@@TinyIndustrial I have a couple of different tools. One is a nyalox brush that goes on the end of a drill: amzn.to/2TaNzXt And then I just added this Restorer with nylon brushes to the arsenal! amzn.to/3oNUZMd Cheers!
@@BuildDadBuild Thanks for sending those links. I might ahve to upgrade to those. I like your channel as well. Always nice to see someone doing it right!
I want to add that you can preserve post for in ground use( I light a fire and lay them down rolling and moving them to char the length I need. Also to completely seal the wood the edges and end must be charred completely as well.
Thank you for this video, this process looks a bit simpler than I initially expected. At first I was wondering how to get the lighter, multicolored burn that I prefer, but then I could see how in your video you control the level of burn quite easily for any level that you like. The results look beautiful!
I always thought this was a brilliant technique. I think it's nicer than stain. Great video! I wish you showed rubbing on a coat of linseed oil to see how it looks.
Making raised beds, found out about the technique on another channel and thought that was a great way to make the boards last much longer. Your video was the most clear and concise that I can find. Thank you
@@yardman323177 Excellent thing to build. Good luck with it and enjoy the process. Hope the raised beds turn out great. Thanks for the feedback as well. Always appreciated.
Definitely. Yes, and like I indicate in the video, there is really no 'wrong' way to do it. The blow torch can be a bit intimidating at first, but it's actually quite fun and zen.
Like your video. I’m thinking about doing this to my window trim boards on a 1925 craftsman house. I think it would be a cool accent. I already have the flame thrower.
Sure. Use it on pretty much anything...except pressure treated wood. Any kind of unprocessed or unprotected wood will do fine with this though. Especially good for anemic woods like pine. Really elevates that to something way nicer to look at.
I love the big weed burner torches for speed of burn. Currently, I’m burning lumber with the small propane torches… takes longer, but then again you can be more precise, if precision is called for… like in surface burning where you are just doing a really light burn. My project is a loft bed with 2x6s and 2x4s. I’m doing a significant burn on the 2x6s that create the actual mattress (futon) frame, then sanding it down to reveal the texture of the 3 dimensional surface. I follow that up with an espresso colored minwax stain. (Which somewhat hides the burn a bit, but not completely) The 2x4 legs will likely just get a light surface burn using my weed torch… just for a bit of a black accent. (Also, I think shou Sugi ban would be a nice technique to use with my traditional Japanese futon… that’s placed not so traditionally on a loft bed frame, about 48” off the ground.)
That sounds great. I find that if I used a smaller torch it leads to streaking from the narrow hot spot, which doesn't look good. I find that the weed torch does well for light burns too. I just throttle back a lot and keep the torch at a distance. Takes a bit of finesse, but it's definitely workable.
Question... does the wood needs to be super dry before doing this? We have old pallets we want to use for our raised garden beds and want them to last longer by using this technique. And shouldn't you do both sides, like with paint to prevent it from curling up on the burned side?
Pallet wood will work great with this. Scorch all exposed surfaces. I don't think that you will have too much curling or buckling. Have you tried it yet? Did it work?
HI there. Not sure what you mean by 'bark side'. There is not bark on any of these planks. I do recommend that you burn all sides to prevent warping of the wood though.
Thank you so much for the demo and info provided here- it was very helpful. I do have a couple of questions on this topic so here they are - given that this method was meant to have an end result of the wood very durable - pest resistant - fire resistant- water resistant (have I left anything out?) - is there someway to establish when the burning process is enough? Also, any recommendations on minimum & maximum thickness of wood to be used?
Thanks for watching! Yes, it adds to the life of the wood by protecting it. What I show in the video I would argue is kind of the middle ground between lightly scorched and heavily scorched. Go for that kind of look (or darker) to protect the wood. I wouldn't do it to wood thinner than a 1/2" (like pine paneling). If the wood is too thin, the burning process will likely warp it and make it harder to use. Thicker wood is less prone to warping from the heat being applied. Hope that helps. What project do you have in mind for this process?
I mean, sure, you can. I'm just not convinced that it would be your best option in that scenario. This is not some miracle treatment to prevent wood from decaying faster. It does help considerably though. Some petro-chemical roof covering would likely do a better job for a roof fix.
