Model A Ford Project... Sandblasting the gas tank and firewall! Welding rust holes in the gas tank!
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- Опубликовано: 6 янв 2025
- I made some progress this week on the 1928 Model A traditional hot rod project!
In this video, I did some sandblasting, and TIG welded up a few holes in the gas tank!
In the next video, rust repair will continue. I will start on the doors soon! There's plenty to do! Thanks for watching! Thanks for subscribing! Please leave a comment!
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All of it turns into a pile of work but we forget about that once we jump in and go out on the first ride, nice job 👌
I'm ready for that first ride already! But, there's a long way to go.
Good job, looking forward to the next video
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Nice clean job of saving the tank. Your approach to repairs is the true hot rodder way to do it. Saving the old tin is the idea of hot rodding.
Thanks for sharing your work.
Rick
Thanks for the comments Rick. I'm real happy with the way everything is turning out. There wasn't much to work with on this car, but the dream of seeing it done is what keeps a hotrodder going..
@@phillipshotrodgarage I agree 100% , as my '29 Model A p/u was just that. A frame (bare) a cab, p/u bed & 2 front fenders. I am going through & assessing my plan of attack.
I'd love to build a roadster pickup someday. Well, any roadster really.
Slow and steady pace wins the race! Good job
Lots of patience is a must for sure.
With each piece you keep getting closer to finishing all the metal work.
There's a long way to go, but I'm so far from where I started. Thanks for watching!
For some parts use a 55 gal plastic barrel and Sulfuric Acid water mix to clean
Sounds like a good idea. I'll look into that. I tried some muratic acid a while back. It works, but it was slower than I expected.
That sandblasting can be a pain in the butt with bigger panels. Dirty work and in some cases it can stretch your panels.
I have used citric acid on those with good results. Just get a container where your piece can fit, 5% mixture of acid and water, sunk the piece in mixture for 24 hrs, rinse it( i have used powerwasher for rinsing).
If there is rust left, give an another 24 hrs bath, rinse & check it again. If it is good, dry it with heatgun, some metal prep and you are done. That citric acid is a food grade product, so its not a toxic stuff for the enviroment. It takes some more time than sandblasting, but its healthier way to clean parts, than inhaling small sandparticles. And its reusable too, you can use that stuff for many baths.
That sounds like something I need to try. I have cleaned smaller parts with evaporust with success. I've also tried molasses, and it worked great, just stinky and slow. It's safe for the environment, so that's a plus. It just takes too long. Sandblasting is good for the smaller parts, and thick, curved panels like the gas tank, but door skins, hoods, and quarter panels really need a different solution. I'm going to remove the quarter panels, and I'd like to soak them instead of blasting. I'll look into the citric acid and see if it's a good option. thanks for the reply. I appreciate it.
@@phillipshotrodgarage Yeah, i have heard of that molasses too, but it takes some time and i have no idea where to get it in here. The biggest piece i have cleaned with citric acid was an '51 Ford hood, it worked nicely, but i had to make a huge batch for that job. I am sure that it will be a perfect choice for the quarterpanels, The container for those might cause some head scratching, but i am sure you'll figure something out. Here's a video how that stuff works: ruclips.net/video/ckdMdiJlV7c/видео.html
@@1fknhpycmpr355 the quarter panels lay pretty flat when laid down, so I’m guessing a simple wood frame lined with heavy plastic should work as a temporary soak tank. The last time I bought Molasses was at a local farm supply in a 5 gallon bucket. They sell it at tractor supply by the gallon. I’m going to try citric acid for sure.
@@phillipshotrodgarage That 51 hood is pretty curvy from the front, so that why i needed a lot of that mixture. I bought a small kids pool, but that was sort of pain i the butt to handle. That wood frame with a plastic liner idea sounds a lot better way to do it. Sheetmetal pieces that have folded edges or lapwelded pieces needs some extra attention to get the acid neutralized. I did it by giving some extra heat for those spots. I have usually bought my acid from farming supply stores in here Finland, but that insanely huge batch i did (slightly over 200 gallons), it was cheaper to buy that acid from online. That was a lot, but i am sure that you dont that much.
I'll do some measuring to see how many gallons I'll need. I'm sure it will be less than 200, at least I hope so. Great to have you watching from Finland!
Good job. Saving the model a. I was wondering does your car have the vin number on the drivers side door post I have a 28 sedan it a brass plate with vin number
The brass plate was added. Ford never put a serial number on the Model A body. The number was stamped on the left frame rail in the cowl area, and on the engine. From what I understand, Ford stamped the engine first, and that number was transferred to the frame during the assembly process. So basically, the frame number was determined by whatever engine the car got, and the body never had a matching number. Early cars were identified by the engine number. I will have to add a serial number to my car on a plate as you describe to have my car registered, because I wont be using the original engine or frame. I have no numbers currently.
Tank turned out looking good after the sandblasting... you stated that it took 2 plus bags of sand to remove all the rust,,, how much time did it take ??
Just wondering, cause it looked a bit faster on the firewall after you ran the grinder over it then blasted...
Been wanting a small blasting outfit myself,, but I’m sure my small compressor wouldn’t be able to do the job...figuring I might need something like a big 80 gallon tank to handle the volume ... any thoughts ??
Till your next video,, later my friend...
I’m using a 80 gallon champion 5 hp compressor and it works pretty hard to keep up with sandblasting. Plus my old blaster leaks air and isn’t efficient. It needs the leaks fixed to help the compressor keep up. I stop periodically and let the compressor build up and turn off a few minutes to cool. My champion compressor will power through it no problem, but I don’t like to abuse my equipment. I’m doing this work in my home shop, so I need this equipment to last. You can get by with a smaller compressor, you just won’t have pressure as long and will have to stop more frequently. A proper sandblasting compressor is quite large, usually gas powered. As far as the time, all the work I did took place over three afternoons , the tank was one afternoon, the firewall and metal prep work was one afternoon, and the welding and grinding on the tank was one night. I probably spent 5 -6 hours messing around with sandblasting, setting stuff up, keeping the blaster full of sand, videoing, letting the compressor build up, etc. blasting gets time consuming. I sped the blasting footage up 1000 times the normal speed. Grinding with a abrasive stripping disc definitely helped.
Wow Phillip...
I knew that the footage was spead up but didn’t realize that it was to that speed .... and had no idea that it was shot over that many days...
That’s a lot of time and work ,, but then again, doing it yourself saves a lot of money as opposed to sending it out to a Blaster...
Thanks for the info on what setup you got,, yeah I’ve definitely got to upgrade my air source if I plan on getting a blasting outfit...
I have a small hand held blasting gun that I use for small areas and I’m constantly having to start and stop just to let my 30 gallon unit build up.... keep up the good work my friend....