Is Capping Cables a Waste of time and money?! - Electrician
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
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This video is for entertainment purposes only and is in no way intended as a guide or 'how to'.
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The old school metal capping saved my bacon when I was drilling a hole to put up a shelf. From experience think it’s a good safety feature.
but is its all rcbo now is it the same as the capping?
@@eddjordan2399 metal capping gives you an early indicator that you're drilling somewhere you shouldn't be. So you can stop drilling _before_ you damage the cable. An RCBO will only help _after_ you've damaged the cable, so the RCBO tripping is more of a last resort while metal capping (safeplates on drilled joists, warning tape over buried ducts, etc) is more of a preventative measure.
Not saying it is a requirement, just saying I can see why some people like to see it.
Ha, were you drilling with an old hand drill?
Decent sds and capping isn’t going to save your bacon.
What capping is good for!!! It’s metal and so is good for identifying hidden/non std cable runs using a stud/metal finder.
@@Jaymo_the_monkey old masonry bit and combi - so little chance going through metal capping. SDS with multi-purpose bit and I’d have prob gone through, but not standard DIY kit. Metal capping might be redundant with new RCBO installs, but still nice to have that extra layer of protection.
@@Jaymo_the_monkey I don't know about the original poster, but personally if I need to drill anywhere "risky" I'll try and go through the plaster/plasterboard gently before getting the SDS out for any block/brick. Metal capping would help in that case because I'd feel the metal while doing the initial gentle drilling (sometimes I even do the gentle part by hand, e.g. with a blunt screwdriver)
I always use metal 1” sheathing on a new install like this one. However, I wouldn’t run the cables within the prescribed zones (150mm) at high level around the room, I would run them surface at floor level against the wall surface mounted behind the rear legs of the kitchen units then come up to the sockets/FCU’s flush mounted behind sheathing.
I’d also never run cables across the top of the patio door as it is likely to be damaged by curtain poles or blinds being installed. I’d install a 20mm plastic conduit across the floor pre insulation and screed and drop the ring into that. Quick, simple and less chance of damage going forward. Glue the conduit to stop damage to cables by the chemicals in the floor screed.
Glad this is been discussed, I've already posted my opinion on capping over cables behind dot and dab plasterboard, So for those who insist it's right or wouldn't do it any other way, If a customer asked for a socket say 1.5 mtrs away from an existing socket and you can fish a wire behind the plasterboard within the safe zone, Would you destroy the decorated wall to fit some pointless capping or tube ?
_If it fits_ (and it didn't mean causing extra damage) I'd _consider_ using oval tube. But only because it tends to do a good job of keeping fished cables straight (and therefore within zones).
Oval isn't usually too bad to fish through a wall, especially if you pre-sleeve it over the cable beforehand and get the right size so it isn't significantly bigger than just the cable.
Again, not saying it's necessary. But it can be a nice touch. I definitely prefer having some method of support, whether it's clips, holes in noggins, tube or capping. Happy to go with whatever I think is easiest at the time, and I won't lose any sleep if none of them are practical either.
You can usually slide some oval capping behind a dabbed wall this also makes it easer to push your t&e through!!
Dot & Dab, total waste of time. Wet plaster still needs doing. That's just my opinion. I've never bothered with PVC capping, may aswell run a layer of duct tape down the cables
Not really, depends on the project. A true drywall system means less mess and a quick finish. Even board and skim is dry and decorated quicker than waiting for traditional plaster coat to dry. Use capping to protect the first fix installation from reasonably foreseeable damage that may be caused before the finshed wall surface is completed.
I lived in a new build house that was plaster board attached to battens on walls. No plastering on top at all. It was just emulsioned.
No issues at all. Yes, it dents easy, but easy to repair.
Personally, I'd never bother skim coating plasterboard.
The same as you Nick, I tend to use oval conduit. It gives reasonable protection against a plastering trowel and also often gives the opportunity to remove/replace a cable for repairs/alterations. With switch drops, I use a bigger conduit than required so it's easier to wire up future additional lights without having to re-chase and re-plaster.
