I had to push the outer sleeve in with a vice, it was not going in any other way! If my calculations are correct, then with my muscles, the length of the vice arm I reckon 12 ton is about right 😉
I did this to my cooper, had to do it to fit the R56 spec rear calipers. Not quite sure what the advantage is. The car feels exactly the same as it did before though.
The control arms came from Orranje Performance. The bushes that come with them are not the best though. I had PowerFlex manufacture some better replacements
14:10 Are these bushing brackets the R53 style or the R56 style like the aluminum trailing arms come with? Im doing the same upgrade and don't know which to use?
David Nilsen not sure if the difference, but I believe there is little. The early model had 80mm bush the R53 and R56 have 60mm. I used the holders that came with the aluminium arms and they were exactly the same as the holders I took off the car. So depends on which year your car is and whether you want to maintain that.
The brackets Are exactly The same for facelift r53 with r56 The only difference is that the r56 aluminium arms have conical shape so if you order powerflex bushes you have to order for r56 not r53
@@vasilisrroshi8642 thanks Vasilis, I was going to try add an image, but not sure if that works. There should be a view of this only early Ep3 videos when I prepared the parts
Hi, thanks for the comment. May I confirm what you mean by canister? I am going to assume one of two things: canister as in can of paint, but this is not massively related to R53. Or did you mean castor as in the angle of the wheel in relation to the road? Of that is your meaning, then this was set as standard r53 castor. I will try dig out the wheel alignment sheet
Thank you! They are Silver Project arms. Note the bushes that come with them are not great. Some people have no issue, others have big issues. If you look at my other videos I discuss the issue and what I did about it
Nice when shiny bits go back on ,I have just replaced the near side rear anti roll bar Bush with a power flex ,the bolts were very corroded but I managed to remove them but the off side I can’t undo them it seams they have corroded to much and won’t budge any ideas to remove them?
If you are doing in situ it will make it more interesting. Heat and then cold is one way. The problem with heat is you are quite close to the chassis and you do not want to remove any paint or seam sealer! You can try soak it in penetrating oil and leave for a few hours or until the next day. Make sure you are using a hex socket and not the multi style as these let go quicker! The other option is to try tightening them up first, they do not have a high torque setting so you should be able to try that first. Worst case you can try use a chisel in the side of the nut, but you are then at risk of damaging too much!
Hyphens Classics Hi yes using a 13mm hex socket I little to near the fuel tank to use some heat yes the sub frame is in situ i have sprayed them with lots of penetrating oil so will leave that on and try again when it stops raining 👍
Comment to Sean Williams, part 12 can be viewed at this link ruclips.net/video/XCdwjVdW2YA/видео.html Sorry it is not a reply to your comment, but RUclips is not showing your comment to me
So. I've skimmed thru almost the whole project...and was wondering. WHAT Parts from what year? Wife bent right rear up into itself. On my '03 'S' Model. Cross Member is torn out etc. I could use a part list for shopping. I'd love to swap out all the rusty steel with Alum frames
Hi Jerome, the subframe is the same across the two cars and into the R56. The aluminium arms will fit on both the prefacelift and the facelift model, the difference is in the carrier. However, if you get the aluminium arms from a wrecker they can come with the carrier already, which you can swap out for the carrier you have. The difference is one as 60mm bush and the other has 80mm bush. I also did a summary review of the build recently that listed parts and prices I paid
@@jeromea1659 I was considering putting a kit together, but I would need to create multiple to suite people’s needs and I had seen others doing it so did not bother at the time
@@hyphensclassics Still doing the 'footwork' and online comparisons. This eBay store in Florida were awesome to deal with. (🚑Boot release cable...broke it crawling in & out doing 😬🙄Stereo😡🤬 HarmonKarNone🤣...that White Link rod I broke; want on 'new cable's. 🧸with me 😅 I wrote a Review 😥no White thingy 😥 A few days later...I got a phone call..I.D. said Cemetery Managment 555 1555😉. Curiously enough I answered it😅 it was the parts/ wrecking yard from Ebay. Gave a description of White link. And they stuck it to a postcard and Mailed it to me..2 days after they found one of those Tiny white links. 😅😅😅🤣
Thank you Garrie, indeed these are the items. Please note that there are two types 60mm and 80mm, make sure you get the right one. The early Mini's use the 60mm, my car is 2005 and I have used the 80mm. This is all noted on the Powerflex website. I purchased mine, along with the sway bar, BC coil overs, SilverLine control arms, from Oli at Orranje.co.uk
Thanks Garrie, I figure that while what I am doing can be interesting, no one needs to watch me find a bolt, fit it, tighten it, torque it and then all the associated finding of the right tools...so much better in 2x, 4x, 8x or even 20x speed! Not to mention if I did not, then I would be up to part 50 by now!!
