The brand is supposed to be couture house with minimalist look for ready-to-wear, but it have become like Balenciaga.. both brand losing their originality chasing trends, copying martin margiela, phoebe philo and rick owens with boring plain streetwear design.
Great video!! I was surprised at this news that he was leaving his post as Creative Director for Givenchy. I really loved his collections, especially his first few for the design house such as the Fall 2021 collection. I loved the styling, as it was tailored but with an edge and that fits my personal style. I know that’s not for everyone but I loved the hardware that he added to his pieces. I do have a couple of his blazers that I absolutely love. I did feel that his Spring 2024 collection was quite different than what he’s shown on the runway in the past. It felt like his take on the quiet luxury trend we’ve been seeing and I thought it was beautiful. I’m so curious as to who they will have take over. I still hope Sarah Burton goes somewhere or opens her own label because I love her designs as well. Her pieces are true works of art.
Honestly, there were some really great collections that never got the attention they deserved. Honestly his tailoring looks really nice, I would love to see if they go into the sales. Sarah Burton would do so well with her own brand. Thank you for watching❤
I feel like Williams' Givenchy had three main problems: Messy Brand Direction: Williams flip-flopped messily between deconstructed streetwear and bourgeois classics. The menswear and womenswear were often at "war" with each other, while stylists, photographers and other collaborators changed each season. One-sided Focus: While Alyx started as a womenswear label, the success of the menswear quickly eclipsed it in sales and visibility. At Givenchy, womens ready-to-wear and accessories act as the main support and he often neglected that side of the brand Outdated Vision: The general idea for Williams at Givenchy was to copy Demna at Balenciaga, which was just reaching its peak ay the time of Williams' appointment (back in June 2020). The issue is that most female luxury customers had already started to move onto something else. Along with that, the Balenciaga controversy two years later turned the whole aesthetic sour.
This response is perfect! I was skeptical when Matthew was announced as the creative director and with a few collections behind him, it was clear he wasn't going to last. All the reasons you mentioned are 100% spot on.
All great points! I did not know that about Alyx, I always thought Alyx was a strong menswear brand but didn't know it's start as mainly a womenswear label. Definitely, the decline in the Demna aesthetic is just off putting for many consumers.
Omg I’m so so happy you made this, I feel so much more informed now!!!! Truly I think so many people underestimate the challenge being a creative director is for such a large house… I honestly can’t even imagine. Givenchy has had several, quite frankly, nearly irreplaceable eras in my opinion, so the expectations are just enormous. I totally agree that Matthew Williams kind of never really found his footing here, although some of the clothes I thought were really nice. Also can’t imagine how difficult it must be to create new bag styles, let alone make new “it” bags, so it must have been frustrating to him that he never quite found his stride. I really think his own brand is where he shines so I’m excited to see how that evolves! Ugh and I’m SOOOOOO with you… could you imagine the epic-ness of a Simone Rocha Givenchy????? Truly we wouldn’t be worthy of that level of greatness 🤍🤍🤍🤍 However, I have a strong feeling Alessandro is going to be the one taking over (as you said either here or Fendi). And vogue just did a huge article on him so somethings definitely brewing 🧙♀️
Yes, there were moments where there was potential, but I think the importance of having that "it" bag or hero piece that defines this new era has to be so clear. And it's such a difficult thing to do when so many brands are trying to capture customers. I agree, I think he feels more himself at his own brand and that's where his heart is. OMG yes I skimmed through the Vogue article, but his house looks phenomenal! If not here he's likely going somewhere at LVMH👀
The problem with LVMH is that they’re worried about numbers Instead of the fashion pieces itself!! They’re acting like Kering now by putting the wrong person in charge of these houses!! Alessandro Michele does not need to be at Givenchy!! He doesn’t fit!! Givenchy is RTW and Haute Couture and Alessandro can’t do that so let’s be clear here; his vision has always been Gucci before and after Tom ford and Frida!! Now I definitely can see Haider there as well as Stefano Pilati and the great Robert Wun whom I feel should definitely get the job!!!! Grace is ok as well as Simone, but we don’t wanna see floral arrangements on the collections every season so it’s a no for me!!!!! Robert Wun please
Robert Wun would be soo good! But to your point LVMH needs immediate sales so they might go with someone with name recognition😔 I would love to see the legacy be translated by Ackerman or yes Pilati would be so good. I definitely am biased in that I love a 3D floral arrangement lol!
