Thank you! The instructions I received skipped all of the P settings, and I thought my unit was broken (but actually set to the default C, not H what I needed.) Very easy to follow and thorough.
It was a great video .I just bought 2 of these units ,there was no paper work to show how to use them , thanks to you now I can use it in my solar project . God bless
I bought this and I didn't know that hysteresis can be adjusted. I dont want my AC to go wild turning on and off with default 2 degC. Good I found your video. Perfect!
Thanks a lot for the video. I got this for a project of mine and I'm trying to find if it's possible to program it so that the + - increments go by 1 degree instead of 0.1. Also, is there a way to program it so that it is on for a certain amount of time? Thanks again!
The W3001 controller available for $3 works quite well, this seems to have similar function except it works off 120VAC, and switches the line to the output. Button user interface is different, with a low and high threshold setting used to control turn on and turn off for both heating and cooling, with the hysteresis determined by the delta between the two settings. Very useful. The cheap version uses thin gauge wire presoldered to the unit instead of screw terminals, so I just changed them to handle higher current. It does come with a housing, so it's more complete and ready to use. Modified one to get isolated contacts to switch a logic level signal rather than 120V.
These relays are great. You can make very nice temp controller for very little money. I control my intercooler fans on my turbocharged Land Cruiser , it works very well.
@@anandjoshi8554 It depends... If you build a nuclear reactor, then you probable need something more sophisticated... I used them in many different applications like turning my intercooler fans on my Jeep. I also used them in my cooler room as thermostat. They work and work ok.
@@justlife2129 Which connector would fit to blue colour relay modules in place of jumper /dupont / berg housing connectors ?? (2.54 mm pitch ) good firm connection
You just stopped me complaining to the seller on ebay because my one was working backwards to how I wanted (was on cool, not heat). Another great video, very glad I subscribed. Thank you :)
very helpful video! I purchased several of these about four years ago but need to reset it. your video helped me, because I could not remember how to set it up.
@@anandjoshi8554 well I guess it depends on the project. If it’s Nuclear reactor or a guided missile project, or a human cryogenic freezer then no! But for anything else yes, they work great. I have six of them and they work great.
Great video. Question: I will be connecting this thermostat to a relay in my truck (12V). When the power is disconnected from the thermostat module (via relay) will the setting on the module remain at MY settings or will they default to a factory setting when relay restores the power to themastat module? Thank you.
I take this time to thank the woman who gave birth to such a son. Man you are a blessing. All your videos are impressive and very informative please keep up the good work. Message frm South Africa.
I have only one question that no seller can answer, but if the 12 volt DC power is lost, then you loose your settings and have to start again. I am guessing this because they list “Static Current” of less-than 35mA. I looked to see if someone ask the question and watched the entire video as well. As a retired automotive ASE Master Tech since 1978, at 62, I still like to learn, but truthfully want to use it for a fan over my transmission cooler. I enjoy your explanation & the equipment you use and describe your findings. If this was a hobby, I would not own a Fluke 87 V digital multi meter. I tell people asking wiring issues on vehicles to use dielectric grease where exposed to water/moisture but also good grounds and these “Star” washer to dig into the metal. Most forget the ground side on a vehicles chassis and using voltage drop as a diagnostic tool. Thanks again for your clear videos. I am saving this one for myself!
Hi Dean, The settings are saved when power is disconnected. Your assumption is correct on the amount of current. thank you for sharing your thoughts. stay safe.
@@robojax Thank you so very, very much! The “Static Current” they refer to must be the amount of current this device consumes when on, digital display shining, just no “On-Off” activity. I intend to use an external relay to operate my fan. This makes the current requirements on the boards relay very low, actually making its relay last longer, because it operating the coil of an 80 ohm relay. Most eBay or amazon seller do not have the product nor ship it. The payment is sent with my address and is sent form another location. I saw this device will hunting for info on it. You did a wonderful job showing both different voltage and current levels. Even noise on the out put was a bonus, important to some, but will not affect my use. Oh many blessings on your effort as video are work too. It looks like tape would hold down the NTC thermistor when the heat gun is blowing it around. I had plans to place it in the back of my custom console. It would not be fun to re-set it once power is shut off. Once again, thank you so much!!!!
I bought the thing online and it came with no instruction at all. Hardly any info can be found online as well. But thanks to your video, the thing is all properly set now. Thanks for the detailed instruction.
Well done! Just a safety comment if I may. If you connect a test load as shown in the video be aware that 120 - 240 volts will be exposed on the back side of the circuit board. Use caution, or perhaps test with an LED and a 1K resistor in series with the relay contacts.
Thank you for the great video and feedback on the comments. I purchased this controller but didn't use it because I was confused how will it know if the setup is to heat or cool. Things are very clear now.
Hello, is it possible to connect a heater(polyamide, for instance) and heat something throughout a certain period of time, with a fixed temperature and then it goes off when the time limit is reached?
if you want higher temperature and custom display with proper functionality, then you build your own. I have shown it here ruclips.net/video/cD5oOu4N_AE/видео.html
Very good explaining video... One question, can I run a 12v input into the power feed (Positive and negative) then a 12v power source into k0 and 12v appliance into k1?
What is your opinion about connecting a reverse diode across the Relay terminals, to protect the contacts from potential Back EMF ?? I am switching a 12Volt 1.5A DC Fan, so a 1A rectifier should do the trick. Thank you for an awesome explanation. It was a life saver, since product ships with absolutely nothing in the way of instruction from Amazon.