Another quality job in progress. Maybe would be an idea if a plan was left with customers showing the routes of all cabling. Could be part of a new regulation, even showing route of other services Gas, plumbing ...
Totally unnecessary
@@JorgeAMG187 What is unnecessary ?
@@tazdevil875 Plan fpr cable routes
@@JorgeAMG187 Strange that you feel something that would make an environment safer or handier for future to know where cables/pipes run underflooring is unnecessary. But you are, like everyone, entitled to your own view :-)
@@tazdevil875 As a homeowner, I think its a great idea.... and next time a tradesman calls to me... so will HE !! 😏
Capping was required when the wall was plastered with cement it stops the lime attacking the cable last ime I had to use it for that reason was early nineties it wasn't ever considered as mechanical protection.
There is no lime inside the cement...if you mean or want to say lye that's another thing..
@@dkaloupis75 If you add hydrated lime into a cement-based mixture it improves plasticity and workability it's added when using it to plaster walls.
@@brianwoodruff4891 Hi Mr. Clouseau. If you want to improve plasticity and avoid the use of lime, you can add febmix concentrated and job done. By the way my dad and I haven't encounter any issues bye using lime or febmix for the past 55 years at any wiring.
@@dkaloupis75 Oh
I do my drop to the first socket then to low level bring my cables out of the wall. Install all my back boxes at the level thats required and 20mm round condit going down to just below worktop height. then when it is plastered run surface trunking in the service area at the back of the cupboards and install the cables.. This avoids cables being damaged by the kitchen fitters
As regards to the zones in the kitchen. What I've done in the past in that situation is if its all going to be behind units. Run a 2x2 pvc trunking low level. Drill a 20mm hole at the top and clip the cable up to the point needed. Then the dot and dab boards will sit on the trunking no cables on show and it leave a good finish.
Same here mate good method
I use oval conduit then in future you can pull down a new cable. For making good around boxes if fixings are poor I have started using expanding foam to go just around the box, don’t budge after that.
When it is going to be dot and dapped ,use the fire clips for mini trunking as once fixed it will not come out, unlike t/e clips ,you can run cables side by side in clips
they are rock solid mate
When walls are to be dot and dabbed, you should be taking into consideration how long those cables are going to be left vulnerable to damage in the meantime. Thats all part of selecting the right installation method. Oval tube is much the same installation timeframe as clipping, plus you've less worries on subsequent damage before its boarded out.
Pvc capping can be useful when the wall is nearly impossible to clip onto time saving wise.
If installed correctly yes. Most of the time it's not installed butt up to box or an inch past ceiling board into joist space making it useless for pulling thru for future additions without damaging decor. Granted plastic won't stop a drill bit or a picture hook for that matter but it makes a good 1st fix and when used in conjunction with a wall chaser other trades will know your a cut above the rest.
"the timeline of the job changed" - absolutely going to remember this!
Remember back in the late 1980s, firstime I encountered dot and dab boarding walls. After I already first fixed a kitchen extension similar to what you have, an bemused customer told me unless you get your electrician back to remove that capping I ain't plasterboardin your kitchen, So I haven't covered them behind plasterboard since. No need to, That plasterboard adhesive must be expensive
am I right in thinking you dont NEED an isolator on, say, a cooker supply, as long as its circuit can be isolated at the CU?
In Northern Ireland, 98% of 1st fix jobs are tracked into wall in 20mm conduit and plastered over
Aye if ye pulled this sorta thing clipping to block ye wouldn't get another job.lol
It seems a bit silly to me to go to those lengths to have a ring instead of a couple of radials, but I'm probably missing a few somethings.
So if you install a couple of radials in 2.5mm CSA cable then you’ll have to protect them at the front end with 20amp MCB’s/RCBO’s. That’s not ideal in a kitchen with several heavy loads possibly present, i.e kettle, toaster, hot tap, coffee machines, dishwashers etc. switch on 2 of those type of appliances and bang you’re above the 20amp draw allowed.
