*Support What We Do at The Katz-Moses Store-* bit.ly/KMWstore20 *BitsBits is the BEST place to buy router bits:* bit.ly/BitsBits USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off (look in the sub category Wood Carving/Milling Router Bits) *I have a whole router skills Playlist here: Woodworking Routers, Use, Basic, Tip and Tricks:* ruclips.net/p/PLWpKyJXgeoFGOQtgnJ1r1ttKhVzYaomXT
I've been having trouble getting 1/4" and 3/8" roundovers to create a true roundover! Yup, I'm a newbie!! This educational video really helped me better understand HOW to set up the bit. Your videos have become a staple in my library of learning tools!!! Thanks for all the great content. Larry
To prevent tear out in many circumstances you can use a “backer block” that holds those splinters in place to be cut instead of torn. It can be extra trouble but if you have a valuable piece of wood you’re working with it’s a small price to pay.
You are superior craftsman, an excellent teacher and an all around great guy. Just love the way you credit others who have influenced you. Can’t wait for my apron to arrive.
Just ordered the apron, for two important reasons: A) Combination square holster! B) Left-hander's version -- this magnificent gesture must be rewarded!
thinking of getting one. are they leather? just because the thought of a handheld router stuck in my leg bone doing circles doesnt appeal much 😂 as well as other things that could get chopped way too easily😂
Yet again another great "2:00" minute comprehensive explanation of a basic woodworking technique that everyone does. I'm just going to start calling you KMpedia, the Woodworker's Wikipedia (Encyclopedia for us old folks).
Excellent video Jonathan. Your recommendation for basic edge profiling bits is good. I’m enjoying the footage you took with the 19,000 FPS HD camera. They are incredible. Suggestion - compare tear out from a cheap router bit to one of your bits from Bits&Bits.
I thought I understood then at 7:08 I see him start to go down the edge grain and he follows through till he hits the endgrain. If following his own advice, should he have stopped before reaching that end grain?
Beauty video as always man! Thanks JKM! Can't wait for my apron and dovetail jig! Lovin the slow mo and your non chalant intro "there's no way we're gonna keep it under 2 mins".
You might consider showing how to use the safety pin when starting a profile at the end of the piece. Especially with that monster chamfer bit or when starting a climb cut, easy for someone less experienced to have it catch on the end grain and yank the piece, which of course can be dangerous. Ask me how I know...
Sneaky, sneaky with those surreptitiously placed magnetic dovetail guides on the steel support arch. My eye kept wandering over to them during the video and I couldn't tell what they were at first until I recognized that all the little dots were magnets. Good stuff! Thanks for another great video, dudeski!
2 to the third power ( 2-cubed ). Thanks for the distraction from the news and candidates. Now we can focus on the pronunciation of "that bit." This debate is better than the Laurel vs Yanni audio clip debate a while back. I hope my new apron is saturated in your talents, so my skill level will skyrocket by osmosis when I put it on... (that's my excuse, and I'm sticking with it!)
Very cool high speed shots. If you use a backer board on end grain, the blowout occurs on the sacrificial board instead of the project board. The pronunciation of Ogee is similar to "O.G." with the accent on the "O" (like the word orgy without the "r").
I can remember having a Eureka moment after getting a large set of router bits, and having been confused about why ogee and round over bits appeared to look the same. It came to me that the difference was the size of the bearing. The round over bits have a larger bearing that exactly matches the start of the radius where as ogee bits have a smaller bearing that allows the bit to undercut the face of the work piece. That together with the bit height provides the ogee profile. It's one of those obvious when you see it but with a big case with 40 odd bits in it, it can be a 'can't see the wood for the trees' situation.
Regarding tearout, not only does bit sharpness affect the severity but I have also found it can be exacerbated with incorrect RPM and even micro-deflection in the router mount. I’m betting your CNC is rock solid
Quick question - at 2:10 into the video you demonstrate the proper set up. Is the bit you are showing a 1/2" roundover? The reason I ask is to better understand how the finished profile looks for different size bits. Thank you, Larry
Great and comprehensible video! Especially the high speed footage. Thanks! Have you ever used the router table and a chsmfer bit for making 45° miters? I wonder if I could use it for making the miters for the corners of wooden boxes.
