If more people would do their (info vids) like this instead of wasting time crowing about their selves to cover the fact that they know little or nothing about the subject, youtube would be much better place
yes for sure that modification is usual here but is wrong, you get torque for riding with two but loose all higher rpm, and all these videos are about high rpm power original piston is 38mm and up to 39mm is 50cc (if we want to be in 50cc class)
+Adarsh S A tighter squish gap reduces the amount of trapped mixture in the squishband - a larger area vs volume is being exposed to the relatively cooler aluminum of the piston and head. Go tight enough and there won't be room for anything being trapped at all. Nothing can't detonate. The reason why you can't just set the static squish gap to zero is cause the crank bends and the rod stretches at higher rpm.
+Adarsh S You are right about that. But tightening the squishband say 0.2mm won't alter combustion chamber volume much. And if you are running like 1.5mm squish then your compression is probably very low and taking of that 1mm will just take it up to a better ratio. Every setup is different tho, and one should do some measuring and calculations before cutting.
I port matched my cylinder widowed the piston and made my squish gap as small as I was comfortable with had a buddy mil out a stubby intake as short as we could go. Got an mz65 clone and sleeved the inside pipe as shown in the vid and just from those mods I jumped from 26-27mph to 38mph consistently. Using a 40t sprocket and it runs like a squirrel on speed
Years ago i heard about the rc car fuel trick from a riding buddy, he would use it in races with his 125. Fast forward about 20 years, i bought a house with a bunch of dead trees. I spent a little too little on a 50cc chain saw that did not quite have the power to make it through some logs. Remember the rc car fuel trick, i tossed maybe a little too much into the chainsaw. It worked like a charm! I made it through the last few logs that i needed to make lighter, but the engine got super hot, it would not shut off, ended up choking it with paper towels and water and finally got it shut off! I'm pretty sure the spark plug was acting as a glow plug at that point lol! The little husqvarna 50cc engine survived, and i ended up doing some slight modifications to the exhaust system that then allowed me to run the saw much richer, that then allowed me to run a little nitromethane in the fuel. Here in the states, we can get 100% nitromethane, but it is a "watched" item... I now run two large capfulls per 2 gallons of 40:1 premx in all of my two stroke equipment. I love that nitromethane idle growl it gives everything!
I once got my 125 2 stroke racing bike so hot that it started dieseling. I pulled the spark plug boot off and it kept running. It turns out I ran it with no coolant for about 20 minutes... fail
great video man! quick and straight to the point, I like it. Think I'll set up my next build to run nitro. I have run 99% isopropanol mixed with 2t oil before, just to get to the gas station. Definitely more power, definitely a different smell and sound.
@@marcello033 to raise the cylinder in order to get much more aggressive port timing. Measure first and decide if there is enough to gain. I go up to 170/122/155 degrees port timing for cylinders with piston controlled inlets. This is fine for 50-70ccm
Very nice advices i only knew about a few before ur video! I can also add a bit of my experience to the preparation of the cilynder ports into the engine block. Many smaller 2 stroke blocks have very small wall thiknesses in these areas. You can just take your caliper and stick a little drill to it (f.e. just with duct tape) and you have a great tool to measure all the smaller spots of wall thiknesses you are about to process without buying expensive instruments.
You're better off getting 70cc sport kit and a new carb for your yamaha dt because if you tune the stock engine alot the power will be at really high rpm and its not that nice to ride on the street the 70cc sport cylinders have way more low end and high end power than a 50cc cylinder
AM6 motors was 2 stroke last time i checked ;) Do what he said in this video. But make sure to thorouhly research every single aspect of it through other means before you do anything. You do not want to explode your engine. If you want the quick and easy way to gain some exstra hp out of it and have some cash to spend, look fore a 70cc big bore kit and a new crankshaft. But the cheep and easy way he mentioned in this video, get a new main jet in the carb. Changing the stock air filter for a high flow/power filter propably wouldnt hurt eighter. And again, follow the tils in this video, just make sure to research it alot first and read as much as possible about how a 2 stroke work. Good luck to you my friend 👉
Thought you were going to talk about stuffing the crank.That was a thing back in the day.Don't know if it still is.That's where you fill in all the holes in the crankshaft with some lightweight materiel,like cork or foam,then epoxy over it to seal it. I did it to my '76 360 Husky,and it made it almost as much of a torque monster as my friends YZ400E,and I could still smoke him on top end.That Husky was blindingly fast.
I was told by an old school two stroke tuner that he done similar in the piston, cramming cork inside it above the wrist pin, do you think this is likely to do a similar job or worth trying?
I am one of those lucky owners of two stroke cars. I've been following your builds and films. I sure wish we could talk. I figured out how to make great 2 stroke power reliably from 2500 -to- 4500 rpm. which is really good for a heavy car that needs torque. However at the sacrifice of top RPM. I'm frustrated with the power cut @ 5000 rpm. And want more top end. It'd be great if we could chat some how or some way and send me in the right direction. Thanks Mark
+2stroketurbo Sure, send me a mail on 2strokestuffing@gmail.com You know I used to own a Wartburg 353, really miss it. Need to get another one and tune it!
Port timing and a proper exhaust can make or break a 2 stroke. And since you probably can't or won't want to mess with port timing, experiment with different exhaust setups. Problem with 2 strokes is you can tune them to operate best in certain rpm bands, but all other areas will suffer for it. That's the nature of the beast.
a smaller exhaust will not make more power, but i you decrease the size of the stinger (the pipe after the expasionchamber) you will have more backpressure but you engine will overheat more quickly, as far as i know
Curious why I do not see more videos from you working on larger displacement bikes like the motocross in the back of this room . You seem to do great work and would be interested to see how much power you could squeeze from say a rm 250 or a cr 500 .
Small CC bikes keep the cost down. Everything is relatively cheaper than mx bikes and the same principals apply. Theoretically all mods would apply to larger CC bikes.
running methanol and nitro you need to go almost 3 times as rich as you were on reg fuel then come down a bit till she starts running warm n go up a hair !!!!
