos! Best, Levi Sheridan
FAQ: Hi David !!! I really love your videos and knowledge... I need another knife :D Knife for gentleman carry, but for daily hard work also... Extra deep or deep carry pocket clip, flush screws. My edc nowadays is Spyderco Sage 1 and it is perfect for me... But you know the NEED to buy something new :) Thank you for your answer in next video and thank you for what you doing for us. Keep up the good work. Greetings from Central Europe
Follow-up question: You say the stainless has better edge-retention; then you say that it is more difficult to sharpen - right, that makes sense. Later you say that 1095 is "tougher" than stainless and that this could be more important even than edge retention. That's where I got stranded - what do you mean by "tough"? Does that refer to the knife blade breaking? If not (it sounds to me that with even very hard usage this is pretty uncommon. With abnormal abuse I suppose a blade could possible snap), then what? If this "toughness" is the only area of superiority over stainless, why do most reviewers see HC steel as "must have"? It's highly unlikely I'd ever abuse any knife to the extent that the blade will snap! I would really like to hear arguments for a revival of stainless steel blades, as for me the advantages are of real value over HC steel. Thanks Dave.
Get the Kleenex, I've got a sad story to tell as a preface to my question... About a thousand years ago I had a Benchmade Kodiak I carried for nearly a decade and then lost it, and even though I've had several fine edc knives since then I still miss my Kodiak, so my question is, where's the best place to look for knives that are out of production and should I fail to find what I'm looking for, is there anything currently in production similar to the Kodiak for under $150?
Your video editor did a booboo. When the cameraman told you "Good job" for your pronunciation of Wusthof, instead of putting an exclamation point (!) at the end they put a capital "i" (I) so you screen read out "GOOD JOBI" instead of "GOOD JOB!" It took nothing away from the enjoyability of your video, it's just that your production values have gotten so high it's almost like it's a privilege to be able to point out an "Uh-Oh" from you. Still the best knife guys on YT.
My fave EDC knife has been my qsp hawk with s35vn and I was wondering if there was anything else with a similar size and build with s35vn that has both a flipper and thumbstuds preferably. Ideally under 200$ but can spend more if needed. Thanks
My guess would probably be something like an OKC RAT1 or RAT2..a KaBar Dozier or possibly a Steel Will Cutjack or a CRKT Pilar..all the above are great budget friendly options and all can be bought in D2 Steel for $50 or less..If you are comfortable spending $50-$60 you can choose through a wide variety of knives from Civivi in D2,Sandvik 14C28N,9Cr18MoV and 154CM
The best steel for a survival knife, IMO, is an inexpensive, tough stainless like 420HC. While the expensive crucible steels have very high edge retention, should they require sharpening in the field, they are very difficult to sharpen with field-expedient sharpening methods. Unless you value historical re-enactment, in which case, you will want an uncoated carbon steel knife, and will likely be carrying the things with you necessary to care for uncoated carbon steel in the backcountry, stainless is best for most people. Any knife is only as good as its edge, and I'd trust my life to a cheap knife and a cheap sharpener before I'd trust my safety to an expensive knife and a cheap sharpener, because the cheap sharpener will put a serviceable edge on a cheap knife, but won't be able to do the same on an expensive exotic steel. The most important knife skill is sharpening. If you can't maintain a good edge under adverse conditions, then you only have a temporary knife. The most expensive steel I'd bother with in a survival knife is 440C, for this reason, but 420HC is even better, with higher toughness, higher corrosion resistance, and even easier sharpening, at an even lower cost. Comparing 1095 high carbon steel to 420HC high carbon stainless, the two have similar hardness, toughness, and edge retention, but 420HC has corrosion resistance that approaches that of expensive crucible steels, and 420HC is only slightly more expensive than 1095. I'll take 420HC any day of the week over virtually any other steel for backcountry/survival use.
What’s going on with Spyderco? I want to buy a PM2 (preferably the Cruware Mircarta), but they seem to be sold out everywhere. Even the standard model. Are they becoming discontinued or something?
Hope not. I've been trying to bring myself to look past the price tag and how visually bland the knife looks in order to justify in my head that I should get a Spyderco. The pm2 is the only one I would consider at the price since I want more than a 3 in blade.
