The horn’s sensitivity, or lack-thereof has been one of my biggest beefs with my 13’ JK. “Friendly Taps” are essential for courteous city driving and I find myself honking a little too long when I have to dig into those hard springs. Great video, had no clue this was fixable. Please update us if u have any issues after some significant mileage
Followed your directions to a TEE. It took me about a half hour to complete the whole process. This can be cut in half, but I wanted to take my time and mark everything so it went back the way it came out. I have a 2015 Wrangler and the C clips have been replaced with I believe 8mm screws on the posts. Once I replaced the springs from a kit I got at Harbor Freight, I did a practice honk. Had to reconnect the negative battery cable. Once I was satisfied with how the horn now works, I took it one step further and added some WD40 lithium grease to the springs and it is really smooth. Thanks for the video. Great help.
hello good afternoon BRAVOFIX greetings from Argentina, your video is very good, thank you for finding a solution. What do you think of putting a supplement between the locks and the springs so that the plate comes closer and is more sensitive? thank you very much a big hug
What year JK was in this video? My 2010 JK sport steering wheel has three 'prongs' holding the airbag on. I can't find any video showing me where the horn springs are, nor how they get replaced. I already have a paid subscription for the online Mitchell eautorepair guide which has been no help whatsoever!
The problem is the design with both the switches amd the controller. The computer controls the horn and the switches are on-off type. Iys as if whoever designed the horn system wanted it to be as unsafe as possible.
Dear sir thank you for sharing this video to us and u r very fun. I like it. Thank you and awesome work. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
The horn’s sensitivity, or lack-thereof has been one of my biggest beefs with my 13’ JK. “Friendly Taps” are essential for courteous city driving and I find myself honking a little too long when I have to dig into those hard springs. Great video, had no clue this was fixable. Please update us if u have any issues after some significant mileage
Great tip, man. My 2011 JKU suffers from the same issue. I’m considering fixing it myself according to your instructions. Thank you, man.
Followed your directions to a TEE. It took me about a half hour to complete the whole process. This can be cut in half, but I wanted to take my time and mark everything so it went back the way it came out. I have a 2015 Wrangler and the C clips have been replaced with I believe 8mm screws on the posts. Once I replaced the springs from a kit I got at Harbor Freight, I did a practice honk. Had to reconnect the negative battery cable. Once I was satisfied with how the horn now works, I took it one step further and added some WD40 lithium grease to the springs and it is really smooth. Thanks for the video. Great help.
Great internet video! It looks very good! Keep up the good job!
Thanks!
just did mine worked great! thanks! toot-toot
hello good afternoon BRAVOFIX greetings from Argentina, your video is very good, thank you for finding a solution. What do you think of putting a supplement between the locks and the springs so that the plate comes closer and is more sensitive? thank you very much a big hug
What year JK was in this video? My 2010 JK sport steering wheel has three 'prongs' holding the airbag on. I can't find any video showing me where the horn springs are, nor how they get replaced. I already have a paid subscription for the online Mitchell eautorepair guide which has been no help whatsoever!
did you end up using only one HF spring or did you double down on em?
Hello Sir
How about a double tap, does it work?
The problem is the design with both the switches amd the controller. The computer controls the horn and the switches are on-off type. Iys as if whoever designed the horn system wanted it to be as unsafe as possible.