You could upgrade to 4mm CSA radials and then update to 32amp protection (same as a ring) but then you’ll struggle to get two cables into the terminals on many types of sockets and FCU’s etc. So in my opinion the ring circuit fed with 2.5mm CSA is the best option.
@@jasonparker1971 I do a lot of social housing and a lot of clients spec a 4mm radial for kitchens and it works fine to be honest or tho not tried it with MK accessories which I honestly don't like anyway
I went the 4mm route for a kitchen I did 10 years or so back - just had an EICR done and the “electrician” that via the agents I got in (I rent out the property) is adamant “4mm is only rated at 20’amps” even when in an email I’d quoted the relevant tables from the regs.
!!!! He Insisted I changed the rcbo from 32 to 20!!!! I’m going to issue myself a minor works cert to put it back again afterwards. Ridiculous. I’ll never let the agents employ his firm again. It’s made me realise EICRS aren’t worth the paper they’re written on.
Great video,capping you buy now is like cardboard, doesn't stop anything , definitely this method is quicker if you want to get jobs done,nice to see what options you are showing to viewers
Adam needs more credit , you guys are wicked working together !!
Don't be like Slep and Kovak, always instal capping, especially if you're working in Betty Crockers house, that place is a death trap
😂and dont take weeks to rewire domestics or you'll go bust, and end up dicking around with lamposts instead!
great vid 👍🏼 I like the fact that, even if no one can see it, it still should be neat. Pride in your work is key, good job
Hi nick good video...still can't understand why you did not drop the sockets and cooker wiring behind the kitchen units and cam up to each point.. maybe I missed something with kitchen plan?
Recently I've come across ash blocks that are hollow, and disintegrate when you chisel . Getting fixings for the back box is horrendous. Have you any clever ideas to keep boxes in line and get solid fixing. I've tried sticks like shit but its too fluid
9.50 you said could strip the celotex out and drill all the roof joists ? As I understand you drill any roof joists trusses etc ,you weaken the structure of the roof ,it's designed size wise to carry only the weight of the roof and never to be drilled (weakened)?
Capping was only really used to stop the lime from eating away at the pvc. Which was used in old plaster
I think it was actually to stop the lime eating away at VIR's Vulcanised Indian rubber which was used before PVC at least that is what my boss told me when I was an apprentice 30 odd years ago
I can’t be arsed to comment
fair comment
Can't be arsed to comment on your comment to be honest...
As a few have already mentioned I definitely recommend capping or conduit as we never know what damage dot and dab adhesive, bonding, cement etc does to a cable in the long run
Haven't you ever stripped out an old property? Cables buried in walls, bonding, plaster etc survive better than those in free air. I think it's due to the oxidising.
@@shanginadildo yes but not in cement chemical reaction
@@ImranKhan-cf8gs having just striped out a property with vulcanised rubber, I can confidently say that the cables buried in walls faired much better than the cables running through the joists. Burying cables in walls almost gives the cables an extra layer of protection, not only that they don't have to fight the reaction of air.
Old plaster, bonding etc yes true it’s proven cables were fine however a lot more chemicals etc in building materials nowadays eg chemicals to make filler go off quicker etc who knows what damage they can do to a cable if any, for me it’s a case of just trying to eliminate any potential issues.
Modern day drill will go through either methods galve or plastic without you noticing the capping... I use galve by default just looks like made the extra effort for the customer give a bit of protection / plastics a waste of time clipping direct no issues just speedy/chuck in budget way (ok for Friday's 🤣)
So when I was an apprentice (qualified 2.5 years now) I had it bashed into me that you shouldn’t run cables at a right angle horizontally half way up a zone like how you’ve done the cooker hood nick! I done it on a first fix when I first started as an apprentice on an oven from the iso in a kitchen and the guy I worked with was like that’s wrong you can’t do it like that, so made me do it again & go right up to the ceiling & vertically down. I’ve done it like that ever since never thought nothing of it again.
Any idea who’s right, I’m not picking nick. just a general question for you or anyone! Thanks
It's in the zone horizontal to the cooker hood outlet and the vertical socket drop. No problem.
