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“Is it worth it” is always subjective. I try to provide enough information in my reviews so that you can determine whether or not it is worth the extra money
I have four Monolith 12". A few tips for the previous Monolith versions that I found helpful. 1) During initial setup, set the sub gain/volume dial to THX (all the way to the left until it clicks). Then run your AVR calibration. This effort seems to 'calibrate' your sub (itself) to reference level. Yes, it doesn't make sense and seems weird, but it worked / helped when I thought I received bad subs at first due to low output. 2) Then afterwards, set you gain to your liking. I put all of my sub's gain dial at +6, run Audyssey which puts it at -11 db in the AVR, then I change it to -5 in my AVR. I believe it's better to use your subs amp power more than your AVR's preout power to help avoid clipping and distortion. I recommend keeping your AVR sub power/gain in the negative numbers no matter what. 3) Use a RCA splitter at the sub and plug in the left & right at the same time. It's adds a few db to overall output. Great results for me in my HT. I'm curious if these tricks hold true for the newer versions...?
I have this new monolith 13 and was rather underwhelmed with the output. Quite a few owners complained about weak output. I tried both my subwoofer outs to feed the left and right input and that gave me quite a few db of gain back. It needs an rca splitter. This sub needs a hot signal to make it perform. I suppose you could use a bump box to boost the rca signal to the sub. Rolls mb15 line converter box or art clean box pro. Monoprice should tell their customers this thing needs 3-4 volts to perform as most avr's put out less than that. My svs runs quite well with the 1.5-2 volts from my receiver. Works ok with an rca splitter. Not sure how that affects the lfe performance.
@@honda12345678 you nailed it on the head! I tried literally everything, and the art clean box pro was the solution. Trying to artificially bump up the voltage via a minidsp and receiver was not working well. When I finally got that bump box my monolith 16s came to life! Now they actually outperform my old subs substantially with both movies and movies like they should.
@@Youthman yeah, they've updated them in the new matte black 13 and 16 inch subs, probably assuming the user is using their $4000 Monolith preamp or something equivalent rather than a $1500 receiver like me. Considering these subs retail for about $5k a pair, I guess they assume a more reasonable person would be using an equivalently priced receiver.
That was a very good video, you continue to get better and better at this! Port chuffing is just one reason I never liked ported subs but I had a similar problem in my old theater with an open baffle woofer system. By mounting woofers opposing each other I eliminated mechanical energy in the baffle but because I put them too close together, I got a similar effect to port chuffing. I won't make that mistake again. This woofer seems a little small to have a lot of output at 10 Hz but of course the simple solution would be to just use several of them:-)
Great Video! Looks like another great sub fom Monolith! The thing is massive size wise though which is really not apparent in your video; not a problem in a dedicated space, but a hard sell for mixed use room. Had to laugh at Joe and Tell's video on this sub when he asked his wife " can I put this in the living room" Her "Uh,... NO!" response was classic. I ended up going the infinite baffle route to get the bass I want in our Great Room. My wife wasn't crazy about me cutting a big hole in the floor of our new house, but she could live with the 4 - 15's hanging from the ceiling of the unfinished basement and a unobtrusive floor grate in the room.
Lovely video, I like the development your reviews have had over the years:) I would love if you could showcase a Dali sub K-14 F one day. Many greetings from Denmark
I would have to go back and look at my measurements but I believe this will outperform it, especially in those lower frequencies. SVS typically roll their subs off quite quickly below 17Hz
No worries. Crossover for left, center, right in my Marantz processor is 60Hz. The LFE setting in the Marantz is 120Hz (or highest it will go) Crossover on the sub is set as high as it will go. This video should help - ruclips.net/video/6Z0svzYSAEM/видео.html
Any interest in reviewing Rythmik subs? I just bought dual F18s and they have completely changed how I appreciate bass. You cannot believe the quality. You would love them.
@@DustinFrancis It's crazy because the footprint is smaller than my Klipsch 15s I've had for a while. They are sleeper subs and I love it. No one assumes much from the looks.
Well done👍@Youthman . We make a lot of home theaters in India & we really appreciate you for your passion & showing quality content to people😊 thats great to see this sub can as deep as 10hz & 150db & we got another genelec 7382a sub recently (video in our channel) which goes 15hz & 130db with 2500 watts class d amplifier. We wish you all the best from team USK Home Theatres Hyderabad India🙏
I purchased two of these about three weeks ago and one has pretty significant port chuffing regardless of how many ports are sealed. it varies in intensity based on frequency and volume. very difficult to isolate noise and sealing ports has minimal effect
HI Youthman I need your advice, I have a SVS PB 3000, Am looking to get another Sub, I know someone selling a Svs 16 Ultra for 1500 which is a awesome deal, Do you think it's ok to run the PB 3000 with the 16 Ultra or would it be to much of a different?
In order to eliminate port chuffing with such a high output subwoofer you would need a port which is larger than the box.The port volume must be added to the required driver box volume. Everybody wants the biggest bass in the smallest box.It is not commercially viable to build ideal subwoofer enclosures and their size wouldn't be practical in a home theater.This sub uses a 13inch monster driver with massive cone travel and has greater output than the Monolith 15 inch, hence the larger amplifier.The 16 inch version will be a dragon.Owing to box size constraints the three ports in this sub is a severe compromised .Another problem is that the fat and wide surrounds needed to allow for extremely long cone travel tend to warp and slap around noisily when driven hard at very low frequencies and add to the port chuffing noise.
This was a great review. Hit all the major points. I was curious about how many db your house curve is. Is yours generated from REW when you get the filters to EQ it? I just used a Low shelf filter 10dB which slopes it up from 80Hz.
@@LichaelMewis I already had the Monolith 10" sub, so I just bought another Monolith 10" sub and called it a day. My wife is already over me for the 2 10"s, so just imagine if I had the 215 or the 16" sub. Wives you cant live with them or without them. 😄
Do you recall this level of port chuffing with the mono 15? Trying to figure out if this chuffs more than others, or if it was just noticeable because you disconnected your amplifier and only played the sub.
For whatever it's worth, I had 2 Mono 15's before buying my 18" Marty's from GSG. I only ever noticed the chuffing when you started reaching reference levels. I would say it depends on your listening habits. Me, I don't watch movies with that much volume, so it was non-existent for me. Hope that helps.
@@timanders3151 thanks for the input. I purchased two mono 15’s that arrived last week (one was defective and currently being shipped back for a replacement) and I leave them in THX mode to prevent hearing chuffing because I know to hit THX standards there is a limit on distortion. I hate chuffing 😂 and I really questioned whether or not to wait for these 13’s.
Tim is correct. As mentioned in the video, unless you like to listen to them near reference you won’t have issues with chuffing. My dual PB16’s would chuff at high volume as well. Unfortunately, a lot of ported subs will chuff during low frequencies and high volume.
@@ddub2195 this type of chuffing won't be heard in regular listening. All ported subs will chuffed if driven hard enough it just is what it is. But nobody will ususlly ever drive the whole soundtrack and the subs to reference level. That's ear damaging loud. Odds are very high you'll never experience it in real world use at your normal listening levels
@@danzilla31stompinontokyo36 I disagree. My Marty's with Ultimax 18-22's, SPA1000 plates do 116db at 20hz with no chuff. But they are 22" slot ported enclosures. You can build them with DSP for WAY less than the Mono 13", as well.
