Use my method and skip the Wash and Cure for resin prints
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- This is my process for washing my 3d prints. It is cheap and effective. I think a wash and cure is a solution looking for a problem.
Follow me on instagram for posts of my paint jobs and 3d prints.
/ jojothegm
Email for anyone interested: jojothegm@gmail.com
This is the UV curing lamp I used in the video:
3D Printer UV Resin Curing Light with Solar Turntable 360°Rotating Stand for SLA DLP LCD 3D Printer Solidify Photosensitive Resin 405nm UV Resin Affect, DIY Curing Enclosure
www.amazon.com...
![BETTER cleaning & curing of 3D resin prints [EASY METHOD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kL9TCjtPbw4/mqdefault.jpg)
I added a link to the UV lamp used in the video to the description.
My tips to let the alcohol dry really fast is to whip the model to let go the pooled up alcohol on the corner of the model, be careful with your grip to not throw the model across the room
You sound like a professor I had in college and I never stayed away in his class. I’m going to watch this on nights that I have insomnia.
With denatured alcohol and especially clear prints, you need to find a brand that doesn't have additives with unwanted properties. Often by trial and error, as not all brands list all the ingredients. Some have a bad smelling agent and the smell stays, and some contain MEK, which dissolves the prints a bit and makes the surface more matte or a bit sticky. I also had one that contained I don't know what, but my best guess hydrogen peroxide. I washed my FDM printer bearings with it because I wanted to relubricate them, and they rusted immediately. Had to get new ones. At least avoid the ones marketed as intended specifically for sanitization/antimicrobial applications.
I use a good one I get from my local hardware store. I checked the MSDS to make sure it didn't have any nonsense in it.
That is good advice though!
Thanks for watching!
My dude! I was one the brink of buying a wash/cure station, you just saved my a$$ a ton of cash. Works great my guy. Good tip,SUBSCRIBED.
I'm happy I could help!
That is the only reason I made this channel. I wanted to help people out as much as I could and videos work better than writing an essay every time someone asks for advice 😂.
Thanks for showing the results and explaining the washing & curing times you use! Over washing could explain why my prints on 4k aren't as crisp as expected
I'm glad I helped! Thanks for watching!
I knew nothing about 3d printing but since I found your channel I know all I need to build my own things and do it right. So thank you very much.
I'm glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
You never skipped any wash or cure process.. Why the title when you DO in fact, wash and cure?
I'm referring to the Wash and Cure machines.
Wash and Cure is a colloquialism in the 3d printing community referring to the machines that are an all in one.
you cant even skip it, you HAVE to wash and cure.
@@jojothegm no, it is not. your title is misleading and your advices are bad.
@@probablyblue426 You can skip the wash and cure machines and save money, thats the point here and as someone getting into 3d printing, these wash and cure station have kept me away, but showing that you can do it with a few tupperware containers and denatured alcohol for cheaper really helps.
@@mikejones-vd3fg cheaper - less comfortable and less convenient
Love that you mention to be responsible with cutting all the waste, nice job!
Thank you!
@@jojothegm I saw a video of a guy that just threw his stuff in the trash without baking it first. GRRRRRR. :( His response to me asking if he could please throw an LED in the trash for a bit just to make it inert... he said, "Thanks for your response." We all have to be good stewards with this stuff!
Great video! Really easy method, and I think I have soaked the prints for way to long in the IPA. Gonna try your method now:))
Thanks! I'm glad it helped!
@@jojothegm It really did! Thanks:)
This literally doesn't skip the wash & cure steps. This is the default method without a Wash&Cure Station. But anyway thank you for the details and tips & tricks it is helpful for a newby like me but I anticipated something else from the title
Thanks for watching!
Ah I was always scared of not washing my prints enough. Looks like I've been washing them too much. Same with curing.
I switched to a hot gun instead of water because where i live we hardly get any sun and it takes forever for the water to evaporate, especially when I'm printing a much at once.
Overall good video.
Thanks!
A heat gun is a good idea.
well I really think I should at least pre wash my prints in container with separate ipa and using some brush. Yesterday I was cleaning my wash station (elegoo mercury) and it was messy and painful. This way I will keep IPA in main wash station at least cleaner for MUCH longer time. and if main wash station IPA is dirty, still can reuse it as a pre-wash and not throw it away.
