How to move OS drive to new PC and keep Windows and Activation! EASY!
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- Опубликовано: 20 авг 2024
- YES! You can move your OS drive to a new PC and keep your files and windows in tact! Here's how!
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It needs to be said again; Jay, putting aside your own invaluable contributions to your channel, your production staff are simply fantastic. The little editing add-ons and clean production sure shows you have a great team. For example, that little fast forward in old-style format is a great touch. I know I'm blowing smoke up butts here, but so what. Sometimes people need to be recognized and not taken for granted by viewers.
You do not have to activate by phone. Click troubleshoot. It will give you a list of computers you have on your account. You pick the one you are replacing.
As long as you attach it to your Windows account
Yeah. I'm pro local user and anti link with MS account
I ran into some fun issues where that didn’t work for me and support told me I needed to get a new licence… luckily I had another computer that had a retail licence I didn’t use anymore on my account. They really want you to do the digital activation
As much as I would like to recommend that idea, I ran into trouble with it as well (something to do with an error occurring when the license tries to update) only workaround for me was to phone them, even the techie I spoke to had trouble with it (it should of worked but it didn't, and no amount of retrying helped) got a fresh new license out of it for the trouble, but it ended up wiping the system inadvertently.
Funny, I've moved individual drives between multiple systems, and never had to reactivate.
maybe because I'm running Fedora.
One thing I always do too is go into Device Manager, Show Hidden Devices, and uninstall all of the old items from old board. I just find it cleans it up Device Manager and has prevented me issues later on at times. I have used the Activate Windows feature for so long now when switching hardware. Great video Jay!
never had any issue with old drivers except on like s775 era boards and drivers super specific, like some asus driver you install to enable charging current on certain usb ports.
if you never installed any such special drivers, should be no issue. my current windows install has migrated like 5 times since s775 intel onto finally landing on ryzen 5600x.
will likely be carried over to am5 as well.
windows 7 was sensitive to cross-chipset (usually just between amd and intel, same vendor was fine) and then sysprep /oobe or /generalize would fix it.
might not be the solution on win10/11 tho. never tried. cause I've never had to. for what it's worth I've migrated like 20 different installs so far over the last 5 years.
To remove the old rubbish from device manager I use a tool called GhostBuster, it's free and it's portable, it will show you all the devices in device manager that are no longer connected and remove the whole lot in one go if you want. Been using it for years and it works great even on Windows 11, such a time saver and it's nice to know all the old crap is gone. It will never touch active connected devices.
Oh this sounds like something I'm gonna need when I do a new build in a couple years *saved*
Or perhaps consider an OS that respects their user's privacy and freedom like Linux
@@whydoyouaskdude and risk being without the games you play and programs you need
@@masudparvejsani and live within the impending 'quality of life' updates cycle for the good part of your computer's life span
@@masudparvejsani Every single game (152/152 of my library) runs perfectly fine. Yes, i don't play any battle royale shooters or games with anti-cheat, or use CAD software, no Adobe Suite. I am aware there are pending issues for those and even for them exist solutions, albeit more cumbersome ones.
@@whydoyouaskdude There's no solution to not being able to play games with anti-cheat.
I remember the days when Microsoft was very skeptical that you 'replaced your motherboard'. So glad they wised up.
I do lots of these at work, and recommend running neowin ghostbuster to clean up drivers no longer needed. Its a good idea to delete your system restore points and create a fresh one too.
There is also a way to manually remove the windows key from the motherboard. it does involve using some commands, but i've done it and it works just fine. Just make sure to write down the key number BEFORE you remove it from the motherboard otherwise its gone.
So pull it using an app, delete it, and it's reusable after?
You can deactivate the key in the control panel under the activation section if you don't have an OEM key (OEM=key stored on motherboard).