Hi. Sure, you can do that. It will be a bit more labor intensive but will work fine. If you are torching a lot of stuff you likely want to go bigger. Small torch is fine for smaller amounts of surface area. Good way to try out different techniques and levels of burn too. Let me know how it works out and glad the video was helpful.
Yes! That is where the term comes from. Japanese cedar. Now cedar is already pretty good at fending off the elements. Burning just adds another dimension and tone to the wood. What's your project?
Good project. Not only will it look good, but it will also be beneficial for the longevity of the wood. Less chemicals than pressure treated too (...no chemicals in fact).
Oh no...definitely not. If you put the oil on first, you would just wind up burning it off and likely setting the full board on fire as a byproduct. Oiling is an optional step after the burning part.
This method is an alternative to pressure treated wood. It may not last as long as pressure treated but 1) it looks better 2) it's better for the environment. Really comes down to implementation, where you are and what the exposure is to the elements.
Awesome!! Where do you buy the flamethrower attachment ? How much $? How much propane is used in the process? Like a 20gal tank per 10x20' area? Or ???
You can get one here: amzn.to/3pRuDdA Something like that or similar will work best. You can scorch a lot of wood on one 20lb tank of propane. Not sure on how much 'coverage' you would get overall. Depends on how much of a scorch you want to put on the wood. Less scorch...more coverage. Results will vary. Try it out. It's a really gratifying process.
You can leave it sanded. I might wipe it down a few more times to remove as much of the burnt wood dust as possible. Also, even if you were to oil it, that dries up after a while and returns to the state that you like. What project are you looking to tackle?
It does not. I tend to usually brush though. I recently did some raised bed planters for the backyard and didn't brush them. It was the first time that I skipped that step. I was very happy with the result. Simply burned and then oiled the wood...done.
For long term preservation outside, should the char or ash be left on and tung oil applied? I am making trellises for outdoor use- veggie supports. Thank you!
I think that the more char you can keep on the there, the better. I did some raised beds and left all the char on and then applied the oil. We'll see how long they last, but I think that it's a good approach.
Burn both sides...it minimizes cupping. The cupping and bending is mostly caused by heat being applied unevenly to a piece of wood. What project are you considering this for?
Initial maybe a bit. You can just wipe it down again after the oil is applied. You quickly will get to a point where there is no residue that comes off. Easily avoidable issue. I wouldn't worry about it. What's the implementation you are looking to do?
@@TinyIndustrial thanks! I was thinking to do it on our siding (part of it) or inside on the trust. Sorry I am French and not sure if trust is the right word.
LPG in terms of common use is the same thing as LPG. In the US we simply refer to it as propane. There may be a distinction in terms of chemical makeup, but in the vernacular it's the same thing for most folks. Someone out there please correct me if that's way off base.
Good question. If the bristles are on the softer side, they will inherently just remove the loose stuff and not the lower down coloration. In other words, as you brush there comes a point of diminishing returns since the bristles will not remove the harder material below the exterior burn. Does that make sense?
No sanding prior to burn. In fact if you have a really rough hewn surface, burning and sanding will actually make the surface really smooth since all the rough wood fibers that stick up from the board will be burned off. It actually SAVES you from having to sand. Win Win.
I would like to do this to the deck posts. My wife is worried that the charred wood would give off the burnt charcoal on clothing. You mentioned sealing it with linseed oil. Did you apply it like a finish? We used to put it on the wood of our hay wagons to seal and protect the wood years (many) ago. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Jim. You can definitely do that. Once it’s burnt sanded and oiled (wipe off excess), there is minimal chance of it rubbing off on anything. So only at the very beginning might there be a slight risk. Over time…none. The burnt doors that I make for the tiny houses I make do not rub off on anything. You have my approval to move forward with this project! :)
I would still use the same oil. Depending on conditions, you may need to refresh the coat of oil from time to time. I would definitely not encourage you to use pressure treated for this methodology. Too many chemicals already in the pressure treated. This is a preservation technique for NON-pressure treated wood.