Hey Youthman. Enjoying your content! Suggestion box item: Create a video describing your experience with Acoustically Transparent screens and how you arrived at your choice. The subject is confusing with with so many people expressing cautions regarding sound degradation and/or visual issues, especially if sitting close. How has your experience been? Is your screen a keeper, or have you thought about replacing it with something new?
hi, slightly off topic, many people will calibrate for reference as 75db/85db at 0db master volume, generally 105db is a peak. Looks like you calibrated for 75db at -20/-30db avr master volume. Thats why your graph shows upto 105db when you set master volume at 0db. I guess its either way you can calibrate it is end users choice as far as it is mathematically correct.
Awesome review, the 13" seems like a beast. However, the 15" is on sale for $1,149.99, which is a full $450 less. Which do you think is the better value? The 13" or the 15"? Would you prefer to use dual 13" or dual 15"?
This isn't really answering your question, but ill tell you, dual 15s JAM! I have a couple, and am VERY happy with them. For $1150....you better pull the trigger.
Retired at 49 More power doesn't necessarily mean it'll be louder however the Monolith 13" is only 2- 3 decibels quieter than the SVS PB16 (which has much more power) specifically in clean output. That's right it's comparable to the 16" subwoofer SVS released which should tell you it's no slouch so it definitely should surpass the Monolith 15.
@@number1pappy You are right. One thing that surprised me was, he said that 13 was port chuffing. I've run these 15s HARD, and they WILL NOT port chuff, nor will they distort. I wish I could demo a pair of these 13s against my 15s. Something tells me, even with less power, these 15s might jam better.
Great video as always. My wife is so not happy I watched this review. lol she immediately said nope nope nope when i told her the size and weight. You're getting me in trouble sir hahaha
Great video. Would you get 1 of this or 2 PB-1000 Pro? My home theater is set up in basement family room about 1000 sq feet in size. Thanks in advance.
@@happydogg312 Just set up the PB 2000s. Played the intro to Live, Die, Repeat several times. The neighbor came over the next day and said he could feel the bass in his house. They are really amazing subs. These things took my system to a whole new level!! The tunnel gunfight scene in John Wick 2 and all of Godzilla: King of the Monsters is crazy. These replaced a single 15" Velodyne sub, which was good for its day, but holy S%$T these are awesome. You were right, I am grinning ear to ear watching movies and listening to music.
@@happydogg312 I went for dual sb-2000 also in my small HT room. I measured them 107db@20Hz. That is more than Youthman measured the Monolith 13 in his (large) room. Enough to shake the seats and your body. It always depends…
Hey buddy do you know what Klipsch center channel speaker match the Klipsch rp-280 speakers I think it is the Klipsch rp-440c but I'm not sure. Can you help me out.
Would you recommend one of these or 2 of the monolith 12 thx? Price would be a little less for the 12's. Also, if I only have a 15a circuit available, would that be enough for the 2000 watt peak amp? I can use 2 outlets on different 15a circuits also running Denon 4500 receiver, rv etc.
Hi, i want to sell my current speakers and receivers to upgrade to new and improved system. I don’t want to compromise on the price I get, as everything is in very good sate. What is my best option?
The port chuffing noises are not happening necessary because the ports are too small. They happen because of their design. They're too round and the air tries to escape passing through the diameter of the hole meeting at the same time at the exit. Yamaha has solved this problem with their twisted flare port design. Go check it out in case you haven't seen it. Another thing, the human hearing is not limited down to 20 hz, 20 is just a number that people keep regurgitating without thinking and testing anything. In lab conditions we can hear as low as 12 hz. If you can't hear that it means there might be something wrong with your hearing. I for instance can tell what frequency is played with almost perfect precision from 12 hz up to 50 hz in a blind test.
It's not a hard fact that no human can hear below 20Hz, but according to the following medical resources, the average could be a few dB lower (15Hz - 17Hz). www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK10924/ www.cochlea.org/en/hear/human-auditory-range I'm not finding any resource that says humans can hear down to 12Hz. I would be happy to check out the lab results you are referring to so feel free to quote your source. Some people have the ability to determine frequency or notes by hearing. Charlie Puth comes to mind as he has perfect pitch. But to say someone's hearing is wrong if they can't hear down to 12Hz is silly and incorrect. If you are able to determine any frequency between 12Hz and 50Hz in a blind test, I would love to see that on video. Feel free to email me a link to it at michael@youthmanreviews.com.
Great video! I’m guessing my room would like it best with two ports plugged…it SHOULD be cleaner sounding too. I gotta imagine in your room adding another would get rid of any chuffing because they wouldn’t have to be working as hard. Holding out until the 16 is released for sure!
@@Youthman I know you don’t always get to pick what you are sent, but companies really should provide you with dual subs to review. It would be even more “real works scenario” and it would always be beneficial for you and them when it came to reviewing them (minus dealing with the weight of course.)
I’m a big fan of running dual subs but there are plenty of people that do not run duals so although that would be beneficial for some, it would not be for others. Not to mention that’s double the cost of shipping both ways for the brand and that means I have not one 150lb monster to move around, but two. Not to mention calibrating dual subs.
Keep in mind that plugging the ports lowers the efficiency and, in turn, output. It also will effect tuning frequency. But yes, play around and find what sounds best.
So how does the Monoprice Ultra 13 stack up against the SVS PB-3000? Have you done a head to head comparison? Then higher up is the PB-4000 from SVS that my guess would outperform based on specs. Whats your take?
@@billybobby7607 so would this Monoprice and the pb3000 be most comparable in performance then. Sounds like the pb4000 would not be worth the $1000 extra
Ported subs have a more abrupt sound to them. Some describe them as violent bass. These are not near the level of JTR. The RS2 are flat to 5Hz and I’ve had them as high as 115dB at 5Hz which is EXTREMELY difficult to do.
@@Youthman yeah I get that. I was referring to the sound signature. I am sure you are familiar with the JTR sound signature both for their ported and sealed. I found the PB16 to have s similar signature with it’s thickish bass.
The RS2’s dig down to 5Hz but are super smooth and refined, yet with gobs of output. You get plenty of tactile bass but it’s definitely different than ported subs.
Here is the video with measurements. You can’t really compare the Monolith 13 with the measurements taking in this video because the subwoofer was not in the exact same place and the microphone was not in the exact same place. But it still should give you a good idea of what both of them are capable of. ruclips.net/video/tOkcKe3DUD0/видео.html
I am having so much trouble getting my dual monolith 16s to have adequate output. Recalibrated, tried y splitters and rca to XLR, experimented with almost every sub setting, but I still cannot get these subs to perform as expected. Any ideas? Seems to be a rampant issue, but all the forums are open-ended with no final responses about fixes
Do you have a UMIK-1 and REW to measure the frequency response? Your subs could be fighting against each other and cancelling out certain frequencies. If so, it has zero to do with the sub and everything to do with the acoustics and placement of the subs. One thing to try is turning off only one sub. Do you get good bass output then? Is so, that’s another confirmation it’s acoustics and not the subs.
@@Youthman I’ve taken a bunch of measurements with REW and confirmed cancellation isn’t occurring,m. Each monoliths SPL is just way under what it should be. My two worse Klipsch SPL-150s are providing more output at every frequency range right now
@@Youthman what did you use as the preamp and what type of connection? Apparently these things need a lot of signal. I’ve improve it by making out minidsp monolith gains at +12 and adding an additional +5 in the AVR sub trim. Sound improves even further when I turn the physical gain knobs from 50% to 75%, but now I’m worried about blowing the drivers with all of this signal input
I don’t recall what AVR or processor I had in at the time of this review. If you are having issues, I would recommend reaching out to Monolith tech support so they can help you troubleshoot it.
If you have two of these or even the two 16’s, would you pick those over JTR or is JTR just another league of its own. I’m literally torn between the two right now.
