Not really but it could be left over from bleeding. Clean the dust boot with a little brake clean or denatured alcohol both inside and out. Make sure it looks dry. Then put it back and check it in a few days to see if it looks wet with brake fluid. If it does the new slave is leaking or something is leaking on the boot from up above. If it's dry then the wetness was left over residue from the replacement.
@@DrivelineMaster thank you, I think I’ll do that. A few years ago my clutch pedal went to the floor and my father helped me replace the master and slave. Before it failed my clutch felt great, after replacing and bleeding it technically worked but would stick to the floor if pressed for a few seconds, been driving like that for a few years but last month it would barely go into gear and the pedal would stick badly. I’ve done a full clutch replacement besides the master because it’s never leaked. The new slave works but does the same as before, presses the clutch fork but but slowly releases, I think the master isn’t working properly but I’m on my own this time, if I can drop the transmission with a small jack I should be able to to solve this problem. Thank you for your advice.
@@LowLifeMazda It kind of sounds like there is an air bubble trapped in the master someplace. Also there is an adjustment where the master connects to the pedal. Make sure that is adjusted so the piston for the master fully returns and seats against the snap ring. there should be about 1/32" wiggle between the master rod and the piston when it is seated against the snap ring. Some masters sit at an odd angle. These are super hard to bleed and then often need to be bench bleed before installing. There is another bleeding trick by creating a vacuum in the master reservoir. I use a mighty vac tool and fabricate a cap that fits tight on the reservoir. a vacuum is created making sure not to suck fluid into the mighty vac. slowly operator the clutch pedal a few time. This can sometimes remove suborn air bubbles. Other things that could cause the pedal to stick to the floor can be a flywheel that has been machined too much, a damaged or bent release fork or a damaged or worn down pivot ball. I had one master that wouldn't give it up no matter how much I bleed it. I ended up removing the master and taking it all apart. cleaning, reassemble, bench bleed, reinstall and bleed again. it finally worked as it should.
@@DrivelineMaster great advice thank you. Didn’t look into anything today had to take a step back and take a day off, working everyday on it for weeks with not much to show besides some shiny parts put on. I noticed the clutch fork looked straight and fine but before reinstalling my transmission I took notice on how far the fork travel was on the shaft, after installing I noticed that the travel was rather “long” with only about 1” and a half to 2 inches of room left when it hit the clutch plate (probably not the cause, I just recently started paying attention to such things as I do more driving then repair work). Installing the new slave it was a tight fit as it seemed to be but seemed to be because of the boot being compressed, not sure if to much travel in the piston can cause a leak or not but after bleeding it would compress past where it meets the clutch. I don’t think my problem lies with something bent or broken because one night I went for a drive and everything was the same, next morning I noticed it was harder to get into gear but got much worse throughout the day. I checked my master fluid and it was very black, I’ve replaced the soft lines besides one and replaced the fluid little over a year ago. I bled the new slave with about 5-6 master cylinder reservoirs full and cleaned the reservoir, whenever topping with new fluid to bleed it just looked black aswell. I’ll investigate the slave and replace the master to see what changes, I want to say this is an older video,I appreciate you taking the time to read and and provide your feedback and help, much appreciated.👍
@@LowLifeMazda I don't mind helping out. It really does sound like some weird air trapped. Maybe a funky master cylinder or the connecting rod from the master to the pedal is misadjusted.
Many people get fluid contamination from the damper or clutch hose rubber going bad.... That's why I was having to replace a slave cylinder every 6 months...
Do you have an aftermarket clutch disc and pressure plate? A pressure plate with stronger spring tension puts additional stress on the hydraulic system which can cause hydraulic component failure. If that is not the case then next time the slave is replaced I would replace the master cylinder and all flex hose lines. I would flush the steel lines before installing the new parts. The flex hose lines can be deteriorating from the inside out and introducing contaminates into the fluid which can cause slave and master failure.
@@DrivelineMaster I'm definitely going to start flushing more often Especially in the cold weather....... I replaced the master n slaved today as a matching pair and I flushed it about 8 times..Luk.....brand..... The flare nut is frozen solid on some of the hydraulic lines next to the slave cylinder I can't even replace it I tried propane torch it just won't budge... Anyways the truck shifts like butter and all 5 gears I don't see any leaks...thanks
Luk master /slave..... Install 2 days ago perfect shifting got up this morning warmed up the motor it's all gone away it's back to really notchy again it must have a leak somewhere or something to do with luk brand.... Maybe there is a leak somewhere
The hydraulic line connected to the slave cylinder is Rubber and deteriorating I tried to replace it but the flare nut is leaking There is some very small scratch marks at the very top of the flair on the hard line.....? Leaks bad cant drive
Bummer. You may have to take it to a shop to have the steel line replaced. You can buy sections of various lengths of steel line but if you need a specific size or shape a qualified technician can cut, bend and re-flair a steel hydraulic line.
Clear and precise video.Brilliant 👍
Thanks for validating my work.
5:09 Good video, clear, makes everything extremely easy. Thank You and congrats.
Awesome video
Just replaced my slave cylinder with a brand new one, and there is a slight trace of fluid outside the dust boot. Is this normal?