I’m building an Adirondack chair and have it all cut and pre drilled and sanded down, would you recommend I burn all the wood first and then put together or put together then burn?
Not really. Really stiff bristles will not work, nor will ones that are too soft. Anything in that mid-range of bristle stiffness seems to work the best. Different brushes may yield different effects as well. Experiment with what you have and purchase something different only if what you have isn't achieving the result you want.
So would this be effective for outdoor furniture like Adirondack chairs? Does the linseed oil prevent the ash from getting on you or would you still need to seal it?
You could do it either way you describe. Using this process will definitely extend it's outdoor life (also depends on the wood you use). Burning, buffing and sealing will get you the look that this process achieves and subsequently sealing it would likely yield even more longevity. Hard to get the boards clean and dust/lint free for sealing after you do the burn though... It's a trade off.
Initially, yes, you will have it stain cloth and clothes if it remains untreated. If you clean it enough though you will get rid of all the loose carbon on the surface and just be left with the burnt wood part. There is no particular need to treat it if you don't want to.
You could use sandpaper, but it likely will cake up and clog the paper if you know what I mean. Brush will yield better results at least initially. You could do a second pass with sandpaper. That would work better in that order.
I'd say that's not advisable without first stripping off whatever coating, paint or similar is on the wood to begin with. What are you looking to apply this technique to?
@@TinyIndustrial sorry when I said finished I meant completed project... I made a memorial for my passed son. I only see people doing this to single boards. I have not put any strain or other finish on it yet.
@@kahfigitar You mean using this technique on treated/sealed wood? That wouldn't work. You need to start with untreated wood. If you. If you had varnished or treated wood, you would need to strip that down to an untreated state before employing this technique.
That falls under the warning of do it safely and with a fire extinguisher next to you. Planks should be loose and off the ground or any flammable material as shown in the video. I presume you are kidding? Stay safe out there folks and proceed at your own risk.
Well that sounds like an idea for another video! Thanks for the comment. It really pops after the oil is applied. The wood is really protected at that stage as well from the elements.
Perhaps, but the hope is that people watch the whole video before torching things and also that a reasonable amount of common sense is brought to a project like this. Kind of like buckling your seat belt and adjusting your mirrors is not really a required mention every time someone does a car review.
Yes, that has been indicated to me before. Reality is that a lot of people search the Shou Sugi Ban term and it's good when my videos are found by the folks looking for them. Thanks for the comment either way.
Thanks. I can add that term in on the tags. There is not as much search traffic for that term and therefore it's a catch 22. Putting out a video that no one can find is not a good RUclips strategy in general. :)
Not sure why you would want to. Would you be burning the would just to seal it in a natural way? A lot of paints are pretty effective at that as well. I would say this technique is too much effort to just simply paint over it in the end. I wouldn't recommend it. You could sand and varnish it. That at least wouldn't cover up the beautiful wood. :) Let me know if I didn't understand your question fully.
@@TinyIndustrial yes , sealing naturally before primer, paint or stain. We could just prime and paint ? The 2x12 joists, framing and 6x6 posts are outside. We are in the north west near Seattle.
@@mikelavallee7582 My gut tells me that burning the wood AND then painting over it won't end well. You might discolor the paint with remaining dark remnants of the burn process (especially with lighter color paint. I would advise against it. Let me know if you find something definitive on RUclips or elsewhere regarding your plan.
I’m pretty sure the charred material is supposed to stay on the surface to deter insects-and I’m also pretty sure this technique is supposed to use coal tar for the final seal…
I suppose that there is an official and unofficial way of doing this. Even when you scrape off some of the burnt material, you still have a char on what's left behind. That is still a seal for the wood and still a deterrent for critters. Could it be more of a seal and more of a deterrent if one didn't do that...perhaps. Final seal is optional as far as I'm concerned. It comes down to the look. you like and if you want to additional seal the wood in it's burnt state for some other reason (i.e. a gloss clearcoat finish).
Everyone unintentionally misstates this technique. Most really mean to imply a style, or a look, when the true meaning is much more specific in technique, wood choice, and purpose.
