On Christmas Day 1963, my friend and I were cruising up PCH on the way to C Street in Ventura. When we past Malibu we noticed it was 2 and 3 with only about 6 people in the water. We made a quick U-turn, parked and headed out. On the way out, everybody came in except one person. For about an hour only 3 people surfing nice clean Malibu waves. How’s that for a terrific Christmas present.
Surfing has really turned into a shitshow in my lifetime... really takes some dedication and willingness to surf more novel type waves to have them to yourselves or with small crowds. Bummahz.
Ha, ha, I'm 64 and first surfed killer Dana point in 1965 when I was seven and then went on to surf southern cal and Hawaii till the late 80"s. Never was it crowded and no kooks out with their whole extended families.
It was the early 70’s and I was working an 8-5 $2.00 an hour job in East LA. Back then I could make it up to Malibu in around a half hour to be in the water before 6:00. No matter the conditions, unless it was completely flat, it was always a great time and never crowded by today’s standards. I’m thankful for those memories!
@@jeffshimkus9437 likewise for me, in the mid and late 70s paddling out Northside Huntington Beach Pier in Petaling out down in Newport Beach it hardly ever got crowded he had waves to yourself those were great days and like you said many great memories, nowadays it's become a fad and everybody's a surfer during the summer. Too many kooks
Great camera angles. Never seen one from the estuary, though the pier shots are perfect. Used to surf there and man, we thought it was crowded in the 70s.
Dang those are huge thanks for the vids I live in San Antonio texas and there is no surf here so I love watching these to remind me of what i am missing
The long lines from that swell were completely unforgiving at my local beach break. The jetty sandbar broke it up a little, producing some short reeling lefts but beyond my skill level. A long point like the 'Bu was the obvious call (hence the hoards of bodies in the water). Thanks for sharing. 🤙
After watching this video, I have more appreciation for my home-breaks, it's not the best in Southern California, but it's fun and people, at least most people followed the rules.
It’s like watching a bunch of drunken clowns fighting over the only available make up kit. Sickness, the lot of it but, fun to watch for awhile. Thanks.
surfing in socal is pretty whack now tbh , I hope the internet hasnt ruined most surf spots. I just want mid empty waves, saving what little I can to leave.
If you could live on an island with a beach just for you and you alone, what wave would you want to be there just for yourself. Like: Malibu, pipeline, shipsterns😂😂
Nothing like crowded conditions to spoil a nice day of good waves. I've ridden waves like this a few times including many years ago at a reef break that will remain unnamed, just me and three or four other people at most during the day. By the way, who is the beauty hanging hanging five at the 5:35 mark? Gorgeous and excellent surfer.
Love the camera angle! I’ve only ever surfed Malibu and Rincon 1x ( don’t live in SoCal) . Is it just me or is Rincon way less kooky? My only session there was no where near like this, and it was a good swell.
David , it’s warm water LA hodads splashing around on a soft but fast wave that breaks in a bath tub. Kook fest since 1960’s but lots of talent and the entire mix out there including naked man in the 80’s 90’s. Don’t know why but Nobody dropped in on him?
Great footage. But as for the surfing, all you can do is laugh and be happy we weren't out there getting frustrated as hell. Plus the Russian roulette of weaving between everyone paddling out. Not exactly a relaxing surf sesh. 🤣
Wow, I cant help but notice all the kooks just going for waves people are already riding. They can see them on the wave but still think its a good idea to just go.
I like the first angle but I don’t love it. Something in my stomach says no. I do like the Warren Miller esq style of narration however which helps carry me through the not “perfect” angle if there is such a thing. Angle at 6:35 if it was like 5-15 degrees more straight on I feel it would feel better.
@@latentsea SO I'm guessing 65-70 F - I'm in New Zealand and we are 15-17 Celsius so thinking about the same. We are having an Ocean heatwave in the Tasman Sea(between Oz and NZ) so our temps are a couple of degrees too high.
...you know Malibu is good when you take off at the river mouth and ride it all the way to the pier..........after a while you cutout at the second peak just so you don't have to paddle all the way back...........
On a really clean wave, i wouldnt be able to handle it. If I'm going to respect your guys's waves you need to respect mine. I have no problem waiting my turn even if it's a long wait, but once it's my turn in position it's my f****** turn.
Shit fight. Couldn't be bothered with any of that. Thankfully we dont have to deal with these sorts of crowds in NZ. Indonesia has gotten crazy busy also but uncrowded waves can be found easily. That looks a bloody nightmare
Great camera angle! I love it when somebody gets one all the way through by themselves! 🤙
Love your style with narration and mellow music, reminds me of Endless Summer, relaxing/fun to watch, a great break in my work day, thank you.
Surfing world-famous Surfrider Beach with 300 casual friends only gets better when you're waiting in the lineup...for the shower. Thanks, Brad !!
On Christmas Day 1963, my friend and I were cruising up PCH on the way to C Street in Ventura. When we past Malibu we noticed it was 2 and 3 with only about 6 people in the water. We made a quick U-turn, parked and headed out. On the way out, everybody came in except one person. For about an hour only 3 people surfing nice clean Malibu waves. How’s that for a terrific Christmas present.