@@MarysRoom yes but also two things for sure about Pilati and Haider, they can design for both in which they’re trained for Unlike Kim at Dior whom I wish was let go and especially at Fendi and Maria at Dior ( I feel she has destroyed that brand and turned it into something else) The name itself can carry its weight, the problem is always the designer…. I would like to see a new head there, I wonder why they won’t try and give one of the new designers they elect with the prize money when they give the LVMH new designer award 🥇 to every year?? And quite honestly I believe Sarah from McQueen could do it but can she step outta her shell from McQueen?? And Claire Wright could definitely also do it
Yes the more you mention Pilati, especially with the recent collab at Fendi, his experience at YSL (in addition to creating coveted bags/accessories which is what LVMH wants) and Zegna, he would be such a good choice. I always love Sarah Burton's couture creations especially for red carpet events, but I don't think her work really translated into consistent sales, or at least in the way Kerring wanted it to. I absolutely would love for her to start her own brand.
Fully agree with your sleeping giant comment! I adore Givenchy and just haven't been inspired the past few years.. highly logo'd puffers?? I hope whoever takes over brings back the edge, geometry and well tailored blacks!
His work was a mix of Balenciaga meets Tisci meets streetwear and I don't think it was working for a brand like Givenchy. His attempted hero pieces like the shark boots with the lock and the lock bags were just revamped Tisci-era pieces. The Voyou bag looked like a Balenciaga City Bag. I would love to see a young designer take over, but Williams was not the right fit.
Givenchy was a growing brand during the entire tenure of Riccardo but sales have been going down since he left. Having talked to people in the industry, during Clare's time, the menswear was really the category that suffered the most as at Givenchy, sales were 50/50 and in 3 years, it was difficult to see a clear vision. Her Couture was really progressive and grandiose but there was a disconnect with her RTW that was almost Chloé -like. And she didn't took advantage of dressing Megan Markle. I think that's the aesthetic she should have continue with. With Matthew, sales really went down. They even stopped doing Couture. Apparently, sales weren't that bad in menswear because he went more with the Riccardo aesthetic but they relied a lot on accessories. There was a lack of coherence at the brand lately. They needs a designer with a strong aesthetic that would be translated in menswear and womenswear. That's how Riccardo was successful. Neither Galliano, McQueen, MacDonald, Weight Keller or Williams had a clear aesthetic for Givenchy. My personal picks are Grace Bonner and Haider Ackermann or Glenn Martens. I think they have strongs aesthetic overall but Haider and Glenn proved that they can do Couture, menswear and womenswear.
Ohh great points about Clare's time. I agree there was a lack of coherence and nothing immediately was able to resonate with the luxury customer. Thank you so much for sharing your perspective❤
matthew williams was never the right choice to lead givenchy. fabulous as he is, his core aesthetic was never going to be a good fit for the brand. i thought the clare waight keller era was awesome. it was nice to see femininity brought back to givenchy during her time there. if she wants to take on the challenge, grace wales bonner would be an excellent choice, but the problem is lvmh and their thirst for instant return on investment. i would hate to see a talent like wales bonner get shafted by the corporate machine not allowing her time to make a significant mark. i could see them bringing alessandro michele on as both a jab at kering, and to assure themselves of some first few collection hype, buzz and $$. it would also be interesting to see how (or if) an aesthetic that he's so connected with would evolve.
Yes definitely in hindsight, LVMH should have allowed Clare Waight Keller a little bit more time. Totally fair point about Grace Wales Bonner, she's definitely on the rise, but if she didn't reach LVMHs expectations, it might hurt her growth. Definitely Michele seems like the obvious choice and I too am curious to see if his aesthetic would evolve. Thank you for watching!
IMO, his early collections at Givenchy were way off. I understand the importance of streetwear, especially after Ricardo popularized it at the brand, but there was no trace of Hubert De Givenchy. It’s only been his last 3 or 4 collections where there has been an emphasis on the elegance and romanticism and couture. But by then it was too late. I also think Givenchy suffered from covid times. Wouldn’t it be incredible if Ricardo came back to the brand? His stint there rivaled mcqueens imo.
Totally agree, it felt too late when he started to bring the brand back to the elegance of Givenchy. Honestly, Tisci's Givenchy was the greatest commercial success Givenchy has experienced in recent years, but I don't think LVMH would bring him back. Thank you for watching Pat!!