Yes, true. But people also search certain terms that they associate with the technique and hence as a creator on RUclips it behooves me to have people find my content more than getting the terminology exactly right :)
Great video! I've now graduated to nylon brushes powered by power tools! Saves sooooo much time.
Cheers
Thanks! That sounds like a great way to do it. What does that look like? A drill with a brush attachment?
@@TinyIndustrial I have a couple of different tools. One is a nyalox brush that goes on the end of a drill:
amzn.to/2TaNzXt
And then I just added this Restorer with nylon brushes to the arsenal!
amzn.to/3oNUZMd
Cheers!
@@BuildDadBuild Thanks for sending those links. I might ahve to upgrade to those. I like your channel as well. Always nice to see someone doing it right!
I want to add that you can preserve post for in ground use( I light a fire and lay them down rolling and moving them to char the length I need. Also to completely seal the wood the edges and end must be charred completely as well.
Great point. Thanks for adding that!
That is the only way it seals the wood correctly.
Yes, I watch Shawn James use that technique on his channel… it inspired me to build a raised bed garden using scorched lumber to resist rot.
That's correct.
How are those beds working out? Always interested in longevity.
Made it look easy well played!!
Thank you! It actually is pretty easy... :)
Thank you for this video, this process looks a bit simpler than I initially expected. At first I was wondering how to get the lighter, multicolored burn that I prefer, but then I could see how in your video you control the level of burn quite easily for any level that you like. The results look beautiful!
Thanks for the comment! Much appreciated. I'm glad that it helped you understand the technique better. Are you doing a project with this?
I always thought this was a brilliant technique. I think it's nicer than stain. Great video! I wish you showed rubbing on a coat of linseed oil to see how it looks.
Thanks for the comment. Perhaps I'll make another video where I go over some of the various finishing techniques. Would that be helpful to you?
@@TinyIndustrialDo you have any updates?
I would like to see in a few years how that thin finish holds up to traditional expectations & performance with exterior use.
Yes, I'll try to make a followup video on that. Good suggestion. Thanks! Have you tried this technique?
@@TinyIndustrial what’s the update after 3 months?
No. But I am about to.
How did it work out?
How is your wood holding up?
Can't wait to try this!!!
Excellent! What’s the project you have in mind?
Thank you, great video, straight to the point, helpful tips....can't wait to get started....Thank you!
Great! I'm happy that I was able to help you! What''s the project you have in mind?
Making raised beds, found out about the technique on another channel and thought that was a great way to make the boards last much longer. Your video was the most clear and concise that I can find. Thank you
@@yardman323177 Excellent thing to build. Good luck with it and enjoy the process. Hope the raised beds turn out great. Thanks for the feedback as well. Always appreciated.
Awesome! Great video! Thank you for walking us thru it. I subscribed!
Thanks! I appreciate that you liked it.
Thanks, Chris. It's much easier than I thought it would be. This would make a beautiful finish for a tiny house.
Definitely. Yes, and like I indicate in the video, there is really no 'wrong' way to do it. The blow torch can be a bit intimidating at first, but it's actually quite fun and zen.
Very cool finished product!
Thanks! Are you thinking of using this technique on something?
Like your video. I’m thinking about doing this to my window trim boards on a 1925 craftsman house. I think it would be a cool accent. I already have the flame thrower.
Go for it! That sounds like.a great idea. This technique is great for an accent like you are describing. Will you be posting a video on this?
can you do this same technique on rough lumber as well?
Sure. Use it on pretty much anything...except pressure treated wood. Any kind of unprocessed or unprotected wood will do fine with this though. Especially good for anemic woods like pine. Really elevates that to something way nicer to look at.
I love the big weed burner torches for speed of burn.
Currently, I’m burning lumber with the small propane torches… takes longer, but then again you can be more precise, if precision is called for… like in surface burning where you are just doing a really light burn.
My project is a loft bed with 2x6s and 2x4s. I’m doing a significant burn on the 2x6s that create the actual mattress (futon) frame, then sanding it down to reveal the texture of the 3 dimensional surface. I follow that up with an espresso colored minwax stain. (Which somewhat hides the burn a bit, but not completely)
The 2x4 legs will likely just get a light surface burn using my weed torch… just for a bit of a black accent.