They are supposed to be making the standard models PM2,PM3,Shaman,etc in S45VN..I don’t know if that means they are leaving the S30V behind or if they will have both versions available but I’m definitely looking forward to their S45VN models
James Goodrum I don’t mean to tell you what to do and how to spend your money but you should really check out a PM2.Ive been collecting knives for some years now and I have yet to find a folding knife that I like better than the PM2..sure,there are nicer higher quality knives out there but I’ve yet to find anything I would rather use than the PM2..it feels great when you hold it behind the choil and feels just as amazing when you choke up on the blade using the finger choil and thumb ramp.the compression lock is an excellent locking system,it a really strong lock and it’s also a fun lock to fidget around with..I’m a fan of the Spydie hole as well,as it makes the blade flick out with ease..I love the wide leaf shaped blade with the full flat grind too,it makes for one hell of a slicer..in all honesty,the PM2 is as close to the perfect designed knife I believe I will ever see..I personally didn’t understand the Spyderco craze myself years ago but after seeing the praise the PM2 has always got from the knife community,I had to see what all the fuss was about and it didn’t take me long to fall in love
Why don't you show some re- centering tips..Usually can loosen pivot put a piece of folded paper the distance to make it centered,then re tighten pivot to desired action.Will work in most cases.....
DCA, I want to replace my entry level kitchen knives with knives of better quality. I’m interested in building my own set with individual knives. I’m not particularly concerned about price, but I am looking for best value for a good quality user series of knives without getting too fancy. Could you make a few recommendations?
Thank you DCA for answering my question! For context my cousin is a photographer and for certain settings (taking wedding photos outside) he shouldn’t whip out a big tactical knife so a small classy knife is less alarming, he would also need to maybe get branches out of the shot.
Maybe a victorinox, something like the Alox Farmer X or even a multitool like a leatherman rebar ?
Yeah, an Alox Swiss Army knife with both a blade and wood saw would look great and do exactly what is needed. Bonus points for the scissors on the Farmer X if he needs to trim some loose string on a piece of clothing to clean up a shot -DCA
Thanks! I’ll let him check out the Farmer X and see what he thinks. I imagine he’ll like it since both him and I grew up on a farm in northern Saskatchewan! Kind of ironic if you ask me! Anyways thanks David for answering my question! Looking forward to what’s next for TKC
Crkt CEO is a great proffesional option
Hello sir! I know this is an old video… you may not even see this…
I am very new to the folder/survival/bushcraft/fix blade world but I have been a kitchen knife enthusiast and collector (also chef for 24 years) so I definitely understand steel.
To piggyback off of this segment:
When you say Toughness what exactly are you referring to? Stainless steels are obviously alloys designed to improve rust prevention, ductility, etc… wouldn’t you then consider stainless knives to be more “tough”? Now trust me I own almost entirely carbon steel knives and I prefer them but I also know that if I took a 66hrc carbon knife and smashed a log against the side of one or even dropped it on a rock it would be far more likely to chip or snap due to the high hardness and subsequent brittleness. Obviously all steals are different and some are more brittle than others, I am just speaking generally.
I have just always considered stainless, especially your lower end less expensive stainless steel to be far more tough, and ductile than a higher end harder carbon steel. Obviously you are giving up edge retention and ease of sharpening for those benefits.
What am I missing?
I’m a massive fan of the channel! Watch your videos every day.. literally. Keep up the awesome content.
Getting a quality kitchen knife is a good choice. It makes weekend meal prep a much enjoyable experience.
The Appalachian Drifter is probably the best looking knife that civivi makes and S35VN for $85 is awesome. They need to do a run in liner lock and I'm all over it!
I love this series. Thank you. I've done some simple knife modification in the past but would love to hear a segment on what modifications are easily possible by DIY, what mods are commonly commercially available, and most of all, what (relatively) moderate priced knives can be easily modded to raise their "edc value" (looks, ease of use, changes to make more edc friendly or expand capabilities). For example, I've taken my $30 RAT 2, and through mods and an M390 steel upgrade, now have a knife that will last a lifetime and actually worth handing down to family.
Hey DCA. I recently bought a knife online and hated it the second I opened it. It just seemed cheaply made, didn't feel great, and I regretted buying it. However, after some regular use, I realized it was really fun to fidget with and it gets the job done nicely in most cases. It's now one of my favorite knives. Have you ever had a knife you hated at first but ended up loving?
Dear DCA. Thanks for the great show. A huge chunk of the knives you describe, fixed-blades and folders, as suitable for food cutting in camping, hunting, or kitchen situations. You clearly use many yourself with food. How do you clean them hygienically afterwards? I hear horror stories of dishwashers' heat destroying the heat-treatment/melting handles of fancy knives. I've had to dismantle a folder that was completely gummed up by fruit at a picnic. CRKT's field-strip helps, but I also use a Buck 110, which doesn't strip at all. Please give us the benefit of your experience.
Soap and warm water, hand washed only. Sometimes while camping I'll just use Clorox wipes but I'm not actually sure that is safe lol -DCA
In my opinion Mr. David is always spot on. this time he is spot on about the d2 steel In particular it would not be my go to for camping. Shout out to knife center always keeping me posted thank you
What about Sandvik like the Ruike Jager? Tougher, more stainless and easier to sharpen? Gonna see if I like that or the QSP Bison more!
It all comes down to what you like I personally like all knives. Somethings will just make it easier to cut and save time. Hope you have a good day. Buy what you like and like what you buy.
