Another requested video showing how to take the gear assemblies out of the downfeed and reinstall them. 0:00 - Intro 0:35 - Disassembly 7:14 - Reassembly
Just in time, Barry! I’m about to get ready to reassemble my headstock. When I tore it down for powder coat, getting the horizontal shaft out was the hardest part. I ended up getting it without screwing anything up. Amazingly, it comes apart fairly easy when you’re doing it right!
Always look forward to your email notifications. My power down feed has locked up, so it looks like this video will be of great help when I tear into it for the fix.
awesome! great informative video as usual. i notice higher resolution. new camera?? fancy intro as well. keep up the fantastic work. would like to see videos of other equipment as well.
That's actually Virginia's phone that we are using for the videos now, they have come a long way. What other equipment are you thinking of? We are always looking for ideas.
Why did you put the block in when prying on it, but leave it out when you hammered on it? As far as the continued use of these mills is concerned, these videos are priceless. One wonders at the added hours of service life of these mills worldwide have been extended due to their publication.
The block is only there for support when I am prying the cluster gear assembly out because of the down pressure sometimes needed to remove the shaft. Without the block there is a chance of bending the horizonal shaft. You do not need the support block when reassembling because there is no down pressure being applied. -Barry
I'm working on a Prototrak DPM3 that has a head modeled after the Bridgeport 2J, and given that it is a 3-axis CNC I have a hard time thinking of a case where I would need to use the power downfeed. I'm always interested in finding ways to tidy machines up, and so it got me wondering if all the hardware associated with the power downfeed could be removed and whether the head would continue working well otherwise without it.
Watched your show on the spindle disassembly. I have a partner milling machine head on my which looks like a Bridgeport J head. Some of the parts are interchangeable. I needed to remove the spindle nose to replace the collet stop. The nose is not in great shape and has had a pipe wrench used on it in the past and it is left hand thread. Do you know of a source for a new spindle nose for this machine? Thanks
Hi Barry great information! I noticed that you didn't add any grease or lube during assembly, I'm guessing that you did it later. If so what type of lube-grease did you use? I just made a look at my BP mill to see if there was any way to lube those shafts & gears & didn't see any! Perhaps I have missed something! Please keep your knowledge coming! Snoopy
We didn't add grease because some of those parts were going to be replaced, and I didn't feel like cleaning them again. Like most other items in the head, you are going to want to add grease to the gears. Don't cake it on, but a decent coating on them is what you will want. -Barry
@@HWMachRepair Some of your parts that come of old machines are so covered in gunk, could you please do a quick parts washing video? Nothing as satisfying as seeing those caked old parts come out all shiny. Also tips on best cleaning practice?
We started to disassemble the top housing and back gear. We will do quill housing disassemble next. My Question is what lubrication do we need to apply at the down feed gear oil or grease?
Do you only work on Bridgeport ? What about Wells index 847.. are the similar or very different? My mill I’ve had for years when I got it power down feed does not work .. I would love to fix it
So to take slop out of the system do you move both the bevel gears (top shaft down, handle shaft out) or just pull out on the handle shaft before drilling the bushings and installing a set screws?
I cannot get to the first step! The ball that is in the shaft in front of the engagement lever for the quill, will not depress enough or fall out for me to remove the cast iron lever assembly. I think I've gone thru 10 videos now and I cannot get past that 1st step. Normally those balls fall out and hide under your 5000lb lathe never to be found again, in my case, I don't see a burr holding it in but it won't fall out. Help if you can please....
Hello, Can you just replace the bolt with reverse knob with out having to pull that whole assembly? we just broke the reverse knob.. and what thread pitch is it..
Yes, the reverse knob can be change without having to remove anything except the knob itself. If the bolt has broken off, you should be able to easily back it out with a pick since it does not bottom out in the shaft. The reverse knob bolt has an 8-32 thread.
During a rebuild? The only one that we don't do every time is the column, and that's because it very rarely has enough wear to justify the extra work, and cost that would need to go into it. Generally during a full rebuild we do the table, sadde, and knee, all way surfaces.
Your time and attention to detail is much appreciated and thanks for sharing. Great Job and video👍👍👍
Thanks Barry! Nothing better than showing us how its done!
This is the first video of yours I have watched. Absolutely first rate. Thank you very much.
Barry needs his own t-shirt, “sometimes it comes out easy, but usually…” the Barry disclaimer.
Just in time, Barry! I’m about to get ready to reassemble my headstock. When I tore it down for powder coat, getting the horizontal shaft out was the hardest part. I ended up getting it without screwing anything up. Amazingly, it comes apart fairly easy when you’re doing it right!
Thanks so much, you guys have a great channel. I watch every video.
Great videos. Thanks for your help.
Another fantastic video. Thanks Barry.
Thanks for such great information! Very grateful for sharing your great experience with us!!!!!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Thanks for you I fixed my milling all by myself!
Thanks a lot and regards from austria/EU...!