(Also, I think shou Sugi ban would be a nice technique to use with my traditional Japanese futon… that’s placed not so traditionally on a loft bed frame, about 48” off the ground.)
That sounds great. I find that if I used a smaller torch it leads to streaking from the narrow hot spot, which doesn't look good. I find that the weed torch does well for light burns too. I just throttle back a lot and keep the torch at a distance. Takes a bit of finesse, but it's definitely workable.
Question... does the wood needs to be super dry before doing this? We have old pallets we want to use for our raised garden beds and want them to last longer by using this technique. And shouldn't you do both sides, like with paint to prevent it from curling up on the burned side?
Pallet wood will work great with this. Scorch all exposed surfaces. I don't think that you will have too much curling or buckling. Have you tried it yet? Did it work?
Excellent job mate 🙌 a question, the bark side is the one burned?
HI there. Not sure what you mean by 'bark side'. There is not bark on any of these planks. I do recommend that you burn all sides to prevent warping of the wood though.
Thank you so much for the demo and info provided here- it was very helpful. I do have a couple of questions on this topic so here they are - given that this method was meant to have an end result of the wood very durable - pest resistant - fire resistant- water resistant (have I left anything out?) - is there someway to establish when the burning process is enough? Also, any recommendations on minimum & maximum thickness of wood to be used?
Thanks for watching! Yes, it adds to the life of the wood by protecting it. What I show in the video I would argue is kind of the middle ground between lightly scorched and heavily scorched. Go for that kind of look (or darker) to protect the wood. I wouldn't do it to wood thinner than a 1/2" (like pine paneling). If the wood is too thin, the burning process will likely warp it and make it harder to use. Thicker wood is less prone to warping from the heat being applied. Hope that helps. What project do you have in mind for this process?
Would you say this would work for a garage roof? I have some pretty tough damage on a garage roof needing repaired ASAP.
I mean, sure, you can. I'm just not convinced that it would be your best option in that scenario. This is not some miracle treatment to prevent wood from decaying faster. It does help considerably though. Some petro-chemical roof covering would likely do a better job for a roof fix.
Hi, Thanks for the vid. Can you use a smaller blowtorch, like the 14oz benzomatics?
Hi. Sure, you can do that. It will be a bit more labor intensive but will work fine. If you are torching a lot of stuff you likely want to go bigger. Small torch is fine for smaller amounts of surface area. Good way to try out different techniques and levels of burn too. Let me know how it works out and glad the video was helpful.
Great thank you.
Glad that it was of use to you. Are you tackling a project that you want to use this technique on?
Is this also beneficial for Cedar wood?
Yes! That is where the term comes from. Japanese cedar. Now cedar is already pretty good at fending off the elements. Burning just adds another dimension and tone to the wood. What's your project?
Thanks! I would be looking to do garden fence posts and/or boxes for raised beds
Good project. Not only will it look good, but it will also be beneficial for the longevity of the wood. Less chemicals than pressure treated too (...no chemicals in fact).
should the oil be put on first?
Oh no...definitely not. If you put the oil on first, you would just wind up burning it off and likely setting the full board on fire as a byproduct. Oiling is an optional step after the burning part.
awesome vid, straight to the point
Thanks for kind words. What are you going to do as your first(?) project with this technique?
About how much surface area do you do with a standard propane tank?
Good question. No idea. Time and effort involved with this process well outstrip cost of propane though for sure.
does that mean that we can use untreated wood with this method to build durable houses?
This method is an alternative to pressure treated wood. It may not last as long as pressure treated but 1) it looks better 2) it's better for the environment. Really comes down to implementation, where you are and what the exposure is to the elements.
Awesome!! Where do you buy the flamethrower attachment ? How much $?
How much propane is used in the process? Like a 20gal tank per 10x20' area? Or ???
You can get one here: amzn.to/3pRuDdA Something like that or similar will work best. You can scorch a lot of wood on one 20lb tank of propane. Not sure on how much 'coverage' you would get overall. Depends on how much of a scorch you want to put on the wood. Less scorch...more coverage. Results will vary. Try it out. It's a really gratifying process.