Hi Reza, the part will depend slightly on your year of R53 as the rear arm mount had different bush sizes from ore-facelift to face lift. Easiest solution is to use the R56 trailing arm brackets and the arms. The full kit, is PFR5-1103.
@@hyphensclassics Thanks for response, just bought this now, I had bought PFF5-101. My car is exact like your car :) I just bought R56 JCW Recaro seats in full leather that I will install. Also R56 JCW brake kit and KW2 coilers :)
@@KingReza it is all about adjusting the roll centre. E.g keeping as much of the tyre on the road. As you lower the car the wishbone (control arm) changes angles as does the coil over. So you need to change a number of parts to bring it back
Brill Video Bro.. Thumbs UP..
Thanks Bro appreciate it 😊
...it's coming along nicely....not sure I'd trust any bush that doesn't require a 12 ton press to replace though! :)
I had to push the outer sleeve in with a vice, it was not going in any other way! If my calculations are correct, then with my muscles, the length of the vice arm I reckon 12 ton is about right 😉
@@hyphensclassics 😂😂😂
Love your build I’m going to be doing soon
Thank you for watching. Good luck with you build, it is a rewarding project to undertake
I did this to my cooper, had to do it to fit the R56 spec rear calipers. Not quite sure what the advantage is. The car feels exactly the same as it did before though.
The aluminium arms reduce unsprung weight, this is good!
Also it does not rust, also very good!!
Love to have what and where you got the arms etc….
The control arms came from Orranje Performance. The bushes that come with them are not the best though. I had PowerFlex manufacture some better replacements
14:10 Are these bushing brackets the R53 style or the R56 style like the aluminum trailing arms come with? Im doing the same upgrade and don't know which to use?
David Nilsen not sure if the difference, but I believe there is little. The early model had 80mm bush the R53 and R56 have 60mm. I used the holders that came with the aluminium arms and they were exactly the same as the holders I took off the car.
So depends on which year your car is and whether you want to maintain that.
The brackets Are exactly The same for facelift r53 with r56 The only difference is that the r56 aluminium arms have conical shape so if you order powerflex bushes you have to order for r56 not r53
@@vasilisrroshi8642 thanks Vasilis, I was going to try add an image, but not sure if that works. There should be a view of this only early Ep3 videos when I prepared the parts
Do you know where and what kind of CANISTER r53 use?
Hi, thanks for the comment. May I confirm what you mean by canister? I am going to assume one of two things: canister as in can of paint, but this is not massively related to R53. Or did you mean castor as in the angle of the wheel in relation to the road? Of that is your meaning, then this was set as standard r53 castor. I will try dig out the wheel alignment sheet
Great job mate. Please what brand are your control arms. Been looking for yellow ones for a few days now.
Thank you! They are Silver Project arms. Note the bushes that come with them are not great. Some people have no issue, others have big issues.
If you look at my other videos I discuss the issue and what I did about it
@@hyphensclassics Thanks a lot.
Nice when shiny bits go back on ,I have just replaced the near side rear anti roll bar Bush with a power flex ,the bolts were very corroded but I managed to remove them but the off side I can’t undo them it seams they have corroded to much and won’t budge any ideas to remove them?
If you are doing in situ it will make it more interesting. Heat and then cold is one way. The problem with heat is you are quite close to the chassis and you do not want to remove any paint or seam sealer! You can try soak it in penetrating oil and leave for a few hours or until the next day. Make sure you are using a hex socket and not the multi style as these let go quicker!
