Thanks for the great content, I'm currently doing upgrades to my r53, I've not kept it stock but I must say I do love the blue colour with those jcw wheels you have. I have managed to push my car to about 235 hp dynod. Look forward to watching your other r53 content.
Hi Neil, Very sorry for not seeing this message! Embarrassing! Glad you enjoyed the video and I know you have been watching the other videos. 235 hp sounds like a good figure for these cars, something for me to be considering later in the year. I want to make sure mine is 100% underneath, suspension and brakes, before pushing more power. I remember when I first got it the brakes used to fade after about 15 min of hard driving. So I went to drilled and grooved brakes. This helped a little, but it was too small of an investment and not good enough for me to consider adding more power. Once this work is over, however, we should be in a great position to do something.
Bro you are a genius! seen this video before but now I understand why its such a Brill Mod for the R53 AND... I need to do this ASAP.. LOL :-) got rid of the oil leaks, installed an airtec intercooler, ramair cold induction colder plugs oil filter thermostat and radiator fan.. now running like it should.. but really do want a R56 subframe & suspension rebuild and the front callipers and disc upgrade.. slowly getting there. will give MAD4MINI in Leeds A Shout and ModAMini down south.. Both helped me out.. Bless
Glad you are getting there with your R53! I know the team at Mod-a-Mini, but not sure I know the Mad4mini team, glad you are getting there. If I can help with the rear suspension let me know. I have a couple of spare rear subframes that can be cleaned up and powder coated and sent to you.
Only just realised your in England 🙈. I’ve started the rust in the front towers and ... a bit further. I’ll get on to the back on day 😂 I’ve already done the trailing arm change though. Blasted, sprayed look beautiful
Peter Nicholls the brake lines should not go through the subframe, the handbrake or emergency brake cables go through it. Very simple just one bolt each side that hold a bracket to the frame. Let me know if you need some guidance on that
@@hyphensclassics OK! I'm taking the plunge and I'm going to do it this week! I've done the handbrake cables before, and the other suspension and trailing arms parts (R56 upgrade there!) - so wish me luck!
Hi, I've watched your videos rebuilding the front and rear suspension and brakes with great interest. Some very impressive work. Surprised to see how you struggled removing the front lower ball joints, the 15 year old ones on my Gen.1/R52 convertible came off easily despite also being regularly exposed to salty winter roads. Removing the hand brake cables from the rear calipers was a different story altogether (I had to cut them off in the end and replace both calipers and cables). It was very interesting to note that you were able to interchange the rear trailing arms with Gen. 2 aluminium ones. I wasn't aware that was possible (it provides a useful 5 kg wright saving in total). Now to my question: I need to replace the badly rusted rear subframe/ axle carrier (2005 Gen.1/R52 convertible). The convertible subframe har additional reinforcements to support the addition chassis tension struts that help stiffen the convertible body. It is hard to come by this part (OEM # 33316761716) secondhand in reasonable condition except from the US (but very costly shipping). However, when I look closely at the online original parts catalogue (BMW Mini ETK), the similar rear subframe part (OEM @) for the Gen.2/ R57 convertible (2007-on) looks completely identical. It even weighs the exact same (8.900 kg). Since the trailing arms fit, can anyone confirm whether the R57/R52 subframes are interchangeable??? It does seem probable. Has anyone tried this? Availability of the R57 part is naturally greater. Thanks for any tips! Best regards Bjorn
Hi Bjørn, Thank you for watching and subscribing, I am glad you have enjoyed the videos. I will have to investigate if the convertible subframe is the same, I understand the r56 and r53 subframes are the same so it makes some sense that the convertible units are. Unfortunately I have never take a convertible apart. I will ask some people and also mention it in the next video, maybe someone can answer that with authority
@@hyphensclassics Thanks for your quick response! If the R53/R56 subframes are interchangeable it certainly seems possible that the same applies to the convertible unit. Most important here of course is the width of the unit which seem to agree given your insight. All 5 bolt holes that connect to the body underside seem to be the same. I am not sure whether the track of a Gen.2 is a bit wider, but if so, surely that would boil down to the rim ET and the length of the trailing arms. Does that seem to make sense?