I am thinking of doing this for siding on our new house. I'm assuming you would need to burn the wood on all sides?
Likely best to do so. Any untreated (hidden) surfaces would be susceptible to premature aging or bug aggression if you failed to do so.
I love the look right after burning and cleaning the wood .It is ok to just leave it like that or I need to oil it or seald it?
You can leave it sanded. I might wipe it down a few more times to remove as much of the burnt wood dust as possible. Also, even if you were to oil it, that dries up after a while and returns to the state that you like. What project are you looking to tackle?
does the wood have to be wire bushed, I am using it forsupport boards for building a deck?
It does not. I tend to usually brush though. I recently did some raised bed planters for the backyard and didn't brush them. It was the first time that I skipped that step. I was very happy with the result. Simply burned and then oiled the wood...done.
For long term preservation outside, should the char or ash be left on and tung oil applied? I am making trellises for outdoor use- veggie supports. Thank you!
I think that the more char you can keep on the there, the better. I did some raised beds and left all the char on and then applied the oil. We'll see how long they last, but I think that it's a good approach.
Very informative, I really appreciate it !!
Thanks Dany. Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
How do you prevent wood cupping from after the burn?
Burn both sides...it minimizes cupping. The cupping and bending is mostly caused by heat being applied unevenly to a piece of wood. What project are you considering this for?
table top@@TinyIndustrial
Perfect for that. Did you seal it with poly or what was your final finish (if any)?
Thanks!
Just a question: does it stain your hands when you touch it?
Initial maybe a bit. You can just wipe it down again after the oil is applied. You quickly will get to a point where there is no residue that comes off. Easily avoidable issue. I wouldn't worry about it. What's the implementation you are looking to do?
@@TinyIndustrial thanks! I was thinking to do it on our siding (part of it) or inside on the trust. Sorry I am French and not sure if trust is the right word.
Excellent. Did it work out for you?
@@TinyIndustrial finally we finally oiled our siding. But we still have more to do so the burned part might be done on accessories. Thanks for asking!
Very awesome. Thanks for the video.
Is propane chemically different (ie: hotter) or better in any way for this, than common LPG?
LPG in terms of common use is the same thing as LPG. In the US we simply refer to it as propane. There may be a distinction in terms of chemical makeup, but in the vernacular it's the same thing for most folks. Someone out there please correct me if that's way off base.
thank you
You're welcome! Hope it was helpful. What are you making with this technique?
How can you tell when to stop with the wire brush? Wont taking too much just erase the burning effort?
Good question. If the bristles are on the softer side, they will inherently just remove the loose stuff and not the lower down coloration. In other words, as you brush there comes a point of diminishing returns since the bristles will not remove the harder material below the exterior burn. Does that make sense?
Is this pine?
Yes, this was pine board being used in this video.
What's the btu on the burner?
Not sure. Something like 20,000?
Do you sand the wood before burning and if yes what grit paper do you recommend.
No sanding prior to burn. In fact if you have a really rough hewn surface, burning and sanding will actually make the surface really smooth since all the rough wood fibers that stick up from the board will be burned off. It actually SAVES you from having to sand. Win Win.
It seems Tung oil is the best for a durable and protective finish.
Yes there are a number of good options.
I would like to do this to the deck posts. My wife is worried that the charred wood would give off the burnt charcoal on clothing. You mentioned sealing it with linseed oil. Did you apply it like a finish? We used to put it on the wood of our hay
wagons to seal and protect the wood years (many) ago. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Jim. You can definitely do that. Once it’s burnt sanded and oiled (wipe off excess), there is minimal chance of it rubbing off on anything. So only at the very beginning might there be a slight risk. Over time…none. The burnt doors that I make for the tiny houses I make do not rub off on anything. You have my approval to move forward with this project! :)
Doing this to a project that’s outside year around would you use a different oil ?
How well would this work out if using pressure treatment lumber ?