Thank you soooo much for your video and help! I got mine working because of you and all the incredible information you have given. Thank you soo much again. You deserve a lot more credit and recognition for your work. Happy new year. Keep up the great work
Hi, thank you for the detailed video. I have been using this module to control a greenhouse misting system to cool down if it reaches a certain temperature. It’s been working well up until I needed to disconnect the power supply and after reconnecting the temperature reading continues to rise up to 110c despite no significant increase in room temperature. It does this even without the temperature sensor connected. I have also tried resetting the unit with no change to result. I purchased a second unit and have had it connected for 3 weeks before it started doing the same thing. Have you experienced this and might you be able to offer some direction to fix? Thank you.
Thank you for your recent reply. What is the useful function of the Upper Limit; Lower Limit, and Correction settings ???? These are not explained well anywhere I can find. Looking to set my Greenhouse 'ON' Trigger for the FAN at 29C, in COLD MODE; I discovered setting the module to 27 C, with the Backlash at its default 2C = 29C. That has the FAN turn back off at 27 C; which works for me. (Alternatively, if I set Backlash at 1C, the fan switched on at 28C, and off at 27C). Upper and Lower Limits seem to be the total range in which the module will do anything; and their use escapes me. For example, I initially tried using the Upper Limit for trigger temperature, and nothing worked. It seemed to lock out the module. The use for the 'Correction' mode is also not obvious . .... Correction from what ?? Is there a manual or some other more complete document out there on the operation / use cases for this module ?
You are welcome. See my videos on other better sensors ruclips.net/user/robojaxTVsearch?query=temperature Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching them. This will help me a lot.
You are welcome. The best thank you for me is to not skipping ads and Subscribing 🔔 to my channel, and liking 👍 the video. It is greatly appreciated. 🔔 😊. I will reply to all Subscriber's 🔔 questions. So make sure to Subscribe.😊 .
Hi, Im just learning about this existing while taking abt a semester worth of time to do exactly what this does with arduino, so that sucks. I just want to ask, if I supply like 5V to the module, will the device work? I just want to use it for the temperature display and not the relay, so do I have to supply all 12V?
hii ,, Thanks for the full informative video .... I want to ask if this one could be used for 220V devices ?? as I just got it 125V as I didn't know that before getting it .... Thanks
This guy Robofax has obviously no clue. Sure you can use it on the switching side to switch 220V. I would'nt use this divice to switch anything, because after x times switching the realay will burn up. You need to desolder the relay and add the appropiate solid state relay for your purpose. T
@@Lisas4us can it be used to switching 12 v dc to ac ssr , safely ? Are this reliable enough to be used in a project ? or one should buy expensive controller?
How will i do? When i try to do setting in my new XH-W1209, in the P3 it goes upto only 14 (the range is between only 14 to -30). I am confuse as you mention it as 50 to -50.
Need some advice, I want to use one of these with 2x12v DC fans. Can I splice into the 12v DC power lead supplied for the fans to also power the controller?
hello robojax....i am doing a DIY hot air station blower....the blower handle has a thermocouple....what circuit board is the best to control the temperature of the hot air blower? thanks.
I have not see such thing. But you can buy very cheap boost converter where you can input 5V and it will boost it to 12v. I have video in that . Search my channel
@@robojax Thanks. I later saw that the solid state relay would work with an input trigger voltage anywhere between 3V to 30V to switch on high (resistive heater) loads, so no worries.
Having an issue where my incubator shuts off at the proper temp but the heaters stay hot for a min longer, raising the reading to 2-3 °C above the desired temp. Is there any way to correct this besides decreasing the heater size (using 1 instead of two) or a larger incubator cabinet?
hello, may be this ruclips.net/video/dVh77wT-4Ao/видео.html or search my channel Here is how to find Specific RUclips Video in a channel bit.ly/findRUclipsVideo
Ty sir robojax... very informative.. very easy to install. Ordered another batch of this device for my incubator projects.. this is very useful for us beginners.. more power sir robojax...
Hi nice hardware , i was thinking if insted of lamp i run a pump cycaling water into a radiator ( not neccary just for the example ) to cool down viaclhle motor . and the sensor positaion inside the radiator . if the tempuraute goes high , above setpoint . the relay close and the pump circate. and i zm curios if there is option to aplly PID . so the pump motor doesnt turn off imadatlly , but slow down when the mesurment is 2% close to the setpoint . sorry for my spelling mistakes . thanks Netael
Hi, this is very simple timer. if you want to have full control, then use Arduino shown here ruclips.net/video/yJYXfaU9J34/видео.html if you don't know about Arduino, here is my course worth $200 on Udemy is available for free on RUclips here bit.ly/arduinoStepByStep
Can I connect this to a 12 volt battery 1.4AH? I intend to connect a small fan and small buzzer on a compact surface. I know it has a 20amp relay so im not sure if this requires more power to activate the fan.
A great way to test the controller is to tape the sensor to an incandescent lightbulb. These lightbulbs get hot when turned on and cool down fast when they are turned off. In the HEAT mode the controller will turn the bulb on and off causing a cool flashing. Don't do this with an LED bulb as they don't get hot enough.