I have 2 M&K subwoofers in my home theater and I am happy about their performances, then I ordered a JTR RS2 7 months ago and I just received it couple months ago. I added it to my home theater and WOW, it's big, big improvement in the bass region, the huge energy from the RS2 is unbelievable, it shaked my whole house, I have to turn it down in respect of my neighbors. I am super happy with the RS2 and I am saving money to buy another one in the future.
Another great test scene is the very opening of LIVE DIE REPEAT with Tom Cruise. I’m sure you’ve heard that. My room is only 11x13 & I have two Hsu VTF-2 MK5’s, & on that scene my room vibrates and my kitchen door does as well, which is about 15-20’ away. - In Your room, with your JTR Subs, you might break something. lol
I’m not a fan of the intro of EOT. Unfortunately there’s nothing natural or realistic about listening to sine waves at 4 different frequencies. I personally would rather demo scenes from movies.
Well my dual vtf3 mk5 hsu subs would chuffed like crazy during that intro scene. My current dual pb3000 subs have zero perceptible chuffing for that intro. But... like youthman stated, that intro scene is not indicative of a subs performance. My old HSU setup actually edged out my pb3000s in tactile response and thump in the chest department. I do love how my svs subs can "dissapear" into the soundtrack however. Pros and cons to every sub. That said, the Mono 15" was probably my favorite of all the subs I've tried. Amazing chest thump and it was still able to "dissapear"
Hi for my setup: Denon AVR-4500H (125 watts at 8 ohm 2ch driven) Klipsch Rp 280fs (150W) Klipsch Rp 450c ( 150W ) Klipsch Rp 160m ( 100W ) Klipsch r-112sw SVS Prime elevation ( 20 - 150 W ) I was wondering if I need an external amp for my setup, if so which one would you recommend.
Depends on what volume level you listen at. Lets say you listen at -30db volume and never any higher, you might only be pulling a couple watts per speaker. Klipsch in general are higher sensitivity speakers even after you account for their inflated sensitivity numbers (probably safe to say you could subtract 6db from their numbers). However alternatively lets say you listen at -10db or -5db you might be taxing your AVR a lot more. I want to say that the x4500h is doing 70% of its 2ch number with 5 ch driven and even less with all channels driven so in this case you could be in an amplifier limited scenario. Also worth mentioning bass is hard to generate and so if you're doing stuff such as running your fronts as large or setting them to small with 40hz xo because they "play" down to 32hz at -3db you're robbing your system of better sound and wasting amplifier power on stuff that the subwoofer can do better. At a minimum you want all your channels at 80hz including your towers. Assuming you don't already getting a second r-112sw or the successor SPL120 or if your willing to jump brands (subs don't have audible timbre so its ok to mix and match) would be a greater impact on overall sound quality especially since that AVR actually has independent subwoofer outputs. Might be worth looking into REW + a UMIK-1 and also that Denon can do 11 channels so if you did get a 2 channel amp you can do 7.2.4 with that AVR.
Get two Mono 15"s. I have 2 Mono 12"s in a 24/14 - 2,200sqft acoustically treated room. Bass is perfect but I wish I had a bit more power in reserve for ultra low end. Wish I had put the extra $600 up for 2 15". But I'm going to add 1 "15 to round out the low end. But monoprice usually gives you a discount of $100-150 bucks when you buy 2 subs at full price. Plus black Friday I saved $100 per sub.
Why, when you look at mono price scale on what it can do, it show that it drops really fast after 20 htz just like a SVS. But you show that it hits really hard after 20 htz.
Great information. I think I missed your explanation of why there was such a large drop in out put around 50hz on all the charts you presented. Was this noticeable when speakers are set at the suggested 80hz crossover point? Sorry if you’ve had to repeat yourself and thanks for the video.
No worries. Yes the null is a result of the acoustics in my room. I’m installing (4) GIK bass traps today to see if it will help. It happens with every subwoofer I have reviewed and pretty much anywhere I place a sub in my room, I get a pretty significant null somewhere between 30 and 50 Hz.
@@Youthman Do you like DIY solutions? There are sound absorbing foams for studios you can stick to the walls, or build a trap(s) with acoustastuff or polyfill etc.
@YOUTHMAN I wonder what causes that suckout at 50 hz in your room, correcting that should do more than a better sub. Maybe try moving the subs to the back of the room or 1/4 placement? I'm sure you've done the crawl but 50 hz is a super important range for movies, gunshots and chest thumping bass, worth looking into for sure, good luck friend!
If you look at my room, I simply do not have many options for sub placement. If you look back at any video where I took REW measurements, they all have it. I’m hoping the new bass traps from GIK will help that but I’m not sure.
@@Youthman I get similar nulls (around 50 & 90) with my four 12" monoliths using minidsp, REW, and Audyssey calibration. Then I add about 5' to sub distance after calibration and the nulls disappear. In my case, it's an initial time alignment & crossover issue caused by Audyssey. Have you tried playing with the sub distance to correct this problem?
Good day fine sir. I have 2 Polk 12s HTS and looking for a little more. I'm in Canada and have tough time finding Monolith up here. I feel 2 15s would be perfect for my room. If you know anyone up here who's stocks it and can lead me to them that would be sweet. Thanks for your videos. My theater room is getting better because of your content. Thanks.
I have not reviewed the PB 4000 so I can’t tell you which I would prefer. SVS has the app. Monolith has the lower bass extension. I’m not sure which has more output.
@@Youthman base on CEA2010 review… the pb-3000 sounds almost the same as the pb-4000. However the 4000 offers a little more low end extension. So how about between the 3000 and the monolith 13?
@@Youthman the Monolith has more then extension. It has massive midbass over the 3000 and especially the 4000. It smashes the pb 3000 and outperforms the 4000 quite handily in both lower and upper extension
When calibrated, 0dB is Reference. That’s the whole purpose of using a Relative Volume scale (Relate to Reference). 0dB shouldn’t be the maximum of your AVR unless you set a limited in the setup menu.
Hello first off I want to start by saying excellent video. I've been following you for a while and I like and trust your reviews. So how would this sub compare to the SVS PB16? I'm in the process of getting a new sub. Was looking towards the SVS but now Monolith has dropped this so now I'm debating between those two subs.
Thank you kindly. I would have to go back and look at my previous measurements of the PB16’s to see how it compares. Both are incredible subs. If I were you, I would hold off to see some reviews on the model with 16 that will be coming out in October. I believe it will be indirect competition with the PB16. The Monolith 13 is competing against the PB3000 and PB4000.
Thank you very much. I can actually say you are one of the few RUclipsrs that ask people to leave comments and then you actually respond back. God bless
I do my best. Unfortunately I cannot get to every question and comment with 80,000 subscribers. That’s one reason I created Patreon as I answer every question there. Thank you kindly and God bless as well
@@kelvinholland7014 hey bro audioholics did reviews on this sub and the SVS PB 16 ultra. For $900 less this sub holds up to the PB 16 which only outperforms it In the deep bass from around 16 to 20 hz. But not by too much. At 25hz they are equal and after 50 or 60hz this sub destroys the PB 16 in upper bass. SVS has they're Bill of rights and the app control but this sub almost matches it in performance for 900 less. I want to wait until the Monolith 16 comes out. I have a large room and think I'll need the headroom otherwise I'd snatch this up in a heartbeat. Best of luck on whatever you decide to purchase!!!!
This thing cranks at the higher frequencies according to audioholics. I was in the same boat but decided to go with the monolith. The pb16 is a monster but I’m not impressed with its upper frequency output which is far more satisfying and usable in my setup than subharmonic. I have smaller speakers and need an articulate and powerful sub north of the 50hz range. They ALL port chuff fyi. They are air pumps and eventually you get port stall or vent turbulence. Some more than others. I’m glad this review articulated the phenomenon. Its a tough decision because these things are not fun to ship back. I just had to ship back a very disappointing sub myself and really want to get it right this time.
