Did this mod when you talked about upgrading. Did all the research as well to make sure as was worried about micro boiling in the head. Now my stroked boosted td runs 78 degrees all the time about 8 degree difference when towing. I run powercurve fan, high flow water pump and a 2.0bar radiator pressure cap, superior air dam and a slightly bigger radiator. Ran a desert cooler for 3 years in it but had issues with a power leak that ate it out turned out to be headlight earths on each side just behind the lights. Also Pool noodles all around to make sure no air can escape going through the radiator. Great videos very informative thanks keep it up.
@@yendorthe5th that’s not good at all what happened? Sorry to hear. Did it crack the head or grab liners etc? Probably not a huge difference but everything done together is what makes the difference. Even down to exhaust manifold heat shield cover top stainless one piece radiator air shroud / radiator holding bracket. What lights / bar etc anything stopping airflow if running a little rich Afrs But the biggest thing with heat is the tune. Mines done 15 thousand since the build and I can tell it’s ready to be re tuned egts going up 50 degree more on the hills it’s always travelled re lash and set valves. arp head studs are a must with stroker and over 20 pound boost I learned the hard way that’s how I toasted my stroker first time around and had to re build towing van and booted it on a hill and just lifted the lid clean off it but it had not been tuned for a long time was running a bit rich. Temp guage varies as well depending where after market gauge picks up temps too. There is a few other mods that can be done as well to help stop micro boiling in the head with a external coolant bypass line. Also I add diesel water wetter to the system to help.
@@karloz83 bloody thing cooked the head and cracked the block, Rebuild suppose to be done Friday, hoping no more delays I’ve been waiting 6 months… now has a new head and a crack tested block which has been re lined etc. couldn’t get a new block anywhere. She has a 300hp pump but wasn’t pushing stupid numbers, always been a Smokey dog though. Thought is that lack of torque plate on previous machining had the parent bores out of round abit and potentially the pump not set ideally, it is a UFI pump however, they are going to have a look at it for me, AFR’s weren’t terrible, we’re 19.74 then tuned to 19.9 Started pumping coolant out of the over flow after I got it back from being tuned at UFI, can only assume a build issue as those fellas know their shit and ending at 190kw still isn’t anything special for what the engine is. 34k cost for the build, had no expense spared in terms of parts but perhaps the machinist and builder kooked it. I’ll never know and no one will cover f*** all so I have no choice but to rebuild it, Just would like to know it will last now, or how to make it so and still have the power I’ve paid for.. Heaps of 200kw stock engines running around so I just don’t understand it. Got some good guys doing it this time but they haven’t done a Stroker before, typically just billet as stroker can be tricky.. Hoping she stays solid this time.. Was a heat issue from all accounts but the HP it ran for the majority of the time was nothing special to be honest, 175 kw then went to 190 with the UFI tune..
@@yendorthe5th oh that really Suxs big time and big $$ that’s not a lot of power for what it should be able to handle and your right dads stock td with ufi gear at 450 thousand kms unopened engine runs 180kw my stroker is 195kw on the run in tune. Wonder if thermostat got stuck or something is it a high flow water pump? Or standard one maybe it cavitated. Front mount or top mount cooler?
@@yendorthe5th maybe they cooked it on the dyno while running it in with not enough air flow etc arp studs put In then? Or did they just use bolts then studs later?
Used a DT79 for years in my 220rwhp TD as the std 76.5 was too cold in the winter. Not much difference cooling wise just a bit more stable. Never had any kettle issues would go max 100ish deg on soft sand, heavy towing or 40 degree days, but luckily not a combo of the 3 lol. Rest of cooling system was std apart from UFI fan. After a phone call with a well known waterpump builder and cooling expert named Derk in W.A. I ordered one of his pumps and he has a wealth of knowledge in TD cooling systems, he also advised that the D79 causes more long term issues and best to go back to std, replaced with 82 deg genuine.