Good stuff as always! Regarding an easy opener with the look and feel of a classic slip joint, I could not recommend too highly the Kizer Pinch.
Barkeepers Friend is also my go to cleaner to remove metal residue from all my ceramic sharpening rods & slips. It simply works like magic!
Love that stuff! -DCA
Thank you for answering my question! Based on your suggestion, I just bought the CIVIVI Appalacian Drifter. Hopefully, my Dad will be able to use it.
Dogfish Head Raison d'Etre is one of my favorite beers of all time, and I served it at my wedding.
Howzit DCA.two questions: 1) I am looking for new gloves whilst bushcrafting, camping and whittling. Can you recommend cut resistant gloves? I handle very sharp knives and I have had a few close calls even when being careful.2) leather vs kydex sheath.
Oh and one critique. Its horrible to wait a week to watch a new FAQ episode. Its too great for one episode a week.
Good call on the first question,I would love a recommendation on some good cut resistant gloves as well
Really like the shape on your kitchen knife. Never worry about cost on a kitchen knife, especially your main chef’s knife or santoku. It’s been in my hand probably close to a thousand hours while my pocket knives can only dream of such use. I use on occasion an old (1989???) Gerber set my dad gave me but primarily I use the Wustholf classic series. I know, there are better knives... and I’m shopping!
For removing surface rust.... If you use a sharpening stone, take some of the slurry you get when sharpening the edge and use it to polish the rust off. If you do it with your finest grit stone, you shouldn't damage the finish on the blade.
I've been enjoying the series, DCA. A comment about the old coot and his slip joint problem: I'm 80 and it's my nails that now suffer badly when I attempt to use my slip joint Swiss Army knives or any other device that need strong nails to open. I'd suggest getting more knowledge about the issue. For example, I'm strong enough to deal with an Axis lock and the wrist.snap open/close motions too, and for sure wouldn't like a non-locking EDC knife.
Ravecoin - I'd add a couple of suggestions to DCA: 1) Spyderco Shaman - I's not the thinnest overall (it's not fat by any means) and the contoured handle is phenomenally comfortable. 2) Spyderco Brian Lai Amalgam - Carbon fiber/G-10, Compression Lock, world-class quality and design, this is a top shelf knife. 3) Benchmade Freek - You get 3.6" of M4 blade steel, Axis lock, and a ridiculously comfortable knife. Excellent choice. 4) (well, 3.5 actually, it falls a little short) Spyderco Paramilitary 2 - The blades are just under that 3.5 inch mark, but you can pre-order the PM2 in CPM-Cruwear steel at 3.47". Cruwear is an absolute monster in terms of steel quality.
Yes, love Barkeeper's Friend. Good call, David.
I’m really liking this FAQ series. Very interesting!
- David, You mentioned a couple of times that as you've gotten deeper into Bladesmithing you upgraded from a Ken Onion edition worksharp belt grinder to a more robust one. I'm not sure if you've ever gone into detail about what you ended up purchasing, but I'm interested in knowing what you use.
What would you recommend for storing knives I keep mine in a 8 drawer wood tool chest everything from my traditional to tactical knives
David NAILED it with the ZT 0425!
Fantastic video!!!!! And what was in my pocket today was my coldsteel range boss...... and for 44 bucks it’s one of my favorites!!!! Thanks guys!!!!!!
My Craford/Casper CK Folder is my heaviest-duty knife.. Never had to take apart. perfect centering and turns into a fixed blade. $25.00 way back when. They are still worth the $35 KC is asking on their site I'd say.
Thick steel that's got a real caracote too.
Definitely the best answer I could have gotten, thanks DCA!
I absolutely love this series and your presentation style, extensive knowledge, empathy and experience (with the occasional interjection of dry wit), makes for the finest knife show out there!
I’d be overjoyed if you could answer my question for the next instalment: I’m looking for a small neck knife/companion knife to attach to my belt for a horizontal cross draw, ideally with a good edge retention but easy sharpening steel and strength for the occasional fire making tasks (feather sticking & kindling batoning, alongside the usual day to day tasks).
I have my eye on the Rainier Fastpak as this seems to fulfil nearly all of my requirements especially wit elmax steel as well as the Attleboro Knives Dau Tran and the White River Backpacker (I may well be wrong but feel the Braford Guardian is perhaps a little too chunky).
I would love to know your thoughts and would be ever so grateful for any suggestions!
Thank you very much for all of your marvellous work and imparting your superb knowledge.
My warmest regards to all at the knife centre
Ben
Thank you very much for the kind words Ben! I am on record for my full-throated endorsement of the White River Backpacker. Covers so many bases and the quality is top notch. If you want a better feel in the hand, go with one of the G10 handle versions (which are removable) or step up to their Caper model, which is the same shape with permanantly attached contoured scales. Cheers! -DCA
Thank you very much indeed David!! I shall be putting in my order for the phenomenal White River Backpacker (G10!) - per your recommendation!! Thank you ever so much again for taking the time to answer this!
