Dude I'm actually a drummer, and I got into woodworking years as a little kid. Dude I've build and drawn out so many jigs, and none of them have really worked. You jig is perfect. Thanks for sharing. I've actually got a beautiful piece of Birdseye maple that I'm doing a snare out of. Earned my Sub!
Thank you Thank you for these videos. They helped me get into stave drum building. Two snares , one Tom drum and starting a floor Tom next. Once again thank you 👍🥁
Nice job Joseph. I like the nail adjustments. I am thinking about making a base drum and maybe a full kit. I will need to make adjustments to my jig too.
Yeah, I'm getting more and more interested in doing a large scale build--like a 20-inch base and a couple of floor toms. We'll see, though. Right now the expensive part on something like that is the wood. A base drum would eat up a LOT of it. Also, my plan is to move up to 1" threaded rod, rather than the 1/2" I have now. I would need that for sure to do something as heavy and as long as a kick and some toms.
I like all your vids Joseph 👍🏻 You've sparked a fire in me to make my own drums . Making your own jigs etc. you prove it don't take a ton of money to produce nice stuff. TY I'll tag you after I get started 👍🏻 Humble nice guy your are..
I know, right? I am impossibly busy. Unfortunately there is just no opportunity for me to do woodworking right now. It's a shame, but it's not the end of the road. I'll get back to it eventually. Thanks for checking in!
I would highly suggest a set of pillow block bearings to fasten to your shaft supports, And maybe a few right angle braces to prevent the jig from moving with humidity changes. Otherwise, great jig man!
Hey, thanks, Zach! Your comment is very well taken, except for two things: the whole point of this router table and drum-making jig system is to be as cheap as possible--like only using scrap. The table is all scrap, and the maple I used came from cutoffs from a lumber mill in East Central Ohio Amish Country. While I like the idea of pillow block bearings--they look cool, they obviously ride at a nice, precise 90 degrees--that would get in the way of the "auto feed" system I've got, which I'm quite partial to. I could rig up a new auto feed that slides the whole jig system over the router blade, but that gets overly complicated.
Hey man I hear ya, the auto-feed is nice. I don't have pillow blocks on mine (though it would be nice). Instead, I have 4 bearings with 1/2" ID. Two on the uprights, and two on my clamping discs. I scored all 4 for 3 bucks each at my local tractor supply store. I like using scrap to build, but I feel it necessary to construct jigs for longevity, especially if people are paying for the products I'm making. Please keep the videos coming, they're great!
Love your videos. Have you tried making any smaller drums? I was toying with the idea of making a 10" tom. I just haven't seen a router small enough to fit inside.
Thanks! I had a potential commission come through for a full drum set, but it fell through. My plan was to use a Dremel with a 90-degree auxiliary attachment. The commission was going to include eight and 10 inch toms.
Hey Joseph, I have a quick question for you and your snare build/woodworking ability. I just started on an ash stave project, 14x8 in the end. I glued it last night, and then realized this morning that before gluing I did not check the grain orientation. When I took woodshop in highschool my teacher said if the grain hadn't gone the opposing way every other board it would warp, and I would see that after some people forgot that rule. My stave shell has 30 ash blocks, do you think that I ruined the shell by not correcting the grain orientation for every board?
Well, first, I'm not an expert. :P Second, I don't alternate grain orientation, and I haven't had a problem. I've had two drum shells warp on me, but for both of them it was clear that the problem was insufficiently cured wood. I have some theories on why warpage shouldn't be a problem on drums (mostly related to the fact that they're circular rather than flat, like a furniture panel), but, again, I'm no an expert. I don't think this exactly answers your question, though maybe it's reassuring that I haven't had a problem. I wouldn't be concerned about having ruined your shell. Ash is so dang hard in the first place, that the strength of the shell (circular strength, so to speak), should prevent any problems, as long as the wood is thoroughly cured. If there's anyone who reads this comment later who can shed better light on the question than me, I welcome it, and would love to hear it!