I bought one of these controllers great little bit of kit but there is a fault in the software when using it to cool a PC with a fan. When you set the temp you want the fan to kick in at you have to deduct the differential you have set from the temp you require i.e. if you want a fan to kick in at 30c with a 2 degree backlash (differential) you have to set it at 28c to achieve this. This way the fan kicks in at 30c and cuts out when it gets down to 28c . It works fine in the heating mode though
Yes you can. Here is how you can calculate the load. Your bulbs are your load. Just add the power of all six bulbs and treat them as ONE load snag.gy/UDJMCg.jpg
I followed the settings as such (for incubator) However, the thermostat isn't switching off when the temperature goes over 37.7 C (Yes I have set P0 and P1 correctly) Can you explain what I'm doing wrong
hi thanks for the explanation i just have a suggestion if you can do it " is it possible to make the module without the temperature probe standard so that we can use the same module with an other sensor like light sensor LDR ; pressure sensor or any other sensor instead of the te,perature probe"
You are welcome. here are my other videos on Temperature and humidity sensor ruclips.net/user/robojaxTVsearch?query=thermostat Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching them. This will help me a lot.
Very thanks for this great video, actually I'm looking for a compact module like this to control temperature between something around room temperature to around 300c using thermonuclear type k or whatever that can handle that temperature. I'll be grateful if you have any answer to this. Thanks again
you are welcome. you may use Arduino to measure and monitor temperature from this video ruclips.net/video/VGqONmUinqA/видео.html and if you want to have display, then watch this video ruclips.net/video/BlhpktgPdKs/видео.html or see all videos ruclips.net/user/results?search_query=%23robojax_MAX6675
Hi can you jump 12v to k1 and put the positive of the device needing to be powered (say a 12v water pump) to k0 and the negative of the pump to the gnd supply of the module?
Thank you for a clear and useful tutorial. I am using this controller in heating mode and have experienced a strange problem. When there is no load connected to the relay, the temperature sensor gives a steady reading as expected. However when I connect a 12V DC load to the relay the temperature sensor reading fluctuates up and down every half second, upto 2° up and down randomly. Is this a circuit defect or am I doing something wrong? Thanks for your help.
@@robojax - I inserted a suitable capacitor across the supply but it made no difference. I found that for some reason the load current was too high and the voltage too low and both were fluctuating. I replaced the power supply for the load with a current limited 12V 2 amp unit. This solved the problem. Thanks for your help. Cheers....
wow clear explanation.. thank you..😊 i have a doubt..please tell how to connect the peltier module and pc's PSU to this device..? i have red and black wires in my peltier module.. how to connect these devices to this thermostat..? Im not good at electronics.. please reply..☺️ ( i would like to use this method for my cpu cooler)
your module has RED and BLACK. You need an extra wire (let's call it yellow). This module has 2 terminal (let's call them T1 and T2 ) connect red to + (positive) of power supply, connect black to T1 . Connect one side of yellow to T2 and the other side of yellow wire to - (negative) of power supply and it should work.
When you splice and the wire in half and . And put the fan on. the other end do you have the plug do you plug in the wall outlet and have the electric run through it as it's hooked up to the battery to.
I am not sure you can find such thing. But you can jaw Arduino that can go up 1300C here is the basic ruclips.net/video/dVh77wT-4Ao/видео.html or with led display ruclips.net/video/cD5oOu4N_AE/видео.html or with lcd ruclips.net/video/BlhpktgPdKs/видео.html
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have noticed that the thermostat in the incubator I bought is constant at 37.7 C but this thermostat runs up and down. What settings will make it remain at 37.7?
There's no such thing as a constant temperature with something like this. You can get higher or lower amounts of up and down, but the relay is switching ON and OFF. Each time it switches it has to go above a certain point to turn off then below a certain point to turn back in again. There's very little you can do about this besides maybe making your chamber better insulated so there's less heat loss and more consistency. Even solid state devices that vary the power to the heater (not just ON/OFF like this one) will vary slightly, even if only a fraction of a degree.
@@lazyh-online4839 Thanks a lot. I totally agree now that I made a second incubator with thicker styrofoam and the fluctuation is not that much. Of course I'm still mystified because the insulation on my small plastic body factory made incubator doesn't look that great but the temperature fluctuations is almost not noticeable.😏
@@tomokoth4841 another thing to reduce fluctuations is to use a lower power heating element. It won't heat as fast but it also won't overshoot as much.
I have often had a problem when I want to power this from a 12v regulated power supply... the temperature jumps up and down several degrees every second, and if the temperature is close to the the set point, the relay will randomly click on and off and on and off because of these fluctuations in the temperature reading. I tried using an additional 12v linear voltage regulator together with lots of different sized capacitors, and even tried lowering the voltage by passing it through a couple of diodes. Nothing really helped. My voltmeter was reading a constant 12.2 volts, so I don't think the voltage was actually fluctuating any appreciable amount, but whatever tiny bit of leftover ripple was left in the incoming supply was continuing to cause these fluctations in the temperature reading, and the unstable relay response would not stop. Initially the only thing that fixed the fluctuations was to run the thermostat from a completely separate 12v battery instead. (Not practicle for permanent installation of anything.) But then I tried something else that totally fixed all the fluctuations without having to run it on a battery: I put a small value capacitor across the leads for the thermistor. Works like a dream! No more random fluctations in the readings, and no more random clicking on and off of the relay! Perfectly smooth operation now. I used a 4.7 uf capacitor rated for 25 volts, but any small capacitor will usually work, as long as it is rated for 12v or more. So if you are having issues with a jumpy temperature readout, cut the thermistor wires somewhere convenient, and splice in a very small capacitor. Or if you would rather put the capacitor directly on the board, there are two nice solder points right next to the sensor connector you can use. The top side is positive, and the bottom side is negative. I tried a .1 uf capacitor and it worked just as well, but I went with the 4.7 uf because I might need the other one for something else. So the value of the cap is not hypercritical.