He did the custom/couture looks well, but overall I thought his collections were messy. The incorporation of streetwear into the clothes just weren't hitting
I’m reading these comments and I’m also confused. Why do they not give a designer time to grow such as Chanel did w Karl. You cannot establish too much of an impact in only a few seasons. IMHO the management is lacking.this house has had Galliano Macqueen Julian McDonald Ricardo tisci Clair Waite Keller. Sad
Chito collab was fire shark boats still got females in a head lock I liked MW for givenchy he just wasn’t better than tici which isn’t easy to do. He did great!
I really liked his shark boots since Tisci but you're right. It's not easy to achieved what Tisci did, especially when LVMH wants immediate results. Thank you for watching Amy❤
if givenchy was smart...they wouldnt hire another creative director..but say they are going to put out "archive collections" recreate mcqueens, richardo clothes at givenchy for "limited drops" ...........they would sell out in seconds..cut their budget down significantly...and rescue this dead brand
LVMH been chasing what kayne likes for the past years it’s clear virgil an Mathew both worked with kayne funny how they went and grabbed all of Kaynes fashion associates lol
Thank God he is leaving, or fired….whatever case that is. Matthew Williams is a horrible designer, imo. Yes, I said it …..horrible designer. Even his own brand is horrible. Nothing creative about his designs. Just a bunch of mix mash of copies of a copy. Outdated weird aesthetic and poor tailoring. No one will spend money on such ugly junks. What was LVMH thinking?
Givenchy has been so confused since Ricardo Tisci left.
Yes I think it's a struggle not just Matthew Williams had but the brand as a whole. Thank you for watching!
The brand is supposed to be couture house with minimalist look for ready-to-wear, but it have become like Balenciaga.. both brand losing their originality chasing trends, copying martin margiela, phoebe philo and rick owens with boring plain streetwear design.
Claire Waight Keller was the best and understood the vision of Givenchy
@@denzelcraig5611 Nah that was Tisci
Great video!! I was surprised at this news that he was leaving his post as Creative Director for Givenchy. I really loved his collections, especially his first few for the design house such as the Fall 2021 collection. I loved the styling, as it was tailored but with an edge and that fits my personal style. I know that’s not for everyone but I loved the hardware that he added to his pieces. I do have a couple of his blazers that I absolutely love. I did feel that his Spring 2024 collection was quite different than what he’s shown on the runway in the past. It felt like his take on the quiet luxury trend we’ve been seeing and I thought it was beautiful. I’m so curious as to who they will have take over. I still hope Sarah Burton goes somewhere or opens her own label because I love her designs as well. Her pieces are true works of art.
Honestly, there were some really great collections that never got the attention they deserved. Honestly his tailoring looks really nice, I would love to see if they go into the sales. Sarah Burton would do so well with her own brand. Thank you for watching❤
I feel like Williams' Givenchy had three main problems:
Messy Brand Direction:
Williams flip-flopped messily between deconstructed streetwear and bourgeois classics. The menswear and womenswear were often at "war" with each other, while stylists, photographers and other collaborators changed each season.
One-sided Focus:
While Alyx started as a womenswear label, the success of the menswear quickly eclipsed it in sales and visibility. At Givenchy, womens ready-to-wear and accessories act as the main support and he often neglected that side of the brand
Outdated Vision:
The general idea for Williams at Givenchy was to copy Demna at Balenciaga, which was just reaching its peak ay the time of Williams' appointment (back in June 2020). The issue is that most female luxury customers had already started to move onto something else. Along with that, the Balenciaga controversy two years later turned the whole aesthetic sour.
This response is perfect! I was skeptical when Matthew was announced as the creative director and with a few collections behind him, it was clear he wasn't going to last. All the reasons you mentioned are 100% spot on.
All great points! I did not know that about Alyx, I always thought Alyx was a strong menswear brand but didn't know it's start as mainly a womenswear label. Definitely, the decline in the Demna aesthetic is just off putting for many consumers.