I had a comment conversation with Tamar from 3x3 custom about which way to advance the workpiece into the bit. She insisted that it should 'always' be governed by grain angle and direction, but I feel it is more important to avoid climb cutting. You can climb cut a final clean up pass if grain direction works that way, but for the bulk of the wood removal climb cutting is just asking to have the workpiece thrown across the workshop with chunks taken out of it. I often feel that some RUclips presenters get too much 'knowledge' from books, and not enough from hands-on experience.
Excellent video very informative and I’ve learned a lot watching your videos. Question, how would you get a square inside corner that I have run a chamfer bit through which as you know ,is gonna leave around corner?
Hoping you can help me out. I am working on Pine baseboard. I am planning on 1x4 with 3/8" round over. I am trying to determine would it be better to use hand router or should I get table router? I am maybe doing 10 8foot long boards. I wont be able to get one of the professional tables either. I can only get maybe the $150 ones or nice dewalt handrouter.
while edge profiling I sometimes get "bearing marks" on the wood where the bearing contacts the workpiece .... any tips on how to avoid it? maybe its because of cheaper bits?
Yeah, this concept is directly taken from Peter mc Kinnon. 2-minutes, the thing saying he is not gonna make it, even the music in other videos is the exact same style. I guess being inspired by one of the best growing channels in the video making adds to success.
Hi from the UK Jonathan and thank you for my 6:1 dovetail jig and Stop Block. They ROCK! Quick question - do you have any book recommendations on routing - there's a lot out there to wade through so just wondering if you had a 'go to' router book - aimed maybe more towards the router table... Thanks for the channel!
@@katzmosestools It isn't the lighting. The bearing is not running true to the shaft center line. That can cause the bearing to leave a depression in the wood. Easily sanded out. Not a big deal.
not sure whats up with my palm router. (im a total noob with routers), but i keep getting massive kickback to the point i dont even want to use the tool. i see these vids where people are running some half inch bit straight through a bit of mdf or hardwood. i tried it on mdf first and it just massacred the stuff, no mattwr how i tried to hold it against the fence it wanted to jump back and tear up the rear edge. could that be cheap blades causing the issue? or am i making it worse by not going full power with a small bit? im very confused by it. maybe just the cheap tool isnt up to it, ...so i got the lumpier heavier plunge router to replace it, so i dont feel like its going to jump up and grab my fingers which are way too close to that kickback with the palm. i also see vids with people lightly moving the tool with fingertips on the baseplate...if tried that id have lost a finger for sure when it kicked back on me...im not putting my fingers anywhere near that blade. sod that. id rather know what the issue is though, or else i might just have bought a bigger finger killer. help! 😂
It wouldn't have been a very good use of the slow mo camera if you couldn't see what was happening. I don't usually but nothing wrong with using the CNC for bearing bits if you don't have a router table
@@katzmosestools ok, ive been wanting to use some edge bits with cnc but couldnt decide if i should remove the bearing or leave it as kind of a fail safe
Just wondering, if you do the long grain first won't it remove the material that would be torn out when you do the end grain? How about climb cutting at the corner to reduce tear out?
You can still get tear out. Don't make it complicated. This is tried and true technique. Also never climb cut unless you have to or want a good way to shoot a board across the room.
This is stellar material. A book I read on this subject revolutionized my thinking. "The Art of Meaningful Relationships in the 21st Century" by Leo Flint
*Starting to change out all my corded tools to cordless and the **MyBest.Tools** are excellent.I just recently used it to router hinges for a 4 sets of doors with no issues and still plenty of power left (used a 3ah battery).Great visibility at the cutting area also.*
Jonathan, should a routed edge ever need sanding after? I just got my first router (game changer!) and my chamfer edges on the end grain side looked chunky. It was pine wood, which I've always had trouble getting smooth, so I figured that might why.
Jonathan Katz-Moses thanks. They are new bits so I figure it very well may be operator error, too. But, man, I’m really enjoying having a router. Makes a huge difference in the finished product.