Bro it would be amazing if you can somehow share a picture or make a video of it. There are tons of people that want to get rid of this issue and your idea is brilliant!
Ok, thank you. Any suggestion what thermostat would be good to use with a "12V" LiFePO4 battery(max 4x3.6V)? Would need a thermostat to control heating pads in freezing temperature.
Hi, is it necessary to use jumper cable wire connected k1 and 12v?? If so, what kind of cable is needed? Can i directly plug in cables from 12v adaptor?
for 12V yes it is okay. You can connect it as long as you know the polarity.. But for "jumper cable wire connected k1" sorry I did not understand it. What do you mean?
Yes you can as long as you are able to put the sensor inside liquid to get the temperature properly. Or attach the sensor to radiator with thermal compound so it get proper head sensing.
Would this work with a 12V dc supply having two of these modules in series? One to switch a fan on at a certain temperature, and the other to switch off when a certain temperature is reached
turning on and off about the load and not about the power supply. so you can connect both to the 12V. and then you can connect them as AND or OR configuration to do something. to first device is A and second is B see this page www.ee.surrey.ac.uk/Projects/Labview/gatesfunc/
One of the very few videos where somebody actually explains this things so clearly. I'll definitely give you a like.
Good to hear that. Thank you.
Dane with my part hope to see you araund
does not work. 3 does not go above 14
Thank you! The instructions I received skipped all of the P settings, and I thought my unit was broken (but actually set to the default C, not H what I needed.) Very easy to follow and thorough.
You are welcome. Cheers. Ahmad from Canada.
It was a great video .I just bought 2 of these units ,there was no paper work to show how to use them , thanks to you now I can use it in my solar project . God bless
Glad I could help
I bought this and I didn't know that hysteresis can be adjusted. I dont want my AC to go wild turning on and off with default 2 degC. Good I found your video. Perfect!
Glad I could help
Thanks a lot for the video. I got this for a project of mine and I'm trying to find if it's possible to program it so that the + - increments go by 1 degree instead of 0.1. Also, is there a way to program it so that it is on for a certain amount of time? Thanks again!
The W3001 controller available for $3 works quite well, this seems to have similar function except it works off 120VAC, and switches the line to the output. Button user interface is different, with a low and high threshold setting used to control turn on and turn off for both heating and cooling, with the hysteresis determined by the delta between the two settings.
Very useful. The cheap version uses thin gauge wire presoldered to the unit instead of screw terminals, so I just changed them to handle higher current. It does come with a housing, so it's more complete and ready to use.
Modified one to get isolated contacts to switch a logic level signal rather than 120V.
These relays are great. You can make very nice temp controller for very little money. I control my intercooler fans on my turbocharged Land Cruiser , it works very well.
Are this reliable enough to be used in a project ? or one should buy expensive controller?
@@anandjoshi8554 It depends... If you build a nuclear reactor, then you probable need something more sophisticated... I used them in many different applications like turning my intercooler fans on my Jeep. I also used them in my cooler room as thermostat. They work and work ok.
@@justlife2129 thanks
@@justlife2129 Which connector would fit to blue colour relay modules in place of jumper /dupont / berg housing connectors ?? (2.54 mm pitch ) good firm connection
Thank you for such a great video! I didn't realize this thing had so many features.
Wow, these purpose built electronic devices are getting so cool!
You just stopped me complaining to the seller on ebay because my one was working backwards to how I wanted (was on cool, not heat). Another great video, very glad I subscribed. Thank you :)
You are welcome. I am glad it helped you.
Is this sensor water approved? I need to use it for measuring the water temperature
yes. it is made for liquid.
very well presented, crystal clear explanation. Thank you Ahmad
Thanks for a good explanation of the controller, that does not come with any instruction sheet. I appreciate your help.
You're welcome!. I am glad you found it useful.
Best tutorial among the rest..very thorough and well explained..robojax two thumbs up 👍👍🙏
Glad you liked it!
very helpful video! I purchased several of these about four years ago but need to reset it. your video helped me, because I could not remember how to set it up.
Are this reliable enough to be used in a project ? or one should buy expensive controller?
@@anandjoshi8554 well I guess it depends on the project. If it’s Nuclear reactor or a guided missile project, or a human cryogenic freezer then no! But for anything else yes, they work great. I have six of them and they work great.
@@RC-Flight 😇🤔🤔🤭🙄😷🧐 🤐 thanks 🙂
Great video. Question: I will be connecting this thermostat to a relay in my truck (12V). When the power is disconnected from the thermostat module (via relay) will the setting on the module remain at MY settings or will they default to a factory setting when relay restores the power to themastat module? Thank you.
I retains all data. Nothing will be lost.
I take this time to thank the woman who gave birth to such a son. Man you are a blessing. All your videos are impressive and very informative please keep up the good work. Message frm South Africa.
that is very kind of you. I will convey your thank you to my mom. I am glad you found my tutorial useful. Greeting from Canada.
I have only one question that no seller can answer, but if the 12 volt DC power is lost, then you loose your settings and have to start again. I am guessing this because they list “Static Current” of less-than 35mA.
I looked to see if someone ask the question and watched the entire video as well. As a retired automotive ASE Master Tech since 1978, at 62, I still like to learn, but truthfully want to use it for a fan over my transmission cooler. I enjoy your explanation & the equipment you use and describe your findings. If this was a hobby, I would not own a Fluke 87 V digital multi meter. I tell people asking wiring issues on vehicles to use dielectric grease where exposed to water/moisture but also good grounds and these “Star” washer to dig into the metal. Most forget the ground side on a vehicles chassis and using voltage drop as a diagnostic tool. Thanks again for your clear videos. I am saving this one for myself!