@@bjrnharaldgjestvang9479 it does, but note that the r52 was made through into 2007. The aluminium rear trailing arms were first seen on the GP1, which was the R53 base. So the arms should not be an issue. The R53 and R56 wheels are also interchangeable, 4x100, however the wheel bolts are not as they changed the thread and size. Things like the wheel bearings and wheel sensors also changed and are mostly not interchangeable.
Hi Oliver, some people will reuse the bolts, if they are in good nick, that may work and if you have a way of bringing them back to life through either nickel plating or if you just paint over the top after. I bought new ones from Shmiedmann.com as I was not sure on the quality of the bolts that I would have been removing. Before purchasing I did some digging on Shmiedmann as there were some varying reports on their service, but I had no issues what-so-ever. Best of luck with your build, are you also changing the brakes, control arms?
Unfortunatley there is not alot worth saving under my R53, thanks I will check that company out. Yes I am doing the whole lot. At the moment the only thing left on the car is the engine. Subframes are being powder coated, all new suspension (think I will go for the BC’s aswel) wanting to upgrade the brakes to R56 but not got that far yet ! I have watched your other video, good content 👍🏻 keep up the good work..
Hi there I’m watching this video as I’m planning on replacing the rear subframe with the race line subframe from Euro Car parts . I’ve got a 08 cooper D . My question to you is where did you get the replacement hardware from ie the bolts. Do you have any info I can have with getting my hands on the bolts . Don’t real want to be ripped off by BMW , Kind regards Gary
Thanks for watching. I have used a number of places to get the bolts. Schmeidmann, eBay and sometimes Mini. Best to get quotes, but bolts are not cheap. Depending on what you need, some are reusable
Subframe bolts I reused, but I bought a tap and die to clean the threads of any thread locker. Usually find the heads are in worse condition than the actual bolt
Hi Zubiar, if you are close enough you could, however I would suggest you could start by taking some photos of the underneath and sending them to my email. michael@hyphensclassics.com
England is a pain in the arse for cars.. I spend all my life fighting rusty and seized fasteners when working on my cars. I always weep when i see how easy mechanics have it in dry climates when they're disassembling some 25 year old car...the nuts and bolts come off like butter compared to out stuff... a total fkn nightmare.
I know right! It is why some people lock their cars away for winter! I am considering doing the same, it is just finding somewhere to put it! I have not used mine in two weeks and already the brake disks are already coated in a film of rust!
@@hyphensclassics Ive decided to run mine until the end of October and then just put a cover over it until Spring. Unfortunately I dont have a garage to work in because...reasons... My plans are to service the supercharger and clean everything up before reassembly...Replate the nuts and bolts with a DIY kit and then move onto a suspension refresh...Ive already dont the lower ball joints, drop links and tie rods..Although they looked perfect I was impressed at how much tighter the car felt.. After binge watching your vids though, my plans will also be including a front subframe drop and get gynaecological on it...This is all subject to cash flow of course...
@@simonlloyd7557 first thank you for binge watching all my vids! Yes the challenge of space and cash flow is constant, where I built mine was supposed to be torn down, but there is a short reprieve so it is back in there as the PSP has a problem, which is very annoying since I had it looked at! It will also give me time to do the next project though, more high quality sound. Still many decisions to make on that. Good luck with your servicing work, a nice long list to get through! Engine is also in my list, I am slowly changing oil seals, have not done much in the way of videoing them though as kit has been packed away for the supposed tearing down of the barn! I will have to find a way of bringing more content!
Hi Paul, most of them came from Schmeidmann, there were a couple of bolts that came from German sellers on eBay. If you want further details please email me: michael@hyphensclassics.com. I can drag out all the details of what and where.
@@hyphensclassics thanks Michael. I’m planning on refurbishing the front and rear subframe on my R53 probably replacing many of the bolts. I’ll take a look on Schmeidmann. Have a great Xmas 🎄
@@paulgore9127 sounds like a great project, you will enjoy the results! I used Schmeidmann as it was the easiest to get all the right part numbers. Note they are not cheap parts! Wishing you the best Christmas possible under the current circumstances
Thanks for the great content, I'm currently doing upgrades to my r53, I've not kept it stock but I must say I do love the blue colour with those jcw wheels you have. I have managed to push my car to about 235 hp dynod. Look forward to watching your other r53 content.
Hi Neil,
Very sorry for not seeing this message! Embarrassing! Glad you enjoyed the video and I know you have been watching the other videos.