Man I've had so much of that rc fuel in my times I never though once to put it in the ol 125 though considering I usually have 110 octane gas in it but I did run a little but of that mixed in my 1/5 scale rc truck and it loved it
I made good power on a lot of 50 and 70ccm Mopeds with 40-45mm Stroke with a gap of 0.7-1mm from the Piston to Head. On my Daily Driver i ran a gap of 0.45mm wich was insane but it started to ping a litte at about 30mph (Stock Puch maxi wit 18mm Pipe, 12mm Carb and 1.2hp Cylinder, Stock topspeed of about 20mph)
When you tight the squish clearance in a 250 (ktm exc) but the stock ignition fires too early at top rpm so you loose power on top :'( Gotta upgrade that ecu sooner or later ahahah
jnuxca you should just get v force or boysen reeds. Depending on witch one gives the most performance increase. Also go with a fly wheel weight. Right now i have a 07 yz250 with a 265 kit. I have a port and polish job for mid to top end power. After that i threw on boysen reeds and removed the stock spacer. Got some head work done. Bike rips...currently needs a right side oil seal 😪 but if you got the money go with porting as a first step. You can get bottom to mid port jobs and mid to top. Eric gorr does a great job and hes not the most expensive.
ktm comes stock with v force reeds, also i mine is an exc (not the sx model) so planty of flywheel weight trust me, it gets boring waiting for the engine to gain rpms ahahah, your bike sounds like a a good project, i would only miss the hydraulic clutch
jnuxca hm interesting. Never knew that. I have always been interested in a buying a ktm i just never found a nice one thats isnt a arm and a leg for price lol.
Stinger outlet, basic rule (Jennings rule) do not reduce the outlet size to any less then 0.58 times the cross sectional area of the header inlet pipe, that's area not diameter. Any smaller may melt a hole in the crown of the piston. Fact is the exhaust inlet size does not always correlate to the actual port size or volume of gas coming from it so that rule is pretty fluffy but its a start. To do it with any degree of accuracy you need to have CC temp and EG temp. First sign is a light ash on the piston crown you can see through the plug hole with a torch, by then the piston is dead but if you replace the piston then at least it wont hole out causing damage down below and mashing bits of it into the cc.
I sanded my head unroll I had 135psi compression and it ran too hot. I backed it down to 110psi and it ran much better than the stock 100psi I had on a new scooter. There was still .07 mm left in the squish band. I used lead solder to get my squish measurment.
The stinger size is interesting just changed the pipe on my huffy the new pipe looked larger but seamed to be down on power but at the same time swapped from 44t to 36t so assumed it was the gear change will look into it and see if I can recover some power
Hello, I have a problem, I have a Peugeot Speedfight 1 100cc that recently seized up/heat seized. It was not tuned. I then changed the cylinder, piston etc. It now starts up right away, but after a while it dies all of a sudden (as if you had turned off the key) and then I can start it right up again, this usually happens when I go over 60 km/h or uphill. When I changed the cylinder etc, I also cleaned everything thoroughly, such as the carburettor, intake, new air filter, new fuel filter (there was no fuel filter before) new spark plug. I also removed the oil pump and put a metalplate with a gasket over the hole instead, I now mix the oil directly into the gasoline. Some other info that might be important. - When I drive over 60 km/h, it starts to make a noise from the variator (CVT), it´s sounds quite a lot. - When it died, I tried to start it again while it was rolling and then it started right away, but it made a noise from the variator, like something "let go" that had been seized up, like a rubber sound, maybe from the belt. - The variator belt touches the variator cover on the inside and has grinded a cut in the metal. - In the variator, where the weights are, the belt does not go down to the bottom of the wheel. - The clutch bell had turned blue from the heat. - The place where the connecting rod attaches to the crankshaft had turned blue from heat. - There was no fuel filter on it before. But i now saw there is an internal fuel filter in the gastank, can it affect the vacuum if you now have 2 fuel filters.
how about exhaust wrap,bigger carbs,lightened parts like piston-flywheel, remove oil pump-kickstarter mechanism to reduse friction looses,make the reed stops wider to give more open area and maybe put carbon reeds?
Hey Stuff, Is the RC fuel already mixed sufficiently with oil, should it be used during break in period? If so should more oil be used? Years ago, there was an aftermarket gizmo called "Snuffernot". It was basically a washer mounted in the end of a straight pipe on a 4 stroke dirt bike for the purpose of running it in town, I suppose; to keep the noise down until you could reach the boonies and open it up. It was installed on the end of the pipe like a butterfly in a carburettor. It had a knob on the top and it could be pivoted to be open or closed or any place in between. I suppose something like that could be mounted in the end of the stinger to "tune" it?
Hi I’m Thomas. I spend 24/7 watching all of your videos haha. I love 2strokes. Wanted to ask you, do you know this? goo.gl/images/r9hoyb I’m having a discussion with a friend of mine and he says that it really works but I don’t think so. The only way to know it is if you can make a dyno run with and without it! Thx! Greetings from Argentina !!!!
That insert should help,especially at lower too half throttle/slide opening.Simply by giving a cleaner laminer flow.However as we spend more time with the throttle pinned open we would not feel the benefit as much. It works in theory,and even better when running bigger carbs,why not want to cut turbulence and improve flow.Also if the theory works,why not run the wings back into the air boot.
The thing would want to work 150 dollars fitted they must charge about 140 dollars an hour labour because the thing shouldn't be worth more than about 10 dollars.
@larrylovejr82 I have never been to a drag race in person. It looks exciting. I watched it on television, and not to mention you were in Woodstock in the heart of Dixie. Roll Tide!!!
I tell kids 99.99% of web is wives tales rumors and opinions. Another fact of 2strokes are less than 1% and I mean way less could tune anything 2t besides guessing. Many guys cant even explain what ratio to run and why. Like owning a dog all your life makes you a trainer handler dog expert. Even a mechanic at say a honda dealership does not ever tune a 2t the correct way. Dialing in plug could easily take 6 plugs 5 6hrs each if you are a spot on racing team carb and tuning expert and highly regarded. The tunes on average joe bikes are mistermed tunes like you playing led zep on guitar and have songs spot on jimmie page's twin brother.
If you raise the cylinder you increase the exhaust port duration but won't you decrease the intake port duration? Won't these two changes offset each other?
I really do hope that in the future one day? You take a comon leaf blower like the Ryobi at 38 cc and go into how to improve it or sell a kit in the future.
Sir i have two stroke cylinder i want to increase its power,rpm please help me how i can increase the speed from its ports. Please help me tell me sir 🥺😕
Hi ! There was no mention about jets ; for instance, in a Vespa 90cc , the Dell Orto original Main Jet is 63; replacing it with a 65 or 67 Jet, wouldn't produce more power, without affecting reliability ? Thanks , oscar
Is it normal for a 2 stroke engine to have a slight carburetor back flow (like drip) while running down the rode? Especially after one has installed a modified jet kit?