Dt79a takes a long time to warm up they suck in winter and is apparently bad for the engine over a long time. The best combo is all new cooling system genuine or derk waterpump. With a ufi fan or 4jj1 fan. Standard alloy plastic radiator. 82 degree genuine Nissan thermostat. $200 radiator $70 for a fan $50 genuine thermo $100 genuine water pump is what I run cause I'm cheap works extremely well The derk and ufi set up is a lot more but does do the job perfect
Hey mate how you going? Yeah on my other gq patrol tried the 4jj1 fan but it was super close to the radiator but have fitted the qikazz fan which has fit nicely i also fitted the thermostat about 3 months later to test it out which has been fine for me. But speaking to a mate at work he said he is running the genuine td42t thermostat now which i didnt know about so might have another project/test video haha Anyway take it easy mate 👍
I did this mod about 10 months ago but only about 2500km as it is only used for towing rarely now and 4wding to camping spots more often. I have always considered the under bonnet still all original GQ (except airbox)ran too cold all the time using the typical 70x and 80x degree thermostats and I tried them many times now. I get almost exactly the same numbers as you using the 79a and it has been the first time in 16 years I have been near happy with it's running temperatures, heat sink directly after a highway run does seem to add another 4 degrees to the otherwise highest reading of 92 so far . The comment below about erosion has me worried...so might go back to the Dt 24a since it has ran for years already much cooler all the time. For 15 years I have been searching for an optimum running temperature number (ballpark even) for the TD42 and have failed completely. If I run the second highest thermostat available it has trouble going above 82 unloaded on the highway and sits around town in the middle 70s often and heats up so slow compared to the 79a...these are not faulty thermostats either but it will run below the rated number..faulty ones can see running temps drop to 40 deg down a long enough slope for example. The Td42 is a crazy car to get the temperature just right for hopefully a longer life. I am cooked... going to refit and then forget from now on.
Gday mate Id try Weld a washer to what is left then a nut Quench it i like to use wd40 then try and remove But you'll have to probably remove the housing to clean up threads I have got us doing this in 1 of the gq patrol debuild rebuild videos
Just curious to know why would you run a thermo that opens in the 70s to then the new one to open in the 80s which causes you car to run hotter.I would switch back to the 70 degree thermo as it opens a lot sooner and keeps your car cooler.
Good question man I did the change years ago and from memory it ran the engine at about 82ish once fulling open it flowed better dropping the temps down to 78 ish This summer I played around with the TD42 turbo thermostat which sits around 78
Gday mate Wow I didn't know that. How long did you run the dt79a for before working that out? Ive had mine in the other patrol for about 18 months now that would make a cool video to pull the water pump off and have a look 👍
@@downtheshedwithbyron Derk in Perth has videos on it running clear water tanks and water pipes through a factory water pump and testing thermostats and water pumps etc. He doesn’t do RUclips but he send them through messenger
I have the same issue with my timing case, could be DT79 but Derk said it could be bad earth to engine. Def worth the phone call to Him ive been waiting for 4 months for my pump so far, must be a reason why he can't keep up with the demand, his pumps work and no one understands cooling systems like him. Unlike other companies who sell you a hi flow pump with no idea of what it does and how it works.
I had the time of my life removing the 3 bolts holding the housing. Snap, snap. Had to use torch to remove snapped bolts x2. Used lots of anti-sieze this time. BTW. i still haven't been able to find with any mechanic if there is actually a drain bolt on the head, too, somewhere under the manifold to drain that other 10L of coolant out. Hard to find parts for the Patrol in Pakistan. Mostly it is Land Cruiser here.🤬
@@downtheshedwithbyron Are you familiar with solenoid for glow plugs ...I have it in my TD4.2 I use a push button to activate the glow I'm worried that one day it will stop working and not being able to start the td...can they be by-pust?