Always look forward to your email notifications. My power down feed has locked up, so it looks like this video will be of great help when I tear into it for the fix.
I'm right there with everyone else.
Great video.
Thank you
Great video. Im in process of doing this thank you
awesome! great informative video as usual. i notice higher resolution. new camera?? fancy intro as well. keep up the fantastic work. would like to see videos of other equipment as well.
That's actually Virginia's phone that we are using for the videos now, they have come a long way. What other equipment are you thinking of? We are always looking for ideas.
@@HWMachRepair any non Bridgeport mill. surface grinder?? scraping the ways?
Good work thanks
Thank you!
Es una lastima que no le coloquen subtitulos en español, estos videos son una guía muy importante para nuestro trabajo de mantenimiento
Saludos desde chile
Why did you put the block in when prying on it, but leave it out when you hammered on it? As far as the continued use of these mills is concerned, these videos are priceless. One wonders at the added hours of service life of these mills worldwide have been extended due to their publication.
The block is only there for support when I am prying the cluster gear assembly out because of the down pressure sometimes needed to remove the shaft. Without the block there is a chance of bending the horizonal shaft. You do not need the support block when reassembling because there is no down pressure being applied. -Barry
I'm working on a Prototrak DPM3 that has a head modeled after the Bridgeport 2J, and given that it is a 3-axis CNC I have a hard time thinking of a case where I would need to use the power downfeed. I'm always interested in finding ways to tidy machines up, and so it got me wondering if all the hardware associated with the power downfeed could be removed and whether the head would continue working well otherwise without it.
Watched your show on the spindle disassembly. I have a partner milling machine head on my which looks like a Bridgeport J head. Some of the parts are interchangeable. I needed to remove the spindle nose to replace the collet stop. The nose is not in great shape and has had a pipe wrench used on it in the past and it is left hand thread. Do you know of a source for a new spindle nose for this machine? Thanks
Hi Barry great information! I noticed that you didn't add any grease or lube during assembly, I'm guessing that you did it later. If so what type of lube-grease did you use? I just made a look at my BP mill to see if there was any way to lube those shafts & gears & didn't see any! Perhaps I have missed something! Please keep your knowledge coming!
Snoopy
We didn't add grease because some of those parts were going to be replaced, and I didn't feel like cleaning them again. Like most other items in the head, you are going to want to add grease to the gears. Don't cake it on, but a decent coating on them is what you will want. -Barry
@@HWMachRepair Some of your parts that come of old machines are so covered in gunk, could you please do a quick parts washing video? Nothing as satisfying as seeing those caked old parts come out all shiny. Also tips on best cleaning practice?
We started to disassemble the top housing and back gear. We will do quill housing disassemble next. My Question is what lubrication do we need to apply at the down feed gear oil or grease?
Already saw it at reassembly of quill housing.. Grease from the cover.
Do you only work on Bridgeport ? What about Wells index 847.. are the similar or very different? My mill I’ve had for years when I got it power down feed does not work .. I would love to fix it
I like that trash can
So to take slop out of the system do you move both the bevel gears (top shaft down, handle shaft out) or just pull out on the handle shaft before drilling the bushings and installing a set screws?
Watched a second time and I think I picked up on it. Adjust both until you have minimal slop and the bevel gears engage each other equally.
@@jeffpream5019 That's exactly correct. you just need to make sure they engage each other equally.
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Can you please do a video going over the whole head and quill assembly on what to oil or grease where and how often please!! ?
Hi David, I let Barry know and we think we will put this together for the newsletter this month. Keep a lookout for it in the next week or so.
I cannot get to the first step! The ball that is in the shaft in front of the engagement lever for the quill, will not depress enough or fall out for me to remove the cast iron lever assembly. I think I've gone thru 10 videos now and I cannot get past that 1st step. Normally those balls fall out and hide under your 5000lb lathe never to be found again, in my case, I don't see a burr holding it in but it won't fall out. Help if you can please....
No specks to ck on those , just if its loose or gears damaged.
Hello, Can you just replace the bolt with reverse knob with out having to pull that whole assembly? we just broke the reverse knob.. and what thread pitch is it..
Yes, the reverse knob can be change without having to remove anything except the knob itself. If the bolt has broken off, you should be able to easily back it out with a pick since it does not bottom out in the shaft. The reverse knob bolt has an 8-32 thread.
Will the vertical shaft raise high enough to remove the horizontal shaft without complete disassembly of the top end?
The quick answer is nope….
The cradle assembly gets in the way and you have to take the top half of the head off in order to remove that.
@@HWMachRepair Thank you.
Do you re scrap all the ways?
During a rebuild? The only one that we don't do every time is the column, and that's because it very rarely has enough wear to justify the extra work, and cost that would need to go into it. Generally during a full rebuild we do the table, sadde, and knee, all way surfaces.
Why no oil on those gears
And no provision for it ?
Tại sao chạy tốc độ nhanh nó kêu to lắm