2 things. 1: why does a round over bit have a vertical carbide edge? and 2: when I went to your store it said there are no items to purchase on this channel. (?) And when can I expect delivery of the JKM apron I ordered last week?
@@katzmosestools in terms of just any differences. Does one act any differently in relationship to the grain or maybe speed of operation? Wasnt sure if a hand router showed anything different in any aspect compared to a table router.
![Chino Pacas - Modo Capone (with Drake & Fuerza Regida) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zjv8TQ0gBkg/mqdefault.jpg)
*Support What We Do at The Katz-Moses Store-* bit.ly/KMWstore20
*BitsBits is the BEST place to buy router bits:* bit.ly/BitsBits USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off (look in the sub category Wood Carving/Milling Router Bits)
*I have a whole router skills Playlist here: Woodworking Routers, Use, Basic, Tip and Tricks:* ruclips.net/p/PLWpKyJXgeoFGOQtgnJ1r1ttKhVzYaomXT
I needed this video. I'm just getting started. Thanks bud!
I've been having trouble getting 1/4" and 3/8" roundovers to create a true roundover! Yup, I'm a newbie!! This educational video really helped me better understand HOW to set up the bit. Your videos have become a staple in my library of learning tools!!! Thanks for all the great content. Larry
To prevent tear out in many circumstances you can use a “backer block” that holds those splinters in place to be cut instead of torn. It can be extra trouble but if you have a valuable piece of wood you’re working with it’s a small price to pay.
I hope you bring this back as a Ten Minute Tuesday!
You are superior craftsman, an excellent teacher and an all around great guy. Just love the way you credit others who have influenced you. Can’t wait for my apron to arrive.
Yayyyyy!! 20 minute Tuesday is way better!!
Just ordered the apron, for two important reasons:
A) Combination square holster!
B) Left-hander's version -- this magnificent gesture must be rewarded!
thinking of getting one. are they leather? just because the thought of a handheld router stuck in my leg bone doing circles doesnt appeal much 😂 as well as other things that could get chopped way too easily😂
@@luminousfractal420 -- no, they're heavy canvas. Pretty substantial!
Thanks well worth a look
Yet again another great "2:00" minute comprehensive explanation of a basic woodworking technique that everyone does. I'm just going to start calling you KMpedia, the Woodworker's Wikipedia (Encyclopedia for us old folks).
best bit depth video around. Was looking for a consistent method for accurate bit depth, now I have it, thanks!
Love the slow mo shots with the router bits! Great explanation..
Got to love the router lift table, Anyone looking should buy Jess em , Absolutely the best !
Love those Bits&Bits. They work great.
Awesome HD video! Makes the issue so much more clear.
What better start to the day, than a JKM video? Just love your channel sir!
This was pretty cool. Those slow motion pics were very helpful.
Excellent video Jonathan. Your recommendation for basic edge profiling bits is good. I’m enjoying the footage you took with the 19,000 FPS HD camera. They are incredible. Suggestion - compare tear out from a cheap router bit to one of your bits from Bits&Bits.
The Slo-mo footage is truly incredible! Love it!
Thanks so much!!
Thanks for this. BTW it’s good fun to watch those high speed parts whilst using the RUclips 0.25x playback speed, especially with the sound on.
I thought I understood then at 7:08 I see him start to go down the edge grain and he follows through till he hits the endgrain. If following his own advice, should he have stopped before reaching that end grain?
Really, really interesting! Thanks a lot, Jonathan! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Beauty video as always man! Thanks JKM! Can't wait for my apron and dovetail jig!
Lovin the slow mo and your non chalant intro "there's no way we're gonna keep it under 2 mins".
Thank you my friend!
Keep up the good work man. This channel consistantly has great content.
Thank you. New to routers and this was a helpful tip.
again, enjoyed the high speed / slow mo.
bits look amazing. I have seen a lot more tear out then that. great video fun to watch you.
You might consider showing how to use the safety pin when starting a profile at the end of the piece. Especially with that monster chamfer bit or when starting a climb cut, easy for someone less experienced to have it catch on the end grain and yank the piece, which of course can be dangerous.
Ask me how I know...
