Shimano GRX 600 vs GRX 800 and why I am putting 4iiii power meter on the RX810
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- While I am putting 2x GRX 600 level cranks of the Specialized Diverges, and putting 4iii power on the GRX810, I decided to to a comparison and get a second GRX810 for project Negroni... yep, that should stir things up a bit... but a negroni does have 3 bad*** ingredients so.... the results are surprising... all the way to the end where I see the 40T rings on the Shimano GRX cranks appear to be different???
Very helpful. I was specifically looking for a visual comparison of the two. Thank you.
Thanks, glad it was helpful!
...' a much nicer pulley outy bit' cracked me up! Nice one 😀
So if I calculated right Grx 600 crank with R7000 stages left crank weigh only about 20g more than a 810 crankset. Most of the weight saving is in the left crank. So if you're going with left side power meter you can get the cheaper 600.
@@markusseppala6547 if you are getting a replacement arm I suppose, not sure how much left / right calibration maybe affected???
Using just left sided powermeter right side doesn't affect it.
95 grams. I reckon I'll take the RX600. Won't come unbonded and snap like the others. Plus the GRX logo will come off with a little acetone for a murdered out look
yep, I did that de-logo with some older shimano stuff... noice
I think I'll stick with the cheaper cast one. Shimano's premium hollow stuff is notorious for delaminating.
yes that maybe a wise option. I have seen some of those scary pics - but happy to say in decades of abusing slx to xtr, 105 to dura ace - its never happened to me!
why they don't make grx 800 in 165mm, i run fenders and 165 is a must for less toe overlap
its a shame they do not, I suspect its poor sales, but a lot of good comes from smaller cranks for many, especially when upping the amount of training, but it does also help with things like toe overlap as well as you point out!
I got a question I wonder if GRX 810 back and front derailleur and GRX 600 crank set is compitilbe with 52-36 gear
Hey guys, can you advise if it's worth paying extra for a carbon frame? I'm considering 3 bicycles: Merida SILEX 700, Merida SILEX 4000, and Cannondale TOPSTONE 2.
The Merida SILEX 4000 has a carbon frame, but the equipment is almost the same as the Cannondale, and the price is significantly higher. On the other hand, the Merida SILEX 700 has better components, but the frame is still steel.
i got the Merida Silex 4000 - its just amazing. I would highly recommend getting the Carbon over Aluminum - it help absorbing a lot of the bumps while riding on gravel roads, the bike feels nimble to control and the cable runs internal all the way to the rear derailleur along the chain stay . My only gripe with it is that it comes with 2x10 setup, and with a 46/30 crank I usually ride on the higher gears ( 8,9,10th gear) and very often spin out. This eventually cos more wear and tear of those rings as compared to the middle rings. I have now upgraded the crank to GRX 810 and planning upgrades to make it a 2x11 setup.
Is it possible to put a 4iiii powermeter on the rx600 crank? Is it also possible to put a rx800 42t chainring on a rx600 crankset?
I put one on my rx800 and on the drive side (send to factory) but afaik not the rx600 as its design (U section) does not favour strain gaugues like the hollowtech rx800 from what I understand. The limit on the size of chainring is a) the BCD (think 50 is max on 110 bcd, 104 BCD maybe lower) but b) your frame, as many frames will rub on a too large a chainring, but of it will fit on your set-up there should be no reason the rx800 should not fit on the rx600, assuming the same BCD version (and bolts) is used, I don't think Shimano do it, but some manufacturers have both 4 and 5 bolt versions of same crankset!