Hi Dean, The settings are saved when power is disconnected. Your assumption is correct on the amount of current. thank you for sharing your thoughts. stay safe.
@@robojax Thank you so very, very much! The “Static Current” they refer to must be the amount of current this device consumes when on, digital display shining, just no “On-Off” activity.
I intend to use an external relay to operate my fan. This makes the current requirements on the boards relay very low, actually making its relay last longer, because it operating the coil of an 80 ohm relay.
Most eBay or amazon seller do not have the product nor ship it. The payment is sent with my address and is sent form another location.
I saw this device will hunting for info on it. You did a wonderful job showing both different voltage and current levels. Even noise on the out put was a bonus, important to some, but will not affect my use. Oh many blessings on your effort as video are work too. It looks like tape would hold down the NTC thermistor when the heat gun is blowing it around.
I had plans to place it in the back of my custom console. It would not be fun to re-set it once power is shut off.
Once again, thank you so much!!!!
That was a perfect demo of the sensor, thank you.
Thank you so much as a beginner it is hard to find a foolproof tutorial your's sir is one of the best👍👍
I bought the thing online and it came with no instruction at all. Hardly any info can be found online as well. But thanks to your video, the thing is all properly set now. Thanks for the detailed instruction.
Glad I could help
Well done! Just a safety comment if I may. If you connect a test load as shown in the video be aware that 120 - 240 volts will be exposed on the back side of the circuit board. Use caution, or perhaps test with an LED and a 1K resistor in series with the relay contacts.
Thanks. You may watch the latest version of this thermostat and new video ruclips.net/video/kZlTMNqXzo4/видео.html
What?
Purchased one for my DIY Peltier Chiller. Both the Peltiers and the Temp Control run on the 12V. Worked out just fine.
Good to hear that.
great tutorial. Please can i use this device to control Air Conditioner compressor and condenser fan as my PCB relay is bad.
do I need to fuse this it will be controlling a small fan fir cooling, thanks your awesome
Thank you for the great video and feedback on the comments. I purchased this controller but didn't use it because I was confused how will it know if the setup is to heat or cool. Things are very clear now.
Hello, is it possible to connect a heater(polyamide, for instance) and heat something throughout a certain period of time, with a fixed temperature and then it goes off when the time limit is reached?
Thanks for the demo. I have one of these boards but lost the documentation years ago. Much appreciated!
Nice clear video and a good explanation. Thank you for including the programming chart!
You are welcome.
Is this quite accurate when double checked with a thermometer? Thanks
it should be. This is used widely but I have not checked it against another sensor.
@@robojax thanks, I'll buy one and will have a test of my own...
Finally a video i can decipher!!!! Thank you so much!
You are welcome. Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching it. This will help me a lot.
What an excellent and thorough video! Thank you so much!
Thank you very much for very helpful explanation. can I use 110V as well ?
you are welcome. this is operates with 12V DC.
You are talking about using of the relay? It seems that you can. If it's 10 amps with 220V then it should take 20 amps on 110V AC.
very nicely explained, btw can i alter the control range to 0-500 deg C by changing the sensor or this unit is calibrated for 10K NTC sensor only.
if you want higher temperature and custom display with proper functionality, then you build your own. I have shown it here ruclips.net/video/cD5oOu4N_AE/видео.html
Very good explaining video... One question, can I run a 12v input into the power feed (Positive and negative) then a 12v power source into k0 and 12v appliance into k1?
Yes you can power this module with 12v and your load can be also 12v
What is your opinion about connecting a reverse diode across the Relay terminals, to protect the contacts from potential Back EMF ??
I am switching a 12Volt 1.5A DC Fan, so a 1A rectifier should do the trick.
Thank you for an awesome explanation.
It was a life saver, since product ships with absolutely nothing in the way of instruction from Amazon.
It has already the needed diode
@@robojax Thank you ..... I guess my extra one can't hurt :) ...
What are your default setting temperature
Wow, perfect instructions for this circuit, thanks!
You're welcome!
Thank you soooo much for your video and help! I got mine working because of you and all the incredible information you have given. Thank you soo much again. You deserve a lot more credit and recognition for your work. Happy new year. Keep up the great work
You are so welcome! Happy New Year. Greetings from Canada. Ahmad
Hi, thank you for the detailed video. I have been using this module to control a greenhouse misting system to cool down if it reaches a certain temperature.
It’s been working well up until I needed to disconnect the power supply and after reconnecting the temperature reading continues to rise up to 110c despite no significant increase in room temperature. It does this even without the temperature sensor connected. I have also tried resetting the unit with no change to result. I purchased a second unit and have had it connected for 3 weeks before it started doing the same thing.
Have you experienced this and might you be able to offer some direction to fix? Thank you.
Hi, if turning the power OFF and ON again does not help, check the wiring or crack on PCB, if you everything is okay, then it is damaged.
I use this relais for a cooling fan (switch on/off) in the housing from my FMD Printer. It works great.
Very well presented! thanks so much for doing this. Much appreciated!
Thank you for your recent reply.
What is the useful function of the Upper Limit; Lower Limit, and Correction settings ????
These are not explained well anywhere I can find.
Looking to set my Greenhouse 'ON' Trigger for the FAN at 29C, in COLD MODE; I discovered setting the module to 27 C, with the Backlash at its default 2C = 29C.