Omg I’m so so happy you made this, I feel so much more informed now!!!! Truly I think so many people underestimate the challenge being a creative director is for such a large house… I honestly can’t even imagine. Givenchy has had several, quite frankly, nearly irreplaceable eras in my opinion, so the expectations are just enormous. I totally agree that Matthew Williams kind of never really found his footing here, although some of the clothes I thought were really nice. Also can’t imagine how difficult it must be to create new bag styles, let alone make new “it” bags, so it must have been frustrating to him that he never quite found his stride. I really think his own brand is where he shines so I’m excited to see how that evolves! Ugh and I’m SOOOOOO with you… could you imagine the epic-ness of a Simone Rocha Givenchy????? Truly we wouldn’t be worthy of that level of greatness 🤍🤍🤍🤍
However, I have a strong feeling Alessandro is going to be the one taking over (as you said either here or Fendi). And vogue just did a huge article on him so somethings definitely brewing 🧙♀️
Yes, there were moments where there was potential, but I think the importance of having that "it" bag or hero piece that defines this new era has to be so clear. And it's such a difficult thing to do when so many brands are trying to capture customers. I agree, I think he feels more himself at his own brand and that's where his heart is.
OMG yes I skimmed through the Vogue article, but his house looks phenomenal! If not here he's likely going somewhere at LVMH👀
The problem with LVMH is that they’re worried about numbers Instead of the fashion pieces itself!!
They’re acting like Kering now by putting the wrong person in charge of these houses!!
Alessandro Michele does not need to be at Givenchy!! He doesn’t fit!!
Givenchy is RTW and Haute Couture and Alessandro can’t do that so let’s be clear here; his vision has always been Gucci before and after Tom ford and Frida!!
Now I definitely can see Haider there as well as Stefano Pilati and the great Robert Wun whom I feel should definitely get the job!!!!
Grace is ok as well as Simone, but we don’t wanna see floral arrangements on the collections every season so it’s a no for me!!!!!
Robert Wun please
Robert Wun would be soo good! But to your point LVMH needs immediate sales so they might go with someone with name recognition😔 I would love to see the legacy be translated by Ackerman or yes Pilati would be so good. I definitely am biased in that I love a 3D floral arrangement lol!
@@MarysRoom yes but also two things for sure about Pilati and Haider, they can design for both in which they’re trained for
Unlike Kim at Dior whom I wish was let go and especially at Fendi and Maria at Dior ( I feel she has destroyed that brand and turned it into something else)
The name itself can carry its weight, the problem is always the designer…. I would like to see a new head there, I wonder why they won’t try and give one of the new designers they elect with the prize money when they give the LVMH new designer award 🥇 to every year??
And quite honestly I believe Sarah from McQueen could do it but can she step outta her shell from McQueen??
And Claire Wright could definitely also do it
Yes the more you mention Pilati, especially with the recent collab at Fendi, his experience at YSL (in addition to creating coveted bags/accessories which is what LVMH wants) and Zegna, he would be such a good choice. I always love Sarah Burton's couture creations especially for red carpet events, but I don't think her work really translated into consistent sales, or at least in the way Kerring wanted it to. I absolutely would love for her to start her own brand.
Fully agree with your sleeping giant comment! I adore Givenchy and just haven't been inspired the past few years.. highly logo'd puffers?? I hope whoever takes over brings back the edge, geometry and well tailored blacks!
Yes it has so much potential. It just needs the right designer, creative and business team. Thank you for watching❤
His work was a mix of Balenciaga meets Tisci meets streetwear and I don't think it was working for a brand like Givenchy. His attempted hero pieces like the shark boots with the lock and the lock bags were just revamped Tisci-era pieces. The Voyou bag looked like a Balenciaga City Bag. I would love to see a young designer take over, but Williams was not the right fit.
Yes I would love to see a younger designer take over too! Thank you for watching❤
Givenchy was a growing brand during the entire tenure of Riccardo but sales have been going down since he left.
Having talked to people in the industry, during Clare's time, the menswear was really the category that suffered the most as at Givenchy, sales were 50/50 and in 3 years, it was difficult to see a clear vision. Her Couture was really progressive and grandiose but there was a disconnect with her RTW that was almost Chloé -like. And she didn't took advantage of dressing Megan Markle. I think that's the aesthetic she should have continue with.
With Matthew, sales really went down. They even stopped doing Couture. Apparently, sales weren't that bad in menswear because he went more with the Riccardo aesthetic but they relied a lot on accessories.