The way your doing it is the proper way . . Although the regs have changed some time ago and you can run cables horizontally like that ,remember most builders , carpenters etc have had it drummed into them that cables should run vertically. Hence we see more and more cables being drilled though these days.. Don’t forget the regs are the minimum requirement and your way is far the best .
As you said, capping won’t stop screws or nails, it’s pain to repair cable when capped (specially metal capping) been on such a jobs a few times, always big damage to wall to be able to get to cables,
Would love to hear some final status from people who write regs
Plastics a waste of time but metal capping screams at u when u start drilling into it yeh u can drill through it but u should be able to realise ur drilling into metal
18:54 FYI zones don't project around corners. That horizontal bit of cable is outside the zones
well spotted
I always use capping or oval, not for mechanical protection but if some other 🔔end goes through the cable,easier to pull in a new one 👍🏻
I still prefer to cap or even better conduit, gives a bit of movement when re plating outlets maybe at a later date.
Hi. Can I use standard filler over cable? Its about 5cm long, depth 1-2cm. Thanks
I like to put the cable in the white oval conduit and use all round band to secure for the drops only, clip the rest like you have. Bang on boyo.
but you dont have to cap in stud so???? its a grey area these days
@@eddjordan2399 what's the reg if a cable is not concealed in a wall less then 50mm but protected by a rcd?
Hope you guys felt better for the weekend and had a good Easter break.
Ad you should be wearing PPE, real world, we all just get on and forget.
Always agree price is best, I've only started on my own bits 6 months ago but it's how I wanted to go and always will, majority of time works in your favour and when it doesn't I think you learn something new for next time.
Great vids lads 👍
The Dewalt clipping gum seems to work a treat. I do have one myself but it seems to struggle a bit when I point it at hardwood timber. How do you rate it for fixing to block work? As I understand it there is only one type of insulated clip available. I’ll now need to try on masonry. Given the lacklustre result with hardwood I didn’t think to try it on anything other than soft woods.
I’m a US Millwright and Electrician. Aside from occasional family or help a friend, I never work in a residence.
Regardless, I enjoy your presentation and see how our respective practices and terminology differ.
Unless it’s galv conduit, completely pointless, especially plastic
Have you tried Titanium Infused Trunking ?
What about protection from the chemicals used in the adhesives on the pvc cable? Some adhesives eat into the pvc over time. So capping would prevent this when dot and dab is used or when plasterers bond the wall over your cables.
Where’s the proof of this? I’ve been pulling cables out of walls for nearly 30 years and NEVER seen a cable damaged by chemicals in bonding or plaster or adhesive! It drys, and then that’s it, it’s not a constantly wet material that can eat away at something and corrode. Wet cement, maybe, and it’s a big maybe!
I think the conduit in chases is unnecessary. It takes up all the room of the chases and doesn’t make a good surface for the bonding to adhere to. It doesn’t offer any extra protection. Also realistically it aint gonna make a rewire any easier unless it was singles.
As an apprentice I was taught that capping should be used as the bonding and plaster gives off heat as it sets which may damage the cable sheathing....not sure how true that is, but I just kept doing it cos I was taught that way....hmm.....
Decent video as always 💪, up in Scotland I would just chisel 25mm out the block leave the cables and use fast fix boxes, less work and better end product imo 🤷♂️
You know if you dont do it someone will say you should of. It's for this reason we all still do it . So hopeful nick can change the stigma associated with not using caping
Where us your zoning here? The one going horizontal is not in a zone and the one going diagonal near the ceiling looks to be more than 150mm
Here in Spain Nick, it's flexible conduit smashed into the walls, singles, and your sockets are on a radial each fed on its own leg from a central connection point (or a few if needed) in each room.
It is so much better than clipping twin and earth direct or trying to drag it through oval conduit.
So easy to upgrade the circuits as well, and it's normal to put extra conduit runs in to allow for fibre optic etc at a later date.
Maybe I should start a You Tube channel on it so all the expats out here can understand what's going on. 😂
I like the way they do electrical stuff in Spain. Thirty years ago everything was RCD'd.