That has the FAN turn back off at 27 C; which works for me.
(Alternatively, if I set Backlash at 1C, the fan switched on at 28C, and off at 27C).
Upper and Lower Limits seem to be the total range in which the module will do anything; and their use escapes me.
For example, I initially tried using the Upper Limit for trigger temperature, and nothing worked. It seemed to lock out the module.
The use for the 'Correction' mode is also not obvious . .... Correction from what ??
Is there a manual or some other more complete document out there on the operation / use cases for this module ?
Later I explained it in other videos one of them is here ruclips.net/video/aY4YbSlJ8tk/видео.html where you will see start and stop temperature values
Really clear and helpful explanation. Thank you!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you so much for the explanation for this devise! It came with no information.
You are welcome. See my videos on other better sensors ruclips.net/user/robojaxTVsearch?query=temperature
Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching them. This will help me a lot.
I bought one of these to make a chiller for my aquarium. My unit didn't come with any instructions. Your video was really helpful...
Thank you for your thorough explanation!!!
You are welcome. The best thank you for me is to not skipping ads and Subscribing 🔔 to my channel, and liking 👍 the video. It is greatly appreciated. 🔔 😊.
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Thank you for this video. Made my project so much easier.
Glad it helped!
This guy is a legend
Hi, Im just learning about this existing while taking abt a semester worth of time to do exactly what this does with arduino, so that sucks. I just want to ask, if I supply like 5V to the module, will the device work? I just want to use it for the temperature display and not the relay, so do I have to supply all 12V?
It works with 12V only.
For an incubator can í only use upper and lower limits or do i have to fill in all p1 to p6 spaces?
Hi, Can you tell me how many meters can be the cable between the board and the ntc sensor? Can it be 20 meters long?
hii ,, Thanks for the full informative video .... I want to ask if this one could be used for 220V devices ?? as I just got it 125V as I didn't know that before getting it .... Thanks
You are welcome.
This guy Robofax has obviously no clue. Sure you can use it on the switching side to switch 220V. I would'nt use this divice to switch anything, because after x times switching the realay will burn up. You need to desolder the relay and add the appropiate solid state relay for your purpose. T
@@Lisas4us or just a properly rated mechanical relay. Agreed don't use this with 220.
@@Lisas4us can it be used to switching 12 v dc to ac ssr , safely ?
Are this reliable enough to be used in a project ? or one should buy expensive controller?
How will i do? When i try to do setting in my new XH-W1209, in the P3 it goes upto only 14 (the range is between only 14 to -30). I am confuse as you mention it as 50 to -50.
something is wrong. my be this is either different or it has been programmed from the manufacturere incorrectly.
Hi, how can i get one....I think it's a good gargent...pliz let me know.
Hi, the links are in the description of the video under the video.
Need some advice, I want to use one of these with 2x12v DC fans. Can I splice into the 12v DC power lead supplied for the fans to also power the controller?
Hi, yes you can. it is called parallel. like at home you have fridge and TV connected in parallel.
excellent, helped me out bigtime...subbed..thank you
Thanks for the sub!
hello robojax....i am doing a DIY hot air station blower....the blower handle has a thermocouple....what circuit board is the best to control the temperature of the hot air blower? thanks.
Hello, because of heat you need k-type sensor. But that needs Arduno. See them here ruclips.net/channel/UCkcBSig_Iu4ZnAIeCeG1TVgsearch?query=k+type
Can I use this gadget for regulating temperatures in poultry brooder ?
it is up to you to regulate whatever you want. sure. you can.
One more question Sir.
Your example was for ac current, for dc current on the relay should I bridge KO to K1 or K1 to positive or does it matter.
this is just a switch which turn ON or OFF. you can DC or AC load. it doesn't need any other change.
Thanks. Very clear explanation of programming the device. Is there a similar module that works with 5V?
I have not see such thing. But you can buy very cheap boost converter where you can input 5V and it will boost it to 12v. I have video in that . Search my channel
@@robojax Thanks. I later saw that the solid state relay would work with an input trigger voltage anywhere between 3V to 30V to switch on high (resistive heater) loads, so no worries.
Having an issue where my incubator shuts off at the proper temp but the heaters stay hot for a min longer, raising the reading to 2-3 °C above the desired temp. Is there any way to correct this besides decreasing the heater size (using 1 instead of two) or a larger incubator cabinet?
Thanks, great tutorial. does the device setting hold if power is interrupted
you are welcome. yes it does.
Can you make a video for how to connect this device to an electrical fan using 4 pin reley ?
Hello sir
Can I make remote control operations using this by adding any additional device
hello, may be this ruclips.net/video/dVh77wT-4Ao/видео.html or search my channel Here is how to find Specific RUclips Video in a channel bit.ly/findRUclipsVideo
Sir can i connect 3 ,12 vot cpu fan in parellel to this temperature controler
Very well explained, thanks 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Ty sir robojax... very informative.. very easy to install. Ordered another batch of this device for my incubator projects.. this is very useful for us beginners.. more power sir robojax...
You are welcome. Sir.
Very good video; helped me out a lot. Thank you!
Very well explained! Thanks bud!
You are welcome.
