I so appreciate this video. Like so much over the past year of getting my 8yr. old son started, the most important thing I can do is find out what I don't know, and begin to at least ask questions which are in the ballpark of what can get me close. Thank you so much for these!
Good video man! I already worked it out that the Rf when you turn unloads the the LR..but I hadn't even thought about the LF Loading the RR. This gives me stuff to think about lol.
The RF dips and takes weight off the lr and drops cross The LF loads the RR and RF Higher cross karts would benefit from running more LF caster to load the RR more on entry
Correct me if I'm wrong putting more caster in the LF helps with un loading the LR such as taking weight off of it on entry thrn the LF shoves down on the RR. I was always told play with the LF for entry and RF for exit.
@@matthewnumbers1167 tipping LF back will put the tire down quicker getting onto the RR faster. As I understand it. I agree with the castor for entry camber for exit, but both effect center as well as stagger.
I think to even grasp this subject your going to need to also understand kpi. And then how camber gain and rate of rise affect dynamic weight transfer through the kingpin. And then on the reciprocal you have wheel offset and scrub radius affecting the applied leverage through the spindles axle. But in the beginning its easy to think of camber as a static setting, and caster as dynamic feedback through the steering wheel into the drivers hands.
There are tons of intricate details that I’m not positive about and I’m sure a lot of people struggle to understand. Just trying to simplify best I can to explain. Thanks for the comment 👍
5 Lf and 8Rf I found is the limit for most karts, to me it mostly just frees up the front end and is good for a dry track. Anything less and then it will start twitching down the straights, especially feel it more on Yamahas and opens. Don't feel it as much on the other motors. 8 LF and 12 Rf is good for wet, or cold tracks like this time of the year, where you need that slightly more bite into the corners. I change mine depending on track conditions. So then being able to read the track very well comes into play. You need to come down to Hunterstown speedy and play in our Yamaha class for a weekend sometime next year man
@@toddbeal4373 I’ve run it that low on RPM but the extra gear helps out of the corner for passing and restart. It’s a balancing act of max speed vs burst out of the corner. Sometimes giving up a restart isn’t worth the top end.
Hunterstown..my new favorite track .. kicked my butt ..had the best handling outlaw kart ever for practice and heat ...then my kart got so tight I would just turn and keep heading strait for feature ...real learning experience ...I'll be ready next year ;) 😂
@@cupwalker24.7 yes that's because they add so much calcium on the track, looks like Xmas come early. Wh3n they don't even need to add that much to it. Not this time of year anyway. They go over board with it every week. Where reading the track comes in. What race was you here for?? This past week with the reaper nationals??
I ran my ‘09 ICON at an asphalt track on Sunday that I usually run on dirt and I made no changes to the setup instead of running yellow Vega’s instead of Burris 11’s/33’s and I noticed that the kart really was hard to steer in the corner and there was a ton of resistance in the steering wheel and I actually had to pull off after 8 laps in the feature because my left arm cramped up bad. But I was wondering if anyone else had an issue like that and what fixed it. I’m running 8/12 castor and +.25° LF camber and -2.5° RF camber.
I got all off season to figure it out lol. I’m thinking about upgrading to a Scythe and retire the Icon. It’s 13 years old and it owes me nothing. If your ever in PA in the poconos I’ll let you run my kart at snydersville.
Hard to turn is too much caster. With little kids we learn that quick. Haha. Some kids can barely see over the steering wheel so they can’t run as much caster.
I had an issue yesterday at Hunterstown where I was just plowing through 3 and 4 every lap and was wondering if changing caster would help. I had try sliding the axle over and messing with staggers as well and it never really changed.
@@ChristopherKirby4477 if that was me, I would have lowered the left front camber down, it always stops that. You know my nephew haha, it's Jordan Williams and his mother Jen, that's my sister
@Todd Beal I'll try that this weekend. Have someone else driving it this weekend so I'm using it as a test and tune. Yes, I do know him lol small world!