Gday Jessie Yeah a week after I released this video I see a lot of people saying they have gone back to standed. I did a trip out into the bush it was over 35°c every day and my temps were in the high 90s. So my going to try the 21200-58G04 standed td42t thermostat and see what happens. Cheers for your feed back
@@downtheshedwithbyron Yeah just went out in the bush all day today never got hot once and going up big hill on freeway doing 110 old dt79a use to rise pretty quickly up around 90/95 Genuine one today sat around 82 or so in same scenario
Hey mate So my mate GU TD42 is running the DT79A no dramas My GQ which i have swapped to the factory TD42 turbo thermostat which has been great but still on days over 35 car trailer on going up the hill still gets up to the 96ish temps but otherwise running 78ish with normal driving
@@downtheshedwithbyron awesome! I’ve watched a few of your videos and followed the QIKAZZ fan and the thermostat. I’ve got a GQ silver top do you think it’s worth going back to the standard one or keeping the dt79a in?
GDay 🦘 Pluga 😉🤙 New skiD here 📍 I suspect thermÖ’s on Strike 🪧 so I’m All ears 👂🏻 & Bow pëps 👀 Cheers 🍻, now I’ll check if ür featuriŊ’ the relevant [mine] motor 🏁 💨
Did this mod when you talked about upgrading. Did all the research as well to make sure as was worried about micro boiling in the head.
Now my stroked boosted td runs 78 degrees all the time about 8 degree difference when towing.
I run powercurve fan, high flow water pump and a 2.0bar radiator pressure cap, superior air dam and a slightly bigger radiator. Ran a desert cooler for 3 years in it but had issues with a power leak that ate it out turned out to be headlight earths on each side just behind the lights.
Also Pool noodles all around to make sure no air can escape going through the radiator.
Great videos very informative thanks keep it up.
Hey mate, have just cooked a stroker @10000 kms, not ideal.. reckon the air dam makes a big difference?
@@yendorthe5th that’s not good at all what happened? Sorry to hear. Did it crack the head or grab liners etc?
Probably not a huge difference but everything done together is what makes the difference. Even down to exhaust manifold heat shield cover top stainless one piece radiator air shroud / radiator holding bracket. What lights / bar etc anything stopping airflow if running a little rich Afrs But the biggest thing with heat is the tune. Mines done 15 thousand since the build and I can tell it’s ready to be re tuned egts going up 50 degree more on the hills it’s always travelled re lash and set valves.
arp head studs are a must with stroker and over 20 pound boost I learned the hard way that’s how I toasted my stroker first time around and had to re build towing van and booted it on a hill and just lifted the lid clean off it but it had not been tuned for a long time was running a bit rich. Temp guage varies as well depending where after market gauge picks up temps too.
There is a few other mods that can be done as well to help stop micro boiling in the head with a external coolant bypass line. Also I add diesel water wetter to the system to help.
@@karloz83 bloody thing cooked the head and cracked the block,
Rebuild suppose to be done Friday, hoping no more delays I’ve been waiting 6 months… now has a new head and a crack tested block which has been re lined etc. couldn’t get a new block anywhere.
She has a 300hp pump but wasn’t pushing stupid numbers, always been a Smokey dog though.
Thought is that lack of torque plate on previous machining had the parent bores out of round abit and potentially the pump not set ideally, it is a UFI pump however, they are going to have a look at it for me, AFR’s weren’t terrible, we’re 19.74 then tuned to 19.9
Started pumping coolant out of the over flow after I got it back from being tuned at UFI, can only assume a build issue as those fellas know their shit and ending at 190kw still isn’t anything special for what the engine is.
34k cost for the build, had no expense spared in terms of parts but perhaps the machinist and builder kooked it.
I’ll never know and no one will cover f*** all so I have no choice but to rebuild it,
Just would like to know it will last now, or how to make it so and still have the power I’ve paid for..
Heaps of 200kw stock engines running around so I just don’t understand it.
Got some good guys doing it this time but they haven’t done a Stroker before, typically just billet as stroker can be tricky..
Hoping she stays solid this time..
Was a heat issue from all accounts but the HP it ran for the majority of the time was nothing special to be honest, 175 kw then went to 190 with the UFI tune..