@@_____alypticso you run command prompt as administrator and there’s a command called “slmgr. vbs /upk” you type that and hit enter and itll uninstall the key manually which deactivates windows on that pc. Then once you build and boot the new pc you can just put in that same key and itll work just fine, pretty much as if you were putting the key in for the first time
I kept the same Windows installation (besides updating from 7 to 10) through three different builds on a spinny hard drive. Ten years of accumulated crap, and things were very slow at that point. I could turn the system on and go make a coffee while waiting for Windows to boot up. I finally moved to an SSD two years ago, and my goodness! Best upgrade I ever did.
I feel this in my bones. My comp wasn't nearly as slow as yours, but when I finally got an SSD, I was amazed at how fast my system could actually be. Kicking myself for not doing it sooner, but it took some time for the prices to come down and it just wasn't high on my priority list.
SSDs will transform a lot of systems you would almost consider ewaste. Great too for old laptops.
@@laowai2000 Worth it if the system is already SATA based, not so much for older pre SATA systems however as you will have to also get a converter to convert from IDE to SATA and they run somewhere between 16-20 dollars on top of the drive itself, and then you may have to go with an M.2 form factor to make it fit in the existing cage, however, it's moot as you are now running through the low bandwidth of IDE/PATA to begin with, so you won't get the speeds of even SATA with your SSD.
This is crazy, my teen son and I built a new PC last night and did exactly that, i. e. put the system drive from old PC destined for parts. I was getting ready for all the pain associated with the move but the PC loaded Windows 10 no problem. It did not even ask for reactivation (yet?) and Windows 11 installed during the update! Absolutely smooth relocation. And, thanks to you, guys, now I know what to do if it decided to ask for reactivation. You rock!
Going from Windows 10 to 11 is not a good idea.
@@ObakuZenCenter Your comment as is is useless to anyone. The internet has a trillion pros and a trillion cons about going from Windows 10 to 11. What are your specific reasons for not going from 10 to 11?
Jay you have no idea how much this helped me, I'm literally going to build a new computer today and use the same NVMEs form the old one (with windows 11 on it). So Thank you for the great video and keep up the great content!! New build I5 13700k, zotac 4080super (white), NZXT Kraken cooler (360, white), Gigabyte Z790, 1000w PSU and corsair DDR5 6400mhz, NZXT H6 Flow
This is such perfect timing as I'm soon building a new rig with only my SSDs moving across. Thank you
Same here!
Where was this yesterday when i needed it? 😂
Still running off my Windows 7 key. Got the free 10 upgrade. Got the free 11 upgrade. On my 4th harddrive since 2010. Not sure how, not sure why. They just keep giving me free Windows when I change drives. Yes, I have a Microsoft account. All it does is ask if I'm changing to new parts. "Boom, here's a free Windows install."
pretty cool
got 4-6 free windows xp keys keys in uni from being apart of a club... still using all those keys to this day... never paid for windows in my life and have legit keys thanks to that. that said, i did not downgrade to windows 11.. so i might actually have to buy a key in the future unless windows keys can still be upgraded for free atm.
09:19 Baby, this is what you came for.... Lightning....
I'm kinda sleep deprived right now so I thought the video was titled wrong till getting almost halfway through
Huh?
*lighting
thank you.
This feels like something that can be explained in a minute or two.
I dont need to waste 15 min to learn this.
Strikes every time she moves.. and everybody's watching her, but she's looking at..
@jaytwocents you have no clue how much this helps. I literally just finished a new build not even 72 hrs ago and just swapped over my drives and ran into the windows activate thing and have yet to figure it out. 🎉 I swear you read my mind with this video. Thank you thank you thank you.
Pls help me I Don understand I'm stuck on and mother board load up screen
Bro I was JUST going to be getting a new PC, this literally couldn't be more perfectly timed.
jay you can also just go to activate then go to troubleshoot and chose the licence you want to use
The only thing J forgot to mention is that the system has to have UEFI enabled on both computers and no raid.
It's an added pain but there are ways to convert the MBR to GPT if your old install was before UEFI.