Joseph Center thanks a lot that does help me not have to worry about it in the future. I love your videos, and how you actually talk through them with good information, unlike some other videos out there that I've seen that are always mute. Thanks again I'll be on the look out for more of your videos in the future
Nothing, and it was worth every penny! :P Sorry. My dad gave it to me. It's been around since long before I was born. I am very, very eager to get a new one, but I'm just not there yet.
Yeah, it's hard to tell, at least when they're used. Mine doesn't do a very good job, but if I'm very careful, I can get the straight and flat/clean cuts I need.
@@JosephCenterI heared that most of the cheaper table saws have problems with slightly loose blades. So when you're out for a 9° angle, you end up with something between 7° and 10°. Anyway, thank you very much for your information! It's not usual that uploaders answer that fast (if they do) :)
@@stkk7186 The built in angle gauge being off be a few degrees is not a problem, because you should always be measuring your angle with a separate angle gauge off the surface of the saw against the blade itself. Never trust the factory angle gauges built into the saw. The real problem is that the arbors and not always perfectly flat and so the blade might wobble. That's what mine does. To account for this, I measure my angle from where the location of the wobble is exactly correct.
@@JosephCenter today I went to my local carpenter. He cut my staves, but sadly the angles are not matching up 100% . And that table saw looked top notch. Now I have to think about a solution. What do you do if your staves are not fitting correctly?
Dude I'm actually a drummer, and I got into woodworking years as a little kid. Dude I've build and drawn out so many jigs, and none of them have really worked. You jig is perfect. Thanks for sharing. I've actually got a beautiful piece of Birdseye maple that I'm doing a snare out of. Earned my Sub!
Thank you Thank you for these videos. They helped me get into stave drum building. Two snares , one Tom drum and starting a floor Tom next. Once again thank you 👍🥁
Fantastic!
Nice job Joseph. I like the nail adjustments. I am thinking about making a base drum and maybe a full kit. I will need to make adjustments to my jig too.
Yeah, I'm getting more and more interested in doing a large scale build--like a 20-inch base and a couple of floor toms. We'll see, though. Right now the expensive part on something like that is the wood. A base drum would eat up a LOT of it.
Also, my plan is to move up to 1" threaded rod, rather than the 1/2" I have now. I would need that for sure to do something as heavy and as long as a kick and some toms.
I like all your vids Joseph 👍🏻 You've sparked a fire in me to make my own drums . Making your own jigs etc. you prove it don't take a ton of money to produce nice stuff. TY I'll tag you after I get started 👍🏻 Humble nice guy your are..
Hey, thanks, Rob! Nice words. :) Good luck with your drum. I'd love to see how it turns out.
I can’t believe this was 6 years ago. Seems like yesterday. How are things?
I know, right? I am impossibly busy. Unfortunately there is just no opportunity for me to do woodworking right now. It's a shame, but it's not the end of the road. I'll get back to it eventually. Thanks for checking in!
I would highly suggest a set of pillow block bearings to fasten to your shaft supports, And maybe a few right angle braces to prevent the jig from moving with humidity changes. Otherwise, great jig man!
Hey, thanks, Zach! Your comment is very well taken, except for two things: the whole point of this router table and drum-making jig system is to be as cheap as possible--like only using scrap. The table is all scrap, and the maple I used came from cutoffs from a lumber mill in East Central Ohio Amish Country. While I like the idea of pillow block bearings--they look cool, they obviously ride at a nice, precise 90 degrees--that would get in the way of the "auto feed" system I've got, which I'm quite partial to. I could rig up a new auto feed that slides the whole jig system over the router blade, but that gets overly complicated.
Hey man I hear ya, the auto-feed is nice. I don't have pillow blocks on mine (though it would be nice). Instead, I have 4 bearings with 1/2" ID. Two on the uprights, and two on my clamping discs. I scored all 4 for 3 bucks each at my local tractor supply store. I like using scrap to build, but I feel it necessary to construct jigs for longevity, especially if people are paying for the products I'm making. Please keep the videos coming, they're great!
