Worked like a charm 2002 Toyota Avalon my boyfriend accidentally removed the break line when we were changing the break pads letting air in and causing soft pedal issues. I tried this to bleed the line because I didn’t have the tools necessary in other methods and it worked perfectly. Thanks a million for this gem. You’re a life saver
Just did It with my 08 honda, This is a life saver, I replaced my back driver side brakes but my caliper was giving me trouble so I disassembled the whole thing and re installed only to find out air got In i did this and It worked my brakes arent hitting the floor anymore and it feels great
Your video is great! It worked for me! I replaced both front brake hoses and had nothing but air. Following this worked like magic! Only thing that could have been left out was tightening the brake hose onto the caliper. So probably lots of the dislike comes from killing a bit of time by watching that at the beginning of the video.
Air being sucked in everytime pedal being released.. So yes u will have that hard as rock brake but the piston only push and wont have the slight movement back later..hence, ur pads gonna wear uneven later..sometimes jammed can occur too
Guys, just become someone says this works for them all the time, doesn't mean its the best way to do it. Air is still getting in everytime he releases the pedal, no matter how fast you release it. The best way is to have someone else pump it a few times and then hold the pedal down as you tighten it back up.
This isn't a good way to bleed the brakes. When you release the brake paddle you actualy suck air into the system. That's the reason why you should use a vaccuüm bleeder, the the two-man bleeder method or a cheap bottle. When you use the cheapest method the system won't fill up with air because air doesn't mix with fluid. Air in a brake system isn't air in fluid but above or in-between fluid.
By letting the caliper "gravity bleed" after the pedal pumping any air that may have been left it the caliper piston reservoir is most likely pushed out.
That’s what I was just thinking like wth but you can loosen the bleeder screw push the pedal all the way down tighten the screw and let the pedal come back up and repeat it again and again
@@gtrboyaws7495 That's true, but not easy if you want to do it all by yourself. If you only have a tube, you can also insert it into the brake fluid reservoir with the cap off. But if you do it like this you have to brake more because the reservoir is above the brakes. The easiest way is to fill an empty bottle with clean brake fluid. If you have ABS, you'll also need to bleed all the brakes you've been working on.
What I've done over the years is crack it to where I get a drip and it will gravity bleed for a couple hours. No pedal pumping or anything. Also works on clutches. Crack the bleeder and just let it drip and all the air will eventually work its way out.
Well, it works if the end of the like is on the highest point, if not, you just wasting time with both methods. Better stick a rubber hose to the bleeding screw ans use a bottle to receive the old one, thi way you won't have any bubbles going back up the line. Also, you always bleed the furthest beake first
Good video. The only thing I would caution against for novices watching is that you used too large of a wrench to tighten the banjo fitting bolt (not saying YOU are novice or over torqued). The bolt is hollow and has fine threads and is therefore NOT a high torque bolt. It should only be tightened to the MINIMUM torque needed to stop it from leaking. Best practice is to just snug it and then, if further tightening is needed to stop a leak, small increments of torque until the leak stops. Use a smaller (shorter) wrench so that it is more difficult to over torque. Over tightening is probably the most common mistake novice mechanics make. This particular bolt is much less tolerant of over torque.
I really needed to find this comment half an hour earlier 🤣 I had my big socket ratchet and was doing a Schwarzenegger bicep curl on it. I think I got away with it though (hope so anyway)
@@ryanmcleod972 Yeah, that one is pretty out in the weeds...until it happens to you. Fortunately it wouldn't have been too hard to find. There's a good reason why NAPA keeps plenty in supply. If you continue to work on your vehicles, plan on a lot more sh*t like that happening, here and there along the way. You see this same mistake when people work on carburetors or throttle bodies, the small screws under dashboards. Small, fine thread bolts, EZ does it. Even with a small wrench, don't lean into them.