The other option is to try tightening them up first, they do not have a high torque setting so you should be able to try that first.
Worst case you can try use a chisel in the side of the nut, but you are then at risk of damaging too much!
Hyphens Classics Hi yes using a 13mm hex socket I little to near the fuel tank to use some heat yes the sub frame is in situ i have sprayed them with lots of penetrating oil so will leave that on and try again when it stops raining 👍
Comment to Sean Williams, part 12 can be viewed at this link ruclips.net/video/XCdwjVdW2YA/видео.html
Sorry it is not a reply to your comment, but RUclips is not showing your comment to me
So. I've skimmed thru almost the whole project...and was wondering. WHAT Parts from what year? Wife bent right rear up into itself. On my '03 'S' Model. Cross Member is torn out etc. I could use a part list for shopping. I'd love to swap out all the rusty steel with Alum frames
Hi Jerome, the subframe is the same across the two cars and into the R56. The aluminium arms will fit on both the prefacelift and the facelift model, the difference is in the carrier. However, if you get the aluminium arms from a wrecker they can come with the carrier already, which you can swap out for the carrier you have.
The difference is one as 60mm bush and the other has 80mm bush.
I also did a summary review of the build recently that listed parts and prices I paid
@@hyphensclassics Nice. I found a 'Kit' online. Without the X member beam...Time to do some Haggling😉
@@jeromea1659 I was considering putting a kit together, but I would need to create multiple to suite people’s needs and I had seen others doing it so did not bother at the time
@@jeromea1659 let me know how your project goes
@@hyphensclassics Still doing the 'footwork' and online comparisons. This eBay store in Florida were awesome to deal with. (🚑Boot release cable...broke it crawling in & out doing 😬🙄Stereo😡🤬 HarmonKarNone🤣...that White Link rod I broke; want on 'new cable's. 🧸with me 😅 I wrote a Review 😥no White thingy 😥 A few days later...I got a phone call..I.D. said Cemetery Managment 555 1555😉. Curiously enough I answered it😅 it was the parts/ wrecking yard from Ebay. Gave a description of White link. And they stuck it to a postcard and Mailed it to me..2 days after they found one of those Tiny white links. 😅😅😅🤣
Hi there, do you have the part number for those bushes please
he has used www.powerflex.co.uk/product-details/Rear+Trailing+Arm+Front+Bush/11180.html
you can use inserts www.powerflex.co.uk/product-details/Rear+Trailing+Arm+Front+Bush+Inserts/685.html
Thank you Garrie, indeed these are the items. Please note that there are two types 60mm and 80mm, make sure you get the right one. The early Mini's use the 60mm, my car is 2005 and I have used the 80mm. This is all noted on the Powerflex website. I purchased mine, along with the sway bar, BC coil overs, SilverLine control arms, from Oli at Orranje.co.uk
@@hyphensclassics like your Mini work - love the fast forward button even more
Thanks Garrie, I figure that while what I am doing can be interesting, no one needs to watch me find a bolt, fit it, tighten it, torque it and then all the associated finding of the right tools...so much better in 2x, 4x, 8x or even 20x speed! Not to mention if I did not, then I would be up to part 50 by now!!
Hi what is the part number for the powerflex? Im doing this R56 trailing arms upgrade to my R53 and will upgrade to powerflex bushing
Hi Reza, the part will depend slightly on your year of R53 as the rear arm mount had different bush sizes from ore-facelift to face lift. Easiest solution is to use the R56 trailing arm brackets and the arms.
The full kit, is PFR5-1103.
@@hyphensclassics Thanks for response, just bought this now, I had bought PFF5-101. My car is exact like your car :) I just bought R56 JCW Recaro seats in full leather that I will install. Also R56 JCW brake kit and KW2 coilers :)
@@KingReza PFF5-101 is for the front control arm. It is a standard replacement, good if you are not lowering the car
@@hyphensclassics Thanks for taking time for comment, I did not know that. My car is very low
@@KingReza it is all about adjusting the roll centre. E.g keeping as much of the tyre on the road. As you lower the car the wishbone (control arm) changes angles as does the coil over. So you need to change a number of parts to bring it back