Love your videos.
Have you tried making any smaller drums?
I was toying with the idea of making a 10" tom. I just haven't seen a router small enough to fit inside.
Thanks! I had a potential commission come through for a full drum set, but it fell through. My plan was to use a Dremel with a 90-degree auxiliary attachment. The commission was going to include eight and 10 inch toms.
@@JosephCenter i was looking at an angle grinder. Wasn't sure if it would work. Ill have to start looking at a dremel
What measurements would you use on the jig if you wanted to make a 32" drum rim?
The end supports would just have to go up to a little over 16 inches.
@@JosephCenter thank you for the reply. I make native American drums, and I love your drum Jigs.
That's super cool! I've wanted to try my hand at some of those (just gotta find the time...). Good luck!
Hey Joseph, I have a quick question for you and your snare build/woodworking ability. I just started on an ash stave project, 14x8 in the end. I glued it last night, and then realized this morning that before gluing I did not check the grain orientation. When I took woodshop in highschool my teacher said if the grain hadn't gone the opposing way every other board it would warp, and I would see that after some people forgot that rule. My stave shell has 30 ash blocks, do you think that I ruined the shell by not correcting the grain orientation for every board?
Well, first, I'm not an expert. :P Second, I don't alternate grain orientation, and I haven't had a problem. I've had two drum shells warp on me, but for both of them it was clear that the problem was insufficiently cured wood. I have some theories on why warpage shouldn't be a problem on drums (mostly related to the fact that they're circular rather than flat, like a furniture panel), but, again, I'm no an expert. I don't think this exactly answers your question, though maybe it's reassuring that I haven't had a problem. I wouldn't be concerned about having ruined your shell. Ash is so dang hard in the first place, that the strength of the shell (circular strength, so to speak), should prevent any problems, as long as the wood is thoroughly cured.
If there's anyone who reads this comment later who can shed better light on the question than me, I welcome it, and would love to hear it!
Joseph Center thanks a lot that does help me not have to worry about it in the future. I love your videos, and how you actually talk through them with good information, unlike some other videos out there that I've seen that are always mute. Thanks again I'll be on the look out for more of your videos in the future
Haha! Thanks, Nick! I'm hoping to get out a pair of videos this weekend, so keep your eye out. :)
What angle would you use for a 32" Stave drum?, if you don't mind.
Regardless of the diameter, the angle of each stave cut depends on the number of staves.
@@JosephCenter 45 staves
It looks like you'll need a 4 degree bevel on each side of each stave (here's the math: 360 degrees x .5 divided by (number of staves)).
@@JosephCenter Thank You for your help. I'll give it a shot soon.
How much did you pay for your table saw?
Nothing, and it was worth every penny! :P Sorry. My dad gave it to me. It's been around since long before I was born. I am very, very eager to get a new one, but I'm just not there yet.
Yeah, it's hard to tell, at least when they're used. Mine doesn't do a very good job, but if I'm very careful, I can get the straight and flat/clean cuts I need.
@@JosephCenterI heared that most of the cheaper table saws have problems with slightly loose blades. So when you're out for a 9° angle, you end up with something between 7° and 10°. Anyway, thank you very much for your information! It's not usual that uploaders answer that fast (if they do) :)
@@stkk7186 The built in angle gauge being off be a few degrees is not a problem, because you should always be measuring your angle with a separate angle gauge off the surface of the saw against the blade itself. Never trust the factory angle gauges built into the saw. The real problem is that the arbors and not always perfectly flat and so the blade might wobble. That's what mine does. To account for this, I measure my angle from where the location of the wobble is exactly correct.
@@JosephCenter today I went to my local carpenter. He cut my staves, but sadly the angles are not matching up 100% . And that table saw looked top notch. Now I have to think about a solution. What do you do if your staves are not fitting correctly?
does not exist Drum Building -- OUTSIDE ROUNDING JIG: Router Table, Phase 3 ??
Found it! lol