Oh man, I'm switching over my top end to a 'new' bottom end because of a proper catastrophic counter balance pin failure. I think he lucked out with his failure. My countershaft blew out the front of my engine and put my bike into a nasty oily skid at about 65 mph. Somehow kept everything up. Thanks for the videos!
The perfect way to end a perfect day of beer and tinkering on motorcycles is to have another beer while watching someone else drinking beer and tinkering on a motorcycle. Life is good.
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures you're telling me? how long did that 640 adv sit in my garage before we got it going to sell? always good to see what you're up to... -- johnnyg
Free shop manual pdf can be had at: www.manualslib.com/products/Suzuki-Dr350-3596385.html * There's two manuals. They're both exactly the same, except the larger file size one (lowest on the page) has clickable links that make navigation easier.
@@KowboyUSA I think Tom has got a different manual than the one from Suzuki. The pages dont match and it shows different stuff....Would be interesting to know, what manual he is using
@@simonk9729 thank you. What are your compression numbers? Have you done a leak down test? I just put out a video showing how to do that, two weeks ago.
I'm coming from eastern Canada, the bike is in good condition minus the compression issue, it had the seals all done, the electrical works, has supomotor tires with it, and supposedly has good chain and sprokets. I haven't been able to do a test on it. He wants $800 for the bike
That’s not a great design on Suzuki‘s part. They could’ve left the bottom in there or they could’ve even put a couple threads on the top part of the gear. It looks like the gear just slides on there and stays with the crankshaft, I would almost be tempted to put a tiny tack weld on the pin in the gear to just make it part of the gear assembly. But the JB Weld will probably work I would put it on the pin between the two gears. I think it’s the red thread lock that is for high heat applications, the blue usually melts. This is one of those problems where it’s intermittent enough to not buy the re-designing but hopefully they stopped doing it this way on newer motors. Another way they do it on machining is to put a dimple in, you at the pennant to the gear and then you hit it with a chisel or a punch on hardening little gas and it will semi permanently lock the pin in orange but that’s usually done on bolts, I don’t know that it would work on here plus if that gear is cast you risk cracking it. Hopefully the JB Weld will work good enough to get a few more years out of it. Lol. Makes for a cool video anyway ;)
Yeah, it was a design flaw that definitely killed a couple of these bikes over the years. The best way to fix it is probably to put a few good racks of welding on it but I feel good about the repair I did. Time will tell. Thanks for watching.
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures The problem with welding that is that you can warp the gears or even crack them, but just a decent little spot weld on top I think we do it and that’s what I would try myself. But it’s a risk, if that gear is cast or cheaply forged it could have porous metal and that’s not good to weld on. Another thought I had would be to put it in a vice and use a chisel on top just to kind of mushroom the head a little bit so it had to be pressed tightly end of the gear. But there’s not that much pressure on there and I think the JB Weld should work fine. We had an old Kawasaki that was my neighbors in the 80s and his oil pan had about a 4 inch circle missing from it and we just laid out plastic and mixed up a couple of tubes of JB Weld and basically just rebuilt the whole thing and he drove that for at least five or six more years that I knew of and a 4 inch corner of his oil pan was nothing but JB Weld and it never late. I’m not saying it’s the best option or it’s something magical but I think it’ll work pretty good for this. Good job.
@@ShaneZettelmier haha, yeah I have seen and done some crazy repairs with the stuff. Usually it’s supposed to be a temporary repair but it ends up permanent.
Hey Tom, was this your buddy's DR that got the cam install?.. if so, when did it all go south?...should I be concerned about my DR250 suffering same fate!?
Oh man, I'm switching over my top end to a 'new' bottom end because of a proper catastrophic counter balance pin failure. I think he lucked out with his failure.
My countershaft blew out the front of my engine and put my bike into a nasty oily skid at about 65 mph. Somehow kept everything up.
Thanks for the videos!
Yes, I have seen pictures of massive damage just like you had. My buddy got extremely lucky!
I bought a dr recently with the exact same problem as yours
The perfect way to end a perfect day of beer and tinkering on motorcycles is to have another beer while watching someone else drinking beer and tinkering on a motorcycle. Life is good.
And now I think it’s time for a beer. Have a great weekend
Really cool man! I'm rebuilding my dr350 and this helps a lot
Glad to hear it, hope it all goes well.
looking forward to seeing the top end installed and hearing it running again! well done! -- johnnyg
john things move slowly sometimes, had to put some pressure on my buddy to get going on this thing! Thanks for watching.
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures you're telling me? how long did that 640 adv sit in my garage before we got it going to sell?
always good to see what you're up to...
-- johnnyg
john I’m laughing at myself right now, got a couple 90% complete projects here. 😂
Thanks man!
Hopefully whatever project you are working on is going well.
hey man! i'm from argentina!! great job!! un abrazo loco!
sebasss greetings, Argentina! Thanks for watching.