The rocketing of an oak piece across my shop is the reason I have a starter pin. I agree that these should be more widely used and talked about.
Yes please!
Very appropriate video as I'm receiving my router table today. Looking forward to using it and trying out these techniques.
Nice! I have a whole router skills Playlist here: Woodworking Routers, Use, Basic, Tip and Tricks: ruclips.net/p/PLWpKyJXgeoFGOQtgnJ1r1ttKhVzYaomXT
Sneaky, sneaky with those surreptitiously placed magnetic dovetail guides on the steel support arch. My eye kept wandering over to them during the video and I couldn't tell what they were at first until I recognized that all the little dots were magnets. Good stuff! Thanks for another great video, dudeski!
Those are rejects and blems. We chamfer everything at that same router table so that steel post makes it way easier to just stick them there hahaha
@@katzmosestools Slow-mo footage *and* a peak behind the curtain? This day keeps getting better n' better!
The high speed shots were awesome! I didn't know i could take a partial cut with those edge profile bits,thanks for the tip! Love the channel!
I've bought a few bits from bits & bits (using Jonathan's coupon). Every one of them has been awesome.
Again, that footage is amazing!
2 to the third power ( 2-cubed ). Thanks for the distraction from the news and candidates. Now we can focus on the pronunciation of "that bit." This debate is better than the Laurel vs Yanni audio clip debate a while back. I hope my new apron is saturated in your talents, so my skill level will skyrocket by osmosis when I put it on... (that's my excuse, and I'm sticking with it!)
Great video Jonathan!
Great video and advice - JKM. The ogee bit is pronounced ow-jee - or like OG - not with the extra e at the end 🤓
thank you Katz
Very cool high speed shots. If you use a backer board on end grain, the blowout occurs on the sacrificial board instead of the project board. The pronunciation of Ogee is similar to "O.G." with the accent on the "O" (like the word orgy without the "r").
At this point the permanent intro video should just be mentioning “this is where we’d normally run an intro.”
😉
Reminds me of Jimmy Kimmel's "sorry Matt Damon, we ran out of time" bit.
Michael Finley ha, I thought the same thing
Man i love the OGE look on edges :)
I can remember having a Eureka moment after getting a large set of router bits, and having been confused about why ogee and round over bits appeared to look the same. It came to me that the difference was the size of the bearing. The round over bits have a larger bearing that exactly matches the start of the radius where as ogee bits have a smaller bearing that allows the bit to undercut the face of the work piece. That together with the bit height provides the ogee profile. It's one of those obvious when you see it but with a big case with 40 odd bits in it, it can be a 'can't see the wood for the trees' situation.
That is a freakin awesome camera.
Regarding tearout, not only does bit sharpness affect the severity but I have also found it can be exacerbated with incorrect RPM and even micro-deflection in the router mount. I’m betting your CNC is rock solid
Nice!!
Great info, thanks for another great video!!
More great advice cheers Big J
Great work!!
nice review, always remember the pearl end grain first !
Thanks for the info! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
I've always pronounced it 'O G' but spelled it ogee.
Correct
Great Footage Brother!
Great tips for sure! Which do you prefer, a shaper, or router table?
Good tip thank you
Quick question - at 2:10 into the video you demonstrate the proper set up. Is the bit you are showing a 1/2" roundover? The reason I ask is to better understand how the finished profile looks for different size bits. Thank you, Larry
Thanks mate 👍
Why are some roundover bits sold with no bearing? What the difference? why use a bit with no bearing?
Good tips, he's also got a new apron now
They're on presale in my store! Go grab one and enter the contest to win one of everything from my store and a Matt Estlea marking knife.
I like the idea that the intro never actually gets finished and that the excuses get more wild with each of these videos
Great and comprehensible video! Especially the high speed footage. Thanks!
Have you ever used the router table and a chsmfer bit for making 45° miters? I wonder if I could use it for making the miters for the corners of wooden boxes.
yup, ogee is pronounced like "oh, gee, I think I'm pronouncing that wrong". :) awesome video, as always. Really enjoying this high speed stuff.
End grain first. Is this common knowledge? Cause I'm guessing that is my whole problem!! Thank you!