Thanks, your video helped med, I miss how to set one thing to get my setup to work you showed me
Hi nice hardware , i was thinking if insted of lamp i run a pump cycaling water into a radiator ( not neccary just for the example ) to cool down viaclhle motor .
and the sensor positaion inside the radiator . if the tempuraute goes high , above setpoint . the relay close and the pump circate. and i zm curios if there is option to aplly PID . so the pump motor doesnt turn off imadatlly , but slow down when the mesurment is 2% close to the setpoint .
sorry for my spelling mistakes .
thanks Netael
Hi, this is very simple timer. if you want to have full control, then use Arduino shown here ruclips.net/video/yJYXfaU9J34/видео.html if you don't know about Arduino, here is my course worth $200 on Udemy is available for free on RUclips here bit.ly/arduinoStepByStep
Great Video. Had a question can this measure anything over 150 F or its limited to 110 not clearly understanding that
Good luck with your project. Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching them. This will help me a lot.
No 110 degree Celsius
Can I connect this to a 12 volt battery 1.4AH? I intend to connect a small fan and small buzzer on a compact surface.
I know it has a 20amp relay so im not sure if this requires more power to activate the fan.
the voltage is the only important value. 12V is fine. you can connect 0.2A to 1000A will work.
@@robojax thank you! I intend to try the 20amp 😁
A great way to test the controller is to tape the sensor to an incandescent lightbulb. These lightbulbs get hot when turned on and cool down fast when they are turned off. In the HEAT mode the controller will turn the bulb on and off causing a cool flashing. Don't do this with an LED bulb as they don't get hot enough.
Are this reliable enough to be used in a project ? or one should buy expensive controller?
I bought one of these controllers great little bit of kit but there is a fault in the software when using it to cool a PC with a fan. When you set the temp you want the fan to kick in at you have to deduct the differential you have set from the temp you require i.e. if you want a fan to kick in at 30c with a 2 degree backlash (differential) you have to set it at 28c to achieve this. This way the fan kicks in at 30c and cuts out when it gets down to 28c . It works fine in the heating mode though
Sir, you have really made it easy and even easier but sir can one adapt six bulbs to the W1209 thermostat at a time?
Yes you can. Here is how you can calculate the load. Your bulbs are your load. Just add the power of all six bulbs and treat them as ONE load snag.gy/UDJMCg.jpg
I followed the settings as such (for incubator)
However, the thermostat isn't switching off when the temperature goes over 37.7 C (Yes I have set P0 and P1 correctly)
Can you explain what I'm doing wrong
Sorry. If you followed the he instruction correctly then your module is defective or check the wiring.
hi thanks for the explanation i just have a suggestion if you can do it " is it possible to make the module without the temperature probe standard so that we can use the same module with an other sensor like light sensor LDR ; pressure sensor or any other sensor instead of the te,perature probe"
You are welcome. here are my other videos on Temperature and humidity sensor ruclips.net/user/robojaxTVsearch?query=thermostat Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching them. This will help me a lot.
Very nice explanation
Very thanks for this great video, actually I'm looking for a compact module like this to control temperature between something around room temperature to around 300c using thermonuclear type k or whatever that can handle that temperature. I'll be grateful if you have any answer to this.
Thanks again
you are welcome. you may use Arduino to measure and monitor temperature from this video ruclips.net/video/VGqONmUinqA/видео.html and if you want to have display, then watch this video ruclips.net/video/BlhpktgPdKs/видео.html or see all videos ruclips.net/user/results?search_query=%23robojax_MAX6675
@@robojax it's about cost and space, I want to put it in the oven
I've not see modules with protected sensor such as k-type. so Arduino is your option for now.
Hi can you jump 12v to k1 and put the positive of the device needing to be powered (say a 12v water pump) to k0 and the negative of the pump to the gnd supply of the module?
Yes, that's what I've done.
Thank you for a clear and useful tutorial. I am using this controller in heating mode and have experienced a strange problem. When there is no load connected to the relay, the temperature sensor gives a steady reading as expected. However when I connect a 12V DC load to the relay the temperature sensor reading fluctuates up and down every half second, upto 2° up and down randomly. Is this a circuit defect or am I doing something wrong? Thanks for your help.
Your load is disturbing the power. Add 16V 1000uF or higher - and + and it should be fixed
@@robojax - thanks. Please clarify where the capacitor should be inserted - across the 12V and Ground, or across the relay contacts. Thank you.
Yes at power supply
@@robojax - I inserted a suitable capacitor across the supply but it made no difference. I found that for some reason the load current was too high and the voltage too low and both were fluctuating. I replaced the power supply for the load with a current limited 12V 2 amp unit. This solved the problem. Thanks for your help. Cheers....
Excellent video which makes setting the device up easy. Thanks.
You are welcome. I am glad you found it useful.
hello!
If we disconnect the 12v power does it lose the settings we have ?
No. It will keep the settings.
@@robojax thank you!
You are welcome.
Sir can we use Ac fan or dc fan by changing circuit connection
it can control CD or DC no problem. It need 12V DC to operate. snag.gy/UDJMCg.jpg
Hi mate... Will this work for 25 watt bulb for egg incubator? and AC 220 volt wall outlet?
sure it will. The relay can handle over 1000W.
wow clear explanation.. thank you..😊 i have a doubt..please tell how to connect the peltier module and pc's PSU to this device..? i have red and black wires in my peltier module.. how to connect these devices to this thermostat..? Im not good at electronics.. please reply..☺️ ( i would like to use this method for my cpu cooler)
your module has RED and BLACK. You need an extra wire (let's call it yellow). This module has 2 terminal (let's call them T1 and T2 ) connect red to + (positive) of power supply, connect black to T1 . Connect one side of yellow to T2 and the other side of yellow wire to - (negative) of power supply and it should work.
Thanks for the reply.. :) In here, does the T1 and T2 represents the K0 and K1..??