Are the 600 & 800 cranks interchangeable? I have the 1x 800 in 172.5, but want to use the 165 cranks from the 1x 600 whilst using the same 36t wolf tooth chainring from the 800.
the 1x 600 that was not stolen and the other 2x 800 I have are exactly the same spindle length so yes
I stumbled across this video after discovering that my 1x grx 600 crankset had two threaded holes in the back instead of the one I would have expected. Glad to see that it's supposed to be like that and my bike wasn't assembled using the wrong crank. Does this mean there's no difference between the 1x and 2x versions? In theory could you put the two chainrings onto this crankset and run it as 2x? (with the other necessary components of course)
I have not experience with the 2x GRX, and its a long time since I had mountain cranks and and road never but generally you need longer bolts and the 2x assembly fits, on both, with 2x setting the bigger cog further out and the smaller one further in, but I may stand corrected, as the better way is to have different spiders with different offsets... a quick google search did not show me any conclusive results, but hopefully the comments will provide!
so I have just noticed this when shooting the macro stuff for the 4iiii fitment... no prizes for observation for me! yes it seems there is a single variant... it had been a while since I had Shimano cranks in my defence (I usually swapped out the crank even when I got a full groupset)
This is a great video. I am looking to buy a GIANT REVOLT and the difference in money besides the wheels which I can change in the future are the GRX cranksets and the shifters......
Hello. Thanks for the video! Please, if i got it correctly, buying 800 left crank with power meter, should work with 600 right crank ...right? Thanks!
I suppose that if you bought the side that is only available with power and put it on the rest of the 600 series that is not it *should* work at least physically- the only caveats would be if it uses calculations for the other crank (which I don’t think it does) or if the weight imbalance does something weird but that is what I suppose calibration is for. Let me know if you do it! I don’t have a spare are to test as mine is on the drive side.
@@ChristianBorrman ah. good point with maybe weight calculation. But i think generally, it should not be that "smart" and diff is minimum. I was more worried about diameter of the crank end, lengh of the "tube" or so. (i am not native english sorry). Or the end "teeths" if it will be same to install. Thanks a lot again!
@@mochno1 It just so happens I have a 600 and 800 with me and am removing the latter regularly to fix a new creak lol. with try in next few days and let you know
any significant difference (performance and other) btween the 810 and the 600 shifters?
I have not used that specific combo, however: shimano do use the same casting for various models, just using different materials that can make a difference to weight and feel. from what I can see this is the only difference between 810 and 600 shifters, as neither have the di2 level servowave.. one thing you may find is that 810 has a carbon lever and 600 alloy... which makes a bit of a difference in the cold... but I would not call it "performance" difference! hope this helps
FYI 810 shifters have a different design (not the shape) of the rubber hoods than the 600. And the 810 shifters have a freestroke adjustment for the hydrolique brake that the 600 does'nt have.
@@fruissy Thanks for this, yes the rubber of the hoods of Claris / Tiagra / Sora are different as well, but only noticeable when paying quite a bit of attention, but are easily swapped out. Apart from that do they look the same from outside?
Can anyone tell me what BCD of RX810-1 ???
the 1x is 110BCD 4 bolt, here is an example from a shop that has E V E R Y T H I N G shimano... its where I get pedal and derailleur replacement parts that confirms this: www.sjscycles.co.uk/chainrings/shimano-grx-fcrx8101-110mm-bcd-4-arm-single-chainring-42t/
I'm sorry mate, but those videos consisting of a guy just talking and doing nothing but unpacking and weighing are completely useless.
Quality content = test on the terrain. Explain the technical differences. (and don't tell me "read the characteristics or know what you buy", as all you are showing here is in the characteristics on their website already, and the existence of such a video is literally to inform people about what they're about to buy)
Test the material. Offer a prenium expertise.
Here, you're just weighing components. The weight is known already, and the slight discrepancies between what they announce & reality are insignificant (sorry guys but the 20g of discrepancy between theoretical weight and actual factory weight over a whole group won't make any difference to your comfort and your performance, it's been tested, you couldn't even feel it).
This video was NOT informative at all.
Thanks for your feedback, however the intro credits clearly say: weights, unboxing & comparison, while showing the boxes on a table, not the outdoors, and nothing in the title either suggests a real world test or anything else you suggest the video should be or could be or wanted it to be. Again, I am sorry the video was not what you wanted, but none of what you mention is not what is written on the tin!
It provided exactly what I needed to know