Very cool of you to disclose the port chuffing you experienced. It's a beast of a sub, but it has its limits. Good reviews discuss both pros and cons. Is it true that at 10hz, you actually need about 105-110db to actually feel it?
I’m never buying a large hdf cabinet sub again if i have to move it upstairs. I bearhugged my 100 pound arendal upstairs by myself but when i’m moving i’m too scared to do it in reverse lol. Even a washing machine is easier to move 😅 now the only reason i need to hire a moving company is for the sub. So for those that buy a sub like this, be aware
Youth man what is you electrical bill my guess expensive those huge subs and ans speaker's projector my electricity bill doubled after I used a projector
I read it as 150db instead of lb 🤣 Gotta love low bass. The room may not like it, but I do. Hehe. A pair of these would be awesome. I ALWAYS suggest more than 1 sub. Much more even room response. It takes a few subs to actually pressurize and entire room without cancellation in some areas
Unfortunately many believe the myth that sealed subs are faster than ported subs. It all comes down to driver design and amplifier. You can have sloppy sealed subs or ported subs. You can have fast, articulate bass from both sealed and ported subs.
@@Youthman 100% agree but there are also guys that think $10k cables sound better than $1000 cables that sound better than $100 cables and that is scientifically debunked! I'm a ported guy all the way unless you get into the $5000 range and then there are some stupid awesome sealed subs out there, Harbottle and Funk are one's that come to mind, their inhouse custom Ridge drivers are amazing
i had a feeling ti was going to chuff i mentioned that on your fb page. im glad youre an honest reviewers others might not have been honest about that. thank you
Thank you Matt. The first week of September, I will be flying up to Wisconsin to shoot 13 home theater tours in 4 days! So look for those to be on the channel in the coming weeks
So how would you compare with the monolith 15 vs cost of price and output? I've also purchased 2 of the 15's in the past 6 months because of your review. Great job on the videos!
Youthman, excellent review! Just what I expected! Question-- are you still going to do a head to head between the SVS-PB 3000 and Monolith THX Ultra 13"?
These subs are complete monsters, previously they were not sold overseas but now I see there is a EU website shipping across Europe… The 10 Hz in room response makes sense IMHO also with music…. There is stuff down there you can’t hear but clearly feel…. I WANT A FEW OF THESE TOO 😍 Maybe four 😜😱
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In your opinion, is this an "upgrade" to the Monolith 15? Seeing the 15 is on sale for $1149, is the 13 worth the $450 premium?
“Is it worth it” is always subjective. I try to provide enough information in my reviews so that you can determine whether or not it is worth the extra money
Did the good Lord provideth thee with this subwoofer bro? "Stay blessed"...(You gotta say your prayer before you listen).
Hello
I have four Monolith 12". A few tips for the previous Monolith versions that I found helpful. 1) During initial setup, set the sub gain/volume dial to THX (all the way to the left until it clicks). Then run your AVR calibration. This effort seems to 'calibrate' your sub (itself) to reference level. Yes, it doesn't make sense and seems weird, but it worked / helped when I thought I received bad subs at first due to low output. 2) Then afterwards, set you gain to your liking. I put all of my sub's gain dial at +6, run Audyssey which puts it at -11 db in the AVR, then I change it to -5 in my AVR. I believe it's better to use your subs amp power more than your AVR's preout power to help avoid clipping and distortion. I recommend keeping your AVR sub power/gain in the negative numbers no matter what. 3) Use a RCA splitter at the sub and plug in the left & right at the same time. It's adds a few db to overall output.
Great results for me in my HT. I'm curious if these tricks hold true for the newer versions...?
I have this new monolith 13 and was rather underwhelmed with the output. Quite a few owners complained about weak output. I tried both my subwoofer outs to feed the left and right input and that gave me quite a few db of gain back. It needs an rca splitter. This sub needs a hot signal to make it perform. I suppose you could use a bump box to boost the rca signal to the sub.
Rolls mb15 line converter box or art clean box pro.
Monoprice should tell their customers this thing needs 3-4 volts to perform as most avr's put out less than that. My svs runs quite well with the 1.5-2 volts from my receiver. Works ok with an rca splitter. Not sure how that affects the lfe performance.
@@honda12345678 you nailed it on the head! I tried literally everything, and the art clean box pro was the solution. Trying to artificially bump up the voltage via a minidsp and receiver was not working well. When I finally got that bump box my monolith 16s came to life! Now they actually outperform my old subs substantially with both movies and movies like they should.
Glad you found a solution. It’s been a few years since I have reviewed there’s subwoofers so maybe they have changed their amplifiers
@@Youthman yeah, they've updated them in the new matte black 13 and 16 inch subs, probably assuming the user is using their $4000 Monolith preamp or something equivalent rather than a $1500 receiver like me. Considering these subs retail for about $5k a pair, I guess they assume a more reasonable person would be using an equivalently priced receiver.
Does the 15 inch monolith you’ve reviewed have the same or less port noise than this? If any at all? I’m debating between the 15 and 13 right now.
Great review. Love seeing REW graphs in a review.
Glad to provide them
A video on this vs the 15 1000rms one would be awesome!
If you had to pick one, would you do the monolith 13, monolith 15 or pb3000?
Hey youth man, if you want a movie to demo with. The opening scene to Star Trek into darkness has a lot of good woofer work.
How does the monolith 13 compare to the svs pb16 and pb 3000?
That was a very good video, you continue to get better and better at this!
Port chuffing is just one reason I never liked ported subs but I had a similar problem in my old theater with an open baffle woofer system. By mounting woofers opposing each other I eliminated mechanical energy in the baffle but because I put them too close together, I got a similar effect to port chuffing. I won't make that mistake again.
This woofer seems a little small to have a lot of output at 10 Hz but of course the simple solution would be to just use several of them:-)
Thank you kindly
Good review. I liked the REW graphs. I have 2 Monolith 15” subs. They are a beast.
Great Video! Looks like another great sub fom Monolith! The thing is massive size wise though which is really not apparent in your video; not a problem in a dedicated space, but a hard sell for mixed use room.
Had to laugh at Joe and Tell's video on this sub when he asked his wife " can I put this in the living room" Her "Uh,... NO!" response was classic.
I ended up going the infinite baffle route to get the bass I want in our Great Room. My wife wasn't crazy about me cutting a big hole in the floor of our new house, but she could live with the 4 - 15's hanging from the ceiling of the unfinished basement and a unobtrusive floor grate in the room.
Yeah Jessica said no to subs in the living room a LONG time ago. She said that’s what my theater room is for 🤣
this is what i like abt ur videos,u just show everything as it is!!!!!! good explanation. thanks..
BTW hope ur daughter is doing well!!!!!
Hello,I have been using denon 6700 av receiver for svs PB 16 ultra now ,for an second subwoofer can I use Klipsch SPL 150
Best using the same subs. Or at least the same brand of subs.
Been watching your channel a while and have one of these on the way.
Been waiting for this! Great video
Thanks Zavier.
Lovely video, I like the development your reviews have had over the years:)
I would love if you could showcase a Dali sub K-14 F one day.
Many greetings from Denmark
Thank you kindly. I’m always striving to improve my content
I have gladen rs15 in a 3 times as big box for my cinema sound system.
It gives good bass!
SVS WHO !!!!! this is amazing.
I have the 10 in and is a beast I can imagine these new models wow
I would love to do this, but not sure i would know how to use the mini DSP. Wonder how my 2 subs would read.