This was awesome dude i didnt have to make a stupid tool with a soda bottle, and my 3 yr old daughter helped me a little. I owe you for this awesome dad moment
This method is not effective as arnold mentioned below. Every time you release the pedal, you will be sucking air back into the caliper. The hose and bottle method is shown all over youtube and is the proper way for ONE person to bleed brakes because you are sealing the caliper off from air by attaching a snug fitting hose and submerging the other end in the bottle under the fluid level. Once the hose is filled and no more bubbles are present when the pedal is pressed, tighten the bleeder and youre done.
I would think the hose bottle method works even if the bleed screw REMAINS OPEN during the pump/release process. The system is CLOSED. When the pedal is released, FLUID FROM THE BOTTLE (NOT AIR) will be drawn back into the brake wheel cylinder. Just pump the pedal several times. But...CHECK the reservoir!!! I'd suspect maybe 1/2" fluid in a coke bottle is a good starting point. IOW: you need to be sure the reservoir does not go dry.low. NOTE: I'VE NOT TRIED THIS IDEA...IT MAY BE FLAWED. I'd like to avoid the 'cycle' I mentioned above!!! What a pain...especially hard on my KNEES and JOINTS! Up..down..up..down, OUCH!!!
It worked for me and I was thinking there has to be something simple to do this cause I couldn't find someone to operate breaks while I do the bleeder valve,and didn't have any hose that fit,thanks for the vid and I just subscribed
Damn , this video should have more likes than it has. Been backyarding for 50+ years, and never heard of this method. Now I do not have to wait for the wife to wake up. 30 degrees and drizzle here I come.
The fact that I had to watch half a dozen videos before finding this shows just how much Big Brake Bleeding Tools is working to block the obviously correct way to do this. Why have special tools when it can be done without?
Your method is ok but I would just put a pipe (windscreen washer hose is cheapest) on the bleed nipple with the other end sitting in the bottom of a bottle. That way only fluid gets sucked back in & not air. Still a one man method.
Brake line should have been clamped off before detaching from caliper. This technique won't work with antilock brakes and has a high probability of letting air in through the bleeder valve that will travel upward through the fluid back toward the master cylinder, and won't be apparent until the car is driven for a while.(symptom: the pedal will travel much futher, even bottoming.)
P Schmied so you would compromise an old brake line by pinching it off? It does work with abs, that Caravan I did it on has abs and the brakes work good months later.
I pinched off the line prior to changing out rear calipers. I then did similar to this video. Can you explain why you say it would not work for anti lock brakes?
If air gets into the HCU unit with hydro-boost assisted brakes it will not quite work this way ill tell ya that for a fact brotha man lol but hey whatever works in a pinch
I really appreciate how-to videos! Following your channel now - would love to see something about replacing carpet in the cargo space of my Dodge Grand Caravan! I own a cleaning service and accidentally spilled bleach, causing the carpet to disintegrate!
Most automotive interiors and beauty items are what I call story book repairs. I have a manual(based on a complete tear down & rebuild) camera, always a note book. Begin where ever the manual does, if no manual wing it. Use the camera and pad to document how you removed the carpet regardless of the manual. You will quickly learn what worked and did not. Anything mechanical is pretty much the same. Educate with online info, manuals, even dare I say car shows on the idiot box. Take notes take your time and soon you will be able to do anything. Make friends in yet hood sometimes the old quiet guy or gal that does everything themselves will pop up. I learned upholstery by volunteering to work for free at an upholstery shop. They appreciated the help cleaning up and I learned by watching then trial and error.
Yep. Get a $2 length of hose from Home Depot and an old bottle. Connect hose to bleeder, put it in the bottle. Pump until there is sufficient fluid in the bottle so that it's sucking brake fluid back in, not air. "No special tools" whatever - it's a $2 piece of hose to do it correctly.
im going to bleed my brakes for the first time and after watching so many videos. This method seems a bit off. The spray bottle method seems more ideal. But i bought the kit to do it already.
question for you. by leaving the bleeder valve open after you pump the brake pedal fast aren't you letting air in while you go to tighten the bleeder valve? otherwise this seems pretty simple. thanks for you video. one last question and that is I assume you start with back passenger and work your way to front driver side correct? Thanks again
Danny Montoya the caliper was empty so pumping the brakes with the bleeder open was just to get fluid into it. What little air that got into the caliper was ejected after the second round of pumping and opening the bleeder. I only replaced that caliper so I didn't need to bleed the rest of the system but you are correct in that process.
