Brilliant series. I just binged watched them all. I thought a few months ago about doing a nearly identical project, so thanks for showing the way. Subbed.
I love details, yet I’ll watch whatever you have the time and energy to share. Clearly you have a lot of knowledge, experience and skills that I, and certainly many others crave and would enjoy watching. 👍👍😎👍👍
The important thing about making a crankpin is to ensure that the case depth is deep enough. If too thin after grinding, say 0.005" to 0.015", the case will crack under pin flexure, with obvious results. 0.06" to 0.080" being a good case depth, the larger figure for larger engines with heavier masses. Sub-zero heat treatment after hardening and tempering will ensure that retained austenite (which reduces hardness values) is kept to a minimum. Retained austenite won't be a problem with EN32, but certainly will be with EN36.
The pin was 23.4mm prior to hardening and the people doing it reckoned the depth would be 1.5mm + . They then ground it down to 23.10 for me. So hopefully there’s still heaps of meat there, only time will tell.
Add text description when describing settings and parts. Eg early videos had speeds and feeds for mill - very usefull. In this video a description or link to inserts you are using. Add to usefulness of understanding your choices. Binging the series ❤
Love this series!, I would prefer a 20ish min videos with more detail explanations, just my 2c. many many thanks for sharing, its quite amazing that you are making this D:
When the pin finally comes back from the people hardening and grinding it I will do an in-depth video of assembling the crankshaft and Pressing on the bearings.
Did u know about bajaj 200ns/rs (rouser) tjey make solid cranksaft but single cilynder. Can u convert this solid cranksaft to be pin, used pin cranksaft other motorcycle. Honda or yamaha actualy. But stil used plate metal bearing conrod originaly. 😊😊😊
Interesting, the rc390 I just rebuilt has a solid crankshaft. This meant I needed an entire replacement crank and rod as it had run the big end bearing. As for converting it to a pin. I don’t see why you would bother unless it was to cut costs when rebuilding and there would be a lot of hassle trying to accurately bore both holes for the pin to be a good press fit. But if you’ve got the equipment and lots of time on your hands, why not?
@@OddsandEndsMachining i need to separate this solid pin. Because this motorbike not available again on my country. & price this part so much expensive. When i can convert or how to convert may i can reduse we money to repair, because next time we just replace pin big end & metal bearing not buy solid cranksaft again😁. Because so many user this motorbike on my country. This bike its powerfull wuth cheap price. May u can make one video how to do this
@@heidhouarbi I don't really have time to make that video, but you could saw the crank in half through the pin. you would then need to hold it in a 4 jaw chuck on a lathe. Then you would align the chuck to the big end pin with a dial indicator. All you would have to do is bore it for the new pin to be a press fit. . . You would also have to align the oil galleries so oil could flow into the big end pin.
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RotarySMP showed me the way - subbed.
Same here 👍😀
10-15 minute videos are good for general/multi updates, but if there's a focus topic then up to 25 would be a nice point
I’ll keep that in mind when I assemble the crank.
Longer more detailed videos! You're a rising star ✨
15 to 20 minute videos is about my limit. Keep the content coming, I love your channel!
Got sent here from RotarySMP, awesome channel. I've got an old Kawasaki 2 stroke and am a beginner home machinist, so this is really inspiring for me.
Brilliant series. I just binged watched them all. I thought a few months ago about doing a nearly identical project, so thanks for showing the way.
Subbed.
Thanks for the link. Without it I would probably missed out on yet another great channel.
Same
I love details, yet I’ll watch whatever you have the time and energy to share. Clearly you have a lot of knowledge, experience and skills that I, and certainly many others crave and would enjoy watching. 👍👍😎👍👍
Make them as long as you like.
This is brilliant. 👍
The important thing about making a crankpin is to ensure that the case depth is deep enough. If too thin after grinding, say 0.005" to 0.015", the case will crack under pin flexure, with obvious results. 0.06" to 0.080" being a good case depth, the larger figure for larger engines with heavier masses. Sub-zero heat treatment after hardening and tempering will ensure that retained austenite (which reduces hardness values) is kept to a minimum. Retained austenite won't be a problem with EN32, but certainly will be with EN36.
The pin was 23.4mm prior to hardening and the people doing it reckoned the depth would be 1.5mm + . They then ground it down to 23.10 for me. So hopefully there’s still heaps of meat there, only time will tell.
Lucky I am a betting person. That live centre looks to be of Chinese origin. 🧐😎
I’d say cost was the only constraint when it was being designed and manufactured. . I am also not complaining haha.
Longer videos! 👍😀
Nice work.creative idea!
Add text description when describing settings and parts. Eg early videos had speeds and feeds for mill - very usefull. In this video a description or link to inserts you are using. Add to usefulness of understanding your choices. Binging the series ❤
I’m definitely going to make more of an effort to add text on screen showing what things are and explaining why I do things in a certain way.
Love this series!, I would prefer a 20ish min videos with more detail explanations, just my 2c. many many thanks for sharing, its quite amazing that you are making this D:
When the pin finally comes back from the people hardening and grinding it I will do an in-depth video of assembling the crankshaft and Pressing on the bearings.
Longer videos would be nice.
Best Greetings from the BS racing team
Definitely longer videos and, no music please.
I propose you.make powerful 4stroke petrol engine .from handmade .if you can ..Thanks.
Did u know about bajaj 200ns/rs (rouser) tjey make solid cranksaft but single cilynder. Can u convert this solid cranksaft to be pin, used pin cranksaft other motorcycle. Honda or yamaha actualy. But stil used plate metal bearing conrod originaly. 😊😊😊
Interesting, the rc390 I just rebuilt has a solid crankshaft. This meant I needed an entire replacement crank and rod as it had run the big end bearing.
As for converting it to a pin. I don’t see why you would bother unless it was to cut costs when rebuilding and there would be a lot of hassle trying to accurately bore both holes for the pin to be a good press fit. But if you’ve got the equipment and lots of time on your hands, why not?
@@OddsandEndsMachining i need to separate this solid pin. Because this motorbike not available again on my country. & price this part so much expensive. When i can convert or how to convert may i can reduse we money to repair, because next time we just replace pin big end & metal bearing not buy solid cranksaft again😁. Because so many user this motorbike on my country. This bike its powerfull wuth cheap price. May u can make one video how to do this
Btw its like rc390 because its build on india too.. & the modeling macine almost same. & the same crankcaft 😂
@@heidhouarbi I don't really have time to make that video, but you could saw the crank in half through the pin. you would then need to hold it in a 4 jaw chuck on a lathe. Then you would align the chuck to the big end pin with a dial indicator. All you would have to do is bore it for the new pin to be a press fit. . .
You would also have to align the oil galleries so oil could flow into the big end pin.
@@OddsandEndsMachining yes. I have plan like this. I just need some video to make me more confident to do this project 😁
Long c form content