Jim, Thank you for providing this tutorial video. From watching your video (many times!) & a few others I was able to successfully replace the passenger side CV axle on my 2001 Caravan. On mine I also had to remove the 18mm castle-nut to take the tie-rod end out & then remove the 10mm bolt that holds the ABS sensor in place to get it & its wiring out of the way. I also had a Chilton manual to refer to but very seldom did I use it because the videos are much more instructional.
Great video Jim. I used it to change both sides on my dad's 2010. Your method of changing them is a lot better then the other ones I found on youtube. Keep up the good work.
That's fairly easy. This part will help me pull back the transmission to replace leaky freeze plugs on the back of the block. Engineers didn't think when they placed them there.
I found using adjustable oil wrench, duct tape handle worked the best on drive side, the lip y'all are using to pry is SO THIN, I just walked the handles and couple hits fluid started to leak so I was making progress, I did same thing on pass side but didn't need tape being the lip was MUCH larger and POP came out, only took about 1.5-2 hours on the ground with jack stands
you're video was the 3rd video i watched to do this job and it was very accurate and to the point .thank you very much for you're professional video ..Next job i do i'll look for you're video.....
Thanks for the video. Is the procedure the same for the passenger CV? mine is also a 2006 G Caravan. The passenger side is a much longer axle so just curious if comes out all in one piece or does it have to be separated?
Did this on several vehicles and never pulled the Struts because that would require a front end alignment. Why not just pull the lower ball joint, outer tie rod end and the ABS speed sensor then swing it out of the way. (To make it easier pull the Brake Caliper, Guid Plate and Rotor). Pull and replace the axle, do the reverse installation. Job done in for both sides in 3hrs, and no front end alignment needed! Best Wishes/Blessings Keith
Old vid I know. But if that isn't your van, you do know you cost your customer the cost of a unnecessary front end alignment right? All you had to do was drop the lower ball joint and swing the whole wheel and spindle assembly forward. That would have given you plenty of clearance to remove the axle.
With the method shown, it should not need a realignment, because he didn't take off the tie rod. At most, the strut bolts could affect camber, but so little it doesn't really matter (stock strut tower bolt holes are non-adjustable), not nearly as important as toe. Also I think it's inaccurate to say that a car like this needs a realignment even IF you took off the tie rod ends - if you don't change the number of turns on the tie rod end (which shouldn't happen if the lock nuts are on anyway), then you can't even change the toe if you wanted to - how is that possible if you didn't change the length of the tie rod and you put it back the way it was before? Alignments are not voodoo magic - the mechanic would need to undo the lock nut and turn the rod end in or out.
Some of these tools can be rented from local auto parts stores or even hardware stores or other places. When you return the rented tools to some auto parts stores they will refund the rental “cost” so your total expense will be nothing or maybe just the sales tax. Good luck.
The procedure would be the same on any 2001-2007 Dodge Grand Caravan/Caravan. Short answer; there are two methods. You must choose whether you are going to disconnect the McPherson strut assembly from the steering knuckle or remove the outer tie-rod and/or the ball joint so that the steering knuckle can be rotated enough for the CV axle end to be removed and the replacement to be installed. Which method did you choose?
Hi Jim. I've watched this video at least 3 times so I knew in advance what I was getting into. Note. I had done a previous cv axle replacement on this same vehicle without any issues. This time however, the part of the axle that is inside the transmission just will not pop out no matter what I do. Have you any sage wisdom to share or tools used. I would appreciate any helpful info that you can impart. Please keep the videos rolling. Cheers
At the 10:20 -10:50 I used a very long pry bar with a slight angle on the end of the bar to get behind the axle and the trans and pop it out. If that don't work place the pry bar on the back of the inner tripod and hit it with a hammer to drive the axe out of the trans. Keep me posted.
@@jimthecarguy Hi Jim. There isn't any room to get a pry bar behind the end of the axle. What are you referring to back of the inner tripod? I am leaning towards a home made slide hammer attached to a vise grip.
I was curious about the torque spec on the axle nut. I think you did say that it needs a certain torque but you put on the lock nut before putting the car down and torquing that axle nut to specs.
there is no room for alignment in bolts you should be fine chamber adjustment is usually done from the top side of the strut where it is mounted to the body but most manufacturers only allow one adjustment from the factory you would have to drill out welds to have the ability to adjust the chamber .
