Jeep Rear Plate DIY Build with ICECO 50L Refrigerator Install - simple alternative to Goose Gear
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Create a simple plate for rear (leaving rear seats in place) in order to create a platform for mounting a slide mount for fridge as well as future cabinet install. Can save you a ton of coin. Cost for this DIY is about 100 dollars all total even at today's outrageous lumber costs. David goes into detail on how he built a simple platform plate out of birch plywood to create a stable platform to mount the ICECO slide mount with 50L refrigerator.
For detailed plans and measurements including needed hardware check out our blog entry on www.amaysingli... and you can make one too. NOTE: review your measurements for variances.
*ICECO JP50 Portable Refrigerator Fridge Freezer: amzn.to/2T2Bynn
*ICECO Slide Mount for JP30 JP40 JP50 Portable Refrigerator: amzn.to/3dhLJLq
*Jackery Solar Generator 1000 with 2 100W Solar Panels: amzn.to/3gZEpq8
*Jackery Power Outdoors direct website link: www.jackery.co...
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I'm getting ready to do the same thing... and hoping that my ICECO APL55 fits on the slider while mounted... currently my rear seats are out but will be putting them back in soon. Goose Gear uses birch wood as well,. They make a great product but I dont want to relocate or remove my sub woofer... so it's DIY. Great video.
Thanks! Good luck with your install!
Not sure how I missed this video. I’m filming our fridge install today and tomorrow. So this sparks my curiosity
Well the diagram certainly won’t help you but possibly the idea will. Next is to create a cabinet to the right of the fridge..
What I really want is a setup that has a quick release where I can remove the cabinet when I want… if you have ideas on that I’m all ears
Well, I took what should have been a easy install and make it a complete mess. Was trying to film it and it just came all apart on me. And I still have concerns as the fridge will be out in the elements. Going to get a cover for it, and I’m going to move my tent to the other side, which means moving my basket and awning… but it will give it cover as well… all in the name of cold food 😂
Quick release cabinet… without seeing a drawing or something… I instantly think of a hood pin or something you could set it down on and put the pin in to secure it. But you’d have studs sticking up all the time…
Many thanks, I'm building one now!
good luck, let me know how it goes!
Never apologize for wearing eye protection, if you were wearing a SCUBA mask I would have just smiled; two thumbs up!!! Thanks for this...Goose Gear is crazy expensive here in Canada, and it's 80/20 and simple panels.
Boring out the holes was a good idea, that wood may expand or contract depending on the climate where you live; the ply won't crack.
Thanks for that!!
It’s perfect timing that I found this! I’m starting the exact project for our JLU! My (on paper) plans are identical to what you did with your Jeep. Thank you!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
@@aMAYSingLife I got my plate cut out yesterday, and one thing to note, is that your plans are for a JLU that does not have the factory installed subwoofer. My Jeep has the subwoofer and; the plate is narrower by a few inches, the notches near the door opening are slightly different, and the mounting holes are in a different location. The procedure in your video is spot on for both models, but the plans are different.
@@chrisgardnerss I thought I said mine was a Willy’s but I don’t think I stated about the sub…. I need to put that on the sheet with the plans… thanks for that.. luckily it’s bigger not smaller than needed…
@@aMAYSingLife The video is still super helpful; even when building one for the "with sub" model!
@@chrisgardnerss thanks for that.. do you know exactly how off it is or is it a curve you have to cutout for the sub? Or did it shrink the width all the way back
Thanks for this video, I was about to go with goose gear plate system but I didn’t need all the drawers either, just a mounting solution for my fridge slide.
Full disclosure I ended up having to get the goosegear system because I needed the storage it offered underneath but this solution got me the first year while I was figuring out my final build. Good luck in your build!
You make it look easy, I like that set up!
Thanks! Hoping I can create a removable cabinet on the right side. I want quick release or something so I can have it out when not camping. Haven’t decided what the solution is there yet
Thanks for the video and going to go a very similar route but luckily no rear seats in jeep build.
I’m actually selling the rear plate and rails as due to my full build I needed to go to the full goosegear setup.. if you are interested let me know
@@aMAYSingLife Thanks but for now just looking for the front setup as I rarely have passengers, just the wife and off camping..