Look up Home Theater Gamer. He recently did an extensive series on REW and miniDSP
@@Youthman thx. Will do. Keep up the awesome vids coming brother 👊🏼
I have dual Monolith M-215's, they're absolute beasts!
How would you say this compares to the SVS PB3000? Great Video. Thanks
I would have to go back and look at my measurements but I believe this will outperform it, especially in those lower frequencies. SVS typically roll their subs off quite quickly below 17Hz
The Monolith 15 out performed the svs 3000
On your JTR RS2, what setting on the crossover knob? Do you adjust the crossover knob after calibration? Thanks.
I recommend setting the crossover on the sub as high as it will go and then set the crossover in your AVR or processor. I have mine set to 60Hz
Little bit confused! So crossover frequency in AVR is 60hz to speakers and not the LPF for LFE🤔 (newbie)
No worries. Crossover for left, center, right in my Marantz processor is 60Hz.
The LFE setting in the Marantz is 120Hz (or highest it will go)
Crossover on the sub is set as high as it will go.
This video should help - ruclips.net/video/6Z0svzYSAEM/видео.html
Any interest in reviewing Rythmik subs? I just bought dual F18s and they have completely changed how I appreciate bass. You cannot believe the quality. You would love them.
I have heard good things about them. I reached out to them several times and never heard back from them
@@Youthman Damn them! Your channel would be an amazing platform. Don't quit bugging them. They will destroy your room
Yeah, a pair of F18s are on my short list of subs that I might get instead of Monolith 16s…they seem killer!
@@DustinFrancis It's crazy because the footprint is smaller than my Klipsch 15s I've had for a while. They are sleeper subs and I love it. No one assumes much from the looks.
@@BloopsnBleeps Yup, the footprint, price, and performance seems wonderful!
Well done👍@Youthman . We make a lot of home theaters in India & we really appreciate you for your passion & showing quality content to people😊 thats great to see this sub can as deep as 10hz & 150db & we got another genelec 7382a sub recently (video in our channel) which goes 15hz & 130db with 2500 watts class d amplifier. We wish you all the best from team USK Home Theatres Hyderabad India🙏
I purchased two of these about three weeks ago and one has pretty significant port chuffing regardless of how many ports are sealed. it varies in intensity based on frequency and volume. very difficult to isolate noise and sealing ports has minimal effect
Used sub sonic filter?
WOW SVS number #1 challenger?
Definitely seems to be their goal.
@@Youthman I promise from the way this one performs that 16 inch will be the SVS pb 16 ultra killer. I'd bet my house on it
I'm hoping Monolith eventually offers this driver in a true sealed design.
HI Youthman I need your advice, I have a SVS PB 3000, Am looking to get another Sub, I know someone selling a Svs 16 Ultra for 1500 which is a awesome deal, Do you think it's ok to run the PB 3000 with the 16 Ultra or would it be to much of a different?
In order to eliminate port chuffing with such a high output subwoofer you would need a port which is larger than the box.The port volume must be added to the required driver box volume. Everybody wants the biggest bass in the smallest box.It is not commercially viable to build ideal subwoofer enclosures and their size wouldn't be practical in a home theater.This sub uses a 13inch monster driver with massive cone travel and has greater output than the Monolith 15 inch, hence the larger amplifier.The 16 inch version will be a dragon.Owing to box size constraints the three ports in this sub is a severe compromised .Another problem is that the fat and wide surrounds needed to allow for extremely long cone travel tend to warp and slap around noisily when driven hard at very low frequencies and add to the port chuffing noise.
REW ! This is the review I’ve been waiting for! Looks to be a solid game changer in the 1200$+ range ! Thank you youthman !
Thank you Justin glad you enjoyed the video
This was a great review. Hit all the major points. I was curious about how many db your house curve is. Is yours generated from REW when you get the filters to EQ it? I just used a Low shelf filter 10dB which slopes it up from 80Hz.
Awesome review my friend as always. But now you just have to do the 16". I'm trying to see which is better. M215 or the 16" .
215 has more output than the upcoming 16
Same here what did you end up doing?
@@LichaelMewis I already had the Monolith 10" sub, so I just bought another Monolith 10" sub and called it a day. My wife is already over me for the 2 10"s, so just imagine if I had the 215 or the 16" sub. Wives you cant live with them or without them. 😄
@@jdub2354 good info. Thank you.
@@marlonhouston6685 lmao truth
Hey Youthman, any other recommendation on specific scenes for movies that can hit the 10hz/ that you can feel the bass?
I love your videos, and thanks for sharing your experience.
Thank you Howie glad you’re enjoying the content
Do you recall this level of port chuffing with the mono 15? Trying to figure out if this chuffs more than others, or if it was just noticeable because you disconnected your amplifier and only played the sub.
For whatever it's worth, I had 2 Mono 15's before buying my 18" Marty's from GSG. I only ever noticed the chuffing when you started reaching reference levels. I would say it depends on your listening habits. Me, I don't watch movies with that much volume, so it was non-existent for me. Hope that helps.
@@timanders3151 thanks for the input. I purchased two mono 15’s that arrived last week (one was defective and currently being shipped back for a replacement) and I leave them in THX mode to prevent hearing chuffing because I know to hit THX standards there is a limit on distortion. I hate chuffing 😂 and I really questioned whether or not to wait for these 13’s.
Tim is correct. As mentioned in the video, unless you like to listen to them near reference you won’t have issues with chuffing. My dual PB16’s would chuff at high volume as well. Unfortunately, a lot of ported subs will chuff during low frequencies and high volume.
@@ddub2195 this type of chuffing won't be heard in regular listening. All ported subs will chuffed if driven hard enough it just is what it is. But nobody will ususlly ever drive the whole soundtrack and the subs to reference level. That's ear damaging loud. Odds are very high you'll never experience it in real world use at your normal listening levels
@@danzilla31stompinontokyo36 I disagree. My Marty's with Ultimax 18-22's, SPA1000 plates do 116db at 20hz with no chuff. But they are 22" slot ported enclosures. You can build them with DSP for WAY less than the Mono 13", as well.
Thanks for the review Youthman
Hey Youthman. Enjoying your content! Suggestion box item: Create a video describing your experience with Acoustically Transparent screens and how you arrived at your choice. The subject is confusing with with so many people expressing cautions regarding sound degradation and/or visual issues, especially if sitting close. How has your experience been? Is your screen a keeper, or have you thought about replacing it with something new?
hi, slightly off topic, many people will calibrate for reference as 75db/85db at 0db master volume, generally 105db is a peak. Looks like you calibrated for 75db at -20/-30db avr master volume. Thats why your graph shows upto 105db when you set master volume at 0db. I guess its either way you can calibrate it is end users choice as far as it is mathematically correct.
Awesome review, the 13" seems like a beast. However, the 15" is on sale for $1,149.99, which is a full $450 less.
Which do you think is the better value? The 13" or the 15"?
Would you prefer to use dual 13" or dual 15"?
This isn't really answering your question, but ill tell you, dual 15s JAM! I have a couple, and am VERY happy with them. For $1150....you better pull the trigger.
Correct me if I'm wrong but the monolith 13 is 2000 watts but the 15 inch is only 1000 watts.
Retired at 49 More power doesn't necessarily mean it'll be louder however the Monolith 13" is only 2- 3 decibels quieter than the SVS PB16 (which has much more power) specifically in clean output. That's right it's comparable to the 16" subwoofer SVS released which should tell you it's no slouch so it definitely should surpass the Monolith 15.
@@number1pappy You are right. One thing that surprised me was, he said that 13 was port chuffing. I've run these 15s HARD, and they WILL NOT port chuff, nor will they distort. I wish I could demo a pair of these 13s against my 15s. Something tells me, even with less power, these 15s might jam better.