The air filter honestly it is a small drip because you don't see it or notice unless you have ran it down the rode for a while then the bike will have a small run of fuel oil mix down the side of the transmission cover. My bike is a 2010 Tomos sprint a55 engine. Someone suggested to me that it might be a stuck float but if it were I would think it would leak all the time...but I am no expert.
My 2 stroke engine is from IAME (I don't have any vids of it yet, didn't consider recording any videos regarding that engine, and it's all the way in Florida), 60cc race TAG kart engine. That sandpaper method might work though! Thanks!
@@TheLoneRogue More heat and more revs.. so you'll have to do maintenance sooner. Instead of changing the piston after 100 hours you'll change it after 80 hours. Even better: changing the exhaust restrictor for one with larger diameter will improve performance too. Those two modifications wouldn't ruin the engine and make it perform like a water cooled X30 Mini. Those engines are made for young kids (5-7) competing in karting in Europe and come with those restrictions to limit power, but can safely be removed.
This is very very untrue, sprocket changes will only help if you already have enough power, otherwise it could make you slower. Actually shorter gearing gives you way better acceleration with 2 strokes. I just published a video on it
on a piston port engine figure out which skirt on your piston is the intake side and cut it as short as you can. that keeps the port open longer and thus more fuel. then on the exhaust side run the piston all the way to top dead center and mark the bottom of the port on the piston then remove the piston and cut the skirt of the piston off just about a quarter inch below that mark.
+ludditeneaderthal yes it does but some synthetics and ester based works. You need to "purge" the system after use just like with alky drag cars, methanol is corrosive and hydroscopic.
Den nest siste, den meg å heve sylinderen. Blir det det samme som å bytte til en langslagsveiv med en sylinder beregnet til org slaglengde? Hvis du skjønner :P
i had Aspen R (race aspen fuel) in a chainsaw, without any tuning or changing the setup the chainsaw ran 2000rpm more, so yes it will work but be careful with overheating
I don't get it. How does decreasing the exhaust tube increase power? Some engine manufacturers even make two exhaust ports for 4 stroke engiens so I was thinking that the bigger the exhaust, the better...
A 4 stroke has valves that keep the air fuel mix in the cylinder until detonation, a 2 stroke does not. 2 strokes need back pressure to make the best power efficiently.
Not entirely true ..too big of exhaust and you will lose fresh air/fuel incoming from the inlet track that will go unchecked right out the exhaust ..NOT from lack of exhaust gas pressure but the resonant frequency of the exhaust sound wave will not be at the right time or powerful enough to stop the air/ fuel mixture from escaping out the exhaust port
@@2STROKESTUFFING it has nothing to do with exhaust gas pressure ..the stinger is not built to maintain any pressure inside the expansion chamber at all ...as if it did the engine would only creation more restriction as it tries to increase rpm until there would be not enough exhaust flow to allow combustion , flame out , game over ... Stingers are designed to maintain a specific resonant frequency from the sound of the combustion as it bounces off the tail end of the expansion chamber causing the sound wave to reverse direction back to the exhaust port as the sound wave blocks the boost pressure from the crankcase of air and fuel mixture from escaping the exhaust port for a period in time until the piston on its compression stroke covers the exhaust port for a fraction of a second before the ignition ignites the combustion chamber causing the boost process all over again and much more violent each time a port induction two stroke fires ..as at a curtain rpm boost comes in so violent on 500cc dirt bikes will flip you and the bike over backwards if you are not aware of what is going on the first time you try to ride one... the compressed boost more than doubles as it is compressed in the combustion chamber from the boost from the sealed crankcase making a much higher sound wave capturing the highest percentage of explosive air fuel mixture as it is said to be "on the pipe" and the beginning of "the power band" that continues at an ever increasing rate second per second ..so the only limiting factor is the CFMs the atmospheric pressure can push through the carburetor Venturi or a throttle body...basically a port induction two stroke is a centrifugal supercharger with a spark plug.. and the main reason why a 4-stroke will never ever make the same horsepower as a two-stroke both naturally aspirated... Two Strokes make boost that never stops gaining boost...4 strokes can only suck and blow
Missed out one obvious tip..... make sure the tyres are correctly inflated, especially on 50cc bikes as under inflated tyres will take a bite out of tops speed. Another "old school" porting method, from back in the 1950's and 1960's, that's even simpler than adding a cylinder base spacer, is piston head edge indenting. I bought (and later sold) a late 1950's Jawa 250 competition motor, back in the mid 1980's, and the only difference between the stock road issue piston and the competition motor's piston was the indented "ramps" in the piston head to increase transfer port duration. It kind of makes better sense than butchering a cylinder block. Porting mistakes only cost a replacement piston compared to ruining a cylinder. Also back then it allowed the motor to have a selection of indented pistons tailored to suit different circuits and race conditions. I've been recently experimenting with an indented piston on one of my son's 2 stroke road bikes and managed to go past the "just perfect" into "f**ked the port timing" BUT it only cost me a replacement piston and redoing the indents back to the "just perfect" dimensions. I could, of course, port the cylinder block out to the dimensions used on the indented piston and use a normal piston again, now the measurements are know. However once ported a cylinder can never be put back stock, unlike running with modified port duration / timing using an indented piston.
@@jozseffarkas1767 take a die grinder using a blunt foot ball shaped carbide but and remove all the imperfections inside the ports left from factory casting until you have resurfaced every square centimeter of all the ports without cutting clear into the cylinder bore ..but match up the exhaust port as big as necessary to the pipe adapter and the polish it to a mirror finish ..and nothing else ..you with feel a bike length jump ahead of a stock bike of the same after a jet size bigger for the carb and a higher flow air filter like a "twin air" brand foam filter and perhaps a FMF fatty tuned expansion chamber or a Yoshimura tuned pipe if you got the bucks ..cause no body ever out tuned "pop" Yoshimura who I spent a week with in a two stroke tuning school on the Honda Elsinore as it was "pop" Yoshimura who designed developed Honda's very first two stroke engines ever made ..that was the game changed from that moment on ..as "pop" taught me everything there ever was or ever will be about tuning port induction two stroke engines as to how they make boost , horsepower , power bands and the essential of a tune expansion chamber ..as so far none of you in these comments have not a clue ..including the video ..