Thanks for the video, it's exactly what I was looking for. I do not see that the thickness of the plywood is listed anywhere, can you please advise what you used. Thanks again for sharing the measurements!
I used birch 1/2”.
Love the Shirt. DANG you were Off a bit on the seat not locking.
Oh the part I didn’t record in that… would have been a lot of bleeps… lol.. couldn’t believe I missed it by that short amount
Great video, thanks for sharing your rear plate solution!
Thank you!!
@@aMAYSingLife How thick is your plywood used? 1/2 or 3/4?
@@xiaohuifu8229 i went with 1/2” and it was plenty strong.. no need to go 3/4
@@aMAYSingLife Thanks! It looks great!
hi, i'm coming over from Primal Outdoors - Jason
Very nice to have you aboard! Thanks for stopping by! I hope not to disappoint
Awesome t-shirt! LOL
Yeah, I was surprised KLIM put that shirt out to be honest... I decided to get it before it got canceled :).
I'm wondering, could you not have just elongated the mounting holes for the plate, and just slid the whole plate and fridge assembly back a 1/4 or 1/2 inch?
So sliding back 1/4” would have made it interfere with the 40% seat that I left from fully locking in place.. I actually had it there first only to discover it was an issue and had to move it forward to fix. As it is, the fridge rests directly against the seat and therefore very secure. I have since replaced the rear plate with goosegear because I removed the 60% and needed storage. It became more than I wanted to deal with to figure all that out. It isn’t cheap but it does fit together beautifully.
@@aMAYSingLife I am glad you're happy. I am still trying to figure out what I will do, I am handy and think I can build something with 80/20 and HDPE panels or plastic-hair ABS. My problem with drawers and built-ins, is the weight and my project is a 2dr. I lost both of my legs and am recovering from the second amputation, so I have 3-4 months before I have the new prosthetic and am fit enough to build; lots of time to plan. Cheers fella!!!
@@geographyinaction7814 good luck on your project!! I’d love to be that handy with carpentry tools, alas, that isn’t my forte!!
I’m in Chattanooga
Welcome Iva!!
Very nice.🙂☝👍
Thanks!
So the dimensions on the website are the corrected dimensions meaning they don't need to be redrilled am I correct
I would check by using those dimensions on a cardboard template to verify. But I measured it as close as possible..
Did nearly the same last week, before having seen your video here :) good to see it, will get a iceco32 for my jeep. Will you build in anything else? I plan a drawer on the right side for kitchen stuff and a vector cargo basket above.
Honestly, if i had it to do all over again, not sure i would build it. I met a company at Overland Expo West called Dirtbox. US Made. Good gear. They have a rear plate for 270 i think is what it was. Not sure given the cost of the lumber and maybe 150 in labor that i would build it again. I’m desperately needing a cabinet to the right of my fridge. I may go dirtbox with that though. Nice people, American made. And would save me a ton of time. Haven’t decided yet but thats what I’m leaning toward. I’m also looking to remove rear seats as I am looking to get the Ursa Minor camping lid. They have a back log though so it will be a while before I will need to reconfigure the seats for that purpose.
@@aMAYSingLife Can't find DirtBox anywhere in the internet
What size wood inserts did you use to mount the slide? And what screw length. My slide will be here in a couple days and I made a similar deck to mount it on in my 80 series.
This will depend somewhat on what slide you use as the size of the holes in the slide will dictate the size of the bolts you use. And the wood inserts simply match the bolt size used to go through the slide. I actually didn’t record what i purchased unfortunately but that is how i decided the size was based on the holes in the iceco fridge mount. The instructions should say that came with the slide. Sorry about that. I have regretted that since as i have been asked about it a few times now..
@@aMAYSingLife no problem. I will be running the same fridge/slide setup as you. I just wanted to purchase the bite before the slide showed up. Not a big deal.
Just saw your car at Costco 😳
hope thats not a bad thing lol... Holly took it instead of her Cherokee. She needed the fridge in the back since we live so far away... I've been surprised how useful having a fridge in the back all the time is.
What size are the bolts that you used to bolt down the fridge? And If I ma doing this with a JP40, would I have the same issue with the rear seat?