There are 2 washers used. First the inner thicker washer is put on before the nut. Then the thinner spring-washer is put on to stabilize the locking metal cover so it doesn't bounce around and make a 'jingling' noise. The cotter key/pin is then inserted into the shaft hole. For safety's sake I recommend installing new cotters because the old ones have metal fatigue and are usually rusty. I just replaced the passenger side CV axle on my 2001 Caravan and both cotter pins were in very bad condition. On mine I also had to remove the tie-rod castle-nut which had a worn out cotter.
how do you remove the Axel if it doesn't have the groove to put the pry bar in, just had the axel replaced in New York. long story but not the seal is leaking trans fluid and I need to replace it asap.... but can't figure out how to get a smooth axel out without damaging the axel, any help would be awesome tks.
Excellent informative video. If you make many of these, maybe you should get an audio compressor. Then the sound of the air wrench and your voice will be equally loud. Not complaining, just saying.
+jimthecarguy Robbie at category5 tech tv describes his system in episode 307 starting at about 57 min. into the show. The video is mostly about virtualizing a physical computer onto a linux system, but you might glean something from Robbie explaining his rig.
And my shop would charge 2 grand for this relatively simple operation. Thanks for the DIY video. Did anybody try what MrCougar214 wrote below about simply dropping the lower ball joint to get the axle out?
Jim, Thank you for providing this tutorial video. From watching your video (many times!) & a few others I was able to successfully replace the passenger side CV axle on my 2001 Caravan. On mine I also had to remove the 18mm castle-nut to take the tie-rod end out & then remove the 10mm bolt that holds the ABS sensor in place to get it & its wiring out of the way. I also had a Chilton manual to refer to but very seldom did I use it because the videos are much more instructional.
One of the best simple explanations I've seen. THANKS FOR A GREAT VIDEO
Good job man very informational. I'm getting ready to do this same job on my wife's van in the morning. Awesome refresher
Great video Jim. I used it to change both sides on my dad's 2010. Your method of changing them is a lot better then the other ones I found on youtube. Keep up the good work.
Changed my axle in about 30 minutes after watching this, I was going to bust the ball joints, this is much easier.
That's fairly easy. This part will help me pull back the transmission to replace leaky freeze plugs on the back of the block. Engineers didn't think when they placed them there.
Thanks Jim, easy to follow, and understand. I have a 2005 I am doing some work on, I could have questions, as I go along.
That was cool the way you explain. I'm no mechanic but thank you showing your video.
I found using adjustable oil wrench, duct tape handle worked the best on drive side, the lip y'all are using to pry is SO THIN, I just walked the handles and couple hits fluid started to leak so I was making progress, I did same thing on pass side but didn't need tape being the lip was MUCH larger and POP came out, only took about 1.5-2 hours on the ground with jack stands
Thank you for a well explained process!
wonderful video. direct and to the point start to finish.
Great instructional video. Thanks a lot.
you're video was the 3rd video i watched to do this job and it was very accurate and to the point .thank you very much for you're professional video ..Next job i do i'll look for you're video.....
***** Thank you for your kind words and your feedback .I hope the job goes Ok for you.If you need and advice let me know.Jim
jim your the man dude, thanks first time job and my confidence level is ouz the roof because of this tutorial
+jaquel muckelvene Thank you for your feedback.If you need any further advice just ask.
I love it! Working late to make us this video... Thanks
great instructional video. Thanks so much for sharing your skills and experience.
Thank you! Excellent information. Now I feel more confident to do this repair.
+Chc Pilot Great.If you need any advice let me know.
Is passenger side also the same process? I was told that passenger side axle shaft is longer and little difficult to replace.
Great job. just like we did it in School. fantastic.
Excellent video Jim, Thank you so much!!! It is just the best
Antulio Meneses Thank you for watching and your feed back
Thanks for the video. Is the procedure the same for the passenger CV? mine is also a 2006 G Caravan. The passenger side is a much longer axle so just curious if comes out all in one piece or does it have to be separated?
Did this on several vehicles and never pulled the Struts because that would require a front end alignment. Why not just pull the lower ball joint, outer tie rod end and the ABS speed sensor then swing it out of the way. (To make it easier pull the Brake Caliper, Guid Plate and Rotor). Pull and replace the axle, do the reverse installation. Job done in for both sides in 3hrs, and no front end alignment needed!