I feel like i'd have to change the rod and crank to use rc fuel and therefore making more power out of my 50cc, it's a really old engine that hits it's "redline" at around 7000 rpm, and makes less than .6 hp at the crank... Maybr
I have a dt400 I ported it by widening and raising the ports. The pipe has a flat crude reflector plate in the wierd shaped convergent cone area. No cone really at all. Do you think removing that plate would make more power. Also there is sound deadoning material in there that must go.
Im running a 9.9 Johnson from 1977 and its a beast. I run it on 20% rc fuel and make sure you got a good propeller. Also upjet it. Usually thats enough to smoke most people.
Hi, What are your thoughts on a full cone pipe compared to a stamp pipe. With all the increments does this help exhaust flow of a cone pipe not only they look good for more performance. This is for a Honda cr250r 2stroke dirt bike Thanks again and keep up the good videos from Australia 🇦🇺
+Andrew Byrne It depends on how well the cone pipe is welded, and how "sharp" the stamped pipe is. Sharp, clear transitions between the different pipe sections = sharp pulses. This is the downside to hydroformed pipes - the transitions are kinda smeared and this smears out the pulses too.
2STROKE STUFFING So it’s actually better to have distinct transitions, not a smoother “flow”? Not doubting you, just trying to learn a bit on expansion chamber selection.
If more people would do their (info vids) like this instead of wasting time crowing about their selves to cover the fact that they know little or nothing about the subject, youtube would be much better place
utoobuser206
Yeah, very informative.
+farinrscollective Thanks!
Yeah when i see 10:01 minute video i don't even watch it cuz i know that there will be nothing that i'm looking for.
Welcome to scandinavia. No stupid "Hello how its going" stuff, we like to do things (and speak less), not vice versa.
@@betav47 GREAT! So now i need to move there to get a girlfriend!
Sounds awesome! Less chat more action! Thanks for the heads up
Awesome video! I love all the pro tip stuff. You should go over all the mods you make on your engine when it is complete.
+FORCED-INDUCTN Thanks, I will!
U are the best , sir
+Humanoid Thanks!
Thanks I’m going to try the smaller exhaust stinger on my tomos 65cc 😎
Great name :D
65cc did not exist, but did you get any power on it?
yes for sure that modification is usual here but is wrong, you get torque for riding with two but loose all higher rpm, and all these videos are about high rpm power original piston is 38mm and up to 39mm is 50cc (if we want to be in 50cc class)
forgecro pretty sure exhaust flow is what matters.. If you can go just as fast at 10k why bother going to 12
Hole in the piston springs to mind
How shaving the head reduce detonation?2:09
+Adarsh S A tighter squish gap reduces the amount of trapped mixture in the squishband - a larger area vs volume is being exposed to the relatively cooler aluminum of the piston and head. Go tight enough and there won't be room for anything being trapped at all. Nothing can't detonate. The reason why you can't just set the static squish gap to zero is cause the crank bends and the rod stretches at higher rpm.
2STROKE STUFFING thanks.
But shaving head result in higher compression ratio which in turn makes it prone to detonation that is what I have studied!
+Adarsh S You are right about that. But tightening the squishband say 0.2mm won't alter combustion chamber volume much. And if you are running like 1.5mm squish then your compression is probably very low and taking of that 1mm will just take it up to a better ratio. Every setup is different tho, and one should do some measuring and calculations before cutting.
Squeezing every drop of horsepower out of it,,, when almost detonation , back off a lil bit. Lol
if youre just after power for short periods of time thats how to do it
You had me at cheap"-
I port matched my cylinder widowed the piston and made my squish gap as small as I was comfortable with had a buddy mil out a stubby intake as short as we could go. Got an mz65 clone and sleeved the inside pipe as shown in the vid and just from those mods I jumped from 26-27mph to 38mph consistently. Using a 40t sprocket and it runs like a squirrel on speed
Years ago i heard about the rc car fuel trick from a riding buddy, he would use it in races with his 125.
Fast forward about 20 years, i bought a house with a bunch of dead trees.
I spent a little too little on a 50cc chain saw that did not quite have the power to make it through some logs.
Remember the rc car fuel trick, i tossed maybe a little too much into the chainsaw.
It worked like a charm!
I made it through the last few logs that i needed to make lighter, but the engine got super hot, it would not shut off, ended up choking it with paper towels and water and finally got it shut off!
I'm pretty sure the spark plug was acting as a glow plug at that point lol!
The little husqvarna 50cc engine survived, and i ended up doing some slight modifications to the exhaust system that then allowed me to run the saw much richer, that then allowed me to run a little nitromethane in the fuel.
Here in the states, we can get 100% nitromethane, but it is a "watched" item...
I now run two large capfulls per 2 gallons of 40:1 premx in all of my two stroke equipment.
I love that nitromethane idle growl it gives everything!
.....so there wasn't any ring damage from the overheating? I think a sthil would have gotten ring damage .
I once got my 125 2 stroke racing bike so hot that it started dieseling. I pulled the spark plug boot off and it kept running. It turns out I ran it with no coolant for about 20 minutes... fail
great video man! quick and straight to the point, I like it. Think I'll set up my next build to run nitro. I have run 99% isopropanol mixed with 2t oil before, just to get to the gas station. Definitely more power, definitely a different smell and sound.
+Kosmoto Thanks! Do it!
Its could be a stupid question... my english is maybe not so good.
But...that ring you put on the cilinder, where's that for?
@@marcello033 to raise the cylinder in order to get much more aggressive port timing. Measure first and decide if there is enough to gain. I go up to 170/122/155 degrees port timing for cylinders with piston controlled inlets. This is fine for 50-70ccm
Very nice advices i only knew about a few before ur video! I can also add a bit of my experience to the preparation of the cilynder ports into the engine block. Many smaller 2 stroke blocks have very small wall thiknesses in these areas. You can just take your caliper and stick a little drill to it (f.e. just with duct tape) and you have a great tool to measure all the smaller spots of wall thiknesses you are about to process without buying expensive instruments.
+P33TMusic Thanks! Great tip!
If you could show am6 engine tuning, that would be gold💪🏻
You're better off getting 70cc sport kit and a new carb for your yamaha dt because if you tune the stock engine alot the power will be at really high rpm and its not that nice to ride on the street the 70cc sport cylinders have way more low end and high end power than a 50cc cylinder
AM6 motors was 2 stroke last time i checked ;)
Do what he said in this video. But make sure to thorouhly research every single aspect of it through other means before you do anything. You do not want to explode your engine.