My warmest regards to all at The Knife Centre
Ben
When I picked up my BM 710 back in the day, D2 was high end steel. :) I'm happy that it has become the entry level blade steel these days.
Michael DeCarolis - If you can swing $140, you cannot do better than the Cold Steel SRK in CPM-3V steel. If that's too much, they also make an SK-5 version for $45, you give up a little toughness and edge-holding, but still an excellent knife. Alternatively, look at any of the Condor fixed blades. My first choices would be: Selknam, Hudson Bay, Pictus, Primitive Bush Knife, Solobolo, Low Drag, there are lots of great choices. They are mainly 1075 or 1095 (a few 420HC thrown in) which means they are TOUGH, TOUGH, TOUGH, as long as you're not spending too much time in salt water the blade care isn't difficult.
Blade alignment should not rely on screw tension. It's way more likely that a mistake was made during reassembly or a worn washer or bushing needs replacing.
AEB-L and Nitro-V have good toughness for stainless steels but I love 5160 for a large hard use knife. 👍🏻
No doubt,Im a big fan of AEB-L and Nitro-V for stainless..I personally want to see more fixed blades in LC200N,it’s ridiculously tough stainless,it’s highly resistant to corrosion and it has pretty decent edge retention to boot...VG-10 and N690 would be decent options too as they are really well balanced steels and they sharpen up easily..Sandvik 12C24N or 14C28N too..these steels may not be considered “super steels” (minus LC200N)..yet they are solid performers and could keep the prices reasonable as well..Vanax and Elmax are pretty sweet as well, and are really well balanced stainless steels
@@garrettferrell6821 yeah LC200N is good but the bar stock is harder to come by so maybe that’s why it hasn’t been used much. I haven’t tried 14C28N but it’s supposed to be good stuff.
Have a fairly specific question for you: I have been carrying a pocket knife for a while but am only recently getting into the knife game as a whole.
Currently, I tend to carry my Kershaw Leek or Cold Steel Crawford the most, but am looking for something a bit different. Hoping to find a non-assisted flipper, roughly 3.5-3.75”, but with a safety to keep it from opening. Basically, my Crawford but with the ability to lock it closed. Family guy, so always am carrying around the kids and would prefer the added peace of mind, I’ve had the Crawford partially open and was not too excited about that. Less than $100 ideal.. thanks!
Would love to see a video on best movie knives
Magnacut will probably be the best stainless for survival knives, once it's in wider availability. 14c28n is basically as tough as AEB-L, but with much better stain resistance.
If they put micarta scales on that bona fide knife I'd buy it. The aluminum scales are too slippery.
They 1st CRKT is a stunning knife design. Raison de Etre is a great dating 'Reason for being'.
If the older man who is looking for a new knife wants another option, the CRKT Symmetry might be worth looking at. It's a budget detent joint, and it's pretty slim and easy to get in and out of a pocket.
Love my bark river bravo 1 lt. Cpm3v while not true stainless is very corrosion resistant. The convex grind/sharpening works great and I maintain edge using work sharp blade grinding attachment. Edge gets better and better as it's used and stropped. You'll need alot of sanding belts to sharpen that 3v though hahahaha
Definitely want the 5 and 15 back. Was able to snag the 5 before it vanished, but not so lucky with the 15.
Whats a good multitool for outdoor with a good plain edge knife and with a pocketclip under 60 to 70 dollars. I dont really care if it is plier based of not. Just a good allround multitool. Love the video’s’!!!!
Lovin’ it, as always! Can you please do a segment on the strengths of the Kephart design and show some “modern” examples? Thanks again
i hope the older gentlemen like the civivi you suggested...it' would be cool if we can get a follow up...i would love to hear his opinion on the new detent systems
Recently I found out I have to comply with a blade length limit. I haven't had issues so far, and I'd like to keep It that way. What folders could you suggest that are at least four inches closed, have a blade no longer than three inches, don't scream "tactical," and are $100 or less? American-made is a bonus. Instead of the Civivis I'm sure everyone else and his brother would recommend, I'd be interested in something offbeat, unusual, or just plain obscure. Thanks!
Check out some of these options: ruclips.net/video/SU-C1Y1W8X0/видео.html
And some of these ruclips.net/video/qg5YgyzGzj8/видео.html
Buck 112 Slim Pro could be nice. American made, S30V steel, and complies with the blade length and price requirement.
@@knifecenter The Buck 112 has already been recommended to me, so I'll definitely pick up one of those sometime. I can also see the Scallion, Mini Griptilian, and Para 3 working well. I have a Dragonfly 2 as a situational carrier, and the Delica 4 (also worthy of a mention) is a favorite of mine. Thanks again!