Best Wishes/Blessings Keith
Old vid I know. But if that isn't your van, you do know you cost your customer the cost of a unnecessary front end alignment right? All you had to do was drop the lower ball joint and swing the whole wheel and spindle assembly forward. That would have given you plenty of clearance to remove the axle.
With the method shown, it should not need a realignment, because he didn't take off the tie rod. At most, the strut bolts could affect camber, but so little it doesn't really matter (stock strut tower bolt holes are non-adjustable), not nearly as important as toe.
Also I think it's inaccurate to say that a car like this needs a realignment even IF you took off the tie rod ends - if you don't change the number of turns on the tie rod end (which shouldn't happen if the lock nuts are on anyway), then you can't even change the toe if you wanted to - how is that possible if you didn't change the length of the tie rod and you put it back the way it was before? Alignments are not voodoo magic - the mechanic would need to undo the lock nut and turn the rod end in or out.
Wow, If only I had the tools! Thanks!
You can do it!
Some of these tools can be rented from local auto parts stores or even hardware stores or other places. When you return the rented tools to some auto parts stores they will refund the rental “cost” so your total expense will be nothing or maybe just the sales tax. Good luck.
@@hb5914 thanks y’all! It’s still not fixed, just chilling… so sad! I’ll have to check into renting parts and gaining the confidence to do it myself!
Those dont need any type of camber alignment when you take off the two bolts off the strut?
Thank you to all you youtubers out there going out of their way to help make it possible for me to fixmy own vehicle.
I'm happy to help I hope my video was clear and not confusing
it was great.
This is my preferred method too - pulling off the strut bolts instead of pulling both the tie rod and lower ball joint. Much easier.
Thanks for watching. Don't forget to hit the bell for notifications when a new video is posted.
Great job on the tutorial. I've watched other vids and yours was the best. Thanks for saving me $!
+Jackotrades I'm happy to share my knowledge.Let me know how your job come out.
changing the right is the same procedure?
great video, I need to replace mine. do you have a video for the back shocks? I have a 05 town and country. same thing as dodge.
Great video. I appreciate the camera stability. Just one thing, kotter pins are cheap. Do not ever reuse them.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks your video helped me out a lot.
Some times not all the time how you get that snap ring off to pull the axe there
Would this be the same on a 2007 dodge caravan? There's a video showing different. There are taking ball joints off.
The procedure would be the same on any 2001-2007 Dodge Grand Caravan/Caravan. Short answer; there are two methods. You must choose whether you are going to disconnect the McPherson strut assembly from the steering knuckle or remove the outer tie-rod and/or the ball joint so that the steering knuckle can be rotated enough for the CV axle end to be removed and the replacement to be installed. Which method did you choose?
what is the price of the axles ? is a very good video easy to understand. thank u for your good job
The price of axle depends on what manufacturer you choose and from what business you choose to purchase them from.
Hi Jim. I've watched this video at least 3 times so I knew in advance what I was getting into. Note. I had done a previous cv axle replacement on this same vehicle without any issues. This time however, the part of the axle that is inside the transmission just will not pop out no matter what I do. Have you any sage wisdom to share or tools used. I would appreciate any helpful info that you can impart. Please keep the videos rolling.
Cheers
At the 10:20 -10:50 I used a very long pry bar with a slight angle on the end of the bar to get behind the axle and the trans and pop it out. If that don't work place the pry bar on the back of the inner tripod and hit it with a hammer to drive the axe out of the trans. Keep me posted.
@@jimthecarguy Hi Jim. There isn't any room to get a pry bar behind the end of the axle. What are you referring to back of the inner tripod? I am leaning towards a home made slide hammer attached to a vise grip.
I was curious about the torque spec on the axle nut. I think you did say that it needs a certain torque but you put on the lock nut before putting the car down and torquing that axle nut to specs.
According to my Haynes repair manual the torque specification for the axle nuts are 180 Foot-pounds.
Since your taking it loose from the struts, what about wheel alinement?
there is no room for alignment in bolts you should be fine chamber adjustment is usually done from the top side of the strut where it is mounted to the body but most manufacturers only allow one adjustment from the factory you would have to drill out welds to have the ability to adjust the chamber .