If you want the quick and easy way to gain some exstra hp out of it and have some cash to spend, look fore a 70cc big bore kit and a new crankshaft.
But the cheep and easy way he mentioned in this video, get a new main jet in the carb. Changing the stock air filter for a high flow/power filter propably wouldnt hurt eighter.
And again, follow the tils in this video, just make sure to research it alot first and read as much as possible about how a 2 stroke work.
Good luck to you my friend 👉
@@laurisorvari4981 thats boring you whant it to rev high that will be much more fun and nobody whants a 4 stroke power curve on a 2 stroke
@@laurisorvari4981 in some places people are stuck with 50cc bikes until they're older :)
80cc pink top cilinder with a doppler crank and a 19mm ali carb
Thought you were going to talk about stuffing the crank.That was a thing back in the day.Don't know if it still is.That's where you fill in all the holes in the crankshaft with some lightweight materiel,like cork or foam,then epoxy over it to seal it. I did it to my '76 360 Husky,and it made it almost as much of a torque monster as my friends YZ400E,and I could still smoke him on top end.That Husky was blindingly fast.
I was told by an old school two stroke tuner that he done similar in the piston, cramming cork inside it above the wrist pin, do you think this is likely to do a similar job or worth trying?
most modern moped cranks in the aftermarket/tuning segment do have either aluminium ore plastic filling to not lose crank volyme.
Awesome stuff. True quality content, no fluff. That's what success in any project or engineering situation like like - got to do the due diligence
I am one of those lucky owners of two stroke cars. I've been following your builds and films. I sure wish we could talk. I figured out how to make great 2 stroke power reliably from 2500 -to- 4500 rpm. which is really good for a heavy car that needs torque. However at the sacrifice of top RPM. I'm frustrated with the power cut @ 5000 rpm. And want more top end. It'd be great if we could chat some how or some way and send me in the right direction. Thanks Mark
+2stroketurbo Sure, send me a mail on 2strokestuffing@gmail.com You know I used to own a Wartburg 353, really miss it. Need to get another one and tune it!
Time to start messing with gearing?
Port timing and a proper exhaust can make or break a 2 stroke. And since you probably can't or won't want to mess with port timing, experiment with different exhaust setups. Problem with 2 strokes is you can tune them to operate best in certain rpm bands, but all other areas will suffer for it. That's the nature of the beast.
when are you finna start tuning am6 and Derbi motors. i bet youre going to be the best if you pur your mind to it!
Drill a hole in the stinger, weld a nut in line with the hole and screw the bolt in to tighten it up. Us a jam nut as well
Could someone please explain whh a smaller exhaust makes more power? Is this due to higher exhaust velocities increasing exhaust scavenging?
a smaller exhaust will not make more power, but i you decrease the size of the stinger (the pipe after the expasionchamber) you will have more backpressure but you engine will overheat more quickly, as far as i know
10 ways to destroy your 2 stroke bike
+#Anto# #Anto# That's one way of looking at it...
Eh, there's only a few things in here that can result in destruction...
And make more power
came down here to post this
10 ways to blow up a 2 stroke engine
Only if you a idiot 😂
Could you do multiple videos go more in depth for each of these
+GOONCITY I'll put it on the list!
Curious why I do not see more videos from you working on larger displacement bikes like the motocross in the back of this room . You seem to do great work and would be interested to see how much power you could squeeze from say a rm 250 or a cr 500 .
Small CC bikes keep the cost down. Everything is relatively cheaper than mx bikes and the same principals apply. Theoretically all mods would apply to larger CC bikes.
running methanol and nitro you need to go almost 3 times as rich as you were on reg fuel then come down a bit till she starts running warm n go up a hair !!!!
Man I've had so much of that rc fuel in my times I never though once to put it in the ol 125 though considering I usually have 110 octane gas in it but I did run a little but of that mixed in my 1/5 scale rc truck and it loved it
I made good power on a lot of 50 and 70ccm Mopeds with 40-45mm Stroke with a gap of 0.7-1mm from the Piston to Head. On my Daily Driver i ran a gap of 0.45mm wich was insane but it started to ping a litte at about 30mph (Stock Puch maxi wit 18mm Pipe, 12mm Carb and 1.2hp Cylinder, Stock topspeed of about 20mph)
When you tight the squish clearance in a 250 (ktm exc) but the stock ignition fires too early at top rpm so you loose power on top :'(
Gotta upgrade that ecu sooner or later ahahah
Or advance the timing
you mean moving the sensor? i don't want to fuck up the timing on the other rpms, it's an enduro bike i need some power on low and mid rpms
jnuxca you should just get v force or boysen reeds. Depending on witch one gives the most performance increase. Also go with a fly wheel weight. Right now i have a 07 yz250 with a 265 kit. I have a port and polish job for mid to top end power. After that i threw on boysen reeds and removed the stock spacer. Got some head work done. Bike rips...currently needs a right side oil seal 😪 but if you got the money go with porting as a first step. You can get bottom to mid port jobs and mid to top. Eric gorr does a great job and hes not the most expensive.
ktm comes stock with v force reeds, also i mine is an exc (not the sx model) so planty of flywheel weight trust me, it gets boring waiting for the engine to gain rpms ahahah, your bike sounds like a a good project, i would only miss the hydraulic clutch
jnuxca hm interesting. Never knew that. I have always been interested in a buying a ktm i just never found a nice one thats isnt a arm and a leg for price lol.
Stinger outlet, basic rule (Jennings rule) do not reduce the outlet size to any less then 0.58 times the cross sectional area of the header inlet pipe, that's area not diameter. Any smaller may melt a hole in the crown of the piston. Fact is the exhaust inlet size does not always correlate to the actual port size or volume of gas coming from it so that rule is pretty fluffy but its a start.
To do it with any degree of accuracy you need to have CC temp and EG temp.
First sign is a light ash on the piston crown you can see through the plug hole with a torch, by then the piston is dead but if you replace the piston then at least it wont hole out causing damage down below and mashing bits of it into the cc.
+AuMechanic Good info!
I would say, tune it with a pressuregauge.
0.3bar is quite good pressure in the belly.
+Patrick Wetterskog That's good advice!
If you are prepared to weld a pressure tap in it that's a good method to use. Just watch the CC temp whichever way you do it.