I love 3V for survival knives, not cheap of course but very tough and great edge holding. Easy enough to through some oil or wax on it though to prevent rust, especially if you know you don't need it to be food safe oil.
3V is great and has some pretty decent corrosion resistance for a carbon steel. 5160 is even tougher and has good enough edge holding for battoning and feather-sticking but is more prone to corrosion. Camellia oil is great and food safe. 👍🏻
@@jkanecutlery 5160 is excellent and much less expensive than 3V knives to boot. I don't know how much of that is raw materials and how much it is manufacturing costs but hard to argue with the value on a 51XX series steel knife.
3V holds an edge a little better and for my personal use I am willing to trade a little toughness for that and better corrosion resistance. I typically have an ax with me, if I was backpacking frequently and could only bring a large knife, 5160 and a nice oily towel just in case it needed some replenishment would likely be a better choice though. Definitely comes down to application. I love m390 for a little pocket knife to carry in my pocket but a big 7-8"+ m390 "survival" knife wouldnt be able to do a lot of big knife stuff that one would expect without me worrying I was gonna chip the edge which is a bit of a pain to sharpen. At home, on a large diamond stone, no problem but in the field .. eh
@@jolness1 Agree, definitely comes down to application. I always camp with an Fallkniven F1 in 3G but I’m not too aggressive with it. I usually bring an axe or larger knife too but I’m looking to pare down to one all-purpose camp knife.
Hi David, what would you recommend as the best all-around chefs knife in the $150-200 price range? Thx!
Probably the ja henckels
Hello DCA and KC, love the series. My favorite knife design of all time is Spyderco Tenacious, esp. the opening mechanism "Spydey Hole in the blade" versus a thumb stud. I am looking to upgrade outside of Spyderco, do you have any suggestions for a upgrade with similar size, but has the same opening mechanism "thumb hole in the blade". Thank you, Jon
A Benchmade Griptillian with the sheepsfoot blade and thumb hole comes to mind as a nice upgrade.
The Civivi Dogma or Riffle may be worth checking out as well.
@@raylaylin4229 Thank you, I'll check those knives out.
I’ve got the Spyderco Resilience Lite in S35VN. It’s a great knife and surprisingly I really like the handles.. they’re solid and grippy in the hand. I had ordered a set of micarta scales but doubt if I’m going to install them..maybe I can reshape them to fit one of my G10 Spyderco’s.. (I’ll have to fill and redrill holes)
The discontinued knife I'd love to see back is the Cold Steel AK-47 mini. Mine is pretty heavily worn and have never quite found anything that matched the hand feel and pocket feel. DCA, any thoughts on a similar replacement?
I’ve been considering getting the full-size Cold Steel AK-47 fixed blade for a while now..I have zero interest in the folder version but the fixed blade is a good looking knife
@@garrettferrell6821 Yea the full size folder just doesn't do it at all.
Not quite the same, but check out the new Cold Steel Recon Mini -DCA
Really enjoying the content. I have spent a large amount of my vacation time from work watching your videos and absorbing as much knowledge as I can. Thanks for the entertainment
Pretty fond of my Esee-4 and Esee-6
I’m not a fan of the ESEE 4,I feel the blade is too thick for a knife of its length.I feel like the ESEE 4 is a jack of all trades but a master of none..I absolutely love the ESEE 3,ESEE 6 and Junglas though.I keep my S35VN ESEE 3 and my Junglas on my camping gear bag/Bugout bag
For that older gent the Boker plus voortrecker is excellent, it's a friction folder in D2 with G10 scales
That's a great shout.
I’ve recently bought a couple Off Grid Knives - what’s your opinion on them ?
David I recently bought a leatheman squirt PS4 and the knife blade has a chisel grind. Is there a reason why we don't see this grind used more often on knives?
I’m guessing because it doesnt slice as well .
After watching Forged In Fire, many blacksmith use 5160 steel aka leaf spring steel, what’s a steel that has similar properties as 5160 steel?
A8mod
I tend to lump 52100 in a similar category, broadly speaking -DCA
5:11 the old man could get a Victorinox ranger wood 55, easy locking mechanism, beautiful tool.
For some time now, Amazon has started restricting the sale of a number of non automatic/non flipper knives to NYC residents.
As a knife afficionado/ wannabe collector, I'm really frustrated and I find myself more and more thinking of buying Chinese knockoffs just to have something to play with. Is there a way to clarify the restriction definition so that us New Yorkers can join in the fun?
Always amazing content!! Keep up the incredible work!! Have an amazing weekend good sir!
Aside from blade thickness that Benchmade Meatcrafter's blade profile is almost identical to the now-discontinued Becker BK-15. Only thing missing is the finger choil.
Great job with the FAQ videos. 2020 is the year that I have learned a lot about knives. Your videos have been instrumental in my knife education.