@@yendorthe5th oh that really Suxs big time and big $$
that’s not a lot of power for what it should be able to handle and your right dads stock td with ufi gear at 450 thousand kms unopened engine runs 180kw my stroker is 195kw on the run in tune. Wonder if thermostat got stuck or something is it a high flow water pump? Or standard one maybe it cavitated. Front mount or top mount cooler?
@@yendorthe5th maybe they cooked it on the dyno while running it in with not enough air flow etc arp studs put In then? Or did they just use bolts then studs later?
Used a DT79 for years in my 220rwhp TD as the std 76.5 was too cold in the winter. Not much difference cooling wise just a bit more stable. Never had any kettle issues would go max 100ish deg on soft sand, heavy towing or 40 degree days, but luckily not a combo of the 3 lol. Rest of cooling system was std apart from UFI fan.
After a phone call with a well known waterpump builder and cooling expert named Derk in W.A. I ordered one of his pumps and he has a wealth of knowledge in TD cooling systems, he also advised that the D79 causes more long term issues and best to go back to std, replaced with 82 deg genuine.
Dt79a takes a long time to warm up they suck in winter and is apparently bad for the engine over a long time. The best combo is all new cooling system genuine or derk waterpump. With a ufi fan or 4jj1 fan. Standard alloy plastic radiator. 82 degree genuine Nissan thermostat.
$200 radiator
$70 for a fan
$50 genuine thermo
$100 genuine water pump is what I run cause I'm cheap works extremely well
The derk and ufi set up is a lot more but does do the job perfect
Hey mate how you going?
Yeah on my other gq patrol tried the 4jj1 fan but it was super close to the radiator but have fitted the qikazz fan which has fit nicely i also fitted the thermostat about 3 months later to test it out which has been fine for me.
But speaking to a mate at work he said he is running the genuine td42t thermostat now which i didnt know about so might have another project/test video haha
Anyway take it easy mate 👍
Thanks dude for the video I was confused about the after market temperature degrees 82°c .❤
Bro if you haven't got the thermostat yet try a td42 turbo ive trial this 1 for a year now i think its better
Awesome stuff mate! Keep it up 🤙🏽
Thanks but I think I got confuised😅.
The higher stamped temp. means better cooling or less cooling!!
I did this mod about 10 months ago but only about 2500km as it is only used for towing rarely now and 4wding to camping spots more often. I have always considered the under bonnet still all original GQ (except airbox)ran too cold all the time using the typical 70x and 80x degree thermostats and I tried them many times now.
I get almost exactly the same numbers as you using the 79a and it has been the first time in 16 years I have been near happy with it's running temperatures, heat sink directly after a highway run does seem to add another 4 degrees to the otherwise highest reading of 92 so far . The comment below about erosion has me worried...so might go back to the Dt 24a since it has ran for years already much cooler all the time.
For 15 years I have been searching for an optimum running temperature number (ballpark even) for the TD42 and have failed completely. If I run the second highest thermostat available it has trouble going above 82 unloaded on the highway and sits around town in the middle 70s often and heats up so slow compared to the 79a...these are not faulty thermostats either but it will run below the rated number..faulty ones can see running temps drop to 40 deg down a long enough slope for example. The Td42 is a crazy car to get the temperature just right for hopefully a longer life. I am cooked... going to refit and then forget from now on.
Sweet mate
Yeah the td42 is a funny engine but i love it
thanks sir good tutorial.
Hey Byron...snapped the long bolt on the back of housing...any advice on how to get it out& replace...TIA
Gday mate
Id try Weld a washer to what is left then a nut Quench it i like to use wd40 then try and remove
But you'll have to probably remove the housing to clean up threads
I have got us doing this in 1 of the gq patrol debuild rebuild videos
Just curious to know why would you run a thermo that opens in the 70s to then the new one to open in the 80s which causes you car to run hotter.I would switch back to the 70 degree thermo as it opens a lot sooner and keeps your car cooler.