Double pole breakers on everything and flush consumer units. Lovely.
@@markrainford1219 I agree, so much safer - and how much is a double pole breaker compared to an RCBO which is now the norm in the UK?
I swear the UK just keep re-wiriting the regs for the sake of it. Everything here is electric - and most houses have a 25 amp supply. ours is a 3 bed 2bath detached - aircon, immersion heater etc - It' never tripped. Meanwhile in the UK sparks are having to work out if an 80amp main fuse is sufficient on a 2 bed terrace house with gas central heating and water. ;-)
Capping is completely unnecessary imo. Some people think they're 'going the extra mile' or whatever by doing redundant stuff but imo it's a waste of time and money. Cable is double insulated and capping doesn't protect it. It's also very hard to break two layers of insulation with a trowel which are 99% of the time not sharp-edged since they're worn in.
What about impact of cement or adhesive to the cable?
What do the manufactures say about capping/oval? (Doncaster cable or Prysmium) Remember the Regs do state that the manufactures instruction can superceed BS7671
Seems to me the main issue is people having a blanket approach to capping, and giving themselves a binary yes or no choice. Rather than using their knowledge and experience to interpret the Regs, and take each installation on its individual merits.
How are them clips in the blocks guys will they fall out if you sneeze on the cable or are they fairly good ?
rock hard mate
You know what happens when someone hits capping with a drill? They just push harder.
even a nail or a screw will go into the cable easily , its all cosmetic look in my opinion
I'm sorry you've got low energy, but you keep giving us excellent vids. Take time to look after you! (no-one else will!)
Surely the conduit is used to increase the current carrying capacity of the t&e.
@Nick&Adam
Cheers as always for the great vid.
Where did you get your extendable ‘stripper pole’ you often use to mount the frikkin laser?
Ad needs to put on a better poker face. He struggled a bit with that load. Oh dear oh dear..... 😀😀😀😀. Nice work as per usual!
Capping is to prevent damage from
Plasterers trowel so pvc or metal does the job. Not used for anything else other than that in my opinion
Do you have anywhere where you link to all the products you use? I really like the look of the fixing trays you have with the removable tubs.
Thanks
Hey @0:40 have you got a link for them downlights? Got a similiar job coming up 😬
A drill or nail goes straight through Capping ,it is only used to protect cables from the plasterers float .Most jobs are dry lined so there is no reason to use it .
I always did wonder if oval conduit or capping would even afford enough mechanical protection from a direct nail hit?
You're joking?
did i see this correctly...usually a perfectionist then bodges a few old bits of brick in the wall, silicon sealer over the top and some brick dust/dirt from the floor....bodge of the century!
Tracked in PVC 20mm round pipe should be used regardless of RCD protection. Helps for future Rewiring or fault fixing
Standard practice here in NI and have made many rewires handy for myself.
There's a building reg in Scotland where accessories are to be 350mm or greater from any internal corner (it's impractical and most people ignore it) Is there a similar building reg / requirement in England and Wales or that?
Pretty sure we don't have that down here. It doesn't make any sence to me why that would be a reg either. sink, cooker etc distances makes sense.
300mm in england afaik?
Nice looking bag ready for release date.
Nic what's your thoughts on the velocity 4.5 backpack, I'm eyeing one up as a replacement for a Stanley fatmax backpack where I find myself just loading it out with everything and anything resulting in making it weigh an absolute tone.
Got the Velocity 9.0 about a week ago and honestly, it's the best bag I've ever purchased. Weighed up between that and the Velocity Rogue 9.0
Stopped capping years ago mate
Cant remember what video i saw about capping. As it is recommended there are only two poeple that you should be aware of . 1st being you favourite plasterers. 2nd is the lawyers trying to sue you when there a fire or someone got a shock because you didnt follow recommendations by the regs just to save money. And they use the regs Against you. Not worth the hassle, just cap.
Indeed,we NEVER put cables under plaster,its better because of a shield against screws or nails!Its better because you can change the wires(we use no cable in conduit) in the future.Say there is a conduit to a switch with only two wires and there must be more wires in the future.The only time we use cables is on the walls of gardens and ofcourse in the ground.