I sanded my head unroll I had 135psi compression and it ran too hot. I backed it down to 110psi and it ran much better than the stock 100psi I had on a new scooter. There was still .07 mm left in the squish band. I used lead solder to get my squish measurment.
The stinger size is interesting just changed the pipe on my huffy the new pipe looked larger but seamed to be down on power but at the same time swapped from 44t to 36t so assumed it was the gear change will look into it and see if I can recover some power
derk nobit put the old sprocket on it and see if you have got more power. You should do things one at a time to find out what works and what doesn’t
RideSouthWest ya should have but didn't.
derk nobit yeah haha I’ve done the same many times. Just things you pick up when tuning engines and stuff
but it gonna reduce the torque
Hello, I have a problem, I have a Peugeot Speedfight 1 100cc that recently seized up/heat seized. It was not tuned. I then changed the cylinder, piston etc. It now starts up right away, but after a while it dies all of a sudden (as if you had turned off the key) and then I can start it right up again, this usually happens when I go over 60 km/h or uphill.
When I changed the cylinder etc, I also cleaned everything thoroughly, such as the carburettor, intake, new air filter, new fuel filter (there was no fuel filter before) new spark plug. I also removed the oil pump and put a metalplate with a gasket over the hole instead, I now mix the oil directly into the gasoline.
Some other info that might be important.
- When I drive over 60 km/h, it starts to make a noise from the variator (CVT), it´s sounds quite a lot.
- When it died, I tried to start it again while it was rolling and then it started right away, but it made a noise from the variator, like something "let go" that had been seized up, like a rubber sound, maybe from the belt.
- The variator belt touches the variator cover on the inside and has grinded a cut in the metal.
- In the variator, where the weights are, the belt does not go down to the bottom of the wheel.
- The clutch bell had turned blue from the heat.
- The place where the connecting rod attaches to the crankshaft had turned blue from heat.
- There was no fuel filter on it before. But i now saw there is an internal fuel filter in the gastank, can it affect the vacuum if you now have 2 fuel filters.
Please help me.
Regards
Andree.
I wonder if I could tune my generator in order to get more power...
Chris H. Kraemer yes
Not a bad idea.
Norwegian? Can you help me derestrict my 50cc rieju rs3
What ratio of 2 stroke oil to fuel would you use when running nitromethane methanol?
sooo i need to make my 50cc go bang bang
how about exhaust wrap,bigger carbs,lightened parts like piston-flywheel, remove oil pump-kickstarter mechanism to reduse friction looses,make the reed stops wider to give more open area and maybe put carbon reeds?
+kostask18 All stuff that can help, I tried to pick a few that weren't that common.
Would like some of this back to basics stuff again
You can use a 2 stroke engine as a Stirling engine, just put it up side down, apply heat on the head, plug the holes.
Hey Stuff, Is the RC fuel already mixed sufficiently with oil, should it be used during break in period? If so should more oil be used?
Years ago, there was an aftermarket gizmo called "Snuffernot". It was basically a washer mounted in the end of a straight pipe on a 4 stroke dirt bike for the purpose of running it in town, I suppose; to keep the noise down until you could reach the boonies and open it up. It was installed on the end of the pipe like a butterfly in a carburettor. It had a knob on the top and it could be pivoted to be open or closed or any place in between. I suppose something like that could be mounted in the end of the stinger to "tune" it?
Gp bikes actually have a butterfly valve in the exhaust system to tune the exhaust
It usually has like 9% castor oil, methanol RC engines always spit a bunch of oil out the exhaust.
Er du norsk
+WindFair Yep.
det hørte man med en gang gitt.
æ døue xD
Hørte det jeg og😂
i need to make a adpter plate. from 66cc motorized bicycle engine case to ts400 cylinder . i need a plate 6mm thick. any help would be great
Frank lol
Just build a 660
Hi I’m Thomas. I spend 24/7 watching all of your videos haha. I love 2strokes.
Wanted to ask you, do you know this? goo.gl/images/r9hoyb I’m having a discussion with a friend of mine and he says that it really works but I don’t think so. The only way to know it is if you can make a dyno run with and without it! Thx!
Greetings from Argentina !!!!
+tomas socas Thanks! I'll check out the link later when I have time!
That insert should help,especially at lower too half throttle/slide opening.Simply by giving a cleaner laminer flow.However as we spend more time with the throttle pinned open we would not feel the benefit as much.
It works in theory,and even better when running bigger carbs,why not want to cut turbulence and improve flow.Also if the theory works,why not run the wings back into the air boot.
2STROKE STUFFING thanks!!!!
The thing would want to work 150 dollars fitted they must charge about 140 dollars an hour labour because the thing shouldn't be worth more than about 10 dollars.
Nicely done fella, keep up the great work too.
But inserting ah spacer on the base modify the powerband curve. IT depends on your demand
@larrylovejr82 I have never been to a drag race in person. It looks exciting. I watched it on television, and not to mention you were in Woodstock in the heart of Dixie. Roll Tide!!!
can you do a video for 2 stroke racing motorcycle build.
+Tuan Rizkhan I'm hoping the Spx will turn into something like tgat eventually!
hey i own a Yamaha tzr125rr can you give me some tips to do racing it.
I tell kids 99.99% of web is wives tales rumors and opinions. Another fact of 2strokes are less than 1% and I mean way less could tune anything 2t besides guessing. Many guys cant even explain what ratio to run and why. Like owning a dog all your life makes you a trainer handler dog expert. Even a mechanic at say a honda dealership does not ever tune a 2t the correct way. Dialing in plug could easily take 6 plugs 5 6hrs each if you are a spot on racing team carb and tuning expert and highly regarded. The tunes on average joe bikes are mistermed tunes like you playing led zep on guitar and have songs spot on jimmie page's twin brother.
I love to watch drag racing but never attended one in person. I see you were in the heart of Dixie attending this race.😊
Long shot but would you know best roller weight for a speedfight 50cc 2t all standard apart from stage 6 viriotrator
If you make the squish gap too small you blow a bloody great big hole in your piston
If you raise the cylinder you increase the exhaust port duration but won't you decrease the intake port duration? Won't these two changes offset each other?
Sir, I need such a help. I want to ask about the port of such a cylinder, how can we increase the speed from its port. Please help me. Please tell me.
Bro I attached your video in my blog ,so if you don't mind.