@@EkiToji True, and this was intended to be the simplest way to do this. The phone activation is a good tip.
You can also fix the raid support by loading drivers in recovery, not easy but doable. Similar things may need to happen when comverting a physical PC to a VM.
MBR2GPT is kind of a pain in the ass, but there's a way around it.
If the old machine is 'legacy/MBR', make an image of the drive (all you need is the Windows partition; I use Lazesoft for this), then clean install on the new drive in UEFI mode.
Restore the Windows partition over the new drive's Windows install.
Boot from Macrium Reflect PE (rescue disk), repair windows boot.
- Above, make sure you're in pure UEFI mode without any legacy enabled, or else Macrium will legacy boot and you won't be able to correct the GPT/UEFI boot sector.
Reboot. Done.
As for RAID, you can clone to a single drive and it'll just boot as long as you're similar chipsets, or if Windows at least knows what it's going on. I've done this with RAID 0, 1, 10, and 5 volumes without issue.
Why on earth would anyone use RAID for a boot drive..?
IIRC Windows Licence Keys are now attached or able to be attached to a Microsoft-Account, and when logged in itll activate it on its own.
Its the inbetween step to subscription-based windows licenses
Yes this is true however it will not always auto migrate the license and if you have too many devices registered with the same key you'll have to contact MS to get that sorted out.
this does not work if you have an OEM license key,which are usually cheaper. They bind to the board regardless.
There is no reason for Microsoft-Account to have/own or operate windows.
@@ThatMetalheadMan not true my oem digital license worth 3$, still working for 7years from am4 build w/ w10pro to am5 new build w/ w11pro. Still can transfer and activate windows.
wow. I'm doing this later today. great timing
Same Lol
As someone who has done this too many times to count, thanks for making this video. I've been making it much more painful than it needs to be (i scorch/salt and start clean each time because I'm always worried about pointers and under the covers stuff not being able to reconcile new hardware). Love this type of content yall!
Finally, an actual how-to video from JTC
4:30 also Jay, if you felt comfortable, you could mount the AIO 280mm vertical, using just the middle set of screw holes, then fab some vertical mount, but then I guess it becomes a whole thing of changing what the case has available.
I've upgraded boards and CPUs before twice. The first time, I had to call Microsoft for the reactivation. Just told them that I upgraded my machine and did the confirmation ID process. Then I moved my hard drive again to another board, after the free W7 to W10 free upgrade. It worked seemlessly. Oh, a Pro license makes it does that. A Home version license might not. Of course, there's gonna be some need to update drivers and stuff, and some crumbs may be left in storage after the update. Though I never really had any major issues with the migration, I did end up doing a clean install a few years later, using the same Windows license. And lastly, if you have a Microsoft account, paid or free, and have your OS license tied to it, signing in to the upgraded machine will make the activation somewhat automatic.
That World of Warships ad will never not be funny, especially the Phil "yeah" thrown in at the end of the beginning bit.
Nice timing! I just bought a new pc build and I need this guide badly! Thanks a lot!
For anyone wondering you can also find the inf files and inject them directly into the windows installation ahead of time as well. Also make sure you disable Bitlocker and Data Encryption before changing boards as Bitlocker will trip due to new secure boot keys being generated when taking an old drive and putting it into a new board.
What’s crazy is I recently upgraded my motherboard, slightly better chipset, and a different manufacturer; fully expecting this problem. It didn’t happen, even after a fresh install of Windows 11. My guess is that Windows could detect that all my other hardware was exactly the same, CPU, GPU, RAM, & PCI WiFi. I had secure boot disabled because of TPM 2.0 on my original setup too (not sure if that made a difference).
Regarding the powerboard and whether it's useless or not, I believe the intention with it is to more easily swap PSU cables and/or the PSU itself in the event where it would be defective or something like that.
Like like with other test benches, you can just as easily swap out the other parts such as the Motherboard or the GPU. So the powerboard is likely to further that simplicity with swapping out parts.