Wicked Spray , thanks for getting back to me so quickly! ! ! what all do you cover on your RUclips page/account? I have been slowly restoring my 66 Mustang. also another quick question is this..... I put disc brakes on the front & left drums in the back. I have a dual bowl master cylinder and my question is this. I bleed the brakes this morning and when I got to the driver side front NO fluid or air came out bb what so ever. Any thoughts on what t could be? look forward to hearing from you!!!!!
my Channel will mostly be Mechanics, electric diagnosis and auto body/painting. Seems like the electrical engine control/troubleshooting is getting the most view, but if there is something you'd like to see let me know and I'll see what I can do. Your brake question....the first thing I would do is disconnect the brake line from the caliper and see if the fluid is making it that far. It should be dripping out of the brake line pretty good, if not could be a restriction in the line. If it has a rubber brake line they can break down on the inside and cause a restriction even though they look good from the outside. Might want to use a hand held vacuum pump on that bleeder and see if you can get fluid to pull through. Harbor Freight has them cheap.
one more thing. I've only used this brake bleeding procedure when i'm just working on 1 or 2 brakes, doing them one at a time. I've never tried this bleeding the whole system. I usually use a vacuum pump for that.
Wicked Spray Here is my problem. I am not sure if I stated it yet. I have a 66 mustang and I put disc brakes on the front. When I went to bleed them all 3 bleed but the last one didn't, the driver side front. Not sure what to do. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks for hitting me back.
Gravity bleed but that doesn't work so well on day the passenger rear brake it does but it takes a lot longer an old guy taught me this trick take a piece of hose put it on the bleeder that's open put the hose into idk a jar with some fluid in it make sure the hose is down in the fluid pump the pedal nice and easy till theres no more bubbles coming out of the hose it works much faster than gravity bleeding
This approach is wrong. By releasing the brake pedal with the bleeder valve open, you are sucking air back into the line. You should delete this video - it's just wrong.
You still have air in the lines. You have got most of the air out but not all of it. Your brakes will work fairly good but not the best. And a few more feet of stopping distance can be life or death. Just go ahead and bleed the right to begin with and don't be an idiot.
Worked like a charm 2002 Toyota Avalon my boyfriend accidentally removed the break line when we were changing the break pads letting air in and causing soft pedal issues. I tried this to bleed the line because I didn’t have the tools necessary in other methods and it worked perfectly. Thanks a million for this gem. You’re a life saver
oops, I hope you got the brakes up and running again. this is a great method, I used it recently.
Thank you, thank you, you have saved my day, may God bless you and your family and give you more wisdom and knowledge.
Used this method and it worked, right after I bought a vacuum pump...package still unopened so returning it. THANKS ALOT!!!
Just did It with my 08 honda, This is a life saver, I replaced my back driver side brakes but my caliper was giving me trouble so I disassembled the whole thing and re installed only to find out air got In i did this and It worked my brakes arent hitting the floor anymore and it feels great
Your video is great! It worked for me! I replaced both front brake hoses and had nothing but air. Following this worked like magic! Only thing that could have been left out was tightening the brake hose onto the caliper. So probably lots of the dislike comes from killing a bit of time by watching that at the beginning of the video.
Air being sucked in everytime pedal being released.. So yes u will have that hard as rock brake but the piston only push and wont have the slight movement back later..hence, ur pads gonna wear uneven later..sometimes jammed can occur too
Guys, just become someone says this works for them all the time, doesn't mean its the best way to do it.
Air is still getting in everytime he releases the pedal, no matter how fast you release it.
The best way is to have someone else pump it a few times and then hold the pedal down as you tighten it back up.