@@ChristopherKirby4477 yes try that. I never make big adjustments when I'm at that track. Not in the 20 years have I ever did. But I learned as a driver my self, I can't tune the kart for my self, it has to be how the kart wants to run fast. So if it's lose then it is, if it's tighter then it is. But I'm running on probably the oldest kart frame at that track hahaha. It's a 2000 gangster. Got it gangster e to me so I would get back into racing again since like 2011 or something. Track hasent changed at all. Lines are still the same, just the only difference is I'm not running the Yamaha class yet, not till next year. Wanted to get my bearing back under me. Been in the top 3 so far on this dinosaur kart haha 😄 If you need help come look for me man, I run the black and yellow #3 in the predator class, I have the pink helmet I'm with BMR racing. Bowmac racing, chuck bowers. But I do all my own setup to my stuff because no one seams to be able to handle driving none of my karts, they say it's way to loose for them. People have tried and end up in the wall. Fine for me though. But yes. If it is plowing there, lower the LF camber down into the track, then fine tune as needed.
I ran my 2020 LTO champ this past weekend and the kart was so tight I was out of breath trying to hold on been struggling with this kart at hunterstown twice now
Can you increase cross at all? If so add some and get off that RR. Also champs are a different animal, I’ve heard higher pressures used in the tires. Might check on that? Just some ideas.
I so appreciate this video. Like so much over the past year of getting my 8yr. old son started, the most important thing I can do is find out what I don't know, and begin to at least ask questions which are in the ballpark of what can get me close. Thank you so much for these!
Thank You for watching. Sometimes I’m not the most knowledgeable about a subject but at least get the jest of it. Lol.
Lol thanks for cleaning up the shop, makes it easier to watch you instead of looking all the fun things you have.
Lol great video brother.
God bless
👍 😁
Good video man! I already worked it out that the Rf when you turn unloads the the LR..but I hadn't even thought about the LF Loading the RR. This gives me stuff to think about lol.
That’s what I hope to accomplish. Kinda. Lol.
The RF dips and takes weight off the lr and drops cross
The LF loads the RR and RF
Higher cross karts would benefit from running more LF caster to load the RR more on entry
Good thoughts, thank You
Correct me if I'm wrong putting more caster in the LF helps with un loading the LR such as taking weight off of it on entry thrn the LF shoves down on the RR.
I was always told play with the LF for entry and RF for exit.
@@matthewnumbers1167 tipping LF back will put the tire down quicker getting onto the RR faster. As I understand it. I agree with the castor for entry camber for exit, but both effect center as well as stagger.
Helped, up hill/down hill. Makes more sense now
👍
I think to even grasp this subject your going to need to also understand kpi. And then how camber gain and rate of rise affect dynamic weight transfer through the kingpin. And then on the reciprocal you have wheel offset and scrub radius affecting the applied leverage through the spindles axle.
But in the beginning its easy to think of camber as a static setting, and caster as dynamic feedback through the steering wheel into the drivers hands.
There are tons of intricate details that I’m not positive about and I’m sure a lot of people struggle to understand. Just trying to simplify best I can to explain. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@kart6t3_ben I completely understand. Layers to this deal brother....
5 Lf and 8Rf I found is the limit for most karts, to me it mostly just frees up the front end and is good for a dry track.
Anything less and then it will start twitching down the straights, especially feel it more on Yamahas and opens. Don't feel it as much on the other motors.
8 LF and 12 Rf is good for wet, or cold tracks like this time of the year, where you need that slightly more bite into the corners.
I change mine depending on track conditions. So then being able to read the track very well comes into play.
You need to come down to Hunterstown speedy and play in our Yamaha class for a weekend sometime next year man
Great information. I always plan on It and never seems to be in the cards. Eckard has been asking me for years. Lol.
@@toddbeal4373 I’ve run it that low on RPM but the extra gear helps out of the corner for passing and restart. It’s a balancing act of max speed vs burst out of the corner. Sometimes giving up a restart isn’t worth the top end.