235 hp sounds like a good figure for these cars, something for me to be considering later in the year. I want to make sure mine is 100% underneath, suspension and brakes, before pushing more power. I remember when I first got it the brakes used to fade after about 15 min of hard driving. So I went to drilled and grooved brakes. This helped a little, but it was too small of an investment and not good enough for me to consider adding more power. Once this work is over, however, we should be in a great position to do something.
Bro you are a genius! seen this video before but now
I understand why its such a Brill Mod for the R53
AND... I need to do this ASAP.. LOL :-) got rid of
the oil leaks, installed an airtec intercooler,
ramair cold induction colder plugs oil filter
thermostat and radiator fan.. now running
like it should.. but really do want a R56 subframe & suspension rebuild
and the front callipers and disc upgrade.. slowly getting there. will give
MAD4MINI in Leeds A Shout and ModAMini down south.. Both helped me out.. Bless
Glad you are getting there with your R53! I know the team at Mod-a-Mini, but not sure I know the Mad4mini team, glad you are getting there.
If I can help with the rear suspension let me know. I have a couple of spare rear subframes that can be cleaned up and powder coated and sent to you.
Only just realised your in England 🙈. I’ve started the rust in the front towers and ... a bit further. I’ll get on to the back on day 😂 I’ve already done the trailing arm change though. Blasted, sprayed look beautiful
I’m just worried about the brake lines that go through the rear subframe. I’m not brake line confident
Peter Nicholls the brake lines should not go through the subframe, the handbrake or emergency brake cables go through it. Very simple just one bolt each side that hold a bracket to the frame. Let me know if you need some guidance on that
Hyphens Classics thanks that’s very kind
@@hyphensclassics OK! I'm taking the plunge and I'm going to do it this week! I've done the handbrake cables before, and the other suspension and trailing arms parts (R56 upgrade there!) - so wish me luck!
@@MePeterNicholls You will be fine! Look forward to hearing more about it and maybe some pictures!?
Hi, I've watched your videos rebuilding the front and rear suspension and brakes with great interest. Some very impressive work. Surprised to see how you struggled removing the front lower ball joints, the 15 year old ones on my Gen.1/R52 convertible came off easily despite also being regularly exposed to salty winter roads. Removing the hand brake cables from the rear calipers was a different story altogether (I had to cut them off in the end and replace both calipers and cables). It was very interesting to note that you were able to interchange the rear trailing arms with Gen. 2 aluminium ones. I wasn't aware that was possible (it provides a useful 5 kg wright saving in total). Now to my question: I need to replace the badly rusted rear subframe/ axle carrier (2005 Gen.1/R52 convertible). The convertible subframe har additional reinforcements to support the addition chassis tension struts that help stiffen the convertible body. It is hard to come by this part (OEM # 33316761716) secondhand in reasonable condition except from the US (but very costly shipping). However, when I look closely at the online original parts catalogue (BMW Mini ETK), the similar rear subframe part (OEM @) for the Gen.2/ R57 convertible (2007-on) looks completely identical. It even weighs the exact same (8.900 kg). Since the trailing arms fit, can anyone confirm whether the R57/R52 subframes are interchangeable??? It does seem probable. Has anyone tried this? Availability of the R57 part is naturally greater. Thanks for any tips! Best regards Bjorn
Hi Bjørn,
Thank you for watching and subscribing, I am glad you have enjoyed the videos.
I will have to investigate if the convertible subframe is the same, I understand the r56 and r53 subframes are the same so it makes some sense that the convertible units are. Unfortunately I have never take a convertible apart. I will ask some people and also mention it in the next video, maybe someone can answer that with authority
@@hyphensclassics Thanks for your quick response! If the R53/R56 subframes are interchangeable it certainly seems possible that the same applies to the convertible unit. Most important here of course is the width of the unit which seem to agree given your insight. All 5 bolt holes that connect to the body underside seem to be the same. I am not sure whether the track of a Gen.2 is a bit wider, but if so, surely that would boil down to the rim ET and the length of the trailing arms. Does that seem to make sense?
Sorry, that should be "length of the control arms" not trailing arms.
@@bjrnharaldgjestvang9479 it does, but note that the r52 was made through into 2007. The aluminium rear trailing arms were first seen on the GP1, which was the R53 base. So the arms should not be an issue. The R53 and R56 wheels are also interchangeable, 4x100, however the wheel bolts are not as they changed the thread and size.