You are going to hate my response but its what I have... Unfortunately I lost the sizing information somewhere between ACE hardware and home. however, I'm going to go outside right now and take them out and measure them because I keep getting asked and its stupid i don't know. So give me a bit and I'll let you know. On the size of the 40... hmmm.. That's hard to say because I think the 40 is shorter than the 50 but is the same footprint if I'm not mistaken. If that is the case, then you may not have the issue I had. If it uses the same slide then you know its going to go back as far as mine, however, mine was only an issue because it was as tall as it was, so dropping it two inches might be enough to not be a problem. All i can say on that is be sure to place your fridge in the slide in the back with the seat up so you know exactly what you can get away with. i'll let you know shortly what size i used...
oh, and here is a twist to this... i am ending up getting the goosegear system because i am doing a seat delete and I needed solid storage area where the seat went and i need storage in the back too because of a topper I'm getting (video coming on that - probably next weeks video). While this version has done well for me once I started needing exacting sizes in order to extend out further it got pretty complicated. Plus, I really need the storage capabilities and didn't trust my skills to make it work the way i wanted.
@@aMAYSingLife thanks for the quick reply, I think this kind of setup will be perfect for me. I am trying my best to keep everything small enough to fit under a fabtech shelf, and also keep my fast back soft top. Wanting the best of both worlds. My fridge and slide come tomorrow so I already made my cuts and test fit the plywood. Just waiting on the main attractions to finalize it. Then onto building a box for the other side. If I was video savvy, I'd record what I was doing and post it. Hahahahaha
.75 length, 5/16" width and 3/16 allen head
and just get the wood inserts to fit the bolts.
Can some one advise what is the wood plate thickness????
99% sure it was 3/8".. Can't believe I didn't include that in the measurements.. my bad.. www.amaysinglife.com/blog/2021/6/27/diy-jeep-jlu-rear-plate-refrigerator-mount-design-and-install/
nice build what size of nutserts did you use thanks
man, second person to ask me that.. I actually dont know now as i used them all but it actually doesn't matter as long as the bolt goes through the slide holes and the nutsert is made to penetrate the majority of the plywood. so its 1/2 inch plywood so that would be the length of the nutsert. (is that a real term? lol). then just get a bolt to match and you should be good to go. I will take one of the bolts out next time i'm near ACE and pair it with one that fits just so i can update the details on the website. sorry for missing that!!
@@aMAYSingLife thanks for the reply man! its called teenuts haha i saw some put 5/16 but how was it holding up and hows the fridge
@@m1gz883 It's totally solid. I'm really happy with it. The fridge has been great too. With the Jackery 1000 I can run it for days so power management has been really easy even when gone for weeks at a time. either it gets charged back by sun or by the jeep but I never run out of juice. I rarely even bother to put the fridge in "eco" mode. just hasn't been necessary.
I will say if you are looking to make your own, I would highly consider DirtBox (not affiliated, just saw them at Overland West). I think their rear plate is 290 or something like that and I believe you have access to the compartment underneath which would be really nice. I didn't make a cutout for that so I just lost that space. Considering time and money, 290 isn't bad for a rear plate..
@@aMAYSingLife i got a good deal on a goosegear plate system but the premade screw holes did not aligned to the iceco slide so i need to make a new hole. im using goalzero yeti 400 as my backup and it work okay planning to get a bigger one im using the 110v plug because the cigarette lighter plug keeps on popping out
@@m1gz883 if i had it to do over again I would buy the Jackery 1500 due to the difference in speed of the charger and of course the extra 500. I had used goalzero for years and still do on the motorcycle (more compact) but so far i'm happy with the jackery. i do wish the handle folded down but other than that its good. i had some GZ stuff fail on me and didn't seem as though the power lasted as long as it should comparatively speaking. I also use the Anker 28000 PD brick for charging different things around the camp including all my camera gear so I don't have to have them plugged into the jackery that generally remains in the jeep. One of my Oregon videos shows how I eliminated the issue with the cig plug popping out. I used those rubber coated wire things you can get at REI to wrap around the plug to secure it.. worked great. The 110 is going to pull a lot of power having to convert to 110 then back to dc.. i'd look to secure it similar to how i did to save that conversion loss if it were me. good luck with your build!