So I am a huge fan of the traditional look of metal bolsters. I’m not a fan of slip joints, where they usually show up.
I would probably go broke if all those traditional slip joints added a liner lock.
The Lionsteel Gitano is awesome, but I’m not interested in it as a slip joint.
Is there a knife that you recommend that could convey that vibe with a nice lock, any type.
Also, if there’s any knives with bolsters that have a traditional look, but with more modern functionality that are underappreciated I would love to hear about those.
Hi is it worth buying the range boss from cold steel or should I wait for the broken skull. I can sharpen my own knives but the price difference seems very big.
How many folding knives can you reasonably carry at once? I'll define reasonable you never have to touch/move one to get to another. I'll put the over /under at 11
Hey DCA, with the quality of EDC fixed blades and carry options going way up, do you see any reason to carry a folder (other than legal reasons)? I’m a fixed blade fan and have completely moved away from folders. Thanks!
For EDC I personally prefer a good folder overall but I’m still a huge fan of my Bradford Guardian 3 and my ESEE Izula and would love to add a few more EDC fixed blades to my collection
Hey David,
Thx for the videos. They’re a welcomed escape as I decompress from the week.
What would you suggest for a bikepacking blade? I often lead mid/high school students on these trips. Due to the amount of bushcrafting, I think a fixed blade is a plan. Attaching it to the handlebars would allow for a longer blade as I’d like to avoid carrying a hatchet due to the added weight.
Thx C
Is the puma white hunter in stainless steel a good knife?
Hi, DCA! Love the series! Could you please recommend a nice steak knife/knife set? And semi-serious question. What is the most charismatic (fancy or/and brutal) knife for cutting a steak? Classic SOG Pentagon dagger?.. Buck 119/120?..
AEB-L and 14C28N are tougher than the vast majority of carbon steels.
14c28n is almost a perfect steel in my mind. It doesn't break the bank, it's easy to sharpen, it strops amazingly and you can get such a fine edge on it too.
Obviously there are steels that are better at each thing, but none are so well rounded at such a good price.
Enjoying this series of videos. I was wondering if there were any folding knives (one hand opening, locking knives) that utilized a little bit more exotic material for the liner, like brass or copper. Going for a gentleman style knife, around 3.25 inches of blade. Budget around 100 bucks. Any suggestions?
Love the G-Mascus Red Lava G10 Handles on that Blade Center Exclusive Hogue Deka, just wish they'd put the modified wharncliffe blade between them!
It is happening -DCA
hi DCA...I really like CKF Evo 2.0 but it's little expensive for me. Is there any other knife of similar design but at lover cost? Maybe around $100 or lower? Thanks and keep up a good work 👍
Hello, what do you think oh the Horl sharpeners? Have you already tested it? Many thanks for your videos and for your answer.
Question: I am looking to grab a couple of chef's knives but I'm looking for something with a "better" steel. High carbon knives are great and VG10 is just fine but I am looking for something in s35vn or even m390 (I know it isn't very tough but it will be fine for my usage) I know tops has one and Bradford makes one in m390 (but KC doesn't stock it)
Any recommendations? Thanks DCA and team for great content.
On the subject of developing rust and tarnish,,, one thing people don't put together all the time is ,,,, their diet. When you eat, your body goes into a chemical frenzy, and when you eat some foods, your skin becomes extremely caustic. Actually, you can even be uncomfortable to the touch by someone who is "clean" of junkfood. It's just something you have to pay attention to, but depending on what you eat, you might want to wait the day out to then go and handle your favorite steels. An excellent example of this is guitar strings. You can learn a lot by paying attention to what you eat, and then paying attention to what happens to your guitar strings. I won't play my favorite guitars unless I've had a very clean day, no extra sugar, plenty of vegetables, not much meat,, just because it will cause so much damage to the metals. (maybe the finish too, but mostly you notice the metals). caustic greases on your skin will seem to "clean the metal",, but later, it will show rust in those reacted areas
DCA, do you know of a more affordable (under $200) alternative to the Pena X-series Trapper? I love the style and don't want a slip joint or back lock. I have the Civivi Appalachian Drifter and like it, but it's not particularly safe to use for harder tasks. Thanks!
On steel type question guess it would depend on environment(eg saltwater) so L200/Vanax etc, correct?Any other you might suggest?
Hey DCA! I’m curious if there are any good budget options for a titanium frame lock knife. Anything under $100 or so
Might be worth looking at the Ti-22 from Ontario, I believe it was featured in the previous episode (right at the beginning) - a very nice looking knife! …Hope that helps!
You should check out Kizer,they often have frame lock knives in titanium+S35VN blade steel on sale for as low as $80..Kizer knives are made in China but they are amazing high quality knives
@@benbeattie4609 It does, thanks!