When I was a kid (early 70s) we stuffed our 2-stroke crankcases to reduce volume and increase scavenge pressure. Is that still a practice?
I really do hope that in the future one day? You take a comon leaf blower like the Ryobi at 38 cc and go into how to improve it or sell a kit in the future.
why base spacer increase more power can u elaborate it to me thanks
Cause you increase port durations.
Sir i have two stroke cylinder i want to increase its power,rpm please help me how i can increase the speed from its ports. Please help me tell me sir 🥺😕
No mention of power valves, jetting, needle adjustment, derestricting or catalytic converter removal. All very basic steps.
Hi ! There was no mention about jets ; for instance, in a Vespa 90cc , the Dell Orto original Main Jet is 63; replacing it with a 65 or 67 Jet, wouldn't produce more power, without affecting reliability ? Thanks , oscar
Down jet to the near detonation? Hmm.. you mean lean mixture makes more power then slightly rich mixture?
How to make your bike a bomb 101 lol just playin
😂
Is it normal for a 2 stroke engine to have a slight carburetor back flow (like drip) while running down the rode? Especially after one has installed a modified jet kit?
Sounds strange... Where's it dripping from?
The air filter honestly it is a small drip because you don't see it or notice unless you have ran it down the rode for a while then the bike will have a small run of fuel oil mix down the side of the transmission cover. My bike is a 2010 Tomos sprint a55 engine. Someone suggested to me that it might be a stuck float but if it were I would think it would leak all the time...but I am no expert.
worn out reeds
@@jackmills5071 exactly
My 2 stroke engine is from IAME (I don't have any vids of it yet, didn't consider recording any videos regarding that engine, and it's all the way in Florida), 60cc race TAG kart engine. That sandpaper method might work though! Thanks!
No need to sand it. The head of IAME 60 cc engines have a copper gasket in it. Removing the gasket will increase power.
@@davidgutierrez3312 Huh, okay. But won't that likely kill reliability as well?
@@TheLoneRogue More heat and more revs.. so you'll have to do maintenance sooner. Instead of changing the piston after 100 hours you'll change it after 80 hours.
Even better: changing the exhaust restrictor for one with larger diameter will improve performance too.
Those two modifications wouldn't ruin the engine and make it perform like a water cooled X30 Mini.
Those engines are made for young kids (5-7) competing in karting in Europe and come with those restrictions to limit power, but can safely be removed.
@@davidgutierrez3312 Okay then. Thanks for the tips.
My bike is suzuki samurai how to increase high power high rpm high speed please tell me brother
3:23 is there a point of using a combination of base cylinder spacers and port job at the same time?
Can use rc fuel for 2 stroke??
Which variable ignition time system do you use? I need one for my highly tuned 55ccm 2-stroke moped.
Don't you need somewhere around 30% more fuel running alcohol?
i currently probably have over 2mm of squish gap
You forgot gear ratio, it makes the biggest difference in speed. Costs like 5€ for a ratio. Bigger gear ratio in front = faster you will go
This is very very untrue, sprocket changes will only help if you already have enough power, otherwise it could make you slower. Actually shorter gearing gives you way better acceleration with 2 strokes. I just published a video on it
And boost bottle?
I have an 80s 50cc with a 65cc bore kit and it tops at 50, what would you recommend?
Better pipe maybe?
2STROKE STUFFING as in expansion chamber? I’m just not sure what would fit as it’s an older bike
What bike is it?
2STROKE STUFFING 1984 Honda mtx 50 with a 65cc kit
@@thomasashman8738 bigger carb en exhaust
Is posible put this recomendations in motorized bicycle 2 stroke?
This guy tells the most unbelievable nonsense!
awesome vid bro
Thanks!
any time bro.... i do pocket bikes for my vids ...would love to see how fast you could make one go
on a piston port engine figure out which skirt on your piston is the intake side and cut it as short as you can. that keeps the port open longer and thus more fuel. then on the exhaust side run the piston all the way to top dead center and mark the bottom of the port on the piston then remove the piston and cut the skirt of the piston off just about a quarter inch below that mark.
"as short as you can" is very dumb. If you take too much you will lower the speed of the transfer ports as some pressure will go back out the carb
@@KalLanPIDT only doubled the hp on a kt100
I'm 11 seconds in (because I'm a lazy bastard) and this is clearly a Norwegian. :)
Yep
First of all ill go rich😅😅😅, nice advice
Hey bro i have one question. For racing crankshaft should be light or heavy in 2 stroke? Please help me I will wait for you answer!
+Fayyaz. Mad. Heavy is my advice, or more specifically high inertia. But some disagree, the jury is still out.
The restricting the exaust pipe has me confused
Does rc fuel have any problems with non castor 2 stroke oils? How about needing to drain the fuel system between uses (like alky drag cars)?
+ludditeneaderthal yes it does but some synthetics and ester based works. You need to "purge" the system after use just like with alky drag cars, methanol is corrosive and hydroscopic.
byggtørke som varmeovn? XD
Yep
@@2STROKESTUFFING funker fett det
2STROKE IS LOVE
Yes!
Henter ny 250 to takt om ett par uker. Får prøve npen av disse tipsene da :)
+Alexander Veldman Moro!
Den nest siste, den meg å heve sylinderen. Blir det det samme som å bytte til en langslagsveiv med en sylinder beregnet til org slaglengde? Hvis du skjønner :P
Nesten, slaglengden er den samme men stemplet jobber lavere i sylinderen.
Does this information apply to yamaha banshee engines?sry if this is a dumb question
+Cheap Bleach Not dumb, it does!
Love your videos👍 will rc fuel work on a chainsaw too? Running red Aspen now.
i had Aspen R (race aspen fuel) in a chainsaw, without any tuning or changing the setup the chainsaw ran 2000rpm more, so yes it will work but be careful with overheating
Love your show, love your beard, not gay...lol...thanks for the info bud...
+Gary Ferguson Jr Haha, thanks!
I don't get it. How does decreasing the exhaust tube increase power? Some engine manufacturers even make two exhaust ports for 4 stroke engiens so I was thinking that the bigger the exhaust, the better...
It's to keep proper pressure in the expansion chamber, many pipes come with too large stingers to have a safety margin.
A 4 stroke has valves that keep the air fuel mix in the cylinder until detonation, a 2 stroke does not. 2 strokes need back pressure to make the best power efficiently.
You need to learn how 2 stroke works.