It will need an alignment this way taking spindle off strut requires an alignment
You forgot to mention that the wheel alignment had changed since the strut bolts were removed
How does one change the passenger side axel
It's the same just remember to get an alignment when your done.
Well done Jim
Thanks for watching and your feed back.Jim
Would it be necessary to get an alignment after doing this? Tackling the job on my '05 tomorrow.
+M Bro Yes it is always a good idea to check the alignment after any front end work.
wasn't the washer on the other side of the axle nut when you took it off?
There are 2 washers used. First the inner thicker washer is put on before the nut. Then the thinner spring-washer is put on to stabilize the locking metal cover so it doesn't bounce around and make a 'jingling' noise. The cotter key/pin is then inserted into the shaft hole. For safety's sake I recommend installing new cotters because the old ones have metal fatigue and are usually rusty. I just replaced the passenger side CV axle on my 2001 Caravan and both cotter pins were in very bad condition. On mine I also had to remove the tie-rod castle-nut which had a worn out cotter.
how do you remove the Axel if it doesn't have the groove to put the pry bar in, just had the axel replaced in New York. long story but not the seal is leaking trans fluid and I need to replace it asap.... but can't figure out how to get a smooth axel out without damaging the axel, any help would be awesome tks.
Do you want to call me at work tomorrow?
ok and can you tell me wat tools I'll need to replace it
Do u have a Video to how to replace the arm control in a dodge caravan 05
Some axle's do not have that groove making it difficult to remove without damaging.
Thank You for your time , You did good
Tony Reichart Thank you for your feedback
why wouldnt you replace the seal at same time?
Because it is not his van and he does not care. The customer will come back with leaking axle seal and will pay same labour cost to change a $5 seal.
Excellent informative video. If you make many of these, maybe you should get an audio compressor. Then the sound of the air wrench and your voice will be equally loud. Not complaining, just saying.
+disembodiedlove Thank you for your input.I am in the process of getting new equipment.
+jimthecarguy Robbie at category5 tech tv describes his system in episode 307 starting at about 57 min. into the show. The video is mostly about virtualizing a physical computer onto a linux system, but you might glean something from Robbie explaining his rig.
is it true that you have to change both sides when one side goes out?
Hi David Good question.No the only time you need to change both axles is if the boot is broken or possibly starting to crack.
Thanks mate well done big help !!!!
+Marc Breeze I'm happy to help
ok and do u have to have a spring compressor for the 2002 model
+Mikey Rozell No you don't need one
How would you change out the seal on that side as well if one were to go bad??
+twoeagle86 Its very easy once the axle is out.You remove the seal with a puller and install the new with a seal driver.
Yeah I was just wondering cause there's like a bolted on flange that our chiltion manual says cant be done by the home mechanic.
Right side?
is the 2006 Axel change job the same as a 2002 Axel Chang?
+Mikey Rozell Yes it should be
Awesome work....thanks
+Sam Daik Thank you for watching and your feedback
what size is the air hose?
Thanks. Very helpful.
Do I need alignment after? Thanks.
Yes when ever you do any front end work you should check the alignment.
what is a flexible plate
We’ll explained and demonstrate d thanks
awesome i can totally do this, thank you.
Thank you for watching and your input. Keep me posted
And my shop would charge 2 grand for this relatively simple operation. Thanks for the DIY video. Did anybody try what MrCougar214 wrote below about simply dropping the lower ball joint to get the axle out?
2 GS wtf or they smoking there ??? Shit if folks paid that much I need to work for you sir .
What the what's the torque on them bolts if you do it by hand ???
Can you just take the tie rod off there to turn it off there ??/am replacing my tie rods anyways
I couldn't see a thing woth youre shop light blazing in my eye.mostly listened until i couldn't.
The next time I make a FREE video I will be more careful !
Always torque it up not a air gun. Torque is 180 pounds
*Foot•pounds.
Well done. Just the facts, not a lot of blaa, blaa, blaa.
Thanks!
+Chris Seymour Hope I was helpful.
Yes, Excellent video! Thanks for posting
That axle nut should have been torqued to spec 180 ft lbs
He was using an adjustable torque air wrench
He talks forever before he gets started
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