This takes me back to the XP days working in a repair shop.
Back then, a lot of costumers brought in a prebuilt from a brand called Medion which in our shop was notorious as they always seemed to break right after the factory warranty expired.
They were cheaper than competitors when it came to specs so I'm sure they must've bought bulk hardware that may or may not have barely passed Quality Assurance, at least back then.
Replacing motherboards was almost a daily thing and as you say towards the end, back then it would bork and require a fresh install.
Calling MS to activate Windows was also a daily thing we did 😂 and 9 out of 10 times we had to wait to speak with an actual person and explain the situation time and time again.
Jay, blur is not destructive. Put black\white bars over sensitive info. Blur can be restored to original image, it's an algorithm that can be reversed
There is also a way to manually go to the phone activation if you don't have it there, you just have to run "SLUI 4" as a command
Interesting, however it would have been helpful with mention of what are the exceptions to the rule mentioned in the title. Or why would this not work for some of us. Still, could come in handy so thanks for the info.
It does mostly works even when the chage is very big. I wen form a i78700k to a 14700k and everything worked like a charm then just installed the new drivers for everything and was 100% working
Yeah, I just moved from an 11700k to 7700X, so everything but the drives are new and it worked perfectly on first boot
The Arctic Liquid Freezer III has direct MB air flow.
There was actually quite a few new AIOs shown at Computex that had fans on the CPU mounted part to cool VRMs, so maybe he could upgrade in the future.
I've never attempted to move a Win11 install to another motherboard, but with previous versions, I would just remove all motherboard drivers and then transfer the install. Worked every time.
make sure you have your bitlocker key or disable bitlocker if enabled
Jay is in Big RGBs back pocket! 😉
usually, there is a script/utility on windows (if anyone cares/wants to know which, let me know, I can edit this) that is INTENDED to be used before swapping system hardware, it will "uninstall" the Win key, exactly for that per-1-device registered win key, and then once you move over to different hardware, you just re-activate Win again with the previously used key.
Also, the "flashed Win key to MoBo" is usually a laptop thing rather than a Desktop-style PC thing.
OEM keys can't be (legally) moved, only those bought separately, or "with media" if that is an additional cost when buying the PC.
@@phillee2814 yeah I know, I meant the bought original Windows CD with a single-use key (from a so-called trusted vendor ofc), not the deal included when buying MoBo then ripped out using some tool or script.
The more involved thing is moving your windows installation from one drive to another and then to a new computer. My old PC is still running a 1TB SATA SSD and obviously in the days of cheap 4TB M2 (and nearly affordable 8TB ones) that doesn't cut it anymore for a new system. Gonna be quite a thing, but i hope i will manage it in the end. Doubt it makes for a good video tutorial though.
Hard parts used to be migrating between two drives going ide to sata, sata to nvme, or BIOS to UEFI boot layout changes due to missing drivers & trying to spin up a valid boot change. Some motherboards had other incompatible chipsets from one to the next where attempting to load the old drivers bluescrened on the new hardware.
Moved from a prebuilt HP pc, to my own picked hardware, only things made it over was my windows drive and a separate storage drive.
Plugged everything in and windows started no issues. One small prompt of moving liscenced to new hardware, and boom done.
This was after logging in with my windows account.
Activating by phone often works if a purchased key doesn’t work via regular activation too.
For the ASUS RAM Aura glitch... What you have to do is go into your applications and delete Aura, then go to task manager and kill the processes for the lighting application(if it's still exists as a process) and immediately or simultaneously go into your program files under ASUS and Aura and delete all your HAL folders if those exist... Once you do that, restart your computer. Double check to make sure there's no more ASUS folders in either program folder.
The same thing will happen on any RAM kit as soon as you either change the motherboard or if you move that RAM kit temporarily and then put it back into that same motherboard that has been run with another set of RAM. Aura will try to run the lighting profiles simultaneously, and the only way to get that to stop is to do a reset of the application in settings or to totally uninstall all components and reinstall.