Thanks for sharing that!
"You can't get tearout on the long grain."
Oh, I can. Caught a chunk that ripped along the grain pretty deep, and shot it across the room.
Meat Hook I’ve had the same experience. There’s probably not a solution for that problem either. Thankfully, it’s a pretty rare occurrence.
@@louiswarmoth7354 Sharp blades, and not pushing the timber too hard helps, but sometimes the grain just isn't bonded well.
I had a comment conversation with Tamar from 3x3 custom about which way to advance the workpiece into the bit. She insisted that it should 'always' be governed by grain angle and direction, but I feel it is more important to avoid climb cutting. You can climb cut a final clean up pass if grain direction works that way, but for the bulk of the wood removal climb cutting is just asking to have the workpiece thrown across the workshop with chunks taken out of it. I often feel that some RUclips presenters get too much 'knowledge' from books, and not enough from hands-on experience.
I want to know how many times you could be Jimmy Kimmel's brother haha. Especially the voice
I am the second
Also really excited to get my apron
Excellent video very informative and I’ve learned a lot watching your videos. Question, how would you get a square inside corner that I have run a chamfer bit through which as you know ,is gonna leave around corner?
Hi. I want to complete round off the edges of front porch 6in x 6in columns. What size bit should I use ?
Hoping you can help me out. I am working on Pine baseboard. I am planning on 1x4 with 3/8" round over. I am trying to determine would it be better to use hand router or should I get table router? I am maybe doing 10 8foot long boards. I wont be able to get one of the professional tables either. I can only get maybe the $150 ones or nice dewalt handrouter.
love the high speed footage, great shots of the tearout! and i'm pretty sure you went over 2 min today cuz its in slow mo, no? 😉
Yeah that's a great excuse!
Would you not pass a backer board with the end grain cuts to stop the tear out (as per Norm Abram doing stiles & rails on router) ?
Katz-Moses would you sign the presale aprons???
while edge profiling I sometimes get "bearing marks" on the wood where the bearing contacts the workpiece .... any tips on how to avoid it? maybe its because of cheaper bits?
Most likely cheaper bits and you're pushing too hard
Good video, Bud! If you don’t count the plug at the end you just beat 8 minutes.
Thanks I don't remember hearing the order tip yet.
for edge profiling dose ply or other sheet have the same tear out issue as the grain is all over the place with the veneers?
@Jonathan Katz-Moses For your instagram tag at the beginning is that something you created in after affects or is that a plug in?
I have the solution to your time limit woes my friend... "10 min Tuesday".... that way you'll 'almost' always beat THAT time 😃🤣
Yeah, this concept is directly taken from Peter mc Kinnon. 2-minutes, the thing saying he is not gonna make it, even the music in other videos is the exact same style. I guess being inspired by one of the best growing channels in the video making adds to success.
What is an ideal staircase?
Hi from the UK Jonathan and thank you for my 6:1 dovetail jig and Stop Block. They ROCK! Quick question - do you have any book recommendations on routing - there's a lot out there to wade through so just wondering if you had a 'go to' router book - aimed maybe more towards the router table... Thanks for the channel!
Check out my router videos playlist on my channel. I don't know how to read so I watch videos mostly
@@katzmosestools Thanks buddy. Much appreciated
I've noticed the bearing often leaves a line on the wood, how do you deal with that? Just sand it away?
I think that was just the lighting. If it does or is so light that one pass with 220 grit would remove it
@@katzmosestools It isn't the lighting. The bearing is not running true to the shaft center line. That can cause the bearing to leave a depression in the wood. Easily sanded out. Not a big deal.
not sure whats up with my palm router. (im a total noob with routers), but i keep getting massive kickback to the point i dont even want to use the tool.
i see these vids where people are running some half inch bit straight through a bit of mdf or hardwood. i tried it on mdf first and it just massacred the stuff, no mattwr how i tried to hold it against the fence it wanted to jump back and tear up the rear edge.
could that be cheap blades causing the issue? or am i making it worse by not going full power with a small bit?
im very confused by it. maybe just the cheap tool isnt up to it, ...so i got the lumpier heavier plunge router to replace it, so i dont feel like its going to jump up and grab my fingers which are way too close to that kickback with the palm.
i also see vids with people lightly moving the tool with fingertips on the baseplate...if tried that id have lost a finger for sure when it kicked back on me...im not putting my fingers anywhere near that blade. sod that.
id rather know what the issue is though, or else i might just have bought a bigger finger killer.
help! 😂
Great stuff. Thank you!