I would still use the same oil. Depending on conditions, you may need to refresh the coat of oil from time to time. I would definitely not encourage you to use pressure treated for this methodology. Too many chemicals already in the pressure treated. This is a preservation technique for NON-pressure treated wood.
I’m building an Adirondack chair and have it all cut and pre drilled and sanded down, would you recommend I burn all the wood first and then put together or put together then burn?
I would recommend cutting wood to size; scorching; sanding; oiling and then assembling. Will make easier to do vs. after complete assembly.
This video is sweet like shou sugee
Sweet indeed. Glad you liked it. Doing a project?
@@TinyIndustrialhoping to do compost hutches and raised garden beds. Its a good vid. Thanks.
Cool idea. If at some point the treated wood rots, you can compost that too. :)
Does it matter what type of wire brush used? Ie.. Copper, stainless, composite etc
Not really. Really stiff bristles will not work, nor will ones that are too soft. Anything in that mid-range of bristle stiffness seems to work the best. Different brushes may yield different effects as well. Experiment with what you have and purchase something different only if what you have isn't achieving the result you want.
@@TinyIndustrial awesome thank you
You are very welcome.
So would this be effective for outdoor furniture like Adirondack chairs? Does the linseed oil prevent the ash from getting on you or would you still need to seal it?
You could do it either way you describe. Using this process will definitely extend it's outdoor life (also depends on the wood you use). Burning, buffing and sealing will get you the look that this process achieves and subsequently sealing it would likely yield even more longevity. Hard to get the boards clean and dust/lint free for sealing after you do the burn though... It's a trade off.
Does the burt wood rub off if you don't seal it because I'm thinking about doing this method for a desk
Initially, yes, you will have it stain cloth and clothes if it remains untreated. If you clean it enough though you will get rid of all the loose carbon on the surface and just be left with the burnt wood part. There is no particular need to treat it if you don't want to.
@@TinyIndustrial im thinking about just using some kind of sealer
How did that work out?
It’s important to keep the hose away from the heat. It was right on top of the 🔥
At what point in the video?
Hello. Can you use sand paper instead of steel brush?
You could use sandpaper, but it likely will cake up and clog the paper if you know what I mean. Brush will yield better results at least initially. You could do a second pass with sandpaper. That would work better in that order.
Thank you! Will try that finish on my DIY headboard
@@markvizcarra9594 Post a link to an image of it when you are done. Let me know if you run into any issues. Here to help...
Can you do this to a finished product?
I'd say that's not advisable without first stripping off whatever coating, paint or similar is on the wood to begin with. What are you looking to apply this technique to?
@@TinyIndustrial sorry when I said finished I meant completed project... I made a memorial for my passed son. I only see people doing this to single boards. I have not put any strain or other finish on it yet.
@@TinyIndustrial what if the wood has been sealed? Will it be a problem?
@@kahfigitar You mean using this technique on treated/sealed wood? That wouldn't work. You need to start with untreated wood. If you. If you had varnished or treated wood, you would need to strip that down to an untreated state before employing this technique.
I tried this on my house and it burnt down . Didn’t work on the vinyl siding
Ahhh.... you were trying to get a nice brown hue on your vinyl siding...yeah not recommended application of the technique. :)
How big of a gas-tank do you need for this?
I just use a standard 20lb propane cylinder for this like you would use in a propane BBQ. Can get them anywhere.
@@TinyIndustrial I live in Sweden so I'm not sure where to get them.. but I will look for it. Thank you!
@@powpaow Hmm. yeah. Whatever the equivalent is that you would use in a propane Barbeque would likely be suffiecient.
I built a shed and tried this technique on the exterior,next morning ii was a big pile of smoldering ash,completely burned down.
That falls under the warning of do it safely and with a fire extinguisher next to you. Planks should be loose and off the ground or any flammable material as shown in the video. I presume you are kidding? Stay safe out there folks and proceed at your own risk.
Could a bbq pit burn the same if I passed the wood over the flames?
Hmm. Yes, I suppose you could. May be harder to control the burn, but it's doable I would imagine. What are you looking to make?
@@TinyIndustrial I'm making a quail hutch. I'll put a video on RUclips.
@@TheRainHarvester that sounds great! Please provide a link once its done.