Oh way to make eight this is to turn off Aura before you do any sort of change to your hardware but that doesn't work all the time..........
Love you!
And even though I hate ASUS for the same reasons you do, I bought all ASUS things before I really understood what I was doing to myself.. lmao
Jays ads are genuinely amazing 😂
This channel has JUMPED THE SHARK!
Or you can just forgo the ability to change Windows themes and still use Windows indefinitely. There will most likely be a watermark at the bottom right reminding you to reactivate, but other than that it functions perfectly fine. Or buy a retail copy license and that allows unlimited installs on one machine at a time. Avoid the OEM copies, which lock the activation code to the motherboard hardware ID that the OS was first installed on.
This is amazingly simple! Thanks a ton. Now, I can upgrade from AM4 to AM5 painlessly.
I can confirm this works. Upgraded to a 7900 from a 8700K just copying the install to a new drive. One thing I did notice... When you look at your windows devices in the app, it will show you how many computers use that key. You can remove them though (it must remove the TPM data), and you can continue on as happy as Larry. Still doesn't beat a fresh install... which I should really do at some point! All data is backed up and ready to go though. Just another wee nugget of info.
I have only ever just swapped the drive and let windows update handle it. Worked every time. Never had an issue.
I always do a clean install.
Yeah agree with you there. Certainly no downside and so easy to do these days off a USB!
You should be doing clean installs of Windows regardless, the most frequent troubleshooting fallback in IT is always a reimage. It's usually not even Windows that gets fucked up, it's morons installing a bunch of garbage on their computer and failing to maintain it, plus programs leaving a bunch of garbage in the registry and file structure, as well as process and driver bloat. A clean install gives you a clean Windows that will always run better on the same hardware than whatever you were running before. DISM and Windows Updates can't remove all the garbage software and conduct a cleanup of your own mess.
Can you use the same method shown in the video to reuse the windows key when you do that? swapping out my CPU and motherboard soon and would rather do a clean install as well.
@@DrWuzer You can pull the Windows key from within the OS and try to enter it directly when you install at the Media Creation Tool screen. To be honest, mine didn't work when I reinstalled Windows after changing out my motherboard, but it's supposed to be transferrable. If you sign in to your Microsoft account, it should be tied to your account and be no big deal. Worst case scenario, you have a watermark if it fails to activate. There are plenty of resellers that sell legit Windows keys for a pittance if you want to try your luck there.
I literally just put my OS drive in my new build and turned it on and it worked 😅😅
Some people have non transferable OEM licenses tied to the motherboard. You mention this at 14:50 but it really should be the first thing you check before doing anything with the hardware.
You should also be able to deactivate the product key from windows before you move your OS drive to another system. I know this works for win 10 and win 11 through the activation menu in the control panel. I've never tried it for an OEM license though... I'm pretty sure the deactivate option would be grayed out in that type of system.
Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. I have an official DVD with Win 10 PRO OEM and the key and I can't seem to figure out if I should just buy a new Win 11 key or if it's ok to try to transfer this Win 10 to the brand new build. It looks to me like I need to just buy a new Retail version but I hate to spend over a 100 bucks unnecessarily.
@@Faustustopheles
I would use windows 10 until the computer dies. You essentially have to gut all the bloat and trash out of 11 to make it usable and once you're done gutting 11 it is basically windows 10 with still more bloat.
Security patches are a meme. If the OS was good it wouldn't need auto updates--only the firewall would. The browser takes care of 90% of the security and the rest should be done at the router anyways.
Even easier if you just click troubleshoot. Won't work every time, but I've yet to have it fail. That will take you to an option to quickly transfer your license from old system to new system. EDIT: More specifically it will have an option for "upgraded hardware" to get to that license transfer option.