But then again we are dutchies..Its just more practical.
Well two things one if it was easy ever you would do it and two luckily I am in the US where I live it's 90% wood framing which makes life so much easier LOL but y'all do good work keep it up
Waste of time offers no protection really…and not a requirement. I’d consider it if it was outside a zone unintentionally. Other than that get it clipped
You're looking at the completed electrical installation as a whole, and thats where you're incorrect.
Selection and erection of materials starts from day one. So during the construction phase, you should be designing your install to be protected from any reasonably foreseeable occurrence.
@@idi0tdetectioninprogress clipped cables are compliant my point stands. You’ve offered no evidence to support the rabble 😂👍🏻
I still do is so if someone comes in after and drill a hole they know
Can I put my name down for the new bag giveaway....or is it too soon
What height do you put sockets above a worktop from floor level?
No set height. Check Building Regs Part M, work with that and the customers requirements.
Nick? I was going to contact you directly to discuss this. However, you seem to be the type of guy who wishes to be transparant.
Myself and one of my plasterers were asked by a customer of yours to cover up some work. No issue there, that's normal procedure.
What i did wish to point out was the poorly fixed cabling. We had to remove the fixtures and re-fix them. Again, quite poor but not a BIG deal..
The BIG deal was the washing machine. The cable was NOT fixed to the wall so vibration over time could cause damage to either cable and/or wall. More so, shorts.
There was also a non earthed metal boxed switch at the top of the stars on a SPDT (The typical 2 x SPDT set up for up and down stairs)
Ill drop you an email titled "Comment BLAH on youtube".
Cheers.
Metal capping would prevent someone, or atleast make them second guess what they were drilling when putting plugs into a wall.
Use a electric cable detector
Our company has never used capping the answer is simple .it can’t be rewired due to the fact the cables are so tight in the capping. Why make your job so hard . Take your cables to the floor level under the proposed kitchen units for any power that is required in any cupboard.put your sockets in above the work top with a chase in conduit to below the work top. Plus if the client has any additional items that need power you will have the ring main under the kick plates . Hope this helps you 😊
Another great video, keep up the great work guys 👍🏼
I'm Aussie, but I don't understand England's obsession for "ring mains" but I do understand the need for "metal" capping, which I understand here would need to be Earthed.
Nick you don’t need explain yourself about your work ! It’s top class ! I’ve taken a lot of tips over the last year or so of watching your videos 👍🏻. If people have a problem it’s there problem and you will probably find there only picking fault because there’s is 💩 👌.
I agree 100%. One of the hallmarks of a professional is being able to make judgement calls based on training and experience. There is seldom a single "right" way to do a job. The keyboard warriors will always find fault to justify their own "superior" existence. I would trust Nick and Adam with my kids' lives.
You have pretty high ceilings there, but when I do a kitchen, I like to run everything behind the base units and come up, if it's being dabbed over and not cliped or trunked, I'll zone it with the under worktop sockets or blanks. Mainly because, you gotta think of the poor bastard fitting the wall units and other crap. Not that zoning behind base units is a thing, I think. Metal capping does bugger all for a home owner with a drill, someone in the trade will know that slight noise change, but your typical diy'r won't.
One time I drove a nail into a wall to hang a picture and water sprayed out. Not cool...
Great work and thanks for sharing this with us take care
Personally don't see the need for any conduit or capping on a normal day.
I always bond over my chases because I don't trust plasteres so a trowls not gonna snag any cable. Plus, everyone saying it makes lighter work for a future rewire: if anybody is going to rewire the house within 10 years or so, they're most likely going to reposition a lot of things too so doesn't really help.
Plus, you're not the one rewiring most likely.
Only place I can really see the relevance is switch drops and they're the only accessories to remain in the same place. And at that, you could probably pull through on it. Other than that, a waste of time in my opinion
Main benefit of capping is during construction phase. Thats why you take each installation on its own merits. For example, when sparks first fix, there could be whole load of other trades to follow. It might be days or even weeks before the walls are boarded out, leaving clipped cables at risk.