I saw this video and i tell ya this is as simple as Counting the fingers on your hand. Way to go Man. Thanks for posting this Video .THUMBS UP.
This isn't a good way to bleed the brakes.
When you release the brake paddle you actualy suck air into the system.
That's the reason why you should use a vaccuüm bleeder, the the two-man bleeder method or a cheap bottle.
When you use the cheapest method the system won't fill up with air because air doesn't mix with fluid.
Air in a brake system isn't air in fluid but above or in-between fluid.
Agreed!
By letting the caliper "gravity bleed" after the pedal pumping any air that may have been left it the caliper piston reservoir is most likely pushed out.
@@x-man5056 mmm
That’s what I was just thinking like wth but you can loosen the bleeder screw push the pedal all the way down tighten the screw and let the pedal come back up and repeat it again and again
@@gtrboyaws7495
That's true, but not easy if you want to do it all by yourself.
If you only have a tube, you can also insert it into the brake fluid reservoir with the cap off.
But if you do it like this you have to brake more because the reservoir is above the brakes.
The easiest way is to fill an empty bottle with clean brake fluid.
If you have ABS, you'll also need to bleed all the brakes you've been working on.
What I've done over the years is crack it to where I get a drip and it will gravity bleed for a couple hours. No pedal pumping or anything. Also works on clutches. Crack the bleeder and just let it drip and all the air will eventually work its way out.
His method only took minutes, yours takes hours 🤷🏾♂️
Well, it works if the end of the like is on the highest point, if not, you just wasting time with both methods. Better stick a rubber hose to the bleeding screw ans use a bottle to receive the old one, thi way you won't have any bubbles going back up the line. Also, you always bleed the furthest beake first
I just did a front brake replacement. Great tips here for bleeding. Thanks
Good video.
The only thing I would caution against for novices watching is that you used too large of a wrench to tighten the banjo fitting bolt (not saying YOU are novice or over torqued). The bolt is hollow and has fine threads and is therefore NOT a high torque bolt. It should only be tightened to the MINIMUM torque needed to stop it from leaking.
Best practice is to just snug it and then, if further tightening is needed to stop a leak, small increments of torque until the leak stops. Use a smaller (shorter) wrench so that it is more difficult to over torque. Over tightening is probably the most common mistake novice mechanics make. This particular bolt is much less tolerant of over torque.
I really needed to find this comment half an hour earlier 🤣 I had my big socket ratchet and was doing a Schwarzenegger bicep curl on it. I think I got away with it though (hope so anyway)
@@ryanmcleod972 Yeah, that one is pretty out in the weeds...until it happens to you. Fortunately it wouldn't have been too hard to find. There's a good reason why NAPA keeps plenty in supply. If you continue to work on your vehicles, plan on a lot more sh*t like that happening, here and there along the way. You see this same mistake when people work on carburetors or throttle bodies, the small screws under dashboards. Small, fine thread bolts, EZ does it. Even with a small wrench, don't lean into them.
This was awesome dude i didnt have to make a stupid tool with a soda bottle, and my 3 yr old daughter helped me a little. I owe you for this awesome dad moment
This does work. My first time changing my brakes on my Pontiac G6 and man this video came in clutch.
This method is not effective as arnold mentioned below. Every time you release the pedal, you will be sucking air back into the caliper. The hose and bottle method is shown all over youtube and is the proper way for ONE person to bleed brakes because you are sealing the caliper off from air by attaching a snug fitting hose and submerging the other end in the bottle under the fluid level. Once the hose is filled and no more bubbles are present when the pedal is pressed, tighten the bleeder and youre done.