Things like the wheel bearings and wheel sensors also changed and are mostly not interchangeable.
@@bjrnharaldgjestvang9479 got you, they are the same part number between the R53 and R56
Great video, I am currently doing the same R56 trailing arms to my R53. Where did you get your new bolts from ? Thanks.
Hi Oliver, some people will reuse the bolts, if they are in good nick, that may work and if you have a way of bringing them back to life through either nickel plating or if you just paint over the top after. I bought new ones from Shmiedmann.com as I was not sure on the quality of the bolts that I would have been removing. Before purchasing I did some digging on Shmiedmann as there were some varying reports on their service, but I had no issues what-so-ever.
Best of luck with your build, are you also changing the brakes, control arms?
Unfortunatley there is not alot worth saving under my R53, thanks I will check that company out. Yes I am doing the whole lot. At the moment the only thing left on the car is the engine. Subframes are being powder coated, all new suspension (think I will go for the BC’s aswel) wanting to upgrade the brakes to R56 but not got that far yet ! I have watched your other video, good content 👍🏻 keep up the good work..
@@oliverrobinson6502 thank you Oliver, best of luck on your project, let me know if you need anything else
@@oliverrobinson6502 next video is now up. I remove the exhaust, petrol tank, brake lines and subframe
Hi there I’m watching this video as I’m planning on replacing the rear subframe with the race line subframe from Euro Car parts . I’ve got a 08 cooper D . My question to you is where did you get the replacement hardware from ie the bolts. Do you have any info I can have with getting my hands on the bolts . Don’t real want to be ripped off by BMW ,
Kind regards Gary
Thanks for watching. I have used a number of places to get the bolts. Schmeidmann, eBay and sometimes Mini. Best to get quotes, but bolts are not cheap.
Depending on what you need, some are reusable
Subframe bolts I reused, but I bought a tap and die to clean the threads of any thread locker. Usually find the heads are in worse condition than the actual bolt
Dear Sirs,
I have a mini rear suspension need attention would I able to bring my car to your place to investigage? thanks
Hi Zubiar, if you are close enough you could, however I would suggest you could start by taking some photos of the underneath and sending them to my email.
michael@hyphensclassics.com
England is a pain in the arse for cars.. I spend all my life fighting rusty and seized fasteners when working on my cars. I always weep when i see how easy mechanics have it in dry climates when they're disassembling some 25 year old car...the nuts and bolts come off like butter compared to out stuff... a total fkn nightmare.
I know right! It is why some people lock their cars away for winter! I am considering doing the same, it is just finding somewhere to put it! I have not used mine in two weeks and already the brake disks are already coated in a film of rust!
@@hyphensclassics Ive decided to run mine until the end of October and then just put a cover over it until Spring. Unfortunately I dont have a garage to work in because...reasons...
My plans are to service the supercharger and clean everything up before reassembly...Replate the nuts and bolts with a DIY kit and then move onto a suspension refresh...Ive already dont the lower ball joints, drop links and tie rods..Although they looked perfect I was impressed at how much tighter the car felt..
After binge watching your vids though, my plans will also be including a front subframe drop and get gynaecological on it...This is all subject to cash flow of course...
@@simonlloyd7557 first thank you for binge watching all my vids! Yes the challenge of space and cash flow is constant, where I built mine was supposed to be torn down, but there is a short reprieve so it is back in there as the PSP has a problem, which is very annoying since I had it looked at! It will also give me time to do the next project though, more high quality sound. Still many decisions to make on that.
Good luck with your servicing work, a nice long list to get through! Engine is also in my list, I am slowly changing oil seals, have not done much in the way of videoing them though as kit has been packed away for the supposed tearing down of the barn!
I will have to find a way of bringing more content!
Where do you get the bolt kits from?
Hi Paul, most of them came from Schmeidmann, there were a couple of bolts that came from German sellers on eBay. If you want further details please email me: michael@hyphensclassics.com. I can drag out all the details of what and where.
@@hyphensclassics thanks Michael. I’m planning on refurbishing the front and rear subframe on my R53 probably replacing many of the bolts. I’ll take a look on Schmeidmann. Have a great Xmas 🎄
@@paulgore9127 sounds like a great project, you will enjoy the results! I used Schmeidmann as it was the easiest to get all the right part numbers. Note they are not cheap parts!
Wishing you the best Christmas possible under the current circumstances