Using Wash station is definitely comfortable but putting there whole buildplate with plenty of resin on it and on prints isn't wise idea if you don't want to clean station after every 5th print
That is a great plan. It is super easy to use my method and use the wash and cure station for the final cleaning. Your IPA will last a lot longer in the station doing it that way.
@@jojothegm Well I hope exactly for that. Once it will become dirty, than I reuse it for initial cleaning
Thanks for the information. I like your BOX UV setup. Going to do this...well...right now.... :)
It is cheap and effective. Thanks for watching!
hi sir i like the process you use i am completely new in 3d printing but i have a question when we are now cleaning how to store the alcohol should we completely seal container or we need to leav little space open for air
Completely seal the container.
Well, I use water-washable resin, hot water (about 45°C) and the Wash & Cure machine and I am very satisied. What is the best of it is the curing. There is only one thing to take care of - before you cure it, the print itself should be dry as much as possible. If not, you get somethiong I call 'maps' or almoost white (I use light grey resin) spots on place what were wet. It don's destroy details but it is quite disturbing and I must use base color to get rid of it. For me it's ok because I paint it anyway.
I'm glad it is working for you.
Glad to see I don't need more stuff!!
It leaves plenty of space for piles of 3d printed models 😂.
Get a flexible magnetic plate. I never have issue removing models.
I had one and I didn't like it. I'm glad it works for you though. Thanks for watching!
Hello from the couch in my living room!
My guy 😎
I live in the UK. I tried looking for "denatured alcohol" online, since everyone says its better for resin. But all I get is IPA and purple methyl alcohol results.
Denatured alcohol is what it's called in the States. In the UK, you'd want to look for methylated spirit. Same basic thing.
I believe it is called methylated spirits there.
@@jojothegm I see, Im not British. i just live here. Thats why I didnt know that. But Ill keep it in mind the next time I buy some supplies. Thanks. 👍
Your exposure time on those bottom layers is quite high! That is why you are having a hard time removing them from the plate!
I know. I reduced it on the future prints.
get a flex palte to fix the stuck to the build plate. I will never understand why people don't get them, they're cheap; easy to instal and save you a ton of headache
I bought a flex plate and hated it. When the peel force is strong enough the plate can come loose or shift.
I don't have that issue anymore. It was something about those STLs. Everything else came off easily. I reduced the exposure after this print and they came off with no effort.
Now I wash the build plate in the dirty wash with everything still attached so I have even less of a reason to use a flex plate.
thanks for the video, can you please tell something about fumes? i see you have a mask and some devices to filter air. there is no good video on that topic. would be nice of you could make one
All I know about the fumes are that I don't want to breathe them in. My advice is only print in a well ventilated area and wear a respirator when dealing with resin or solvents.
Best way I can describe them is when you pass the Nail place at the mall (or walk into one). It is the same smell, and without ventilation easily as powerful. If you do it in the house, I recommend using a box fan in a window. Just remember you need to keep uv light away from your printer.
You need to purchase flex plate for your printer, looking how you scratching build platform - it is like a knife in heart )))
I had a flex plate. I didn't like it. Also, scratches on the build plate don't hurt print adhesion. Mine looks like it has been through World War 3 but I never have issues. In the video I just hadn't reduced my base layer exposure yet. Now everything pops right off.
Why do you dry your prints before putting them in hot water? That looks like a good step to do after.
I like your DIY curing station, and your models look awesome.
I've started removing my models from the supports while they are still drippy and on the build plate. The plate makes a good handle, and I have less to process so my alcohol stays cleaner longer. I remove the rafts and supports from the plate with the metal scraper and a little rubber mallet, then it goes back on the machine without cleaning. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but it's working so far.
I want to reduce the amount of alcohol I get in my water. I use an old microwave to heat my water up. I don't want to see what happens when you microwave water saturated with denatured alcohol 😂.
How do you clean the supports before disposal with your method?
@@jojothegm I haven't got that far yet; I've just started out. I'm collecting most of the dirty supports and will sit them out in the sun when we have a warm sunny day. Then toss them in the bin after they've cured for a good while. I wash and cure a few of the supports; they make good handles when cleaning the FEP.
