Guide to Drafting Film - Part Two
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- In part two of this series of In Depth videos looking at drafting film I do a direct comparison between traditional drafting film versus Dura-Lar using coloured pencils.
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Thank you so much for these two videos, Lisa, for unravelling the mysteries of drafting film vs Duralar. Finally I know the difference between the two and what I can expect with each one.
Great video with lots of useful information. Thanks.
Absolutely amazing, clear, to the point and pack full of information. Thank you so much!!!
I know what you mean about it getting a shine and not wonting to take extra layers. I purchased it by mistake and when making sure I used VERY little pressure it started to shine and didn’t won’t to take many layers. Will be purchasing the right one now. Thank you for the tutorial. 👍
I did the same thing and she really explains and demonstrates the difference between the two
thank you for your demonstration of drafting film vs duralar...
Very helpful. Thank you.🌹
Great instruction..thank you!! ❤
Thank you for videos. Please advise how many times you can run out on drafting film before it looses tooth.
Also, in areas where no pigment is being used. I have a problem with areas now looking dirty.I have tried to rub out, but then it makes another area of the film look dirty.
Interested now how oil pastels would work on drafting film? Or Caran d’Ache watercolor crayons? Oooo the possibilities!
I've another video on here showing some different media including wc pencils
I'd be careful about thinking of Grafix drafting film as being a higher grade than Dura-Lar. In their FAQ, they say that drafting film is not actually archival, whereas Dura-Lar "meets the Library of Congress’ specifications for archival polyester film." Now they are talking about using the film for storage and interleaving, there, and not as a support for art, but the implication is that Dura-Lar is stable and inert and drafting film isn't. In my own experience, I have some pen and ink work on Grafix drafting film that's about 20 years old, and the film has very noticeably yellowed. It's been stored between sheets of acid-free, buffered Strathmore paper, in a drawer (so, no UV exposure). By contrast, I have a pad of wet media Dura-Lar that is... not quite that old, but from 2008-2009 or so, and it hasn't yellowed at all. Like you, I have a slight preference for the surface quality of the drafting film, but the yellowing really concerns me.
Hi Ben, those are very interesting comments. I am actually mid conversation with the head of Grafix so I am going to pitch this over to her this evening and will feed back any response. In the meantime this is also from their FAQs and is more what I was referring to. I was not referring to archival rating at all but like I said, I will look into this. Here is the info I was talking about tho and is more about the coating
'What is the difference between Matte Dura-Lar and Drafting Film?
Matte Dura-Lar is only available in .005”, coated on two sides with an economical grade coating. Drafting Film is available in .003”, .004”, .005”, .007” coated one or two sides and is a professional grade coating.'
I suspect it might be the coating that is not color-stable (because the underlying film is probably the same polyester film that they use in Dura-Lar). It does make the drafting film more receptive to media, though (especially dry media).
@@SonesBen I will come back to you as soon as I have the answer ;)
I'm curious to hear what they say, because I really do like how the drafting films handles, more so than the Dura-Lar. Especially with pen and ink--the Dura-Lar is just a little too slick, and the pen slides around and is harder to control, and doesn't lay down quite as smoothly. The slightly toothier drafting film takes ink like a dream, though. You just have to be careful not to smudge it, because it dries very slowly on that surface.
Thanks for this only just discovered your channel. This was really helpful. So given all this which is your favourite surface to use Faber castell Polychromos on?
Hi I’m hoping you can help me. I’m looking at using dura lar or drafting film for applying designs to leather. I would be applying the design with a pen onto the dura lar or film and then using a drawing stylus to impress the drawing onto the leather. The problem I have with regular tracing paper is the leather must be wet which causes the paper to wrinkle and tear. Do you think either of these (the dura lar or drafting film) would be suitable for what I’ve outlined. Are they both waterproof? Thanks
They are both waterproof and you could use a waterproof marker to mark out
@@jlb-arts9639Thanks that’s a great help
So I see the drafting film is sold in a roll whereas the dura lar is pads. Thank you greatly for this video. Glad I did not buy the dura lar yet.
Blick sells sheets of drafting film if you are looking for sheets in the US. Looks like Jackson's does as well, in the UK, though with fewer options and low stock at the moment.
@@heelerjustheeler879 I saw that as well as Jerry’s artarama and Amazon. Jackson’s is expensive for us in the US.
Dura Lar sells in rolls as well and the film sels in sheets and pads.
Funny how what is considered to be student grade looks better to me.
Ah I see. Less layers. How about price differences? Back in the day all the pocket notebooks used to come with 6 drafting film sheets and an micro atlas in the back pocket. I took drafting and blue print making in school so I always used the sheets for blue prints and maping out or path on our school skip days. To think they could have been used for so much more.
I know, it is crazy when we look back at some things we used as part of our work but now realise that we can also use them for so many more applications. It is a personal choice but for layering and amount of pigment that can be allowed down I would always prefer the film over the DuraLar. I do use the black DuraLar or DuraBright though and am about to try the white. I need to experiment with the 2 side by side some though. Some work solely on the DuraLar and create beautiful results
merci pour ces tests j ai lu qu une fois le papier de film saturé et donc sans dent on pouvait chauffer la couleur et que ca permet de remettre des couches en +, je suis nouveau dans le dessin de film donc je n ai pas encore essayer mais ca serait quelque chose a tester sur duralar
Merci beaucoup pour ces tests et pour votre chaîne ! Je voudrais commencer le coloriage sur ce support, mais je ne trouve que le Dura Lar et je ne sais pas quelle autre marque prendre . Pouvez vous me donner la référence exacte du drafting film que vous utilisez dans votre test ? J’habite en France et les magasins d’art ne connaissent pas ce film , donc je suis obligée de commander sur le net . Ce papier est assez cher et je ne voudrais pas me tromper en commandant 😉
I am very interested by this new technique for me! I didn’t watch all your videos, but what’s about the Yupo, my dear friend?
Are those traditional thumbtacks or magnets? If magnets do you have a steel drafting surface then?
They are magnets and the board may be a dry erase board
They are neodymium magnets. I have a video on here showing how to convert your drawing table to be magnetic ruclips.net/video/pemrl2UUYSI/видео.html
Where can I get black drafting film in the UK? Thanks for great demo!
Jacksons sell the Grafix black craft plastic or DuraLar. Same product but one is a pad and the other loose sheets
@@AnimalArtbyLAW Thanks so much. Trying to get to grips with film! Love working on black paper, be interesting using black film!
@@susanandrews8069 it's fun to work on. I found my Prismacolors worked best on the black. I've done a few pieces including a full tutorial of a cat. The knife doesn't work as well on the black as it does on drafting film