Brad that was a crazy day. Thanks!!! When you’re a HB boy-16th. and Orange, Plastic Fantastic homey crowds are you’re culture-circa 1969 bro!!!
Bro that music !!!!! 1985 is over man : )
Nice Music! Beautiful...
Great angle thx brad
Surfing has really turned into a shitshow in my lifetime... really takes some dedication and willingness to surf more novel type waves to have them to yourselves or with small crowds. Bummahz.
I got 21 stitches in my hand surfing this day! Let’s just say a lot of people were out that shouldn’t have been
Ha, ha, I'm 64 and first surfed killer Dana point in 1965 when I was seven and then went on to surf southern cal and Hawaii till the late 80"s. Never was it crowded and no kooks out with their whole extended families.
just go ahead and say it, too many damn Kooks out in the water nowadays it has become frustrating and unsafe
It was the early 70’s and I was working an 8-5 $2.00 an hour job in East LA. Back then I could make it up to Malibu in around a half hour to be in the water before 6:00. No matter the conditions, unless it was completely flat, it was always a great time and never crowded by today’s standards. I’m thankful for those memories!
@@jeffshimkus9437 likewise for me, in the mid and late 70s paddling out Northside Huntington Beach Pier in Petaling out down in Newport Beach it hardly ever got crowded he had waves to yourself those were great days and like you said many great memories, nowadays it's become a fad and everybody's a surfer during the summer. Too many kooks
Hey brad. Most beautiful video youve made so far. Catching code red at malibu. That was a winner
Holly Dam !! - thousands of people each wave ! - but i think it was a joyfull day. Cheers Rio / Brazil.
Love that angle. Taro is so good…
Great camera angles. Never seen one from the estuary, though the pier shots are perfect. Used to surf there and man, we thought it was crowded in the 70s.
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUHHH minus the crowds that looks amazeballz
Awesome angle for sure ,and the bigger it gets ,the better the picture !!🤙
props to the bald guy at 5:30 - Looking like an accountant who is still getting out there and shredding waves
400mm is great because it included background and surroundings. 600mm is often overkill, only good for close up slow motion shots
SWEEEET! Nice coverage! Thanks
Dang those are huge thanks for the vids I live in San Antonio texas and there is no surf here so I love watching these to remind me of what i am missing
Sorry for your loss
@@RickyReneGarciaJr thank you
Thank for getting this, amazing video!
The long lines from that swell were completely unforgiving at my local beach break. The jetty sandbar broke it up a little, producing some short reeling lefts but beyond my skill level. A long point like the 'Bu was the obvious call (hence the hoards of bodies in the water). Thanks for sharing. 🤙
If my beach looked like this, I'm going back home.
Awesome perspective. Thanks for all the hard work🤙
Great shots.
After watching this video, I have more appreciation for my home-breaks, it's not the best in Southern California, but it's fun and people, at least most people followed the rules.
04:50 the angle i love the most. wish you will make a video compose only from theis angle. so beautiful to watch
Excellent angle mate!
I’m laid up following surfers ear surgery, enjoying your vids Brad. 🏴
Nice one Brad !
the pair angle is sick
Nice footage!!
Great vid bro. Best I've seen from S cali in a long time.
It’s like watching a bunch of drunken clowns fighting over the only available make up kit. Sickness, the lot of it but, fun to watch for awhile. Thanks.
Perfect video. Thanks.
Great footage!
Wonderful job making this vid!
Epic! you definitely have the best lens out there
Awesome content! So bummed I missed out this swell due to broken leg from skating. Uhhh. Psyched!
Great footage that has presentable & narrative knowledge of the sport & locations especially on the platform of RUclips. You should make a surf film.
Ahahaha the first kook. The people who surf Malibu by and large don’t deserve that wave.
8:35 is kookslams material
will you ever drop a skirmish/scuffle compilation? im sure you have some pretty good clips of some altercations. we need it Brad!
fight*
Nice work bro That's some of the best Malibu on video in a while Tell sorlo Lay off the cheese burgers
Just like the LA freeways!
What's Bobby Charlton doing out there?? (4:16, blue/green board)
Dodging kooks out at Malibu, is a skill only the smart kooks appreciate!🤙
I love your videos
What I like about you most is your cadence , it reminds me of Bruce Brown .
RIP Bruce, the real Bruce was a little different from his narrative work 🤣
Nice shape!
surfing in socal is pretty whack now tbh , I hope the internet hasnt ruined most surf spots. I just want mid empty waves, saving what little I can to leave.
I surfed Malibu almost everyday from 1993-98. Crowds are the same.
Awesome!
8:37 a perfectly formed wave that went hilariously unridden
If you could live on an island with a beach just for you and you alone, what wave would you want to be there just for yourself.
Like: Malibu, pipeline, shipsterns😂😂
Dude at 1:17 stopped on a banger?! What he doin?
Nothing like crowded conditions to spoil a nice day of good waves. I've ridden waves like this a few times including many years ago at a reef break that will remain unnamed, just me and three or four other people at most during the day. By the way, who is the beauty hanging hanging five at the 5:35 mark? Gorgeous and excellent surfer.