@@garrettferrell6821 I definitely will, thanks!
Ben suggested the Ontario already, which is exactly what I was going to recommend! -DCA
Looking for a very tough edc(1/4", maybe 3/16" spine), D2 or better edge retention, folder, with a lock that keeps the hand away from the blade, ambi, thin handles, deep carry clip, less than 100$. Job is for hyd hose edge trimming, wires, maintenance work. Assisted/flipper if possible. Any ideas?
Hey, hey DCA! The Spyderco Shaman, tell us what you think about it and if KnifeCenter is coming out with an exclusive this year...
Any recommendations for a edc for truckers? Thinking maybe with glass breaker and seatbelt cutter. No Chineseum.
David...I work in an industry where I use my knife daily to the point where it could definitely be described as “hard use”. I’m looking for something in the 3-3.5” range and my budget max is $125. Can you recommend something I won’t have to replace in a matter of a couple months? Thank You always for the info...God Bless.
What kind of blade shape do you need? -DCA
For easy locking and opening, the Opinel is a no-brainer. Just twist to lock.
Hey DCA! Love the content. I was wondering if you could suggest a great "chopping" survival knife. I know you like going the spectrum of price. So any suggestions would be great. Thanks for doing what you're doing.
Becker BK9, ESEE Junglas, Ontario SP5. -DCA
Hey David! Was just sharpening my Cold Steel Recon 1 that I purchased second hand unfortunately. What steel type is The Recon 1? I haven't really been carrying this knife but this knife is comfortable. The cool thing how the specs trick you into thinking it's heavy which is not. I am a big fan of the Benchmade Turret model but it simply is too heavy for EDC. Is there a mini Turret from Benchmade? Thank you
The Recon 1 is either AUS-8A, CTS-XHP or S35vn, depending on which generation you have. Old style matte coating is AUS-8A, shiny/inky DLC coating is one of the other two. It doesn't say on the blade? Can't help you about the Turret.
Hey DCA! My 21st birthday is coming up and I’m looking to acquire my first nice knife. I’ve carried a Gerber Remix for about a year now and the quality is not holding up. I’m looking for something all metal, less than $300, and made in the US. I go to school in Manhattan and am looking for something that I can legally carry there (concealable, less than 4in, etc...). I currently have my eyes set on the ZT 0450 all titanium model. The knife seems to hit all of my marks. I’ve held the knife and it fits my hand well which is a concern I’ve heard. I also love the snappy action and the clean aesthetic. I’ll be using the knife as an edc in light and moderate use cases as a mechanical engineering student. I was wondering if you could convince me that this would be a good “first” knife that fits my needs, or if you would have any better recommendations? I was also wondering if you would have any recommendations for a inconspicuous super deep carry pocket clip as a replacement for the one stock on the knife? Love your videos!
Best,
Levi Sheridan
Thought I’d include a link to some FAQ’s on NYC’s insane knife laws...
www1.nyc.gov/site/nypd/about/faq/knives-faq.page
Always great content, thank you sir.
Peace & best regards from Germany.
David, I love your French !
FAQ: Hi David !!! I really love your videos and knowledge... I need another knife :D Knife for gentleman carry, but for daily hard work also... Extra deep or deep carry pocket clip, flush screws. My edc nowadays is Spyderco Sage 1 and it is perfect for me... But you know the NEED to buy something new :) Thank you for your answer in next video and thank you for what you doing for us. Keep up the good work. Greetings from Central Europe
I own over three hundred knives, my favorite work knife and everyday carry is an Old Timer Barlow. Go figure.
Follow-up question: You say the stainless has better edge-retention; then you say that it is more difficult to sharpen - right, that makes sense. Later you say that 1095 is "tougher" than stainless and that this could be more important even than edge retention. That's where I got stranded - what do you mean by "tough"? Does that refer to the knife blade breaking? If not (it sounds to me that with even very hard usage this is pretty uncommon. With abnormal abuse I suppose a blade could possible snap), then what? If this "toughness" is the only area of superiority over stainless, why do most reviewers see HC steel as "must have"? It's highly unlikely I'd ever abuse any knife to the extent that the blade will snap!
I would really like to hear arguments for a revival of stainless steel blades, as for me the advantages are of real value over HC steel.
Thanks Dave.
Get the Kleenex, I've got a sad story to tell as a preface to my question... About a thousand years ago I had a Benchmade Kodiak I carried for nearly a decade and then lost it, and even though I've had several fine edc knives since then I still miss my Kodiak, so my question is, where's the best place to look for knives that are out of production and should I fail to find what I'm looking for, is there anything currently in production similar to the Kodiak for under $150?
Your video editor did a booboo. When the cameraman told you "Good job" for your pronunciation of Wusthof, instead of putting an exclamation point (!) at the end they put a capital "i" (I) so you screen read out "GOOD JOBI" instead of "GOOD JOB!" It took nothing away from the enjoyability of your video, it's just that your production values have gotten so high it's almost like it's a privilege to be able to point out an "Uh-Oh" from you. Still the best knife guys on YT.