Good question man
I did the change years ago and from memory it ran the engine at about 82ish once fulling open it flowed better dropping the temps down to 78 ish
This summer I played around with the TD42 turbo thermostat which sits around 78
The DT79 thermostat causes water cavitation issues on warm up which slowly eats away at the block where the water pump bolts too.
Gday mate
Wow I didn't know that.
How long did you run the dt79a for before working that out?
Ive had mine in the other patrol for about 18 months now that would make a cool video to pull the water pump off and have a look 👍
@@downtheshedwithbyron Derk in Perth has videos on it running clear water tanks and water pipes through a factory water pump and testing thermostats and water pumps etc.
He doesn’t do RUclips but he send them through messenger
Yeah sweet ill check it out
Thanks again
@@downtheshedwithbyron Look me up on Facebook i can forward you videos
JC Terry
I have the same issue with my timing case, could be DT79 but Derk said it could be bad earth to engine. Def worth the phone call to Him ive been waiting for 4 months for my pump so far, must be a reason why he can't keep up with the demand, his pumps work and no one understands cooling systems like him. Unlike other companies who sell you a hi flow pump with no idea of what it does and how it works.
I had the time of my life removing the 3 bolts holding the housing. Snap, snap. Had to use torch to remove snapped bolts x2. Used lots of anti-sieze this time. BTW. i still haven't been able to find with any mechanic if there is actually a drain bolt on the head, too, somewhere under the manifold to drain that other 10L of coolant out. Hard to find parts for the Patrol in Pakistan. Mostly it is Land Cruiser here.🤬
Yeah mate there is a plug l/h rear of the block
G- day Warren could you please show how to remove the coolant bolt on td4.2 at the rear bottom ...
Hey man
Yeah what bolt are you talking about should just be a 12mm socket undo as normal?
@@downtheshedwithbyron All sorted it was a 12mm was hard to reach but got there in the end..
Sweet bro merry Christmas mate
@@downtheshedwithbyron Are you familiar with solenoid for glow plugs ...I have it in my TD4.2 I use a push button to activate the glow I'm worried that one day it will stop working and not being able to start the td...can they be by-pust?
Are you talking about the glow plug relay box that green box
ohh sticky side, have not seen that before.
Number 1
Yeah boy
I had the dt79a from qikazz just swapped back to factory
Gday Jessie
Yeah a week after I released this video I see a lot of people saying they have gone back to standed.
I did a trip out into the bush it was over 35°c every day and my temps were in the high 90s.
So my going to try the 21200-58G04 standed td42t thermostat and see what happens.
Cheers for your feed back
@@downtheshedwithbyron
Yeah just went out in the bush all day today never got hot once and going up big hill on freeway doing 110 old dt79a use to rise pretty quickly up around 90/95
Genuine one today sat around 82 or so in same scenario
@@downtheshedwithbyron Can we get a update on what thermostat you are using?
Hey mate
So my mate GU TD42 is running the DT79A no dramas
My GQ which i have swapped to the factory TD42 turbo thermostat which has been great but still on days over 35 car trailer on going up the hill still gets up to the 96ish temps but otherwise running 78ish with normal driving
@@downtheshedwithbyron awesome! I’ve watched a few of your videos and followed the QIKAZZ fan and the thermostat. I’ve got a GQ silver top do you think it’s worth going back to the standard one or keeping the dt79a in?
My car keeps overheating and i cant figure out why
Gday jimbo
How did you go work it out?
Either your thermostat radiator clutch fan or water pump
You can get special oil for the clutch fan from Toyota, I did and topped up my clutch fan myself.
GDay 🦘 Pluga 😉🤙
New skiD here 📍
I suspect thermÖ’s on Strike 🪧 so I’m All ears 👂🏻 & Bow pëps 👀 Cheers 🍻, now I’ll check if ür featuriŊ’ the relevant [mine] motor 🏁 💨
Cheers mate
what pressure rating radiator cap do you use Byron?
Hey mate just a standard cap