You may have been over 2 minutes before even setting that goal 😂
J, if I remember Art history from 50 years ago correctly the ogee bit profile is named after the Egyptian (?) arch. My teacher pronounced it OG.
I’ve always known it as Roman Ogee. (OG)
Do u use the bearing with the cnc or what that just for example purposes?
It wouldn't have been a very good use of the slow mo camera if you couldn't see what was happening. I don't usually but nothing wrong with using the CNC for bearing bits if you don't have a router table
@@katzmosestools ok, ive been wanting to use some edge bits with cnc but couldnt decide if i should remove the bearing or leave it as kind of a fail safe
It's O-G I think.
Just wondering, if you do the long grain first won't it remove the material that would be torn out when you do the end grain? How about climb cutting at the corner to reduce tear out?
You can still get tear out. Don't make it complicated. This is tried and true technique. Also never climb cut unless you have to or want a good way to shoot a board across the room.
Backer board for end grain?
OK nice job, so where is the bit I can use to make some biscuit holes with? Hint, hint.
Any tips for profiling edge grain cutting boards? I'm working on my first set of cutting boards this week.
do the vertical corners first
Jonathan Katz-Moses another one for ya.. do you profile your edges after sanding? Or maybe just before your final 220 sanding?
Two(ish) Tuesday’s- intro and gmo free
This is stellar material. A book I read on this subject revolutionized my thinking. "The Art of Meaningful Relationships in the 21st Century" by Leo Flint
*Starting to change out all my corded tools to cordless and the **MyBest.Tools** are excellent.I just recently used it to router hinges for a 4 sets of doors with no issues and still plenty of power left (used a 3ah battery).Great visibility at the cutting area also.*
Jonathan, should a routed edge ever need sanding after? I just got my first router (game changer!) and my chamfer edges on the end grain side looked chunky. It was pine wood, which I've always had trouble getting smooth, so I figured that might why.
Sounds like you need a different bit. Honestly I try not to sand them anything more than a couple passes with a piece of sandpaper by hand
Jonathan Katz-Moses thanks. They are new bits so I figure it very well may be operator error, too. But, man, I’m really enjoying having a router. Makes a huge difference in the finished product.
Did I win the giveaway?? :) I kid - but I’m so pumped for the new apron! Oh, and awesome video!
How make or buy the table
Another great use of the slow-mo. You know you could have done 4- 2 minute Tuesday videos on this for today..... 🙃
Yeah, I know. You're mom keeps telling me the same thing too 🙃
@@katzmosestools she still talks about you all the time.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
What happened with the router giveaway a couple of months ago? I’m sure it’s over but I don’t know the results
Winner has received their prize. I'm guessing you didn't win.
Nope! But that’s fine, I’ll just cope without a router for a while. XD
🤣🤣
2 things. 1: why does a round over bit have a vertical carbide edge? and 2: when I went to your store it said there are no items to purchase on this channel. (?) And when can I expect delivery of the JKM apron I ordered last week?
Its to add a decorative edge. I mention it in this video. Give my store another try its working for me. Thanks bud.
@@katzmosestools it wouldn't work on YT so I went on the website and found it there. Thanks
Did you see any difference in the high speed cameras between table routers and hand routers?
In terms of?
@@katzmosestools in terms of just any differences. Does one act any differently in relationship to the grain or maybe speed of operation? Wasnt sure if a hand router showed anything different in any aspect compared to a table router.
@@williamlivingstone4326 shouldn't. They're all about the same thing. One you move the wood and the other you move the router.
Tool Tip Tuesday!
Just the Tip Tuesday?
Jonathan Katz-Moses what’s the worst that could happen?
Do you have beginner Router videos
A ton. Theres a Playlist on my channel