Great videos , very helpful
MrN0body thanks for watching, but please ensure you are using the manual too! Hope you get your project together.
Tom's Tinkering and Adventures just ordered manual ., didn’t have it
My crank has a blind hole and it was deep enough to let the pin drop in enough to let the gear spin.
What year and model?
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures it is a 1996 dr350s. I have it apart now blew the cases open. I bought it like this
@@cappvol it seems like it affects the later models. I hope you are able to get it back together.
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures trying to gather up parts as we speak, watched your video to give me a little insight thanks
Great job Tom! Do you happen to have a pdf copy of that manual?
Thank you. I don’t have a copy but perhaps you can find one online...I usually have good luck using a search engine.
Free shop manual pdf can be had at: www.manualslib.com/products/Suzuki-Dr350-3596385.html * There's two manuals. They're both exactly the same, except the larger file size one (lowest on the page) has clickable links that make navigation easier.
@@KowboyUSA I think Tom has got a different manual than the one from Suzuki. The pages dont match and it shows different stuff....Would be interesting to know, what manual he is using
Looking at picking 1990 dr350s, doesn't have compression and won't start, what should I watch out for?
Awesome videos btw.
@@simonk9729 thank you. What are your compression numbers? Have you done a leak down test? I just put out a video showing how to do that, two weeks ago.
I'm coming from eastern Canada, the bike is in good condition minus the compression issue, it had the seals all done, the electrical works, has supomotor tires with it, and supposedly has good chain and sprokets. I haven't been able to do a test on it. He wants $800 for the bike
@@simonk9729 it’s likely worth it, hopefully just needs some top end work.
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures Would you diagnose with the leak-down test? I have a cheap compression tester, not a leak-down tester.
Спасибо! Киев
You're welcome, cheers!
Hey guy I'm Tanzanian is great job and how I can get spears part for my Suzuki Dr 350 model 1990?
I order parts online, not sure what places may deliver to you or what they would charge. Good luck.
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures can we charts in WhatsApp please
Good morning am in Ghana my issue I had It's my DRS 250 has been only a crank how can I do please
That’s not a great design on Suzuki‘s part. They could’ve left the bottom in there or they could’ve even put a couple threads on the top part of the gear. It looks like the gear just slides on there and stays with the crankshaft, I would almost be tempted to put a tiny tack weld on the pin in the gear to just make it part of the gear assembly. But the JB Weld will probably work I would put it on the pin between the two gears.
I think it’s the red thread lock that is for high heat applications, the blue usually melts. This is one of those problems where it’s intermittent enough to not buy the re-designing but hopefully they stopped doing it this way on newer motors.
Another way they do it on machining is to put a dimple in, you at the pennant to the gear and then you hit it with a chisel or a punch on hardening little gas and it will semi permanently lock the pin in orange but that’s usually done on bolts, I don’t know that it would work on here plus if that gear is cast you risk cracking it. Hopefully the JB Weld will work good enough to get a few more years out of it. Lol. Makes for a cool video anyway ;)
Yeah, it was a design flaw that definitely killed a couple of these bikes over the years. The best way to fix it is probably to put a few good racks of welding on it but I feel good about the repair I did. Time will tell. Thanks for watching.
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures The problem with welding that is that you can warp the gears or even crack them, but just a decent little spot weld on top I think we do it and that’s what I would try myself. But it’s a risk, if that gear is cast or cheaply forged it could have porous metal and that’s not good to weld on. Another thought I had would be to put it in a vice and use a chisel on top just to kind of mushroom the head a little bit so it had to be pressed tightly end of the gear. But there’s not that much pressure on there and I think the JB Weld should work fine. We had an old Kawasaki that was my neighbors in the 80s and his oil pan had about a 4 inch circle missing from it and we just laid out plastic and mixed up a couple of tubes of JB Weld and basically just rebuilt the whole thing and he drove that for at least five or six more years that I knew of and a 4 inch corner of his oil pan was nothing but JB Weld and it never late. I’m not saying it’s the best option or it’s something magical but I think it’ll work pretty good for this. Good job.
@@ShaneZettelmier haha, yeah I have seen and done some crazy repairs with the stuff. Usually it’s supposed to be a temporary repair but it ends up permanent.
Hey Tom, was this your buddy's DR that got the cam install?.. if so, when did it all go south?...should I be concerned about my DR250 suffering same fate!?
FTBY59 Mike D yes, same DR350. I don’t know if the DR250 had the same counter balancer issues? Guess we should do some research.
LOL...the only part i was searching for you skipped over it......installing kickstart assembly
Aww, I apologize! I seem to have the same luck with RUclips.
All good...owning a DR350 I keep coming back to your videos...great videos regardless
@@LosVRC thanks for watching!
Oil seals???? Crankshaft seal replacement didn't see Any thing in. Video.k
No crank seals on a four stroke.