Great footage, the camera angle and crowds look abit like snapper.
I've never seen that many people NOT get snaked at Malibu...
Lol. Exactly my thoughts too
Love the camera angle! I’ve only ever surfed Malibu and Rincon 1x ( don’t live in SoCal) . Is it just me or is Rincon way less kooky? My only session there was no where near like this, and it was a good swell.
Probably because Malibu is a summer wave! More kooks everywhere 🙂
Yes. Malibu being closer to LA and more world famous. Plus Rincon has a lot sketchier zones IMO
@@scottmcwave9479 yeah the summer factor makes sense. Good point
David , it’s warm water LA hodads splashing around on a soft but fast wave that breaks in a bath tub. Kook fest since 1960’s but lots of talent and the entire mix out there including naked man in the 80’s 90’s. Don’t know why but Nobody dropped in on him?
this pie is like mince meat who wants a piece. thanks for the crII upload nonetheless
@4:41 inside second is the best wave on the point.
Ding repair company would work great there 😜
Great footage. But as for the surfing, all you can do is laugh and be happy we weren't out there getting frustrated as hell. Plus the Russian roulette of weaving between everyone paddling out. Not exactly a relaxing surf sesh. 🤣
A Premier Spot ~ this application now for Surfing / & Surfing Photography ! CAN YOU DIG IT TOO
?
Se ve genial.👍
Greatt.. good morning from bali
At the pro surf contest the pros get maybe 5 turns cutbacks etc.... sometimes a giant barrel... at Malibu you can get 15 or more
Wow, I cant help but notice all the kooks just going for waves people are already riding. They can see them on the wave but still think its a good idea to just go.
It's Malibu, way beyond critical mass :( ...the inevitable world norm.
I like the first angle but I don’t love it. Something in my stomach says no. I do like the Warren Miller esq style of narration however which helps carry me through the not “perfect” angle if there is such a thing. Angle at 6:35 if it was like 5-15 degrees more straight on I feel it would feel better.
Is it just me or did u see those two guys in the beginning that had a heavy wipeout
Awesome waves but what a human zoo!!
Jacob Atwood- Remember that name. The guy RIPS!!
Good camera angle, it certainly works. Must say, I'm really surprised mal riders don't use leg ropes out here!
They think they're soul surfers. 😂
Great video. Someone should be arrested for the drop-ins LOL!
Incredible video from the LA Zoo. Er Malibu. Some of the shots of flying boards and bodies made me cringe
Grab like that in Makaha, get lump up…Garenz.
LoL! I wonder how many people got stitches that day?? 🤕
4:40 Best wave surfed
I'm telling you Taro has to be on CT
@@tareksaba1ify That's Taro Watanabe but I'll look up that other guy
That floater was next level smooth
This is my new favorite angle for Malibu
How long is the wait between sets? Up here in NorCal sometimes it will be 10 plus minutes with no waves on those SW swells.
The next time you think your local break is crowded just rewind this video to put everything into proper perspective
No third point?
Anyone tell me what the water temp is there at the moment?
Pretty warm in a 4/3. Nice in a 3/2 . A bit chilly in a spring, cold in board shorts unless your are fat.
@@latentsea SO I'm guessing 65-70 F - I'm in New Zealand and we are 15-17 Celsius so thinking about the same. We are having an Ocean heatwave in the Tasman Sea(between Oz and NZ) so our temps are a couple of degrees too high.
61-63 degrees. A bit chilly for the no suiters. Tropical for the 4/3 Hold-outs.
Japanese current and Coriolis effect keep this latitude cool on west coast
Some decent surfers and a LOT of tryhard NPCs
Shooting from the pier is a really good angle
Was the guy with the Rising Sun surfboard murdered ?
Do they let you film on the pier ?
excellent surf footage. May I ask what your camera body/lens combo is
...you know Malibu is good when you take off at the river mouth and ride it all the way to the pier..........after a while you cutout at the second peak just so you don't have to paddle all the way back...........
Looks like Hawaii.
US open should be here instead of Closeout Huntington Pier.
On a really clean wave, i wouldnt be able to handle it. If I'm going to respect your guys's waves you need to respect mine. I have no problem waiting my turn even if it's a long wait, but once it's my turn in position it's my f****** turn.
I'm the same way. . It's seems like you need to mount a 50 cal on your board these days LOL to get people to follow the rules. . 🌊
Dig music🎶
So many just trying not to lose their board like back to week 1 learning to surf
The Wave Killer rips..
Shit fight. Couldn't be bothered with any of that. Thankfully we dont have to deal with these sorts of crowds in NZ. Indonesia has gotten crazy busy also but uncrowded waves can be found easily. That looks a bloody nightmare
Great waves, horrible crowd!
Wow
So much traffic!!
That does not look like fun at all. Just stressful.
Id much rather surf closeouts any day of the week. Plus I'd save on $10 per gallon of gas and a traffic filled drive up to kookabu
Koooook
I see the "I'm too cool for a leggie" crowd enjoys malibu too.
Those boards when loose should fair game for salvage rights..