@@maincharacter2677 There is a Monolith 16" coming in a couple of months
Great video as always. My wife is so not happy I watched this review. lol she immediately said nope nope nope when i told her the size and weight. You're getting me in trouble sir hahaha
Unfortunately I get blamed quite a lot. It’s all good, I’m glad to take the fall for you guys LOL
Sir.. can u please tell me the best placement for a side firing subwoofer
Great video. Would you get 1 of this or 2 PB-1000 Pro? My home theater is set up in basement family room about 1000 sq feet in size. Thanks in advance.
Great review. Think my room may be a bit small for something like that. Planning on a pair of SVS SB2000s. See what that does for the neighbors.
@@happydogg312 I went with PB2000s also. Should be believers next week.
@@happydogg312 Just set up the PB 2000s. Played the intro to Live, Die, Repeat several times. The neighbor came over the next day and said he could feel the bass in his house. They are really amazing subs. These things took my system to a whole new level!! The tunnel gunfight scene in John Wick 2 and all of Godzilla: King of the Monsters is crazy. These replaced a single 15" Velodyne sub, which was good for its day, but holy S%$T these are awesome. You were right, I am grinning ear to ear watching movies and listening to music.
@@happydogg312 I went for dual sb-2000 also in my small HT room. I measured them 107db@20Hz. That is more than Youthman measured the Monolith 13 in his (large) room. Enough to shake the seats and your body. It always depends…
Hey buddy do you know what Klipsch center channel speaker match the Klipsch rp-280 speakers I think it is the Klipsch rp-440c but I'm not sure. Can you help me out.
Hey Denver. I’m not Sure What Center, Channel went with that particular model. I would reach out to Klipsch they will be able to tell you
@@Youthman ok thanks buddy appreciate it.
Hi Youthman I recently bought 2 Klipsch SPL 120 subwoofers, what position should I have the gain control. I normally watch movies at - 30 db.
Would you recommend one of these or 2 of the monolith 12 thx? Price would be a little less for the 12's. Also, if I only have a 15a circuit available, would that be enough for the 2000 watt peak amp? I can use 2 outlets on different 15a circuits also running Denon 4500 receiver, rv etc.
It's better to have two subs rather than one however if you plan on getting second sub later get the 13" and buy second 13" later
@youthman would you recommend this or getting 2 of the 1000watt 15's. Im torn on which will sound better
Hi, i want to sell my current speakers and receivers to upgrade to new and improved system. I don’t want to compromise on the price I get, as everything is in very good sate. What is my best option?
The port chuffing noises are not happening necessary because the ports are too small. They happen because of their design. They're too round and the air tries to escape passing through the diameter of the hole meeting at the same time at the exit. Yamaha has solved this problem with their twisted flare port design. Go check it out in case you haven't seen it.
Another thing, the human hearing is not limited down to 20 hz, 20 is just a number that people keep regurgitating without thinking and testing anything. In lab conditions we can hear as low as 12 hz. If you can't hear that it means there might be something wrong with your hearing. I for instance can tell what frequency is played with almost perfect precision from 12 hz up to 50 hz in a blind test.
It's not a hard fact that no human can hear below 20Hz, but according to the following medical resources, the average could be a few dB lower (15Hz - 17Hz).
www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK10924/
www.cochlea.org/en/hear/human-auditory-range
I'm not finding any resource that says humans can hear down to 12Hz. I would be happy to check out the lab results you are referring to so feel free to quote your source. Some people have the ability to determine frequency or notes by hearing. Charlie Puth comes to mind as he has perfect pitch. But to say someone's hearing is wrong if they can't hear down to 12Hz is silly and incorrect.
If you are able to determine any frequency between 12Hz and 50Hz in a blind test, I would love to see that on video. Feel free to email me a link to it at michael@youthmanreviews.com.
What spl meter do you recommend? On Amazon.
Great video! I’m guessing my room would like it best with two ports plugged…it SHOULD be cleaner sounding too. I gotta imagine in your room adding another would get rid of any chuffing because they wouldn’t have to be working as hard. Holding out until the 16 is released for sure!
Correct. Dual subs would give you more headroom and allow you to run them lower and still get the same output.
@@Youthman I know you don’t always get to pick what you are sent, but companies really should provide you with dual subs to review. It would be even more “real works scenario” and it would always be beneficial for you and them when it came to reviewing them (minus dealing with the weight of course.)
I purchased two of these brutes the other day and will update this post if I noticed any chuffing. Regards
I’m a big fan of running dual subs but there are plenty of people that do not run duals so although that would be beneficial for some, it would not be for others.
Not to mention that’s double the cost of shipping both ways for the brand and that means I have not one 150lb monster to move around, but two. Not to mention calibrating dual subs.
Keep in mind that plugging the ports lowers the efficiency and, in turn, output. It also will effect tuning frequency.
But yes, play around and find what sounds best.
So how does the Monoprice Ultra 13 stack up against the SVS PB-3000? Have you done a head to head comparison? Then higher up is the PB-4000 from SVS that my guess would outperform based on specs. Whats your take?
Pb4000 is virtually identical. But it's certainly not identical in piece £1000 more
@@billybobby7607 so would this Monoprice and the pb3000 be most comparable in performance then. Sounds like the pb4000 would not be worth the $1000 extra
@@Espiritiv look at Mr wolf thread on avforums
Serious honest question. Should i get this, or 2 15in monoliths that are on sale. Which setup would sound best. Cant afford 2 13 monos
Definitely 2 15in
What do you prefer Monolith 13 or Arendal 1723 2V?
How does compare to the JTR RS2 Michael? Not saying this jokingly, just interested in common sound characteristics
Ported subs have a more abrupt sound to them. Some describe them as violent bass. These are not near the level of JTR. The RS2 are flat to 5Hz and I’ve had them as high as 115dB at 5Hz which is EXTREMELY difficult to do.
@@Youthman yeah I get that. I was referring to the sound signature. I am sure you are familiar with the JTR sound signature both for their ported and sealed. I found the PB16 to have s similar signature with it’s thickish bass.
The RS2’s dig down to 5Hz but are super smooth and refined, yet with gobs of output. You get plenty of tactile bass but it’s definitely different than ported subs.
How do you keep your neighbors from complaining about all the bass?
My neighbors love it.
Invite them over for movie nights…
I don’t like one of my neighbors. So I don’t care
How did it compare to their 15 down in the lower frequencies Youthman?
I would have to go back and look at previous measurements
@@Youthman If you have the time I would appreciate it. Just trying to compare the 2. Like 30hz and below...
Here is the video with measurements. You can’t really compare the Monolith 13 with the measurements taking in this video because the subwoofer was not in the exact same place and the microphone was not in the exact same place. But it still should give you a good idea of what both of them are capable of.
ruclips.net/video/tOkcKe3DUD0/видео.html
@@Youthman thank you!
That quite place scene is my favorite to test a sub! 🤤
There are several scenes that will make you jump if you have quality subs lol
@@Youthman when she screams in the tub is the one. But that whole movie is loaded with LFE!
Yes that was the same scene I referred to. Tons of LFE throughout the movie
@@Youthman what chapter is this scene you are referring to? I have it this 4K movie and I want to recheck it out. Thanks
It’s probably around the eighth scene when you go through the chapters. Just look for the scene where she’s in the bathtub
I am having so much trouble getting my dual monolith 16s to have adequate output. Recalibrated, tried y splitters and rca to XLR, experimented with almost every sub setting, but I still cannot get these subs to perform as expected. Any ideas? Seems to be a rampant issue, but all the forums are open-ended with no final responses about fixes
Do you have a UMIK-1 and REW to measure the frequency response? Your subs could be fighting against each other and cancelling out certain frequencies. If so, it has zero to do with the sub and everything to do with the acoustics and placement of the subs.