New builds yes rewires no take a washer out off chaser 25mm oval conduit knocks right in if you know you know
Vary vary rarely fit craping, regarding oval or conduit depending on the age of the customer and myself we will have died of old age before it wants rewiring again.
Happy birthday nick junior for whenever your birthday was 😂 enjoyed that video dude we never used capping for years only recently since buying the metabo we use oval now as it’s faster but if it wasn’t for that I would still clip 😂
I don`t understand, he is preaching about the zones but still ran the cables wrong :), apart from that AMAZING VIDEOS, keep up the good work !
should be 20 mm tube no capping or oval thats problem now 2 days for kitchen should be priced per point
Just like to say, “in my day” if an apprentice stood in the background with his hands in pockets many times, words would be spoken and it would be along the lines of “down the road Adam”
With that mentality thank god your day has been and gone, bear in mind nick said there are no time restraints and that both are feeling unwell. Also I'm quiet confident that you have never had a comparable job ie full time sparkie and recording it in a way that's entertaining for people to watch so as to increase the popularity of the channel which also ups revenue. I wouldn't normally comment but both of you do a cracking job and every comment increases interaction stats so win win.
You must trust the spread with his marshall tufflex 👀
Capping (or flex conduit for more reasonable people) protects cable from chemical reactions of all sorts of adhesives.
I mean plaster is fine and as long you're sure that's only thing which is going to be used than clipped "naked" cable is ok.
But if client decides to use let's say plasterboards and to glue them (white adhesive) you're - pardon my French - fucked mate. That stuff literally melts isolation.
Also cement is not great especially where there are big variations in temperature during longer time periods.
There is lots stuff which is hostile to cable isolation and you can be relaxed and go with naked cable until that first time happens and than you'll find out what I'm talking about.
Also when it comes uselessness of capping regarding protection from mechanical damage ie. nails, screws ect. yes capping is useless same as flex conduit however once you took out that nail or screw unlike capping (which btw would probably best case scenario crack plaster if you try to pull new cable) round flex conduit is at least 90% good to draw thru it a new cable without too much of struggle and without any damage to walls.
You could even do it with 6mm T&E in 20mm flex conduit... bit tight but plausible.
But hey... that's just me and my European ways... be free Mr. @N Bundy Electrical to call me an idiot because of it like you did few months ago because to your mindset it's pointless.
For the sparks out there that feel pvc capping or oval conduit is a waste of time.....try coating your hands in dry wall adhesive for a few minutes and see how your skin feels....apart from potential long term breakdown, the installation is tidy and shows the client you were trained by a decent spark and you take pride in your work!!!
Use barrier cream
Usually I dont waste time to put them in capping.
I think it is a waste of time and money unless the bare pvc cable in plaster deteriorates quicker and breaks down
Hangover job 😫 You did well though 👏
Oval all the way for me with all-round-band. No need to do it but can't be bothered with damaged cables by dodgy plasterers...
Eye protection and ear defenders 😂😂😂😂 if h&S wasn’t there never happened
9:00 I have no idea why you do this. Is it laziness that you can't be bothered to do the extra wiring and fitting? Do you badger the client into agreeing to this and then claim it's at the client's request? It's substandard and far to many sparkies get away with this.
Are you taking about the cooker isolation?
@@NBundyElectrical You only commented on the cooker which is unusual. Most sparkies I work with are reluctant to put the isolating switches for any appliances above the worktop which is frustrating. They will comply with enough pressure but normally accompanied with a strop.
@@NBundyElectrical I should add that I have never come across a sparky as neat as you.
@@stepbackandthink thanks mate, we have had loads Of customers ask for them to be hidden, and a few wanting them on work too surface, I think it all depends on the kitchen that goes in, whether there is enough sockets accessible for appliances on work top, (I always fit a cooker iso with single socket)
Either way it’s the same amount of connections, iso in the cupboard or iso on the work top 👍
When you have a wall of tall units with integrated appliances with no worktop its impossible to get the isolator within 2m unless it's in a cupboard.