Great video Jay and perfect timing. Getting my son a new PC and he doesn't want to have to reinstall windows.
Saw this because I did it the other day. If I may…! Top tip. I use the boot key I have for my first build and my copy of windows 10. Recently upgraded from Z390 i7 to Z490 i9 I put it all together and purposely left out the drive and do a mock of the drive and windows troubleshooting. It’ll say it can’t but then you turn it off replace ya hard drive and it’ll set it all up never needing activation again. 💯⚡️👍 only cos ya know if Microsoft didn’t require me to have to disable half of it to not drop half fps cos they wanna sell me suttin I felt I’d share this with you.
Upgrading this week so this video came out at exactly the right time!
I remember back in the PATA days we used a pci Promise controller card for this purpose. You'd install the Promise card in the current system and let the OS install drivers for the card. Then you'd change motherboards and connect your hard drive to the Promise card in the new system. At that point it would boot up because it recognized the Promise card. Then the OS could find drivers for the IDE controller on the new motherboard. Then you'd power off, move the drive over to the motherboard controller, remove the Promise card from the system, and power back on. Definitely easier now.
02:08 lol he read my mind!
Always recommend to do a fresh load of Windows anytime you make major changes like that, yes it will work, but we have tested 100% of the time you will have stability or performance issues over time....seen so many customers come in and a fresh load of Windows fixes most problems.
Now do a video about cleaning the windows from old drivers to reinstall the new one.
I can’t believe Jay doesn’t have any seasoning power supplies! I think they are the best in the industry; even Corsair uses them for some of their power supplies.
THANK YOU, Jay. This is going to save me days of tweaks and configs when I got to AMD 9series
If I've learned anything from not having enough space to mount fans using washers as spacers comes in a lot of help.
I was kinda impressed how easy was to transfer a Windows NVMe from a 9600K system and put it on a 7700X, win11 took it like everyday and just recognized the new stuff and installed drivers, still working great after 6 months, just had to do the troubleshooting for the activation and update the hardware attached to my MS account
my digital window license tie with my Microsoft account outlook worth 3$ only, using for almost 7years from am4 w/ window 10pro to am5 w/ window 11pro. easy to transfer and activate.
Yep been using the same Windows Licence since I upgraded from my Windows 8 laptop to my PC just remember to remove your old PC from the account
I always figured if you needed a new MOBO best to just rebuild fresh
Saved this video for future mobo swap.
The end bit gave me a good chuckle :D
Looking forward to the next one :)
Okay, so the ram I assume is messing up because it was saved on the “starry night” mode or whatever it was called, if you installed any rgb software to control that rgb, aka gigabyte software (worst offender I’ve found) it will brick the profile on the ram entirely. If starry night is on it will do that, super niche issue but it happens really easy with any g.skill ram in personal experience. No fix other than to get new ram.
3d print some kind of fan mount extender to account for the jumbo graphics cards.
Definitely will look at this later when I need to update my sons set up this Christmas. Going from a SATA to an nvme
This video reminded me of the time that my dad tried to upgrade to windows 10 and thought that the UPC retail code on the box was the windows key and couldn't activate his PC until I went to visit.
Thanks for the video! I've been doing this since Windows Vista / Windows 7 and it always worked fine but everyone always told me: "No you shouldn't, the OS will run worse after this!" but nobody ever could back that up.
Throw drive in new system, update chipset drivers if it has changed, click troubleshoot in activation settings, select that you changed hardware, select your system. Done
12:08 - Was waiting for Jay to say "representative......representative.....REPRESENTATIVE!!!!"
Thanks for the very practical and useful video. I have done this recently and was surprised that it was so painless (even on a dual boot system where grub is in charge and windows is an add on for the handful of games that won't run in Linux).