I don't have the module in hand, but I remember there was 2 terminals that I connected the load, so those two terminals are referred to as T1 and T2
Can you extend sensor wire so if I want to put outside my room and will this change accuracy?
Test it with short and long sensors wire in the exact environment and you will know.
Awesome video, like complete reference 👍
Thanks for the visit
Does this have a remote.? Or is there any other model available with remote.?
I have shown everthing this has. just push buttons on it.
When you splice and the wire in half and . And put the fan on. the other end do you have the plug do you plug in the wall outlet and have the electric run through it as it's hooked up to the battery to.
yes. Exactly. So if you have AC load, connect it to wall outlet. If you have DC load, then connect it to battery.
Can I find such a controller for high temperatures like 0-1000 degrees Celsius?
Thx
I am not sure you can find such thing. But you can jaw Arduino that can go up 1300C here is the basic ruclips.net/video/dVh77wT-4Ao/видео.html or with led display ruclips.net/video/cD5oOu4N_AE/видео.html or with lcd ruclips.net/video/BlhpktgPdKs/видео.html
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have noticed that the thermostat in the incubator I bought is constant at 37.7 C but this thermostat runs up and down. What settings will make it remain at 37.7?
Hi, you are welcome. Test it with other temperatures. may be your temperature is fluctuating.
There's no such thing as a constant temperature with something like this. You can get higher or lower amounts of up and down, but the relay is switching ON and OFF. Each time it switches it has to go above a certain point to turn off then below a certain point to turn back in again. There's very little you can do about this besides maybe making your chamber better insulated so there's less heat loss and more consistency. Even solid state devices that vary the power to the heater (not just ON/OFF like this one) will vary slightly, even if only a fraction of a degree.
@@lazyh-online4839 Thanks a lot. I totally agree now that I made a second incubator with thicker styrofoam and the fluctuation is not that much. Of course I'm still mystified because the insulation on my small plastic body factory made incubator doesn't look that great but the temperature fluctuations is almost not noticeable.😏
@@tomokoth4841 another thing to reduce fluctuations is to use a lower power heating element. It won't heat as fast but it also won't overshoot as much.
@@lazyh-online4839 Like you adviced ,I made the second incubator with thicker walls and the temperature is holding well.
I have often had a problem when I want to power this from a 12v regulated power supply... the temperature jumps up and down several degrees every second, and if the temperature is close to the the set point, the relay will randomly click on and off and on and off because of these fluctuations in the temperature reading. I tried using an additional 12v linear voltage regulator together with lots of different sized capacitors, and even tried lowering the voltage by passing it through a couple of diodes. Nothing really helped. My voltmeter was reading a constant 12.2 volts, so I don't think the voltage was actually fluctuating any appreciable amount, but whatever tiny bit of leftover ripple was left in the incoming supply was continuing to cause these fluctations in the temperature reading, and the unstable relay response would not stop. Initially the only thing that fixed the fluctuations was to run the thermostat from a completely separate 12v battery instead. (Not practicle for permanent installation of anything.) But then I tried something else that totally fixed all the fluctuations without having to run it on a battery: I put a small value capacitor across the leads for the thermistor. Works like a dream! No more random fluctations in the readings, and no more random clicking on and off of the relay! Perfectly smooth operation now. I used a 4.7 uf capacitor rated for 25 volts, but any small capacitor will usually work, as long as it is rated for 12v or more. So if you are having issues with a jumpy temperature readout, cut the thermistor wires somewhere convenient, and splice in a very small capacitor. Or if you would rather put the capacitor directly on the board, there are two nice solder points right next to the sensor connector you can use. The top side is positive, and the bottom side is negative. I tried a .1 uf capacitor and it worked just as well, but I went with the 4.7 uf because I might need the other one for something else. So the value of the cap is not hypercritical.
Hello, Do you have picture or a video of how it is done? If not, would you mind sending me a picture of it to mjshaheed.be@gmail.com. Thanks!
Bro it would be amazing if you can somehow share a picture or make a video of it. There are tons of people that want to get rid of this issue and your idea is brilliant!
Hello. Is this W1209 safe to use with 14.6V input voltage?
no.
Ok, thank you. Any suggestion what thermostat would be good to use with a "12V" LiFePO4 battery(max 4x3.6V)? Would need a thermostat to control heating pads in freezing temperature.
What will happen when the power goes off ? We have regular power cut in our area will it retain the settings
yes it will retain the settings.
Hi, is it necessary to use jumper cable wire connected k1 and 12v?? If so, what kind of cable is needed? Can i directly plug in cables from 12v adaptor?
for 12V yes it is okay. You can connect it as long as you know the polarity.. But for "jumper cable wire connected k1" sorry I did not understand it. What do you mean?
As in, can I just use any wire for the "short wire" that is used to put ino K1 and 12V? Or must it be a specific wire?
Can I use it for Radiator cooling fan sensor. Fan should set off at 75 C and fan should set on when the temperature reached 85C. Pls give your reply.
Yes you can as long as you are able to put the sensor inside liquid to get the temperature properly. Or attach the sensor to radiator with thermal compound so it get proper head sensing.
Would this work with a 12V dc supply having two of these modules in series? One to switch a fan on at a certain temperature, and the other to switch off when a certain temperature is reached
turning on and off about the load and not about the power supply. so you can connect both to the 12V. and then you can connect them as AND or OR configuration to do something. to first device is A and second is B see this page www.ee.surrey.ac.uk/Projects/Labview/gatesfunc/
@@robojax Do you have any suggestions for AND gates that can support 12v?