Not entirely true ..too big of exhaust and you will lose fresh air/fuel incoming from the inlet track that will go unchecked right out the exhaust ..NOT from lack of exhaust gas pressure but the resonant frequency of the exhaust sound wave will not be at the right time or powerful enough to stop the air/ fuel mixture from escaping out the exhaust port
@@2STROKESTUFFING it has nothing to do with exhaust gas pressure ..the stinger is not built to maintain any pressure inside the expansion chamber at all ...as if it did the engine would only creation more restriction as it tries to increase rpm until there would be not enough exhaust flow to allow combustion , flame out , game over ... Stingers are designed to maintain a specific resonant frequency from the sound of the combustion as it bounces off the tail end of the expansion chamber causing the sound wave to reverse direction back to the exhaust port as the sound wave blocks the boost pressure from the crankcase of air and fuel mixture from escaping the exhaust port for a period in time until the piston on its compression stroke covers the exhaust port for a fraction of a second before the ignition ignites the combustion chamber causing the boost process all over again and much more violent each time a port induction two stroke fires ..as at a curtain rpm boost comes in so violent on 500cc dirt bikes will flip you and the bike over backwards if you are not aware of what is going on the first time you try to ride one... the compressed boost more than doubles as it is compressed in the combustion chamber from the boost from the sealed crankcase making a much higher sound wave capturing the highest percentage of explosive air fuel mixture as it is said to be "on the pipe" and the beginning of "the power band" that continues at an ever increasing rate second per second ..so the only limiting factor is the CFMs the atmospheric pressure can push through the carburetor Venturi or a throttle body...basically a port induction two stroke is a centrifugal supercharger with a spark plug.. and the main reason why a 4-stroke will never ever make the same horsepower as a two-stroke both naturally aspirated... Two Strokes make boost that never stops gaining boost...4 strokes can only suck and blow
Missed out one obvious tip..... make sure the tyres are correctly inflated, especially on 50cc bikes as under inflated tyres will take a bite out of tops speed.
Another "old school" porting method, from back in the 1950's and 1960's, that's even simpler than adding a cylinder base spacer, is piston head edge indenting.
I bought (and later sold) a late 1950's Jawa 250 competition motor, back in the mid 1980's, and the only difference between the stock road issue piston and the competition motor's piston was the indented "ramps" in the piston head to increase transfer port duration.
It kind of makes better sense than butchering a cylinder block. Porting mistakes only cost a replacement piston compared to ruining a cylinder. Also back then it allowed the motor to have a selection of indented pistons tailored to suit different circuits and race conditions.
I've been recently experimenting with an indented piston on one of my son's 2 stroke road bikes and managed to go past the "just perfect" into "f**ked the port timing" BUT it only cost me a replacement piston and redoing the indents back to the "just perfect" dimensions.
I could, of course, port the cylinder block out to the dimensions used on the indented piston and use a normal piston again, now the measurements are know. However once ported a cylinder can never be put back stock, unlike running with modified port duration / timing using an indented piston.
+Andy Reid Good tips!
it is hard to do so if you have piston with L-ring!
@@jozseffarkas1767 take a die grinder using a blunt foot ball shaped carbide but and remove all the imperfections inside the ports left from factory casting until you have resurfaced every square centimeter of all the ports without cutting clear into the cylinder bore ..but match up the exhaust port as big as necessary to the pipe adapter and the polish it to a mirror finish ..and nothing else ..you with feel a bike length jump ahead of a stock bike of the same after a jet size bigger for the carb and a higher flow air filter like a "twin air" brand foam filter and perhaps a FMF fatty tuned expansion chamber or a Yoshimura tuned pipe if you got the bucks ..cause no body ever out tuned "pop" Yoshimura who I spent a week with in a two stroke tuning school on the Honda Elsinore as it was "pop" Yoshimura who designed developed Honda's very first two stroke engines ever made ..that was the game changed from that moment on ..as "pop" taught me everything there ever was or ever will be about tuning port induction two stroke engines as to how they make boost , horsepower , power bands and the essential of a tune expansion chamber ..as so far none of you in these comments have not a clue ..including the video ..
I feel like i'd have to change the rod and crank to use rc fuel and therefore making more power out of my 50cc, it's a really old engine that hits it's "redline" at around 7000 rpm, and makes less than .6 hp at the crank... Maybr
+flakey Try it! My Spx is kind of the same thing and it's stock crank can take a beating!
Jeez man 7000 rpm for a 2 stroke is a walk in the park. You need a cdi without a rev limiter or something man
How can I calculate the squish gap and what’s a safe measurement to run it in.
Using solder wire from the sparkplug hole and 0.5mm
I have a dt400 I ported it by widening and raising the ports. The pipe has a flat crude reflector plate in the wierd shaped convergent cone area. No cone really at all. Do you think removing that plate would make more power. Also there is sound deadoning material in there that must go.
does this work with the motorized bikes
is all this possible on an outboard?
Haha I run no exhaust it’s roaring
Please build a small 9.9 evinrude/Johnson outboard they have becoming very popular in small boat racing I would love to see a build
Im running a 9.9 Johnson from 1977 and its a beast.
I run it on 20% rc fuel and make sure you got a good propeller. Also upjet it.
Usually thats enough to smoke most people.
Legend cheers mate
Hey dude, there was only 9
You got me...
Jobbe du oss speedoptions? (Leste ein kommentar der du sa du va norsk)
+Velodd Nix, men er norsk!
Piston arow on which side sir exaust or intake plz guide in yb100 yamaha
Exhaust.
2STROKE STUFFING live long mate
downjet?? is size 70 jet too big for 50cc?
That's impossible to say, I've run from 60 to over 300 in different engines (on different fuels). Trial and error is the way to go.
Hi,
What are your thoughts on a full cone pipe compared to a stamp pipe.
With all the increments does this help exhaust flow of a cone pipe not only they look good for more performance.
This is for a Honda cr250r 2stroke dirt bike
Thanks again and keep up the good videos from Australia 🇦🇺
+Andrew Byrne It depends on how well the cone pipe is welded, and how "sharp" the stamped pipe is. Sharp, clear transitions between the different pipe sections = sharp pulses. This is the downside to hydroformed pipes - the transitions are kinda smeared and this smears out the pulses too.
2STROKE STUFFING So it’s actually better to have distinct transitions, not a smoother “flow”? Not doubting you, just trying to learn a bit on expansion chamber selection.
the one real free manner for driving faster, riding downhill badaboom