I would think the hose bottle method works even if the bleed screw REMAINS OPEN during the pump/release process. The system is CLOSED. When the pedal is released, FLUID FROM THE BOTTLE (NOT AIR) will be drawn back into the brake wheel cylinder. Just pump the pedal several times. But...CHECK the reservoir!!! I'd suspect maybe 1/2" fluid in a coke bottle is a good starting point. IOW: you need to be sure the reservoir does not go dry.low. NOTE: I'VE NOT TRIED THIS IDEA...IT MAY BE FLAWED. I'd like to avoid the 'cycle' I mentioned above!!! What a pain...especially hard on my KNEES and JOINTS! Up..down..up..down, OUCH!!!
Just did it in my 2011 Town & Country! Thank you!
It worked for me and I was thinking there has to be something simple to do this cause I couldn't find someone to operate breaks while I do the bleeder valve,and didn't have any hose that fit,thanks for the vid and I just subscribed
Did this today worked perfectly, thanks for the video.
G'day, any issues with those brakes of yours 9 months down the track?
Damn , this video should have more likes than it has. Been backyarding for 50+ years, and never heard of this method. Now I do not have to wait for the wife to wake up. 30 degrees and drizzle here I come.
Good video! I have the same stool, just fixed the wheel casters on it... Best of luck! Us small channels need it... Pappy
Yeah. LOL those casters don't last to long. The rest of the seat isn't to bad.
The fact that I had to watch half a dozen videos before finding this shows just how much Big Brake Bleeding Tools is working to block the obviously correct way to do this. Why have special tools when it can be done without?
Your method is ok but I would just put a pipe (windscreen washer hose is cheapest) on the bleed nipple with the other end sitting in the bottom of a bottle. That way only fluid gets sucked back in & not air. Still a one man method.
This worked! I was able to get my Subie back on the road! Thanks!
Brake line should have been clamped off before detaching from caliper. This technique won't work with antilock brakes and has a high probability of letting air in through the bleeder valve that will travel upward through the fluid back toward the master cylinder, and won't be apparent until the car is driven for a while.(symptom: the pedal will travel much futher, even bottoming.)
P Schmied so you would compromise an old brake line by pinching it off? It does work with abs, that Caravan I did it on has abs and the brakes work good months later.
I pinched off the line prior to changing out rear calipers. I then did similar to this video. Can you explain why you say it would not work for anti lock brakes?
If air gets into the HCU unit with hydro-boost assisted brakes it will not quite work this way ill tell ya that for a fact brotha man lol but hey whatever works in a pinch
Worked like a charm..god bless u
Hmmm not sure about this method?
Am I doing something wrong? I didn’t hear and see a thing while trying this and I’ve got an 02 car🤷🏻
First off thank you
Secondly I only charged the left calliper should I just do one or I have to do all 4 ? Anyone please help
Aren't u supposed to keep the reservoir lid open while doing this? New fluid won't get in otherwise, as u are creating a vaccum in the reservoir.
I really appreciate how-to videos! Following your channel now - would love to see something about replacing carpet in the cargo space of my Dodge Grand Caravan! I own a cleaning service and accidentally spilled bleach, causing the carpet to disintegrate!
give me a little time and I'll post a video for you. I got a 2003 dodge grand caravan.
Most automotive interiors and beauty items are what I call story book repairs.
I have a manual(based on a complete tear down & rebuild) camera, always a note book.
Begin where ever the manual does, if no manual wing it. Use the camera and pad to document how you removed the carpet regardless of the manual.
You will quickly learn what worked and did not.
Anything mechanical is pretty much the same.
Educate with online info, manuals, even dare I say car shows on the idiot box.
Take notes take your time and soon you will be able to do anything.
Make friends in yet hood sometimes the old quiet guy or gal that does everything themselves will pop up.
I learned upholstery by volunteering to work for free at an upholstery shop. They appreciated the help cleaning up and I learned by watching then trial and error.
Absolutely the worst way to bleed brakes and I can assure you it DID not work. Air went back into the lines as soon as jet let of the brake.
Nope. If you do it right, that won't happen.
Yep. Get a $2 length of hose from Home Depot and an old bottle. Connect hose to bleeder, put it in the bottle. Pump until there is sufficient fluid in the bottle so that it's sucking brake fluid back in, not air.