There was a lack of coherence at the brand lately. They needs a designer with a strong aesthetic that would be translated in menswear and womenswear. That's how Riccardo was successful. Neither Galliano, McQueen, MacDonald, Weight Keller or Williams had a clear aesthetic for Givenchy.
My personal picks are Grace Bonner and Haider Ackermann or Glenn Martens. I think they have strongs aesthetic overall but Haider and Glenn proved that they can do Couture, menswear and womenswear.
Ohh great points about Clare's time. I agree there was a lack of coherence and nothing immediately was able to resonate with the luxury customer. Thank you so much for sharing your perspective❤
Tom Ford!
Ralph Lauren!
Will Givenchy ever return to Rottweiler Tee notoriety? That’s one for the ages
OMG, it brings me back!
@@MarysRoom ikr! With the leather joggers😂😂
matthew williams was never the right choice to lead givenchy. fabulous as he is, his core aesthetic was never going to be a good fit for the brand.
i thought the clare waight keller era was awesome. it was nice to see femininity brought back to givenchy during her time there.
if she wants to take on the challenge, grace wales bonner would be an excellent choice, but the problem is lvmh and their thirst for instant return on investment. i would hate to see a talent like wales bonner get shafted by the corporate machine not allowing her time to make a significant mark.
i could see them bringing alessandro michele on as both a jab at kering, and to assure themselves of some first few collection hype, buzz and $$. it would also be interesting to see how (or if) an aesthetic that he's so connected with would evolve.
Yes definitely in hindsight, LVMH should have allowed Clare Waight Keller a little bit more time. Totally fair point about Grace Wales Bonner, she's definitely on the rise, but if she didn't reach LVMHs expectations, it might hurt her growth. Definitely Michele seems like the obvious choice and I too am curious to see if his aesthetic would evolve. Thank you for watching!
IMO, his early collections at Givenchy were way off. I understand the importance of streetwear, especially after Ricardo popularized it at the brand, but there was no trace of Hubert De Givenchy. It’s only been his last 3 or 4 collections where there has been an emphasis on the elegance and romanticism and couture. But by then it was too late. I also think Givenchy suffered from covid times. Wouldn’t it be incredible if Ricardo came back to the brand? His stint there rivaled mcqueens imo.
Totally agree, it felt too late when he started to bring the brand back to the elegance of Givenchy. Honestly, Tisci's Givenchy was the greatest commercial success Givenchy has experienced in recent years, but I don't think LVMH would bring him back. Thank you for watching Pat!!
Please get Riccardo back!
He did the custom/couture looks well, but overall I thought his collections were messy. The incorporation of streetwear into the clothes just weren't hitting
Yes, definitely. It was hard for the luxury customer to see his vision. Thank you for watching❤
I’m reading these comments and I’m also confused. Why do they not give a designer time to grow such as Chanel did w Karl. You cannot establish too much of an impact in only a few seasons. IMHO the management is lacking.this house has had
Galliano
Macqueen
Julian McDonald
Ricardo tisci
Clair Waite Keller. Sad
I never thought Matthew Williams was a good choice for Givenchy. Claire Keller was the best in my opinion
Her couture was beautiful❤
Thank goodness tbh
Chito collab was fire shark boats still got females in a head lock I liked MW for givenchy he just wasn’t better than tici which isn’t easy to do. He did great!
I really liked his shark boots since Tisci but you're right. It's not easy to achieved what Tisci did, especially when LVMH wants immediate results. Thank you for watching Amy❤
if givenchy was smart...they wouldnt hire another creative director..but say they are going to put out "archive collections" recreate mcqueens, richardo clothes at givenchy for "limited drops" ...........they would sell out in seconds..cut their budget down significantly...and rescue this dead brand
Givenchy is such a mess now and so forgettable. I think it's best he moves on.
Yes definitely needs to figure itself out. Thank you so much for watching❤
LVMH been chasing what kayne likes for the past years it’s clear virgil an Mathew both worked with kayne funny how they went and grabbed all of Kaynes fashion associates lol
Ohh great observation!!
Thank God he is leaving, or fired….whatever case that is. Matthew Williams is a horrible designer, imo. Yes, I said it …..horrible designer. Even his own brand is horrible. Nothing creative about his designs. Just a bunch of mix mash of copies of a copy. Outdated weird aesthetic and poor tailoring. No one will spend money on such ugly junks. What was LVMH thinking?
As a fan of Alyx, his work at Givenchy was awful.