@@jojothegm Probably nothing happens -- except it gets hot -- but best not to find out 😁 (this was supposed to be a reply to the microwaving alcohol comment but it got threaded wrong)
I just appreciate that you plan to dispose of them properly by curing them first.
Thanks for watching!
Flex plate, great investment
I had one. I didn't like it.
I fr should of watched this before I printed my model 😅
At least you watched it now 😎
Thanks for watching!
@@jojothegm ofc man i unfortunately didn’t have all the stuff u did but I used water and isopropyl alcohol separately and it worked I use a creality ld006
Waiting for my first resin printer to arrive in the mail (been FDM printing for 7 years), can't help but being confused reading the title and watching the video. Because you did wash and cure the parts, so what am i missing? You didn't leave them in the alcohol and under the lamp as long as people normally do, but you did still do it, right?
I didn't use a Wash and Cure station.
I don't leave the parts in the denatured alcohol for very long because you don't need to. The prints get cleaned really quick if you have clean solvent.
I don't cure them as long as others because most people over cure their models.
I mainly made this video because of all the misinformation out there. People insisted you needed a wash and cure machine when you don't and they also were cooking their models which makes them fragile.
@@jojothegm oh, i see. Seems a bit clickbait tbh then. You don't skip those steps, you just don't use a w&c station (like many people don't). I feel you should have put the emphasis on correct wash and cure times, rather than saying to skip those steps in the title, which is simply false. Interesting video none the less.
thank you for this video
Thank you for watching!
I Buy the lamp one minute ago... how hot is the hot water?
The water is just got enough that you can feel the heat through the gloves and it is a little uncomfortable. You don't want the water boiling hot.
DId i really need the turntable? im thinking in place the lamp over the print and a mirror under it, in an enclosed box with foil.
That would also work.
My lamp came with the turntable and it was really cheap.
I do all this and my print has been curing for hours and is still super wet
Make sure you final wash is super clean alcohol. It also needs to dry before you cure it under the UV light.
Was that Zacama?
Yes it was! You can check out Mini Monster Mayhem for the STL. They make great sculpts.
👷👍
😎
How much time do you put the model in hot water?
Not very long. Less than 30 seconds most of the time.
So is it bad if you go beyond 60 secs?
It depends on the resin. I try to follow the instructions the manufacturer recommends.
Just remember if you over cure you are making your resin models more fragile.
And there's me, who never cure my prints at all 🗿
i always skip the cure part since i only printed keycaps but i guess i should buy that uv lamp.
Edit : i use water based resin
With keycaps it might not be a big deal.
The issue with minis is they end up becoming very brittle without an appropriate final cure.
I do not like water washable resin at all for printing minis but it seems like it would work well for keycaps.
could you break down what you Curing station is?
Yes. I meant to mention it in the video.
3D Printer UV Resin Curing Light with Solar Turntable 360°Rotating Stand for SLA DLP LCD 3D Printer Solidify Photosensitive Resin 405nm UV Resin Affect, DIY Curing Enclosure www.amazon.com/dp/B083ZFH24H/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_76PTC65WHM3Y0TM7MHKB
I use that and I lined the box it arrived in with foil. I just used school glue to glue it in.
@@jojothegm thanks! So instead of a couple hundred on a wash and cure I could spend about 60
What exactly is the dirty wash?
The older denatured alcohol that has a lot of resin in it from washing models. When my clean wash starts to get dirty I top off the alcohol in the dirty wash and fill up the clean wash with fresh alcohol.
It allows you to extend the life of the clean wash by getting most of the resin off the models with the dirty wash. So you change out your alcohol less often.
How hot is the hot water
Somewhere past room temp but before it is hot enough to burn me. There isn't a set temp.
Oh my goodness. My eyes bleeding when I see you with the metal scraper. Is for you no problem, if you destroy the surface from the Build Plate ?
If the build plate is perfectly smooth nothing will stick to it. It is fine to scrape it with a metal scraper.
@@jojothegm Okay, know I understand you. I do the build plate sandblasting. This is why I’m very careful with it. I can sandblasting in my work.