@@TinyIndustrial ok I'll write this video down so I can reply to it later.
Any update on this?
My wife uses this method for her cooking
Might be good with a steak.
It's not Shou Sugi. The correct way of reading the Kanji(焼杉) is Yaki Sugi.
Thanks. Very true. People search for Shou Sugi Ban though and I want the to find my videos.
Could you talk more in your introduction? I really love the wait
Sarcasm? Sometimes I'm chatty...sometimes I'm not. Depends on the day. :)
Why didn’t you show finishing with the oil??
I have done so in several subsequent videos. Please check them out on my channel! Thanks!
Wish I could see the linseed oil applied
Well that sounds like an idea for another video! Thanks for the comment. It really pops after the oil is applied. The wood is really protected at that stage as well from the elements.
Shouldnt the fire extinguisher tip/advice be the very first tip/advice and not at 4:23?
Perhaps, but the hope is that people watch the whole video before torching things and also that a reasonable amount of common sense is brought to a project like this. Kind of like buckling your seat belt and adjusting your mirrors is not really a required mention every time someone does a car review.
Please use yakisugi or yakisugi-ita.
Yes, that has been indicated to me before. Reality is that a lot of people search the Shou Sugi Ban term and it's good when my videos are found by the folks looking for them. Thanks for the comment either way.
"Big...uh, weed killing torch"
Aka.. Tiger torch for roofing
...equally good (and marketed for) killing weeds. :)
腐る事がなく、虫を寄せ付けない。燃えにくい。外観もシックで、落ち着きがあり
自然なものたから人間に優しい昔の人の知恵なんですね。
日本は異常に杉があり、花粉症に苦しむ国民の為にも杉を利用してもらいたい。
Not sure what that means, but thank you for the comment regardless. :)
Why does he keep calling the burnt wood brown?
Because it's brown, no? What color do you think it is?
0:53 it probably tastes like burnt pizza to the bugs
Yes! Very unappealing to critters.
Please call it by it’s proper name. It’s called Yakisugi, not Shou Sugi.
Thanks. I can add that term in on the tags. There is not as much search traffic for that term and therefore it's a catch 22. Putting out a video that no one can find is not a good RUclips strategy in general. :)
Can I prime and paint after ?
Not sure why you would want to. Would you be burning the would just to seal it in a natural way? A lot of paints are pretty effective at that as well. I would say this technique is too much effort to just simply paint over it in the end. I wouldn't recommend it. You could sand and varnish it. That at least wouldn't cover up the beautiful wood. :)
Let me know if I didn't understand your question fully.
@@TinyIndustrial yes , sealing naturally before primer, paint or stain. We could just prime and paint ? The 2x12 joists, framing and 6x6 posts are outside. We are in the north west near Seattle.
@@mikelavallee7582 My gut tells me that burning the wood AND then painting over it won't end well. You might discolor the paint with remaining dark remnants of the burn process (especially with lighter color paint. I would advise against it. Let me know if you find something definitive on RUclips or elsewhere regarding your plan.
I’m pretty sure the charred material is supposed to stay on the surface to deter insects-and I’m also pretty sure this technique is supposed to use coal tar for the final seal…
I suppose that there is an official and unofficial way of doing this. Even when you scrape off some of the burnt material, you still have a char on what's left behind. That is still a seal for the wood and still a deterrent for critters. Could it be more of a seal and more of a deterrent if one didn't do that...perhaps. Final seal is optional as far as I'm concerned. It comes down to the look. you like and if you want to additional seal the wood in it's burnt state for some other reason (i.e. a gloss clearcoat finish).
Everyone unintentionally misstates this technique. Most really mean to imply a style, or a look, when the true meaning is much more specific in technique, wood choice, and purpose.
Yes, true. But people also search certain terms that they associate with the technique and hence as a creator on RUclips it behooves me to have people find my content more than getting the terminology exactly right :)
Just don't say "Sho Sugi Ban" in Japan or they'll look at you like you're crazy. ;)
Yes, and I'm not doing it in the traditional Japanese way either...although the end result is virtually the same.
Zero
The loneliest number of them all.