"No special tools" whatever - it's a $2 piece of hose to do it correctly.
Worked like a charm
Great tutorial.Good for my boyfriend.
I wouldn't trust that procedure... personal preference i guess.
..and when you wipe up the brake fluid you get a clean floor too!
What size wrench for bleeder?
Releasing the pedal with the valve open is sucking air in the system not a good way to bleed your brakes
im going to bleed my brakes for the first time and after watching so many videos. This method seems a bit off. The spray bottle method seems more ideal. But i bought the kit to do it already.
Super helpful man keep it up!
Now I know a little about cars! 😊 Thanks for the support. 👍
👍 Useful info, thanks!
Worked like a charm on my 04 sport trac. Thx brother!!
Thanks for the video ®️🤺
How does it not suck air back in?
question for you. by leaving the bleeder valve open after you pump the brake pedal fast aren't you letting air in while you go to tighten the bleeder valve? otherwise this seems pretty simple. thanks for you video. one last question and that is I assume you start with back passenger and work your way to front driver side correct? Thanks again
Danny Montoya the caliper was empty so pumping the brakes with the bleeder open was just to get fluid into it. What little air that got into the caliper was ejected after the second round of pumping and opening the bleeder. I only replaced that caliper so I didn't need to bleed the rest of the system but you are correct in that process.
Wicked Spray ,
thanks for getting back to me so quickly! ! ! what all do you cover on your RUclips page/account? I have been slowly restoring my 66 Mustang. also another quick question is this..... I put disc brakes on the front & left drums in the back. I have a dual bowl master cylinder and my question is this. I bleed the brakes this morning and when I got to the driver side front NO fluid or air came out bb what so ever. Any thoughts on what t could be? look forward to hearing from you!!!!!
my Channel will mostly be Mechanics, electric diagnosis and auto body/painting. Seems like the electrical engine control/troubleshooting is getting the most view, but if there is something you'd like to see let me know and I'll see what I can do. Your brake question....the first thing I would do is disconnect the brake line from the caliper and see if the fluid is making it that far. It should be dripping out of the brake line pretty good, if not could be a restriction in the line. If it has a rubber brake line they can break down on the inside and cause a restriction even though they look good from the outside. Might want to use a hand held vacuum pump on that bleeder and see if you can get fluid to pull through. Harbor Freight has them cheap.
one more thing. I've only used this brake bleeding procedure when i'm just working on 1 or 2 brakes, doing them one at a time. I've never tried this bleeding the whole system. I usually use a vacuum pump for that.
Wicked Spray
Here is my problem. I am not sure if I stated it yet. I have a 66 mustang and I put disc brakes on the front. When I went to bleed them all 3 bleed but the last one didn't, the driver side front. Not sure what to do. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks for hitting me back.
Thank you.
Worked great for me
Great vid
Gravity bleed but that doesn't work so well on day the passenger rear brake it does but it takes a lot longer an old guy taught me this trick take a piece of hose put it on the bleeder that's open put the hose into idk a jar with some fluid in it make sure the hose is down in the fluid pump the pedal nice and easy till theres no more bubbles coming out of the hose it works much faster than gravity bleeding
So how did the test drive go??
This approach is wrong. By releasing the brake pedal with the bleeder valve open, you are sucking air back into the line. You should delete this video - it's just wrong.
What if I tightened the screw before releasing the pedal and repeating the process
I recognize the kitty litter, but you lost me after hooking the line up. lol.
Seems easy enough. Thanks for the info!
You still have air in the lines. You have got most of the air out but not all of it. Your brakes will work fairly good but not the best. And a few more feet of stopping distance can be life or death. Just go ahead and bleed the right to begin with and don't be an idiot.
WRNING DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME REALLY!!!!
When I see a pile of kitty litter on the ground to start off a video, I’m out.
What else would you suggest using to soak up any spills? You must not work on cars much.
Does he do this with the car on or off?
off
good job
BRILLIANT
no efin way..lmao
wrong wrong wrong!