Hunterstown..my new favorite track .. kicked my butt ..had the best handling outlaw kart ever for practice and heat ...then my kart got so tight I would just turn and keep heading strait for feature ...real learning experience ...I'll be ready next year ;) 😂
@@cupwalker24.7 yes that's because they add so much calcium on the track, looks like Xmas come early. Wh3n they don't even need to add that much to it. Not this time of year anyway.
They go over board with it every week. Where reading the track comes in.
What race was you here for?? This past week with the reaper nationals??
Great vid !
Thank You
I ran my ‘09 ICON at an asphalt track on Sunday that I usually run on dirt and I made no changes to the setup instead of running yellow Vega’s instead of Burris 11’s/33’s and I noticed that the kart really was hard to steer in the corner and there was a ton of resistance in the steering wheel and I actually had to pull off after 8 laps in the feature because my left arm cramped up bad. But I was wondering if anyone else had an issue like that and what fixed it. I’m running 8/12 castor and +.25° LF camber and -2.5° RF camber.
Good question. Maybe somebody will have a good answer. Indoor racing is a whole different animal.
I got all off season to figure it out lol. I’m thinking about upgrading to a Scythe and retire the Icon. It’s 13 years old and it owes me nothing. If your ever in PA in the poconos I’ll let you run my kart at snydersville.
Hard to turn is too much caster. With little kids we learn that quick. Haha. Some kids can barely see over the steering wheel so they can’t run as much caster.
I had an issue yesterday at Hunterstown where I was just plowing through 3 and 4 every lap and was wondering if changing caster would help. I had try sliding the axle over and messing with staggers as well and it never really changed.
I hate when you only have a issue in one corner. If your really good in the other you don’t wanna hurt that.
It's frustrating for sure. Theres some positivss to take away, I still ended up finishing 2nd only half a tenth slower than the winner.
@@ChristopherKirby4477 if that was me, I would have lowered the left front camber down, it always stops that.
You know my nephew haha, it's Jordan Williams and his mother Jen, that's my sister
@Todd Beal I'll try that this weekend. Have someone else driving it this weekend so I'm using it as a test and tune. Yes, I do know him lol small world!
@@ChristopherKirby4477 yes try that. I never make big adjustments when I'm at that track.
Not in the 20 years have I ever did. But I learned as a driver my self, I can't tune the kart for my self, it has to be how the kart wants to run fast. So if it's lose then it is, if it's tighter then it is.
But I'm running on probably the oldest kart frame at that track hahaha.
It's a 2000 gangster. Got it gangster e to me so I would get back into racing again since like 2011 or something.
Track hasent changed at all. Lines are still the same, just the only difference is I'm not running the Yamaha class yet, not till next year. Wanted to get my bearing back under me.
Been in the top 3 so far on this dinosaur kart haha 😄
If you need help come look for me man, I run the black and yellow #3 in the predator class, I have the pink helmet
I'm with BMR racing.
Bowmac racing, chuck bowers.
But I do all my own setup to my stuff because no one seams to be able to handle driving none of my karts, they say it's way to loose for them.
People have tried and end up in the wall. Fine for me though.
But yes.
If it is plowing there, lower the LF camber down into the track, then fine tune as needed.
Ben come drive my kart. It’s not too far. Just Michigan!
Just a hope skip and jump. Lol.
@@kart6t3_ben not sure how to send a video, but I would like to and see if you could give me a baseline on where to start!
Thanks did help
Awesome
I ran my 2020 LTO champ this past weekend and the kart was so tight I was out of breath trying to hold on been struggling with this kart at hunterstown twice now
Can you increase cross at all? If so add some and get off that RR. Also champs are a different animal, I’ve heard higher pressures used in the tires. Might check on that? Just some ideas.
@@kart6t3_ben thank you I put the kart on the scales and add some cross and will give it a try this weekend
Just ta let ya know😂
😁😁😁😁