If you setup a profile with your microsoft account, the windows "license" will be attached to you microsoft account. If you go to "activation" in settings it will say "such and such a license attached to your microsoft account". Then when you move the drive to a new board/machine, you click "troubleshoot" then select the options for "i recently changed my hardware". Then it will ask you to select which device associated with your account this is. Chose the computer (by computer name), and boom should activate. I've had it take a couple tries, but should work just fine. Never heard an issue moving drives OEM or otherwise.
Hello Jay,
Regarding the case and AIO placement, i think this would be the perfect task to use the 3d printer to print a spacer
excellent timing, upgrading my pc this weekend
Raise your hand if you think Windows 11 is garbage and those who made should be held accountable.
It's just a reskin of win 10
Not nearly as bad as windows 8!
Sometimes I think win 11 is actually win 9
Nothing can be worse than Windows 8.
Say for those in the back, man I don't want to upgrade but am forced to upgrade
whats your triceps mass-gaining workout?
looks immense!
He plays video game a lot.
He can haz chzburgers
rude
@@themice42 I am black, I can say what i want!
will this work on win10 pro?
Video starts here -> 11:20
wait. are you saying you have a non intell testbench?
I have done that myself drive from old to new board and no problems, Only time that need to consider a clean install of the OS when your drive needs to be replaced lol
I didn't even have to call in. When I switched to AM5 last year, I just slotted in my old drive, logged in as myself, installed all my new drivers with a USB, and I was good to go.
If you ever get a blue screen on install, what worked for me, was remove all additional drives before adding anything.
He did it the hard way. You just need to write down the computer name before the transfer. After, follow the activation troubleshooter and it'll ask if you recently changed hardware. Then it'll ask you the computer name to validate and transfer the activated key.
I've been on the same Windows 10 installation since Windows 10 came out in 2015 I have upgraded my system seven times complete hardware swaps never had a single issue just putting the drive into the next build
I would at least recommend going through and looking at hidden devices in Device Manager and uninstall the drivers that are greyed out. After you get back into Windows. You can ignore the shadow volume copies drivers and anything storage driver related. Doing this drops the likelihood of weird driver related issues popping. I’ve seen issues come up because someone didn’t go through and remove the old drivers from the system. 14:36
The new test bench is cool, but that final mod *chef's kiss*
you need to make a videos explain how to install drivers for a new build at the start of the Windows installation? You can't install Windows on a new motherboard with the Intel platform unless you bypass the internet connection or install the drivers at the start. before installing windows
You also could do a Video where you explain or show some tips if you want to do a fresh windows installation. Things like Ninite are really helpfull or maybe show something about saving and organizing important data on your drives etc....
Use plastic spacers for the fan to push it out a quarter or a half inch.
That test bench with the power distribution would make more sense if someone was swapping out entire motherboards frequently. The other bench seems better suited to what Jay does (swapping out and testing components like CPUs, memory, and GPUs) and the more open air design (without the PSU blocking air near the vrms) should be slightly better for ventilation… which I *think* would be desirable for benchmarking different components - or maybe it wouldn’t make a difference. I’m speculating.
I recently changed motherboard and my Windows 11 install was pretty messed up even after installing drivers for new hardware. Some GIFs didn't load on Facebook and Steam games refused to download. I'm sure there were other issues going on. All it took was noticing those two issues to realize my Windows install was now broken simply from changing motherboard. I had to format my SSDs and reinstall Windows. I recently dealt with the issue of Windows not being activated, but all I had to do was click troubleshoot, select my new device and Windows very quickly activated. I do have a Microsoft account. It helps to have one of those.
You can also use command prompt to uninstall windows key then when you build and boot the new pc you can just activate the key like you would the first time around
Can you do a build where you show where every single wire actually plugs into the motherboard at. Instead of the montage.
If the strix is just to see if cards fit, I'll happily take it off your hands, keep the cooler it'll do the same job 😃
Hi Jay, Whenever I build a new PC, I buy a retail copy of Windows. I call this the no-hassle approach. After all, the case is just a box you throw money into. Also, I don't own a smartphone. I'm really old school.