I ABSOLUTLY LOVE THE BURP DRAFT!! I never heard of it before. I always let the non-collapsable draft section fill with tank water before I spun the impeller to "catch a draft." The trick to making sure your draft section filled with water was to watch the bubbles (displaced air pocket) rise to the surface of the water. When the bubbles slow from many to few it means you have displaced enough air to reverse the flow in the tube. The Burp Draft is much more efficient!! Bravo to the brothers who figured out how to do it (was it y'all that was the first to think of it?). Helpful hint: Lug onto an available 2-1/2" discharge port and throw the open butt into the drink as a Prime Retention Line (PRL). Crack the PRL just enough to maintain a draft and you never lose prime. Chief Hughes Battalion 1 (retired) Chicago FD PS Love that cab over Ford! I drove them as an Engr. The 5 speed stick (pumped in 5th gear) was a joy to drive. Pump and roll capability if you knew how to defeat the drive axle while coasting.
How do I get one of those shirts? Great job!!! We taught a pump course this past weekend and introduced to the new operators Works GREAT!!!!! We don't do alot of drafting in our area. We love our hydrants :)) You described this the best Ive seen Even I can understand it :)))))
Yes, since its vented its functionally the same as any discharge. I was taught on older engines that I could throttle up to my discharge pressure and set my relief valve by thinking of it as a discharge and then switch from the tank fill to the discharge that line is hooked to because both were 2-1/2" and it would be close to your pdp. Now with pressure mode and poly tanks its not really relevant.
Wouldn’t this cause cavitation in the pump? Pumping air through it at high load? Obviously if your primer isn’t working and you need water you do what you gotta do.
If you have a full tank could you not also prime your drafting line by backfilling it with water? Acknowledged, it wouldn't work so well if your drafting lines have a foot-valve.
@@bryanb7471 we're all air primers now so I don't worry about wear and tear. If you arn't in a rush it's still a good thing to practice just in case you need it.
@@orange3203 Our newest has an air primer with auto function, super nice. The others are still vane primers. Still a good skill to practice as you said.
This is the way I learned, and understood it to be easier on the pump that trying to push bursts of air thru. Also, I havent tested that exact scenario but our two newest pieces have electronic pump control that bugs out when it senses air in the pump and will throttle down to idle automatically. I have had a slug of air when going from tank to pressurized water supply, despite bleeding all apparent air cause this to happen, multiple times with one apparatus to the point I now expect it and account for it. Mostly I'm running a top mount with plumbed electric intake valves and triple air primers so burping is not really an issue often but good to know how to deal if all else fails.
Have been given two reasons, one being that on a hill you might have preference between a front and rear to get all the tank capacity. The other reason is the limitation of a single 2 or 2.5" connection on flow, with it being necessary to have two tank to pump valves if running a deluge at higher discharge volumes. Both have some merit and some potential drawbacks. I also don't mind the idea of having a backup to get tank water in a situation where quick water from the tank is imperative early in an operation.
I ABSOLUTLY LOVE THE BURP DRAFT!! I never heard of it before. I always let the non-collapsable draft section fill with tank water before I spun the impeller to "catch a draft." The trick to making sure your draft section filled with water was to watch the bubbles (displaced air pocket) rise to the surface of the water. When the bubbles slow from many to few it means you have displaced enough air to reverse the flow in the tube. The Burp Draft is much more efficient!! Bravo to the brothers who figured out how to do it (was it y'all that was the first to think of it?).
Helpful hint:
Lug onto an available 2-1/2" discharge port and throw the open butt into the drink as a Prime Retention Line (PRL). Crack the PRL just enough to maintain a draft and you never lose prime.
Chief Hughes
Battalion 1 (retired)
Chicago FD
PS Love that cab over Ford! I drove them as an Engr. The 5 speed stick (pumped in 5th gear) was a joy to drive. Pump and roll capability if you knew how to defeat the drive axle while coasting.
Great video, even better boots.
Great start to series... looking fwd to the next vid
Thanks! Stay tuned! Episode 2 drops on Monday.
Sounds good other than the tank fill valve flowing at 150 psi could easily dislodge the baffles in the tank closest to the tank fill inlet.
How do I get one of those shirts? Great job!!! We taught a pump course this past weekend and introduced to the new operators Works GREAT!!!!! We don't do alot of drafting in our area. We love our hydrants :)) You described this the best Ive seen Even I can understand it :)))))
Overflowing the apparatus tank when the outside temperature is below freezing will also cause big problems.
We call that back flow prime and it can be done without a intake valve. Just more efficient with the valve.
SO am i understanding correctly that tank fill is enough to suffice the "must be flowing water" in the 4 must?
si.
Yes, since its vented its functionally the same as any discharge. I was taught on older engines that I could throttle up to my discharge pressure and set my relief valve by thinking of it as a discharge and then switch from the tank fill to the discharge that line is hooked to because both were 2-1/2" and it would be close to your pdp. Now with pressure mode and poly tanks its not really relevant.
Wouldn’t this cause cavitation in the pump? Pumping air through it at high load? Obviously if your primer isn’t working and you need water you do what you gotta do.
If you have a full tank could you not also prime your drafting line by backfilling it with water? Acknowledged, it wouldn't work so well if your drafting lines have a foot-valve.
This is another technique. You let water back out the suction. Very slowly increase your rpms and you will reverse the flow of the water.
I do this pretty much as a default. Often faster than priming and saves wear on the primer.
@@bryanb7471 we're all air primers now so I don't worry about wear and tear. If you arn't in a rush it's still a good thing to practice just in case you need it.
@@orange3203 Our newest has an air primer with auto function, super nice. The others are still vane primers. Still a good skill to practice as you said.
This is the way I learned, and understood it to be easier on the pump that trying to push bursts of air thru. Also, I havent tested that exact scenario but our two newest pieces have electronic pump control that bugs out when it senses air in the pump and will throttle down to idle automatically. I have had a slug of air when going from tank to pressurized water supply, despite bleeding all apparent air cause this to happen, multiple times with one apparatus to the point I now expect it and account for it. Mostly I'm running a top mount with plumbed electric intake valves and triple air primers so burping is not really an issue often but good to know how to deal if all else fails.
Can you still Do Burb Drafting while flowing landlines?
they discussed it near the end of the video
Thats it, we're going to start carrying bowling pins instead of dead blows.
Why you have two handles for tank to pump?
Have been given two reasons, one being that on a hill you might have preference between a front and rear to get all the tank capacity. The other reason is the limitation of a single 2 or 2.5" connection on flow, with it being necessary to have two tank to pump valves if running a deluge at higher discharge volumes. Both have some merit and some potential drawbacks. I also don't mind the idea of having a backup to get tank water in a situation where quick water from the tank is imperative early in an operation.