Good catch, Thomas loses his ice cream privileges this week... -DCA
That spyderco delica reminds me of my spyderco vintage harpy !
Looking for a nice stiletto, any recommendations? Similar design language as Extrema Ratio would be a plus.
Very entertaining as always, thanks.
My fave EDC knife has been my qsp hawk with s35vn and I was wondering if there was anything else with a similar size and build with s35vn that has both a flipper and thumbstuds preferably. Ideally under 200$ but can spend more if needed. Thanks
I would like to know what is the cheapest edc knife that you would fairly recommend
My guess would probably be something like an OKC RAT1 or RAT2..a KaBar Dozier or possibly a Steel Will Cutjack or a CRKT Pilar..all the above are great budget friendly options and all can be bought in D2 Steel for $50 or less..If you are comfortable spending $50-$60 you can choose through a wide variety of knives from Civivi in D2,Sandvik 14C28N,9Cr18MoV and 154CM
KA-BAR Dozier in AUS-8 for not much more than 20 bucks. All day every day. -DCA
The best steel for a survival knife, IMO, is an inexpensive, tough stainless like 420HC. While the expensive crucible steels have very high edge retention, should they require sharpening in the field, they are very difficult to sharpen with field-expedient sharpening methods. Unless you value historical re-enactment, in which case, you will want an uncoated carbon steel knife, and will likely be carrying the things with you necessary to care for uncoated carbon steel in the backcountry, stainless is best for most people.
Any knife is only as good as its edge, and I'd trust my life to a cheap knife and a cheap sharpener before I'd trust my safety to an expensive knife and a cheap sharpener, because the cheap sharpener will put a serviceable edge on a cheap knife, but won't be able to do the same on an expensive exotic steel. The most important knife skill is sharpening. If you can't maintain a good edge under adverse conditions, then you only have a temporary knife. The most expensive steel I'd bother with in a survival knife is 440C, for this reason, but 420HC is even better, with higher toughness, higher corrosion resistance, and even easier sharpening, at an even lower cost.
Comparing 1095 high carbon steel to 420HC high carbon stainless, the two have similar hardness, toughness, and edge retention, but 420HC has corrosion resistance that approaches that of expensive crucible steels, and 420HC is only slightly more expensive than 1095. I'll take 420HC any day of the week over virtually any other steel for backcountry/survival use.
Discoed - love that term!
What’s going on with Spyderco? I want to buy a PM2 (preferably the Cruware Mircarta), but they seem to be sold out everywhere. Even the standard model. Are they becoming discontinued or something?
Hope not. I've been trying to bring myself to look past the price tag and how visually bland the knife looks in order to justify in my head that I should get a Spyderco. The pm2 is the only one I would consider at the price since I want more than a 3 in blade.
They are supposed to be making the standard models PM2,PM3,Shaman,etc in S45VN..I don’t know if that means they are leaving the S30V behind or if they will have both versions available but I’m definitely looking forward to their S45VN models
James Goodrum I don’t mean to tell you what to do and how to spend your money but you should really check out a PM2.Ive been collecting knives for some years now and I have yet to find a folding knife that I like better than the PM2..sure,there are nicer higher quality knives out there but I’ve yet to find anything I would rather use than the PM2..it feels great when you hold it behind the choil and feels just as amazing when you choke up on the blade using the finger choil and thumb ramp.the compression lock is an excellent locking system,it a really strong lock and it’s also a fun lock to fidget around with..I’m a fan of the Spydie hole as well,as it makes the blade flick out with ease..I love the wide leaf shaped blade with the full flat grind too,it makes for one hell of a slicer..in all honesty,the PM2 is as close to the perfect designed knife I believe I will ever see..I personally didn’t understand the Spyderco craze myself years ago but after seeing the praise the PM2 has always got from the knife community,I had to see what all the fuss was about and it didn’t take me long to fall in love
Not discontinued, just crazy high demand for their US made stuff right now. First batches of the CruWear PM2 have not even landed yet -DCA
Why don't you show some re- centering tips..Usually can loosen pivot put a piece of folded paper the distance to make it centered,then re tighten pivot to desired action.Will work in most cases.....
David will the Benchmade 710 ever come back ?
DCA, I want to replace my entry level kitchen knives with knives of better quality. I’m interested in building my own set with individual knives. I’m not particularly concerned about price, but I am looking for best value for a good quality user series of knives without getting too fancy. Could you make a few recommendations?
Check these out: ruclips.net/video/YnkTyrT3wYA/видео.html
Due Cigni knives from Italy. -DCA
Hello big fan of Knife Center. What do you think about Jeo-Tec SS knives?