Not really but it could be left over from bleeding. Clean the dust boot with a little brake clean or denatured alcohol both inside and out. Make sure it looks dry. Then put it back and check it in a few days to see if it looks wet with brake fluid. If it does the new slave is leaking or something is leaking on the boot from up above. If it's dry then the wetness was left over residue from the replacement.
@@DrivelineMaster thank you, I think I’ll do that. A few years ago my clutch pedal went to the floor and my father helped me replace the master and slave. Before it failed my clutch felt great, after replacing and bleeding it technically worked but would stick to the floor if pressed for a few seconds, been driving like that for a few years but last month it would barely go into gear and the pedal would stick badly. I’ve done a full clutch replacement besides the master because it’s never leaked. The new slave works but does the same as before, presses the clutch fork but but slowly releases, I think the master isn’t working properly but I’m on my own this time, if I can drop the transmission with a small jack I should be able to to solve this problem. Thank you for your advice.
@@LowLifeMazda It kind of sounds like there is an air bubble trapped in the master someplace. Also there is an adjustment where the master connects to the pedal. Make sure that is adjusted so the piston for the master fully returns and seats against the snap ring. there should be about 1/32" wiggle between the master rod and the piston when it is seated against the snap ring. Some masters sit at an odd angle. These are super hard to bleed and then often need to be bench bleed before installing. There is another bleeding trick by creating a vacuum in the master reservoir. I use a mighty vac tool and fabricate a cap that fits tight on the reservoir. a vacuum is created making sure not to suck fluid into the mighty vac. slowly operator the clutch pedal a few time. This can sometimes remove suborn air bubbles. Other things that could cause the pedal to stick to the floor can be a flywheel that has been machined too much, a damaged or bent release fork or a damaged or worn down pivot ball. I had one master that wouldn't give it up no matter how much I bleed it. I ended up removing the master and taking it all apart. cleaning, reassemble, bench bleed, reinstall and bleed again. it finally worked as it should.
@@DrivelineMaster great advice thank you. Didn’t look into anything today had to take a step back and take a day off, working everyday on it for weeks with not much to show besides some shiny parts put on. I noticed the clutch fork looked straight and fine but before reinstalling my transmission I took notice on how far the fork travel was on the shaft, after installing I noticed that the travel was rather “long” with only about 1” and a half to 2 inches of room left when it hit the clutch plate (probably not the cause, I just recently started paying attention to such things as I do more driving then repair work). Installing the new slave it was a tight fit as it seemed to be but seemed to be because of the boot being compressed, not sure if to much travel in the piston can cause a leak or not but after bleeding it would compress past where it meets the clutch. I don’t think my problem lies with something bent or broken because one night I went for a drive and everything was the same, next morning I noticed it was harder to get into gear but got much worse throughout the day. I checked my master fluid and it was very black, I’ve replaced the soft lines besides one and replaced the fluid little over a year ago. I bled the new slave with about 5-6 master cylinder reservoirs full and cleaned the reservoir, whenever topping with new fluid to bleed it just looked black aswell. I’ll investigate the slave and replace the master to see what changes, I want to say this is an older video,I appreciate you taking the time to read and and provide your feedback and help, much appreciated.👍
@@LowLifeMazda I don't mind helping out. It really does sound like some weird air trapped. Maybe a funky master cylinder or the connecting rod from the master to the pedal is misadjusted.
Many people get fluid contamination from the damper or clutch hose rubber going bad.... That's why I was having to replace a slave cylinder every 6 months...
My slave cylinder fails every 6 months?? Anybody have any ideas
Do you have an aftermarket clutch disc and pressure plate? A pressure plate with stronger spring tension puts additional stress on the hydraulic system which can cause hydraulic component failure. If that is not the case then next time the slave is replaced I would replace the master cylinder and all flex hose lines. I would flush the steel lines before installing the new parts. The flex hose lines can be deteriorating from the inside out and introducing contaminates into the fluid which can cause slave and master failure.
@@DrivelineMaster I'm definitely going to start flushing more often Especially in the cold weather....... I replaced the master n slaved today as a matching pair and I flushed it about 8 times..Luk.....brand..... The flare nut is frozen solid on some of the hydraulic lines next to the slave cylinder I can't even replace it I tried propane torch it just won't budge...
Anyways the truck shifts like butter and all 5 gears I don't see any leaks...thanks
What are you flushing with? Denatured alcohol followed by brake fluid is what should be used.
@@DrivelineMaster I flushed it with synthetic brake fluid dot 3.....
OK, just an FYI. All brake fluid is synthetic. Not all systems have a rubber hose but if you have one, you should replace it.
Luk master /slave..... Install 2 days ago perfect shifting got up this morning warmed up the motor it's all gone away it's back to really notchy again it must have a leak somewhere or something to do with luk brand.... Maybe there is a leak somewhere
Bummer. If the fluid is gone it has to be a leak. If your fluid is still full it has to be a defective part. LUK is normally a good brand.
The hydraulic line connected to the slave cylinder is Rubber and deteriorating I tried to replace it but the flare nut is leaking There is some very small scratch marks at the very top of the flair on the hard line.....? Leaks bad cant drive
Bummer. You may have to take it to a shop to have the steel line replaced. You can buy sections of various lengths of steel line but if you need a specific size or shape a qualified technician can cut, bend and re-flair a steel hydraulic line.
@@DrivelineMaster Im the shop....now.....
@@DrivelineMaster Parker flare seals inserts fixed it....