One thing to try is turning off only one sub. Do you get good bass output then? Is so, that’s another confirmation it’s acoustics and not the subs.
@@Youthman I’ve taken a bunch of measurements with REW and confirmed cancellation isn’t occurring,m. Each monoliths SPL is just way under what it should be. My two worse Klipsch SPL-150s are providing more output at every frequency range right now
Something definitely is not right as the Monolith subs I have reviewed have more output and lower extension than Klipsch subs.
@@Youthman what did you use as the preamp and what type of connection? Apparently these things need a lot of signal. I’ve improve it by making out minidsp monolith gains at +12 and adding an additional +5 in the AVR sub trim. Sound improves even further when I turn the physical gain knobs from 50% to 75%, but now I’m worried about blowing the drivers with all of this signal input
I don’t recall what AVR or processor I had in at the time of this review. If you are having issues, I would recommend reaching out to Monolith tech support so they can help you troubleshoot it.
If you have two of these or even the two 16’s, would you pick those over JTR or is JTR just another league of its own. I’m literally torn between the two right now.
I have 2 M&K subwoofers in my home theater and I am happy about their performances, then I ordered a JTR RS2 7 months ago and I just received it couple months ago.
I added it to my home theater and WOW, it's big, big improvement in the bass region, the huge energy from the RS2 is unbelievable, it shaked my whole house, I have to turn it down in respect of my neighbors.
I am super happy with the RS2 and I am saving money to buy another one in the future.
Nice video. Now if we can get Monoprice to make a minidsp that would be great.
Yeah self contained like svs eq-1. I don't fancy using pc rew etc
Another great test scene is the very opening of LIVE DIE REPEAT with Tom Cruise. I’m sure you’ve heard that. My room is only 11x13 & I have two Hsu VTF-2 MK5’s, & on that scene my room vibrates and my kitchen door does as well, which is about 15-20’ away. - In Your room, with your JTR Subs, you might break something. lol
I’m not a fan of the intro of EOT. Unfortunately there’s nothing natural or realistic about listening to sine waves at 4 different frequencies. I personally would rather demo scenes from movies.
Well my dual vtf3 mk5 hsu subs would chuffed like crazy during that intro scene. My current dual pb3000 subs have zero perceptible chuffing for that intro. But... like youthman stated, that intro scene is not indicative of a subs performance. My old HSU setup actually edged out my pb3000s in tactile response and thump in the chest department. I do love how my svs subs can "dissapear" into the soundtrack however. Pros and cons to every sub. That said, the Mono 15" was probably my favorite of all the subs I've tried. Amazing chest thump and it was still able to "dissapear"
Ahhhhmmm where is the volume dial on your sub?
Calibrated to reference was around 1/2 gain. Later I bumped it up to 3/4 just to see what it could do.
@@Youthman where do you normally listen at?
As in volume on my processor? Usually watch movies around -15dB.
Thanks for a great review. Would this be an upgrade from my HSU vtf3mk5?
You'll get more output and it's rated to go a bit lower. 2000w vs 600w But the monolith is double the price. I'd take 2 vtfmk5s over this easily.
Hi for my setup:
Denon AVR-4500H (125 watts at 8 ohm 2ch driven)
Klipsch Rp 280fs (150W)
Klipsch Rp 450c ( 150W )
Klipsch Rp 160m ( 100W )
Klipsch r-112sw
SVS Prime elevation ( 20 - 150 W )
I was wondering if I need an external amp for my setup, if so which one would you recommend.
Why not the 250s for surrounds instead of 160m?
@@lawrence09151 since its for my surrounds and the other one is dolby atmos height
Similiar to me, including the r-112sw.......i feel i need bigger
Depends on what volume level you listen at. Lets say you listen at -30db volume and never any higher, you might only be pulling a couple watts per speaker. Klipsch in general are higher sensitivity speakers even after you account for their inflated sensitivity numbers (probably safe to say you could subtract 6db from their numbers). However alternatively lets say you listen at -10db or -5db you might be taxing your AVR a lot more. I want to say that the x4500h is doing 70% of its 2ch number with 5 ch driven and even less with all channels driven so in this case you could be in an amplifier limited scenario. Also worth mentioning bass is hard to generate and so if you're doing stuff such as running your fronts as large or setting them to small with 40hz xo because they "play" down to 32hz at -3db you're robbing your system of better sound and wasting amplifier power on stuff that the subwoofer can do better. At a minimum you want all your channels at 80hz including your towers. Assuming you don't already getting a second r-112sw or the successor SPL120 or if your willing to jump brands (subs don't have audible timbre so its ok to mix and match) would be a greater impact on overall sound quality especially since that AVR actually has independent subwoofer outputs. Might be worth looking into REW + a UMIK-1 and also that Denon can do 11 channels so if you did get a 2 channel amp you can do 7.2.4 with that AVR.
@@TylerStout So your saying that it would be just fine without the external amp.
I can’t afford 2 of them otherwise I’d pencil this in for Black Friday…
Just get the 12 in or the 15
Get two Mono 15"s. I have 2 Mono 12"s in a 24/14 - 2,200sqft acoustically treated room. Bass is perfect but I wish I had a bit more power in reserve for ultra low end. Wish I had put the extra $600 up for 2 15".
But I'm going to add 1 "15 to round out the low end.
But monoprice usually gives you a discount of $100-150 bucks when you buy 2 subs at full price. Plus black Friday I saved $100 per sub.
Why, when you look at mono price scale on what it can do, it show that it drops really fast after 20 htz just like a SVS. But you show that it hits really hard after 20 htz.
Do t forget room gain
Can you do a review of the monolith 460T-THX tower speakers
Thank you for the recommendation. I currently do not have plans to review the 460T
Great information. I think I missed your explanation of why there was such a large drop in out put around 50hz on all the charts you presented. Was this noticeable when speakers are set at the suggested 80hz crossover point? Sorry if you’ve had to repeat yourself and thanks for the video.
It's his room causing that, not the sub
No worries. Yes the null is a result of the acoustics in my room. I’m installing (4) GIK bass traps today to see if it will help. It happens with every subwoofer I have reviewed and pretty much anywhere I place a sub in my room, I get a pretty significant null somewhere between 30 and 50 Hz.
This was measured with only the sub so changing the crossover point would not effect how the sub measures in my room.
@@Youthman Do you like DIY solutions? There are sound absorbing foams for studios you can stick to the walls, or build a trap(s) with acoustastuff or polyfill etc.
I do not do much DIY since Im not very “handy” but also I do not have the time or tolls needed to DIY. I’m working with GIK to treat my room.
How about a review of the Starke SW15 subwoofer.
@YOUTHMAN I wonder what causes that suckout at 50 hz in your room, correcting that should do more than a better sub. Maybe try moving the subs to the back of the room or 1/4 placement? I'm sure you've done the crawl but 50 hz is a super important range for movies, gunshots and chest thumping bass, worth looking into for sure, good luck friend!
If you look at my room, I simply do not have many options for sub placement. If you look back at any video where I took REW measurements, they all have it. I’m hoping the new bass traps from GIK will help that but I’m not sure.
With dual subs, I can get rid of the null. My dual JTR are flat to 5Hz
@@Youthman I get similar nulls (around 50 & 90) with my four 12" monoliths using minidsp, REW, and Audyssey calibration. Then I add about 5' to sub distance after calibration and the nulls disappear. In my case, it's an initial time alignment & crossover issue caused by Audyssey. Have you tried playing with the sub distance to correct this problem?
Can you review the new BIC Acoustech Elite Series PL-300 sub?
Thank you for the recommendation but I currently do not have any plans to review BIC subs.
damn that looks baddasssss! great results. 👌
Very impressive sub
Good day fine sir. I have 2 Polk 12s HTS and looking for a little more. I'm in Canada and have tough time finding Monolith up here. I feel 2 15s would be perfect for my room. If you know anyone up here who's stocks it and can lead me to them that would be sweet. Thanks for your videos. My theater room is getting better because of your content. Thanks.
How does it compare to the PB-3000?
The PB3000 was nice but this easily outperforms it. It likely outperforms the PB4000 as well.
@@Youthman if you had the opportunity to purchase the pb-4000 or the monolith 13, which one would you purchase and why?
I have not reviewed the PB 4000 so I can’t tell you which I would prefer. SVS has the app. Monolith has the lower bass extension.
I’m not sure which has more output.
@@Youthman base on CEA2010 review… the pb-3000 sounds almost the same as the pb-4000. However the 4000 offers a little more low end extension. So how about between the 3000 and the monolith 13?
@@Youthman the Monolith has more then extension. It has massive midbass over the 3000 and especially the 4000. It smashes the pb 3000 and outperforms the 4000 quite handily in both lower and upper extension
Hey youthman review the starke sound sw 15 please 😁
0 db is maximum on my receiver,THX reference is usually around -20 db.
When calibrated, 0dB is Reference. That’s the whole purpose of using a Relative Volume scale (Relate to Reference). 0dB shouldn’t be the maximum of your AVR unless you set a limited in the setup menu.
Hello first off I want to start by saying excellent video. I've been following you for a while and I like and trust your reviews. So how would this sub compare to the SVS PB16? I'm in the process of getting a new sub. Was looking towards the SVS but now Monolith has dropped this so now I'm debating between those two subs.
Thank you kindly. I would have to go back and look at my previous measurements of the PB16’s to see how it compares. Both are incredible subs. If I were you, I would hold off to see some reviews on the model with 16 that will be coming out in October. I believe it will be indirect competition with the PB16.
The Monolith 13 is competing against the PB3000 and PB4000.
Thank you very much. I can actually say you are one of the few RUclipsrs that ask people to leave comments and then you actually respond back. God bless
I do my best. Unfortunately I cannot get to every question and comment with 80,000 subscribers. That’s one reason I created Patreon as I answer every question there. Thank you kindly and God bless as well
@@kelvinholland7014 hey bro audioholics did reviews on this sub and the SVS PB 16 ultra. For $900 less this sub holds up to the PB 16 which only outperforms it In the deep bass from around 16 to 20 hz. But not by too much. At 25hz they are equal and after 50 or 60hz this sub destroys the PB 16 in upper bass. SVS has they're Bill of rights and the app control but this sub almost matches it in performance for 900 less. I want to wait until the Monolith 16 comes out. I have a large room and think I'll need the headroom otherwise I'd snatch this up in a heartbeat. Best of luck on whatever you decide to purchase!!!!
This thing cranks at the higher frequencies according to audioholics. I was in the same boat but decided to go with the monolith. The pb16 is a monster but I’m not impressed with its upper frequency output which is far more satisfying and usable in my setup than subharmonic. I have smaller speakers and need an articulate and powerful sub north of the 50hz range.
They ALL port chuff fyi. They are air pumps and eventually you get port stall or vent turbulence. Some more than others. I’m glad this review articulated the phenomenon.
Its a tough decision because these things are not fun to ship back. I just had to ship back a very disappointing sub myself and really want to get it right this time.
Very cool of you to disclose the port chuffing you experienced. It's a beast of a sub, but it has its limits. Good reviews discuss both pros and cons. Is it true that at 10hz, you actually need about 105-110db to actually feel it?
Thank you. I’m not sure about the 105dB to feel 10Hz. I’ve never tested it myself.
I’m never buying a large hdf cabinet sub again if i have to move it upstairs. I bearhugged my 100 pound arendal upstairs by myself but when i’m moving i’m too scared to do it in reverse lol. Even a washing machine is easier to move 😅 now the only reason i need to hire a moving company is for the sub. So for those that buy a sub like this, be aware
Youth man what is you electrical bill my guess expensive those huge subs and ans speaker's projector my electricity bill doubled after I used a projector
I read it as 150db instead of lb 🤣 Gotta love low bass. The room may not like it, but I do. Hehe.
A pair of these would be awesome.
I ALWAYS suggest more than 1 sub. Much more even room response. It takes a few subs to actually pressurize and entire room without cancellation in some areas
I have an svs pb-1000 is it an bad idea to pair it up with monolith THX 10?
No issues pairing two ported subs from different manufacturers.
@@Youthman Great! Thanks for the fast reply!
I think some audiophiles like to plug the ports to get faster bass response for listening to music. I'm not that guy but some definitely are!
Unfortunately many believe the myth that sealed subs are faster than ported subs. It all comes down to driver design and amplifier. You can have sloppy sealed subs or ported subs. You can have fast, articulate bass from both sealed and ported subs.
@@Youthman 100% agree but there are also guys that think $10k cables sound better than $1000 cables that sound better than $100 cables and that is scientifically debunked!
I'm a ported guy all the way unless you get into the $5000 range and then there are some stupid awesome sealed subs out there, Harbottle and Funk are one's that come to mind, their inhouse custom Ridge drivers are amazing
Got this sub and not even 1 month after the red light behind was just flashing.... this mean already dead, they told me this happen a lot. .
i had a feeling ti was going to chuff i mentioned that on your fb page. im glad youre an honest reviewers others might not have been honest about that. thank you
Thing looks like a beast, makes you wonder what kind of damage the 16" model could do whether that's to your room or your back haha 😂.
Youthman, please tell me you have now watched Interstellar? The black hole scene has good LFE.
I experienced it for the first time this weekend when touring 13 home theaters. It was indeed insane!
You are such a cool dude - love your content and the honesty in your reviews. Do some more theater tours!!
Thank you Matt. The first week of September, I will be flying up to Wisconsin to shoot 13 home theater tours in 4 days! So look for those to be on the channel in the coming weeks
Great review! Objective data with subjective opinion.
Thank you kindly
Hey youthman, I like to demo the movie 2014s unbroken ww2 movie ... unreal intro ! Great atmos track.
Thicc Bass ... This thing is awesome!!
So how would you compare with the monolith 15 vs cost of price and output?
I've also purchased 2 of the 15's in the past 6 months because of your review. Great job on the videos!
The 13" has roughly 3db higher output
Youthman, excellent review! Just what I expected! Question-- are you still going to do a head to head between the SVS-PB 3000 and Monolith THX Ultra 13"?
Thank you. The PB3000 was returned to SVS after the review period so unfortunately I will not be doing a direct comparison video.
These subs are complete monsters, previously they were not sold overseas but now I see there is a EU website shipping across Europe…
The 10 Hz in room response makes sense IMHO also with music…. There is stuff down there you can’t hear but clearly feel….
I WANT A FEW OF THESE TOO 😍
Maybe four 😜😱
I mean is anybody going to do a review on the 16in
I probably will not but we shall see.
Audioholics did a full review on the 13 and also thr 16in. They should be releasing the review for thr 16 soon
Yeah that 10Hz is impressive!
u shouldn’t hear chuffing at extreme volumes. i would assume the spl would be louder than a chuff, 😆
That’s what I shared in the video. The only time it was audible was when I was taking measurements.
THICC BASS - Monolithic Style ... This thing looks monstrous!!
🤣🤣🤣ah yeah!
hello from boston
Hi!
Since making this they increased the price to $2,300 retail
That can be said for almost every review I’ve made over the past 4 years.